TLDW #10 - Mountain Kotanto Yaki-Ire, traditional swordsmith style
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- Опубліковано 11 сер 2016
- **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking. Watch the overview edit here: • SOTW #14 - Tools for S... Traditional clay/charcoal/water yaki-ire, differential hardening a classical tanto style kotanto blade forged from a reclaimed harrow tooth. Watch the forging here: • TimeWarp #4 - Forging ...
The wedged wooden staple vise is called sen dai, named for the sen scraper it is often used for. As this will be a tsuchime (hammer finished) blade, only the bevel area is shaped and drawfiled before yaki ire.
The spine and body of the blade are coated with a thin layer of the clay mixture to insulate and slow down the cooling while the edge and tip are coated in a very thin slip layer which actually cools faster than bare steel and protects from oxidation.
The clay is a mixture of perhaps thirds of natural clay, crushed charcoal, and polishing stone powder. Each smith has their own recipe but the basics are the same...natural clay: to make it stick, polishing stone powder: to keep it from shrinking and cracking when it dries, and charcoal powder: to keep it from cracking when it is heated...knowing these properties allows a smith to make adjustments as needed.
Heated differentially in the charcoal forge with air provided by fuigo box bellows, the edge faces up for the initial heating and is flipped down when the temperature begins to approach but has not reached critical. Carefully observing the temperature and constantly moving to avoid over-heating and hot spots, once the edge-third reaches an even critical temperature the blade is quenched quickly in warm rainwater until cool. The tang is not heated or hardened and can be drilled later for the mekugi-ana.
A coarse synthetic Japanese stone is used to reduce the edge and then coarse and finer diamond stones were used to establish and polish the bevels.
Footage of making the guard was sparse due to battery issues so it is tacked it on the end rather than as a separate video. A quarter of a silver-plated copper washer from a bus bar was forged down and then drifted with the nakago-ana punch, filed to fit the tang, shaped and peened to finish.
More about the process of making this knife here: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/08/pr...
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more on yaki-ire...
Process of Clay Tempering a Tanto Blade
islandblacksmith.ca/process/ya...
Once the steel is shaped as much as possible in its softer state, it is coated with a thin layer of clay along the edge and a thicker layer on the body and spine. During the hardening process, the split second difference in cooling time caused by the clay layer creates two different hardness areas in the same piece of steel. The edge cools faster and forms a very hard steel structure called martensite while the body cools slower and forms a very tough steel structure made of ferrite and pearlite. The boundary between these two areas is called hamon and is commonly seen as a frosted wavy line down the length of a polished sword blade.
When the clay is fully dry, a charcoal fire is used to heat the steel slowly and evenly, taking care not to overheat any part of it and working in the dark for accurate colour viewing. First the spine is heated to bring the whole blade to just below temperature, and then it is flipped over to focus heat on the edge. When the entire edge is at the correct temperature, it is plunged into a hot water bath, edge down, and held until cool (yaki-ire). The hardness is checked with a file and the process repeated if necessary. After hardening, the clay is removed and the steel is heated slightly again to remove some of the internal stresses (yaki-modoshi). Once this process is finished, and if the steel survives, the blade is ready for Togi, hand polishing.
islandblacksmith.ca/process/
more:
watch the forging here: ua-cam.com/video/0tFPLH05Aqc/v-deo.html
making the handle here: ua-cam.com/video/rPPFoQ1I_oQ/v-deo.html
Cool Dave, found you in good company. All the famous smiths from Japan. Always a pleasure to watch you work.
yet again i am blown away by your amazing skills
Thank you for your valuable feed back.
You are really skilled, thanks for posting
That Turkey sound like it having an emotional crisis not surprising really? When the guy in the barn is sharpening knife's !!! Lol..wonderful skill fantastic!
Insane hand work... love it... no noise from machines at all... the artisan and his work in a calm conjuction... keep the good work!
yes, hard work but nice experience for the mind and body...and soul!
just amen to that! is nice to see some one still wanna build things at the old school way... again... great work and one of your blades are now in my "Need Now" list.
b(^___^)d
incredible work !
love the atmosphere in the video
it is a nice place to be! trees, sky, rusty stuff ^__^
awesome..... thanks for sharing....
Una obra de arte.
just finished my box bellow!,forging for the fist time tonight!
excellent!
Thank you! Such a careful and beautiful process. I guess you must get used to the rooster- I'd be dropping the tongs on my toes each time he went off.
...the secret is a good pair of earplugs ^___^
How much service do you get from a file?
I use clay from the termite mound ,charcoal and ash powder for the hardening, it sticks well during the heat treat. And I use water for quenching.Still the hamon disappears after polishing. I need your wisdom here. Thank you.
Some steels simply dont take hamons sadly. Try a different material.
I have three white turkeys and it’s fun getting them to talk
Excellent work! Can you tell me what do you use while making the clay for the knife? Why you put on the back of the knife first then cutting edge and how do you understand that knife is ready for hardening in the water?
there is some information in the description, and more here: islandblacksmith.ca/process/yaki-ire-clay-tempering/
I watched your other video too and have learned a lot but am I to understand that you covered the knife in clay and clay hardened it twice??
first hardened, then tempered...more info than you ever wanted to know: islandblacksmith.ca/process/yaki-ire-clay-tempering/ (but not enough to do it right, nothing beats experience!)
Awesome, thanks.
to answer your original question (which i can't find now) the charcoal does not really add carbon in this case, but it potentially does help protect against carbon loss during heat treating...mainly it is to increase surface area and affect cooling rate after it has burned out of the clay...
@@islandblacksmith Thank you. I posted the question before you removed the clay from the edge, so I removed the question, because it seemed to be irrelevant at that point. Thank you for the video, and especially the clay recipe, I had no idea that there was anything added to it, (I would probably have screwed it up on my first try)
i often brush a very thin slip layer along the edge after removing the thicker clay, the thin layer has a very high charcoal content...
@@islandblacksmith Thanks for that information.
3:45 - 10:05 serious asmr that there isn't enough of.
Hello master, AMAZING. WHAT is the substance you rubbed or coated on the blade?
there is some information in the description, and more here: islandblacksmith.ca/process/yaki-ire-clay-tempering/
Can I use any kind of wood for saya making? I'm making one of purple heart and it is cracking when I try to chisel it, also is the wood grain very relevant? I've watched a lot of your videos and you carve sayas perfectly.
i suppose you can but some are far more suited (and more workable) than others...even new vs seasoned for years makes a big difference...grain is always very important for carving, and sharp tools (sharpened often) are necessary for a good outcome...lots of info on the website, start with the "process" page...keep at it!
@@islandblacksmith gonna have a look, thanks a lot.
islandblacksmith.ca/process/ ...if you scroll to the bottom of that page you will find links to whole pages on saya (scabbard), tsuka (handle), and shirasaya (storage scabbard), between the three there should be plenty to digest for a start...you can also look at specific projects for some other photos and info: islandblacksmith.ca/tag/process/
@@islandblacksmith thanks again, I had a look yesterday, it has lots of information. I'm gonna give it a better look when I start my next project in a couple days.
I love that yaki-ire stand! I might want to try a knife like this in the future. To get that bevel straight and crisp I would imagine that you need to pay extremely close attention to how flat and even you forge, as well as keep the scale off of the surface. Do you think that a long etch in ferric would bring out the hamon through the slightly pitted surface?
yes, finishing with only files is a great way to improve your forging! water forging during hizukuri keeps things fairly smooth and a long soak in hot water and vinegar will take off remaining scale and reveal some of the internal character nicely...
If I were to get a metal container to vinegar-soak the blade in, would it be too much to heat up the container over the forge while it cools down?
it will work cold (maybe overnight), but it goes much faster hot...boiling means you lose a lot of liquid so simmering is maybe the best balance...similar to patinating with niiro/niage (rokusho)...
Thanks!
Oh- turkey. Even more startling .
are those mc chickens i hear in the background?
turkeys! ^___^
One more. I've not seen you mark your work, may I ask why?
keep watching...i hot stamp the omote side of the tang of every tanto and kotanto: 16:16 pre-2014 crossed heart logo, post-2014 katabami-ken kamon
I respect your art. May I ask. two questions? Are you self taught? And are the files you use common files?
a lot of both...i can't take credit for anything self-taught as it was research on historical and traditional japanese swordsmith techniques...yes, common files are usually quite good for knives...doesn't hurt to do some testing first though.
Dave sensei, why do you have sudden stops during the honing of the edge? You start, stop for a second, then continue. Why is this?
the bevel is a very narrow area so i am just checking for full contact every few strokes to keep things on track and flat...
+Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith Oh I see, thank you for clarifying.
Darn! You're making awfully lot of blades just to kill that one obnoxious turkey hehe haha. I am kidding. What is the substance is the paste put on the blade. Is it easy to make?
haha! the clay is a mixture of natural clay, crushed charcoal, and polishing stone powder...lots of info and a couple links in the description...
I've seen you use rice and water as glue, is that enough? I mean I know it was used as mortar or at least added to it, but rice alone, would that work?
i don't recommend using it alone, historically it was always used as part of a complete system...eg, along with a ferrule, wrapping, rawhide, lacquer...stronger than you might think when prepared/used properly though: islandblacksmith.ca/2014/03/sokui-rice-paste-glue-strength-testing/
Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith Thanks!
at what temper color do you quench again ?
it depends on the steel, the blade geometry, and what the final use will be...and not necessarily even a colour for some steel, it can be a certain water evaporation behaviour temperature...if you want a starting point go for 350-400F, or very light to light straw yellow or so...
@@islandblacksmith thanks a lot !
olá você pode me falar com qual material está pasta e feita e como é feita obrigado!
a mixture of natural clay, crushed charcoal, and polishing
stone powder...more info and links in the description.
obrigado ! mais qual a porção de cada um das 3 elelentos igual diferente . você pode falar ! desde já obrigado ate mais !!!
"The clay is a mixture of perhaps thirds of natural clay, crushed charcoal, and polishing stone powder. Each smith has their own recipe but the basics are the same...natural clay: to make it stick, polishing stone powder: to keep it from shrinking and cracking when it dries, and charcoal powder: to keep it from cracking when it is heated...knowing these properties allows a smith to make adjustments as needed."
obrigado ate mais !!!
nice man! does it have decent carbon content?
yep, in fact this one turned out to be some really old shear steel...haven't found any harrow tooth like that before this one...
@@islandblacksmith Lucky find. A lot of shear steel was very close in appearance to traditional Japanese sword steel- carburising, stacking, welding and repeating are much the same in either hemispere.
@@althesmith yes, a very rare find, would like to have a box of them to work with!
your commitment and discipline to detail is great motivation to me, thank you for the detailed videos. just a question though, my hamon disappears after start polishing with water emery paper, is that common? or I am, I doing something wrong?{I don't have access to stones }
i wish i had termite clay nearby! there are a lot of variables, including the steel (old files are great) but yes, the emery paper will hide the hamon...without using japanese waterstones, the simplest test for the hamon is to polish it down until it is at least 600 or where you want the final surface to be, then simmer in water and vinegar to watch the line begin to come out, be careful of fingerprints or oil, clean it off every few minutes and polish a bit with the fine paper and repeat until you get a nice view of the transition line...if that doesn't reveal anything then it may be the steel or you are not hardening properly...keep at it!
the actual master is the turkey
...only if he can stay out of the soup pot!
Do you forge katanas?
not yet, perhaps one day...
what is this noise in the backround sounds like chicken or a goat
turkey! ^___^
...and the occasional goat and chicken too...
I swear watching Japanese draw filing gives me anxiety, they do deliberately essentially everything my teacher told me to avoid doing as often as possible. especially working in sections that drives me nuts
just so other folks know, it is hard to tell with the frame rate but it is cross filing from 0:48, push filing from 2:09, and draw filing from 2:22...and for your peace: this is not for the sake of finishing but only to set bevels before hardening...the surface steel will be entirely removed by waterstones after tempering so this is a fairly rough and rugged approach to draw filing ^____^
...and in this case the "sections" are the three areas of differing geometry on the blade, the hamachi notch is easy to over file and round off if one is not careful, and the first bit of the edge there has a slight recurve/fumbari...the tip is also slightly divided from the edge and is not a smooth continuing line so filing it separately preserves that subtle distinction...
Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith I never said there was anything wrong with it and I'm certain you were very careful in defining those distinctions but again as a blacksmith focusing in the 8th-10th and 14th-15th centuries in Europe the way the Japanese file work is done basically reverses everything ive been told not to do
lots of cultural "flips" between eastern (usually pull) and western (usually push) aren't there? sawing cuts, planing, lathe tools, sword cuts, eating utensils, slicing sushi, etc, etc...it would be a useful resource to have a comprehensive draw filing video from your historical perspective, let me know if you get to making one, keep up the journey towards excellence!
попробывал бы он шх15 напильником он бы офигел
a file is good