My Chicken Coop: Design and Build (Part 1/2)
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- My chicken coop design and how I built it. A summary of the features is shown in Part 2: • My Chicken Coop: Featu...
If you learned something from this video, a "thumbs up" is appreciated.
Making the windows:
• How to Make a Window: ...
Making perches:
• Making Simple Brackets... - Навчання та стиль
Brian: very professional work. My research also shows that chickens are unlike other birds when roosting. They want to be flat footed in order to rest their breast bone on a perch...distributing their weight. Thus a standard 2x4 which is 3.5 inches wide is ideal as you used. A closet poll which many builders use is actually unhealthy for chickens. Thank you Allan
Thank you. The chickens seem to like the coop and the perch. During extremely cold weather, I think the wide perch helps them keep their feet warm too.
Im in the middle of building a coop of similar design. Im going to be using many of your feature ideas. Thanks much for taking the time to make the video!
Thanks.
So am i thanks
I apologize. If I had been reading the comments, all would be explained. Thanks again for sharing your hard work and skill.
Lisa P Robertson Thanks. Hope it was useful.
I love this video because it's not overstuffed with info. I'm a visual learner too.
Thanks! Make sure you watch Part 2. I think you’ll find that more informative.
I was about to build the run and coup separate but after seeing this I'm sold. Great vid and shows some very simple methods. Thank you for making it
Thank you. I'm glad you found it useful.
Beautiful coop and great craftsmanship with awesome design. I like the front opening nest box with metal roof and the buried mesh to thwart predators. People rarely mention the need to guard against digging predators and I always felt the tractor coops were useless.....no protection at all from what I see.
Anton Bouchette Thank you. It was a fun project and we enjoy our fresh eggs!
Great looking coop. I got some good ideas for mine. Thanks!
Thank you. Glad the video is helpful.
Thanks for sharing,Greetings from Manorhamilton,Co Leitrim,Ireland,Thanks again Frankie
Thank you. Greetings likewise from across the pond.
That is a beautiful design! And the color you chose is so charming!
Thank you! The color choice was simply to match our house. :)
Brian Weekley Even better! I'm trying to dream up a design that is a mini version of my lofted barn style workshop/storage shed.
No, that's even better! I built a small timber frame barn and originally considered the same idea--to make a mini version of it for the coop. ua-cam.com/video/LwAdhREU9Nk/v-deo.html Good luck with your project!
Thank you so much! I'll watch that one right now.
That's a really nice looking project very well done..!
Thank you!
Fantastic job of sandwiching the hardware cloth.
We had learned that that was a mistake OF NOT sandwiching. Neighbors dog got inside the pen. And all they did was push on the hardware cloth to get through. I made that mention on my review of the particular chicken pen house that we purchased from Tractor Supply.
Since then we have reinforced so that it's not a problem.
Thanks for the comment. So true that you don’t get much of a quality chicken coop for the money at a place like Tractor Supply. I call mine “Fort Knox”-it’s larger and sturdier compared to many coops. Good luck with your chickens-they are fun to have and not much work (and the eggs are delicious)!
This THE BEST COOP I HAVE SEEN IN A WHILE
Thank you very much!
Wow like a new house 😍😍😍😍
Lookin good. I like how you secured the hardware cloth. Looks very clean that way.
Thank you. I have the hardware cloth sandwiched between the studs and with furring strips along all other edges. This makes it very secure and there are no sharp edges for the chickens to get cut on.
@@brianweekley5700 I'm seriously considering adding 2x3's to the outside of my run to mirror the look of yours. It just looks so much nicer framed in like that. I say 2x3's because that's what I used to build mine.
That’s a great design thank you for sharing
Thank you.
Fantastic, good idea
Very good job. I see what ideas u borrowed. I like the big door on the hen house & the ladder to roost assist the smaller breeds to roost higher
Thank you. You get a much better view of the layout in my second video: ua-cam.com/video/t_OjkKPetx0/v-deo.html
Nice work and good video, thanks.
Thanks, much appreciated.
Well done. Very good job!
Thanks, and I'll check out your channel. Looks like you have some interesting videos.
Brian Weekley Thanks! I'm actually in the process of building a coop. Yours is very nice. Mine is a bit more "rustic", lol. Made from rough cut lumber from my sawmill.
ابداع يستحق الاشادة
شكرا لكم
Fantastic job!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you.
That’s a neat design
Thanks!
Beautiyfull chicken home good job Mr weekly 👏👏👏👏 hello ı em from Turkey 🇹🇷 🐓 👉👍👈
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing knowledge
Nice coop! good job, I like it!
Thanks so much. I appreciate the comment.
nice job i like it
Thank you.
Thank you for the info
Complimenti ! Lavoro eseguito a regola d'arte . Bellissimo pollaio .
Pollice in su !
Gracias!
thanks for your video from france 👌
Thank you.
So awesome!!! Great job! I'm hoping to build one myself with recycled material
Thanks. I’ve really enjoyed this coop and the chickens. Good luck with your coop!
I'm Brazilian, I really liked your videos.
Thank you. That is nice of you to say.
I made a little chicken coop in my backyard and showed it on my channel. I was inspired by you.
i like brazil
Fantastic
Thank you.
Great job!
Thank you very much!
Nice! Just subscribed 👍🏼
Thank you!
Nice job!
Thank you.
This is exactly what I am looking for. Can I ask what the dimensions of the coop itself are? Thanks.
Thank you. The coop is 4x6 feet and the run is 6x8 feet making the entire footprint 6x12.
Nice coop!
Thank you!
Awesome job
Thank you!
I liked your coop 🤪
Thanks!
Terrific Coop build Brian & without a doubt one of the very best that I have seen on YT! Nice work. How has it been holding up thus far & would you change anything if you had to do it over again? Thanks
Thanks. Please check out part 2-(I added this about a year after part 1 and it shows more of the finished coop and operation). I couldn’t be happier with how it came out. The only slight changes I would make is to make the nest box slightly deeper and the run a little longer (it can never be too small).
I know the feeling!
LOL
very professional looking coop. how many birds did you have in mind when building it
Thanks. From what I've read, the hen house should have 2-3 ft^2 per chicken and the run should provide 8-10 ft^2 per chicken. Based on those numbers, my coop should be adequate for 9 chickens and seems to be working very well for the number we have (7).
How well did the predator prevention measures you took work out? Rodents are my number one concern in getting chickens.
Noel Gomez Thanks for the question. After 2 years, I have not had a noticeable problems. I call it Fort Knox. A mouse can still find its way into the run-probably the crack around the door. However, nothing larger that I’ve ever seen. I’ve never seen signs of anything in the hen house. The buried screen is intended to prevent larger predators such as fox, raccoon, fisher cat, ground squirrel, etc. from burrowing under. Every night, I also store my hanging feeder in a small garbage can so no food is left out in the run.
so good
Thank you.
Good presentation..,🙏☺️👌From Calicut.. Kerala...India.
Thank you!
😊👍💐
This a great design! Have you been able to maybe make a material list or plans to show how you made it?
Thanks for your interest in my design, but I haven't made it available to share. There are plans for very similar coops available online. You may find these two links helpful:
M101: www.homegardendesignplan.com/2011/06/chicken-coop-m101.html
"Wichita Coop": www.backyardchickens.com/articles/wichita-cabin-coop.47747/
Muy bonito trabajo....
Gracias
hi Brian I have one more question the the pressure treated wood you used for sill is it bolted to the blocks in bottom or just sitting on top?
It just sits on top of the concrete blocks. The coop end is extremely heavy--it's not going anywhere! Once assembled, there's no way I would be able to move it myself. In a hurricane, the metal roofing would probably get ripped off before you had to worry about anything lifting off the foundation.
Lovely.
Thank you.
I do have a question about the impact you use @4:10. By using a impact instead of a regular drill weaken the holding power of the screw?
Pale Horse thanks for the question. Those are GRK structural screws and often installed with an impact driver. Even their own video demonstrates use of an impact driver. They are extremely strong and hold very well.
Great job. What program did you use for the 3d model. Thanks.
Thank you. Sketchup is the program I use.
I'm kinda confused, can ya load up your tools and lumber and come show me? 😎😁
Me too, I'll put on some coffee.
It's a professional work, what application did you use to design the Chicken Coop?
Bahaa Naji Sketchup
They are so sweet
Thanks.
What would guess the overall cost was? Looking to build a very similar coop
Sorry, I didn't keep track of costs and a lot was left over from other projects. Some of the more expensive items were the siding (3 sheets at $30 ea), metal roof panels (7 panels at $15 ea), rolls of hardware cloth, etc. The hardware really adds up very quickly (screws, fasteners, hinges, latches, etc.). My coop is larger and definitely more expensive than pre-built versions I saw for sale locally in stores. Raising chickens is not necessarily cost effective, but they are fun to have!
Mr. Brian: I like your design very much, would you be interested in sharing a materials list?
Lisa P Robertson Thanks. As I think you found in some of my other comments, I have not made my plans or material list available. However, I have provided some links to similar designs that you may find useful.
Great design!! Any chance you have the measurements to share? This would be the perfect size for my yard and I would like to do the same idea!
Thank you. The coop is 4x6 feet and the overall size including the run is 6x12 feet. Sorry, my plans are not available. However, here are some plans for very similar designs that you might find useful:
M101: www.homegardendesignplan.com/2011/06/chicken-coop-m101.html
"Wichita Coop": www.backyardchickens.com/articles/wichita-cabin-coop.47747/
Nice build! I really like your design. I have a question I hope you can answer for me. How did you attach your roof rafters to the tops of the wall? Thank you
Jacob Strong Thanks for the question. I just toe-nailed with a framing gun. However, you could also use hurricane fasteners or TimberLOK structural screws to connect the rafters to the plate. If you search for both, you can find photos and video examples.
@@brianweekley5700 thank you that is what I figured you did but just wanted to make sure.
Great coop. It would be cool if you do walk around before the build to show all the features. Like open the cleaning doors and nesting box. Are you a carpenter? Seems like the workmanship was really on point.
Thank you. Not a carpenter, but woodworking is a hobby. Did you check out Part 2? It provides a walk around of the coop and shows all the features (link in description).
Brian Weekley part two... duh should have checked that out. Still starting with it is always a good idea presentation wise. But that’s just my opinion. Anyhow great build and I will check part two out
@@wakawaka1976 Understood, but the first video was initially intended as just a build video. I waited a year before I published part 2 on the final features. I needed time to finish things like the water tower, wind break, perches, etc. I was new to chickens at the time and had bugs to work out before showing the final, completed coop.
والله شي حلو انا بتمنا يكون عندي عدة واعمل هيك شغلات
Very nice! When you can you start mine?? LOL
Soon! LOL
I’d like to make a coop like this but with storage underneath Having it open to the chicken run , I need to put food and bedding under it! What holds it to the ground? We had 80 mile an hour winds last year and I’m just wondering what keeps it down?
My coop just sits on concrete blocks. However, it is extremely heavy (I can’t physically move it once it was completed). Mine is not going anywhere except for maybe a tornado! If you’re concerned, I’d suggest staking it down (maybe rebar into the ground).
Very nice coop, just curious why you used biscuits for some parts instead of pocket screws for everything?
Thank you. The biscuits are not structural. I use them mainly to hold the pieces in line as I clamp them till the glue dries. Once the siding is nailed on, the whole wall becomes a very solid panel.
Amazing
Are the Sketchup plans available for download? If not could I get a copy of the plans, I'd really like to build this setup. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for your interest in my design, but I haven't made it available to share. There are plans for very similar coops available online. You may find these two links helpful:
M101: www.homegardendesignplan.com/2011/06/chicken-coop-m101.html
"Wichita Coop": www.backyardchickens.com/articles/wichita-cabin-coop.47747
Great job sir just one quick question what is the hight of the coop?
Thanks for the question. The height to the top sill (what the rafters are attached to) is 78 inches in the front and 66 inches in the back.
Good very nice
Thank you.
Great looking coop. Are you in an area with snow load. If so, are there any issues with the 2x4 rafters and centres?
Certainly, you should consider a design that meets the requirements and snow load for your area. My area has a reported snow load of 30 PSF, but I did not do snow load calculations when I built this. I guess I’m living on the edge! However, I just ran some rough numbers to see how it fairs… The horizontal, unsupported distance between the posts is about 65”x24”/144”/SF=10.8 SFx30=325 lbs. The dead load is minimal. Of course, it matters what grade wood and variables you use, but when I put the info into some span tables, the sheer passes, the fiber stress barely passes, and the deflection allowance fails. The bottom line is that I’m not really worried about it. If I ever got a large snow storm, I can easily clean off the metal roof. If in doubt, you could always increase the rafters to 2x6 or greater.
Thanks Brian. All framed except for the nesting box. Can I ask the dimensions of your nesting box. Each individual box and the overall dimensions.
The overall size of the nest box is 16" deep x 43" wide (divided into three with removable panels), but I'd make it a little wider if I did it again (48").
Thanks Brian.
Very nice job. Does the metal roof scare the crap out of the chickens when it rains?
LOL! Not that I know of, but I've never slept in the coop with them at night to find out! During the day, they'll hang out under the coop if there's blowing rain or snow (I've added removable panels around the bottom of the hen house to give them a windbreak for winter).
How to read diagrams
what software did you use to sketch it up
Sketchup
How do you attach the seal plate to the block to keep the house from blowing away in the wind?
Thanks for the question. No, the sill is not attached to the block. The coop is extremely heavy (I can't lift it) and I've never had a problem with wind. There really isn't a lot of windage due to all of the screen (wind can blow through most of it). It's gone through nor-easters fine, but I can't speak to hurricane force winds... If you're concerned, I don't see any reason you couldn't put some fasteners through the sill into the block.
Awesome work what did you used to design the coop. Sketch up
Yes, Sketchup.
Hi... Luv your coop/design. Can you tell me what color paint you used & what brand ( Benjamin Moore ?)
Thank you:)
Thank you. I wish I could tell you what the color was. It was leftover house stain and I don’t have any left.
@@brianweekley5700 thank you... I will see if I can match it...
Beautiful job! How has it held up to the weather? Any issues with the bisquit joints failing?
Thank you. Biscuits aren't structural--they are used more for alignment when gluing the frame and doors together. They make it more easy to hold things in place when clamping the pieces together. The siding nailed to the frame is what provides the real support. This coop is heavy and strong as a rock!
BTW, looks like you are into flint knapping. That's something I always wanted to try.
Hello Mr. Weekly, yes, I am a flint knapper. Check out the Jackcrafty UA-cam channel. There are plenty of knapping videos out there but I've found Jackcrafty's method and instruction to be the most helpful. What state do you hail from?
Thanks, I check his channel out--he's got a ton of videos! I live in CT. I'll have to do some research to find where I might find some flint. However, I see other materials are sometimes be used to make arrowheads too.
Well done. What program did you use to create the 3D images?
Thank you. I drew the plans using the free, 3D CAD program “Sketchup”.
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks! :)
How has the coop held up over the years? Would you make any changes to it?
Thanks for the question. The coop has held up great and works perfectly. The only changes I would make is to build the egg box a little bit deeper. I probably could have made the coop slightly higher (but the chickens still get under the coop just fine). Finally, the bigger the run, the better. This works fine with my 6 chickens, but I'm sure they would welcome another 4 feet of run to play in since my water tower takes up some space.
This is really great. Any chance you'd be willing to share the sketchup file? Looking to build something like this over the weekend.
Thanks for your interest in my design, but I haven't made it available to share. There are plans for very similar coops available online. You may find these two links helpful:
M101: www.homegardendesignplan.com/2011/06/chicken-coop-m101.html
"Wichita Coop": www.backyardchickens.com/articles/wichita-cabin-coop.47747/
Super. À recommander
Thank you.
is there a way i can get a file or pdf of a step by steps plan and build or would you know of somewhere, i really like the design and way this coop ,looks thanks
Thanks for your interest in my design, but I haven't made it available to share. There are plans for very similar coops available online. You may find these two links helpful:
M101: www.homegardendesignplan.com/2011/06/chicken-coop-m101.html
"Wichita Coop": www.backyardchickens.com/articles/wichita-cabin-coop.47747/
Did you seal the space between the purlins and the roof so that critters can't get into the coop? If so, what did you use?
Thanks for the question. I used 1x3 furring strips cut to fill the space between the roofing and plate between the rafters.
@@brianweekley5700 Thank you. I am using your video as a guide for my coop. I have the roof and siding to do. Also need to figure out windows, I don't have all of your tools to build them
Spencer Okey You don’t need to make the windows as fancy. I used it as an excuse to practice making windows that I needed for my barn. You may be able to find some small windows for sheds.
anyway I can order the plans for this?
Thanks for your interest in my design, but I haven't made it available to share. There are plans for very similar coops available online. You may find these two links helpful:
M101: www.homegardendesignplan.com/2011/06/chicken-coop-m101.html
"Wichita Coop": www.backyardchickens.com/articles/wichita-cabin-coop.47747/
Can you put the blueprints in description
Прикольное видео
The instructions are online that’s where he found it as said at the beginning of the video
Very nice😃🌈🤙
Only one thing. Biscuits and Glue don't offer much in the way of protection from shearing... You didn't use nails or screws?
Thanks for the comment. The biscuits were more for alignment as the frames were glued together (only biscuits and glue for the frames). However, the siding was also glued and nailed to the frame--that's what creates very solid and structurally rigid panels. I guess I didn't take any video of gluing and nailing the siding to the frame. On top of that, the trim was also nailed through the siding into the frame. This is the same way we built raptor enclosures at a local nature center. It is very heavy and extremely strong.
Also I live in north east is it suitable for snow area?
I'm in the Northeast. Copying a response I previously gave to someone else...
My area has a reported snow load of 30 PSF, but I did not do snow load calculations when I built this. I guess I’m living on the edge! However, I just ran some rough numbers to see how it fairs… The horizontal, unsupported distance between the posts is about 65”x24”/144”/SF=10.8 SFx30=325 lbs. The dead load is minimal. Of course, it matters what grade wood and variables you use, but when I put the info into some span tables, the sheer passes, the fiber stress barely passes, and the deflection allowance fails. The bottom line is that I’m not really worried about it. If I ever got a large snow storm, I can easily clean off the metal roof. If in doubt, you could always increase the rafters to 2x6 or greater.
Hi, thanks for share.!
How much money did you spend there?
Hard to say since I didn’t keep track and already had some of the supplies. You can certainly buy cheaper ones, but the quality of mine is far better than most.
👍
I love that. When you made the grooves in the 2 x 4 s what was the piece you glued into the grooves? Were they wood or plastic? What is the name of the tool that made the grooves? You made a beautiful coop. I plan to build one next spring.
Thanks for your comment. The slots are cut with a tool called a plate joiner or a biscuit joiner. The biscuits are made of wood. They are not structural--the purpose is really just to keep the pieces aligned as they are clamped together while the wood glue dries. You could also use nails or pocket screws to perform the same function.
Thanks for getting back with me. I can't wait to get started on mine.
Great design! My wife and I enjoyed the comments and your replies just as much as the video - great responses! Got a question regarding the floor of the enclosed coop. It looks white in one of the pictures like it is a poly type material. That or plywood painted white. Do you remember what the flooring was made from?
Thanks! Inside the henhouse, I did paint the plywood floor with white paint. However, I also covered it with a white plastic material from Home Depot to keep any fluids off the plywood. It’s a textured PVC panel sold in 4x8 sheets (relatively inexpensive). I think it might be used to cover bathroom walls or showers?
Try searching this at Home Depot: 1/16 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Plastic Panel
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks Brian! That and possibly some caulk around the edges is a great way to handle the poop floor. We are just about convinced to try the deep litter method when we get our coop built. The picture of the floor in the video and the information in your reply helped figure out how to protect the floor - much appreciated!
@@jimsutton1179 Did you see my Part 2 video? It includes more information. I also hang a poop board (covered with the same plastic) under the roosting bars. This collects the vast majority of waste. If you clean off daily, it really keeps the litter underneath very clean. That, and the deep litter works very well. I only need to change the litter 1 or 2 times a year.
@@brianweekley5700 Yes, watched Part 2 (and other videos you have posted) several times now! Saw the poop board that was hung underneath the roosting bars, figured it was covered with a plastic sheet of sorts - great idea! We had thought about doing the deep litter method without the poop board, but now my wife thinks daily collection from the poop board may be great for the compost. Thanks for the tip!
How did you attach the nesting box separators.
I tacked in some wood strips on either side of the nest separators. This makes a groove that the separator slides into. They are easy to pull out, when needed.
Helal
What is the name of the tool used to create counts sink holes?
Thanks for the question. If you’re referring to the bit used to drill the pocket holes (4:35 min), that’s a pocket hole bit (step bit). If you’re referring to the self-centering bit used to drill the pilot holes for the hinges (5:05 min), those are also called Vix bits.
What do you push in the wood at 2:15?
Wood biscuits. They're used to help keep the pieces aligned as I clamp them together until the glue dries. They don't really provide much structural support.
Beautiful job, he seems like a cabinet maker
Thank you!
Are building plans available for this coop and run?
Sorry, my plans are not available. However, you can find similar plans here: www.homegardendesignplan.com/2011/06/chicken-coop-m101.html
Do you have plans and material list that you can share?
Thanks for your interest in my design, but I haven't made it available to share. There are plans for very similar coops available online. You may find these two links helpful:
M101: www.homegardendesignplan.com/2011/06/chicken-coop-m101.html
"Wichita Coop": www.backyardchickens.com/articles/wichita-cabin-coop.47747/
Amazing job! Hands down the most well crafted coop I have seen. I have a similar story, except it was my daughter that came home with chicks. Of course I now have to build a coop. Prefab is not a viable option in that they are well intended, but poorly constructed. Using biscuits was brilliant! I may glean that idea, and a few others.
I have a couple of questions if you have time to reply. First, with regard to your foundation, what did you use as a base for the block? Or are they simply tampered down and leveled with a bunyip? Second, how did you fasten the pressure treated 2x4's to the block?
We live in the Atlantic hurricane corridor on the east coast. Not directly on the coast, but close enough for major impact. The last thing I want is a chicken coop that can take flight. Hence I have been contemplating foundation, securement, setting 4x4's in concrete as for deck construction, etc. Overall, it would need to withstand wind gusts and sometimes sustained winds up to 60 mph.
Again, excellent work! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comment. I agree, the prefabs I’ve seen are small, lightweight, overpriced, and of very poor quality. The biscuits are not structural and aren’t really needed. They mainly serve for alignment as the frame was glued and clamped together. It’s really the siding nailed to the frame that provides the structural support. I didn’t do anything special for the foundation-just dugout or filled with dirt as necessary to make it level and tamped firm. A little bit of sand was helpful to level and set the block. I’m also on the east coast and subject to nor’easters, but did not attach the sills to the block-it just sits on it. The hen house is very heavy and I’d be hard-pressed to move it. Considering the wind can blow through the mostly open structure, I think the worst that might happen is that the metal roof might blow off. Since the metal is screwed to 3/4” strapping, I don’t think it’s strong enough to lift the coop up without ripping the metal off first. We went through three nor’easters this year that caused six large pine trees to uproot or break in half in my backyard and the coop was perfectly fine. It probably also depends on your exposure-an open field with direct sustained winds or partially protected by terrain or forest?
What are the dimensions of the nesting box?
Or what are appropriate dimensions for a nesting box for anyone who can answer? Please and thanks? And what are the normal dimensions of the main door that leads to the ramp to the run?
If you look online, the recommended nest box size is about 12” deep, 14” wide, and 12” tall. The chicken door can be about 12” wide and 13” tall.
@@brianweekley5700
Super thanks for the reply!!