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Thank you, Rob!

@@Waltkat Thanks! The radial arm saw remains one of my favorites power tools to use and if you check out my channel, you’ll see I use it for all kinds of projects. Although radial arms saws are no longer popular, they are not “outlawed”. There’s only one company left in the USA that still manufactures them (Original Saw Company) and a few in Europe.

@brianweekley5700 Oh, OK. I thought they got outlawed. But then, I live in California, where everything that's fun is illegal. Lol

@@Waltkat LOL!

@@roberthanus207 It remains a very useful tool.

Thanks. Back in the 50’s it wasn’t uncommon for DeWalt to offer training to consumers on their new purchase. Perhaps a newbie to woodworking who doesn’t read directions, has no idea how to set the anti-kickback pawl, and ignores the warning sign “don’t feed from the end”! However, I agree it could be confusing if you walk up to a machine and have no idea how to use it. Obviously, people have fed from the wrong end though…

@@allanfink6138 Thanks for the nice comment. The RAS is probably my favorite power tool to use!

Glad you found the video useful. Good luck on making new jaws.

@@samla2404 Thanks. I appreciate the comment.

@@michaelcallaghan8405 Thanks for the comment. The metal bars are not needed. However, they are a proven way to keep the tops/tables flat and prevent them from bending (adds strength). It’s based on the “Mr. Sawdust table” design. If you search for that term, you’ll find more info about it.

@@jimihendrix991 DeWalt hasn’t manufactured RAS’s in the USA for many decades. However, there is a company called the “Original Saw Company” that bought the molds and still makes them here. Yes, there is a European model still sold by DeWalt. I believe there are a manufactured in Italy.

@@hobbyhermit66 If setup and used properly, they are great to use. One of the biggest dangers is not using an appropriate blade. If too aggressive or not the correct geometry, they can climb cut in crosscut mode. If you use the blades I recommended, they cut like butter.

@brianweekley5700 yes. I used to run a 20 inch radial arm saw in a pallet factory, strictly for cut-off. Also ran smaller ones in vocational school. We got to do more things with those. 👍🏻

@@hobbyhermit66 LOL! Great.

@@taubers It’s like having your own giant Jenga game! But seriously, once I start using it for the winter, I just take wood off the top and keep it covered with a tarp.

Thanks! That makes good sense!

@@markholtshousen1406 Thanks. I stacked the wood like this just for something different and thought it was cool. However, I hope you find some of the RAS videos helpful.

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, your Sears RAS probably wasn't a quality, precision saw like many of the heavier, cast-iron DeWalt's and Delta's. When properly setup and calibrated, RAS's can be precision machines.

Thanks. Good to hear. I highly recommend joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". Lots of good info and a great place to ask questions for things like bearing replacement, etc...

@@williamtyree3896 Thanks!

Thanks!

@@benjiminyoung4353 Thank you. Much appreciated.

@@erebostd Thanks. I appreciate the comment.

@@decespugliatorenucleare3780 Thanks. There are usually many, good used RAS that can be found at great prices.

@@m.y.4345 Track saws are great for breaking down a sheet of plywood. Otherwise, very inconvenient, not suitable for reproducible rips, and not practical or accurate for ripping boards, hardwoods, or small pieces. Thanks for the comment.

@@boyeatsworld-vr9ci Thanks for your opinion.

@@T0tenkampf Thanks. Glad it was helpful.

@@Hunter-vl6ft Much appreciated.

Yes, a classic. Great demo on all the things a RAS can do!

@@edwardjski Thanks!

​@@brianweekley5700Hey, what's the green feather bit on your table saw? looks very adjustable and functional.

@@James-dv1df I totally agree the bandsaw is ideal for safe ripping, but doesn’t typically provide a glue ready finish and is more susceptible to blade flex. I can’t live without both saws!

@@brianweekley5700 pass on the surface planer \ jointer and your good to go

I first began woodworking with a RAS (in my Jr. High wood shop class). I know I'm in the minority, but I generally prefer ripping on my RAS. In fact, I sold my table saw (mainly because the RAS has a smaller footprint in my small shop).

Sorry, I don’t have plans to share.

@@Yooperal3 Kids these days just don’t seem to be interested in model trains. I’m hoping to dig mine out of a box for my grandson soon.

@brianweekley5700 Unfortunately that's true about today's youth...I'm doing the same with my set as well as my Lego collection! Unfortunately it will probably all be sold 1 day cause they probably won't be interested either. Anyways Big Pine Lumber was a really cool set to play with as a kid!

Block alignment? I just turn the handles and get the threads in the same position on both sides and screw the top to the brackets. Curious as to the need to have quick release?

Glad you were amused! Yes, part of the reason was just to show that it can be done on a RAS (inspired by a discussion I read that box joints was something a RAS couldn’t do, but a TS could). With that said, I once made a large, beautiful bed frame with 3/4” wide box joints using the RAS. That is something you can’t practically do on a TS or Router table (try feeding a 6’ long rail on end with a typical box joint jig). On the RAS, the length is almost unlimited. Sometimes it’s nice having different tools and options for a project.

No doubt the RAS is versatile. My RAS(s) do everything I need. In fact, I even sold my table saw (mainly for space savings). Enjoy your free saw! If you haven’t done so, consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. Lots of good tips and information. A great place to ask any any questions you may have.

@brianweekley5700 yea i guess if you could only have 1 out of table saw, radial arm, and miter, the Radial is the most versatile of the 3. Who wudda thunk

Thanks. Much appreciated!

Thanks. Even though you have a Sears saw, I highly suggest joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". In the FAQs section, there is some info about making your own anti-kickback pawls. However, you can often find them sold on eBay if you keep your eyes open for them.

Good to hear!

Thank you! 😊

@@MichaelJohnson-tf8so Thanks. Looks like you’re a cyclist too. Ride on!

@@coppulor6500 Note that I don’t claim to completely eliminate snipe. A lot of my snipe was caused by flex in the table and the metal under the cutter head. My new, long, rigid table eliminated the snipe caused by that symptom. My planer has a pretty good locking cutter head. However, a lot of people have snipe caused by the lack of a locking mechanism or movement in the cutter head. The new table would not help that problem. So, my snipe was drastically reduced, but your mileage may vary! Good luck!

Not only did you claim it would eliminate snipe but I remember specifically you calling me and guaranteeing that it would eliminate snipe or else you would give me $5,000. 😁 I realize it doesn't eliminate it but it will certainly help! But what do you think of the four roller idea? Seems logical no? Also, thank you for the video and information and reply 👍🏻👍🏻

@ LOL! Are you talking something like two rollers on each side of the table? My only concern would be lining all the rollers up. It only takes a few thousandths off to cause snipe. The nice thing about my extra long, flat table is that it also helps me feed the wood level and keep it from tipping at the beginning and end of the cut (which also causes snipe). Experiment and see what you get. Good luck.

@@coppulor6500 Thanks. The “reach around” probably looks worse than it was, but certainly wasn’t necessary. Thanks for calling me out on it!

Thank you. I appreciate the comment. I have many more videos planned, but finding the time to make them is always a challenge. Glad you appreciated it!

Thanks. Glad you found it useful.

Thank you. Yes, a small blade has advantages. Stay safe.

Glad it was helpful!

It was many years ago, but I found some industrial feet on eBay. A cheaper method is to simply drill holes, install some threaded inserts, and use bolts as feet. They don’t need to be huge as they just serve for leveling and support.

@ Ok. That’s a good idea. Thank you for this and for this awesome video. I just bought some MDF and I’m going to build this soon!

@@toddh4617 Thanks. Note that I don’t claim this eliminates all snipe-especially any caused by any unwanted movement of the cutter head. On my planer, I have a good lock on the cutter head, but the table was flexing and causing significant snipe. My new, longer, and stiffer table significantly reduced snipe on my machine. It is really nice having a longer table (keeps boards from tipping and useful for sleds. However, your mileage may vary! Good luck and let me know how it works out for you.

@@brianweekley5700 Oh man, I’m not going to blame you for any snipe, you made a super helpful video that 693,000 people have benefited from! I appreciate everything and hope you make some more great videos! Thank you!

Thanks, much appreciated! The cutout below the fence ensures you can push the two halves together so they touch the blade. If the cutout wasn’t there, you’d find as the kerf gets worn, you no longer be able to push them together to get the zero clearance. In addition, if you need to, you can push the halves together to cut another fresh kerf. Hope that makes sense. BTW, instead of the keyhole bit I used in this video, I now install a vertical spline (rip about 1/4” off the bottom of the fence, cut a slot in the edge to fit the bar, then glue the 1/4” piece back on). A vertical spline is less prone to bend than the horizontal one I used in this video.

Ah yes, makes perfect sense. Funny, I wasn't thinking about the kerf getting worn over time (the primary point of your invention!) as much as being able to change the width of the kerf. Thanks for the tip on the new method with vertical spline. That does sound more robust, but I also like the elegance of the first method. I wonder if a steel spline with keyhole bit might be stiff enough. Anyway, thank you for your kind reply!

The purpose of the spline is just to hold the two halves of fence in place as you slide them together (so they don’t fall down into the base). As long as you have a tight fit, aluminum is fine. However, the keyhole bit does remove a lot more material leaving you with a slot. You may find that the lip remaining holding the spline may break off over time (it’s more fragile). The newer method is more robust since the spline is completely contained once you glue the bottom back on. You could just attach a strip o wood under the table to hold the fence too (kind of a shelf for it to sit on). You’ll figure it out and it’s easy to make more! Regardless how you make it, I think you’ll like having an adjustable fence. Good luck!

I see, it's the thin walls of that open channel from key hole bit. The new method with glued-back strip does have its advantages then. Thanks for the reply; I look forward to making this!

Have fun!

Thanks for the comment. The SawStop is definitely a nice tool. I sold my old Craftsman table saw-mainly to gain space. Although there are times I miss having a table saw, I’ve found that I can do everything I need with my RAS.

Thanks! I appreciate the comment.

@@JayChuckOnFire Thanks. It’s important not to rip without the anti-kickback pawl. I highly suggest joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. Lots of good people who can offer advice or answer questions about your saw. In the FAQs section, there is guidance on making your own pawl if you can’t find a replacement. Unfortunately, most used saws are missing them.

Even then, that blade is pushing the board down on the surface reducing the risk of kickback. I have found the two things to consistently do. Keep your and and fingers out of the path of the blade. And don't stand in the path of a potential kickback or ejection.