MazdaSpeed 3/6 Reliability Issues/ Common Problems
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2024
- Apparently MazdaSpeed 3/6 MPS, are unreliable, allegedly the MZR Engine is bad.
Today we go over Mazdaspeed 3 common problem and Mazdaspeed 6 common problems. Hows the reliability Mazdaspeed 3 MPS or Reliability MazdaSpeed 6 MPS.
We will Discuss the MZR's Weak Rods, Mazdaspeeds bad Turbo Seals on the k04 as well as The MZR High Pressure Fuel Pump Internals.
We will talk about how to fix the mazdaspeed 6/reliability problems and how to prevent them from happening as well the symptoms of the MZRs common problems.
Shout to the Creators of the Broll
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For those in the salt belt of the US and Canada...RUST!!! Rust is by far the biggest issue on these cars, at least for the Gen1 speed3 and the speed6.
Also, specifically for the speed6 :
- power steering lines rusting away in the front and at the PS cooler on the front driver side
- Power steering pump failing (mainly because people use the wrong fluid in it and put PS fluid instead of ATF)
- rear differential mount cracking and eventually letting go
- front differential housing cracking where the mount bolts on
- propshaft rear u-joint that is a stacked type and is a pain to replace IF you manage to find the right part (only managed to find Spicer replacements but they break easily when launched)
- does go through wheel bearings quite often
- Clutch pedal bracket cracking and eventually snapping leaving you with no control of the clutch
- Clutch master cylinder failing
- VVT failing (for all Speeds and also Mazda cx7)
Despite all that, they are great cars for cheap. Even fixing em is cheap thanks to cross model parts sharing between speed3, speed6 and Mazda CX7 turbo.
Good info bro, Ive pinned it for others to see! Yeah man rust is a big issue on all Mazdas, so bad I tried to replace a rusted door on my Mazda, but I couldn't find a door to replace it with, that didn't have rust 😳
This is why we undercoat vehicles
@@sendit1158 even with undercoat, the paint is so dog shit on these cars that they'll just rust still
Yes! A great preventive maintenance idea
Yeah true, you can't inderseal your body work 😳
Thanks for all the informative feedback! I enjoy your content, keep up the good work!
Algd my guy, I enjoy making it and seeing that people like it, thanks!
Love my Gen 1! Watching some of these modded ones makes me want to do more on mine 😍
Ay let's go 👀
These cars is not expensive to maintaine.if u drive stock one.clean egr valve.and intake valves every 50 000km.service car every 5000 to 10 000km.ise qaulity antifreeze.and let car idle after a hard drive before switching car off.if u do all these and maintaine car.the car will last very long.my mps have 230 000km on clock.no issues.no engine codes.no smoke.no ising oil.
Yes this is true, unfortunately alot of people dont
@@LifeOfTuners defnitly.i agree.
Totally agree- keep it stock and service it properly.
I really need to clean my EGR then... Fuck
How do we stop the rust 😅
I totally forgot about the timing chain issue, my bad sorry.
What does it effect?
Basically it effect all Gen 1 mazdaspeed 3s and the 2010 gen 2, and íf your speed 6 did not get it's timing chain recall completed with a new and improved chain, then that too, but don't worry since it probaly did get replaced.
What happens?
Basically what happens is that with age the chain will stretch. Timing chains aren't meant to stretch but some do. This can lead to timing issues
What are the problems with this?
Oil leaks for starters but most importantly with bad timing, your piston might absolutely abolish a value(s) as they slam into each other, at which point, engine rebuild time.
How can you tell if it needs work?
It usally requires maintenance between 60k and 90k miles, though you know it becomes a problem when you can hear knocking or rattling when idling and/or below 2000rpm
What's the fix?
New timing chain, now you may have replaced a timing belt before, but let me tell you, a timing chain is much harder to do, and it's not really something you want to mess up as it controls your timing, however if your quite handy then you should be alright to do it, but a mechanic is always a safe bet.
Thanks everyone and have a good day/night 👍
I have a 2011- no mods apart from hpp fuel pump internals and motor mounts- I service it religiously and change the oil every 3000 miles - the main thing is be happy with 0-60 in 6secs and 155mph. Most of the time I keep it under 100mph and just ride that creamy torque- it regularly does 30 mpg on a run but obviously does less if you push it- I absolutely love it. Main thing if you buy one is try to find an unmolested example.
Don’t ever wide open throttle in 6 th
Facts never in any boosted car, esp an mps with stock hpfp
The torque is insane and your right it's pretty hard to launch them being fwd
@@ethankilgore7934 well, i would think wot is fine in 6th, with the upgraded hpfp internals AND not lugging it from low rpm's!
THAT, should be fine for opening it up for top speed runs...
You got my like dude! Like the vid :)
Ayye thanks bro, glad you liked it!
Just keep doing you. I'll def keep liking it!
Thanks man, I appreciate it 👍💯
This started happening a month ago to my 3! Just recieved the cst4, cs hpfp, atp turbo long highflow cat downpipe, and hks ssqv bov 😊
That was crap, but good on you, I see your turning it into a positive, more power to come 😏
Hell yea. Couldn't put another ko4 in.. Great videos man! Keep it up 👍
That's the way, and thanks bro, it means a lot!
@@ballsnweeners100 yeah no doubt.. only way id put the same output turbo back in is if its a $125 one off Amazon!! And even then i will try to find one that will give more power!!
@@ballsnweeners100 **amd what started happening to your speed 3 that you were referring to? Thanks
The stock turbo doesn’t need a full replace. It needs a new cartridge insert. Much much cheaper than the full thing. pfun41 has a vid on replacing the cartridge in a CX-7. Highly recommend.
Oh yeah, I've heard a bit about that in NZ, but I don't know too much since most go for like a cst4 or bnr.
What are they like, does the turbo still run out of puff at higher rpms like a stock k04?
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My wife had a 3 MPS done 300,000km, ultra reliable!
It's funny how they marketed the 6 MPS as a performance car, though it's more of a dad car than a performance car. It's heavy and you can feel the weight. (P. S. I own the 6 MPS).
Your a lad to put down your own car, I'd more say it's a performance dad car definitely, any car that size, with AWD and all the features at the price point will weight the same I guess, and it still does handle well and go fast, that's just my opinion tho, we need more people like you who can admit the shortcomings of what they like 🙏
Its just a sleeper in that its not super flashy, at least in stock form.. ive seen some crazy quick speed 6's on here though, wild how quick with some extra hp and the traction with awd!!
I had a Speed6 for 9 years. It never failed to start or stop before I wanted it to. BUT, rust man, rust. Rust underneath, rust on the rear wheel arches, rust on the leading edge of the bonnet (hood). VVTI system needs to be replaced on older cars and smokey turbo. As I said, I had over 8 years of running 320bhp with the only problem being a slightly smoking turbo (and rust). Loved that car.
They are mad, but damn your right, Mazda really needs to fix their rust issues
@@LifeOfTuners the ex had a white Mazda 323 v6 for years and that had ZERO RUST anywhere. Things really started going tits up with the build quality when Ford started taking over.
Ford was a big mistake, I wish they stayed to themself. And look at Mazda now, even though they don't really do sporty cars, the quality of new Mazdas is so high
@@LifeOfTuners O I agree. The drop in quality from the 323 (and before) was shocking. After the 323 the ex had a Mazda 6 sport, then a Mazda 3 Sport and both rusted away. The Speed 6 is a rare car in the UK (they only sold about 1,000), and given the cost of repair, the £550 p/year road tax and worst of all, the rampant rust (bugger me, the alloy wheels corrode something fierce), they will vanish very soon.
Yeah bruh, I have a Mazda 3 sport, it's got quite a bit of rust, specifically on one door, we tried to find a replacement door since we couldn't repair it, and not one supplier could find a door that wasn't already rusted
Decat is not causing the trouble for the seals. Boost is! Everyone running high boost creates alot heat. Stock k04 can't handle that.
Like a dcat doesn't cause it, but from what I hear alot around is that if your turbo is smoking, a decat will make there appear to be more smoke and also it can make them fail sooner, and yeah the boost, little boy k04 getting all this boost rammed in him and he just can't handle it ☹️
20psi max, more is goodbye k04. Im running catless for 190k km. No issues at all. Running 19,5psi. Valveseals went sooner then the turbo.
Yeah under 20 you should be aight, tho there's people that say like 25/26 is safe and like man, I wouldn't even go above 22, and at the point, 2 psi is really gonna give you much more power at all really, good that your has been reliable, we need people like you around who actually know how to look after a fast car, over in the UK and Australia and stuff, the speeds are alot of peoples first fast car and they go around slapping random parts on it, yeeting up the boost and timing, doing irregular oil and spark plugs changes, then blow it up and complain that they're unreliable af, like bruh look what you did to it mate
@@LifeOfTuners the appearance of smoke being reduced by having a catted downpipe is not increasing reliability it's the appearance of not having as much smoke. I don't understand how having a catted downpipe helps turbo reliability. The cat is only there for emissions and nothing else. Do you have any sources on your claims of hurt reliability from having a decatted downpipe?
That's it to be fair, because the main relibility issue usally isn't performance related as with blown turbo seals, you'll still be hitting same boost, afrs etc, but primarily the main problem is the appearance of smoke, sitting their at the lights with clouds of smoke emoting from your presumably loud car is both embarrassing and you look like an ass, so yeah you are kinda right, it's not technically the reliabilty in terms of longevity and performance, but more appearance, though I'm sure give it enough time and the hot oil will fk up the rest of the turbo or it won't be lubricated sufficiently and therefore fkn yeet into the atmosphere
Getting A Gen 2 space grey in next couple Of months can’t wait 💪😊
Oh yes! Let's go, must be looking forward to that!
@@LifeOfTuners I am mate first real performance car I’ve owned.
I Was considering golf r or Audi s3 monthly payment plan deal. But the Mazda I’m getting has better performance with the mods onit and a lot less finance commitment long term. No brainier if you ask me. Also Less common like golf or Audi’s too 😊
Oh yes, great choice, more financially responsible, and NGL ay more fun then the Golf's and Audi's 👀
@@LifeOfTuners ye man :). Your channel is my daily mps porn 😉
Did you buy it ?
I have a Manzo 3" Downpipe on my 08MS3 and I get white smoke every once in a while but it's not bad. And you want to do Oil Changes every 3k miles and i would suggest checking your oil at least once every few weeks just to be safe. Im Freek Tuned with no check engine lights running smooth as butta 😎
Yeah like if there's not any loss in performance or anything concerning happening, it's Algood, Freektune FTW!!!
Rotella t6 5w 40🥰
Funny we used to run 20w50 oil in our big bore performance street bikes, though we always let them warm up before romping on them!!
Wonder how that heavy of an oil would do with keeping them from smoking with turbo seals, or rings etc that are getting old!?
Never floor it in 6th, VVT, don’t floor it under 3000RPM, need fuel pump interns before modding, etc. get a pro tune by Freektune, PD, nishan
Facts man, never do it in any boosted car, ESPICIALLY speeds with their crappy high pressure fuel pumps
Don't boost it in upper gears!?
Yeah don't boost at low rpm
Mine 6 was a mechanical nightmare, one problem after another on daily light driving. Literally replaced everything and then the motor shit it’s pants.. fun for the in between times when it ran great
Isn’t the turbo water cooled via coolant lines? Excessive idle doesn’t seem necessary?
Yes it is water cooled, but oil lubricated. If you don't let it idle, the hot oil stays in the turbo and did up the seals, so it is good to let it idle
2:50 R.I.P. HEADPHONE USERS / SUBWOOFER USERS :(
Oooooppp ripppp
It scared the shit outta me 😂😂😂
I blew my seals and got a corksport turbo if you have to get a new upgrade the oem is a waste of money above 16 psi of boost it has no durability or follow thru and please god never put thicker oil your oil pressure will go through the roof causing a lot more blow by than the motor already has which is alot anyway good video man i just want to let you know
Yeah k04s are trash, that's sick that you went big turbo, did you go cst4? Thicker oil ain't too bad, and like if your tracking it or modifing it a thicker oil Is a good idea already, though not as bad as s550 Mustang v8s, stock ford recommend 5w 20, which ofc turns to shit under pressure.
Bnr all the way. Fully agree with the tuner being a mps tuner, its also important they know how to tune at altitude. Cali pro tunes are great it cali not in pa with 28inhg barro.
Ftw! Yeah, the right tuner and you'll be set, your very right about matching your altitude
Absolutely spot on with these. Just rebuilt my motor and put a cst4 in it. It has a little lag compared to the k04 but I can rest easy knowing that my turbo isn't going to be leaking anymore. As for tuning I go through Alan Jackson from edge autosports. I've heard nothing but good about him and I've had nothing but great tunes from him. Just the base tune alone is enough to see his quality of work and he always gets back fast and will answer any questions you have.
Ay thanks mate! The price of mind is always good! And also id sacrifise a little bit of lag for a turbo that pulls right to redline! And yeah same, I've only heard great things about edge as well, they seem like real great car guys
man i want a spd6 so bad but im so damn scared of getting a lemon! found one for $8500 with 115k miles and its really tempting me! Also a 13 spd3 that has my attention but I really want the spd6 awd. So conflicted, wish I could make up my mind lol
ohhh yes, lower mile ones are usually fine, but it’s all about how they’ve been tested and maintained, if it hasn’t been good, then above 100k miles they will be problematic
I’ve been getting fuel cut offs when I accelerate. I already have a Cobb tuner, cold air intake, high pressure fuel pump, cat back exhaust from corksport.
Would u possibly know what it can be
I have other shit but can’t think of it rn
My thought would probaly be something to do with the tune your running, either that it isn't liking the current temperatures/air density, or that the car thinks it's over posting and does it to protect it self from yeeting to space, though that's basically always a boost cut, your tuner should be able to sort it out if you have one, I'll keep thinking
All Performance Cars yeah that what I’ve been told that it’s protecting the motor. I was talking to a friend and said the car does that because of cold weather. Might be that because the day before it like 90 then the next day it was misty and like 60 which was prtty fuckinh cold
Yeah that's it, I know a guy who got his Evo tuned in Portland, Oregon, then drove back home to Spokane, Washington, and that 350 mole change in location and weather meant that it wouldn't even idle with out dieing, plus fuel cuts as well
A frustrated owner of a stock Mazdaspeed 6 here,
Having issues with intermittent stuttering. I have got two new ignition coils, all new spark plugs, had the fuel injectors cleaned plus 1 replaced with a tested used one and I still have intermittent stuttering. It did work almost fine after all the work above but it is getting really bad now.
So, the car starts up and idles and drives fine for about 2-10 minutes. Then it has some small stutters when just cruising(at about 2200-2500 rpm, very low throttle input) for about 5-15 seconds and then continues fine for about 1-10 minutes and then repeats.
But accelerating or being over 3k rpm it seems to work perfectly. However it has started to stutter so badly that it seems to almost stall until I press the clutch and rev the engine hard, then it will work for a few minutes again.
I have had a VVT error once, I cleared it and it has not come back for 4000 kms now. Also I have a system too lean at idle error that comes once in a while when stopped at traffic lights.
The local Mazda technicians(not the dealer) thought that the issue might be the high pressure fuel pump. The car is a 2007 Mazda 6 MPS and has now just over 200 000 km on the clock. Does anyone know the symptoms of a bad HPFP? It seems that the HPFP is cheaper than I feared, so probably going to get that fixed in the coming weeks anyway.
I have been searching about this for while, and this video is the first one I stumbled across even mentioning the high pressure fuel pump.
Oh dear, that's crap, yeah thoughs symptoms did sound like ignition coils, but obviously not, if it was anything like that you'd get misfire codes, it could be a high pressure fuel pump, though I wouldve thought then it would be stuttering out on high rpms when theres a high demand for fuel and fine in lower rpms?
Is it tuned? It sounds like it could be a bad tune/ running mods without a tune?
Do you have an accessport or anything to monitor afrs or injector duty etc?
@@LifeOfTuners As for the high pressure fuel pump I was thinking it would also basically run out of fuel at high rpms, but I was told that the pump may overcome its losses at higher rpms. I personally don't know for sure. Also, when gently accelerating from 2200 rpm in 6th gear it starts to work fine.
As for the ignition coils, I got two replaced due to stuttering at gentle acceleration from about 2500 rpm, and that seems to have gotten fixed. Also, the two coils were somehow flooded in water, not coolant, from I assume the intercooler melting in the winter(that was almost a year ago now). However I was also told that apparently the coils can fail from the engine running lean, which I can't understand either.
Also, I did get misfire codes for cylinders 1 and 3 before replacing ignition coils and misfire code for cylinder 1 before getting the injectors cleaned(The first one was so bad that it was completely stuck, or so they told me atleast) by some ultrasound cleaning method.
I also got the crankshaft position sensor replaced just because someone on the internet somewhere said it caused the stuttering and the part was very cheap.
As far as I know it is not tuned and there doesn't appear to be any mods either. It starts building boost at about 2300-2500 rpm and loses boost quite a bit below redline, so it really feels like a stock setup to me. Also emissions regulations are fairly tough around here and it passed that perfectly.
As for monitoring, all I have is a 5 dollar bluetooth OBD II reader and an android phone with a free app simply called "Car Scanner". I have tried to monitor fuel pressure, but it seems weird - even with the engine off the app states that the fuel pressure is infinitely increasing, so I am really not sure it is actually reading things right. When driving it seemed to work fine, but I find it difficult to monitor while driving. I will try to screen capture some graphs tomorrow hopefully. The app also said that the VVT only adjusted less than 5 degrees, which seems wrong to me.
I should maybe point out that it is my first car with a turbo and my first direct injection car aswell as my first VVT equipped car(Apart from a BMW with a seemengly broken VANOS).
Thank you for a response though, I do plan on keeping the car for a while since I like it enough to keep fixing it. Also sorry for writing these mini novels :D
Ahaha don't worry about the mini novels, the more info the better.
If it runs fine from really low rpm in 6th, I'd think it wouldn't be the high pressure fuel pump, because when they do fail, it's usually when you floor it from a low rpm in a high gear? Maybe I'm wrong
I could see ignition coils failing when running to lean, as it's kind of 'out of its comfort zone' if you will 😂
That sounds like it's running a stock tune
Yeah then I'd be thinking injectors but youve had them cleaned, I don't really know, usually someone else in the comments comes a long with a few ideas, I'll get back to you if I think of something else?
@@LifeOfTuners It is always a possibility that the injectors either did not get cleaned well enough or they have just worn out. But they did say that they got tested after cleaning though.
It's all good, that's why I'm here, to get ideas since the local Mazda repair shop dosen't really know for sure either.
Yeah true, though like you've said they've been tested, out of chance are the fuel lines all in tact?
I think these were reliable if you didn't mod the engine or power output. I only stiffened up the suspension and daily drove it (with some track) 325,000 miles. Replaced the VVT actuator and timing chain around 160K, pretty much fixed the turbo smoke by switching oil to 5W-40. Never cleaned the valves once. I know it's only one example, but mine was very reliable and needed no unscheduled maintenance except for the VVT/timing chain once.
WHAT 325,000 MILES 😳 WHOOLEY DAMN!
That's crazy, well done bro, 300whp is nearly just as reliable as stock, though you won't get it to 325,000 miles 😳
@@LifeOfTuners ahh, it all depends a bit on luck, but more so on how it is driven and maintained! Few more lbs of boost isn't gonna make the difference from 200kmi and 350kmi!
@VAspeed3, that is awesome, gives me a bit more confidence buying one of tge high mileage ones i keep finding that are within my budget-- well, im more concerned with some stupid kid grinding gears, beating the crap out of it without maintaining it then extra miles on one!!
yes it’s all about how the previous owners have treated it really, some go all the way past 300,000kms on a stock engine
Don't zzb, it's not fun :(
Imma beg for a like if you enjoyed ;)
I have an 07 Mazda Speed 3 that just turned 89,000 miles on the clock. Totally stock and unmolested. Only mod are rims and tires. All smiles so far... Do I keep it stock or do you suggest any mods??
Stock will be most reliable, but more power = more fun, usally under ~300whp doesn't effect relibility at all, so that would be your high pressure fuel pump internals, intake, downpipe and then tuned by a good tuner, as long as you maintain it, ie oil changes every 3k to 5k miles and spark plugs, it'll be really good, then if you want more power it's always on the table and I fyou can run e85, it gives big advantages
@@LifeOfTuners how often on the plug change? Bought this car with 60K on the clock and bet stock plugs are in it. Plug brand of choice? Been doing my own oil changes on the regular, only thing I had to do so far...
If your stock thats not to bad, some people say every 75k while others say 30k, once you start to modify, start with like 5k to 15k, see how they look, if they look bad, then try more often, if they look good then you can do it less often, you can't really go wrong with NGKs, and defo oil change is more important then plugs, some other mods that aren't power related would be your passenger and rear motor mounts, also solid shifter bushings, give a much sharper feel to the gearbox and a stiffer rear anti roll bar makes the back end more playful, cocking a wheel etc!
Corksport intake for the turbo boost noises youll be fine on stock map
I wish I could comment the picture of Adam Sandler shaking the fat kids face "STAY STOCK AS LONG AS YOU CAN"
Does the speed 6 engine have the same block as the NA Mazda 6?
From what I've heard, yes same block, but the internals, is rods, pistons, bearings etc is different
You don’t have to buy a whole new turbo. They sell ko4 seal kits which I have done before.
Really? Haven't heard to much about that? Was it hard, how long does it last and like was it expensive? Damn I know some people go and get there's rebuilt professionally, which costs a little less, but it's stronger, I'm interested
My brother wants to buy one with 170k miles is not worth it?
I'm confused, how does a decatted downpipe hurt turbo reliability? It just increases the flow of the exhaust. Which gets you more power but for reliability it would reduce the pressure because it's able to flow more which shouldn't effect the life of the turbo. Do you have a source?
It's facts, that's what I and many people have experienced from the Mazdaspeed or infact entire boosted car community, decat causes turbo oil issues (specifically turbo seals) to be honest I don't understand why, my guess would be it creating some sort of not vacuum, but differentiated pressure, though I must say, it isnt really worsening the seals, just that the issue becomes much more aparent, you can have no smoking on a cated dwnpipe, switch to a decat, have smoking, then back to carted and no smoking
You obviously dont know how exhaust works
@@chrispeppers2883 I was asking a question my dude
That explosion gave me a heart attack lmao
Oopsie daisy 👉👈
Dude you forgot. Turbos the seal IT ends quickly. Need to change oil at 3k km intervals. If not turbo is going bye bye sooner or later. First sign white smoke at idle after some time. Mazda even did a quiet service action for IT on some eu countries. My turbo died on me at 60k km
I don't think I forgot that?
I have a noise in my MPS' transfer case and they are hard to find 😭
Ah sheee, could you get it rebuilt?
Comment for support 👍
Aye legend, my guy understands the UA-cam algorithms 🙏
The biggest prob is operator error. This kids buy them and can barely find their way through the tree, grinding gears for days. If people learn how to actually drive the car correctly and how to safely produce higher hp gains then there would be a lot less zzb. I have an 06mps6 in black cherry mica and it’s sad that the msp6’s are becoming so damn rare nowadays due to idiots destroying them.
Exactly man, in like the uk, Australia and New Zealand, they've got such a big name for constantly blowing up and it pissed me off because 98% of the time, like you said, it's some brain dead kid who's blow the mfer up then tells everyone they know how uNrELiAbLe it was 🙄
I want to love the Mazdaspeed 3/6 platform, and have been in the market for one, but after looking, I realized that 80% of them either have engine issues or the engine has been replaced. I understand that these are cars have been through heavy abuse but so is every sports car that can take the abuse. These Mazdaspeed engines aren't sturdy.
It's all about the owner, after 200,000kms they would've had a fckwit behind the wheel who doesn't know how to maintain a car properly.
The reality is that most turbo 4 cylinders of the era are the same
qq, i want to buy a mazda 6 mps, is the awd a problematic thing or is it reliable?
Its good, if you launch it a lot a rear axle might go, but that's similar with most and cars
@@LifeOfTuners thanks for your reply 👍🏽👍🏽
Random by maybe someone will know I just got a first generation speed3 and for whatever reason it won’t start or if it does it dies after like 4 minutes idle any ideas?? 😭
Maybe injector seals? How many miles are on it?
I own 3MPS for 9 years and 150kkm on tune and bolt on mods. Main problem is a rust.
Nice bro, long time, rust is big one!
Gen 1 or 2??
Could you say the same about the 2008 Axela 20S?
Nahh, they won't really have any of these issues due to it being a different drivetrain, though the 2.0 axelas are quite reliable, more reliable then the 2.3s. the biggest problem with them (and we'll most Mazdas) will be rust
@@LifeOfTuners thank you for your wisdom
Algood bro
Timing chain/VVT is also a weak point on these cars.
Mm that to, I might make a part 2 if people want
They fixed all these issues in the 12-13 Mazdaspeed 3s so if you have an older one it’s very unfortunate
Yeah gen 2s had a better vvt actuator and timing chain (as well as some mildly updated rods, tho they're not really noticably stronger) definately a plus to have that, tho I wouldn't so much say its unfortunate, like the gen 1s drive nicer and imo the interiors more hotboi, but that the thing with them, it's all about personal preference like do you want a newer car with more tech that is stronger or an older one that's Rawer and lighter
it's not that it's weak people hate doing the job when it's time. 90k should change chain and vvt anyway
@@tyronenur2373 lol fake news^
Can someone help me with my Mazda 3? When I bought it, it seemed fine and then the ATS system kept going off and sometimes there would be no power but the car was still on can someone please help me?
Hmmm I don't know, uh btw, what is ATS? Maybe it's some sort of grounding issue?? Idk
@@LifeOfTuners I have no idea but on the dash it says ats and when the light goes off it’s of a car swerving
Ah so just looked it up, it stands for 'Automatic trans axle' hopefully it's just low on transmission fluid
No I'm not racing other cars, I'm racing to mod my MPS enough to upgrade to a bigger turbo, before my OEM one decides to shit itself
Ayyyye nice, this horsepower war is ruining everything tbh
CX-7 has that engine as well. I have both.
Yeah they do
The rods ain't weak really.its the little ass turbo producing to much boost under 3k..also since the turbo is so small,it will produce alot of heat at 18psi+ psi,which doesn't ..this will cause detonation,which also kill rods
You really need to know these engines, then they can be strong! And yeah so true, it's not power that kills the engine, it's the low down torque, and that fast spool on the standard k04 brings in heaps
Owner of a 09 Mazdaspeed 3 I ran into so many problems.. I know the problem before it happens
That's shit, it's always a little risky buying one, cos you don't know if the old owner maintained it alot or let it cool down etc
Highly recommend a pre purchase inspection at a reputable mechanic, preferably one that works on performance cars. It doesn't cost more than a oil change and it will save you depression
ran into or created? lol
@@daniellee6408 race to much
Ahaha that's the spirit
this why i got the base model mazda3- no power, no problems, mostly💀
I love the protege speed
They are pretty damn cool
@@LifeOfTuners but delicate engine 😅😅😅
Yes, quite delicate indeed 😳
@@LifeOfTuners i broken 2 time engine and now i make forge engine fs 😅🙄
Bruhhhh that's rip, though forging it can only lead to some fun times 👀
A friend is selling one to me a speed 6, but kinda like thinking twice now😒
No don't! They are great cars! Superb! Every car has their issues. What's great is that you're buying it from a friend, someone you can trust, I've done videos before explaining why we love them so much! Great cars!
ua-cam.com/video/QRtDABUhn_I/v-deo.html
@@LifeOfTuners thanks!
with the turbo you can just take it and get it reconditioned. this is a fraction of the price of a new turbo...but everyone knows the K04 turbo is a shit turbo so if you're going to the effort of swapping it out go for a better turbo in general haha
I've heard vaguely about reconditioning them and that's what I thought everyone would do way back, but damn straight, who'd put money and time into it to keep the K04
@@LifeOfTuners all depends on the user. So far my turbo is still fine (probably jinxed it now haha) but I'm keeping mine stock to sell next year, but in the UK MPS groups a good alt to buying a whole new turbo is to get them reconditioned. can cost £250-£400 for a recondition instead of £900+ for a brand new turbo. so the option is there if you're short for cash and cant afford a whole turbo.
It's weird some k04s can last well, but most don't, I guess maybe cos the cars had a good owner it's whole life maybe? That's true about money turbos cost heaps even the cst4 at 900usd/£650ish, but capable
All Performance Cars one thing you could of added to this extremely helpful video, which seems to be a reoccurring issue with higher mileage Speed3s is Timing chain stretching. Diagnosed by a audible rattle on cold start. Always something to look out for as it seems a fairly common thing here in the UK to check the timing chain at 60kmiles for any signs of stretching. Also the VVT Actuator (even the revised one in the gen2s) is known to fail.
Yeahhh I've heard that a lot, I totally missed that, for the gen 1s and the 2010 models of the gen 2 it's still an issue. Rip people who buy one and assume since it's a timing chain that they don't need to replace it like on most chain cars, I guess they'll find that issue when their valves meet their pistons
I love my speed6 even though I've put 12k in parts and it's been on jack stands more than I've driven it. But I love almost being the only one in town with one. (Theres 2 more I've seen) that's it.
That's nice man, glad you like it! And yes very rare!
I had mine for almost 9 years, never saw another one. It was great.
I only found out about them while searching for a speed 3 recently, and i found a few for sale within a few hours driving distance! Im also out in middle of nowhere middle united states..
Cant wait to find the right 3/6, gti or possibly an RS or ST if i found a deal on one!! I am jonsing to get rid of my ratty '97 jeep grand cherokee and get into something that handles and is fairly quick with some good gas mileage!!
Definitely forgot timing chain and vvt
Yeah true, maybe a part 2 to come with also the rust and maybe the fact that it's di?
If you have a MS3/6 and you floor it in 5th or 6th, you're going to have a bad time.
Yuhhhhh don't lug the engine with stock High pressure fuel pump internals
@@LifeOfTuners No, just don't floor it in 5th or 6th
Trueee I guess yeah, unless your like it 5k then it's aight, but that is quite fast, like pretty damn fast 😳
wait why not?
The stock high pressure fuel pump internals aren't very good, they can't flow alot of petrol, so when you floor it in a high gear, at a low rpm, it puts heaps of lug on the engine and demand for petrol, the high pressure fuel pump struggles to supply all that petrol, it then doesn't supply enough, so the engine runs lean and it gets damaged
With boosted or normal cars, essentially your at a very low rpm, and flooring it, you're demanding a lot of power, but since the engines at a low rpm it can't make it, it also makes it harder for the transmission too as it require more energy to spin.
And with boosted cars, when you floor it in a high gear at low rpm, you can build a lot of boost really early, and for some reason ( idk the reason, I thought noone knew for sure, but their are theory's) it causes pre-ignition, as the air fuel mixture is combusted before the spark.
I'm pretty sure that's it, but if anyone wants to add to that or fix up a mistake I made, please do!
I have a check engine light. Cause I deleted the egr system lol
Ahaha screw emissions we want the fast fast 😈
you can get a tune to ignore it, and pass emissions.
bro please stop with the jumpscares 😂😂😂💀💀
ahaha my bad
clutch master cylinder keeps failing
That sucks man, do you know if there's any cause to it doing that?
My man said frequent oil changes then said 5,000 miles. Excuse me?
I said atleast right? 3ks like ideal but no more then 5k
@@LifeOfTuners I'm with you on the 3ks or less
Me watching on the side on the road with 0 coolant cus sped6
Uh ko4 aren't 1k theyre cheap turbos you can get for 100-200. Even rebuilt one with bullet wheels only cost $500. So the turbos in the speeds are cheap af. Better off upgrading to a bnrs4
Yeah but like for a new oem one, like yeah used they're cheap, but the seals will probaly go again, though yeah you could go rebuilt, but your right, what's the point, just get something better
@@LifeOfTuners even New I don't see going for that much. If you go to a dealership ya its pricey a new transmission was 5k there a used one with close to 90k miles same as my car had was like $300.
Maybe it's exchange rates? Idk but I don't see new oem ones for what they should cost, but fk 5k for a trans bloody hell
@@LifeOfTuners right ha. Cost me 2700 just to get a transmission in there. I could have done it but I was being lazy ha
Fair enough ay 😂
Go to Chris Ward on the speed forms rebuilt turbo 400bucks.
Damn, that's a bargain! He's the guy that just sold his gen pu for a GTR ay?
Let's also not forget the VVT and Timing chain issues. But you are correct in saying you have to do your maintenance. Love the video glad there's a page that talks about speed 3s
Yeah, kind of minorly the rust issue and carbon buildup, though that's from any direct injected car. Glad you like it man!
...I just think this is a lot of regurgitated information that was read but not investigated.
Unless you've done back to back to back pulls and immediately plan on shutting your car off as soon as you stop... Idling is one of the most inefficient states your engine can be in. Lack of oil pressure, which is what you believe idling will do.. get that oil out of hot places.. just heat soaks there even more. Even a short 1 mile drive of not beating on your car is enough for it to get the oil circulated out, and get everything to come back down in temperature. On cold starts, 'warming it up' is nothing more than 15-30 seconds. About as long as it takes to get situated and ready to drive.
It really isnt, and if you think you can start your car, warm it up for 30 seconds, then go off and do pulls hammering on it, then turn it off, and think that's ok, that's why there are so many people in the speed community who blow them up either not knowing what to do or thinking they know better.
Yes idleing is ineffeicent for an engine, but you gotta think that what you're saying is completely contradictory, yes idling is low oil pressure, but turning your car straight off, that's no oil pressure, that isn't moving the oil out, and the thing is you don't need high pressure to shift that oil out, you don't need the oil to be circulating as fast as it does when your at 6k rpm, it's unnessisary.
You don't seem to know what 'warming it up is' on a cold start it will never be a 30 second long event, it'll be more like 10 minutes, oil will never get upto temp and of the viscosity in 3o seconds like bruhhhhhhhhh
...so.. how long you been a mechanic? I've been one for just shy of 10 years, but please.. do enlighten me with your facebook wisdom.
Not sure where you got half of what you're saying here, maybe it's an utter lack of language comprehension, or maybe it's the plain fact you can't take constructive criticism.
Should probably delete that, because it looks like you're doing nothing but twisting my words into something that I.. well.. clearly didn't say.
Bruh you think it's safe to let a car warm up for 30 seconds then beat on it?
I get what you mean about letting it cool down, idle has low oil pressure, but the thing is turning your car off has no pressure, the oil is still sitting there burning out the seals, and you really don't need high pressure to flow the oil threw, it doesn't have to flow very fast.
I mean if you wanna beat on your car, not let it heat up or idle after driving hard, be my guess, maybe shelling out 1k for a new turbo doesn't bother you much, but it bothers a lot of people very much, and we want to do anything to stop that becoming a reality.
@@LifeOfTuners - You're going to sit here.. have a car channel.. and not understand the difference between 'warming up' and optimum operating temperatures.
Gtfo here, how do I block and forever avoid this channel.
Bruh your not making any sense, the point of warming up is to get it up to operating temp and minorly to get the oil to flow everywhere (though that takes jack time), I'm not saying you have to sit their idling for 10 mins, theirs always going to be people that look at it differently, cooling up and cooling down is important when enthusiastically driving a turboed car, you can believe differently that's your right, but if your gonna sit hear and say it's pointless, I'm sorry but it really isnt
Rust buckets
Literally a commercial a minute 🙄🙄
ARE YOU SURE ABOUT THAT!? 😆
I THINK SOO UHHHHH
Poor babies
Poor babies ☹️
1:19 or you can just rebuild the turbo... lol
That is right mb 😭
yeah I went zoom zoom boom
Good choice 🌟
All Performance Cars lmao I blew a hole the size of a golf ball in my block
That is far from ideal 😳
Una basura, tengo un 6 mps y tengo ganas de vender esa mierda, falla mas que una escopeta de feria. Corre poco para lo que gasta. Una mierda.
No hablo español, así que voy a usar el traductor de Google. El problema es probablemente el mantenimiento, tienes que encargarte de él, entonces será confiable
(Disliked for language and volume spikes).
Ah yes language spikes
Is that all, I think I'll buy a Toyota.
B o r i n g 😂
Nothing like stealing all those content creators videos and then chopping them up and then adding your lame commentry..
I now ask for permission first before I post them on UA-cam, you can find their work linked in the description and they're name tagged on screen, it's something many people do, and theirs nothing wrong with it if the owner knows, and I think you'll find that the most value and most important part of the video, is actually commentary and the value I bring not as much the visuals, people click on the video to learn about the subject, not just to watch the visuals, and it really isn't lame, people seem to enjoy it, I'm getting good feedback. Now reply with what you think, I bet you won't cos youve been proven
Haha just clicked on your prof, seen your the only person who talks shit about my videos, if you don't like them, cool, just don't watch them, idk why you come back? Have a good day Sean
Fuck you and your dad sean
@@juice610 ahaha made me laugh, thanks bro