Excellent in depth tutorial. I have this rc and wouldn't know where to start if anything happened to the gears or diffs. This put my worries to rest. Thank you.
This kit totally stripped my brass motor gear and the rear aluminum diff. I thought this would make the car more durable and save money but that was not the case. Also it made the car louder and less smooth. Went back to all plastic drivetrain. Yes the plastic wears too but it is cheap and easy to stock. Until a full STEEL kit comes out (gears, motor pinion, and diff) plastic is still the way to go. To be fair I did not test this kit with plastic diffs and plastic motor pinion. My intent was an all metal drivetrain and it failed.
The gear mesh can be really tight and I don't have much confidence in their QC either. I guess I'm glad I have the Atomic diff that I can adjust the mesh. The motor is a tad too close on the spur too so I think that's what stripped your gear.
I believe it was eBay or wish it’s been a while. I’ve been running my p929 with plastic diffs and they hold out for a while it’s the internal gears that I’m having strip now
Very helpful videos I ordered some metal upgrades and cancelled after watching your budget touring car series. I've 2 k989 one drift one grip. And ordered good upgrades with the refund 👌 Metal ball diffs long drive shafts hard tyres on alloy rim. Metal servo with extended arm. Metal engine mount carbon chassis. Car 2 so far just has large alloy wheels glued with homemade inserts ( great on tarmac) and on carpet
I have a full metal build except the drive I needed this soooooo much for a true full metal ty ty ty ty ty love all the vids man soooooo much TEACHING U HAV DONE THANK U!!!!
Always supurb videos from you.I just got one of these and it already has metal pinion gears, possibly they have upgraded it. Also had a heatsink now on the side of the motor, right at the end of the chassis.
@@BeaversHobby i ended up converting it to rwd 😂 and no issues aside from rear angle 📐 of the tires point inward your videos definitely have helped with this thing still need to make the arms like you did with the plastic ones adjustable basically
I love these gears just be cautious I noticed one of mine has stripped its teeth they will get worn down but they last so much longer than the stock gears they mesh great with the plastic diffs and the teeth on the plastic diffs won’t strip surprisingly
Longer CVD will allow this car to use Mini-Z AWD differentials so it benefits both touring and drifting. For touring you can use any Mini-Z AWD compatible ball differential from Atomic AMZ and GLA, the latter is a great diff. For drifting you can use front one way and it'll give the car handbrake effect (when you break the rear wheels will lock but the front wheels will continue to roll). One way can will also make the car turn in more aggressively.
@Beaver's Hobby Okay then, I will go ahead and buy some. Thank you for taking the time to answer. I really appreciate that. You have another new sub now 😉
Hi great content just bought one. I have a question. There are four of us and we all want to race these trucks indoors. Will the radios interfere with each other? In other words will one controller control two of the same cars?
Don't worry. It's 2.4GHz so you can run multiple cars at the same time. Just need to turn the cars on and bind them one at a time (move the steering until they connect).
There seem to be a new revision of the K989 because the pinion that contact the differential is now metal as default. Now, the only plastic gear on the K989 is the one that the motor drive p/s: even thought the pinion are made of metal they still bent like crazy because of the tight gear mesh yet another p/s: my k989 is currently broken bc the gears inside the servo broke and now the servo can't hold the wheel direction
Yes, these will damage the stock plastic diffs even faster than the original pinion gears. However use AMZ/Mini-Z/Mini-Q diffs which are much more durable and still holding up well.
If you will replace the diffs for better quality you will most likely need the long CVD like this bit.ly/3m1i4bd . Then you can use any differential from Mini-Z AWD (look in a Kyosho dealer near you), Atomic AMZ, GL Racing GLA or even Mini-Q. The Mini-Q one is not as smooth as the others but probably easier to find. There's also a set like this but the quality control of the diff is a bit dodgy so you might get one that's not very smooth www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003853931282.html . It'll work though.
It's on narrow right now. I noticed that I could push the lower arms in a bit more so that made it perfect narrow chassis. The servo position needed a bit of adjustment too so just steer it to full lock and move it back and forth to get the ackerman you want.
Hey I do own these metal gears. I've grabbed 3 sets. Each set the bearings are to loose on the shaft. Eventually the wobble eats the diffs. Do you have this issue?
Cool maybe they tweaked the original design. I've had my set for a good min. Mine happened within 5 minutes. Wound up using nylon washers and epoxy to steady them. Now they run good.
Hi Beaver's Hobby, from all the extensive 1/28 platforms that you have, which would you recommend if you only have half the budget of a Mini-Z? Thanks in advance.
Atomic AMZ comes to mind first. It's a great entry-level kit especially because it is a race proven chassis. The trouble is AMZ is a kit car so you'll have to get the electronics separately and if you don't already have a transmitter and a charger, the price could go to the same as a Mini-Z (but you'll get a much better car). To keep the price low, WLtoys K989 or 284131 with some upgrades will work great already.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you so much, I already have K989, then i will just proceed upgrading my K989. It's so great that you respond your fans, keep it up!
No, you can't. Even if you use the carbon plate and cut the shaft short them replace the battery with a smaller one, this car is still an ultra wide format so most of 94mm bodies won't fit anyway.
Hi, my motor pinion got destroyed by the metal gears. I tried to pull it down from the axle, there is no screw, so with force. The whole axle came from the motor. Is it possible you can't replace the pinion without destroying the motor?
@@ThePivo79 The original one is 17T, there's also 15T in the bag that came with the car too. Don't worry. It'll fit. You will have to move the motor in a bit close to the spur to make it mesh well. Still, if the spur grinded up against the original gear, a smaller one might fit better.
Oh, I forgot about the bag, will check. Is there also a pinion pusher? Or how would you put that 15t on that axle if you have the puller? Puller costs around 20 bucks here. I hope the new pinyin will have a screw and the axis a flat end.
@@ThePivo79 Puller is only to pull the metal gear out. With plastic gear you can push it in by hand (place the gear on the table/floor then push the motor in from the back) and use a flat head screwdriver to push it out.
Mini-Z 98mm bodies will work with this car. Here's the old guide. ua-cam.com/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/v-deo.html This is the current best body I tried that works. Camaro and also Dodge Hellcat. ua-cam.com/video/U9V3N055nqE/v-deo.html
@@BeaversHobby thanks for that, I was wondering if mini-z would fit, but I was aiming at your cover photo. There some nice shells, how does one get one of those lol
R34, no. It is 94mm wheelbase narrow body but WLtoys is 98mm wide chassis. AMG GT3 on the other hand might need a bit of modification to lower the front shock tower to make the body fit. Here's the guide. ua-cam.com/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/v-deo.html
hello Beaver’s hobby I am about to make purchases and need your help.. I have 284131 and have already ordered one blue aluminium upgrade kit which includes servo connection rods/arm wheel cups wheels and connection rods for them…., however I wish to order the metal drive train and gears, and 2 metal diff…..PLEASE which diffs are best for this upgrade, I will go to bangood or Ebay, are the blue aluminium ball joints on bangood bad ???? Thank you for all your Great detailed vids your skills are amazing!!!
The diffs labelled for WLtoys are all gamble , so far I have the best experience with red and blue aluminium ball differentials. They slip a bit and need to be adjusted constantly but they are relatively smooth. The aluminium kit is also mixed result so it's up to luck.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you Very Much , I will have to take some risk… what is in your opinion the best RTR RC with quality aluminium construction , something nice and fast like the 284131 ? Im going through your vids and learning , you may save me some time… I want the best Rc but no kyosho not fast enough ?? I want what the 284131 and k989 are trying to be with the upgrades ?? Because ultimately this 284131 is looking like its gonna be expensive and time consuming to complete, I will do it though because I have already invested nearly $200 in it….. but ide like to also buy something else better!!
@@charliemaddock3459 As of now there's no solid full aluminium chassis with good QC that I know of. There's Ruhazn 530 ua-cam.com/video/NxQBRrWeAbY/v-deo.html which I tested and got good results but some got a non-working car so the QC is ropy as usual. Another car is Zero-Z DZ-01 which is on Aliexpress. I don't know much but it looks interesting. To be honest full aluminium some times can hinder the car because of the weight and poor construction so I suggest keeping the chassis plastic and it might last longer. Don't upgrade the chassis itself but only the consumables like gear, diff, wheels and tyres and in the extreme case change the electronics. These can be moved to a better chassis, except the metal pinions of course.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks agin for the advice , I will complete the 284131 upgrades and see how I like the results and go from there. Zero Z-DZ-01 looks like what I was trying to describe… maybe that one next …Thanks , maybe you buy Z-DZ-01 first and review and mod hahah than I can be sure ……...
@@charliemaddock3459 I'll try. The price is quite alright but I can't get anything from Aliexpress at the moment and the import tax is just too much. I'll need to find a workaround somehow.
Hi Beaver. How is the gears holding up with the installed metal set? I ordered the aluminum diffs that you recommended to me with this metal gearset as well. Hope the all metal driveline works out good.
Full metal will last really long. So far mine still working perfectly without anything wearing down. The thing is the diffs I use are of much better quality than WLtoys' part. In the front it's the (very old) Mini-Q ball diff. In the back I have the Atomic AMZ ball diff which is pretty much a racing grade part.
@@BioBlaz3 I usually recommend Sinohobby ball diff because it was easy to find and cheap. Nowadays, not so much. The differences are - The aluminium diff (the one that's easiest to find) has mixed quality control and some might not work well. The lock nut is alright but could get loose over time and it's hard to adjust because it uses standard M2 lock nut. And because it uses standard bearing inside the diff needs to be pretty tight to work. - The Mini-Q diff is almost like the aluminium diff except it is plastic and has better nut for adjustment. The tolerance is also better and the gear is less likely to destroy the centre shaft pinion gear. - AMZ diff or any racing-grade diff for that matter is the best way to use because they use thrust bearing so the diff will work for all the setups from the least resistance to very tight. The problem; they are expensive. 2 Diffs cost as much as the car.
I want to upgrade mine to brushless. I'll use for drift and touring (short straight), which motor should i buy? 3500 kV or 5500 kV? Dasmikro v3 is a good ESC?
3500KV is about the same as the original motor so if you want to increase the speed too then 5500KV is the one to get. Generally 5500KV is balance between touring and drifting as it gives good enough torque and high speed so I recommend it if you want to do both. DasMikro V3 ESC is really good. It uses Hobbywing programming so you can use a Hobbywing programming card too if you have one already.
@@danielkingo1602 Not really, the original servo is already good. Just replace it with the metal gear version or AFRC D1802MG when you break the original one. If you want to upgrade it the best one is AGF A11CLS or AFRC D2114TG-S.
Sorry to hear that. At least it's easy and cheap to find a replacement. You can search for "plastic gears set" like this www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004968457321.html or this www.banggood.com/custlink/vGvp2YzsGS and use the pinion gears from it. The hole is 2mm and the gear pitch is mod 0.5 or 0.5M. The kit might come with 16T so it's 1 tooth smaller but it should work well considering your motor grinded up against the metal spur at 17T.
Yes, it's still working and holding up well. I think part of it because I also uograded the diffs for Atomic ball diffs so the plastic is much more durable than the original ones.
@@ziineziine3504 I can't find the exact one I use anymore. It's probably discontinued and now there're only full racing-grade upgrade for these. You can also use Mini-Z standard AWD gear differential that you can find in your local Kyosho Mini-Z shops. Otherwise, if you are in the EU, GLA diff www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=906_841&products_id=9602 Or SZ diff www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1109_1256&products_id=18487 For US/NA www.kenonhobby.com/Atomic-SZ2-AMZ-Aluminium-Ball-Diff_p_49612.html There's also a cheaper one from Kyosho www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-MB010-Ball-Differential_p_44558.html You will need long CVD too. www.banggood.com/custlink/3DGHdZVLqQ
Hi, my car doesn't turn right properly. I use Upper horn hole, metal gears and drift wheels. ua-cam.com/video/7Tr8CA1mQrU/v-deo.html anyone with similar problem?
Seems like there is a problem with tyre contact. Maybe the wheels don't touch the ground evenly or even got pulled up when you steer. Check it by put the car on a flat surface then insert a piece of paper under the wheels. They all should feel the same tension. If any wheel feels lighter than the rest you will have to insert M2 screw to the lower arms to adjust the ride height so the wheels sit in the ground evenly.
@@BeaversHobby a great idea! ua-cam.com/video/AbRPS9KADf0/v-deo.html maybe the plate by the suspension is little bit bend. Will check tomorrow, to much beers tonight. Thanks man!!!
It's the mod 0.5 gear. I've tried some of the plastic gears I have it they work... sort of. The gear pitch on the spur doesn't have good tolerance but they'll work.
![[Quick Review] WLtoys 284010 - All improvements from previous versions](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9AkwHF-D-zI/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Quick Review] WLtoys 284010 - All improvements from previous versions](/img/tr.png)
He makes the best videos! Hmmm 🤔 Like the teacher you always wished you had in school. 😎
Excellent in depth tutorial. I have this rc and wouldn't know where to start if anything happened to the gears or diffs. This put my worries to rest. Thank you.
This kit totally stripped my brass motor gear and the rear aluminum diff. I thought this would make the car more durable and save money but that was not the case. Also it made the car louder and less smooth. Went back to all plastic drivetrain. Yes the plastic wears too but it is cheap and easy to stock. Until a full STEEL kit comes out (gears, motor pinion, and diff) plastic is still the way to go. To be fair I did not test this kit with plastic diffs and plastic motor pinion. My intent was an all metal drivetrain and it failed.
The gear mesh can be really tight and I don't have much confidence in their QC either. I guess I'm glad I have the Atomic diff that I can adjust the mesh. The motor is a tad too close on the spur too so I think that's what stripped your gear.
Thank you youj for your sweet, kind and informative videos. I want to give you a big hug! Love you!
Got these gears a few months back and still no more stripped gears but they are pretty loud with the metal diffs. Thanks for the video 👍
Where’d you buy frime
I thought I was messing something up it so LOUD I WAS SCARED
I believe it was eBay or wish it’s been a while. I’ve been running my p929 with plastic diffs and they hold out for a while it’s the internal gears that I’m having strip now
Very helpful videos I ordered some metal upgrades and cancelled after watching your budget touring car series. I've 2 k989 one drift one grip. And ordered good upgrades with the refund 👌
Metal ball diffs long drive shafts hard tyres on alloy rim. Metal servo with extended arm. Metal engine mount carbon chassis.
Car 2 so far just has large alloy wheels glued with homemade inserts ( great on tarmac) and on carpet
Ove had one installed for maybe 20 packs. That fist gear off the motor pinion moves front to back a little. Seems like i should have glued it.
I have a full metal build except the drive I needed this soooooo much for a true full metal ty ty ty ty ty love all the vids man soooooo much TEACHING U HAV DONE THANK U!!!!
Do you think this will wear the stock diffs fast? And do you think the drivetrain will be less sticky?
Yes, it will wear the original diffs even faster than stock. And it will not help the sticky drivetrain either. That one is from the diffs.
Always supurb videos from you.I just got one of these and it already has metal pinion gears, possibly they have upgraded it. Also had a heatsink now on the side of the motor, right at the end of the chassis.
Mine came and have horrible friction one piece was slightly bent I believe I ordered another set hoping better results
Quality control is almost nonexistent for these things, sorry you get one that's not working. Maybe you can file a claim for defective product.
@@BeaversHobby i ended up converting it to rwd 😂 and no issues aside from rear angle 📐 of the tires point inward your videos definitely have helped with this thing still need to make the arms like you did with the plastic ones adjustable basically
Hi, how did you remove that stubborn pinion gear from the original motor. I can't seem to get it off, even with heat.
You have to use a gear puller.
I love these gears just be cautious I noticed one of mine has stripped its teeth they will get worn down but they last so much longer than the stock gears they mesh great with the plastic diffs and the teeth on the plastic diffs won’t strip surprisingly
So they still strip even with metal gears?
@Beaver's Hobby the longer 25mm CVD is meant for touring or drifting set up? What are the benefits like? I am into drifting. Thank you.
Longer CVD will allow this car to use Mini-Z AWD differentials so it benefits both touring and drifting. For touring you can use any Mini-Z AWD compatible ball differential from Atomic AMZ and GLA, the latter is a great diff. For drifting you can use front one way and it'll give the car handbrake effect (when you break the rear wheels will lock but the front wheels will continue to roll). One way can will also make the car turn in more aggressively.
Thank you for your videos!
What a great channel.
Could you do a comparison with a brushed motor? like 88t 66t 030 with the original?
I'll try to find them but please don't get your hopes up. A lot of things are not available here.
@@BeaversHobby Ok my friend thank you very much, you are the best.
The link for the CVD's you posted are 25mm, but I thought you said they need to be 27mm long.
They changed the description but the last time I bought it, it's still the same length.
@Beaver's Hobby Okay then, I will go ahead and buy some. Thank you for taking the time to answer. I really appreciate that. You have another new sub now 😉
@@SeekingTheVerdants My pleasure. Best of luck with the project!
Hi great content just bought one. I have a question. There are four of us and we all want to race these trucks indoors. Will the radios interfere with each other? In other words will one controller control two of the same cars?
Don't worry. It's 2.4GHz so you can run multiple cars at the same time. Just need to turn the cars on and bind them one at a time (move the steering until they connect).
There seem to be a new revision of the K989 because the pinion that contact the differential is now metal as default. Now, the only plastic gear on the K989 is the one that the motor drive
p/s: even thought the pinion are made of metal they still bent like crazy because of the tight gear mesh
yet another p/s: my k989 is currently broken bc the gears inside the servo broke and now the servo can't hold the wheel direction
thank you for sharing your knowledge
will they make damage to the stock plastic diffs? do i have to get the metal diffs too?
Yes, these will damage the stock plastic diffs even faster than the original pinion gears.
However use AMZ/Mini-Z/Mini-Q diffs which are much more durable and still holding up well.
Hi Beaver, I couldn't find a way to email you, so I tried to post a question here, but I don't see it now. Did you happen to see it? Thanks!
I didn't see the new question either. UA-cam probably blocked it if it had a link.
Anyway, here's my email: beavershobby@gmail.com .
@Beaver's Hobby Thank you, Beaver.
Drove it for a couple days and my diffs are absolutely wrecked any good ball diffs for this model that I don’t have to take apart and sand down?
If you will replace the diffs for better quality you will most likely need the long CVD like this bit.ly/3m1i4bd .
Then you can use any differential from Mini-Z AWD (look in a Kyosho dealer near you), Atomic AMZ, GL Racing GLA or even Mini-Q. The Mini-Q one is not as smooth as the others but probably easier to find. There's also a set like this but the quality control of the diff is a bit dodgy so you might get one that's not very smooth www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003853931282.html . It'll work though.
Great video beaver, as always! Keep up the great content!
In time they will not right away
The legend returned. Also what is your setup front linkages wise for your drift art 2.5? Are you running narrow or wide?
It's on narrow right now. I noticed that I could push the lower arms in a bit more so that made it perfect narrow chassis. The servo position needed a bit of adjustment too so just steer it to full lock and move it back and forth to get the ackerman you want.
Hey I do own these metal gears. I've grabbed 3 sets. Each set the bearings are to loose on the shaft. Eventually the wobble eats the diffs. Do you have this issue?
Not yet. So far so good on mine.
Cool maybe they tweaked the original design. I've had my set for a good min. Mine happened within 5 minutes. Wound up using nylon washers and epoxy to steady them. Now they run good.
It's been a few months, this video is great but how's it holding up?
To be honest I haven't been playing it that much but it's still holding up much better than plastic gears.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the response!
I bought a set of these and the larger of the two spurs gears has a very loose fit on the pinion while the smaller is perfect fit. The QC is awful. 🤣
Hi Beaver's Hobby, from all the extensive 1/28 platforms that you have, which would you recommend if you only have half the budget of a Mini-Z? Thanks in advance.
Atomic AMZ comes to mind first. It's a great entry-level kit especially because it is a race proven chassis. The trouble is AMZ is a kit car so you'll have to get the electronics separately and if you don't already have a transmitter and a charger, the price could go to the same as a Mini-Z (but you'll get a much better car).
To keep the price low, WLtoys K989 or 284131 with some upgrades will work great already.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you so much, I already have K989, then i will just proceed upgrading my K989. It's so great that you respond your fans, keep it up!
@@thliaw My pleasure. Best of luck with the project!
How can you make the wltoys k989 94mm wheelbase I am desperate
No, you can't. Even if you use the carbon plate and cut the shaft short them replace the battery with a smaller one, this car is still an ultra wide format so most of 94mm bodies won't fit anyway.
Hi, my motor pinion got destroyed by the metal gears. I tried to pull it down from the axle, there is no screw, so with force. The whole axle came from the motor. Is it possible you can't replace the pinion without destroying the motor?
You will need a gear puller to remove the motor pinion without destroying it.
@@BeaversHobby thanks man! Ordered a new motor and a 15t pinion. Hope it will fit.
@@ThePivo79 The original one is 17T, there's also 15T in the bag that came with the car too. Don't worry. It'll fit. You will have to move the motor in a bit close to the spur to make it mesh well. Still, if the spur grinded up against the original gear, a smaller one might fit better.
Oh, I forgot about the bag, will check. Is there also a pinion pusher? Or how would you put that 15t on that axle if you have the puller? Puller costs around 20 bucks here. I hope the new pinyin will have a screw and the axis a flat end.
@@ThePivo79 Puller is only to pull the metal gear out. With plastic gear you can push it in by hand (place the gear on the table/floor then push the motor in from the back) and use a flat head screwdriver to push it out.
Can we use this set also for the 530 28 kit?
The spur gear is on a different position so I don't think you can use it. Besides, 530 has pretty good quality gear so there's no need to change.
Can you replace motor pinion gear ? Thanks
Yes, you'll need a gear puller for that.
@@BeaversHobby Thankyou.What is the best for Wltoys 1/28 plastic gears or metal gears ? What is the best for Wltoys 1/28 plastic diff or metal diff ?
Hi could you let me kno where I can get come cool shells for my rc cars please as I'm using the stock shell atm
Mini-Z 98mm bodies will work with this car. Here's the old guide. ua-cam.com/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/v-deo.html
This is the current best body I tried that works. Camaro and also Dodge Hellcat.
ua-cam.com/video/U9V3N055nqE/v-deo.html
@@BeaversHobby thanks for that, I was wondering if mini-z would fit, but I was aiming at your cover photo. There some nice shells, how does one get one of those lol
@@cDotScript Any Kyosho Mini-Z dealer/distributor should have them.
How do you take off the motor gear?
You'll need a gear puller to do it.
It works with the long wheelbase?
Yes, it works. It comes with the gears for 98mm and 102mm wheelbase.
It won't work if you use the custom chassis that's longer than 102mm though.
@@BeaversHobby you are the best.
nice video nice tipps
do you know if i can fit miniz body ( nissan skyline gtr r34 or mercedes amg gt3) on wltoys k989?
THANK YOU
R34, no. It is 94mm wheelbase narrow body but WLtoys is 98mm wide chassis.
AMG GT3 on the other hand might need a bit of modification to lower the front shock tower to make the body fit. Here's the guide. ua-cam.com/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/v-deo.html
Thank you!!
Appreciate your response
hello Beaver’s hobby I am about to make purchases and need your help.. I have 284131 and have already ordered one blue aluminium upgrade kit which includes servo connection rods/arm wheel cups wheels and connection rods for them…., however I wish to order the metal drive train and gears, and 2 metal diff…..PLEASE which diffs are best for this upgrade, I will go to bangood or Ebay, are the blue aluminium ball joints on bangood bad ???? Thank you for all your Great detailed vids your skills are amazing!!!
The diffs labelled for WLtoys are all gamble , so far I have the best experience with red and blue aluminium ball differentials. They slip a bit and need to be adjusted constantly but they are relatively smooth. The aluminium kit is also mixed result so it's up to luck.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you Very Much , I will have to take some risk… what is in your opinion the best RTR RC with quality aluminium construction , something nice and fast like the 284131 ? Im going through your vids and learning , you may save me some time… I want the best Rc but no kyosho not fast enough ?? I want what the 284131 and k989 are trying to be with the upgrades ?? Because ultimately this 284131 is looking like its gonna be expensive and time consuming to complete, I will do it though because I have already invested nearly $200 in it….. but ide like to also buy something else better!!
@@charliemaddock3459 As of now there's no solid full aluminium chassis with good QC that I know of. There's Ruhazn 530 ua-cam.com/video/NxQBRrWeAbY/v-deo.html which I tested and got good results but some got a non-working car so the QC is ropy as usual.
Another car is Zero-Z DZ-01 which is on Aliexpress. I don't know much but it looks interesting.
To be honest full aluminium some times can hinder the car because of the weight and poor construction so I suggest keeping the chassis plastic and it might last longer. Don't upgrade the chassis itself but only the consumables like gear, diff, wheels and tyres and in the extreme case change the electronics. These can be moved to a better chassis, except the metal pinions of course.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks agin for the advice , I will complete the 284131 upgrades and see how I like the results and go from there. Zero Z-DZ-01 looks like what I was trying to describe… maybe that one next …Thanks , maybe you buy Z-DZ-01 first and review and mod hahah than I can be sure ……...
@@charliemaddock3459 I'll try. The price is quite alright but I can't get anything from Aliexpress at the moment and the import tax is just too much. I'll need to find a workaround somehow.
These are great videos, very in depth.
Man that pinion upgrade kit is half the price of the car! I see aliexpress has a few kits a lot cheaper.
Hi Beaver.
How is the gears holding up with the installed metal set? I ordered the aluminum diffs that you recommended to me with this metal gearset as well. Hope the all metal driveline works out good.
Full metal will last really long.
So far mine still working perfectly without anything wearing down. The thing is the diffs I use are of much better quality than WLtoys' part. In the front it's the (very old) Mini-Q ball diff. In the back I have the Atomic AMZ ball diff which is pretty much a racing grade part.
@@BeaversHobby In another vid you recommended the Sinohobby ball diff from banggood. What’s the difference between the 3?
@@BioBlaz3 I usually recommend Sinohobby ball diff because it was easy to find and cheap. Nowadays, not so much.
The differences are
- The aluminium diff (the one that's easiest to find) has mixed quality control and some might not work well. The lock nut is alright but could get loose over time and it's hard to adjust because it uses standard M2 lock nut. And because it uses standard bearing inside the diff needs to be pretty tight to work.
- The Mini-Q diff is almost like the aluminium diff except it is plastic and has better nut for adjustment. The tolerance is also better and the gear is less likely to destroy the centre shaft pinion gear.
- AMZ diff or any racing-grade diff for that matter is the best way to use because they use thrust bearing so the diff will work for all the setups from the least resistance to very tight. The problem; they are expensive. 2 Diffs cost as much as the car.
Will these fit in the A252?
Unfortunately, no.
I want to upgrade mine to brushless. I'll use for drift and touring (short straight), which motor should i buy? 3500 kV or 5500 kV? Dasmikro v3 is a good ESC?
3500KV is about the same as the original motor so if you want to increase the speed too then 5500KV is the one to get. Generally 5500KV is balance between touring and drifting as it gives good enough torque and high speed so I recommend it if you want to do both.
DasMikro V3 ESC is really good. It uses Hobbywing programming so you can use a Hobbywing programming card too if you have one already.
@@BeaversHobby Thks! Very helpful. Did you recommend to upgrade the servo?
@@danielkingo1602 Not really, the original servo is already good. Just replace it with the metal gear version or AFRC D1802MG when you break the original one. If you want to upgrade it the best one is AGF A11CLS or AFRC D2114TG-S.
@@BeaversHobby thanks you so much. You are the BEST!
@@danielkingo1602 My pleasure. Best of luck with the project!
👍👍👍
Steel with steel. Never steel with aluminum. Plastic with plastic
Well I bought this and the metal tour up the motor gear Brass piece so yeah cars broke now
Sorry to hear that. At least it's easy and cheap to find a replacement. You can search for "plastic gears set" like this www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004968457321.html or this www.banggood.com/custlink/vGvp2YzsGS and use the pinion gears from it. The hole is 2mm and the gear pitch is mod 0.5 or 0.5M.
The kit might come with 16T so it's 1 tooth smaller but it should work well considering your motor grinded up against the metal spur at 17T.
Awesome video
please make a site selling rtr drift you build budget build ❤
I don't know about that but I'll keep in mind.
very nice job 👍
Only drawback I've had so far is that it's way noisier
Dang this kit is so overpriced
Yeah its only half the price of the car 🤣
Est ce que sa fonctionne toujours aujourd'hui ?
Yes, it's still working and holding up well. I think part of it because I also uograded the diffs for Atomic ball diffs so the plastic is much more durable than the original ones.
@@BeaversHobby Ok avez vous les liens des différentiels atomique ? Pour que je puisse les acheter merci de votre retour
@@ziineziine3504 I can't find the exact one I use anymore. It's probably discontinued and now there're only full racing-grade upgrade for these.
You can also use Mini-Z standard AWD gear differential that you can find in your local Kyosho Mini-Z shops.
Otherwise, if you are in the EU, GLA diff www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=906_841&products_id=9602
Or SZ diff www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1109_1256&products_id=18487
For US/NA www.kenonhobby.com/Atomic-SZ2-AMZ-Aluminium-Ball-Diff_p_49612.html
There's also a cheaper one from Kyosho www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-MB010-Ball-Differential_p_44558.html
You will need long CVD too. www.banggood.com/custlink/3DGHdZVLqQ
@@BeaversHobby Ok merci et y'a t'il l'axe central de transmission mini z ou autre ? Merci pour votre retour
@@ziineziine3504 The centre shaft from Mini-Z doesn't work with WLtoys.
Hi, my car doesn't turn right properly. I use Upper horn hole, metal gears and drift wheels. ua-cam.com/video/7Tr8CA1mQrU/v-deo.html anyone with similar problem?
Seems like there is a problem with tyre contact. Maybe the wheels don't touch the ground evenly or even got pulled up when you steer.
Check it by put the car on a flat surface then insert a piece of paper under the wheels. They all should feel the same tension. If any wheel feels lighter than the rest you will have to insert M2 screw to the lower arms to adjust the ride height so the wheels sit in the ground evenly.
@@BeaversHobby a great idea! ua-cam.com/video/AbRPS9KADf0/v-deo.html maybe the plate by the suspension is little bit bend. Will check tomorrow, to much beers tonight. Thanks man!!!
What metal motor gear fits this? I’m using the rocket mini motor and every motor gear I’ve ordered won’t work with this.
It's the mod 0.5 gear. I've tried some of the plastic gears I have it they work... sort of. The gear pitch on the spur doesn't have good tolerance but they'll work.