Bro not many people are taking time of their day to provide information as organized and helpful as this. Been following you for a while and excited to see these projects coming together.
You are a saint. I’ve built my whole entire engine off of your videos and I can’t thank you enough… finishing assembly this weekend and install next. Can’t wait to hear it running again.
Thanks for this video Tanner. Currently swapping an ej20x being converted to single AVCS to go on my ‘05 OBXT. I will need to go through these measurements. Your good energy is always contagious Haha.
Dude, thank you so much for this video. You just saved me $3000! Lol, it showed me what I’ve been doing wrong on my heads. I have had this issue with valves bending and I couldn’t figure out why. I didn’t realize the valve system was solid, not hydraulic. SMH…
Started doing this today on my freshly rebuilt heads. The only thing I’m curious about is if it matters how you put the feeler gauge in. If I go for it when I’m squared up with the cam lobes I get something like .015 for example. But if I go to measure at an angle it might be something like .028.
Great video, I am just wondering how do you know what size bucket to buy to start taking your lash measurements? I know you mentioned order the smallest size bucket for the measurements. Would I look at all the buckets I currently have, find the smallest one and order a new one and start taking my lash measurements from that? Any pointers would be helpful, thanks in advance
Found it yay. Thanks so much for this. Would it OK to order x1 bucket smallest. And keep torque down caps of cams n measure? Is it OK to keep torquing down that many times?
What cams are this just bought some BC stage 2 cams valve lash recommendation says .006 on int and .008 on exhaust just wondering why yours set at .008 and .010 thanks!! Cool videos man!!
I had the 272s, not sure what stage they'd call them but I also found confliting info because that's what I thought lash needed to be as well. Contacted BC and mine ended up needing to be .010 and .008 🙏
My 2AZFE engine ticks so I measured the valve clearance. I can use .305mm filler gauge to slide under three of my intake valves, since specs indicates 0.19mm to 0.29mm, do you think these can cause the ticking noise? they are out of specs, but by not much.
So, I did all my measurements and two of sizes I need aren't available. I need a 4.61 and a 4.63. 4.609 was one measurement, so do I just grab a 4.60? 4.6324 was the other so do I round down to a 4.62?
If you never taken your camshafts off only valve.covers would this still be a problem? I've been having a random misfires for a few months now, I changed everything I could think off. I read a faulty knock sensor would cause it as well that's my next step I'm hoping this fixes my issue I hate CELs
It's not too likely, but it's not super hard to check them, and should be done periodically. For a built engine you don't need to disassemble anything, just pop the cam covers off and measure them all.
Thanks for the content. Almost all my clearances are out of range by about 0.01 or 0.02mm. Exhausts are too tight & intakes too loose. 0.279-0.305 exhaust & 0.254 intakes. FML 🤦♂️
when my shop was open at any given time I would have between 850 and 900 shimless buckets in stock all in a large labeled rack.... I was constantly building engines and/or cylinder heads work and after dealing with it that way for years I bought a jig for my mill to be able to precisely machine the bucket to the desired size and then I would lazer mark the bottom with the new size... I only had to keep 1 part number in stock and I would just custom cut all the buckets and I never had a single problem with anything doing it that way even on over 1k hp engines..... I'd never go back to doing it the old way ..... I mean if you only do it every once in a while ok I see that but when you are doing multiple heads everyday...hell no never again lmao Side note: even though I have had to do it in a pinch machining the buckets to get the clearance u need is not a good idea because of the hardness of the area of the bucket that contacts the valve is only so deep and that is the exact area that would be machined down and if you happen to go past the point where the metal is properly hardened that bucket will wear and/or mushroom out causing a ton of damage. I see alot of people and even shops doing that on the regular and that's not just dangerous but poor quality work imo I admit I have also done it myself but that was way before I was properly trained and I only ever took less than a thou off max but it was still not the correct procedure my car or not lol
Does it matter what orientation of the lobes before u measure the lash? I never done it or even moved a cam freely in the journals. But I'll be doing this soon thanks to ur videos :) So yeah when u put the bucket in, cams n caps on. One lobe will be facing up and other down. So when u come around to the lobe that facing up do u need to orientate the lobe in any way? Or measuring the gap regardless of where the lobe is positioned ok?
Yep. Mark them with which valve they come off of, so that you can get them back in in the right order. I number mine I1.1, I1.2, I2.1, I2.2, E1.1, E1.2, etc. Measure your clearances afterwards to make sure they're still all good.
Duration is based off of the camshaft not the bucket! Basically how long the valve stays open! The bucket ensures proper clearance between the lobe and the bucket ensuring the valve is opening and closing safely and properly without too much friction! Good video tho 🤙
Hey I’m in the process of determining if I will be replacing my clutch on my 2011 wrx. Car still runs but when I go to accelerate the cars does not go up in speed as it use to. It will rev higher RPMs. I’m assuming this is my clutch going out. Any suggestions and recommendations appreciated.
@@Smeedia have you received anything from USPS lately? There’s an embargo for Texas zip codes here because of the weather and it sucks lol. Hopefully nothing gets delayed for your build.
Does that mean you have to buy two sets of new buckets? One set to be able to correctly measure them and then once all your measurements are finished another set that are the correct sizes?
Just wanted to point out that converting the imperial to metric measurement does not give you a more accurate reading. The number on the gauge is the only correct number, you can’t add sig figs to a tool like that. Really enjoyed the video though, thanks for all of this content!
I guess you could mic your old buckets and put them all back in for the measurements and math to save you bolting down the cam caps 16 times. There's a lot of potential to kill a thread with all that unnecessary tightening.
This doesn't make sense, I use this equation and get a bucket that is smaller then the first one that was in. That's just gonna increase the lash not shrink it and account for any cam wear.
What a pain in the ass way to figure out your cam follower size. Check out how you determine the correct shim for a shim under bucket valve train for a motorcycle engine. Like a Suzuki. Seems cumbersome without a mic. If you can measure your old buckets. Then adding or subtracting clearance is much quicker. Not sure I splaned that OK 🤔.
I'll have to take a gander at how they're done, this has been the most accurate way I've found to verify and find lash. Buckets get expensive at $30 a piece 😅
I disagree I rather measure the camshaft followers (what you call buckets) instead of having to remove the camshaft 16 times instead N=T+(A-V) T- thickness of the old follower A- valve clearance measure N- thickness of the new follower V- desired valve clearance This way you only remove the follower once and if you can use o follower to bring another clearance to spec you can save money and reuse it….
That would be much quicker, but to be kn the safer side and not having a set of quality point mics, I had no way of validating that the measurements on the under side of the bucket were actually true sizes. If you do have the proper tools for that then by all means it would make it much easier
I agree with this method. A set of Micrometers aren't that expensive and personally, I think they're work the investment to eliminate any guesswork and save time.
Bro not many people are taking time of their day to provide information as organized and helpful as this. Been following you for a while and excited to see these projects coming together.
Thank you and trying to get the how to videos in while building this. Should be good to go next week 🔥🙏
You are a saint. I’ve built my whole entire engine off of your videos and I can’t thank you enough… finishing assembly this weekend and install next. Can’t wait to hear it running again.
Just used this method today and got my lash all dialed in. Thanks!
Glad it helped 🥳
Watching this engine being built is like moving art 🖼
🔥🙏😁
Best Subie channel out there. Just purchased my 06 sti and your videos have taught me so much!
Eyyy, congrats on the car! 😁
Thanks for this video Tanner. Currently swapping an ej20x being converted to single AVCS to go on my ‘05 OBXT. I will need to go through these measurements. Your good energy is always contagious Haha.
Dude, thank you so much for this video. You just saved me $3000! Lol, it showed me what I’ve been doing wrong on my heads. I have had this issue with valves bending and I couldn’t figure out why. I didn’t realize the valve system was solid, not hydraulic. SMH…
Glaf the the video helped! 🙏
Started doing this today on my freshly rebuilt heads. The only thing I’m curious about is if it matters how you put the feeler gauge in. If I go for it when I’m squared up with the cam lobes I get something like .015 for example. But if I go to measure at an angle it might be something like .028.
I’m asian but this math is too much for my brain man. Respect to you for knowing how to do this.
Lol its not too bad once you get into it 🔥😁
hardest calculation here is the conversion from standard to metric which can be avoided if you just used metric to begin with.
Been looking for a detailed video on how to do the valve lash. Thanks
Anytime! 😁
Learned a lot. So glad engines I work on have rocker arms. The buckets look like a pain in the butt.
Rocker arms definitely make life a little easier than these things 😅🔥
Thanks man I dropped all my buckets out and didn’t know how to put them back and I guess this is the way even though it’s gonna take a whole day
I learned something new again today. Thanks brother. 👌👌👌
Thank you! Alqays appreciate the support 🔥🙏
yes his phone password is about all I actually learned😅
🤣🤣🤣
Great video, I am just wondering how do you know what size bucket to buy to start taking your lash measurements? I know you mentioned order the smallest size bucket for the measurements. Would I look at all the buckets I currently have, find the smallest one and order a new one and start taking my lash measurements from that? Any pointers would be helpful, thanks in advance
Found it yay. Thanks so much for this.
Would it OK to order x1 bucket smallest. And keep torque down caps of cams n measure? Is it OK to keep torquing down that many times?
Yes that is okay, that is how I do it as well 🙏🙏
@@Smeedia nice one.
Folling your page n watching the 6 cylinder build. It something I always asked so can't believe u did it and shared it. U legend
What cams are this just bought some BC stage 2 cams valve lash recommendation says .006 on int and .008 on exhaust just wondering why yours set at .008 and .010 thanks!! Cool videos man!!
I had the 272s, not sure what stage they'd call them but I also found confliting info because that's what I thought lash needed to be as well. Contacted BC and mine ended up needing to be .010 and .008 🙏
My 2AZFE engine ticks so I measured the valve clearance. I can use .305mm filler gauge to slide under three of my intake valves, since specs indicates 0.19mm to 0.29mm, do you think these can cause the ticking noise? they are out of specs, but by not much.
Can you do video on a fa20 shim calculation?
Hi ,if using buckets with shims ,ex 35x25 x2.7 ,35mm is diammeter ,25mm long distance but 2.7mm? Best regards
Do I have to torque and measure 1 bucket at a time or can you insert all buckets and measure after torqueing once?
I’m getting .006-.007” on intake and .010” on exhaust. Is this too tight?
So, I did all my measurements and two of sizes I need aren't available. I need a 4.61 and a 4.63. 4.609 was one measurement, so do I just grab a 4.60? 4.6324 was the other so do I round down to a 4.62?
How did you know what spec to set everything to . Does it depend on what cams you get? Or it’s what you were told to ?
The lash measurements will be on thr cam card that comes with your cams 🙏
Thank you for the video. Always good to learn new ways! Also had to chuckle.....I have the same wipe-board from WGU....lol.
Lol its the ladies white board that I kidnap when needed 🔥😁
Awesome, been running this through my head for a while.
Thanks
Anytime! 🙏🔥
What machine shop you using for head rebuild vid?
Napa off of 96th and pacific 🙏
@@Smeedia thought you were joking. Checked there web. They do many suby around, you know of. Looking for somewhere different for my d25s.
They do a lot of subaru stuff, pretty quick turn around too
If you never taken your camshafts off only valve.covers would this still be a problem? I've been having a random misfires for a few months now, I changed everything I could think off. I read a faulty knock sensor would cause it as well that's my next step I'm hoping this fixes my issue I hate CELs
Someone said it could be your "buckets" but I never even touched the bolts to remove my camshafts
It's not too likely, but it's not super hard to check them, and should be done periodically. For a built engine you don't need to disassemble anything, just pop the cam covers off and measure them all.
Thanks for the content. Almost all my clearances are out of range by about 0.01 or 0.02mm. Exhausts are too tight & intakes too loose. 0.279-0.305 exhaust & 0.254 intakes. FML 🤦♂️
Valve lash is suuuuper annoying and $$$ to fix 😖 but the motor will appreciate you when done 🙏🙏
Switch the loose with the tight and remeasure , I did that and I was in the tolerances
when my shop was open at any given time I would have between 850 and 900 shimless buckets in stock all in a large labeled rack.... I was constantly building engines and/or cylinder heads work and after dealing with it that way for years I bought a jig for my mill to be able to precisely machine the bucket to the desired size and then I would lazer mark the bottom with the new size... I only had to keep 1 part number in stock and I would just custom cut all the buckets and I never had a single problem with anything doing it that way even on over 1k hp engines..... I'd never go back to doing it the old way .....
I mean if you only do it every once in a while ok I see that but when you are doing multiple heads everyday...hell no never again lmao
Side note: even though I have had to do it in a pinch machining the buckets to get the clearance u need is not a good idea because of the hardness of the area of the bucket that contacts the valve is only so deep and that is the exact area that would be machined down and if you happen to go past the point where the metal is properly hardened that bucket will wear and/or mushroom out causing a ton of damage. I see alot of people and even shops doing that on the regular and that's not just dangerous but poor quality work imo I admit I have also done it myself but that was way before I was properly trained and I only ever took less than a thou off max but it was still not the correct procedure my car or not lol
Does it matter what orientation of the lobes before u measure the lash? I never done it or even moved a cam freely in the journals. But I'll be doing this soon thanks to ur videos :)
So yeah when u put the bucket in, cams n caps on. One lobe will be facing up and other down. So when u come around to the lobe that facing up do u need to orientate the lobe in any way? Or measuring the gap regardless of where the lobe is positioned ok?
You need to measure against the base circle so yes, the lobe needs to be facing away from the valve. Rotate as you go.
Nice videos ma man I learned a lot on you videos what stage are those cams and what brand
They're stage 2 BC 272 Cams 🙏😁
@@Smeedia thank you for you response
You need to add Professor in front of Smeedia. Good stuff 👍🏻
😉😉😉
Dude this saved me so much time and money. Thank you so much for explaining this! You’re a fucking G
How big of a problem is it if one of my exhaust buckets has a clearance of .016 inches? (.0138 +- .008) on a new oem build.
Depends on what the bucket size is
Wow, some much great information. 👏 👍
🥳🥳🥳
Yo bro so if i remove buckets to take head to resurface is it okkay to re use same buckets when i get it back?
Yep. Mark them with which valve they come off of, so that you can get them back in in the right order. I number mine I1.1, I1.2, I2.1, I2.2, E1.1, E1.2, etc. Measure your clearances afterwards to make sure they're still all good.
Nice vid bud!
Thank you 🙌🔥
Is it possible anyone get a link that works to order the buckets?? This one is no longer working.
Good stuff brother!
Thank you! Hopefully helps some peeps out!
Duration is based off of the camshaft not the bucket! Basically how long the valve stays open! The bucket ensures proper clearance between the lobe and the bucket ensuring the valve is opening and closing safely and properly without too much friction! Good video tho 🤙
Hey I’m in the process of determining if I will be replacing my clutch on my 2011 wrx. Car still runs but when I go to accelerate the cars does not go up in speed as it use to. It will rev higher RPMs. I’m assuming this is my clutch going out. Any suggestions and recommendations appreciated.
Definitely the clutch, how much power are you looking to make?
@@Smeedia I don’t have any mods at the moment and not sure if I will get any for this car.
ACT makes a great clutch, I've been using their street series and love it
I literally guessed the correct gap before I saw this video lol. Lucky
Super lucky!
@@Smeedia have you received anything from USPS lately? There’s an embargo for Texas zip codes here because of the weather and it sucks lol. Hopefully nothing gets delayed for your build.
We're still getting mail, n9 delays up here thankfully.
Except with thr shipping on the EG33 that's been taking forever
Does that mean you have to buy two sets of new buckets? One set to be able to correctly measure them and then once all your measurements are finished another set that are the correct sizes?
I just buy a single .438 bucket to take all my measurements with 🙏
@@Smeedia Oh I see now, so one bucket to use for all the measurements and then a full set of buckets for each measurement. Thank you!
Thank you so much once again!
Hopefully this helps 😁
Hey Tanner question should I lift my car by the turbo?
Like to pull it from the car?!
@@Smeedia more so for an oil change. I have been lifting by the the frame behind the front tires.
To jack the car up? I always go off of the frame rails
@@Smeedia ok sweet that is where I have been jacking it up.
What would happen if you were to just leave a smaller one? I get a big one will hit but what would happen/how bad is a gap?
If the gap is too small you can run the cam flat
so do I want to order the smallest bucket available for the ej257 or the smallest bucket that came out of mine?
What all had changed with the heads?
@@Smeedia I just had the head surfaced since my head gasket blew. I don’t think the machine shop did anything else
"Buck it" and the horse you rode in on... Hahahahahahaha
🤣🤣🤣
Just wanted to point out that converting the imperial to metric measurement does not give you a more accurate reading. The number on the gauge is the only correct number, you can’t add sig figs to a tool like that.
Really enjoyed the video though, thanks for all of this content!
It makes sense to start with 4 new measure buckets so you dont have to take the cam loose each time
I guess you could mic your old buckets and put them all back in for the measurements and math to save you bolting down the cam caps 16 times.
There's a lot of potential to kill a thread with all that unnecessary tightening.
They're all too big, trust me would have used them If I could 😅🙏
is "thaow" thousands of an inch?
Yessir 🙏
Even though the bucket is marked, and came in a package with the correct part number on it...how do you know its 4.38 without measuring it.
Your valve lash would nkt be right 👀 but I've never had one that's off from the manufacturer.
what will happen if you used some of your old buckets, just curious
Nothing bad, just verify what the actual measurements are on the buckets to make sure they fit
Could you swap around buckets to same some money.?
If they're close and you can reuse them, yes you can. Just always verify measurements
8:50 is what you came for ;)
So close to the first start
Right on the cusp!
Awesome demonstration, I get it, what a time consuming process though
Definitely takes a while but saves a little bit of $$$ 🔥😅🙏
Late to this party but,, Subaru refers to the 'buckets' as camshaft followers.
Technically buckets are the ones that use a separate shim, either over or under.
Clutch
Turbo engine exhaust lash is 14 thousandths
For OEM Cams, my Brian crower cams call for a .0010" lash
@@Smeedia I know, but that’s still tight. Loose is better in this case
@@Smeedia what’s Oem intake lash???
Yes sir
🙏🙏🙏
😎👍🏻👍🏻
😁😁😁
So the cams just get set in there they don’t need to be in a special direction or anything sorry my first time as well lol
I’m gonna say the guy who bent the valves before you didn’t pay as much attention as you in math class😂
Lol he might have skipped a few days 😅
😁😁😁
😁😁😁😁
No one whats a suicidal motor the valve's are essential
Very very essential! Had a handful of questions on how to do this so figured it would help people over time 🙌
This doesn't make sense, I use this equation and get a bucket that is smaller then the first one that was in. That's just gonna increase the lash not shrink it and account for any cam wear.
Machine shops just tip the valves for clearance and don’t screw around with buckets or shims. Don’t waste the time to order the shims
What a pain in the ass way to figure out your cam follower size. Check out how you determine the correct shim for a shim under bucket valve train for a motorcycle engine. Like a Suzuki. Seems cumbersome without a mic. If you can measure your old buckets. Then adding or subtracting clearance is much quicker. Not sure I splaned that OK 🤔.
I'll have to take a gander at how they're done, this has been the most accurate way I've found to verify and find lash. Buckets get expensive at $30 a piece 😅
oh no numbers :o🥴
Lol all the math! 😅🔥
Take me to school 👍👍 did you went to a school or just learn from internet?
Just learned from videos and forums over the years 😁
@@Smeedia awesome gives me hope thanks man.
Looks like some precise and time consuming work
Gotta make sure it's all perfect 🔥😁
Greetings! 😁✌
Hope your having a good morning wolf 🙌🔥
@@Smeedia I am indeed! Hope your day is going well!
I disagree I rather measure the camshaft followers (what you call buckets) instead of having to remove the camshaft 16 times instead N=T+(A-V)
T- thickness of the old follower
A- valve clearance measure
N- thickness of the new follower
V- desired valve clearance
This way you only remove the follower once and if you can use o follower to bring another clearance to spec you can save money and reuse it….
That would be much quicker, but to be kn the safer side and not having a set of quality point mics, I had no way of validating that the measurements on the under side of the bucket were actually true sizes. If you do have the proper tools for that then by all means it would make it much easier
@@Smeedia
Either way will get you good result and that’s a fact
I agree with this method. A set of Micrometers aren't that expensive and personally, I think they're work the investment to eliminate any guesswork and save time.
You talk too fast hard to understand, need slow down
And hard to understand the way you explain
Bro all this math!! Man I’m fixing to give you my first ever thumbs down!!!!🤦🏻♂️🤣😂
Lol it's not that much math 😅🙏