This is a great video! After seeing this, I was motivated to also take apart my battery since it is displaying a flashing red circle indicating a voltage problem. The voltage measured across the 2 main terminals is 27V, and then when measuring across the B points, the lower half (B1-B2, etc) is all 0.11V whereas the higher ones like B13-B14 are around 3.6V. It's almost like half of the battery is dead (0.11V) whereas the other half is perfectly fine (3.6V). Do you think this is a loose connector to half of the battery or anything like that? Any advice on what to try next would be greatly appreciated, and thank you so much for making these videos, I have watched almost all of them! I got my battery 4 years ago (5AH) with my mower and I only mow 4-5 times a year so this is very disappointing for me.
Thanks for your comment. It is a shame for these packs not to see a lot more life. It sounds like you have a bad pack half for sure. If you have all of them reading low, It's possible the whole half is bad. Chances are if that low they will not recover (boost back up). At least most likely not all of them will recover. Sometimes you get some capacity back, but never all of it really. Hard to say what happened there. Sometimes it may take a complete new half to repair the pack and hard to do without other bad packs and parting them out on rare occasions you may find one of these at the recycle center or the recycle box at Lowes or Home Depot. I have asked for them and they let me have them. Some stores maybe different, but it's worth looking.
Great videos on the EGO battery packs. I'm on my second year with a EGO and I love it. Looking forward to their riding mower next year. Here's a question that I have not been able to find an answer to -> As I'm mowing the voltage in my EGO battery pack falls. As the voltage falls do the RPMs of the lawnmower blade also fall? I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thank you.
Honestly, I have had no issues with my older 21" push mower, so I don't know alot about the mowers. I do know mine does change rpm or torque based on demand or load change. My thought is that even as the pack drops off a little the torque would still be close or at least the controller would still spin it up to proper rpm. I really am not sure..
I'm looking forward to the BMS examination. I have been wondering if the BMS will still balance the cells if the battery is charged from a charger with just the + and - connected, or does the BMS send the charger a signal over the D connection to tell it to switch off during cell balancing and otherwise can't balance.
Hi, I will post the BMS board video soon. I did not get into the level that you are asking about here. I do believe the BMS will attempt to balance slight indifferences while charging. I have not traced out this circuit enough to know for sure, just with the shear number of small transistors and the dual transistor package at each cell, I believe it has ability to make milliamp changes while charging. I do not believe it can do much with the severe unbalance of cells and it will do just as you mentioned, react to the lowest cell and send the cut-out signal via the D-terminal. Or even the highest cell in the bunch while charging.
Happy New Year! I'm not sure if you ever got to doing further BMS repair, but I'm still curious about when and how the BMS does the cell balancing. It may do active cell balancing during charging and discharging. Have you identified if there is a balancing chip such as the MAX14921? Looking forward to your further investigations.
Yesterday I picked up a FREE 21 inch self propelled EGO mower, from 2017, 7.5 aH battery and charger on the side of the road. Owner said battery is faulty and did not want to buy a replacement. I will be viewing all of your excellent videos to see if I can repair the battery. It only charges to 25% and then the charger shuts down, but battery voltage is around 54 volts DC. The charge indicator light on the battery does not illuminate at all. The mower blade and self propel both function briefly then shut off, which starts the power indicator light alternating flashing red and green. I can turn on the LED headlights and they run for hours with a green power indicator light the entire time. Do you any guidance where to begin my troubleshooting efforts? I have access to two newer batteries and a charger at work, and think I might explore testing the mower with those batteries. But if there is something wrong with the mower itselt, I dont want to damage those batteries. Again, excellent videos, I do appreciate your knowledge and skill!
Awesome find. I would test it with the other packs if available for sure. I would not think it's much of a chance that the mower could damage a pack. There is a very low possibility I would think. I would also use those packs to make sure the charger is working well. If the led on the pack is not lighting up it sounds like the BMS board is not working or powered up at all. I would check connections to all three connectors on the BMS to make sure they are making good contact. If so the BMS on board DC-DC converter may have an issue. I have shared every repair to share what I have learned over the last 5 or 6 years. Best of luck to ya!
Trust me we all started not understanding! Knowledge will build slowly but surely, especially when we have the desire to learn it... If I can do it, anyone can!
Great video, thanks! I have a 4ah ego battery and the button on top has jammed down (too much dust I suspect). I’ve managed to fix the button now, but when I pulled the front cover off, I unfortunately tore all the small cables out of the larger white plug and I think some out of the smaller white plug. Do you have a photo of the plugs with the wires in place so I can see which colored wires to plug into each port on the two white plugs?
I have a video of the 2.5ah battery BMS wiring that was done to help out a viewer with a similar issue. It may be very similar. I know it is a little different because the plug is populated more for the middle temperature monitoring board on the 4 and 5ah packs. Let me know if you still have questions and I will try to help out. It will take me some time to get to it though.
Do you know if the battery will work in a tool without all the balance leads from the bms connected? (Not talking about charging) just need to power the tool.
Any thoughts on using a 3rd party larger battery pack (10+ Ah) in a similar 14cell config hooked up to the tools direct or using the existing boards with a larger Ah pack? Leaf blower drains the 7.5Ah so quickly, I'm looking for other cheaper options to get more runtime.
Great video. I have watched all of your ego videos at least once. I feel like I have learned a lot about ego and the batteries. But I did pull apart a 5Ah battery and pulled the wiring apart just like the one in this video. Do you know where I can buy the replacement male and female connectors and pins for the BMS? Also, what is the connector name? Any help would be appreciated.
Hi, Thanks for your comment. I have always thought most of these have the micro JST style connectors, but I am not sure, I have had several spares from other packs with bad cells etc. for parts. Also, some of these have even smaller connectors than others. Not all of these packs have the same size connectors since some are different generations of packs. If you need more help I can try to find more information, but I would be trying to guess since I have not had to purchase any myself. Best of luck to ya!
Just getting the black silicone off the BMS was frustrating enough. I have no idea how you peeled it off in big sheets like that. Mine just chunks off in to a million pieces. Would take me hours to get it like yours
Im curious if you think you could use that 4ah BMS/wiring harness on a 5ah or even 7.5ah pack or do you think the plugs and other components are different for a reason. In a previous video you did, on a group of some 2.5ah pack, the bms board looks like it was the same as the 5ah board from what i could see. I didnt catch the date of manufacture on either pack, in this video, but maybe the difference might be due to better or cheaper parts from older manufactured pack to newer one. Curious what you think. Another great video on the Ego batteries. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, I am not 100% sure but I am leaning towards the 4ah and 5ah being the same. I would believe the 7.5ah would be a different BMS. also the 2ah and 2.5ah may be the same also.
@@ThriftyToolShed I just got a 2.5ah, 4ah, and 5ah lot of batteries for parts on ebay and each of them had the same wire harness connectors Im thinking maybe the date of manufacturing has something to do with the different connectors? I plugged a good 5ah pack into the 2.5ah bms just to test the bms, cuz the cells were toast, and im getting a green flashing light. Hopefully your Q12 find gives me a fix! You are the man!
That is great information. I was wondering if it was more revision or board update since the connector size was even smaller! Thanks for your comment! Excellent job and best of luck to ya!
awesome video! i was taking apart my battery and that exact spark happened to me. i pulled to hard and yanked the wires from the connectors to the small circuit board. would you happen to have a diagram of where they go link to a new white clip?
I do have a video on the 2.5Ah wiring. Some may vary though whether being a 4Ah, 5Ah or even a different generation of packs. The connectors are different depending on if it's a 1st or 2nd Gen as well. The first Gen had smaller finer pitch connections. Mine seems to be JST-ZH 1.5mm pitch 8, 10, and 12 pin SMD connectors. I believe the 1st Gen was 1.0mm pitch similar to the JST-SH 1.0mm. Hope it helps and thanks for your kind comment.
Love this video. Perhaps I missed it, or perhaps it is not in here... do you know if the 7.5 Ah BMS wiring is the same as shown here? I have a 29 month old 7.5 Ah pack with the fuel gage (model 4200T) that stopped charging. I unscrewed all the screws and attempted to open it up to diagnose and the top wasn't coming off easily like it did on my last repair of a 2.5 Ah pack. Suddenly, the top pried loose and I accidentally yanked ALL the wires out of the 3 BMS connectors!!! I'll carefully study your video again and attempt a re-wire, but that's a lot of wires to get put back in the right spot so I was wondering if a wiring diagram exists somewhere?
I actually do not have a 7.5ah to say for sure, sorry. It maybe similar to the 2.5ah in the fact that the cell clusters are all measured at the same point possibly, even if 2 cells or 3cells in your case in parallel. I do know that the board in the middle of the pack that does the individual cells may be different, but the connection may be the same as the 5ah. Just a guess. I hope your connector is not damaged and the pins push back in easy.
Also, You may have already seen the 2.5ah BMS wiring video. I recorded this for a viewer with a issue similar to yours a while back. Sorry I do not have a 7.5ah.... ua-cam.com/video/RfTJODoh8Q4/v-deo.html
@@ThriftyToolShed @Thrifty Tool Shed thanks. I started with the assumption that the connection is the same as the 4/5 Ah. Most of the pins pushed back easily but, as you saw in this video, the wires are live and 3 of mine shorted and melted the pins. I've ordered a "for parts" pack to see if I can harvest either spare cells or the BMS connectors.
Always like to see you tinkering with these Ego batteries, learning how they tick. Thanks again for answering a previous question I had with a promptly made video the next day (BMS to cell wiring pinout). I had just pulled my diy Ego battery project off the shelf recently, I’ve decided I will buy one or two used ego packs. I can replace old/ bad cells if I have a working bms. Do you have a supplier of used ego packs you can recommend? eBay? Thank you, Eric
I have a gadget in my collection that Ive been thinking I’d like to send to you actually, if you’d be interested. It’s a 3000 (peak) watt nexus inverter power station and I would love to see it broken down and studied in the way that you do with other tools. There’s so much more that you’d be able to learn about it with your experience and attention to detail. I was able to run the inverter with a 48v Lifepo4 pack if I bypassed much of the electronics in the unit, but it’s not something I have much of a use for at the moment. Any chance you’d be willing to take a closer look at it and show us what you learn? I’d be happy to mail it to you if you are interested!! What do you think?
I really do not have any one seller honestly I just have saved searches on eBay with alerts with "EGO 56v not working" so I kinda see what pops up, at least some of it. And I just have 1issues finding good deals now, some sellers want alot of money now for these, some over half price. I am not willing to pay that much because of the risk involved. I have always come out good so far. But I also have a limit of no more than $20 for a 2.5ah and $50 for the 4 or 5 ah packs. Hard to find at times though...
I just wonder how much the shipping would be, I live in Augusta,GA. It may cost a good bit, it is a pretty big box? it would be great to see it. Just don't want you to be out. Also is it something you want back, I would not want to take a chance and ruin a gadget of yours.
Eanted to ask you a question regarding an Ego battery which you have covered several times in your videos. The pack I have seems fine but will not start the basic Ego charger but the charger operates normally with another pack. When the center button on the BMS it pressed it indicates solid green solid during this check. The voltage across the + and - terminals shows just under 56vdc and will charge to 56vdc using a separate charger I assembled to test it. It seems as if the data terminal on the pack apparently needs to communicate with the processor on the BMS and the charger. Have you found any components on the BMS that have known to become defective. If its the μcontroller in the BMS thats likely to be a death blow but the pack seems find otherwise. All balancing connections to the 14 cells are in good shape and connect to the BMS. Suggestions please sir?
I have not seen that exact issue to say for sure. I have not had a microcontroller issue yet that I know of. I do have a video called "what is the D-terminal" that I discuss a bit about the communication and how I still don't really know a lot about it. If the green light for fuel gauge is working at least the microcontroller is working, but then again these packs have 2 microcontrollers on them. Other than the terminals themselves needing the connections cleaned or adjusted / tightened, I have not seen one not charge while showing green. Will it pull down in a tool ok? Because the tool communicates with this terminal as well!
@@ThriftyToolShed I don’t have a compatible tool to check in this way but it makes sense. Thanks for the suggestion. I am tracing out the data circuit from the main connector to identify any components that may have failed. Happy to shard with you what I find. Wish I had a spare BMS to isolate the issue. Thanks!
Phillip, Tracing out the “data” connection in the battery I arrived at the same discovery you made when you posted the video. Since I have one pack that charges normally, I decided to use the dc converter shown also shown in your previous videos except the one I have doesn’t have the current and voltage display but otherwise operates identically. I’m using that as the input source to the buck convertor to charge the other pack. I set up the convertor to charge at ~700ma. Works perfectly allowing me to have use of the pack as a supply while allowing me to charge it without making a standalone charger. After recharging the source pack in the Ego charger, I have two packs fully charged. I have however been unable to confirm whether or not the pack with the defective BMS will properly power an Ego tool but I expect not. Thanks
31.5V on average is 2.25V per 14 sets of cells so the voltage is below the safe cut off for the cells. Some could be lower than that due to the possibility of unbalanced cells. If pack is balanced well you could charge up pack all at once with a 0-60V CV CC charger or a Drok DC-DC converter like I have a video on. If cells are unbalanced you may have to painstakingly charge every 14 cell groups to match. Sometimes once cells go lower than spec they lose some capacity and some don't come back. I have taken time to share many videos as we have learned together. I have a video on using the Drok Converter, replacement cells and repairs. I have a recent one on "Lithium Battery FAQ#1" that you may find helpful. Best of luck to ya!
I don't have one for the 1st Gen packs. It's possibly very similar to this 2nd gen 2.5ah pack wiring. The 4.0ah and higher will have a few more wires populated for the additional temperature monitoring though. ua-cam.com/video/RfTJODoh8Q4/v-deo.html
Good video. Thanks. I take it these are 14s2p. Gotta wonder why they make this as well as the 5ah even though this one is newer. Means they’re only using 2ah cells in this one when they obviously have 2.5ah cells available. I had figured this being newer would be 14s1p 21700 4ah cells
Thanks for your comment! Yes the 4ah and 5ah is 14S 2P. I believe the 2ah and the 4ah are what I call the Gen1 packs. Most have different connectors on BMS and the 2.5, 5.0 and 7.5ah ok believe to be the 2nd generation and are 2500mah cells. Yes the 2 and 4ah are 2000mah cells for sure and over the last 7-8 years we are seeing better prices on the higher capacity 18650 cells. My thoughts are just EGO keeping up with the availability and best price point in the beginning packs? I am not sure if the newest version has 21700 or not honestly, especially the new 10ah. I have a lot of original and repaired packs now and don't really need to spend money on the newer generation packs, I do like that fuel gauge though!
@@ThriftyToolShed that’s what I had thought at first but their newest 16” trimmer, their top model, comes with the 4ah battery. You’d think it would have the second gen as it’s their premium model and both the 4ah and 5ah would weight the same. I believe you you know a lot more about these batteries than I do. I was just surprised. That’s why I thought maybe the 4ah was new tech
@@ThriftyToolShed their website claims it's been upgraded to the new fuel gauge. Their new 2022 16" upgraded chainsaw also comes with a 2.5ah or a 4ah. You'd think they would drop the 4ah. Seems redundant.
I wonder if there is any chance they are taking salvaged 2500mah cells from warranty repairs and putting them in packs and calling them 4ah packs. I know I wouldn't complain if I thought I was getting 4ah and it was really 4.6ah because it was a repaired partially used 5ah pack to begin with, but would be upset if they called it a refurbished 5ah pack.. They already have all the legal stuff done to sell 4ah packs so have a use for >2000mah cells.
Im just in the process of fixing a 5ah battery. I found 2 cell that wer one volt lower then the others. I was able to charge the 2 cells up to the same voltage of the other cells. My problem is I had to pry the heat sensing board of the inside. On one side of the pack. It looks like half of the cells are parallel to two wires .I broke the board in two Can I replace all those sensors wit a resister. If so what value would I need on a 5ah battery?
I have actually not tried to replace the middle board. Never seen one break. Just had one with a bad connection to that board. It seems to have transistors and uses the PN junctions to monitor the temp. All I would know is to test it out and see. Best of luck to ya!
Well I have a 56v 7.5ah battery for my mower. I’m getting 56v off the main connectors. The top/bottom solder tabs appear to add 8v 8,16,24 etc. I’m thinking I have a problem with the battery control board with the power button on it. Is this a common part to go bad? Mine used to work but since I pulled the putty off it I must have damaged something getting zero response from it. It uses the 3 white connectors. Just hate to spend 3-400 dollars if I can get a replacement board.
First, is the pack under warranty? Second, why did you state you pulled the putty off if as you stated "it used to work" before that? Third, did you hit anything or rip off any component while removing putty? Sounds like cells are fine? Seems something is missing or at least damaged on BMS board. Boards are not available so either have to find bad or damaged component or get a used one from another bad pack etc.
@@ThriftyToolShed it didn’t work properly before tear down. In the mower it would run for a few seconds then stop. If it was under warranty it’s not any longer. I’ve seen a few 5amp batteries that say no longer working. They have the same power meter but not sure if they have different internals. It appears to be a 1st Gen connector in mine. Happy 4th wasn’t expecting a response!!!
@@zcivicef Happy 4th! I am not sure of all the differences, I know the boards are different. Unsure how different. I know the 1st gen 2.5ah board will connect to the 1st gen 5ah pack and at least run it. Of course in some devices it thinks it's a 2.5ah instead of 5ah and the temperature board in the middle of the pack is not being monitored since the 2.5ah does not have that programmed to monitor on those pins. The difference between 5 and 7.5ah I still don't know! Best of luck to ya!
Thanks so much for this info... And hi from Ireland.. I've one 4.0ah battery that works but the light flashes green all the time and it discharges by itself, I've dismantled the battery and visually inspected the cells and bms... any pointers on what to look for please... I'v
Hello from Augusta, Georgia USA. One of my very first EGO pack videos was about this issue blinking green all the time. It was a 2.5ah and l was simply sharing as learning so please be patient with it. I have added time labels to different parts of the video since it is long and I share the transistor Q12 causing the issue on mine and I have the time stamp for it's replacement in the description if you want to get right to it. Hope it helps you with yours. This video has helped many and I learned alot while doing it. Still a few people had negative things to say since it was a long video and alot of learn as we go. Most negative comments stem from not watching the video completely or the video right before this one that explained the problem with the pack. Alot of people said the blinking green was normal storage discharging which I absolutely explained that mine was doing this all the time even when charged back up and in use. This will pull your pack to zero volts and destroy it, make sure to keep it charged up. Some also stated this repair was not even needed because EGO would warranty the pack which I also explained that they had replaced the pack and told me to simply recycle this one so we repaired it! Hope it helps, Best of luck to ya! ua-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/v-deo.html
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks so much... I should have taken the time to watch all your video before asking... Nonetheless, thanks for pointing me to the right place.. I'll check the transistor and let you know how I get on.. peace.
@@ThriftyToolShed so you are absolutely spot on, Q12 shorted out... sadly the pack went off to my dealer to be inspected and they let it run out dead... so no recovery for the pack... anywhoo, the later packs are much better, esp the 7,5Ah... makes the 1800 chainsaw pull like crazy. That and a professional bar and chain transform the saw.. Thanks again for your help.
Absolutely. Great work troubleshooting. Too bad the cells pulled down. It is hard to catch this in time especially when sitting around the repair shop like that.
Curious to know, why is there nothing that can be done if the battery has drained near zero? I've got two packs in that situation, and would love to know what, if anything, can be done.
Hi, well usually if all cells are pulled to zero they are at the least very low in capacity. Alot of times the pack will have some cells that may not recover at all and could potentially be hazardous to charge with much current. This is due to the cells reach well below the safe cut off voltage of around 2.7v per cell. Li-ion can not safely be discharged below the 2.7V threshold. Sometimes you get luck with a constant current and constant voltage supply and slowly bringing up the voltage not exceeding 500mA to 1A per cell.
I’ve got a 5ah pack showing 47.2v and blinking red straightaway (no green before blinking red). So I assume I have at least one bad cell, is it worth replacing the single cell?
I mean, for me it's worth it. I also sometimes have replacement cells from other non working packs I have bought off of eBay non working etc. It's up to you if you have the time, tools and desire to pursue it. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed I went to 5-6 stores checking their recycle boxes and no ego batteries, any suggestion on some generics 18650s from Amazon or some other source to replace the one cell?
You did good checking the bins. I have not found many since the pandemic either. It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have..... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
Sorry, I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
I have worked on many of the 1st and 2nd gen packs. None with the fuel gauge yet. ( I consider them the 3rd gen, may not be correct?) I have only had one pack failure so far of my purchased new packs. It was under warranty and I repaired the faulty one that EGO let me keep.( My first EGO repair video) From that point on I purchased several bad ones to learn more about them and I even had a small engine repair shop send me some to learn from and use for parts as needed. From what I have seen, a small percentage of these tend to fail while under warranty, I would guess about 10-20% maybe? Alot of these last past the warranty period up to maybe 5 years, but I wonder if many will make it much past that? I do have some of my original packs that are approaching 5 years old and seem to be fine still. I would imagine getting 8 years out of a pack will be stretching it without working on it. With lithium packs it's hard to get 10 years out of them, no matter the brand. I look forward to the next platform maybe solid state batteries when alot of the lithium issues are gone. I like how far lithium has come, but it has so many draw backs from heat degredation, overcharged, over discharged and of course the BMS to control all that gets complicated and having 14 cells in series to make 56V makes them much more likely to have issues, of course that's just the 2.5ah. the 5ah has 28 cells and the 7.5ah has 42 cells so I would say the larger packs will have more issues naturally.
I have not worked on any packs with the segmented fuel gauge. I myself consider those Gen3 packs? It does seem like a possible BMS issue. It's hard to say really since I have only worked on the older Gen 1 and 2 packs. I have seen similar issues with those and problem is the BMS board. Best of luck to ya!
The voltage on the cells have gone too low if reading 25 -26 volts. You really never want to see below 35V. 14S or 14 cells in series at the lowest allowed voltage safely on the cells in around 2.5V. so 35V minimum to not affect the cells. EGO cuts the pack off around 3V per cell typically so around 42V.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
I have a 7.5AH that has bricked. I took it apart to see what the issue could be, but I can't fix it, if you're interested in it, I just need shipping to send it to you
I would pay shipping for sure. It would possibly make it's way into a video! You can message me on messenger with the link to my Facebook page about the address and shipping cost. Thanks for considering this as possible video. facebook.com/weeklywhatisit/
The part number is on the chip itself. Mine was MJD117. I showed some links to these in the very first repair video of the EGO pack. It's been a while hopefully the links are still working. ua-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/v-deo.htmlsi=Tz9WvN8sPCKD7W9J
I was told by ego that my 56v 2.5amp battery was bad although only one year old and only used three times. They are sending replacement battery. I was wondering if you would know why the charger would blink twice green intermittent while the battery blinks green three times intermittent. The charger fan does not come on and makes a slight buzzing sound which is also intermittent.
Sometimes when a pack is low in voltage the charger will pulse or click like a relay to bump up the pack to a safe level to charge. Unsure if that is what it is or not. If the voltage is below 40V or so it may do that. Surprising that the pack is not showing red though?
@@ThriftyToolShed The charger and battery are behaving strange. I unplugged the charger for 24 hours and retried charging and the battery started charging normally! A few minutes later it shut off and charger blinking steady red. ON Battery nothing. I tried again now back to 3 green flashes on battery and it pauses for about five seconds and flashes 3 times again. It seems to be pulsing like you said but does not make sense that it started charging and then shut off about 4 minutes later. I have a T-15 arriving today and may do some inspection.
@@ThriftyToolShed I really screwed it up now.... Put a 12v jump starter on it to just see what would happen and now it flashes red. Tore into it and it reads 36v total, 2.4v lowest to 2.7v highest. looking at the board I can see nothing abnormal. I will wait for new battery to arrive to see if charger works properly and if so will try to jump new batt to old batt. just to bring it up some to where it might charge again.
I believe I was calling the 5Ah with the fuse issue the #1. I added videos later on and the video names did not flow the best as I look back at it. I actually ordered all 5Ah packs or atleast eBay seller said they were, but some of them came in 4Ah so that is some confusion in the name including 4Ah and 5Ah. I was originally trying to do a 5Ah video series to start with. ua-cam.com/video/4NESKJ0beAc/v-deo.htmlsi=k3hq2-aAbNFSL3X4
Is it any power at all or just weak? If it has no voltage at terminals it could be a blown fuse on the connection board. The trace type fuse is soldered on.
does anyone know what the "D" terminal on the battery pack is for? I tried to connect a 52v ebike battery to my blower and it only runs for a few seconds before shutting down
This is a video I have about what I know so far about the D-terminal. Some seem to think differently, I still think it's a communication between the tool and pack.
That would be great. I have considered that, but trying not to confuse anyone. I get hundereds of request to repair people's stuff. Of course I have to explain how it's no way I could do them all if I wanted to and with shipping costs it be hard to do it cost effectively. I have in the past wanted to get the people willing to send broken stuff just as a video of the week type thing, but I don't want people sending things and expecting them to be returned. So I been trying to buy a few of broken items and just friends and family items for the time being. Thanks for your comment!
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have..... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
Great video and nice fix! Glad to see you finally got to see those mystery boards I was talking about.
This is a great video! After seeing this, I was motivated to also take apart my battery since it is displaying a flashing red circle indicating a voltage problem. The voltage measured across the 2 main terminals is 27V, and then when measuring across the B points, the lower half (B1-B2, etc) is all 0.11V whereas the higher ones like B13-B14 are around 3.6V. It's almost like half of the battery is dead (0.11V) whereas the other half is perfectly fine (3.6V). Do you think this is a loose connector to half of the battery or anything like that? Any advice on what to try next would be greatly appreciated, and thank you so much for making these videos, I have watched almost all of them! I got my battery 4 years ago (5AH) with my mower and I only mow 4-5 times a year so this is very disappointing for me.
Thanks for your comment. It is a shame for these packs not to see a lot more life. It sounds like you have a bad pack half for sure. If you have all of them reading low, It's possible the whole half is bad. Chances are if that low they will not recover (boost back up). At least most likely not all of them will recover. Sometimes you get some capacity back, but never all of it really. Hard to say what happened there. Sometimes it may take a complete new half to repair the pack and hard to do without other bad packs and parting them out on rare occasions you may find one of these at the recycle center or the recycle box at Lowes or Home Depot. I have asked for them and they let me have them. Some stores maybe different, but it's worth looking.
Awesome videos! Any recommendations on how to secure the temp monitor boards back to the cells? Thanks.
I have used electronics grade silicone before. Similar to below for an example:
amzn.to/47sSMLh
Great videos on the EGO battery packs. I'm on my second year with a EGO and I love it. Looking forward to their riding mower next year. Here's a question that I have not been able to find an answer to -> As I'm mowing the voltage in my EGO battery pack falls. As the voltage falls do the RPMs of the lawnmower blade also fall? I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thank you.
Honestly, I have had no issues with my older 21" push mower, so I don't know alot about the mowers. I do know mine does change rpm or torque based on demand or load change. My thought is that even as the pack drops off a little the torque would still be close or at least the controller would still spin it up to proper rpm. I really am not sure..
@@ThriftyToolShed the 7.5amp and higher packs have 3p so much more available amps and therefore less voltage sag... this should help
I'm looking forward to the BMS examination. I have been wondering if the BMS will still balance the cells if the battery is charged from a charger with just the + and - connected, or does the BMS send the charger a signal over the D connection to tell it to switch off during cell balancing and otherwise can't balance.
Hi, I will post the BMS board video soon. I did not get into the level that you are asking about here. I do believe the BMS will attempt to balance slight indifferences while charging. I have not traced out this circuit enough to know for sure, just with the shear number of small transistors and the dual transistor package at each cell, I believe it has ability to make milliamp changes while charging. I do not believe it can do much with the severe unbalance of cells and it will do just as you mentioned, react to the lowest cell and send the cut-out signal via the D-terminal. Or even the highest cell in the bunch while charging.
Happy New Year! I'm not sure if you ever got to doing further BMS repair, but I'm still curious about when and how the BMS does the cell balancing. It may do active cell balancing during charging and discharging. Have you identified if there is a balancing chip such as the MAX14921? Looking forward to your further investigations.
Yesterday I picked up a FREE 21 inch self propelled EGO mower, from 2017, 7.5 aH battery and charger on the side of the road. Owner said battery is faulty and did not want to buy a replacement. I will be viewing all of your excellent videos to see if I can repair the battery. It only charges to 25% and then the charger shuts down, but battery voltage is around 54 volts DC. The charge indicator light on the battery does not illuminate at all. The mower blade and self propel both function briefly then shut off, which starts the power indicator light alternating flashing red and green. I can turn on the LED headlights and they run for hours with a green power indicator light the entire time. Do you any guidance where to begin my troubleshooting efforts? I have access to two newer batteries and a charger at work, and think I might explore testing the mower with those batteries. But if there is something wrong with the mower itselt, I dont want to damage those batteries. Again, excellent videos, I do appreciate your knowledge and skill!
Awesome find. I would test it with the other packs if available for sure. I would not think it's much of a chance that the mower could damage a pack. There is a very low possibility I would think. I would also use those packs to make sure the charger is working well. If the led on the pack is not lighting up it sounds like the BMS board is not working or powered up at all. I would check connections to all three connectors on the BMS to make sure they are making good contact. If so the BMS on board DC-DC converter may have an issue. I have shared every repair to share what I have learned over the last 5 or 6 years. Best of luck to ya!
Did you manage to fix it? What was wrong with the battery/mower?
Really interesting. I just don't understand electricity enough. But really interesting to watch.
Trust me we all started not understanding! Knowledge will build slowly but surely, especially when we have the desire to learn it...
If I can do it, anyone can!
Great video, thanks! I have a 4ah ego battery and the button on top has jammed down (too much dust I suspect). I’ve managed to fix the button now, but when I pulled the front cover off, I unfortunately tore all the small cables out of the larger white plug and I think some out of the smaller white plug. Do you have a photo of the plugs with the wires in place so I can see which colored wires to plug into each port on the two white plugs?
I have a video of the 2.5ah battery BMS wiring that was done to help out a viewer with a similar issue. It may be very similar. I know it is a little different because the plug is populated more for the middle temperature monitoring board on the 4 and 5ah packs. Let me know if you still have questions and I will try to help out. It will take me some time to get to it though.
Do you know if the battery will work in a tool without all the balance leads from the bms connected?
(Not talking about charging) just need to power the tool.
It will not. Most tools will run for about 10 secs and shutdown if issue detected or no communication with the D-terminal. Some may not start at all.
Any thoughts on using a 3rd party larger battery pack (10+ Ah) in a similar 14cell config hooked up to the tools direct or using the existing boards with a larger Ah pack? Leaf blower drains the 7.5Ah so quickly, I'm looking for other cheaper options to get more runtime.
Great video. I have watched all of your ego videos at least once. I feel like I have learned a lot about ego and the batteries. But I did pull apart a 5Ah battery and pulled the wiring apart just like the one in this video. Do you know where I can buy the replacement male and female connectors and pins for the BMS? Also, what is the connector name? Any help would be appreciated.
Hi,
Thanks for your comment. I have always thought most of these have the micro JST style connectors, but I am not sure, I have had several spares from other packs with bad cells etc. for parts. Also, some of these have even smaller connectors than others. Not all of these packs have the same size connectors since some are different generations of packs. If you need more help I can try to find more information, but I would be trying to guess since I have not had to purchase any myself. Best of luck to ya!
Just getting the black silicone off the BMS was frustrating enough. I have no idea how you peeled it off in big sheets like that. Mine just chunks off in to a million pieces. Would take me hours to get it like yours
It sounds as if EGO may have changed the potting compound. All mine so far has been the dark gray soft silicone. 😩
Im curious if you think you could use that 4ah BMS/wiring harness on a 5ah or even 7.5ah pack or do you think the plugs and other components are different for a reason. In a previous video you did, on a group of some 2.5ah pack, the bms board looks like it was the same as the 5ah board from what i could see. I didnt catch the date of manufacture on either pack, in this video, but maybe the difference might be due to better or cheaper parts from older manufactured pack to newer one. Curious what you think. Another great video on the Ego batteries. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, I am not 100% sure but I am leaning towards the 4ah and 5ah being the same. I would believe the 7.5ah would be a different BMS. also the 2ah and 2.5ah may be the same also.
@@ThriftyToolShed I just got a 2.5ah, 4ah, and 5ah lot of batteries for parts on ebay and each of them had the same wire harness connectors Im thinking maybe the date of manufacturing has something to do with the different connectors? I plugged a good 5ah pack into the 2.5ah bms just to test the bms, cuz the cells were toast, and im getting a green flashing light. Hopefully your Q12 find gives me a fix! You are the man!
That is great information. I was wondering if it was more revision or board update since the connector size was even smaller! Thanks for your comment! Excellent job and best of luck to ya!
Bang ...surprise... thanks for sharing
awesome video! i was taking apart my battery and that exact spark happened to me. i pulled to hard and yanked the wires from the connectors to the small circuit board. would you happen to have a diagram of where they go link to a new white clip?
I do have a video on the 2.5Ah wiring. Some may vary though whether being a 4Ah, 5Ah or even a different generation of packs. The connectors are different depending on if it's a 1st or 2nd Gen as well. The first Gen had smaller finer pitch connections. Mine seems to be JST-ZH
1.5mm pitch
8, 10, and 12 pin SMD connectors. I believe the 1st Gen was 1.0mm pitch similar to the JST-SH 1.0mm. Hope it helps and thanks for your kind comment.
Love this video. Perhaps I missed it, or perhaps it is not in here... do you know if the 7.5 Ah BMS wiring is the same as shown here? I have a 29 month old 7.5 Ah pack with the fuel gage (model 4200T) that stopped charging. I unscrewed all the screws and attempted to open it up to diagnose and the top wasn't coming off easily like it did on my last repair of a 2.5 Ah pack. Suddenly, the top pried loose and I accidentally yanked ALL the wires out of the 3 BMS connectors!!! I'll carefully study your video again and attempt a re-wire, but that's a lot of wires to get put back in the right spot so I was wondering if a wiring diagram exists somewhere?
I actually do not have a 7.5ah to say for sure, sorry. It maybe similar to the 2.5ah in the fact that the cell clusters are all measured at the same point possibly, even if 2 cells or 3cells in your case in parallel. I do know that the board in the middle of the pack that does the individual cells may be different, but the connection may be the same as the 5ah. Just a guess. I hope your connector is not damaged and the pins push back in easy.
Also,
You may have already seen the 2.5ah BMS wiring video. I recorded this for a viewer with a issue similar to yours a while back. Sorry I do not have a 7.5ah....
ua-cam.com/video/RfTJODoh8Q4/v-deo.html
@@ThriftyToolShed @Thrifty Tool Shed thanks. I started with the assumption that the connection is the same as the 4/5 Ah. Most of the pins pushed back easily but, as you saw in this video, the wires are live and 3 of mine shorted and melted the pins. I've ordered a "for parts" pack to see if I can harvest either spare cells or the BMS connectors.
Great video!
Always like to see you tinkering with these Ego batteries, learning how they tick. Thanks again for answering a previous question I had with a promptly made video the next day (BMS to cell wiring pinout). I had just pulled my diy Ego battery project off the shelf recently, I’ve decided I will buy one or two used ego packs. I can replace old/ bad cells if I have a working bms. Do you have a supplier of used ego packs you can recommend? eBay?
Thank you,
Eric
I have a gadget in my collection that Ive been thinking I’d like to send to you actually, if you’d be interested. It’s a 3000 (peak) watt nexus inverter power station and I would love to see it broken down and studied in the way that you do with other tools. There’s so much more that you’d be able to learn about it with your experience and attention to detail. I was able to run the inverter with a 48v Lifepo4 pack if I bypassed much of the electronics in the unit, but it’s not something I have much of a use for at the moment. Any chance you’d be willing to take a closer look at it and show us what you learn? I’d be happy to mail it to you if you are interested!! What do you think?
I really do not have any one seller honestly I just have saved searches on eBay with alerts with "EGO 56v not working" so I kinda see what pops up, at least some of it. And I just have 1issues finding good deals now, some sellers want alot of money now for these, some over half price. I am not willing to pay that much because of the risk involved. I have always come out good so far. But I also have a limit of no more than $20 for a 2.5ah and $50 for the 4 or 5 ah packs. Hard to find at times though...
I just wonder how much the shipping would be, I live in Augusta,GA. It may cost a good bit, it is a pretty big box? it would be great to see it. Just don't want you to be out. Also is it something you want back, I would not want to take a chance and ruin a gadget of yours.
Fascinating!
Eanted to ask you a question regarding an Ego battery which you have covered several times in your videos. The pack I have seems fine but will not start the basic Ego charger but the charger operates normally with another pack. When the center button on the BMS it pressed it indicates solid green solid during this check. The voltage across the + and - terminals shows just under 56vdc and will charge to 56vdc using a separate charger I assembled to test it. It seems as if the data terminal on the pack apparently needs to communicate with the processor on the BMS and the charger. Have you found any components on the BMS that have known to become defective. If its the μcontroller in the BMS thats likely to be a death blow but the pack seems find otherwise. All balancing connections to the 14 cells are in good shape and connect to the BMS. Suggestions please sir?
I have not seen that exact issue to say for sure. I have not had a microcontroller issue yet that I know of. I do have a video called "what is the D-terminal" that I discuss a bit about the communication and how I still don't really know a lot about it. If the green light for fuel gauge is working at least the microcontroller is working, but then again these packs have 2 microcontrollers on them. Other than the terminals themselves needing the connections cleaned or adjusted / tightened, I have not seen one not charge while showing green. Will it pull down in a tool ok? Because the tool communicates with this terminal as well!
@@ThriftyToolShed I don’t have a compatible tool to check in this way but it makes sense. Thanks for the suggestion. I am tracing out the data circuit from the main connector to identify any components that may have failed. Happy to shard with you what I find. Wish I had a spare BMS to isolate the issue. Thanks!
Phillip, Tracing out the “data” connection in the battery I arrived at the same discovery you made when you posted the video. Since I have one pack that charges normally, I decided to use the dc converter shown also shown in your previous videos except the one I have doesn’t have the current and voltage display but otherwise operates identically. I’m using that as the input source to the buck convertor to charge the other pack. I set up the convertor to charge at ~700ma. Works perfectly allowing me to have use of the pack as a supply while allowing me to charge it without making a standalone charger. After recharging the source pack in the Ego charger, I have two packs fully charged. I have however been unable to confirm whether or not the pack with the defective BMS will properly power an Ego tool but I expect not.
Thanks
Hi there, I have 56v 4ah ego battery that I bought second hand that only shows 31.5v. How would I go trying to charging it. Thanks in anticipation.
31.5V on average is 2.25V per 14 sets of cells so the voltage is below the safe cut off for the cells. Some could be lower than that due to the possibility of unbalanced cells. If pack is balanced well you could charge up pack all at once with a 0-60V CV CC charger or a Drok DC-DC converter like I have a video on. If cells are unbalanced you may have to painstakingly charge every 14 cell groups to match. Sometimes once cells go lower than spec they lose some capacity and some don't come back. I have taken time to share many videos as we have learned together. I have a video on using the Drok Converter, replacement cells and repairs. I have a recent one on "Lithium Battery FAQ#1" that you may find helpful. Best of luck to ya!
Thanks a lot. I find the wiring here.
by any chance do you have the color pinout for the BMS , the one the black connector vs 3 white connectors. Thanks in advance!
I don't have one for the 1st Gen packs. It's possibly very similar to this 2nd gen 2.5ah pack wiring. The 4.0ah and higher will have a few more wires populated for the additional temperature monitoring though.
ua-cam.com/video/RfTJODoh8Q4/v-deo.html
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you for taking your time to reply. You have a new subscriber! I will check the link later today.
Good video. Thanks. I take it these are 14s2p. Gotta wonder why they make this as well as the 5ah even though this one is newer. Means they’re only using 2ah cells in this one when they obviously have 2.5ah cells available. I had figured this being newer would be 14s1p 21700 4ah cells
Thanks for your comment! Yes the 4ah and 5ah is 14S 2P. I believe the 2ah and the 4ah are what I call the Gen1 packs. Most have different connectors on BMS and the 2.5, 5.0 and 7.5ah ok believe to be the 2nd generation and are 2500mah cells. Yes the 2 and 4ah are 2000mah cells for sure and over the last 7-8 years we are seeing better prices on the higher capacity 18650 cells. My thoughts are just EGO keeping up with the availability and best price point in the beginning packs? I am not sure if the newest version has 21700 or not honestly, especially the new 10ah. I have a lot of original and repaired packs now and don't really need to spend money on the newer generation packs, I do like that fuel gauge though!
@@ThriftyToolShed that’s what I had thought at first but their newest 16” trimmer, their top model, comes with the 4ah battery. You’d think it would have the second gen as it’s their premium model and both the 4ah and 5ah would weight the same. I believe you you know a lot more about these batteries than I do. I was just surprised. That’s why I thought maybe the 4ah was new tech
@@victorvannatter312
That's interesting. So the 4ah has the segmented fuel gauge or is it the older style with just one LED?
@@ThriftyToolShed their website claims it's been upgraded to the new fuel gauge. Their new 2022 16" upgraded chainsaw also comes with a 2.5ah or a 4ah. You'd think they would drop the 4ah. Seems redundant.
I wonder if there is any chance they are taking salvaged 2500mah cells from warranty repairs and putting them in packs and calling them 4ah packs. I know I wouldn't complain if I thought I was getting 4ah and it was really 4.6ah because it was a repaired partially used 5ah pack to begin with, but would be upset if they called it a refurbished 5ah pack.. They already have all the legal stuff done to sell 4ah packs so have a use for >2000mah cells.
Im just in the process of fixing a 5ah battery. I found 2 cell that wer one volt lower then the others. I was able to charge the 2 cells up to the same voltage of the other cells. My problem is I had to pry the heat sensing board of the inside. On one side of the pack. It looks like half of the cells are parallel to two wires .I broke the board in two Can I replace all those sensors wit a resister. If so what value would I need on a 5ah battery?
I have actually not tried to replace the middle board. Never seen one break. Just had one with a bad connection to that board. It seems to have transistors and uses the PN junctions to monitor the temp. All I would know is to test it out and see.
Best of luck to ya!
Well I have a 56v 7.5ah battery for my mower. I’m getting 56v off the main connectors. The top/bottom solder tabs appear to add 8v 8,16,24 etc. I’m thinking I have a problem with the battery control board with the power button on it. Is this a common part to go bad? Mine used to work but since I pulled the putty off it I must have damaged something getting zero response from it. It uses the 3 white connectors. Just hate to spend 3-400 dollars if I can get a replacement board.
First, is the pack under warranty? Second, why did you state you pulled the putty off if as you stated "it used to work" before that? Third, did you hit anything or rip off any component while removing putty? Sounds like cells are fine? Seems something is missing or at least damaged on BMS board. Boards are not available so either have to find bad or damaged component or get a used one from another bad pack etc.
@@ThriftyToolShed it didn’t work properly before tear down. In the mower it would run for a few seconds then stop. If it was under warranty it’s not any longer. I’ve seen a few 5amp batteries that say no longer working. They have the same power meter but not sure if they have different internals. It appears to be a 1st Gen connector in mine. Happy 4th wasn’t expecting a response!!!
@@zcivicef
Happy 4th!
I am not sure of all the differences, I know the boards are different. Unsure how different. I know the 1st gen 2.5ah board will connect to the 1st gen 5ah pack and at least run it. Of course in some devices it thinks it's a 2.5ah instead of 5ah and the temperature board in the middle of the pack is not being monitored since the 2.5ah does not have that programmed to monitor on those pins. The difference between 5 and 7.5ah I still don't know!
Best of luck to ya!
Thanks so much for this info... And hi from Ireland.. I've one 4.0ah battery that works but the light flashes green all the time and it discharges by itself, I've dismantled the battery and visually inspected the cells and bms... any pointers on what to look for please... I'v
Hello from Augusta, Georgia USA.
One of my very first EGO pack videos was about this issue blinking green all the time. It was a 2.5ah and l was simply sharing as learning so please be patient with it. I have added time labels to different parts of the video since it is long and I share the transistor Q12 causing the issue on mine and I have the time stamp for it's replacement in the description if you want to get right to it. Hope it helps you with yours. This video has helped many and I learned alot while doing it. Still a few people had negative things to say since it was a long video and alot of learn as we go. Most negative comments stem from not watching the video completely or the video right before this one that explained the problem with the pack. Alot of people said the blinking green was normal storage discharging which I absolutely explained that mine was doing this all the time even when charged back up and in use. This will pull your pack to zero volts and destroy it, make sure to keep it charged up. Some also stated this repair was not even needed because EGO would warranty the pack which I also explained that they had replaced the pack and told me to simply recycle this one so we repaired it! Hope it helps, Best of luck to ya!
ua-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/v-deo.html
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks so much... I should have taken the time to watch all your video before asking... Nonetheless, thanks for pointing me to the right place.. I'll check the transistor and let you know how I get on.. peace.
@@ThriftyToolShed so you are absolutely spot on, Q12 shorted out... sadly the pack went off to my dealer to be inspected and they let it run out dead... so no recovery for the pack... anywhoo, the later packs are much better, esp the 7,5Ah... makes the 1800 chainsaw pull like crazy. That and a professional bar and chain transform the saw.. Thanks again for your help.
Absolutely. Great work troubleshooting. Too bad the cells pulled down. It is hard to catch this in time especially when sitting around the repair shop like that.
Curious to know, why is there nothing that can be done if the battery has drained near zero? I've got two packs in that situation, and would love to know what, if anything, can be done.
Hi, well usually if all cells are pulled to zero they are at the least very low in capacity. Alot of times the pack will have some cells that may not recover at all and could potentially be hazardous to charge with much current. This is due to the cells reach well below the safe cut off voltage of around 2.7v per cell. Li-ion can not safely be discharged below the 2.7V threshold. Sometimes you get luck with a constant current and constant voltage supply and slowly bringing up the voltage not exceeding 500mA to 1A per cell.
I’ve got a 5ah pack showing 47.2v and blinking red straightaway (no green before blinking red). So I assume I have at least one bad cell, is it worth replacing the single cell?
I mean, for me it's worth it. I also sometimes have replacement cells from other non working packs I have bought off of eBay non working etc.
It's up to you if you have the time, tools and desire to pursue it. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed I went to 5-6 stores checking their recycle boxes and no ego batteries, any suggestion on some generics 18650s from Amazon or some other source to replace the one cell?
You did good checking the bins. I have not found many since the pandemic either. It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
Awesome video, any chance you do repair as a job, would love to send you some batteries to repair. Thanks.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
Are you repairing ego battery packs for the public
Sorry, I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
How common is it for these batteries fail? Were they out of warranty?
I have worked on many of the 1st and 2nd gen packs. None with the fuel gauge yet. ( I consider them the 3rd gen, may not be correct?) I have only had one pack failure so far of my purchased new packs. It was under warranty and I repaired the faulty one that EGO let me keep.( My first EGO repair video) From that point on I purchased several bad ones to learn more about them and I even had a small engine repair shop send me some to learn from and use for parts as needed. From what I have seen, a small percentage of these tend to fail while under warranty, I would guess about 10-20% maybe? Alot of these last past the warranty period up to maybe 5 years, but I wonder if many will make it much past that? I do have some of my original packs that are approaching 5 years old and seem to be fine still. I would imagine getting 8 years out of a pack will be stretching it without working on it.
With lithium packs it's hard to get 10 years out of them, no matter the brand. I look forward to the next platform maybe solid state batteries when alot of the lithium issues are gone. I like how far lithium has come, but it has so many draw backs from heat degredation, overcharged, over discharged and of course the BMS to control all that gets complicated and having 14 cells in series to make 56V makes them much more likely to have issues, of course that's just the 2.5ah. the 5ah has 28 cells and the 7.5ah has 42 cells so I would say the larger packs will have more issues naturally.
Can you help? My 2.5 is only 25%, put on the charger for right to 100%. The top gets warm. It's holding 55.6v.
I have not worked on any packs with the segmented fuel gauge. I myself consider those Gen3 packs? It does seem like a possible BMS issue. It's hard to say really since I have only worked on the older Gen 1 and 2 packs. I have seen similar issues with those and problem is the BMS board. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed I'll uncap tomorrow and try testing the board like you did to see if I can find or see anything. Keep you posted, thanks.
Hello I have a 2.5 ah and battery don’t even turn any light on, pressing the button makes bo different is dead dead, reads 25.74 volts
The voltage on the cells have gone too low if reading 25 -26 volts. You really never want to see below 35V. 14S or 14 cells in series at the lowest allowed voltage safely on the cells in around 2.5V. so 35V minimum to not affect the cells. EGO cuts the pack off around 3V per cell typically so around 42V.
do you repair for others? i have 3 that green light on battery then wheny you use it , it goes red.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
@@ThriftyToolShedwhat a bloody legend. Thanks
I have a 7.5AH that has bricked. I took it apart to see what the issue could be, but I can't fix it, if you're interested in it, I just need shipping to send it to you
I would pay shipping for sure. It would possibly make it's way into a video! You can message me on messenger with the link to my Facebook page about the address and shipping cost. Thanks for considering this as possible video.
facebook.com/weeklywhatisit/
I need someone to repair my 4ah,- the wiring has pulled out of most the connector plugs 😔
Do you have the part nimber of the Q12
The part number is on the chip itself. Mine was MJD117.
I showed some links to these in the very first repair video of the EGO pack. It's been a while hopefully the links are still working.
ua-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/v-deo.htmlsi=Tz9WvN8sPCKD7W9J
Do you sell refurbished EGO batteries?
I do not at this time. I just worked on several to learn from and share what I have learned so far. I may get into that eventually?
I was told by ego that my 56v 2.5amp battery was bad although only one year old and only used three times. They are sending replacement battery. I was wondering if you would know why the charger would blink twice green intermittent while the battery blinks green three times intermittent. The charger fan does not come on and makes a slight buzzing sound which is also intermittent.
Sometimes when a pack is low in voltage the charger will pulse or click like a relay to bump up the pack to a safe level to charge. Unsure if that is what it is or not. If the voltage is below 40V or so it may do that. Surprising that the pack is not showing red though?
@@ThriftyToolShed The charger and battery are behaving strange. I unplugged the charger for 24 hours and retried charging and the battery started charging normally! A few minutes later it shut off and charger blinking steady red. ON Battery nothing. I tried again now back to 3 green flashes on battery and it pauses for about five seconds and flashes 3 times again. It seems to be pulsing like you said but does not make sense that it started charging and then shut off about 4 minutes later. I have a T-15 arriving today and may do some inspection.
@@wally1957 That is weird for sure. Do you have more than one charger and more than one pack? Or is that the only pack and charger you have?
@@ThriftyToolShed Only one of each. I will have a second new battery soon.
@@ThriftyToolShed I really screwed it up now.... Put a 12v jump starter on it to just see what would happen and now it flashes red. Tore into it and it reads 36v total, 2.4v lowest to 2.7v highest. looking at the board I can see nothing abnormal. I will wait for new battery to arrive to see if charger works properly and if so will try to jump new batt to old batt. just to bring it up some to where it might charge again.
Where to recycle old ego batteries? I don't have a need yet. just wondering.
Home Depot has a recycle bin.
You can ship them to me i pay 20 each
I can't find #1, is it still online?
I believe I was calling the 5Ah with the fuse issue the #1. I added videos later on and the video names did not flow the best as I look back at it. I actually ordered all 5Ah packs or atleast eBay seller said they were, but some of them came in 4Ah so that is some confusion in the name including 4Ah and 5Ah. I was originally trying to do a 5Ah video series to start with.
ua-cam.com/video/4NESKJ0beAc/v-deo.htmlsi=k3hq2-aAbNFSL3X4
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you! Maybe an Ego playlist would be nice?
My 56 v batterie fully charged but dose not power weedeater
Is it any power at all or just weak?
If it has no voltage at terminals it could be a blown fuse on the connection board. The trace type fuse is soldered on.
does anyone know what the "D" terminal on the battery pack is for? I tried to connect a 52v ebike battery to my blower and it only runs for a few seconds before shutting down
ua-cam.com/video/H-hggUXgYlU/v-deo.html
This is a video I have about what I know so far about the D-terminal.
Some seem to think differently, I still think it's a communication between the tool and pack.
What is your Ebay repair link?
I do not have a repair link.
I just bought it from eBay to repair.
Just wanted a couple more spare batteries.
@@ThriftyToolShed Ok, thanks. Would be nice if you had a way set up for to mail in donation batteries and/or for repair......
That would be great. I have considered that, but trying not to confuse anyone. I get hundereds of request to repair people's stuff. Of course I have to explain how it's no way I could do them all if I wanted to and with shipping costs it be hard to do it cost effectively. I have in the past wanted to get the people willing to send broken stuff just as a video of the week type thing, but I don't want people sending things and expecting them to be returned. So I been trying to buy a few of broken items and just friends and family items for the time being. Thanks for your comment!
What brand is their battery? Samsung?
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
@@ThriftyToolShed The mAH is easy to determine by using a tester/charger. I bet the manufacturer purposely disguised the battery brand.
Yes I shared using the capacity test in a recent video about Lithium battery FAQ #1. And yes, I also believe they hide the cell info on purpose.
Probably beyond me. I just want to see a simple hay to get my 5.0 AH battery to charge
The new ego 4ah is using 21700 cells
That's awesome!