I figured it was gonna be 700$ I was gonna do some u joints too. This video though, most straight to the point clear automotive how to video I've seen on youtube haha sounds like you're like 17 at the same time. Brought up well obviously. Tell your mom I say happy mother's day Haha.
I took my truck to my school shop to rotate tires and grease ball joints, U-joints, and other zurk fitting on the truck. Just typical maintenance after a while. I checked my drive shaft and have this same problem. I’m going to replace the carrier barring in the next few weeks when we have a better lift open. I’m going to replace the carrier barring and the U joints simultaneously just so I don’t have to take it all apart again. Thanks for the video. Super helpful.
@@Skecheyboy yeah it was interesting. We couldn't find w single video that has the same setup as ours. They all had bolts on both ends. Great job on the content
@@Skecheyboy that’s why they make the drive shaft so modular. Had to do a U joint once too and just pulled the 4 bolts that hold it to the rear diff, and removed just the yoke with the bad U joint. I love these trucks. I think theyre peak technology for what they are and new shit has gone way down hill with all the new electronics, and active fuel management and stuff. Plus even tacomas are pretty large now. It’s nice to have a light truck for a grocery getter/fencing pickup. Can’t think of a better one then a first gen Tacoma.
How come you dont just separate the two halfs and leave the back half bolted to the diff since you have to separate them anyways once the whole thing is off the truck? Just wondering if that's another way to get it done with less disassembly.
I have a 2005 tacoma with a 2.5in lift. I had my center bearing replaced 3 weeks ago. Well the mounting bolts broke off and now the drive shaft is hanging down..... The mechanic who did the job claims its the bind from leaf springs that caused the bolts to break.... Any idea what happened?????0. I never hit anything and I dont off road hard at all...Thanks
hey, first i'm not a mechanic and will be using hand tools. i already checked and greased the U joints so they're good. let me know if i'm wrong but to just replace the carrier it looks like you can leave the front of the driveshaft in place and just drop down the middle section and do the carrier. is that right? and you can put the vehicle in gear to be able to safely torque the 24mm nut, right? i mean, it seems like the torque put on the driveshaft in operation is probably way higher than the torque spec. somebody let me know if i'm good to go with my thinking
If your able to just leave the front part of the driveshaft on, I don’t see a reason why you couldn’t touqe the nut to spec without it spinning as long as you jam like a wrench in the front u-joint m, because it will probably turn over the engine if you don’t, another thing you could do is put it in a high gear and leave it in 4wd that way your locked in
@@Skecheyboy thanks! i was totally able to do the carrier bearing, and also disassemble, clean and re-lube the slip yoke, with only taking down the center section of the driveshaft. and locking the transfer case worked perfectly to break free, then re-torque, the 24mm nut
@@garygogolinski2878 hey IIRC when i dropped the rear section of the driveshaft to do the carrier, i marked the slip yoke so it would go back together the same way. then i just pulled it out, leaving the housing section attached to the rear diff. then i cleaned both halves using brake parts cleaner, and removed the grease fitting. after that i referenced the Timmy the Toolman video, and greased the yoke with the Ford Motorcraft XG8A grease. but don't use too much, cause he ended up blowing out his seal. but a good thing to do no matter what to de-pressurize the newly greased yoke is after reassembly and with the grease fitting (zerk) removed, bounce the rear end up and down to work the yoke so extra grease and air come out. hope this helps
Hey man nice video! I have the same double carbon u joint in the middle but other Tacoma’s same gen don’t, did you replace the u joints?? They seem to all be after market let me know thanks man
Hey man, I did not replace the u joints in the double Cardon. I’ve seen older Toyotas with single driveshaft no centre bearing, but if it has a centre bearing usually has the double cardon. I’ve never had to replace one of them, make sure you grease it a lot and it will be fine.
@@Skecheyboy thanks for the reply, ya i think that’s the problem is I wasn’t aware of it and it looks like you have to grease the center ball bearing on the regular im not a mechanic lol but do you know if you can just replace the ball bearing by itself? It seems that’s the only thing with play it’s pretty bad
Ok so I replaced my Center support bearing on a 2004 Toyota Tacoma and after putting it all back together I'm still getting almost a worse vibration than it was before and I think I lined up everything properly but the one part I am not sure about is after you put on the bearing you have that separate piece that goes on with the splines and then you put the thicker washer and then the lock nut because let's say if I did not Mark where my drive shafts lined up how can I factory reset it
What brand are you buying? Some of the cheaper brands have cheap bearings in them, and they don’t last very long. Other thing is when you get them, they only usually have shipping grease in the bearings, make sure to put some extra grease in the bearings before install
@@Skecheyboy i don’t know what brand but cost me like $80 and we did put grease .. the only thing the mechanic didn’t make it before to take it out the bad one ., how can I do it now later today this morning they going to put it back and I’m afraid 😱 they going to mess up again help please how can I do it right ?
If you weren't gonna change your U joints you could have saved yourself a lot of trouble you don't have to drop the whole drive line to repair the Carrier barrier. Only half.
@@Skecheyboy I have a 2003 xtra cab. 3.4l 4wd and I was wondering if my truck had the same drive shaft as the one in the video. The reserch I've done has given me to different locations for the carrier bearing. Its either directly underthe cross member or its shifted forward a little and mounted to and extended bracket. When I bought my truck some one fabricated a bracket threat shift my carrier bearing forward and I'm just trying to put the original make of drive shaft back in the truck.
Good video but you didn't back it off right. You're supposed to torque it on and then put it in reverse and reverse it then torque it back on. You just turned it back without flicking it in reverse. That doesn't do anything. "LOOSEN" means put in reverse
Why does everybody keep showing that one where it's also simple and easy taking the bolts off and then dropping it down and taking the big knot off that's not the one everybody wants to know about they want to know about the one where you can't get that out of the bushing because there are no way to get to the nut that's on the universal
I was just quoted over 500 dollars for this repair lol. Great detailed video, will be ordering the bearing and doing this myself. Thank you !
Glad you didn’t go and get ripped off lol all those shops and dealerships are the same overpriced. Thanks for watching!!
Skecheyboy
Truth! Found the bearing I needed online for 68.00. Thanks again, and subscribed !
Awesome there will be more Tacoma videos to come!!
I figured it was gonna be 700$ I was gonna do some u joints too. This video though, most straight to the point clear automotive how to video I've seen on youtube haha sounds like you're like 17 at the same time. Brought up well obviously. Tell your mom I say happy mother's day Haha.
Ya I guesse it’s been like a few years since I filmed that, better videos to come lol
hands down best video i've seen about doing this job,not a whole lot of extra information that's not needed thanks.
Your welcome!!
when u had this problem with yr truck when you’d stop would u hear a little thump sound?
Best mechanic do yourself video I've seen yet. Strait to the point. Thank you
Thanks for the comment.
I took my truck to my school shop to rotate tires and grease ball joints, U-joints, and other zurk fitting on the truck. Just typical maintenance after a while. I checked my drive shaft and have this same problem. I’m going to replace the carrier barring in the next few weeks when we have a better lift open. I’m going to replace the carrier barring and the U joints simultaneously just so I don’t have to take it all apart again. Thanks for the video. Super helpful.
Awesome, keep up the maintenance and the truck will be good forever lol. thanks for watching .
Great video, easy to follow you! I need to replace my carrier bearing in my 2002 PreRunner and this definitely saved me some time! Thanks.
Nice video. I appreciate the thoroughness and the good pace. Zero filler.
Thank you for watching!!
Locknut torque
1. Torque to 134 ft-lb
2. Loosen one turn and torque to 60 ft-lb
Driveshaft bolt torque 54 ft-lbs
can u explain this more, how do we know bearing is seated byu doing this?
@@SandduneStepper These are just the torque specs. They won't tell you that the bearing is seated.
Awesome bro. Thanks. Very straightforward with no bs. Cheers.
Incredibly helpful. Thank you so much my friend. Your friend from P.Rico , Edwin
Your welcome sir, thank you for watching.
Damn, I dont have a 24mm socket!.. Thanks for the vid. Off to the store.
Ours was slightly different and was on a tundra 2wd. We had to press one side of the ujoints out under the truck. Made for an interesting experience.
Sounds like a fun time you had for sure, always an interesting experience with these Toyota trucks
@@Skecheyboy yeah it was interesting. We couldn't find w single video that has the same setup as ours. They all had bolts on both ends. Great job on the content
Glad you enjoyed the video!!
Worked good without pulling drive shaft. Just split it at the bearing. That way you can’t unbalance your driveshaft
Great idea!!
@@Skecheyboy that’s why they make the drive shaft so modular. Had to do a U joint once too and just pulled the 4 bolts that hold it to the rear diff, and removed just the yoke with the bad U joint. I love these trucks. I think theyre peak technology for what they are and new shit has gone way down hill with all the new electronics, and active fuel management and stuff. Plus even tacomas are pretty large now. It’s nice to have a light truck for a grocery getter/fencing pickup. Can’t think of a better one then a first gen Tacoma.
That’s sweet man, I appreciate the detailed video. I’m glad I’m not going to need to take the u joints off!
Exellent tutorial. Thank you sir.👍👍
Thanks, buddy, that was awesome. Keep them coming
Thanks for the vid fella. you put great thought into giving all of the necessary information. nicely done.
Glad you enjoyed the video.
When she says she likes bad boys, I use chrome sockets on my impact and drive a Tacoma
Thanks.. you make it look simple 👍🏻
Dude. Nice video. Perfectly made 👍
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed the video
Thanks! I have to do this on my '99.
Great tutorial. To the point. It would have been nice to know the background on how you found the problem. 🤷🏾♂️ But nicely done.
grab the driveshaft at the carrier bearing. push up and down. if it moves up and down the bearing is trashed.
Excellent!
Thank you so much.
Your welcome Sir!!
I think you explain this is it well as it can be thank you
How come you dont just separate the two halfs and leave the back half bolted to the diff since you have to separate them anyways once the whole thing is off the truck? Just wondering if that's another way to get it done with less disassembly.
This is an excellent video, ty.
I have a 2005 tacoma with a 2.5in lift. I had my center bearing replaced 3 weeks ago. Well the mounting bolts broke off and now the drive shaft is hanging down..... The mechanic who did the job claims its the bind from leaf springs that caused the bolts to break.... Any idea what happened?????0. I never hit anything and I dont off road hard at all...Thanks
hey, first i'm not a mechanic and will be using hand tools. i already checked and greased the U joints so they're good. let me know if i'm wrong but to just replace the carrier it looks like you can leave the front of the driveshaft in place and just drop down the middle section and do the carrier. is that right? and you can put the vehicle in gear to be able to safely torque the 24mm nut, right? i mean, it seems like the torque put on the driveshaft in operation is probably way higher than the torque spec. somebody let me know if i'm good to go with my thinking
If your able to just leave the front part of the driveshaft on, I don’t see a reason why you couldn’t touqe the nut to spec without it spinning as long as you jam like a wrench in the front u-joint m, because it will probably turn over the engine if you don’t, another thing you could do is put it in a high gear and leave it in 4wd that way your locked in
@@Skecheyboy thanks! i was totally able to do the carrier bearing, and also disassemble, clean and re-lube the slip yoke, with only taking down the center section of the driveshaft. and locking the transfer case worked perfectly to break free, then re-torque, the 24mm nut
Awesome, glad it worked out man!!
@@johnschaefer4129 how did you re-lube the slip yoke?
@@garygogolinski2878 hey IIRC when i dropped the rear section of the driveshaft to do the carrier, i marked the slip yoke so it would go back together the same way. then i just pulled it out, leaving the housing section attached to the rear diff. then i cleaned both halves using brake parts cleaner, and removed the grease fitting. after that i referenced the Timmy the Toolman video, and greased the yoke with the Ford Motorcraft XG8A grease. but don't use too much, cause he ended up blowing out his seal. but a good thing to do no matter what to de-pressurize the newly greased yoke is after reassembly and with the grease fitting (zerk) removed, bounce the rear end up and down to work the yoke so extra grease and air come out. hope this helps
Awesome work 👏
Thanks for watching!!
And if you don't buy a toyota bearing you will be doing this job again in about a year
Just one correction 24mm is 15/16 not 11/16...
Good catch there thanks for letting me know
Bien hecho Joven, échale ganas
did your truck make a noise when driving? i think this is the same issue with mine but it makes a ticking noise when i drive
Ticking could possibly your u joints, but tipically the centre bearing makes a squalling noise, high pitch kinda sounds.
nice video thanks!
Hey man nice video! I have the same double carbon u joint in the middle but other Tacoma’s same gen don’t, did you replace the u joints?? They seem to all be after market let me know thanks man
Hey man, I did not replace the u joints in the double Cardon. I’ve seen older Toyotas with single driveshaft no centre bearing, but if it has a centre bearing usually has the double cardon. I’ve never had to replace one of them, make sure you grease it a lot and it will be fine.
@@Skecheyboy thanks for the reply, ya i think that’s the problem is I wasn’t aware of it and it looks like you have to grease the center ball bearing on the regular im not a mechanic lol but do you know if you can just replace the ball bearing by itself? It seems that’s the only thing with play it’s pretty bad
They tipically only come as a unit with the bearing and the rubber part with the bracket, but they might sell it on rock auto. I’m not sure.
@@Skecheyboy ya i had to buy a whole new drive shaft but at least I know to grease it about every oil change I here is the best to do it
Thanks heaps, mate 👍
Your welcome!!
Thanks for video
Ok so I replaced my Center support bearing on a 2004 Toyota Tacoma and after putting it all back together I'm still getting almost a worse vibration than it was before and I think I lined up everything properly but the one part I am not sure about is after you put on the bearing you have that separate piece that goes on with the splines and then you put the thicker washer and then the lock nut because let's say if I did not Mark where my drive shafts lined up how can I factory reset it
Factory reset a drive shaft hahaha
Do you use loctite on the bolts?
What kind of grease did you add into the bearing? Mine is partway packed with clear grease that looks like silicone.
I used a good EP (extreme pressure) grease, wheel bearding gease will work good as well.
Nice
Excelent video!!!! thanks!!!
Your very welcome sir!!
Thank you!💪💪
👍👍... Mantab
Awesome vidja
That came apart to easy
Hi I have a question why I burn 🔥 two those ., I change it twice and I don’t know what is the problem.?
What brand are you buying? Some of the cheaper brands have cheap bearings in them, and they don’t last very long. Other thing is when you get them, they only usually have shipping grease in the bearings, make sure to put some extra grease in the bearings before install
@@Skecheyboy i don’t know what brand but cost me like $80 and we did put grease .. the only thing the mechanic didn’t make it before to take it out the bad one ., how can I do it now later today this morning they going to put it back and I’m afraid 😱 they going to mess up again help please how can I do it right ?
@@Skecheyboy hi 👋 I bought those in Napa auto parts they sale good parts ?
I installed mine was a Dorman brand, 1.5 years later no problems, I would try to get a better quality one and it will work.
Go to a drive line shop and get a solid drive line. It eliminates the Carrier bearing and the cardane joint if you have one.
If you weren't gonna change your U joints you could have saved yourself a lot of trouble you don't have to drop the whole drive line to repair the Carrier barrier. Only half.
How?
torque values the same for a 5 lug?
Yes!!
What year of tacoma is this video covering?
This is covering 95:5-04 Tacoma pre Tacoma’s are similar and 2nd; 3rd gen May be a bit different
@@Skecheyboy I have a 2003 xtra cab. 3.4l 4wd and I was wondering if my truck had the same drive shaft as the one in the video. The reserch I've done has given me to different locations for the carrier bearing. Its either directly underthe cross member or its shifted forward a little and mounted to and extended bracket. When I bought my truck some one fabricated a bracket threat shift my carrier bearing forward and I'm just trying to put the original make of drive shaft back in the truck.
Calmly fixing your tacoma. Lol😁
Facts dude
The center nut on my driveshaft will not come off
Literally moving the entire truck took driveshaft off and still nothing
The 24 mm?
24mm=15/16",11/16" =17mm
Good video but you didn't back it off right. You're supposed to torque it on and then put it in reverse and reverse it then torque it back on. You just turned it back without flicking it in reverse. That doesn't do anything. "LOOSEN" means put in reverse
What r u talking about
Why does everybody keep showing that one where it's also simple and easy taking the bolts off and then dropping it down and taking the big knot off that's not the one everybody wants to know about they want to know about the one where you can't get that out of the bushing because there are no way to get to the nut that's on the universal
cant hear you
The whole video?
Guesse not..
U must be deaf then