BNB 80 Ep. 6 || 1FZ Turbo Engine Build
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
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Let be honest... Everyone wanted a Barra swap but I have decided to do something a little different!!
Lets see how much power we can get out of the little 1FZ
In this Episode, I tackle my first ever engine build solo :)
Please SUBSCRIBE & ENJOY :)
Follow the Adventure!
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Thank you Sam for filming all this and uploading it all to UA-cam. I don't have a 4by but want to get one, would not be able to afford a new one. If I ever pull my finger out and buy ollused vehicle I would want to strip and rebuild it. Without videos like yours I otherwise wouldn't have a clue where to start, you're videos actually make it seem possible.
Imagine coming out of a 2 year coma and opening up youtube to watch Sam firstly in QLD, Building a Turbo Toyota motor to put into a Cruiser. So sick dude can't wait to start stockpiling bits for my own 1FZ-FTE build.
What is a 1fz fte?
@@maxratzlaff8333 The engine in this video.
Who needs a Barra? Killer build man 👌🏻
Oil the pistons for assembly. Also you should’ve checked the “crush” of the bearings. Torque caps on rods and Big Ends, then loosen one bolt and measure how much it opens up. Not enough crush will cause bearings to spin.
That untapped bolt would have me absolutely fuming hahaha what a stitch up
Micrometer 😂😂
Dial indicator bro but love your work
Always great for a laugh and so laid back
Nice work fella
As an engine refurbisher, all you engine videos hurt me
What's the problem? I'm being serious for when I build one
Hey Sam with head studs you put ball bearing in hole so studs are all the same length and that sorts out your nut height when doing up
This build is next level
1:48 real smooth sammy
Boioioinggg
Sam boutta be the new hectic habib
Bro that’s sick as love your work keep it up hope I see you on Saturday👌🏼🤙🏼
same, i’m going to be there as well🤙🤙
harmonic balancer bolts are always fun, the one on my td5 is 460Nm ended up bribing a heavy diesel apprentice to come out and use his employer's one.
Great to see it all in person man, looks the goods! Gonna be beast!
You should’ve torqued the crank bearing caps when you plasti gauged them. Otherwise how do you know if they r to tight or loose
Make sure the rings are up the right way they have a top and bottom of the compression ring
I really try not to get hung up on terminology, but this has been driving me insane.
The little gauge with a dial on it that you used to measure end float and find TDC is, oddly enough, called a 'Dial Gauge'.
A micrometer is used to measure the thickness of something.
And the green stuff used to measure the clearance in the big end, we use to call plasti gauge, go figure.
kennym
Well there ya go! 😂😂
@Richard Cayson cmon man xD couldnt be more fake
@@deetyb1691 nah mate works but gotta pay $20 aud
Cool story bro
Love the build, but that ain’t a micrometer brother hahah, that’s a dial indicator!
The machinist in me twitches every time he said it
Bloody mint video yet again!
Learn a lot watching your vids mate 🔥 Keep it up
Cheers legend! 🤘🤘
I don't know what ARP have to say about it But you are slightly less likely to strip out a head stud if you use thread locker instead of grease. The threads on a bolt/stud do not make perfect contact, only about 30 to 70% of the surface of the threads engage each other depending on the quality of the machining and the wear on the threads. Grease or lube is often frowned on as it can cause false torque readings and allow a stud or bolt to come loose especially as the heat causes the grease to leak out of the thread or hydrolocking the bore could strip the threads or crack the bore.
Thread locker even low strength ones have been shown to increase the holding power of a thread as the glue fills the gaps between threads and chemically bonds the two surfaces together.
I've seen the test videos. I forget the actual numbers but a bolt that stripped out at 1500kg dry held to 2200kg with high strength locker on it.
Maddest engine build
Can't wait to see this beast this weekend
nice work man!! congrats from BARCELONA!!
Video was mint!! Loved it
props for bringing the panel 80 series to the 4x4show
So much involved doing and engine good luck 4 the rest of the build I enjoy it thanks
Hey mate, not sure if anyone has said this yet, but I’m fairly sure on this motor, if the crank
Bolt is not set to a high enough torque setting you can have oil pressure issues, worked on one of these (turbo aswell) was having oil pressure dramas, sure enough, torqued crank to the specific amount and boom pressure was restored.
Just an FYI if you didn’t know already, HAPPY BUILDING
For the head studs I'm guessing over $1000?
can you off road with a 2wd ute. got this old 2003 holden rodeo single cab looking to do some light off roading
Should of got a 4WD
This build is gonna be sick
I’ve seen engine builders put ball bearings in the head bolt holes to space the studs to level them. I’d say it’s so it still bottoms out on something.
I think when your cruiser is done, could be a good match for my tb48 turbo patrol
Love yr work SAM MAAN. BLESS YA
Keen to see this rig finished!
Loving the content mate keep it up 🙌🤘
After you bottom the headstuds out in the block, I hope you turned the headstuds back 1/4 of a turn to allow for expansion. If you didn't you might damage your block.
You don't bottom out the 1fz head studs
@@minicrawlnkid i know. did you read what I said?
He said he backed them out if you watch the whole vid, just for the nuts to get enough thread so I imagine it's a little more than a 1/4
@@ddgarage7025 i thought he only backed the one out. Thanks for that bro
For anyone listening @2:41 the bore in inches is not 1.957", it is 3.937" or 100mm. The calculation for ring gap is correct. (3.937x0.005) = 0.0196 or 20 thousandths.
Lol high quality multi layer head gaskets have been nothing but trouble cause mad pinging and pre combustion
about time , easily the cruiser engine
You are a inspiration , love your work Sam
🙂🙂🙂👌👌
You could put a small ball bearing under each head stud to raise the height slightly
So sick mate 😎👌🏼
I have a 1994 fzj80 on 37s I was going to swap an LS, this is way cooler, I’m changing my plan.... Are you going to publish a part list?
good build mate,,,, i'd reckon 845 smackas for the head studs
you really should torque that down correctly. if you have buy or borrow the right torque wrench. That is connected to the oil pump, if that falls off, your engine is screwed.
Can’t wait till the build is done, yewwww🤟😈👌
As "BIG KEV" would say *IM EXCITED*
nice covers
Saw you at the 4wd show and shit man that motor looks insane , Keen to see the 80 fully build
The 80 is gonna be so shmick!🔥
What a beast. 👍👍
So torque em up is just tightening them?
can't wait to see the end result weapon
BNB. Could you do a double row chain ? It would be better for more power, as one thinks the bearings will get heaps of load and obviously fully-forged pistons ! V.
Ring filing method scared me for something that's critical in engine building. Especially a turbo.
Gday Sam, finally home to watch a video on time
Hahah yewww!
I applaud your patience brother no way I could do this without spitting the dummy
Y'all should try making a mini gu out of a 1st Gen Rav4 or something
Looking like a sick cheeseburger 🍔 yewww
Free when ya sponsored Sammy 😝😝
Sam I don't know if you've seen that TJ Jack fella on UA-cam but rumour has it he's the brother of Malcolm Douglas, 1st cousin of Graham Cahill & illegitimate love child of the Leyland Brothers. That's just what I heard on the grapevine.
Love the video , cheers mate
$845 for the studs.. I know because I just used a set myself.
Great video Sam, entertaining as always keep up the great work Legend 👍👍
Can u remember the part #?
#Barratheworld .....lol
Can't go wrong with Spool. Had the forgies and h-beam rods in my AU 4L I swapped into my SWB Maverick 4by.....
Dont back the studs out. Put a small ball bearing in the hole then bottom out the stud
Awesome video mate I don’t know if it’s been commented but with the head studs it usually need to be nipped up to a certain amount or at least bottom out and when the bore is too deep common practice is to put the correct size packing usually a ball bearing to bring it up to the right height. Also very disappointing and pretty embarrassing on ARP’s part for an unthreaded nut.
Did you do just one clearance or all of them
Awesome video, when you’re ready to help me rebuild a 12ht for some semi stock power let me know! Epic effort and some awesome content!!
How much did the engine package cost you?
Can u do a full rundown of all the parts u used
.0025” seems too tight for end float should be more around .005” - .010” I reckon
Are you getting the exhaust manifold ceramic coated?
Hottttt put some pittys on the 80
Did you lube the cylinder walls before you put pistons in? Didn't see it on camera. Good stuff though! Keep it up.
Yeah I wondered that
big turbo
412nm = 19 Ugga Duggas with the rattle gun
The last ARP stud I bought were $860 trade.... retail over 1k
If the End Float had of been too much how would you have fixed it?
The thing your using to measure the top of the piston is called a "Dial Indicator" a micrometer is used to measure the OD (oustide diameter) in most situations. However there are also micrometers you can use to measure the ID (inside diameter) and depth of things as well. Just so you can fix your terminology
Watch out. I'm not sure but in the video it looked like you forgot the two dowel pins that perfectly align the head on the bottom end. I might be wrong but maybe just double check on your footage to be sure.
I’ll have a check through the footage! 👌🏼👌🏼 cheers
@@speyles alright let me know when you find out. I focused on that because it totally has never happened to me and I did not have to take my engine apart again😉😅
"Asking for a mate" 😃
Dial indicator not micrometer but love the vid 👌🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Think your process for finding TDC was a bit out. The point where the indicator moved isn't TDC. You needed to find the mid point between the 2 positions where the dial indicator stopped moving.
That’s what he did...
Soooootooootoootooo
not a micrometer its a dial indicator!! engine looks sick
Aww wow didn't kno u built these things wholly hek how deadly as
My guess for the studs would be $1200 or something
When your looking for something else then see a video posted eight minutes ago 😂
Pressure from the crank bolt is what drives the oil pump gear. Thats why its 10 thousand ugga dugga's
My 70 series has a similar engine
Great build. Please wear safety glasses when spraying chemicals into holes then blasting it out with an air gun.
Definitely would have used some molnar spray on the gasket
Those lobes look very pointy, valves mustn’t open very long
1400 for the studs ?
I'm guessing the head studs cost somewhere around $600usd
full turbo
You should not use the torque wrench over it's range to add 90° to the bolts, as it can damage it
lookin clean
Plasti gauge the rod bearings ?
Did I just see you put the head on without the dowels!?!
Any reason why you went with the 1fz instead of the 1hd-fte?
petrol
Don’t like diesel
Because a reliable 450HP 1FZ costs less than a 200HP dieslow.