As a business owner, this is excellent training for techs. I learned a lot from the you sir and I use the schematic like you to diagnose. This save me time and money. However, some guy just don't get it. Thank you and keep up the good work!
An elegant example of how to make use of electrically equivalent points in practical problems. It saved time and possible, unnecessary damage to the unit during dismantling.
Son of the Samurai, I don't have the Low Voltage button but when using my multimeter Always used the AC volts setting to check and also Carry an analog meter to double ck. Redundant but efective way to make sure voltage is the correct one. Thanks for your tips.
TB is connected to L1. TX is connected Neutral. If there was continuity between TB and TX you would have a dead short. The only way L1 meets Neutral is at a load (the motor, in this case).
We do this at your own pace at our online training academy, Master Samurai Tech. We teach these skills in our Core Appliance Repair Training course: mastersamuraitech.com/online-appliance-repair-courses/core-appliance-repair-training-course/
Chris Bateman because he is testing for 120 V so he can determine if he has a working fuse on that L line. He is not testing the timer at all. As far as he know the timer is not an issue. In sum he uses the neutral for the timer and the L line for the timer tho chec the voltage differential if there is not then I either he has not voltage coming to the dryer or the fuse is blown.
Could you unplug the dryer then check continuity from line 1 on the terminal itself and tx? That or prong on cord to line one and tx? Pull connection from tv and check continuity from prong to spade fitting?
Great question, Dave! No, the 30 amp fuse is a LINE fuse, not a thermal fuse. A Line fuse opens in response to excess amps. A thermal fuse opens in response to excess heat (BTUs). They are two different mechanisms.
Master Samurai, is it enough to determine that the fuse is the issue... or should we check grounding to determine why the fuse blew...in the bushido tradition?
As a business owner, this is excellent training for techs. I learned a lot from the you sir and I use the schematic like you to diagnose. This save me time and money. However, some guy just don't get it. Thank you and keep up the good work!
An elegant example of how to make use of electrically equivalent points in practical problems. It saved time and possible, unnecessary damage to the unit during dismantling.
Son of the Samurai, I don't have the Low Voltage button but when using my multimeter Always used the AC volts setting to check and also Carry an analog meter to double ck.
Redundant but efective way to make sure voltage is the correct one. Thanks for your tips.
Could you have used continuity (with power disconnected) on TB/TX? Thank you for taking the time explaining schematics. Very helpful!
TB is connected to L1. TX is connected Neutral. If there was continuity between TB and TX you would have a dead short. The only way L1 meets Neutral is at a load (the motor, in this case).
Thanks great vid and explanation
Ok, now that we know the fuse is blown, what are some of the reasons why the fuse would blow? Thanks!
I love it thanks for the lecture
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good stuff as always.
I have 120v between Tb and Tx. Tested door switch, high limit thermo, thermostat but dryer won’t start! 😢
Dear Sir,can you have explane basic reading ,power and control ,how to understand ....?
We do this at your own pace at our online training academy, Master Samurai Tech. We teach these skills in our Core Appliance Repair Training course: mastersamuraitech.com/online-appliance-repair-courses/core-appliance-repair-training-course/
Could you not just check for continuity on the timer line?
Chris Bateman nop That would be testing resistance across two terminals of the timer.
@@abaenaful right but why couldn't you just check the resistance?
Chris Bateman because he is testing for 120 V so he can determine if he has a working fuse on that L line. He is not testing the timer at all. As far as he know the timer is not an issue. In sum he uses the neutral for the timer and the L line for the timer tho chec the voltage differential if there is not then I either he has not voltage coming to the dryer or the fuse is blown.
Could you unplug the dryer then check continuity from line 1 on the terminal itself and tx?
That or prong on cord to line one and tx?
Pull connection from tv and check continuity from prong to spade fitting?
Was that a restricted exhaust vent to qualify for multiple offender status?
Great question, Dave! No, the 30 amp fuse is a LINE fuse, not a thermal fuse. A Line fuse opens in response to excess amps. A thermal fuse opens in response to excess heat (BTUs). They are two different mechanisms.
Master Samurai, is it enough to determine that the fuse is the issue... or should we check grounding to determine why the fuse blew...in the bushido tradition?