Whirlpool Dryer Not Running - The Motor
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2018
- Whirlpool Dryer Not Running - The Motor
Replacement parts amzn.to/3P4BQDR - paypal.me/Angeltheapplianceman
Warning: You can use the information in this video at your own risk - Навчання та стиль
I've watched dozens of repair videos and I have to say this was one of the most helpful and straightforward I've seen. Excellent job! Just saved me a motor purchase.
You are the man Senior..... no commercials or fund me please, etc. Thanks for your time Ill try and pay forward !!!
That switch was the problem with my motor. It has very simple leaf springs with contacts at the ends. My springs had relaxed over the years, so the switch wouldn't move sometimes when that cog on the motor shaft moved. You can test it with the motor off by just pushing that round cog on the motor shaft away from the switch. If the switch swing arm doesn't move some times, that's your problem. Two screws and that switch comes off and practically falls open. So I just used a little screw driver to push the locking tab to the side of each contact and plyers to pull each one out. A few minutes with a file or sand paper on the dirty contacts and put a bit more bend in the spring so it pushes against the contact with more force. Put it back together. Works like a champ. Thanks for the great video so I can run the motor on the bench.
Angel is the best appliance repairman anyone could ask for and a wonderful person. I had a major problem with my Maytag washer that I've had for 23 years. If it wasn't for Angel's expertise and professional guidance the old Maytag would have hit the scrapyard. Instead it is running like the day I picked it up from the appliance store. Angel is a straight shooter, very professional, highly knowledgeable and a great fellow American! There aren't too many genuine people like him left.
Thank you Jason
Thank you! I have a fried belt switch, after replacing the controller board, which got rid of the error code, but before I go ordering parts, I wanted to make sure that the jolt of volts that apparently melted the switch didn't kill the motor, as well. You made this simple.:)
I watched 3 videos and yours was the easiest way to check. Come to find out a long screw was in the impeller of the motor causing the motor to hum. Check your impeller.
Many thanks Angel. You're AWESOME. You explain this that even a dummy around electricity like me can understand how to do this. Gracias.
Thank you, you have a new SUBSCRIBER.. very straight forward with great explanations and no waisted time, straight to the points.. BRAVO MY FRIEND
Thank you Angel for this video...just what I needed to watch!! I was about to pull out my hair, until I stumbled upon you! You now have a new subscriber. Very professional, knowledgeable, and most of all timely! Great job, brother!!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Angel, I thought it was the motor but now I confirmed it actually works.
Another thank you for your efforts in sharing. Very good tutorial.
Thanks for sharing this video. It's clear and straight to the point.
Thank you, very clear and concise.
Thank you Angelo. this was a great video. Exactly what I was looking for you have a new subscriber
THank You So Much LOVE IT.
GREAT IDEAS
JUST A NOTICE!!! My dryer would not start. I checked everything, EVERYTHING, before taking it apart to test the motor. When I had performed the continuity test on the white & blue wire connect and then the white & black wire connect into the motor switch, everything was good. SO!! I did a VOLTAGE TEST where I put a jump wire for the door switch to mimic the door being closed. I put my multimeter on ACV 250. I plugged the dryer in. Set the timer to heat dry and pushed the start switch. BOO-YAH!!! It worked. So then I removed the multimeter probes from the connection and tried the start switch again. It is still working.
APPARENTLY when I had pushed those probes into the wire harness, I snugged up a loose wire. EVERYONE told me that it was VERY rare that a motor would go bad on a Whirlpool dryer, especially a 3 year old dryer.
I was about to load this dryer up and take it to a parts shop to put a new motor in. WHEW!!! Saved a few hundred dollars by checking everything.
I love you🎉 Thank you!
Thank you, this was very helpful.
nice thank you
Well done video!
Very informative videos. New subscriber here. Thanks.
Very helpful!! Thank you Sir!!!
I have the same motor, the issue I am having is that it is not drying well, I checked the timer, the two thermostats, the heating coil, the fuse and all is good, gave it a good cleaning but was wondering if the motor can be oiled or if it can be given a new replacement kit or something, since I took the whole dryer apart. Got confused with the wiring on the 4 and 5 terminals.
Good information
Thank you
Very good ❤
Thanks
Contacts 3 and 5 are the START winding, correct? 5/6 and 1/2 are the RUN windings?
This dx worked for us.
The odd thing about the motor was it started. Then the second time the motor did the thing that made us pull it out of the machine. It would hum like it wanted to run and going to start, but it never spun. So that tells me the motor is bad but it sun up every time I plugged it in after. So now I’m wondering if I’m thinking correctly. Any ideas?
Quick question: "Anyone". The 4+5 terminals powered in this motor test, (my Maytag dryer) the 2 wires are colored white, and green. The grn one is grounded directly to the motor frame. The white one runs from the motor, thru the door sw, back to the heating element and out, and terminates at the power cord grd. Can't figure how this test makes the motor run, by powering it w/ 120V. My motor initially quit, but runs with this test. ?????
Does it matter whether you use hot or cold
Kenmore dryer110.26832692, Whirlpool 39767007 dryer motor: Is this test good to do on the mines? There are 6 terminal connection. 26 435 1
Is 4 and 5 the terminal okay to use? Or different numbered terminals? Bench testing the motor outside. Best videos, Love your videos Angel!
This work on 220 electric dryer motors or only gas dryer 110 motors?
Gas or electric dryer use the same 120 volts motor
terminal # 4 = hot ( + ) / terminal # 5 = neutral ( -- )
You know nothing about them, whey I keep it running for one hour??? You can check the current to see if it's bad, also, you will smell it.
I'm curious,,, if you possess so much knowledge of dryer motors why are you watching?
Have a good day!
No no no. This is very dangerous. Do not do it this way.
Explain why. It would be more helpful than saying don't do it this way.
We can see this gentleman demonstrated how to test a dryer motor. No harm came to him or his shop.
If you don't feel safe doing it,,, by all means don't do it. But please don't insult this kind gentleman in his area of expertise.
I politely suggest you comment on things you are familiar with.
I'm most handy working with my hands. But, I can certainly identify someone who is speaking when perhaps they should just quietly walk away.
Have a better day, I will...
Thank you very much,I learnt a lot from your video
For more free videos you could check my
Channel : ua-cam.com/channels/eO4F41uVUYsfMRW42D8f0g.html?view_as=public
Or my Website : www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/
Thank You
Angel theapplianceman
Hi Angel. I'm a big fan of your videos. I've been having the strangest issue with my Kenmore dryer since April and even with changing nearly every part, the problem still exists. The dryer runs about 20 degrees hotter than it should. On the low heat setting, the temp gets up to 145 when it should be around 125. The high heat gets up to 165. I've changed the heating element, timer, felt seals, foam seals, drum glides, support rollers, belt, motor, blower wheel, thermal fuse, thermal cutoff, cycling thermostat and hi limit thermostat. The dryer ducts are squeaky clean of lint. For some odd reason, it still runs a bit hot. Before April, my clothes use to come out soft and cool to the touch. Now they come out stiff, warm and have also shrunken a bit. This was not the case before April. Just bizarre that everything has been changed with new FSP parts and this issue hasn't been solved. The only items I haven't replaced are the start switch and wiring harness. Ever run into this issue before? Thanks, Joe
Joe if you send me your phone number at appliance-man@chanter.net I could give you a call
Thanks. One idea would be to mount the motor on wooden jaws of a bench vice.
That is a good idea B blod
Muchas gracias por su video. Esta bien explicado. Para esa prueba No necesita el capacitor.
Ese motor no usa capacitador
Does this motor use a start or run capacitor?
No capacitor on this motor
You never told us which wire was hot and which was neutral.
Which wire goes where?
If yo apply 120 ac volts between terminal 4 and 5 with the test cord and the motor is good the motor should run.
@@theapplianceman hot goes to terminal 4 and neutral goes to terminal 5. It's a 120 v motor so wire placement makes a difference, doesn't it?
@@Pilesofwetsocks Thanks Greg!