Easy Finless or Flangeless Window Install
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- In this video I go through the process of installing a custom window into an existing frame where a through-the-wall AC unit was removed.
The best, most affordable option to fill in this hole in the wall, was with a window. The window was about $260.
This window is under a covered porch. There is a privacy wall that blocks the wind and most of the weather, so a finless window was a great option.
After the demo, I rebuilt the box around the inside of the framing. I built out cleats on each side and shimmed the widow to level. The gaps were filled with spray foam and caulk. cleats were built out around all of the gaps to secure the window in place. As the last step, casing was installed.
The correct way to ice that cake would've been to install an exterior trim that extends from the correct window jamb margins tight against the J channel, properly primed and painted at both sides and caulked with an urethane modifed acrylic sealant.
Hi there Mr. Foster. Thank you for watching and your constructive input. You're certainly not wrong.
I'd probably even add that I'd normally put butyl rubber backed window flashing "properly" overlapped around the parameter of jam as well. If the window wasn't under a roof/under a covered porch, I'd have also have added correct "Z" channel to the top and bottom of the window trim. If only, I would have been able to/had the time to track down a siding match, the gap would have absolutely been tighter.
I certainly appreciate your comment. Please feel free to view my other videos and let the world know what you think! :)
-Mat W/1T
bro used interior trim on the exterior lol
I noticed that you didn't foam the bottom of the window, any particular reason. I'm installing a basement window, I'm assuming I would have too.
Hi there Ray. Thanks for the comment!
So, I did actually foam the bottom of the window. I'm not sure if I just didn't shoot it, or I figured it was implied. The only reason not to is if the window is too tight to get the nozzle in. Then I would use a lot of caulk. In this case, I had the window sitting on the shims and put the foam around the sides and top. As the foam expands it can knock everything out of level so I wait until right before I button everything up to put the foam in the bottom.
Apologies for the late response! Thanks again for watching and the comment.
-Mat W/1T
no screws in the picture window? how is that thing secured in the opening?
Hey there, thanks for the question.
The window is centered and held in place with polyurethane foam (glued). Additionally, the the surrounding frame that I built out, nailed and caulked hold the window in place laterally.
This particular window is located under an awning and isn't really exposed to that much weather. I've used this technique to set smaller windows in concrete foundations as well.
Thanks again, and thanks for watching!
What about the huge gap between the trim and siding????
No Water seal?
Hello Mr. Reisweber. Thank you for watching and your comment.
I placed this window into a hole in the wall that was knocked out for an in-the-window AC unit to slide into. I don't believe there was much of a weather seal for the AC unit. The AC unit had been removed for a year or two prior to my repair and replaced with a loose piece of styrofoam and cardboard duct taped in.
The original plan was to fill the hole and replace the siding. Unfortunately, I was unable to match the siding so the next most simple solution was to simply plug with a window. I did so with spray foam and caulking. In this instance Polyethylene foam and caulk are certainly a better water seal than cardboard.
The opening is located under the roof of a porch. It receives little to no weather, moisture of any kind nor direct sunlight. There are thousands of solutions out there to accomplish what needed to be repaired here. The homeowner knows that I will replace any part of my work that she is dissatisfied with or fails. In fact she recently called me back to do another job for her.
Thanks again for watching. Good luck with your projects.
-Mat W/1T
You’re a good craftsman Matt!
I would emphasize that this type of install is only going to work on areas where windows are not exposed to the elements which this seems to be the case. I would highly discourage installing no fin windows even though a lot of big window dealers recommend it. They just don’t hold up over time. Multiple layers of water proofing is the way to go.
Hey nathanielb! Thank you for the compliment and comment!
I do agree! I prefer to use a flanged window in all exterior instances. The big problem here was that I was unable to match the exterior siding. Yes! lot's of butyl window flashing.
Thanks for watching!
-M@ W/1T
It looks good but I am confused why you left such a gap between the J channel and the window?
You need the Gap because there's always movement from a house expansion and contraction if you put the windows too tight it'll break
That's not what he means. He's referring to the exterior siding j channel
Hi there Crazon34. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching the video.
I installed this window to fill a hole that was put in the wall for an air conditioner. The original handyman who cut the hole and installed the air conditioner over cut the siding and left that gap. Part of the reason I didn't just match the siding, fill the hole and finish the interior with drywall was that I couldn't find that particular style of siding during COV 19 weirdness. I didn't touch the siding at all. I just filled the hole with an efficient window. :) The window was ALSO difficult to get at that time.
Thanks again for watching!
-Mat W/1T
I certainly understand. Great job sir! @@Mat-W-1TFandF
That's an easy answer -because nobody gives a crap about fit and finish these days. The "original handyman" didn't care, the "FandF dude" didn't care and likely the homeowner doesn't know the difference. Plenty of money, plenty of effort, plenty of excuses and still the house has been hacked and will take on water like a sifter in a swimming pool.
Nice Install Matt!!
Thank you. I've got mixed reviews on this vid. The main thing that I think folks aren't aware of is that the window is under a fixed overhang roof.
not fair, When I cut boards, they are still too short, no MATter how many times I cut them.
You must have built something with your dad. That was his favorite joke too. :)
What material did you use for the jams? I have a large picture window to install and it’s my first time doing one and I noticed there’s no where to screw anything at all. So I’m gonna have to do jams like you did here
Hey there Jordan thanks for watching and the comment.
I used MDF in this install. As I mentioned in several comments below, this was a very well protected window under an awning that wouldn't see any weather.
I would use solid wood material (Rip down 2x4s), PVC, or Hardie composite exterior material if I were to install this in a spot that will get a lot of exposure to weather and sunlight. Be sure to use window wrap as added precaution. Window sills are prone to rot, so a quality paintable siliconized caulk is a good idea as well.
I hope that answers your questions. I'm happy to help you out if you need anything further.
Thanks again for watching and the comment!
-Mat W/1T
If it can, it will ha
Hey there Silas. Ya mon. :)
how is the water suppose to drain if you cover the weep holes with that framing?
Hey there jgonz. Thanks for watching.
That's a valid question. This window was installed under a covered deck. It receives little, if any, moisture at all. If it would have been exposed I would have made the reveal larger and added Butyl flashing. This one is the "easy" window install. :) I typically use a flanged windows in areas of heavy weather as well.
Thanks again for watching and thanks for the comment!
-Mat W/1T
@@Mat-W-1TFandFthanks. You answered my question. I see an awful lot of these flangeless windows at Lowe’s. I can’t imagine using these things on an exterior application where the wall will receive driving rainstorms
That window was significantly undersized, even after you built out the opening of the frame with more wood. I think you did the best you could assuming you weren't the one that ordered that window in the first place. Normally you would want about 1/4" between the window and the opening to allow for movement and even after the build out yours was significantly larger.
Also from a safety standpoint, you absolutely need to put your riving knife back on your table saw. Those long rips you took with that trim material were incredibly dangerous and if you haven't gotten injured before from doing similar rips it will almost certainly happen someday. Even if you're not gonna use your blade guard at least keep the riving knife in the table saw. Clearly you know something about safety as you're using a push stick, hearing protection, and eye protection but please be more careful in the future.
This dude is just begging for controversy. Maybe thats how he get likes and comments. This house is going to rot to the foundation after a few years! HACK!
Are you fricking serious??? You left that window that way???
What are the worst installs I’ve ever seen
Hey there dromans615. Thanks for watching my video and leaving a comment. Please subscribe to my channel and leave MORE comments on my other installs, home repair and construction techniques!
-Mat W/1T F&F