I have been watching your videos for over 8 years and you are always my reference, you are so methodical and precise. I cannot thank you enough for sharing your knowledge.
I'm not sure which is better. You're projects, or your video making skills. Both are amazing, and it's what keeps me coming back looking for more. Thanks, Matthias!
When I measured the shrinkage and expansion of various woods, the exotics showed a bit less of it than domestic species. I actually did some original research on this. Also, I oriented it so that the radial grain direction is horizontal. Radial shrinkage is generally a bit less than tangential.
Love this design and building method. Matthias, do you ever run into swelling runners in humid weather? When it rains here, my sleds get really "sticky".
I just finished rebuilding a ten inch Craftsman 113 table saw from the 50's. Very solid, smooth and powerful. My experience using table saws is limited(normally I'm a metal worker) so I'm taking a crash course before attempting any projects. This was a great video, I'll check out your others. Liked and subscribed.
Great video on the new smaller sled, now that is one I can use for my saw table. Glad to see you designed one for those of us that do not need the larger size.
Two guide rails would be twice as string. That's the advantage. But more likely to jam with seasonal wood shrinkage. With the close fit I made for the one bar, jamming with seasonal changes would be almost inevitable.
I love how precise and well planned all your projects are. I am always impressed with your attention to detail & creative engineering. Very inspiring. I had no plans to build a sled like yours, but I think I just might give it a try now.
It's really incredible what you're able to do with a table saw and a little ingenuity. I'm not into wood cutting and I probably never will be, but that was a very interesting, informative, and well made video, and I watched the whole friggin thing. You put everything in there that needed to be. No more, no less. Bravo sir, bravo.
one of the biggest things that put this "single runner" design above the rest, is when you rotated the sled around 180 degrees. The added functionality makes this superior to what I'm calling a "double runner" design. in addition to the added functionality, this design is also significantly smaller than the other sleds. Thank you for sharing your ideas.
Because it allows the fences to be conveniently short when making crosscuts through the slot, but if you want to raise the blade to make a deep cut, you can flip the sled around (and not cut through your fences).
Hi Matthias, I too was curious about the hinged thingy on your wonderful small sled; which brought me to this video; where you remark on the reliability of framing squares. All of your videos teach me something about methods of work, I'm dazzled by your shop built tools; and the privilege of watching your inventiveness always lifts me up. By way of recompense I'd like to share an old trick for checking and truing a steel framers. Forgive me if this is something you already know. To read the accuracy of a framers you need a board with a straight edge that is at least twice the length of the body and somewhat wider than the length of the tongue. A fair square cut on a piece of 3/4 ply will suffice. Lay the body against the edge with the tongue placed so you can flip the square and still have complete registration of the body on the board edge. Strike a thin pencil line from the crook to the end of the tongue. Flip the square over and strike another thin pencil line from the edge (at the original mark) again from the crook to the end of the tongue. If they align exactly the square is true. If they diverge, the divergence is twice the error of the square. Scribe a thin straight line from the heel to the crook. To widen the square use a fine point punch and strike a point on that line (not too hard) about 1/4 the way from the crook to the heel. To constrict the square strike a point on that line about 1/4 the way from the heel to the crook. Check again until you have the alignment. Note: this will not work with some older/antique squares. Back in the day some of them were tempered. These can only be trued by grinding. Aluminum framing squares are adequate for drywall and don't need to be square.
Wow, this is the first video where I see the way to build a sled that I use myself. I will have finished my 1000th sled by christmas. This method is easy, fast and accurate.
Matthius I think I have watched all of your vids and some repeatedly, I love the fact you work in thousands of and inch but found you also work in smidgins. Now that I find you are working in the same measurements as I work in I feel more confident and able to follow and make some of your projects. Joking apart please keep up the vids I find them very interesting and love the way you look at things, I have come back to woodwork late in life but think I can still learn something new
I built a sled similar to this one on a lark, after watching your video, and have found it to be far more useful than expected. Also, I've noticed the miter box does not make accurate crosscuts on really small pieces where this does. Thanks for the great idea and nice design.
I like all your salvage finds.. great stuff to pick up that people once left behind. Ive been cruising around our local flooring shop but as of lately no such luck lol
Looks like a good idea, I just bought a table saw after using a radial arm saw for all these years, this might be my first project to help me build a sliding router table that Stumpy Nubs made, router jigs that I have seen are also on my build list.
Thanks for the vids. Love your work. While I'm amazingly impressed with the way your mind works with your woodworking skills, I must say I'm more impressed with the jobs you complete in a tiny workshop. Low ceilings and cramped space, and yet you "crank" out so many wonderful projects. Good for you. It just goes to show.... But again, thanks very much. I learn a lot from your vids.
I was also looking at that dial indicator get-up you had there. Nice and small. I would like to take a closer look and see how it all goes together. good video
Love the idea of using a dado to give you a thicker runner. For saws like my old Craftsman contractor saw with really shallow miter grooves, a thin runner attached to a flat bottom might not perform as well over time. Also a great idea to use a single runner and make the sled reversible for 2 cut locations, one in the middle like a standard crosscut sled and one on the edge, which gives more fence support for longer workpieces. And cutting the base in two and butting the edge of the square up to another piece of wood allows for easier squaring of the fence than trying to eyeball whether the kerf lines up with the edge of the square. I will definitely be trying all of these in my next sled. Pure genius!
Just purchased a framing square because my other squares are too small to make cabinets with. I'm very happy to hear they are reliable. Damned if I can find a mini-square for sale here though.
I'd be really interested to see how accurate this one ended up. Have you tried the 5-cut method (or another method) to see how square it turned out? If this way works, it's just so much easier to build than the alternatives.
Great channel Matthias. I notice that you are very practical in your creations, you take everything in account, even very small details, so you get multipractic utilities. I wonder if you can make a video on how to approach to make practical wooden corner clamp (like to be used to fix two parts when glueing or screwing on right angle), not to big not to small...
Doh! As usual, wished I'd thought of that. I built one and retired my larger one cause I mostly used it for small stuff and this just works better, plus I have a decent chop saw. It's reversability is surprisingly useful. I did make sure that the rear fence was also as square as possible which, allows a bit more flexibility. I like your clever safety, but, for me, I worry about it creating a dangerous complacency so I prefer just a block of wood attached behind the front fence, and paying attention. You are one smart wood engineer (somehow woodworker seems like an inadequate term for you). Keep the ideas coming. Thanks.
Very nice, I made the exact same thing about 5 years ago. It works great. The only difference is that I added a perspex safety guard over the blade area.
Matthias Wandel hey thank you for always showing this, I have a very serious favor to ask. Could you please show how to re parallel this specific fence for your table saw? I have tried everything. And no matter what I do I can’t get it perfect. What I been doing is setting it to the miter slot, then losing the bolts by the lock 4 of them. When it’s perfectly aligned I lock it down then re tighten those 4 bolts. But I do need to say on the left bolts 1,3 I have about 8 pieces of paper to make it perpendicular back to the table. I put this fence from another craftsman saw that’s why I had to do that. I tried what it said in the manual and it’s just not working. Sometimes I’m 1/8th out of parallel then sometimes a bit smaller or maybe 1/16th bigger. It’s literally driving me insane. To the point where I’m considering the nylon insert on the tension bolt may be out of square. So if you could make a video or maybe just explain a bit to me here I would be in your debt. Also I do not have the two screws on the guide plate to the fence to turn is left or right. It’s not that model of fence.
Awesome sled! I was interested to see what methods and thought processes you went through for when I make mine shortly, but I gotta admit, the main thing that drew me to this video was to figure out what the block on the back was when I saw it in another video and now I know lol. If only I had practical use for it myself. Maybe in version 2.0 or 3.0
I like your sled. I almost learned about cross cut sleds the very hard way, after which I took red paint and painted a NO-GO ZONE on the front of the sled, where my hands may never go.
Good stuff here, nice job. 1 thought however, you have a great design on your jointer push stick that you should use for your table saw as the Twiddle sticks you have now are dangerous. That same jointer design just needs to be thinner for use on the table saw. You will find this type holds the stock down flat to the table. It lets you apply side pressure to keep stock against the fence. It has a handle that is WELL above the blade and the small notch grabs the stock from behind. It's the absolute safest push stick design I've ever used in 35 years in the shop. Keep up the good work.
like the stop idea, been using just a screw in my bench top as a stop but forget it all to often and end up making fire wood before i realize it still there, your idea stays with the sled and i like the concept, any feed back on having used it, is a good add on for you?
Thank you for your videos. I've learned so many tricks and methods. One thing I can't learn from you is safety. Recently I watched few videos about table saw safety. Could you please comment, how do you work without eye, ear and breathing protection?
Love your videos, always look forward to the next. Also love the fact you dumpstered that hardwood and you showed the couple thou play and the hot glue fix
I find your builds both interesting and fascinating. Why do you choose to build everything (the structure of your tools) in wood? Is it for the challenge or that you are more comfortable in wood? Keep it up.
I know what you mean Josh - the little contractor saws I have owned have the little retaining clips which require a T-shaped runner. My sleds are not nearly as nice as Matthias', but I was able to do some very delicate work to the runner on my router table before I attached to sled base - I was able to create a T-slot runner which does work. I have looked a bit for pieces of aluminum or nylon already shaped as I need, but did not find.
thanks Matthias, after a long time i saw you making something with less of physics involved. :-)). very nicely made and videographed. Keep up the good work.
Hi Matthias, thanks for new videos, can you please give some ideas about how to make or, modify a caliper to use on table saw, like yours in this video.
Just whipped up my own table saw sled. I don't have a jointer/planer, so I ran some 2 x 4s along the table saw to get them as flat as possible. I don't need to be that accurate anyway. Thanks for the videos!
On my guide rails on table saw they are not square but have a inverted V shape,do you suggest trying to cut a V shape for the runners or keep straight rails & hope the play stays true ? Cheers
Mathias, Congratulation and thanks. Your videos have learning a lot. In your video you show two version. Just a question: talking about the use day-by-day, what version is better or more useful? Thanks Aurelio - S.Paulo-Brazil
Matthias, Would it be better to put the dial indicator closer to the saw blade area? My guess is that a more true distance would be measured closer than farther. I've just started using a dial indicator since I've seen you using one! Brian
Very interesting. I really like the 1 runner setup. I have a lot of binding with my extension table. So I might try this. Shouldn't you use the 5 cut squareness test? I like the sled stop. JD
1) I'm planning on making a small sled over the holidays ... thanks 2) I'm loving that giant jointer you built .. have you found it's working well since you've built it. I'm seriously interested in building one. ... thanks again, happy holidays.
Very cool sled, I like!!! Perhaps its worth mentioning how to adjust a square like that true to square; as well as how to check that your sled is square by trimming for the four sides of a scrap piece of mdf and measuring the difference in width of the fourth cuts offcuts beginning and end...
Matthias, I just bought a cheap table saw for use in my garage. So I was looking for ideas for easier use and came across this video. I love the idea of making my own tools - I was an engineer by trade many years ago and we often made or adapted our own tools in the workshop. What I would like to know is about the dial gauge. You appeared to screw it down, yet I did not see a hole of any type in the saw table. Does it just have a pot-magnet underneath, or how does it stay in place?
Have you considered the Lee Valley polyethylene strips for use in the saw table slots? They cost a couple of bucks, but aren't affected by moisture. Obviously.
@ 6:00..... I calibrate measuring instruments at work. I have seen about 10% of brand new framing, quick, & machinist squares not be square. Just use a machined square block to test if it is true. This sled is absolutely beautiful.
Been enjoying some old school Matthias, what a back catalogue!
I have been watching your videos for over 8 years and you are always my reference, you are so methodical and precise. I cannot thank you enough for sharing your knowledge.
I'm not sure which is better. You're projects, or your video making skills. Both are amazing, and it's what keeps me coming back looking for more. Thanks, Matthias!
Yes, in the summer, my tenon jig is much harder to slide. Haven't had as much of an issue with the exotic wood on my older sled though.
When I measured the shrinkage and expansion of various woods, the exotics showed a bit less of it than domestic species. I actually did some original research on this.
Also, I oriented it so that the radial grain direction is horizontal. Radial shrinkage is generally a bit less than tangential.
I swear, time must stand still in your shop. I'm always amazed at the time and perfection you put into every piece you make! well done sir
Love this design and building method. Matthias, do you ever run into swelling runners in humid weather? When it rains here, my sleds get really "sticky".
I just finished rebuilding a ten inch Craftsman 113 table saw from the 50's. Very solid, smooth and powerful. My experience using table saws is limited(normally I'm a metal worker) so I'm taking a crash course before attempting any projects. This was a great video, I'll check out your others. Liked and subscribed.
Great video on the new smaller sled, now that is one I can use for my saw table. Glad to see you designed one for those of us that do not need the larger size.
Two guide rails would be twice as string. That's the advantage. But more likely to jam with seasonal wood shrinkage. With the close fit I made for the one bar, jamming with seasonal changes would be almost inevitable.
Absolutely love that you use a dial indicator. Most people don't get that finicky with woodworking
That method of squaring the sled up is so simple and so brilliant !!! thanks made my day
Fantastic Matthias. You're on top of your game am sure. Amazing knowledge and the quality of your videos it's A+. Thank you. Ric
That cocobolo is beautiful and pricey! So glad you saved it from the trash! And great video too
I love how precise and well planned all your projects are. I am always impressed with your attention to detail & creative engineering. Very inspiring. I had no plans to build a sled like yours, but I think I just might give it a try now.
It's really incredible what you're able to do with a table saw and a little ingenuity. I'm not into wood cutting and I probably never will be, but that was a very interesting, informative, and well made video, and I watched the whole friggin thing. You put everything in there that needed to be. No more, no less. Bravo sir, bravo.
good video for someone who has an excellent accurate table saw, not your typical DIYer.
one of the biggest things that put this "single runner" design above the rest, is when you rotated the sled around 180 degrees. The added functionality makes this superior to what I'm calling a "double runner" design. in addition to the added functionality, this design is also significantly smaller than the other sleds.
Thank you for sharing your ideas.
How do you think flipping that around adds to the functionality?
Because it allows the fences to be conveniently short when making crosscuts through the slot, but if you want to raise the blade to make a deep cut, you can flip the sled around (and not cut through your fences).
Hi Matthias,
I too was curious about the hinged thingy on your wonderful small sled; which brought me to this video; where you remark on the reliability of framing squares. All of your videos teach me something about methods of work, I'm dazzled by your shop built tools; and the privilege of watching your inventiveness always lifts me up. By way of recompense I'd like to share an old trick for checking and truing a steel framers. Forgive me if this is something you already know.
To read the accuracy of a framers you need a board with a straight edge that is at least twice the length of the body and somewhat wider than the length of the tongue. A fair square cut on a piece of 3/4 ply will suffice.
Lay the body against the edge with the tongue placed so you can flip the square and still have complete registration of the body on the board edge.
Strike a thin pencil line from the crook to the end of the tongue. Flip the square over and strike another thin pencil line from the edge (at the original mark) again from the crook to the end of the tongue. If they align exactly the square is true. If they diverge, the divergence is twice the error of the square.
Scribe a thin straight line from the heel to the crook. To widen the square use a fine point punch and strike a point on that line (not too hard) about 1/4 the way from the crook to the heel. To constrict the square strike a point on that line about 1/4 the way from the heel to the crook. Check again until you have the alignment.
Note: this will not work with some older/antique squares. Back in the day some of them were tempered. These can only be trued by grinding. Aluminum framing squares are adequate for drywall and don't need to be square.
Nicely done and I love the safety features! So many people don't care about their fingers these days and even defend NOT using any safety equipment.
Matthias keep up the good work. Its fun to see the level of accuracy in your build ! VERY COOOL
I'm 60 + I can still say cool
Sorry I did not see your video first. You have addressed the safety issues correctly. I have a trashed thumb from another design, Well done!
Very nice Matt. Your videos are always clear and concise. I have learned a lot from your work. I look forward to all your videos.
Wow, this is the first video where I see the way to build a sled that I use myself. I will have finished my 1000th sled by christmas. This method is easy, fast and accurate.
Just finished first sled. Great series...always appreciate your orderly processes.. thanks!
Thanks for the tip of machining wood with the help of a dial gauge, never thought of woodworking that way. Learn something new every day!
The Sled stop was an insanely over engineered addition. I love it! Keep up the great vids!
Matthius I think I have watched all of your vids and some repeatedly, I love the fact you work in thousands of and inch but found you also work in smidgins.
Now that I find you are working in the same measurements as I work in I feel more confident and able to follow and make some of your projects.
Joking apart please keep up the vids I find them very interesting and love the way you look at things, I have come back to woodwork late in life but think I can still learn something new
Gets in the way, and I use a lot of different sized blades. Avoiding kickback is also a function of experience.
Друг,ты верующий человек?
I built a sled similar to this one on a lark, after watching your video, and have found it to be far more useful than expected. Also, I've noticed the miter box does not make accurate crosscuts on really small pieces where this does. Thanks for the great idea and nice design.
Great presentation and a very nice project. I really like the idea of the hinged stop on the back of the sled. Thanks for posting.
Just finished the sled used oak for the runner ... Thank you so much for all your work! Axel
Axel Faltin spray sillicon spray on it or put some wetwall on the bottim and it goes lile absoulte shit
AWESOME video. This guy makes my table saw skills look like a 2 year old.
Seems you make the best thought out designs , mine are never as elligant. Great job!
I like all your salvage finds.. great stuff to pick up that people once left behind. Ive been cruising around our local flooring shop but as of lately no such luck lol
Looks like a good idea, I just bought a table saw after using a radial arm saw for all these years, this might be my first project to help me build a sliding router table that Stumpy Nubs made, router jigs that I have seen are also on my build list.
Thanks for the vids. Love your work. While I'm amazingly impressed with the way your mind works with your woodworking skills, I must say I'm more impressed with the jobs you complete in a tiny workshop. Low ceilings and cramped space, and yet you "crank" out so many wonderful projects. Good for you. It just goes to show.... But again, thanks very much. I learn a lot from your vids.
I was also looking at that dial indicator get-up you had there. Nice and small. I would like to take a closer look and see how it all goes together. good video
Love the idea of using a dado to give you a thicker runner. For saws like my old Craftsman contractor saw with really shallow miter grooves, a thin runner attached to a flat bottom might not perform as well over time.
Also a great idea to use a single runner and make the sled reversible for 2 cut locations, one in the middle like a standard crosscut sled and one on the edge, which gives more fence support for longer workpieces.
And cutting the base in two and butting the edge of the square up to another piece of wood allows for easier squaring of the fence than trying to eyeball whether the kerf lines up with the edge of the square.
I will definitely be trying all of these in my next sled. Pure genius!
Just purchased a framing square because my other squares are too small to make cabinets with. I'm very happy to hear they are reliable. Damned if I can find a mini-square for sale here though.
Very good craftsmanship and safety. You have great videos and very clean shop.
I'd be really interested to see how accurate this one ended up. Have you tried the 5-cut method (or another method) to see how square it turned out? If this way works, it's just so much easier to build than the alternatives.
That's a great idea. I have a big sled & it's a bit of a pain to put on the saw & take it off all the time. A little sled would be very handy.
I recently built one and it is great. I have used it a lot already.
Thanks Matthias
Great channel Matthias. I notice that you are very practical in your creations, you take everything in account, even very small details, so you get multipractic utilities. I wonder if you can make a video on how to approach to make practical wooden corner clamp (like to be used to fix two parts when glueing or screwing on right angle), not to big not to small...
your equipment works very well. Can you show how to tune up the table saw drill press and jointer?
I can't get a steel runner of the exact size. My slot is a bit bigger than 3/4"
Love the two sleds. Ingeniously simple.🙂
UHMW is a bit on the soft side. Exotic hardwood, even if you have to buy it, is also cheaper.
Doh! As usual, wished I'd thought of that. I built one and retired my larger one cause I mostly used it for small stuff and this just works better, plus I have a decent chop saw. It's reversability is surprisingly useful. I did make sure that the rear fence was also as square as possible which, allows a bit more flexibility. I like your clever safety, but, for me, I worry about it creating a dangerous complacency so I prefer just a block of wood attached behind the front fence, and paying attention. You are one smart wood engineer (somehow woodworker seems like an inadequate term for you). Keep the ideas coming. Thanks.
I don't think a riving knife helps much with a crosscut sled, but as long as it doesn't get in the way, leave it in.
I see you working in imperial and metric one after the other, I am glad I am not the only person to do that lol
You inspired me to make my own table saw and I did. Thanks Matthias.
I do check them for square. Never found one that was out of square.
Very nice, I made the exact same thing about 5 years ago. It works great. The only difference is that I added a perspex safety guard over the blade area.
I wheeled my 6" jointer out of my shop, so I guess the 12" one is working well enough. Still not ready to part with the 6" jointer though.
Matthias Wandel hey thank you for always showing this, I have a very serious favor to ask. Could you please show how to re parallel this specific fence for your table saw? I have tried everything. And no matter what I do I can’t get it perfect. What I been doing is setting it to the miter slot, then losing the bolts by the lock 4 of them. When it’s perfectly aligned I lock it down then re tighten those 4 bolts. But I do need to say on the left bolts 1,3 I have about 8 pieces of paper to make it perpendicular back to the table. I put this fence from another craftsman saw that’s why I had to do that. I tried what it said in the manual and it’s just not working. Sometimes I’m 1/8th out of parallel then sometimes a bit smaller or maybe 1/16th bigger. It’s literally driving me insane. To the point where I’m considering the nylon insert on the tension bolt may be out of square.
So if you could make a video or maybe just explain a bit to me here I would be in your debt.
Also I do not have the two screws on the guide plate to the fence to turn is left or right. It’s not that model of fence.
Matthias Wandel sigh I just rewatched the video it’s not the same fence :( I miss seen something. Off to the wood working forms I go !
The hinged block is ingenious! Thanks for sharing.
This is great I have been looking for a simple sled like this since I got my table saw, thanks for uploading.
Those dial indicators sure are handy. Definitely on my list of things to get at some point.
Scrollsaws here are pretty cheap, so I don't think it makes sense to build one. Plus, it would be harder to build one than a bandsaw.
curious to why to cut the sled before you had the fences on? seems to me if you squared your fence to the blade you should be good.
Awesome sled! I was interested to see what methods and thought processes you went through for when I make mine shortly, but I gotta admit, the main thing that drew me to this video was to figure out what the block on the back was when I saw it in another video and now I know lol. If only I had practical use for it myself. Maybe in version 2.0 or 3.0
That sled stop is really cool, Mr. Engineer...I'm subscribed.
I like your sled. I almost learned about cross cut sleds the very hard way, after which I took red paint and painted a NO-GO ZONE on the front of the sled, where my hands may never go.
Did I miss something? Did you give the dimensions? for the sled? Excellent explanation and instructions on how to build a small sled. Thanks.
Good stuff here, nice job.
1 thought however, you have a great design on your jointer push stick that you should use for your table saw as the Twiddle sticks you have now are dangerous. That same jointer design just needs to be thinner for use on the table saw. You will find this type holds the stock down flat to the table.
It lets you apply side pressure to keep stock against the fence.
It has a handle that is WELL above the blade and the small notch grabs the
stock from behind. It's the absolute safest push stick design I've ever used in
35 years in the shop.
Keep up the good work.
like the stop idea, been using just a screw in my bench top as a stop but forget it all to often and end up making fire wood before i realize it still there, your idea stays with the sled and i like the concept, any feed back on having used it, is a good add on for you?
Thank you for your videos. I've learned so many tricks and methods.
One thing I can't learn from you is safety. Recently I watched few videos about table saw safety. Could you please comment, how do you work without eye, ear and breathing protection?
+Yevgen Polubotko I do this by ignoring the safety trolls. Don't look to me for safety advice.
We all wish you to continue your channel in good health :)
+Yevgen Polubotko Matthias is clearly wearing glasses.
You need to square the fence to the T-slot, not to the blade, not to the rip fence. Neither of those is guaranteed to be parallel to the T-slot.
Great Videos Started To Be More Interested In Wood Workings Thanks To Your Videos Great Job
Love your videos, always look forward to the next. Also love the fact you dumpstered that hardwood and you showed the couple thou play and the hot glue fix
Thank you Matthias, something I have been intending to make for some time. You have given me some really good ideas....
Hand't thought of that. I never use the built in rulers, always just measure the the blade, with calipers if it's critical.
I really like the sled stop! I think you're on to something. Nice video!
I find your builds both interesting and fascinating. Why do you choose to build everything (the structure of your tools) in wood? Is it for the challenge or that you are more comfortable in wood? Keep it up.
I know what you mean Josh - the little contractor saws I have owned have the little retaining clips which require a T-shaped runner. My sleds are not nearly as nice as Matthias', but I was able to do some very delicate work to the runner on my router table before I attached to sled base - I was able to create a T-slot runner which does work. I have looked a bit for pieces of aluminum or nylon already shaped as I need, but did not find.
thanks Matthias, after a long time i saw you making something with less of physics involved. :-)). very nicely made and videographed. Keep up the good work.
Dumpster diving is a sport best done alone and opportunistically. Less likely to draw attention, and no need to share the pickings..
Hi Matthias, thanks for new videos, can you please give some ideas about how to make or, modify a caliper to use on table saw, like yours in this video.
I have yet to come across a design for a corner clamp that I like, even out of metal.
Thanks for this Matthias, I was wanting to make one and I'm glad you have a video on it.
excellent articulation and demonstration. Well Done Mate!
Love your videos, Matthias! Brilliant stuff, thank you.
James
Just whipped up my own table saw sled. I don't have a jointer/planer, so I ran some 2 x 4s along the table saw to get them as flat as possible. I don't need to be that accurate anyway. Thanks for the videos!
On my guide rails on table saw they are not square but have a inverted V shape,do you suggest trying to cut a V shape for the runners or keep straight rails & hope the play stays true ? Cheers
Impresive craftsmanship dude, precise work, enjoying your videos
Mathias, Congratulation and thanks. Your videos have learning a lot. In your video you show two version. Just a question: talking about the use day-by-day, what version is better or more useful? Thanks Aurelio - S.Paulo-Brazil
the version in the video is the one I use the most.
Thank you and congratulations again.
+Matthias Wandel ربنا يهديكم للاسلام
.
Haven't been able to find a metric dial indicator.
I make the one runner to about .002", if there was two, wood movement, even with plywood, would cause it to jam.
Matthias,
Would it be better to put the dial indicator closer to the saw blade area?
My guess is that a more true distance would be measured closer than farther.
I've just started using a dial indicator since I've seen you using one!
Brian
Brian Halick
Very interesting. I really like the 1 runner setup. I have a lot of binding with my extension table. So I might try this. Shouldn't you use the 5 cut squareness test?
I like the sled stop.
JD
1) I'm planning on making a small sled over the holidays ... thanks
2) I'm loving that giant jointer you built .. have you found it's working well since you've built it. I'm seriously interested in building one. ... thanks again, happy holidays.
Am fixated on the dial indicator base and home it pops on and off so easy. Can you do a video on that? Thx.
Very cool sled, I like!!! Perhaps its worth mentioning how to adjust a square like that true to square; as well as how to check that your sled is square by trimming for the four sides of a scrap piece of mdf and measuring the difference in width of the fourth cuts offcuts beginning and end...
Matthias,
I just bought a cheap table saw for use in my garage.
So I was looking for ideas for easier use and came across this video.
I love the idea of making my own tools - I was an engineer by trade many years ago and we often made or adapted our own tools in the workshop.
What I would like to know is about the dial gauge. You appeared to screw it down, yet I did not see a hole of any type in the saw table. Does it just have a pot-magnet underneath, or how does it stay in place?
Very neat. Is it that much of a difference to use tropical hardwood compared to North American or European hardwood?
I like the safety block that engages the out feed extension.
Thanks for the one runner tip. Far less of a problem than two.
Have you considered the Lee Valley polyethylene strips for use in the saw table slots? They cost a couple of bucks, but aren't affected by moisture. Obviously.
@ 6:00..... I calibrate measuring instruments at work. I have seen about 10% of brand new framing, quick, & machinist squares not be square. Just use a machined square block to test if it is true.
This sled is absolutely beautiful.