Subframe NEW unused 18mm bolts (old bolts are stretch type and should not be reused) - start on the left-hand side, then the right-hand side Torque to 105 Nm (78 ft.lb) then tighten/rotate another 120°. Subframe bracket 14mm bolts: torque to 50 Nm (37 ft.lb). Steering shaft wing screw (@2:25) part #987281: torque 30 Nm (22 ft.lb). Always insert this screw with the head up as shown in the video with the steering wheel centered. This screw is a shear bolt that will snap in case of a crash so the steering column doesn't push the steering wheel towards the driver. So important to tighten it at the exact specified torque.
www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-stabilizer-bar-31262929 Updating this video, here's what needs disconnected (I may forgot things): end links (undo the top bolts), from inside the car undo the steering coupler 13mm 'wing' bolt (check out the toque, this is a safety bolt 22 ft.lb), undo the upper torque mount at the bar, undo the exhaust downpipe at the manifold (not easy) because the exhaust must NOT be left attached or the flex pipe will get damaged, undo the metal plate under the catalytic converter, release the converter mounting rod from the two rubber bushings (put grease on the pins to slide the bushing off, use channel lock pliers), undo the front subframe bolts 2 turns, support the rear of the subframe with a floor jack then undo the rear plates and subframe bolts, slowly start lowering the rear of the subframe - watch the two coolant heat hoses, A/C lines, and any other cable and brake lines inside the engine bay so as not to stretch them. Need to lower it a good deal to make space between the subframe rear 'legs' and the car bottom, because the sway bar will have to move backwards. Undo the sway bar bolts - I used a deep 13mm socket near the tie rods boots, slide the bar backwards past the subframe legs and very carefully pass it over the brake line, then on the passenger side push the bar towards the driver's side to pass it past and above the remaining plastic hose (it's a charcoal vacuum hose), then the bar is clear. When lowering the subframe, the lower engine mount near the crank pulley can get damaged (may cause vibrations) and the power steering line nearby can get crushed by the engine
Mr Peppermint , i have a up and down play in the rack , just where tierod connects , Is it possible to tighten the rack or i need to replace it with new one. There is no leaks yet.
I'm assuming the play is not at the tie rod ball joint ? The sphere would have a lot of wear to develop vertical play, but may happen. Also make sure the tie rod is screwed tight into the rack, these use blue loctite and may break loose. Removing the dust boot should give a good check for these. If the tie rod itself is fine, but I've read that when a garage is tightening the inner tie rods, there is a chance the torque applied would damage some centering plastic bushings inside the rack. Maybe this happened on your car with the previous owner ? This will not cause a leak but as you say there will be lateral play in the inner tie rod. I'm not sure if these centering bushings can be replaced, if they are external may be worth a try.
@@Peppermint1 Thanks for quick reply ! Thats what ive been told, that the bushings are bad and the whole rack needs to be replaced. Is there any other solutions?
@@martink4719 I'm not aware of rebuilding kits, usually on these cars people replace the rack with a quality rebuild. However, this being expensive, if it doesn't leak yet it may still work for a while.
Thank you very much for your video. I was replacing the anti roll bar in my xc70 today and this clip has helped me a lot !!🍻🍻
Great to hear it was helpful!
Subframe NEW unused 18mm bolts (old bolts are stretch type and should not be reused) - start on the left-hand side, then the right-hand side Torque to 105 Nm (78 ft.lb) then tighten/rotate another 120°. Subframe bracket 14mm bolts: torque to 50 Nm (37 ft.lb). Steering shaft wing screw (@2:25) part #987281: torque 30 Nm (22 ft.lb). Always insert this screw with the head up as shown in the video with the steering wheel centered. This screw is a shear bolt that will snap in case of a crash so the steering column doesn't push the steering wheel towards the driver. So important to tighten it at the exact specified torque.
www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-stabilizer-bar-31262929
Updating this video, here's what needs disconnected (I may forgot things): end links (undo the top bolts), from inside the car undo the steering coupler 13mm 'wing' bolt (check out the toque, this is a safety bolt 22 ft.lb), undo the upper torque mount at the bar, undo the exhaust downpipe at the manifold (not easy) because the exhaust must NOT be left attached or the flex pipe will get damaged, undo the metal plate under the catalytic converter, release the converter mounting rod from the two rubber bushings (put grease on the pins to slide the bushing off, use channel lock pliers), undo the front subframe bolts 2 turns, support the rear of the subframe with a floor jack then undo the rear plates and subframe bolts, slowly start lowering the rear of the subframe - watch the two coolant heat hoses, A/C lines, and any other cable and brake lines inside the engine bay so as not to stretch them. Need to lower it a good deal to make space between the subframe rear 'legs' and the car bottom, because the sway bar will have to move backwards. Undo the sway bar bolts - I used a deep 13mm socket near the tie rods boots, slide the bar backwards past the subframe legs and very carefully pass it over the brake line, then on the passenger side push the bar towards the driver's side to pass it past and above the remaining plastic hose (it's a charcoal vacuum hose), then the bar is clear.
When lowering the subframe, the lower engine mount near the crank pulley can get damaged (may cause vibrations) and the power steering line nearby can get crushed by the engine
Pretty good idea; researching/practicing at the junkyard 👍
Thanks!
Excellent video.
Thanks.
Mr Peppermint , i have a up and down play in the rack , just where tierod connects , Is it possible to tighten the rack or i need to replace it with new one. There is no leaks yet.
I'm assuming the play is not at the tie rod ball joint ? The sphere would have a lot of wear to develop vertical play, but may happen. Also make sure the tie rod is screwed tight into the rack, these use blue loctite and may break loose. Removing the dust boot should give a good check for these.
If the tie rod itself is fine, but I've read that when a garage is tightening the inner tie rods, there is a chance the torque applied would damage some centering plastic bushings inside the rack. Maybe this happened on your car with the previous owner ? This will not cause a leak but as you say there will be lateral play in the inner tie rod. I'm not sure if these centering bushings can be replaced, if they are external may be worth a try.
@@Peppermint1 Thanks for quick reply ! Thats what ive been told, that the bushings are bad and the whole rack needs to be replaced. Is there any other solutions?
@@martink4719 I'm not aware of rebuilding kits, usually on these cars people replace the rack with a quality rebuild. However, this being expensive, if it doesn't leak yet it may still work for a while.