I just finished changing both fuel filters on my 2014 1025R. The fuel petcock on mine turns with much more difficultly. In fact, I had to come back in and watch you turn it off to be sure that I wasn't trying to turn it in the wrong direction. I'll do the engine oil change (from your youtube tutorial) next - after the mechanic finishes putting my transmission back together. Hint: Never hit a big rock that's sticking up under the snow with a front mounted snow blower.
Seeing your 1025 without its loader reminded me of my old motorpool sergeant. Used to say he'd take a fleet of midsize Toyota 4x4s over Humvees because they were smaller and could fit into more places. Thanks for the tutorial.
Just a comment; you should were disposable nitrile gloves when handling processed/refined oil products. Skin is, unfortunately, very good at absorbing them.
That red ring wasted a half hour of my life after changing the oil, air and fuel filters in that order. When I retrieved the fuel filter spring out of the drain pan to put back together. I had to search the parts manual to figure out where it came from because I did not see it when I dumped the filter vessel out. 😉
Hey Tim, I figured out what happened. Thought you might find it interesting. It was the fuel pump. Red wire pulled out from it. Can't fix it. It has to be replaced. Anyway I found out a few things. 1) Apparently the tractor can run without a fuel pump as long as you don't loose the prime which I did when replacing the filter. 2) I feel bad for anyone that has to replace this pump. Too 1 hr 20 mins to get the bugger out. 3) Getting the new one in is gonna be fun (NOT!!!).
The Red Ring would float up higher with water in your fuel. That's a water separator bowl, also great for trapping sediments. Tim, are you seeing Rust in your gas tank? I have a 1023 e, 2016 ish model. There is a metal collar where the cap screws in. It's rusted badly and I'm replacing these, and looking up your videos again, every 7 months. Any ideas about rust in fuel tanks!?!?!? Thanks! I've up-loaded my own videos if you'd like to take look.
Hi Tim, enjoy watching your videos as I’m a new owner of a 2013 1025R. Was wondering how that spring and O-ring fit back in the fuel bowl, there was no mention of that in the video. Your videos are very helpful and informative. Thank you. Jim.
Hey Tim! I am a new viewer of your videos and you have helped me to make the decision to buy a 1025. Thank you for all the great videos, I look forward to all of them. Do you have any concerns or things you would change if you had the time back? I bought a 1025r with the backhoe attachment, 54" mower deck, 54" rear blower with electric shoot control and the Tektite cab with heater. I have not seen anything negative, so if you can think of anything it would be great!
Welcome, Chris! Congratulations on the new tractor. For watching our videos, I would suggest looking at our uploads by date, and start watching @ July 2015 or so. Then, work your way forward. You can see our 'progress' in experience, and as we have added attachments. Here are some accessories that I would consider: 1) Upgraded seat springs from boltonhooks.com if you are 'cheeseburger challenged' like me. See video: ua-cam.com/video/u-uaqP5TFFU/v-deo.html 2) You must have rear ballast. I'm still planning a comprehensive rear ballast video, but haven't had time yet. Have a look at the Heavy Hitch from www.heavyhitch.com Get a 5% discount there with coupon code TTWT. I would recommend the upgraded 'room for 16x 42lb weights' version. Along with the heavyhitch, you'll need the weights. Get them from greenfarmparts.com and use coupon code TTWT for a large discount. Of course, you could get the ballast box. However, it is a 'uni-tasker'. It is cheaper, but the heavy hitch and weights provide more flexibility. ...as you'll see in our videos. 3) Pallet forks from www.artillian.com Amazing attachment. I use it for 80-90% of my loader usage. 4) Next, look at the Heavy Hitch toothbar ...again, www.heavyhitch.com ...coupon code TTWT will work for this as well. Katriel calls this "Tractor Steriods". it really changes the ability of the loader to dig. I have no concerns per say. There are a few little things you'll run into, but nothing major. If you are not a member at greentractortalk.com, I would recommend you join there. Lots of great folks, and a huge amount of knowledge available there. Again, thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching TTWT!
Hi Tim, I watched your videos of the inline fuel filter change and the sediment bowl fuel filter change. I did the inline one last night after work and this evening I did the sediment bowl one. It wasn't bad. I can do them easy from now on. I watched your video of the filter changes several times over the last few months. Thanks for putting them on UA-cam. John Deere has a video on UA-cam also. I have watched many of your other videos over the last few years. I bought the 2013 1023E which is very close to the 1025R. I wished I went for the 1025R because of the PTO horsepower but I am fine with it. I want to put a rear PTO snow blower on someday.(Hence, the benefit of more PTO horsepower.) I spoke to my John Deere dealer and they said a 48 inch will work but may not throw the snow quite as far. I have the 60D auto connect deck and a H120 quick attach loader also. I am used to farm tractors and combines growing up. Thanks again for your videos!!! Say hi to Christy and Katriel. You all make great videos!!! Keep them coming!!!
Thanks for your comment. Glad you find the videos helpful. Personal opinion here, but I would never buy a rear mount snow blower when there is a front mount one available.
you should probably wait to tighten it down til after you filled the bowl so you aren't forcing that air up the line into the combustion chamber. also looked like you overtorqued maybe but it is an old o ring after all
Before you even snug that spanner nut open the petcock and burp the air out of the reservoir. Also it would be good to point out the red plastic ring in the reservoir. This is located so you can visually check for water contamination in the fuel. Water separates from the fuel and will cause the ring to float up towards the filter. If I spot water in mine I pull the cup off and pour the top fuel back in the tank. I pour the bottom portion containing the water into the burn barrel as cheap fire starter fluid. Also any towels or grease rags go in the barrel.
thanks, I just changed mine for the first time and of course when I took it out the spring and ring both just fell on the ground....at first I thought it was a seal on top of the filter.... but your comment clears that up. thanks again
Hey Tim I have a question.. So I watch a vid the guy had a 1025 and was really working, it was really blowing a lot of black smoke out the exhaust.. That can't be good for the machine is it? The guy said it was good for the engine, seems like he needed something larger maybe, have you ever had that happen?
Ok I followed the video. Pretty simple but now it will not fill back up. Doesn't sound like the pump is clicking. Just one click when I put it in the on position. 2015 1025 r.
Help! Just changed out the main fuel filter and now it will not fill up when I turn the key to on. Just used the tractor this morning and the pump clicked as usual. Do I hit something. Something does click once but that's it. What did I do wrong? Fuse? Which one?
Tim, I have a 1023e and changed the oil & filter last evening. I also decided to change the fuel filter. The tractor started fine after the oil change, but does not want to start after the fuel filter. The fuel pump is not kicking on. Any clue on what this could be?
It was the primary filter that I changed. I also changed the secondary filter last evening. No sound of the fuel pump kicking on like normal. Checked all the fuses and relays and they seam fine. Stumped.
+Jason Kurtz I would recommend checking on Greentractortalk.com. I have seen this issue discussed there, so you should probably search there for resolution.
Hi Tim, love your wit and knowledge. Question for you: do you have any advice on how to adjust the syncronization of the loader quick attach heads? my left one always lags by about 2 or 3 inches and can't figure out how to cure... JD dealer no joy... Thanks! BD Canuck
lube-shuttle.us/store Use code ttwt for the tubes as well. The tubes are a bit more expensive, but if you are like me, and don’t use a huge amount of grease, it is well worth it! No mess!
Good day Tim was wondering if you could do a video on the install of an auto connect to the tractor. I bought a deck but my tractor did not come with the auto connect kit for the tractor. I have looked for a video with no luck. Thanks
Great job again, Tim, just in time for my first filter swap. You are doing what the entire JD Corporation apparently cannot: produce high-quality easy-to-follow maintenance instruction videos for a product designed for use by folks who may not be professional mechanics. Thanks for the awesome useful help!
@@TractorTimewithTim do you notice a difference now? I just picked up a 2021 1023e and the previous people also used road diesel so thought maybe it preferred for some reason
+skaterman30 thanks for watching. Yes, the under floorboard filter replacement is another video. Posted a few days before this one. Thanks for watching. I've enjoyed your videos!
Tractor Time with Tim I remember watching that video now. I haven't changed mine yet, that will be coming early next year. Not really looking forward to it, but I can handle it.
It is the sediment bowl there where the main fuel filter is located. Just turn off the fuel like I did in the video and dump out the entire contents of the sediment bowl. ...fuel, water, dirt, etc
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks so much. Please share a video of changing the transmission oil and filter, I only have 50 more hours to spare on that service.
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I just finished changing both fuel filters on my 2014 1025R. The fuel petcock on mine turns with much more difficultly. In fact, I had to come back in and watch you turn it off to be sure that I wasn't trying to turn it in the wrong direction. I'll do the engine oil change (from your youtube tutorial) next - after the mechanic finishes putting my transmission back together.
Hint: Never hit a big rock that's sticking up under the snow with a front mounted snow blower.
Seeing your 1025 without its loader reminded me of my old motorpool sergeant. Used to say he'd take a fleet of midsize Toyota 4x4s over Humvees because they were smaller and could fit into more places. Thanks for the tutorial.
Just a comment; you should were disposable nitrile gloves when handling processed/refined oil products. Skin is, unfortunately, very good at absorbing them.
Glad to see a new video! Hope all is going well.
+lightforce7171 all is well. Just needed a little break!
Thanks for watching
That red ring wasted a half hour of my life after changing the oil, air and fuel filters in that order. When I retrieved the fuel filter spring out of the drain pan to put back together. I had to search the parts manual to figure out where it came from because I did not see it when I dumped the filter vessel out. 😉
Hey Tim, I figured out what happened. Thought you might find it interesting. It was the fuel pump. Red wire pulled out from it. Can't fix it. It has to be replaced. Anyway I found out a few things. 1) Apparently the tractor can run without a fuel pump as long as you don't loose the prime which I did when replacing the filter. 2) I feel bad for anyone that has to replace this pump. Too 1 hr 20 mins to get the bugger out. 3) Getting the new one in is gonna be fun (NOT!!!).
Looks like it is an indicator to show if there is water in the bowl and will float if there is. Did not see any mention of this in the owners manual.
The Red Ring would float up higher with water in your fuel. That's a water separator bowl, also great for trapping sediments. Tim, are you seeing Rust in your gas tank? I have a 1023 e, 2016 ish model. There is a metal collar where the cap screws in. It's rusted badly and I'm replacing these, and looking up your videos again, every 7 months. Any ideas about rust in fuel tanks!?!?!? Thanks! I've up-loaded my own videos if you'd like to take look.
Hi Tim, enjoy watching your videos as I’m a new owner of a 2013 1025R. Was wondering how that spring and O-ring fit back in the fuel bowl, there was no mention of that in the video. Your videos are very helpful and informative. Thank you. Jim.
You really should wear gloves tim, you can get liver damage from exposure to fuels and chemicals.
Hey Tim!
I am a new viewer of your videos and you have helped me to make the decision to buy a 1025. Thank you for all the great videos, I look forward to all of them. Do you have any concerns or things you would change if you had the time back? I bought a 1025r with the backhoe attachment, 54" mower deck, 54" rear blower with electric shoot control and the Tektite cab with heater. I have not seen anything negative, so if you can think of anything it would be great!
Welcome, Chris! Congratulations on the new tractor.
For watching our videos, I would suggest looking at our uploads by date, and start watching @ July 2015 or so.
Then, work your way forward. You can see our 'progress' in experience, and as we have added attachments.
Here are some accessories that I would consider:
1) Upgraded seat springs from boltonhooks.com if you are 'cheeseburger challenged' like me. See video: ua-cam.com/video/u-uaqP5TFFU/v-deo.html
2) You must have rear ballast. I'm still planning a comprehensive rear ballast video, but haven't had time yet.
Have a look at the Heavy Hitch from www.heavyhitch.com Get a 5% discount there with coupon code TTWT.
I would recommend the upgraded 'room for 16x 42lb weights' version.
Along with the heavyhitch, you'll need the weights. Get them from greenfarmparts.com and use coupon code TTWT for a large discount.
Of course, you could get the ballast box. However, it is a 'uni-tasker'. It is cheaper, but the heavy hitch and weights provide more flexibility. ...as you'll see in our videos.
3) Pallet forks from www.artillian.com Amazing attachment. I use it for 80-90% of my loader usage.
4) Next, look at the Heavy Hitch toothbar ...again, www.heavyhitch.com ...coupon code TTWT will work for this as well. Katriel calls this "Tractor Steriods". it really changes the ability of the loader to dig.
I have no concerns per say. There are a few little things you'll run into, but nothing major.
If you are not a member at greentractortalk.com, I would recommend you join there. Lots of great folks, and a huge amount of knowledge available there.
Again, thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching TTWT!
could you please do a shed tour with all the attachments?!!!!
Hi was wondering if anyone has had to drain the fuel tank for the 1023E
Hi Tim, I watched your videos of the inline fuel filter change and the sediment bowl fuel filter change. I did the inline one last night after work and this evening I did the sediment bowl one. It wasn't bad. I can do them easy from now on. I watched your video of the filter changes several times over the last few months. Thanks for putting them on UA-cam. John Deere has a video on UA-cam also. I have watched many of your other videos over the last few years. I bought the 2013 1023E which is very close to the 1025R. I wished I went for the 1025R because of the PTO horsepower but I am fine with it. I want to put a rear PTO snow blower on someday.(Hence, the benefit of more PTO horsepower.) I spoke to my John Deere dealer and they said a 48 inch will work but may not throw the snow quite as far. I have the 60D auto connect deck and a H120 quick attach loader also. I am used to farm tractors and combines growing up. Thanks again for your videos!!! Say hi to Christy and Katriel. You all make great videos!!! Keep them coming!!!
Thanks for your comment. Glad you find the videos helpful.
Personal opinion here, but I would never buy a rear mount snow blower when there is a front mount one available.
you should probably wait to tighten it down til after you filled the bowl so you aren't forcing that air up the line into the combustion chamber. also looked like you overtorqued maybe but it is an old o ring after all
They have Knipex pliers that size
great videos, thanks! I should probably still look at my manual, but I don't....just use your videos!
Yea, you should probably still look at your manual :-)
Thanks for your comment.
Good job Tim. Glad you had Christy to help you out. :) You made it look like you were an old pro. ;-)
+mi2tn yea, Christy always makes me look like an old pro! Thanks for watching. ...now you'll have to watch the 'Corn Palace' video!
What, no lard Christy? It's an essential oil for fried chicken and chicken livers and pie, etc.....
Before you even snug that spanner nut open the petcock and burp the air out of the reservoir. Also it would be good to point out the red plastic ring in the reservoir. This is located so you can visually check for water contamination in the fuel. Water separates from the fuel and will cause the ring to float up towards the filter. If I spot water in mine I pull the cup off and pour the top fuel back in the tank. I pour the bottom portion containing the water into the burn barrel as cheap fire starter fluid. Also any towels or grease rags go in the barrel.
+WSMC Mc Great comment. Wow, hard for me to get every good thing in the video. I just didn't think about the red ring visual test. oh well!
thanks, I just changed mine for the first time and of course when I took it out the spring and ring both just fell on the ground....at first I thought it was a seal on top of the filter.... but your comment clears that up. thanks again
i'm the first one--yah!! good information for the fellas who own the 1series.
+BigJim57 thanks Jim. Hope you are getting that sugar under control!
Hey Tim I have a question.. So I watch a vid the guy had a 1025 and was really working, it was really blowing a lot of black smoke out the exhaust.. That can't be good for the machine is it? The guy said it was good for the engine, seems like he needed something larger maybe, have you ever had that happen?
I'd be interested in seeing the video. Do you have a link?
Channel lock
Tim. Mine sputters when trailer on crank up. Do you have any experience with this?
Ok I followed the video. Pretty simple but now it will not fill back up. Doesn't sound like the pump is clicking. Just one click when I put it in the on position. 2015 1025 r.
Help! Just changed out the main fuel filter and now it will not fill up when I turn the key to on. Just used the tractor this morning and the pump clicked as usual. Do I hit something. Something does click once but that's it. What did I do wrong? Fuse? Which one?
I dunno, Dan. Ask on greentractortalk.com I may have heard of that issue mentioned there.
Tim, I have a 1023e and changed the oil & filter last evening. I also decided to change the fuel filter. The tractor started fine after the oil change, but does not want to start after the fuel filter. The fuel pump is not kicking on. Any clue on what this could be?
so, you aren't hearing the fuel pump pumping? Which fuel filter did you replace? the main one with sediment bowl, or the under-floorboard one?
It was the primary filter that I changed. I also changed the secondary filter last evening. No sound of the fuel pump kicking on like normal. Checked all the fuses and relays and they seam fine. Stumped.
+Jason Kurtz I would recommend checking on Greentractortalk.com. I have seen this issue discussed there, so you should probably search there for resolution.
Thanks
Hi Tim, love your wit and knowledge. Question for you: do you have any advice on how to adjust the syncronization of the loader quick attach heads? my left one always lags by about 2 or 3 inches and can't figure out how to cure... JD dealer no joy... Thanks! BD Canuck
Don’t worry about it. When you bump it against the loader, you can straighten them to connect. To put it simply, get over your OCD :-)
Where does the red plastic ring go?
Very important and he left it out.Im here wondering the same damn thing.
Tm I only saw one thing that I will do that you did not do ,that was clean the alimite .
So what is going on if the fuel keeps coming out after the petcock is closed
Sounds like the petcock has leak.
@@TractorTimewithTim this 1025R has 120 hours on it and is just about a year old. Do you think this would be a warranty issue?
@@OutlanderArmory maybe. Call your dealer.
If I purchase the German grease gun where do you get grease tubes, regular sure won’t work?
Th
lube-shuttle.us/store
Use code ttwt for the tubes as well.
The tubes are a bit more expensive, but if you are like me, and don’t use a huge amount of grease, it is well worth it! No mess!
Can you buy those red rings without buying a filter. I can't fin them anywhere.
Look at JDparts.com
Does the little red indicator on the bottom float up if water is detected? Then water would show underneath the red indicator ?
I think so.
Shut the fuel off there, take off the sediment bowl, empty and clean it...put it back on.
Good day Tim was wondering if you could do a video on the install of an auto connect to the tractor. I bought a deck but my tractor did not come with the auto connect kit for the tractor. I have looked for a video with no luck. Thanks
This is a great topic for greentractortalk.com. Check out that site.
What is the red plastic washer in the bottom of the filter for
I think it would illustrate water in the bottom...not exactly sure.
Great job again, Tim, just in time for my first filter swap. You are doing what the entire JD Corporation apparently cannot: produce high-quality easy-to-follow maintenance instruction videos for a product designed for use by folks who may not be professional mechanics. Thanks for the awesome useful help!
+Highlander John thanks for the kind words.
Why do you run road diesel?
I don’t anymore. Back then, it wasn’t worth the hassle to get off-road…my location made it unhandy, and I was using 50 gal / yt
@@TractorTimewithTim do you notice a difference now?
I just picked up a 2021 1023e and the previous people also used road diesel so thought maybe it preferred for some reason
No, there is no difference, except for the dye/tax.
Time do they call this a water separator as well? I believe I have water in my diesel fuel. What would be the steps to empty it
Most likely, cleaning that sediment bowl, and adding some fuel treatment will do the job.
If that litte red ring is floating up then you have water in your fuel. That ring is there for that reason.
You do know there is another fuel filter under the floor board right? It's one of those plastic in line filters with clamps on each side.
+skaterman30 thanks for watching. Yes, the under floorboard filter replacement is another video. Posted a few days before this one. Thanks for watching. I've enjoyed your videos!
Here is the url to my replacement of the under-floorboard filter. It isn't trivial to replace, is it? ua-cam.com/video/LEQykTJODkg/v-deo.html
Tractor Time with Tim I remember watching that video now. I haven't changed mine yet, that will be coming early next year. Not really looking forward to it, but I can handle it.
is that also the water separator?
yes
👍
Enjoyed your fuel filter videos. Can you please advise how to check and drain the water separator and where it is located?
It is the sediment bowl there where the main fuel filter is located. Just turn off the fuel like I did in the video and dump out the entire contents of the sediment bowl. ...fuel, water, dirt, etc
@@TractorTimewithTim I was confused as it says in the manual to do it as a daily operation. That seems like a lot for daily...
Yea, forget that! :/)
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks so much. Please share a video of changing the transmission oil and filter, I only have 50 more hours to spare on that service.
Already done. There is a playlist named ‘Johnny’s essential oils’ that has all of the service videos.
Cute lawn mower
I keep extra set gaskets in a tool box just in case i do any
fluid change that requires to change any damaged gasket.