Last 1 1/2 ago I had our local John Deere dealer come to my house to change the oil and filter, gas filters and hydraulic oil and filter. $550.00 was my bill. You have taught me to change at least my gas filter and oil and oil filter. Thank you so much. Will try my hydraulics next.
Once again I followed your video to change my oil. I hate getting started on a tractor project and after getting under the machine I have the wrong size wrench or socket. I always refer to your video's and make sure I have the right tools so I don't have to go back and forth so many times. You are right about the filter being tight from the factory. Damn that was hard to get off. Not so next time. Thanks again Tim.
There's one thing I would recommend and try to do no matter what you change the oil in. Try and fill up the new filter with as much oil as you can before screwing it on. It gives it almost immediate oil pressure. Thats also the way Paul Short recommended in one of his older videos. Great tutorial, Tim. As far as losing oil plug, I have done that no telling how many times. You are a great teacher. GOD Bless.
Tractor Time with Tim Yes, technically. I had same problem on my ford ranger. It would only allow to be half filled due to it being on its side. I guess if it was allowed to drain down by gravity, it should be ok. I didn't mean to sound knit picky. This is just my opinion. I would always start up right after putting oil in my engine, whether it be car, mower, tractor, etc... Once I started them, it would have a momentary knock, due to oil not being completely inside everything, but once I started to fill up filter, with as much oil as I could, I never heard the knocking anymore. Years later, I heard Paul Short talking about it when servicing a customers or his own, can't remember for sure, kubota, he pretty much said the same thing. I wasn't trying to beat you up on it, or anything. It was just my opinion. I really do respect your knowledge of things you do. What you learn then teach someone else, really makes a difference. You are a "down to earth" kind of guy whom teaches us on the same level. You really break things down for a simpleton like me to understand. Frankly, I haven't got a clue how I made it as far as I have without wisdom from folks like you teaching me things. Thank GOD for social media. I never had a father or big brother to look up to and teach me anything, like you and Paul have done. It's almost like I have a father figure in Paul and a big Brother in you. You are truly a nice person and a great teacher. You and Paul Short are 2 of my favorite "heros" on facebook or youtube and I'd only change one thing, if I could. I wish I could have gotten to know you all sooner. Keep the videos, coming, my friend, and GOD Bless.
Good video. I think that's the first time I've seen anyone use grease on the filter gasket. I've always put a thin film of oil on it. I've found a few references on-line which caution not to use grease. Apparently it was a common practice back in the days of canister filters to prevent the gasket from falling off while installing the new filter. As for labeling the filter, back in the day I had some issues with labels falling off. So I started using a paint pen. I have a black one and a white one and use whichever is appropriate for the color of the filter. The paint never comes off and it very easy to read even from 10-feet away. I label oil filters, fuel filters, etc. It even works for making marks on nuts and bolts as a visual indicator if they start to loosen.
I think I've shown all of the details in these 'essential oils' videos. There really isn't that much to the engine oil change. The hydraulic oil change can be a bit frustrating, but you can certainly do it yourself. I've done it twice now.
I've watched this before, always nice to refresh. I pour oil in having the hole at the top and pour across the wide top. That way, you can get the can, a full one, right to the point where pouring with spout down often spurts out fast and overshoots. Martin
Good job on oil change an explanation great...buuuut on the oil heater an black oil...black oil is deposit from oil an fuel mixture.. it's cleaning internal parts..oil heater where i live in Central West Va an have one on my gas engine an only plug in the night before if going out the next day... heater is to make oil thiner an flow faster to cam an crank...less failure in the long run... warm shed nooo problem...thx again
Here we are, 6 yrs later & some of us coming back to watch again! Great job Tim! I am @ 431 hrs now on my 1025R. When should I be changing my engine oil, interval now?
If you want to allow air into the engine so your oil drains faster you can also pull the dipstick up slightly to allow air to get in and still some what protect against dust or debris contamination getting in the engine.
I did the block heater and have never plugged it in in almost 2 years. It is in the garage not heated but last winter was not that cold. I only started it 1 time when the temperature was in the single digits. I just let the glow plugs cycle 2 times before I hit the starter. I just got a little bit of smoke Yanmar starts great even in cold weather. Now if it was in the carport and the winter time I probably should have a block heater plugged in LOL.
Tractor Time with Tim yep mine only maybe 5 to 10 seconds but for some reason it will do the same on any cold start below 50 deg which is weird. One of these day I'm going to plug in the block heater just for the hell of it to see if it is way better.
Tim, this would have been a lot more useful to me if I had noticed that the mid-mount mower was not attached before you started. For all you reading this, be sure to dismount the belly mower before you start. This guy is a near-pro, and he's working in a clean, open space with everything organized at hand.
Good job Tim. Not much can be said about changing oil. I've never heard of using grease on the oil filter ring till a few months ago. Now I see you do it too. I just use some oil from the new oil I'm about to put in. Don't know which is better or if it even matters. I think I'm one of the very few (count'em on 1 hand, maybe even 1 finger) that left the oil in till I had 200 hours on it. It's what my owners manual said and that is what I went by. Don't have a service manual to muck things up for me. My manual for the 2210 said the same thing. That's why I went with 200 hours. If it was good for the 2210 and the 1026 said the same thing I was good with it. I'm one of those that believes you can't wear out oil or that it will break down in that amount of time as long as it doesn't get over heated. But as you know everyone has their on opinion and their own way of doing things. Take care and see you next Friday. It's a week from today Tim! Can't wait to get there.
Well you have proof that 200 hrs is not too long! Probably could go 400hrs! I doubt that grease vs. oil on the gasket makes any difference. In my opinion, most of this type of stuff is over-rated. Just heard from my dad. We rented an electric scooter for him. So, he will be at the farm show too. He just couldn't walk it anymore, so the scooter should make it much easier for him.
I always change oil when it is hot, so all the debris not caught by the filter comes out. I have never seen a case when you can remove the oil filter without spilling some of it on the floor and getting some on the engine. I do not put grease on the oil filter gasket. I use fresh oil. I do not need to write the date and hours on my filter because I keep a spiral book on each of my pieces of equipment. When i finish using them or performing PM on them I write in the date, what was done, what products were used, outside temperature, etc. I also include hours of operation, tanks of gas for some equipment and any other notes that I feel should be included. I live in the South, so I do not need a block heater, but I would use a block heater if I lived where you do, as opposed to one that attaches to the oil pan with a magnet. I get around using Briggs & Stratton oil filters on my SPX because a Fram XG 3614 works well on my tractor. I could use the cheaper TG 3614, but i use the better quality XG filter on my 23 up Snapper SPX. That little short filter that Briggs has for these engines might do fine on a 12 HP engine with one quart of oil but these bigger engines hold more than two quarts of oil and need a bigger filter
When you grease grease fittings, you should clean the end of the fitting of, first. Otherwise, you push any dirt onthe end of the fitting intothe joint.
Tim, I think one of those flashlights that takes the batteries from your cordless drill would be great for illuminating dark areas that you are filming. Thanks for the video.
Just hit the 1 year mark on my 1025R and even though I watched this before I bought the tractor, I came back here for a refresher. I also struggled to get the factory oil filter loose. I went to my local farm store and harbor freight and wasn’t able to find the proper oil filter wrench (or socket I guess). I finally got it with a screwdriver like you, but would like to have one of those tools on hand. Can you provide a link? I checked your amazon store as well as your website and wasn’t able to find it. Thanks!
You make no mention of the 'other' oil fill cap on the right side front of the engine under the air cleaner. What/why is there a 2nd oil fill cap? Is it an alternative or do I need to put oil in there? What is this 2nd oil fill reservoir?
Not sure what size the plug is, but buying aftermarket magnetic one allows you to just place/hang it on the bottom of the oil pan. Added plus: the top of the plug will attract any small metal frag's floating around the pan (works like the mag inside the filter for the hydro).
Big Tim, I’ve been watching your videos for a couple months now. The reason being was my interest In getting a sub compact tractor. In my obsession/research I came across your videos and have thoroughly enjoyed your myriad of “how to do” and “tractor capability” videos. Because of your information stream I’ve been able to make a choice of purchasing a 1025r. Only issue now is getting board approval for the expenditure :) Thanks for helping me with my indecisiveness. I look forward to buying a new JD to be the envy of my neighbors whilst tackling projects they most likely have to pay others to do. Take care and have safe COVID free summer!
Tim. I have yet to meet someone in person who claims to be a mechanic who does not constantly over tighten oil filters and drain plugs. Drives me nuts. Glad you stressed that in the video.
As a former mechanic I can say we do that because we must warranty our work. No one wants to pay for any problems caused by a leaky filter or a drain plug falling out. I've seen the results. Fortunately I never suffered from that particular problem.
Hi Tim nice job ! my dad did it the same way Paul likes he would pre-load the filter and i have seen grease vs. oil used but we just use some new oil and i like to turn the filter a little more than you did ! just me LOL but i have did the screwdriver trick too ! but keep up the videos hope to get some videos up too as soon as it warms up ! curt :-)
Thanks Tim, Wow I had no idea there was so much to know about Grease. Another Great Video. I'm not sure I can get that gun in Canada or not but I will look.
Tim the reason that first filter was hard to get off. That is a diesel engine and have a high vibration not like gas. Your filter and drain plug need to be more than just snug. You can get away with it for awhile but one day oops. Just saying.
Does your tractor require a new metal gasket on the drain plug bolt? I have had some dripping before from that bolt when changing oil on my old Ferguson so I replace that metal gasket from time to time, of course my tractor is a 1957 year model so it’s had a few more oil changes than your new tractor, Great videos, I enjoy watching,
You absolutely do not drive a screwdriver through an oil filter, but I acknowledge seeing the bend in the blade as you removed it. Inline water heaters are the best, even for your truck. It blows hot air immediately. For Johnny, perhaps review the size they use on Arctic Cat snowmobiles. They may be Sized Right for that 3 cylinder engine
Hey Tim huge fan I have the same tractor great machine the only thing I have noticed with mine that I would recommend looking at on yours is the steering hydraulic hose on the ram on the front axle when I turn to the left my tire seems to come in contact with that hose and has not ruptured but there is a rub mark on it I would recommend taking a look at that and just wondering if you are experiencing the same issue great job on the oil changed just did mine at 216
Awesome I thought you did really well last time. I like that you saw JD Kubota Land pride. I would like to see anything that catches your eye or something you can not live with out. LOL Thanks PS Spend some money.
I 'hand tighten' my oil filter. When you do not use a tool to tighten the filter you are not going to 'overtighten'. That gasket is meant to be snug between the filter and engine. If you can remove the filter without a tool the filter is not screwed on tight enough. Just my experience. Have you considered wearing disposable gloves when exposing your hands to used motor oil?
I should probably try the gloves. The ones I've tried irritate my hands. ..we never used gloves on the farm for oil type stuff, so it is just habit with me.
hi , like Paul Short is saying , you should fill the new oil filter with new oil and than install it , you may loose a drop or two but it is minor I was doing that alson for my car , motocycle etc Good job beside that , and yes get yourself a block heather it is the best way i think Good luck
With the loader off its easy pain if loader is on and even more of a pain with single point and 3rd function connectors on new tractors. Change oil every year.And partially fill with oil to get oil to the engine quicker. Any hydrocarbon motor will turn the oil black because of all the hydrocarbons .
I have a question about the break in oil issue....I called the dealer where I purchased my 1025r and they don’t carry JD break in oil. I also went to another local dealer who doesn’t carry JD break in oil either. After one year, I had around 50 hrs on the machine and was due for the transmission service. I elected to change the oil too, since it would take me about 4 years to hit the 200 hour mark. I spoke with both dealers’ service departments and they felt it was better to do the yearly oil change/filter with the JD PLUS 50 II oil as opposed to leaving the break in oil in there for 4 years until I hit the 200 hour mark. Any thoughts/comments? Your videos are great BTW, made servicing the 1025r easy...well easier
Thanks for another great maintenance video. I've recently been contemplating replacing my oil drain plug on my 1025r with a Fumato ez-drain plug. Once installed... just a push of the lever & oil drains out, no more plug removal (also no more hand/arm covered in oil) which is nice. Have you heard anything good/bad about these ez drain plugs? Thanks again & have a great day!
+Silver Maple never heard of them. First thought makes me nervous, as I sometimes drag over brush etc. wouldn't want to accidentally trigger it. However, I suspect that they have guards against that.
I don't recommend it. It's just one more thing to fail, leak or accidentally come open. The drain plugs are so easy to get to on these tractors that you can almost just reach under without crawling on the ground.
Hi, great and informative as usual. I just bought my first tractor. It’s a 2018 1023e with only 10 hours on it. It has never been serviced because of the low hours. My question is should I go ahead and do a 200 hour service to replace all of those parts and fluids since it’s such an old machine, or should I just keep going with what it’s got?
Great video ! How do you reset the maintenance service reminder hour glass that came on at 200 hrs ? I couldn’t find any information in the owner manual.
Hi Tim I have a question for you do the hydraulics bleed down on your backhoe while your letting it idle I have a 1025 TLB with 26 hours on It and if I don’t replace the pin it drops to the ground I asked the dealer about it and they said it was normal I called John Deere but there useless I just can’t seem to wrap my head around it as being normal
Hi Jim I love your videos I was wondering have you ever heard of Schaeffers oil I have a John Deere 5100e I have switched it over to Schaeffers oil it runs about 10° cooler we all know friction is heat when you have time look up Schaeffers oil on UA-cam
Most auto parts stores will take your used oil. Give them a call. I use O'Reilly auto parts. They have a 55 gallon waste oil drum you pour your used oil into. The empty oil filter goes into my trash can in a brown paper bag. Some quick oil change places will take used oil too.
I keep seeing a 50 HR maintenance on the 1025R. I have a 2021 model, and in my owners manual it states to change the trans, front axle and engine oil only at 200 hrs. I feel skeptical now
Hey Tim! Does JD make a synthetic oil? What are your thoughts on using synthetic vs conventional diesel oils? Thanks for all your hard work on these videos, I really enjoy them!
I ordered the maintenance kit from greenparts for my 1023e but got the wrong inner filter and outer filter for it since the serial number difference. But other than that very helpful.
Great video. Has anyone nailed down when the 1st oil change should be done? Mine has 34 hours on it and I want to change it if 50 is when it should be done. Maintenance Manual shows 1st one at 200 hours. Seems too long. Keep putting out the very informative videos.
Hi Tim I have a 1023e that I just bought recently, I was wondering if you could help me out with everything I would have to buy with the first 50 hour oil changes and filters?
Can do! Check out this link from my website: tractortimewithtim.com/wordpress/2016/08/06/1023e-1025r-service-part-numbers/ While you are there, click an advertisement or two ... no need to buy anything, just click an interesting ad. This helps support our channel!
Hi Tim & all! Can you add this video to the essential oils playlist? It’s the only oil that isn’t in the playlist & boy are those videos handy for doing the maintenance on my year old to me ‘14 1025r.
Hi Tim, I have a question, I have a 2020 1025r with loader and backhoe, thinking about getting the mower deck, not sure if I should or just get a dedicated mower, your thoughts.
Many opinions on this. I will say that you can buy gently used decks for 1025r relatively cheap. I personally like mowing with a tractor, but I will admit that a ztr will do it faster.
@@TractorTimewithTim Hmm. Ok thank you. It has a flashing “hour glass” symbol. I assumed that was the service light...I’ll check into it further. Your videos are very helpful. Thank you.
Do you still need to change the oil after your first year even if you aren’t at 50 hours yet? I’ve had mine for just over a year and I’m trying to figure out if I need to change it or not. Only 36 hours on it.
Just did my first 1025r oil change, noticed the original filter was way heavier duty than the replacement and even made different on the inside, anyone else notice that? and yes i used the john deere 806418 filter.
Yes, the factory filter is made my Yanmar. The replacement filter is a John Deere filter. John Deere sources their filters from a different manufacturer.
Hi Tim - I have a 2018 1025R and it looks like there are 2 oil fills. One on the top that you show in the video, but also one down the starboard side of the engine - do you know what it's for?
John Deere says the JD engines has 'break in oil' my 1023e (just got it) as all here I'm sure know, has a Yanmar engine are we talking the same engine? Thanks. Learning alot here. Ron Brown
@@TractorTimewithTim Tim Thank you. While I have your ear, under the seat of the 1023e there is a small T-handle, I've looked at my manual and I'm not able to find any reference to this, it seems to go to the diff/trans? Your video on front blade quick attachment was a blessing, little bit of a puzzle to put together. Stay safe and healthy.
I have a newer style 1025R. My owner's manual (OMLVU31626) states to change the engine oil and filter every 200 hours. The new manual online (omtr117450) states every 400 hours. I am a residential owner and do not put a lot of hours on the tractor every year. I will take me many years to reach the 200 or 400 hours maintenance intervals for the oil change. Is For the oil, coolant, transmission oil, is there a year interval that these should be replaced (i.e every 1 or 2 years)? I was not sure if you have any insider information from John Deere if there is a yearly maintenance guide for these fluid changes. Can the tractor really go many years without fluid changes if I put a low amount of hours on the tractor every year and only do my fluid changes based on the tractor hour meter as stated in the manual. The manual does not state fluid should be change every x years if the hours are not meet. Any guidance you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
No insider info. However, I would recommend changing the transmission oil, and cleaning shavings out of the case by at max 100 hours. Then, proceed at the manual specified interval. We find those shavings to be significant in the first 50-100 hours. I doubt it hurts the machine to wait until 200 hours, but it might reduce the performance a bit…and I think it increases the ‘whine’ when lots of shavings on the screen.
@@TractorTimewithTim Do you have any recommendations on the engine oil change if you have low tractor hours. I am use to automotive manuals they specify a engine oil change interval based on mileage or every 6 months which ever you reach first. But in the tractor manual they just state engine hours, which for me would take many years for example to reach 200 hours and seems wrong to go that many years without changing engine oil. I am curious what you do with all of your equipment and if you have low hours on equipment do you change oil every year at least? I really appreciate your time and effort that you put towards this videos and have been following from almost the beginning.
Hey Tim wanted to see if you could tell me about a part on the 1025R. I noticed one of my bolts on the side of my 3 point hitch that attach to the I match was gone? Do you know the name of that part ? Thanks for your help!
Punch a small hole in the end of the filter at the bottom. Hold a plastic bag to catch the remaining oil in the filter. Saves it running down the side of the block .
@TractorTimewithTim yeah, the large pliers I have won't fit in yhe tight spot. I was hoping you'd have the size of the one in the video. Or maybe yhe part number stamped on it?
Hey Tim, Just so you are aware .The green farms parts link is not adding the parts for the oil change to the cart. My 2025R is not a week old ,but the driver recommended to change the oil at 20 hours??? What are you thoughts?
The book says to change the oil at 100 hours if I am not mistaken. I have notified green farm parts repeatedly about the failing link. So far, no fix. Sorry.
Hi Tim, I did my first oil change at 50 hrs. Do I need to do oil changes at 50 hr intervals, or can I wait until I hit 200 hours (150 hr interval, as with the hydraulic fluid)? I have received varying instructions so I'm coming to you for the gospel. Thanks!
Last 1 1/2 ago I had our local John Deere dealer come to my house to change the oil and filter, gas filters and hydraulic oil and filter. $550.00 was my bill. You have taught me to change at least my gas filter and oil and oil filter. Thank you so much. Will try my hydraulics next.
It is actually kind of mentally rewarding to do this yourself. Sense of accomplishment! Congratulations!
I bought my 1023E 18 months ago and enjoy watching your videos. It has been helpful when I need to service my tractor. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Scott. Glad you are enjoying.
Deere sure has figured out how to make changing the oil really easy. I like the oil runs down the side of the engine block and into the pan.
+Love2boat92 yep. No issie
New 1025 owner. Really appreciate the practical content, advice & tips. Thanks Tractor Time team.
Thank you very much!
Once again I followed your video to change my oil. I hate getting started on a tractor project and after getting under the machine I have the wrong size wrench or socket. I always refer to your video's and make sure I have the right tools so I don't have to go back and forth so many times. You are right about the filter being tight from the factory. Damn that was hard to get off. Not so next time. Thanks again Tim.
Thanks for this video Tim. It’s time for me to change the oil in my 1025r. Hour meter just went over 400 and last time it got changed was about 275
This is as easy as a zero turn oil change, I was expecting more of a headache. Thanks!
There's one thing I would recommend and try to do no matter what you change the oil in. Try and fill up the new filter with as much oil as you can before screwing it on. It gives it almost immediate oil pressure. Thats also the way Paul Short recommended in one of his older videos. Great tutorial, Tim. As far as losing oil plug, I have done that no telling how many times. You are a great teacher. GOD Bless.
Pretty hard to do when the filter is mounted horizontally, yes? Also, won’t gravity fill the filter since it is horizontal?
Tractor Time with Tim Yes, technically. I had same problem on my ford ranger. It would only allow to be half filled due to it being on its side. I guess if it was allowed to drain down by gravity, it should be ok. I didn't mean to sound knit picky. This is just my opinion. I would always start up right after putting oil in my engine, whether it be car, mower, tractor, etc... Once I started them, it would have a momentary knock, due to oil not being completely inside everything, but once I started to fill up filter, with as much oil as I could, I never heard the knocking anymore. Years later, I heard Paul Short talking about it when servicing a customers or his own, can't remember for sure, kubota, he pretty much said the same thing. I wasn't trying to beat you up on it, or anything. It was just my opinion. I really do respect your knowledge of things you do. What you learn then teach someone else, really makes a difference. You are a "down to earth" kind of guy whom teaches us on the same level. You really break things down for a simpleton like me to understand. Frankly, I haven't got a clue how I made it as far as I have without wisdom from folks like you teaching me things. Thank GOD for social media. I never had a father or big brother to look up to and teach me anything, like you and Paul have done. It's almost like I have a father figure in Paul and a big Brother in you. You are truly a nice person and a great teacher. You and Paul Short are 2 of my favorite "heros" on facebook or youtube and I'd only change one thing, if I could. I wish I could have gotten to know you all sooner. Keep the videos, coming, my friend, and GOD Bless.
Very kind. Thank you!
Good video. I think that's the first time I've seen anyone use grease on the filter gasket. I've always put a thin film of oil on it. I've found a few references on-line which caution not to use grease. Apparently it was a common practice back in the days of canister filters to prevent the gasket from falling off while installing the new filter. As for labeling the filter, back in the day I had some issues with labels falling off. So I started using a paint pen. I have a black one and a white one and use whichever is appropriate for the color of the filter. The paint never comes off and it very easy to read even from 10-feet away. I label oil filters, fuel filters, etc. It even works for making marks on nuts and bolts as a visual indicator if they start to loosen.
+EOSJOE thanks for your comment!
Im glad your putting this on here. My 50hr is coming up and I want to do it myself.
I think I've shown all of the details in these 'essential oils' videos. There really isn't that much to the engine oil change. The hydraulic oil change can be a bit frustrating, but you can certainly do it yourself. I've done it twice now.
Thanks Tim I love the videos and can’t wait to accessorize my Johnie right now he’s helping me build a area for his shed
I followed your videos to do an oil change and lube and aside from a minor funnel mishap it all went well😀. Thanks for the inspiration!
I'm getting ready for my first oil change....TTWT to the recue for assistance!
Thanks, I've learned how to change the oil now. I've also learned where the dipstick is! I could see it there to the right of the filter.
I've watched this before, always nice to refresh. I pour oil in having the hole at the top and pour across the wide top. That way, you can get the can, a full one, right to the point where pouring with spout down often spurts out fast and overshoots. Martin
5 years or so after I first watched this, here I am again ;)
Cool!
Really enjoy your videos. My tractor is orange (Kioti) but still learn from the things you do. God
Bless and keep the videos coming.
+Allen Jackson yep. We don't care what color your tractor is. They are all work horses.
Good job on oil change an explanation great...buuuut on the oil heater an black oil...black oil is deposit from oil an fuel mixture.. it's cleaning internal parts..oil heater where i live in Central West Va an have one on my gas engine an only plug in the night before if going out the next day... heater is to make oil thiner an flow faster to cam an crank...less failure in the long run... warm shed nooo problem...thx again
Just bought a 1025r love your videos
Good video, Tim. It was a piece of cake. The filter came off pretty easily, but they animal-manned the drain plug on there.
Thanks for letting me learn from your mistakes Tim. You are the best.
Here we are, 6 yrs later & some of us coming back to watch again! Great job Tim!
I am @ 431 hrs now on my 1025R. When should I be changing my engine oil, interval now?
Every 200. Thanks for continuing to watch!
If you want to mark the hours on the filter a gray/silver sharpie works great.
+Tom Reed yep, or the paint stick others have mentioned. Christy is a label freak. I suppose that is why I suggested using a labeller.
If you want to allow air into the engine so your oil drains faster you can also pull the dipstick up slightly to allow air to get in and still some what protect against dust or debris contamination getting in the engine.
Love all your videos I can't wait till my tractor gets here should be here mid january
Thanks Adam! Merry Christmas!
I did the block heater and have never plugged it in in almost 2 years. It is in the garage not heated but last winter was not that cold. I only started it 1 time when the temperature was in the single digits. I just let the glow plugs cycle 2 times before I hit the starter. I just got a little bit of smoke Yanmar starts great even in cold weather. Now if it was in the carport and the winter time I probably should have a block heater plugged in LOL.
+Alvie Schreckhise it starts great, but it coughs and sputters for 30 seconds or more
Tractor Time with Tim yep mine only maybe 5 to 10 seconds but for some reason it will do the same on any cold start below 50 deg which is weird. One of these day I'm going to plug in the block heater just for the hell of it to see if it is way better.
+Alvie Schreckhise block heater will help.
Tim, this would have been a lot more useful to me if I had noticed that the mid-mount mower was not attached before you started. For all you reading this, be sure to dismount the belly mower before you start. This guy is a near-pro, and he's working in a clean, open space with everything organized at hand.
Oops. Sorry.
No worries. I;ll try again tomorrow
Good job Tim. Not much can be said about changing oil. I've never heard of using grease on the oil filter ring till a few months ago. Now I see you do it too. I just use some oil from the new oil I'm about to put in. Don't know which is better or if it even matters. I think I'm one of the very few (count'em on 1 hand, maybe even 1 finger) that left the oil in till I had 200 hours on it. It's what my owners manual said and that is what I went by. Don't have a service manual to muck things up for me. My manual for the 2210 said the same thing. That's why I went with 200 hours. If it was good for the 2210 and the 1026 said the same thing I was good with it. I'm one of those that believes you can't wear out oil or that it will break down in that amount of time as long as it doesn't get over heated. But as you know everyone has their on opinion and their own way of doing things. Take care and see you next Friday. It's a week from today Tim! Can't wait to get there.
Well you have proof that 200 hrs is not too long! Probably could go 400hrs! I doubt that grease vs. oil on the gasket makes any difference. In my opinion, most of this type of stuff is over-rated.
Just heard from my dad. We rented an electric scooter for him. So, he will be at the farm show too. He just couldn't walk it anymore, so the scooter should make it much easier for him.
Always nice to see your video's, Thanks for sharing!
+scottcrick thanks Scott. It has been a couple of weeks. The egress window video is doing very well, so I decided to take a week off!
I always change oil when it is hot, so all the debris not caught by the filter comes out. I have never seen a case when you can remove the oil filter without spilling some of it on the floor and getting some on the engine. I do not put grease on the oil filter gasket. I use fresh oil. I do not need to write the date and hours on my filter because I keep a spiral book on each of my pieces of equipment. When i finish using them or performing PM on them I write in the date, what was done, what products were used, outside temperature, etc. I also include hours of operation, tanks of gas for some equipment and any other notes that I feel should be included. I live in the South, so I do not need a block heater, but I would use a block heater if I lived where you do, as opposed to one that attaches to the oil pan with a magnet.
I get around using Briggs & Stratton oil filters on my SPX because a Fram XG 3614 works well on my tractor. I could use the cheaper TG 3614, but i use the better quality XG filter on my 23 up Snapper SPX. That little short filter that Briggs has for these engines might do fine on a 12 HP engine with one quart of oil but these bigger engines hold more than two quarts of oil and need a bigger filter
When you grease grease fittings, you should clean the end of the fitting of, first. Otherwise, you push any dirt onthe end of the fitting intothe joint.
You may want to look up new pig for oil absorbent pads and towels. They work much better than paper towels. Excellent vieos
Tim, I think one of those flashlights that takes the batteries from your cordless drill would be great for illuminating dark areas that you are filming. Thanks for the video.
I think I have one now. I just bought one of those multiple tool kits.
Lucky you have a heated shed... I have to use 0W-40 to help in winter.
Just hit the 1 year mark on my 1025R and even though I watched this before I bought the tractor, I came back here for a refresher. I also struggled to get the factory oil filter loose. I went to my local farm store and harbor freight and wasn’t able to find the proper oil filter wrench (or socket I guess). I finally got it with a screwdriver like you, but would like to have one of those tools on hand. Can you provide a link? I checked your amazon store as well as your website and wasn’t able to find it. Thanks!
You make no mention of the 'other' oil fill cap on the right side front of the engine under the air cleaner. What/why is there a 2nd oil fill cap? Is it an alternative or do I need to put oil in there? What is this 2nd oil fill reservoir?
I use to drill 1/2" hole in the top of my oil catch pans to put drain plugs in that way they never ended up in the pan.
+Don Hanson you are ahead of me!!! Good thinking
Not sure what size the plug is, but buying aftermarket magnetic one allows you to just place/hang it on the bottom of the oil pan. Added plus: the top of the plug will attract any small metal frag's floating around the pan (works like the mag inside the filter for the hydro).
My manual says,
Trans at first 50, then every 200 hrs.
Engine every 200 hrs.
Fuel filters annually or every 200 hrs.
Lube every 50 hrs.
+Chris Mills yep, but it also says break-in oil for first 100 hrs.
i put a block heater in my 1025 r very happy with it
Big Tim,
I’ve been watching your videos for a couple months now. The reason being was my interest In getting a sub compact tractor. In my obsession/research I came across your videos and have thoroughly enjoyed your myriad of “how to do” and “tractor capability” videos. Because of your information stream I’ve been able to make a choice of purchasing a 1025r. Only issue now is getting board approval for the expenditure :) Thanks for helping me with my indecisiveness. I look forward to buying a new JD to be the envy of my neighbors whilst tackling projects they most likely have to pay others to do. Take care and have safe COVID free summer!
Hope that isn’t your REAL name!
You’ll love the new tractor. Thanks for the kind words.
Tim. I have yet to meet someone in person who claims to be a mechanic who does not constantly over tighten oil filters and drain plugs. Drives me nuts. Glad you stressed that in the video.
As a former mechanic I can say we do that because we must warranty our work. No one wants to pay for any problems caused by a leaky filter or a drain plug falling out. I've seen the results. Fortunately I never suffered from that particular problem.
Hi Tim nice job ! my dad did it the same way Paul likes he would pre-load the filter and i have seen grease vs. oil used but we just use some new oil and i like to turn the filter a little more than you did ! just me LOL but i have did the screwdriver trick too ! but keep up the videos hope to get some videos up too as soon as it warms up ! curt :-)
Thanks Tim, Wow I had no idea there was so much to know about Grease. Another Great Video. I'm not sure I can get that gun in Canada or not but I will look.
I change my oil on all my machines once a year, usually in the spring.
Tim the reason that first filter was hard to get off. That is a diesel engine and have a high vibration not like gas. Your filter and drain plug need to be more than just snug. You can get away with it for awhile but one day oops. Just saying.
They make silver sharpies for writing on filters with hours / date.
I usually use paint markers and they do pretty good
These videos are costing me money - lol. Keep ordering all of the products and the tractor hasn't even arrived yet :)
Does your tractor require a new metal gasket on the drain plug bolt? I have had some dripping before from that bolt when changing oil on my old Ferguson so I replace that metal gasket from time to time, of course my tractor is a 1957 year model so it’s had a few more oil changes than your new tractor,
Great videos, I enjoy watching,
You absolutely do not drive a screwdriver through an oil filter, but I acknowledge seeing the bend in the blade as you removed it.
Inline water heaters are the best, even for your truck. It blows hot air immediately. For Johnny, perhaps review the size they use on Arctic Cat snowmobiles. They may be Sized Right for that 3 cylinder engine
+dmcinkyt I have no need for preheated now that I have my warm shed
Hey Tim huge fan I have the same tractor great machine the only thing I have noticed with mine that I would recommend looking at on yours is the steering hydraulic hose on the ram on the front axle when I turn to the left my tire seems to come in contact with that hose and has not ruptured but there is a rub mark on it I would recommend taking a look at that and just wondering if you are experiencing the same issue great job on the oil changed just did mine at 216
+Andrew Compton thanks for your comment. I used a zip-tie, attaching it to the tractor frame.
Enjoyed the video. Are you going to to farm machinery show in louisville this year? I hope so as I enjoyed watching your previous farm show video.
We are. We have official media passes this year! Anything particular that would like to see us cover?
Awesome I thought you did really well last time. I like that you saw JD Kubota Land pride. I would like to see anything that catches your eye or something you can not live with out. LOL Thanks PS Spend some money.
Your video was very helpful Thank You
+brad stull thanks for watching!
Spongebob: “All we have to do is pull the drain plug, pull the drain plug, pull the drain, pull the drain plug.
Mr Krabs: “THE DRAIN PLUG!!!
I 'hand tighten' my oil filter. When you do not use a tool to tighten the filter you are not going to 'overtighten'. That gasket is meant to be snug between the filter and engine. If you can remove the filter without a tool the filter is not screwed on tight enough. Just my experience. Have you considered wearing disposable gloves when exposing your hands to used motor oil?
I should probably try the gloves. The ones I've tried irritate my hands. ..we never used gloves on the farm for oil type stuff, so it is just habit with me.
Hi Tim The only thing I wouldhave done differently is prime the oil filter
Hard to prime an oil filter that screws on at 90*. You'll have a big mess on your hands as the oil pours out as your screwing on the oil filter.
I changed my oil on my 1025r, and was surprised to find that my John Deer riding mower had a bigger filter than my tractor.
hi , like Paul Short is saying , you should fill the new oil filter with new oil and than install it , you may loose a drop or two but it is minor
I was doing that alson for my car , motocycle etc
Good job beside that , and yes get yourself a block heather it is the best way i think
Good luck
+S Faucon i don't need the heater anymore. Have a warm house for Johnny.
With the loader off its easy pain if loader is on and even more of a pain with single point and 3rd function connectors on new tractors. Change oil every year.And partially fill with oil to get oil to the engine quicker. Any hydrocarbon motor will turn the oil black because of all the hydrocarbons .
Good information. Thank you
I have a question about the break in oil issue....I called the dealer where I purchased my 1025r and they don’t carry JD break in oil. I also went to another local dealer who doesn’t carry JD break in oil either. After one year, I had around 50 hrs on the machine and was due for the transmission service. I elected to change the oil too, since it would take me about 4 years to hit the 200 hour mark. I spoke with both dealers’ service departments and they felt it was better to do the yearly oil change/filter with the JD PLUS 50 II oil as opposed to leaving the break in oil in there for 4 years until I hit the 200 hour mark. Any thoughts/comments? Your videos are great BTW, made servicing the 1025r easy...well easier
Agree with the dealer. Forget the break in oil.
Thanks for another great maintenance video. I've recently been contemplating replacing my oil drain plug on my 1025r with a Fumato ez-drain plug. Once installed... just a push of the lever & oil drains out, no more plug removal (also no more hand/arm covered in oil) which is nice. Have you heard anything good/bad about these ez drain plugs? Thanks again & have a great day!
+Silver Maple never heard of them. First thought makes me nervous, as I sometimes drag over brush etc. wouldn't want to accidentally trigger it. However, I suspect that they have guards against that.
Tractor Time with Tim Yeah I was a bit worried about that as well. Anyway, thanks for your thoughts & the quick reply!
I don't recommend it. It's just one more thing to fail, leak or accidentally come open. The drain plugs are so easy to get to on these tractors that you can almost just reach under without crawling on the ground.
Would like to see a comparison between the 1025r service and the new 2038r service
Handy tool to remove the filter
+Lucas Hägg link on my website. It is not expensive
Hi, great and informative as usual. I just bought my first tractor. It’s a 2018 1023e with only 10 hours on it. It has never been serviced because of the low hours. My question is should I go ahead and do a 200 hour service to replace all of those parts and fluids since it’s such an old machine, or should I just keep going with what it’s got?
Never hurts to do a 200 hr service.
Great video ! How do you reset the maintenance service reminder hour glass that came on at 200 hrs ? I couldn’t find any information in the owner manual.
Hey Tim, my Kubota zero turn recommends oil filter to be tightened 3/5 of turn after gasket contact😳 real head scratcher 😉
-Brad
Usually they say 3/4 turn after gasket contacts base.
Love your videos !
Thanks for watching!
Hi Tim
I have a question for you do the hydraulics bleed down on your backhoe while your letting it idle I have a 1025 TLB with 26 hours on It and if I don’t replace the pin it drops to the ground I asked the dealer about it and they said it was normal I called John Deere but there useless I just can’t seem to wrap my head around it as being normal
+George Koval yes, normal
Hi Jim I love your videos I was wondering have you ever heard of Schaeffers oil I have a John Deere 5100e I have switched it over to Schaeffers oil it runs about 10° cooler we all know friction is heat when you have time look up Schaeffers oil on UA-cam
What do you do with the old engine oil and oil filter
Most auto parts stores will take your used oil. Give them a call. I use O'Reilly auto parts. They have a 55 gallon waste oil drum you pour your used oil into. The empty oil filter goes into my trash can in a brown paper bag. Some quick oil change places will take used oil too.
I keep seeing a 50 HR maintenance on the 1025R. I have a 2021 model, and in my owners manual it states to change the trans, front axle and engine oil only at 200 hrs. I feel skeptical now
They removed the 50hr requirement in 2018.
Is there a law or something that you have to use JD branded filters and oil?
Please help my 1025r is not racing to hight to turn pto..why?
Hey Tim! Does JD make a synthetic oil? What are your thoughts on using synthetic vs conventional diesel oils?
Thanks for all your hard work on these videos, I really enjoy them!
Synthetic is fine
In my opinion.
I ordered the maintenance kit from greenparts for my 1023e but got the wrong inner filter and outer filter for it since the serial number difference. But other than that very helpful.
Uhoh.
Great video. Has anyone nailed down when the 1st oil change should be done? Mine has 34 hours on it and I want to change it if 50 is when it should be done. Maintenance Manual shows 1st one at 200 hours. Seems too long. Keep putting out the very informative videos.
I just read through some of the comments and saw TTWT says 50 then 200.
Newer 1025r’s state 200 hours for first service.
My dealer said to leave the break in oil in for 200 hours , I have the 2025 does that sound right.
that is what the manual says now. ...for the 2018 and later models.
Should oil be changed once a year or only at the suggested hourly intervals?
What about a new copper washer on the oil drain plug?
Hi Tim I have a 1023e that I just bought recently, I was wondering if you could help me out with everything I would have to buy with the first 50 hour oil changes and filters?
Can do! Check out this link from my website: tractortimewithtim.com/wordpress/2016/08/06/1023e-1025r-service-part-numbers/
While you are there, click an advertisement or two ... no need to buy anything, just click an interesting ad. This helps support our channel!
Thank you very much for the help,,, and keep up the good videos....
Hi Tim & all! Can you add this video to the essential oils playlist? It’s the only oil that isn’t in the playlist & boy are those videos handy for doing the maintenance on my year old to me ‘14 1025r.
Thank you. We will add it when we are around a PC. Can’t do it via mobile :-(
Hi Tim, I have a question, I have a 2020 1025r with loader and backhoe, thinking about getting the mower deck, not sure if I should or just get a dedicated mower, your thoughts.
Many opinions on this. I will say that you can buy gently used decks for 1025r relatively cheap.
I personally like mowing with a tractor, but I will admit that a ztr will do it faster.
Great video. I have a new to me 2018 1025R. It did not come with the manual. Is there a way to reset the flashing service light?
Thank you,
I didn’t know there WAS a flashing service light. The only time a see a flashing light is when something is wrong.
@@TractorTimewithTim Hmm. Ok thank you. It has a flashing “hour glass” symbol. I assumed that was the service light...I’ll check into it further.
Your videos are very helpful. Thank you.
Do you still need to change the oil after your first year even if you aren’t at 50 hours yet? I’ve had mine for just over a year and I’m trying to figure out if I need to change it or not. Only 36 hours on it.
No need, but it never hurts to change the oil.
Tim: do you use synthetic oil or conventional??
Paint pen write on filter hours and what other information you need.
How many bottles of oil do you put in?
Couldn’t use TTWT. There wasn’t a place to input the information on the website when I ordered from them.
Yes, there is a place to enter it. A bit hard to find perhaps.
Email them…they will add it for you.
@@TractorTimewithTim thanks, I emailed them.
Cuantos litros son...
Just did my first 1025r oil change, noticed the original filter was way heavier duty than the replacement and even made different on the inside, anyone else notice that? and yes i used the john deere 806418 filter.
Yes, the factory filter is made my Yanmar. The replacement filter is a John Deere filter. John Deere sources their filters from a different manufacturer.
I HAVE NOT SEEN YOU CHANGE THE SPARK PLUGS. YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON THAT.
Ha!! When I find them, I will change them!
@@TractorTimewithTim So there is no spark plugs?
@@oscarsalas3200 no. Diesel engines do not use spark plugs. They use high compression to provoke the fuel combustion.
Hi Tim - I have a 2018 1025R and it looks like there are 2 oil fills. One on the top that you show in the video, but also one down the starboard side of the engine - do you know what it's for?
You can use either one.
John Deere says the JD engines has 'break in oil' my 1023e (just got it) as all here I'm sure know, has a Yanmar engine are we talking the same engine? Thanks. Learning alot here. Ron Brown
The 1 series no longer uses ‘break in oil’ to my knowledge.
@@TractorTimewithTim Tim Thank you. While I have your ear, under the seat of the 1023e there is a small T-handle, I've looked at my manual and I'm not able to find any reference to this, it seems to go to the diff/trans? Your video on front blade quick attachment was a blessing, little bit of a puzzle to put together. Stay safe and healthy.
I have a newer style 1025R.
My owner's manual (OMLVU31626) states to change the engine oil and filter every 200 hours. The new manual online (omtr117450) states every 400 hours. I am a residential owner and do not put a lot of hours on the tractor every year. I will take me many years to reach the 200 or 400 hours maintenance intervals for the oil change. Is For the oil, coolant, transmission oil, is there a year interval that these should be replaced (i.e every 1 or 2 years)? I was not sure if you have any insider information from John Deere if there is a yearly maintenance guide for these fluid changes. Can the tractor really go many years without fluid changes if I put a low amount of hours on the tractor every year and only do my fluid changes based on the tractor hour meter as stated in the manual. The manual does not state fluid should be change every x years if the hours are not meet. Any guidance you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
No insider info. However, I would recommend changing the transmission oil, and cleaning shavings out of the case by at max 100 hours. Then, proceed at the manual specified interval.
We find those shavings to be significant in the first 50-100 hours.
I doubt it hurts the machine to wait until 200 hours, but it might reduce the performance a bit…and I think it increases the ‘whine’ when lots of shavings on the screen.
@@TractorTimewithTim Do you have any recommendations on the engine oil change if you have low tractor hours. I am use to automotive manuals they specify a engine oil change interval based on mileage or every 6 months which ever you reach first. But in the tractor manual they just state engine hours, which for me would take many years for example to reach 200 hours and seems wrong to go that many years without changing engine oil. I am curious what you do with all of your equipment and if you have low hours on equipment do you change oil every year at least? I really appreciate your time and effort that you put towards this videos and have been following from almost the beginning.
I would worry more about hours.
Having said that, if you want to change every year, there is no problem with that!
Hey Tim wanted to see if you could tell me about a part on the 1025R. I noticed one of my bolts on the side of my 3 point hitch that attach to the I match was gone? Do you know the name of that part ? Thanks for your help!
Post photos to greentractortalk.com or look online at jdparts.com
Punch a small hole in the end of the filter at the bottom. Hold a plastic bag to catch the remaining oil in the filter. Saves it running down the side of the block .
What size filter wrench did you use? I guessing about 70mm? I have a few and my 76 and 65 are too big and small
Not sure. Sorry. The last tool I’ve used looks more like large pliers. It seems to work well on a larger variety
@TractorTimewithTim yeah, the large pliers I have won't fit in yhe tight spot. I was hoping you'd have the size of the one in the video. Or maybe yhe part number stamped on it?
I just screen shot the portion with the socket style filter wrench. It's a 65-68mm wrench
Why don't you pre-load the oil filter before installation?
Because the oil filter screws on at a 90* angle. The pre-loaded oil will run out while your screwing it on and make a real mess.
Hey Tim,
Just so you are aware .The green farms parts link is not adding the parts for the oil change to the cart. My 2025R is not a week old ,but the driver recommended to change the oil at 20 hours??? What are you thoughts?
The book says to change the oil at 100 hours if I am not mistaken.
I have notified green farm parts repeatedly about the failing link. So far, no fix. Sorry.
Hi Tim,
I did my first oil change at 50 hrs. Do I need to do oil changes at 50 hr intervals, or can I wait until I hit 200 hours (150 hr interval, as with the hydraulic fluid)? I have received varying instructions so I'm coming to you for the gospel.
Thanks!
200,400, etc from here. The first 50 is a ‘break in’ change.
@@TractorTimewithTim I believe their is a one year recommended time change too. Time affects oil too with water condensation, acids, etc.