Thanks for the video. I just replaced mine in a 2009 Pilot, $70 for the part. Took about 30 minutes. Most of that time was spent trying to get one screw loose. As a bonus, I found a "lost" tool under the hood. Winning day all the way around.
I have a 2008 CRV that had the exact symptoms. It started with the gas cap warning for about a month. (A new gas cap didn't solve the problem) Then the engine light came on with the codes P145C and P0497. My checking of the purge solenoid was not as sophisticated. I took the solenoid out and checked it on my bench with a 12 volt supply. (To remove the solenoid getting the bottom screw out wasn't fun....) I just blew threw it and then applied 12v. I was dissapointed because I found it seemed to be working fine. Not having anything to lose other than the $40 for a new solenoid, I decided to change it anyway. Much to my surprise after driving about 5k (yes I'm in Canada) the check fuel cap stopped flashing and no engine light! Thanks so much for the tip. The Honda dealer wanted $90 just to diagnose the problem?. Great video...
I have the same symptoms. It was not showing a code when I went to the dealer. Check engine light came on today and using my scanner now it shows these two codes. I think I finally have my definite answer! Honda wanted $150 to diagnose and I'm glad I did not go that route.
I replaced the purge valve on a V6 accord 7th gen. Code gone and returned again. A mechanic told me it might be the Vent valve next to the charcoal canister.
A friend just came by and these are the codes we pulled. Did the cap o'ring grease and cleared codes. Looked under the hood found what I thought was the solenoid and tapped it. Started and no cel. Looked the codes up anyway as I figured solenoid is on the way out. 80% of my understanding of cars is UA-cam based, and of that Eric you make up for atleast 50% of that 80 which is to say as much as I can considering I'm a junkie for auto repair and channels like RnW, Automatic Transmission, speedkar99, tacomoto, rusty beauties, gearboxvideo, Mighty car mods, and many others I'm forgetting. Hit the jackpot again that you broke down this quick diagnosis, confirmed what I was tapping on to be the solenoid, and that I could jumper to test function with suction (only have a basic obd2 linkmx bluetooth reader). You've repeatedly given freely valuable information and help with your viewers confidence as we would otherwise fumble through it for 4x as long or longer to do it on our own. So thanks for that!
My sisters 2011 CRV was spitting out P1450 and P0497. I took a gamble and bought the part rather than buy a vacuum pump and test the component. This solenoid was the culprit. I paid $68 CAD vs $260+ at the dealer. Thank you for helping us both out.
Thank you for your logical explanation! Also, thank you for explaining that you could power the solenoid without a scan tool! You are obviously a seasoned mechanic. Too many don't know WHY they do what they do, they just replace parts and cross their fingers. You also put in the time to verify that the condition was not due to another issue further back in the fuel system. A+
Replacing the EVAP purge control valve / solenoid fixed the problem on our 2009 CRV with the same error codes plus Check Fuel Cap. The part number: 36162-RRA-A01.
2009 Honda accord 2.4l JUST Passed This Test Initially smoke test revealed CANNISTER and FILLER TUBE Leak. Canister with vent valve, all rubber molded hoses, Gas Cap and Filler Tube were replaced. it lasted 6 months. came back p0497-p145C. Noted the vacuum line from purge to intake was loses trimmed back secured. Conducted vacuum test with bi-directional, passed: 25- 0 mercury quickly. I'm told from Honda tech use Honda purge valve, or the electronics will fail and generate the code. any thoughts before I conduct smoke test 2?
From what i understand, all three electrical parts, purge, vent, and pressure must pass a component test before that test is run, and will set different codes. that specific code means it commanded the vent closed, the purge open, and did not see a change in tank pressure. whenever possible, i run the test and monitor evap pressure pid, as this is not the 'small leak' code.
Thanks! So it looks like it's the "purge valve" (Honda part#: 36162-RRA-A01) that need to be replaced, right? Can we assume that based on your experience, >90% of chances it's that purge valve that need to be replaced (when getting the EVAP Trouble Codes P145C and P0497)? Also, is "overfilling gas" the main root cause of these "purge valve" would fail prematurely? Thanks!
TLDR; if you get an emissions system issue on your Honda your cheapest and easiest fix is going to be to replace your gas cap with an OEM Honda gas cap. Change your gas cap. That's the first thing a diagnostic chart is going to recommend that a mechanic do. Here's a story that might help some of you. I replaced the gas cap on my 2012 Civic from the OEM gas cap to a NAPA generic cap a year ago. A code came up, I went to NAPA and the scan tool diagnosed that as the problem. I changed the OEM Honda gas cap with a $15 NAPA gas cap. Here's the kicker: A year later (today) an emissions system code came on with a check engine light. I suspected it might be the gas cap again because sometimes replacement parts trip the sensors in the evap system. So, I went to Pep Boys and had them run a scan tool on it. P0497 and P145C codes came up. That's low purge flow (P0497) and P145C is a generic, catch-all emissions issue code. I told the guy there what happened and that I suspected it was the replacement gas cap. He suggested I bring it back to Pep Boys where they'd charge me $110 for diagnostics and additional charges 'if' it needed a smoke test. It felt like BS. So, I went to Honda and bit the bullet for the $78 OEM gas cap. Came back, replaced it (kind of a pain because it is tethered but finally got it) and disconnected the negative terminal of the battery to reset the computer. Reconnected the battery, crossed my fingers, and started the car. Guess what? All clear! I'm pumped.
I replace the solenoid I'm still getting a check engine light. I put a new fuel cap on it. My question is what would be the next logical step? Would it be the canister shutoff valve?
@@glengarbera7367 yep I bought a Ford. The car was on its last leg anyway. The moral of the story is do not top off your tank if you're filling up your vehicle and it shuts off do not put any more fuel in it. That's what caused the problem. I'm old school I'm not used to all this new BS on these vehicles. You keep topping off your fuel tank in these newer cars with these canister evaporators. You will run into the same problem. Again once that pop shuts off when you're filling it up do not put any more gas and spread the word. Let your family and friends know. You're not going to go that much further with an extra 50/60 in the gas tank. But it will cost you dearly if you keep doing it trust me.
Hey man thanks for your video, so when you change the VALVE ASSEMBLY, PURGE CONTROL SOLENOID is that going to clear both code Trouble Codes P145C and P0497.
hi thanks! can this cause damage to any part of the engine if not taken care of quickly.. or is it mainly an emissions concern? Both being of equal importance, of course. I'm just curious.
Thanks for the video. I have this code(P0497) on Acura MDX 2003, I will start by replacing gas cap and then solenoid, what next? The reason I ask is, the diagnostic cost is probably the same as sum of all parts(I will do all the labor work). I rather spend some extra dollars and put in new parts versus spend 2 hours for diog only to do this again next year. Please let me know your thoughts... EDit: purge solenoid ticking and this code pretty much came in at the same time.
Right now I have the check fuel cap. I was going to replace. the cost is $45. the other day I got the check engine with the P145C code. Came out of my appointment and the check engine light was off and the check fuel cap was back on. Don't want to waste $45 on a fuel cap if its something else. could the faulty part described in the video be throwing an error that doesn't relate to the cap?
Hey there - working on a 2004 CR-V with ONLY a P0497 code set. PCS tests good and nothing else visibly wrong. Unfortunately, no access to a smoke machine as I am DIY and not a pro... Found the Honda FSM for my model with ZERO reference to the P0497 DTC. Any ideas of where to go next? Next weekend I am going to crawl under it and check everything related to the canister just to be sure, but it seems like the wrong DTC for canister or vent related issues. Trusting the PCM here, maybe foolish, maybe not. Thanks in advance!
Thank you for the video. I have a Honda Pilot 2011 and both codes came on P145C as well as the P0496. I replaced the solenoid cannister purge valve and the gas cap and after a week both codes came back. is there another part it could be?
@@jaypants6129 I changed that yesterday and I already changed the fuel cap. Today the light came back. Next step is clean the EGR? Looks like 2 bolts to remove
Hi mate . I have these codes on the 2006 odyssey the filler neck oring the po497 , the po457 low purge flow. But instead of po145c I have po 1457. And what scantool do you use and is tgere a comprehensive scan tool not 5k for non profesionals. Thank you
Quick question, should both sides (connection going to the intake and the connection going to the gas) of the purge solenoid hold vacuum and are you testing the side that connects to the intake?
Great video. Straight to the point, and sweet testing instructions. I've narrowed it down to that on my 09. Took top of air cleaner box and filter off to get a screwdriver in there. These things are NOT moving. Ok to shoot it with some penetrating oil over night and replace when the engine is good and cold? Or is there a better way to attack this thing? Thanks!
Hi ,i had replace the EVAP valve same the one on video in my CRV honda 2008. but the engine light still on, Can you tell me i need to replace the EVAP valve right on the Canister or i have to reset the code or not.thank you very much for your help.
My 08 accent has this code, changed gas cap w factory one, new purge valves f & r, smoke tested, all hoses good, gas tank n charcoal canister look good...but the light keeps coming on every cycle. Ive already been taken for $400.00
Same here. New purge valve, Front & rear, new EGR, I guess I'll drop the canister in the back. I don't care about the emissions code but I got stuck in a ditch because my AWD is disabled by codes. Any luck yet ?
I'm one of ur subscriber, I'm wondering if u could answer my question. My question is ur using very expensive scan tools, any kind of expensive tools, etc. and then found out that one valve in front of you easy to change then the Engine light is fix for example. How you determine the bill for this kind of fix.
hey eric im attempting to change a knock sensor on a 2010 chevy colbat with the 2.2 liter ecotech. would it be easier to jack up the front of the car drop the starter in order to access sensor
I have a check fuel cap on a 2010 CR-V EX, replaced with an OEM fuel cap and this warning message still intermittent. I connected a scanner when the check fuel cap message is active, but the scanner reported no DTC and a green LED means all is good and clear. What seems to be the trouble here?
Now, I have a check engine light, so it was an early sign (from last year) for that intermittent check fuel cap message. I have P145C & P0497. Is this 100% the canister purge valve solenoid is the culprit?
replaced the solenoid, which got rid of the check gas cap message but intermittent engine light still present with the 145c code. fuel economy also not good
07 Acura TL type s with the tighten fuel cap coming on and off. It happens when I take turns or brake hard. Tonight it went from nothing to p145c and p0497. I bought a evap purge solenoid from Napa a couple weeks ago and the tighten fuel cap went away for a week and then came back. I also replaced the gas cap. I think I may have a bad connector or cracked hose somewhere.
Jay Cobarrubias I guess it was the evap purge valve. I bought one from Napa and it fixed all of my issue for one week and then the issues came back. I bought a oem one from oemacuraparts.com and so far no issues.
Tom Luong both of the codes have came on my 2009 honda pilot truck . I have replaced cap and still on I have been still driving truck am I doing any damage to my emission system or any damage period. thanks
Thanks for this man! Last one of the day, easy troubleshoot.... when your as good as you! So you take the time to share, thanks! P.S.. so did that fix both errors then? Because 1 is connected to the other?
mine ended up being the canister vent valve, canister had water inside and solenoid was not clicking from the water damage, cleaned out the water and passed inspection
hi there I'm from Barrie I have a 05 1.7 L Honda civic I've replaced the Catalytic converter manifold studs and gasket plus muffler . I have a p0497 low purge flow code so I also replaced the canister purge valve solenoid , after I replaced it I was wrong on my diagnosis , because the code returned . I checked the vacuum line coming from the manifold, there is vacuum I'm not sure what my next step should be as far as diagnosis goes
You can use a 12V power supply (battery) to test the valve and see if it is functioning correctly. Unplug the harness connector from the valve, and use a jumper wire to apply 12V to the valve, doesn't matter which terminal on the valve you apply + or - to. Just apply voltage to the valve, not your harness, otherwise you will more than likely damage your PCM. Once you have power and vacuum applied, replicate the tapping that he does, and see if you get the same results. The scanner just utilizes the connections and the PCM to do the same as an outside voltage source without disconnecting the harness from the valve. This would also help diagnose if there was an issue with the wiring since the signal is coming from the computer commanding the valve to close since it's state is normally open. If the valve didn't close, and the scanner is showing the duty cycle to be near 100% then there might be a broken wire or faulty connection to the valve.
Thanks for the video. I just replaced mine in a 2009 Pilot, $70 for the part. Took about 30 minutes. Most of that time was spent trying to get one screw loose. As a bonus, I found a "lost" tool under the hood. Winning day all the way around.
I have a 2008 CRV that had the exact symptoms. It started with the gas cap warning for about a month. (A new gas cap didn't solve the problem) Then the engine light came on with the codes P145C and P0497. My checking of the purge solenoid was not as sophisticated. I took the solenoid out and checked it on my bench with a 12 volt supply. (To remove the solenoid getting the bottom screw out wasn't fun....) I just blew threw it and then applied 12v. I was dissapointed because I found it seemed to be working fine.
Not having anything to lose other than the $40 for a new solenoid, I decided to change it anyway. Much to my surprise after driving about 5k (yes I'm in Canada) the check fuel cap stopped flashing and no engine light!
Thanks so much for the tip. The Honda dealer wanted $90 just to diagnose the problem?. Great video...
I have the same symptoms. It was not showing a code when I went to the dealer. Check engine light came on today and using my scanner now it shows these two codes. I think I finally have my definite answer! Honda wanted $150 to diagnose and I'm glad I did not go that route.
I replaced the purge valve on a V6 accord 7th gen. Code gone and returned again. A mechanic told me it might be the Vent valve next to the charcoal canister.
A friend just came by and these are the codes we pulled. Did the cap o'ring grease and cleared codes. Looked under the hood found what I thought was the solenoid and tapped it. Started and no cel. Looked the codes up anyway as I figured solenoid is on the way out.
80% of my understanding of cars is UA-cam based, and of that Eric you make up for atleast 50% of that 80 which is to say as much as I can considering I'm a junkie for auto repair and channels like RnW, Automatic Transmission, speedkar99, tacomoto, rusty beauties, gearboxvideo, Mighty car mods, and many others I'm forgetting.
Hit the jackpot again that you broke down this quick diagnosis, confirmed what I was tapping on to be the solenoid, and that I could jumper to test function with suction (only have a basic obd2 linkmx bluetooth reader).
You've repeatedly given freely valuable information and help with your viewers confidence as we would otherwise fumble through it for 4x as long or longer to do it on our own.
So thanks for that!
My sisters 2011 CRV was spitting out P1450 and P0497. I took a gamble and bought the part rather than buy a vacuum pump and test the component. This solenoid was the culprit. I paid $68 CAD vs $260+ at the dealer. Thank you for helping us both out.
Thank you for your logical explanation! Also, thank you for explaining that you could power the solenoid without a scan tool! You are obviously a seasoned mechanic. Too many don't know WHY they do what they do, they just replace parts and cross their fingers. You also put in the time to verify that the condition was not due to another issue further back in the fuel system. A+
Outstanding video ...great refresher fore a 62 year old mechanic. Thank you
straight forward and precise! none of the other bullshit.. thanks for the helping regular people and fellow mechanics like i am. :D
Thank you, Eric.That helped a lot with fixing my buddy's Honda P0497 problem.
Replacing the EVAP purge control valve / solenoid fixed the problem on our 2009 CRV with the same error codes plus Check Fuel Cap. The part number: 36162-RRA-A01.
brian0918 what’s an ideal cost for having that replaced?
Replacing that part fixed these codes on my 2012 Civic Si, thanks Eric.
hey which part did u replace exactly?
also have a 2012 civic si throwing those codes right now
@@seifhelmy5832 Canister purge solenoid or whatever the Honda equivalent is. Google the code, it was like a $50 part at my local auto store
Replaced mine on 2011 Honda Pilot and problem solved. I also had fuel cap error which disappeared. Thanks
Thanks for info on evap because of your vids I'm getting a much better understanding of how the things work , please keep it up
2009 Honda accord 2.4l JUST Passed This Test
Initially smoke test revealed CANNISTER and FILLER TUBE Leak.
Canister with vent valve, all rubber molded hoses, Gas Cap and Filler Tube were replaced.
it lasted 6 months.
came back p0497-p145C.
Noted the vacuum line from purge to intake was loses trimmed back secured.
Conducted vacuum test with bi-directional, passed: 25- 0 mercury quickly.
I'm told from Honda tech use Honda purge valve, or the electronics will fail and generate the code.
any thoughts before I conduct smoke test 2?
From what i understand, all three electrical parts, purge, vent, and pressure must pass a component test before that test is run, and will set different codes. that specific code means it commanded the vent closed, the purge open, and did not see a change in tank pressure.
whenever possible, i run the test and monitor evap pressure pid, as this is not the 'small leak' code.
Nice quick test! Probably not part of the Honda Diagnostic test.
Thanks! So it looks like it's the "purge valve" (Honda part#: 36162-RRA-A01) that need to be replaced, right? Can we assume that based on your experience, >90% of chances it's that purge valve that need to be replaced (when getting the EVAP Trouble Codes P145C and P0497)? Also, is "overfilling gas" the main root cause of these "purge valve" would fail prematurely? Thanks!
TLDR; if you get an emissions system issue on your Honda your cheapest and easiest fix is going to be to replace your gas cap with an OEM Honda gas cap.
Change your gas cap. That's the first thing a diagnostic chart is going to recommend that a mechanic do. Here's a story that might help some of you. I replaced the gas cap on my 2012 Civic from the OEM gas cap to a NAPA generic cap a year ago. A code came up, I went to NAPA and the scan tool diagnosed that as the problem. I changed the OEM Honda gas cap with a $15 NAPA gas cap. Here's the kicker: A year later (today) an emissions system code came on with a check engine light. I suspected it might be the gas cap again because sometimes replacement parts trip the sensors in the evap system. So, I went to Pep Boys and had them run a scan tool on it. P0497 and P145C codes came up. That's low purge flow (P0497) and P145C is a generic, catch-all emissions issue code. I told the guy there what happened and that I suspected it was the replacement gas cap. He suggested I bring it back to Pep Boys where they'd charge me $110 for diagnostics and additional charges 'if' it needed a smoke test. It felt like BS. So, I went to Honda and bit the bullet for the $78 OEM gas cap. Came back, replaced it (kind of a pain because it is tethered but finally got it) and disconnected the negative terminal of the battery to reset the computer. Reconnected the battery, crossed my fingers, and started the car. Guess what? All clear! I'm pumped.
Bro, just must say that you explain stuff perfectly and are awesome.
By the way your very,very skilled person and Humble. Im having Fun watching your
videos for sure ill keep watching.
R Gelacio Glad you enjoy them
I replace the solenoid I'm still getting a check engine light. I put a new fuel cap on it. My question is what would be the next logical step? Would it be the canister shutoff valve?
Did you ever figure out problem with evap solenoid?
@@glengarbera7367 yep I bought a Ford. The car was on its last leg anyway. The moral of the story is do not top off your tank if you're filling up your vehicle and it shuts off do not put any more fuel in it. That's what caused the problem. I'm old school I'm not used to all this new BS on these vehicles. You keep topping off your fuel tank in these newer cars with these canister evaporators. You will run into the same problem. Again once that pop shuts off when you're filling it up do not put any more gas and spread the word. Let your family and friends know. You're not going to go that much further with an extra 50/60 in the gas tank. But it will cost you dearly if you keep doing it trust me.
i change this maybe 2 months ago and now its back? is it something else ?
Dr O! I didn’t know you was a doctor!! Haha. Anyway, I’m diagnosing a p145c on my 2009 accord. Im sure this video will help me out!
Thank you Eric, helped me diagnose a stick valve.
Would i get a tighten gas cap message with this also? 2011 Honda Pilot... I have both the codes.
Yes
Hey man thanks for your video, so when you change the VALVE ASSEMBLY, PURGE CONTROL SOLENOID is that going to clear both code Trouble Codes P145C and P0497.
hi thanks! can this cause damage to any part of the engine if not taken care of quickly.. or is it mainly an emissions concern? Both being of equal importance, of course. I'm just curious.
Anthony James Nope no engine damage, you will just be killing all the trees, bunnies and puppies
Oh and thought I liked you?
Huh? I was just being smart... It won't hurt your engine at all it is only an environmental concern. I
How much did that job you did cost?
I'd have to look it up it was a while ago...
Don't really recall. Just what ever the EVAP solenoid costs plus a little labor to diagnose.
Thanks for the video. I have this code(P0497) on Acura MDX 2003, I will start by replacing gas cap and then solenoid, what next? The reason I ask is, the diagnostic cost is probably the same as sum of all parts(I will do all the labor work). I rather spend some extra dollars and put in new parts versus spend 2 hours for diog only to do this again next year. Please let me know your thoughts...
EDit: purge solenoid ticking and this code pretty much came in at the same time.
Right now I have the check fuel cap. I was going to replace. the cost is $45. the other day I got the check engine with the P145C code. Came out of my appointment and the check engine light was off and the check fuel cap was back on. Don't want to waste $45 on a fuel cap if its something else. could the faulty part described in the video be throwing an error that doesn't relate to the cap?
Very smart way to test solenoid . Thank you .
Hey there - working on a 2004 CR-V with ONLY a P0497 code set. PCS tests good and nothing else visibly wrong. Unfortunately, no access to a smoke machine as I am DIY and not a pro...
Found the Honda FSM for my model with ZERO reference to the P0497 DTC.
Any ideas of where to go next?
Next weekend I am going to crawl under it and check everything related to the canister just to be sure, but it seems like the wrong DTC for canister or vent related issues. Trusting the PCM here, maybe foolish, maybe not.
Thanks in advance!
I have the same issue.
Did you ever figure out a fix?
thanks for your videos, I have 2014 honda crv awd , and the light of AWD is on always, can you give and idea why ?
Thank you for the video. I have a Honda Pilot 2011 and both codes came on P145C as well as the P0496. I replaced the solenoid cannister purge valve and the gas cap and after a week both codes came back. is there another part it could be?
It's the purge solenoid by the engine. Replace that too.
Same issue
@@kajiggaa in my case I had a bad Solenoid Cannisters Purge Valve. Once it was replaced again the problem went away.
@@jaypants6129 I changed that yesterday and I already changed the fuel cap. Today the light came back. Next step is clean the EGR? Looks like 2 bolts to remove
@@kajiggaa I didn't have to do that. After replacing the same part twice my issue was resolved. I had a bad part the first go around.
07 odyssey 3.5 code p145c. Replaced purge valve and light was off for 2days any suggestions. Thanks
Hi mate . I have these codes on the 2006 odyssey the filler neck oring the po497 , the po457 low purge flow. But instead of po145c I have po 1457. And what scantool do you use and is tgere a comprehensive scan tool not 5k for non profesionals. Thank you
Hi, I have the same codes problem but on a Honda Odyssey 2012, you know if is the same or is different for every car??
I have 07 accord v6. Suddenly when I start my car the engine is whinning. Any ideas? Funny just got car inspected yesterday.
One of the best Mechanics I've ssen
Dr. O. 1 question this solenoid should be working all the time or just for periods of time? Thank you.
Quick question, should both sides (connection going to the intake and the connection going to the gas) of the purge solenoid hold vacuum and are you testing the side that connects to the intake?
Great video. Straight to the point, and sweet testing instructions. I've narrowed it down to that on my 09. Took top of air cleaner box and filter off to get a screwdriver in there. These things are NOT moving. Ok to shoot it with some penetrating oil over night and replace when the engine is good and cold? Or is there a better way to attack this thing? Thanks!
Hi ,i had replace the EVAP valve same the one on video in my CRV honda 2008. but the engine light still on, Can you tell me i need to replace the EVAP valve right on the Canister or i have to reset the code or not.thank you very much for your help.
What side of the valve did you hook the vacuum pump to?
My 08 accent has this code, changed gas cap w factory one, new purge valves f & r, smoke tested, all hoses good, gas tank n charcoal canister look good...but the light keeps coming on every cycle. Ive already been taken for $400.00
Same here.
New purge valve, Front & rear, new EGR, I guess I'll drop the canister in the back.
I don't care about the emissions code but I got stuck in a ditch because my AWD is disabled by codes.
Any luck yet ?
I'm one of ur subscriber, I'm wondering if u could answer my question. My question is
ur using very expensive scan tools, any kind of expensive tools, etc. and then found out that one valve in front of you easy to change then the Engine light is fix for example. How you determine the bill for this kind of fix.
R Gelacio I just bill by the hour is all
hey eric im attempting to change a knock sensor on a 2010 chevy colbat with the 2.2 liter ecotech. would it be easier to jack up the front of the car drop the starter in order to access sensor
Do you have a video where is shows how the purge valve was replaced?
I bought a new OEM gas cap and replaced it on my 2011 CRV. Problem solved.
I have a check fuel cap on a 2010 CR-V EX, replaced with an OEM fuel cap and this warning message still intermittent. I connected a scanner when the check fuel cap message is active, but the scanner reported no DTC and a green LED means all is good and clear. What seems to be the trouble here?
Now, I have a check engine light, so it was an early sign (from last year) for that intermittent check fuel cap message. I have P145C & P0497. Is this 100% the canister purge valve solenoid is the culprit?
THANK YOU VERY SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP.CAN YOU MAKE THE VIDEO HOW TO CHANGE AND REPLACE IT THANK YOU AGAIN
I replaced the part. 3 months later same error. Think I bought a bad one?
Isn't there also a larger module down by the passenger fender that also needs to be replaced?
replaced the solenoid, which got rid of the check gas cap message but intermittent engine light still present with the 145c code. fuel economy also not good
I replaced the PCS (had water in it) on a 2011 CRV, it successfully got rid of the code P0497, but code P145C reappeared. What to do?
Hey i got a 2005 accord v6 with p0497 code What would be purge solenoid?
07 Acura TL type s with the tighten fuel cap coming on and off. It happens when I take turns or brake hard. Tonight it went from nothing to p145c and p0497. I bought a evap purge solenoid from Napa a couple weeks ago and the tighten fuel cap went away for a week and then came back. I also replaced the gas cap. I think I may have a bad connector or cracked hose somewhere.
I'm in the same situation as you man. Did you ever get it fixed?
Jay Cobarrubias I guess it was the evap purge valve. I bought one from Napa and it fixed all of my issue for one week and then the issues came back. I bought a oem one from oemacuraparts.com and so far no issues.
I have the same codes on my Acura TL 2013
How to repair code B145 ... what does it mean?? For a 2010 Honda crv (AWD)
Hi Dr O, how much should this repair cost me?
Hi Can i change the canister purge solenoid too to get this code or light off. thank you again.
Tom Luong
both of the codes have came on my 2009 honda pilot truck . I have replaced cap and still on I have been still driving truck am I doing any damage to my emission system or any damage period. thanks
That didn’t fix my 2011 Honda CR-V I’ve changed the the cap purge valve and the pressure sensor what’s next?
What was your resolution?
Thank you your videos are so helpful.
Thanks for this man! Last one of the day, easy troubleshoot.... when your as good as you! So you take the time to share, thanks!
P.S.. so did that fix both errors then? Because 1 is connected to the other?
Yes, Just did this on my sisters CRV. The fuel cap error was cleared once the other code (solenoid issue) was resolved. Two birds with one stone.
Is this similar to the PO498 code? I just got that code on my 2011 CRV and I am trying to figure out what it is.
The Google the code dude..... lol.
mine ended up being the canister vent valve, canister had water inside and solenoid was not clicking from the water damage, cleaned out the water and passed inspection
hi there I'm from Barrie I have a 05 1.7 L Honda civic I've replaced the Catalytic converter manifold studs and gasket plus muffler . I have a p0497 low purge flow code so I also replaced the canister purge valve solenoid , after I replaced it I was wrong on my diagnosis , because the code returned . I checked the vacuum line coming from the manifold, there is vacuum I'm not sure what my next step should be as far as diagnosis goes
Is it the same part for Honda Civic 2012 I have the code p0497
excellent work- thank you !
YW Thanks for watching :)
Any way you can tell us how to replace that part? Or where it is. Please?
I don't have a professional scanner like he does I"ll have to check vacuum manually so when he says jump power ground across...what does he mean?
You can use a 12V power supply (battery) to test the valve and see if it is functioning correctly. Unplug the harness connector from the valve, and use a jumper wire to apply 12V to the valve, doesn't matter which terminal on the valve you apply + or - to. Just apply voltage to the valve, not your harness, otherwise you will more than likely damage your PCM. Once you have power and vacuum applied, replicate the tapping that he does, and see if you get the same results.
The scanner just utilizes the connections and the PCM to do the same as an outside voltage source without disconnecting the harness from the valve. This would also help diagnose if there was an issue with the wiring since the signal is coming from the computer commanding the valve to close since it's state is normally open. If the valve didn't close, and the scanner is showing the duty cycle to be near 100% then there might be a broken wire or faulty connection to the valve.
What is the thread size for the mounting screws? I need to replace them. Thanks in advance.
5/16”
What if I replace it and same engine light on Honda Civic 2009 lx
hi from toronto...where is the location purge solenoid? thanks....
Great video thanks!
i have crv 2013 and change it but code come again i dont know what to do ???
Great video. Hi from the UK. Subscribed!!
Mr GShocker Welcome aboard
South Main Auto Repair
Great help thank you
THANK YOU SO MUCH
Thanks eric
Excellent
Classic Dr O
Thank you.
Awesome video!!! Thank you
Thanks man!
smart dude.
thanks great video
Can I cleaning it instead of change it out?
Just change it.
Thanks buddy!
I wonder how much does Part cost at Honda ...
From Honda? $1,000,000. Online from auto parts supplier? $70 + tax and shipping.
Where is the purge valve solenoid canister located on a honda crv?
Anyone got the P0497 code on their Chevy camaro? Mine is a 2011
Thank for sharing
I replaced it and erased code. A week later it came back🤦🏻♂️
I get both codes but no check engine light
So you are getting just a pending code? Means sometimes its working and sometimes its not.
2014 odyssey. 15 minutes and 116 dollars.
TA!
Thank you for your information