We have "The Right Stuff" nowadays, made by Permatex and available at any auto parts chain store. You can be running in 90 minutes. Did the breather covers on my Crossfire with it..... works great!!
exactly that's what I have been recommending for a while now . Way less expensive and flows more easily . The nice thig is that it fits in a caulking gun . The benz sealant was a pain to get out of the tube with that little plunger
@@ricky-sanchezRight Stuff is not typical RTV sealant, it's much better and it's 2-3 times more expensive- but still less expensive than the Mercedes RTV sealant.
Nicely done. I know that the aluminum machine screws are supposed to be replaced ,I think, with stainless steel screws. What I have read says that the reason for aluminum is to prevent galvanic corrosion between the oil breather cover, which I thought was magnesium like the valve covers, and the attachment screws. That is also why I understand the valve cover bolts are painted. The replacement machine screws are stainless which is noble enough to prevent dissimilar corrosion.
NEVER EVER put aluminium and stainless together. They don't like each other at all. They will corrode within 2 years to the point you'll be stripping the aluminium thread when taking the stainless bolt out as the aluminium is softer and will always lose.
Thanx for the video. Wish I had saw this when I did mine about a month ago on my 2000 E320. I used some red high temp RTV and reused the old bolts. One of them snapped off with very little force. I know I'll have to do the job again in 6 months to a year but at least I know the right way to do it next time.
+shwndh Yeah those small bolts are only to apply a tiny clamping force while the sealant sets..the larger valve cover bolts are essentially what hold the cover on..I got lucky with the old bolts..I have since put new ones in
Excellent and very well done. I need to replace the brake booster hose for my 1998 MBZ E320, I took out the old hose end from the booster side, but I cannot take the old hose end from the intake side. Please help. Very much obligated.
IMO, first you should remove the hoses and unclog the small hole from the hose connection point and clean everything up. If the covers are still leaking then you should proceed with this operation. Hoses must be changed if they become plastic-like. Also you have used a lot more silicone than required. Parts of it might separate, block some oil ways, not good. I have only used some silicone on the engines valve cover and on the outside of the ridge. Less chances to fall into the engine that way. No leaks since a year ago. I have reused those bolts twice and nothing happened. Just don't torque the small bolts. Use a small torx key and torque very gently while pressing down with the hand on the cover. Don;t worry, it won;t leak, silicone will do the job well. Should it leak through the bolt, just unscrew and put some silicone under the bolt. O course, replacing is a better idea, but use stainless steel bolts. Big bolts are stronger, they can be reused, but torque gently, don't forget, the other part is a brittle magnesium alloy.
@@andregenter4213 Nobody wants to pay 190$ + for MB logo sealant plenty of company’s make rtv and have done so for just as long as cars have been driven world wide trust there’s one that’s just as good or better
1. The breather cover is on tight. DO NOT PRY ON THE HOSE NIPPLE - IT IS VERY WEAK AND IT WILL BREAK OFF. Don't ask me how I know. If you bust the nipple, the breather cover is not available separately from Benz, you have to buy a new $240 valve cover, which I've had to pay for on both the wife's W202 C280s. 2. Your use of the shop vac did almost no good at all. There is only one hole leading from the breather chamber through the valve cover, thus near-zero chance for debris to fall through. 3 Surprising that the breather has no filter material in it. Even my old air-cooled VWs with oil bath air filters used a matrix to condense oil vapor and keep the oil in the air filter. Nope, Benz simply routes crankcase blowby into the breather cover, then through the rubber hose to the back of the manifold. 4. The (brittle) breather hose connects to a (brittle) gizmo at back of the intake manifold. If you have to mess with the breather hose, examine it prior to doing the work an see if you need a new one, on either side. They tend to crack at the ends; a bad enough crack will allow unmetered air into the engine, possibly setting a P0173 code and illuminating the Check Engine Light. BTDT. 5. Not addressed is removal of the air intake tube where it connects to the intake manifold at the back of the engine. I've found that if you can't press the release bit back there, or pressing it doesn' help, rotate the intake tube upward and the tab will let go, allowing tube removal. As always, YMMV. If you've watched this, you're probably looking forward (NOT) to doing the job. Not to worry, all said and done it's within the capabilities of a moderately compentent DIY'er, but have the correct torx and e-torx sockets handy. Spark plug connectors are pretty tight. The two little aluminum screws on the breather cover should be replaced with stainless screws, not black steel. The valve cover is magnesium IIRC, not aluminum... very light and quite fragile.
It seems you failed to clean out the holes for the small bolts in the valve cover. This is an important step, since there is usually old sealant residue in them. When reinstalling the covers, some new sealant will get pushed into the holes. Hence, if you haven't cleaned them out before, the bolts are likely to bottom out even if they are of the correct length.
Is there any issue with replacing the old bolts with a non-aluminum bolt such as stainless steel from a galvanic reaction? Also where is a good source for the pry tool you used to avoid damaging the aluminum valve cover? Perhaps I missed it but did you replace the two breather hoses? I have heard they are brittle and usually cannot be reused. Is that your experience?
+Chuck Stogner Depending on how hot it is where you live, and the mileage on the car the hoses can be brittle... my car has very low mileage so mine were ok.. You can use stainless or normal steel screws.. I got my pry tool set on ebay.. trim removal kit...you can use a paint stir stick as well...just not a screwdriver that may chip the aluminum cover
Nice vid and useful comments - One observation - would it not be better to use the larger bolts to seat the cover and then fit the M5s ? Less stress on the M5s then. Also maybe the larger bolts could be used to 'pilot' the cover into position by poking them through into their holes whilst holding the cover up ? I've not done this job so just my theories.
I have a 2004 mercedez Benz clk 500 I having a hard time replacing the valve cover gasket on the passenger side leaked on me twice I had to replace a gasket and I already broke at least 4 bolts trying to tighten the. With pound pressure force, can you tell me of there a specific pattern to tighten the bolts or foot pound torque people 8nm or 9nm 6 pounds of torque pressure other people say it's a 3 stage tighting process tighten every 30 minutes until it's 9nm 6ft pounds of pressure, idk what I'm doing wrong
Here is how I did it. I tightened each bolt a little bit at a time. Example, tighten bolt 1 a bit, then bolt 2, then 3, etc. Then go back to bolt 1, then bolt 2, etc. Making a few "laps" or "passes" around the valve cover, getting the bolts tighter and tighter each time eventually getting to 8-9 nm on the final pass. I used 9nm because that is what I measured the value to be with a torque wrench I had. This is probably late for you, but may help others in the future.
Thank you for all the videos, helps alot. Questions though. How to you replace the breather hose that is sitting on top of the throttle body? Do you have to remove the throttle body? Also a metal line is sitting on top. I have the m112 engine. Thanks In advance.
you don't have to remove the throttle body ..You should be able to just pull the hose straight up , you may need to pry a bit with a flat screwdriver ..it;s a bit tight under the metal fuel line, but you can get it off
On the issue of my 2003 SLK320 giving a P0410 check engine error. As you suggested, I removed the three ground wire connections on the top of the engine and lightly sanded them with 300 grit wet/dry to clean all the touching surfaces and put a small amount of anti-corrosion paste on them. I am still getting an intermittent P0410 error. I guess the next step would be to replace the Secondary Air Pump relay if I can figure out which on it is. I tried locating the two prong 12 volt connector to the air pump to try to wire it directly to test it, but it seems to be on the underside of the pump. Can you help me with info on where to locate these two items and let me know if you recommend taking the motor apart to repair it or using an after market replacement air pump motor..
The K40 relay is under the plastic box/cover on the passenger side F6 and F4 are the fuses you are looking for .. I would pull the pump motor and see if the pump is working ..Odd the connection is underneath ..should be on top right....does the pump run when cold starting ??
I have checked the fuses and they seem OK. Those are the big 30 or 40 amp fuses? I was trying to locate the Secondary air pump relay. Is that on the passenger or driver side? I may have missed the connection on top. I will recheck. If the pump is running should I hear any particular type of sound? If the relay is broken, would not the pump not be running?
the pump should sound like a hairdryer for about 30 seconds when the car is started from dead cold..Then turn off. The likely problem/cause of the code if the pump is running ,is a leak is the big rubber hose that goes left and right out of the pump, one of the vacuum hoses at the front of the motor, or the blue check valve at the very front near the air pump..it is a one way valve .. I have a PDF in my files on steps for checking and clearing the p0410 code... looking for an online source for it while typing lol...Ha .. found it PDF at end of post # 6 www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1626106-dreaded-m119-air-injection-port-repair.html
Why do the screws matter if the e-Torx bolts are applying more torque? You think pulling the hose and spraying brake cleaner down in there will help prevent leaks? Mine just has a little seepage but no where near that bad / to the point of dripping.
+The Stiver the small screws keep the pressure constant along the sealing ridge inside the cover..there are 2 separate chambers . the brake cleaner would prob. evaporate fast enough that it wouldn't get into the valve cover.. ..so that could work to unclog the breather I would think
+fupabox What technique did you use to clean cover and the head where it is mounted. Pardon my ignorance, but is this cover sitting on the valve cover or is this cover you removed the valve cover.
Do they just leak or can they clog up inside? I notice milkshakey goo under the oil fill cap sometimes in cooler weather from condensation. My ML430 doesn't get driven very much or very far which I'm sure doesn't help.
By now, these engines are over 2 decades old in some cases. These valve covers are made of magnesium, and slowly corrode, and degrade away. You can use all the sealants and bolts you want. There is a very high chance they will develop leaks again because the covers distort, and especially the upper breather covers will release powdery debris, which will contaminate the anaerobic sealer. The correct way to repair these for longevity, is to replace the covers with new ones. If your vehicle is over ten years old, and has already had them sealed once, you will be better off replacing them. They are not that expensive, and the new ones are made entirely of aluminum. 112 covers can be bad for under 200.00 USD each st your dealer if you ask nice enough.
Super helpful tip. BUT if we could easily lay down $400 USD for 2 new breather covers I probably WOULDNT be driving a 20 year old car, right ? LOL, just sayin'. Maybe aftermarket all aluminum covers are out there ? On our m112 & m113 I've just tried to gradually learn all the quirks & deal with them in as well & economical fashion as possible !
@@RamTruckSteeringFixlmfaoooo exactly. Tho I have the clk430 and love it to death if I was a millionaire I’d buy all the special top quality parts and top quality tools and just work on it lol but what the heck I don’t have that time or money
Wondering if you could assist with a cranking issue. My 2003 R170 will not crank. The battery seemed to have a bad cell, so I put a new 730 CCA battery and noticed a somewhat large spark when connecting the gound connection. Which I thought may have indicated a stuck relay?? I topped off the new battery using a trickle charger until it was reading 12.95 volts out of the circuit. The car will not turn over, but all dash lights light up. The headlights, windows, and top work fine. I was wondering if sitting with the battery killed or out of the circuit may have tripped a circuit somewhere. Do you have any suggestions? I had a problem with the battery draining down in this vehicle about 4 years ago, but it stopped for a long time. As always really appreciate your advice.
could be a bad engine ground strap . Try grounding the engine to the neg battery terminal with jumper cables and see if it cranks over . If not ,the starter may be pooched or stuck . Try lightly tapping on the starter and see if that frees up the solenoid .
@@fupabox I will try that. Would that be the case if I am getting a spark when I reconnect the battery and get a spark and if I leave the battery connected, it will get drained?
@@fupabox Did several steps with not relsult: 1. Removed the ground cable from the attachment bolt on inside fender, no corrosion, bur cleaned both ends and tightened, but no resolution.. 2. Attached negative jumper cable to both negative terminal and to multiple points on engine bolts but no crank. 3. Checked the voltage difference between the positive battery connection and several ground points and all read as 0.45 volts. Shouldn't that 12.6 - 12..9 v difference. Could not see the starter from above. Is it only accessible from below, requiring a lift? Thanks
I have my valve covers off the engine, I am struggling to get the breathers off, any suggestions? Haven't tried too much yet as I don't want to bend the valve cover.
I discovered it can be very annoying and take multiple attempts. I apply an additional layer of sealant with my fingers on the outside after closing the lid. Plus you shoould use new screws, since the original screws are made of aluminium and are supposed to be one-time use only.
I was lucky. When I redid my valve cover gaskets, The breather wasn't leaking. One of the previous owners had it done before, so I let it slide for now.
I called my local dealer and he said that the bolts causing the problem were 5 x 18 mm, but refused to give me the part number. Never heard of a parts department refusing to do that. Are there 2 on each side or more on the passenger side?
+fupabox Thank you! . Many of the SS bolts I saw on the internet were listed as course without listing the .8 pitch. Hope you don't mind my asking all these questions for you are such as wealth of knowledge.
permatex "the right stuff black " is a better and less expensive product than the dealership sealant . It's what my dealer recommended I but instead of ordering theirs which wasn't available last time I needed some. The permatex was easier to apply as well
Well I can say this. Its funny that he gets so adamant about using old bolts . I did this way before I seen this and I used same old bolts and they were tits never had an issue
A while back I asked you about the clutch cylinder on my 2003 SLK 320. The pedal was spongy and tended to stick in cold wear but worked when it warmed up. I think on a manual transmission that I have both the clutch and brake share the same reservoir. Is that your understanding. The brake reservoir is just a little below full. Just a while ago I was unable to crank the car. I checked the battery and even hooked up a jumper, all the instrument lights came on and the engine cooling fan kicked in, but the starter did not engage, with the clutch depress and the brake depressed. Is there a clutch switch hat indicates the clutch is depressed that may be the problem? The clutch pedal is slow to coming back up from the depressed position. Do you have a video on replacing the clutch and pressure plate on a 6 speed attached to a V-6?
+Chuck Stogner The clutch and brake share the same fluid reservoir ..there is a switch on the clutch pedal to not allow starting without the clutch pressed in. That is possibly the problem....does the clutch pedal feel spongy or does it have resistance as soon as you press it ? Sorry no clutch vid.
+fupabox It now seems to have the same light resistance throughout the down stroke and fairly smooth coming back up. When it was cooler today it was not consistent going down feeling somewhat spongy and would stick some coming back up. Where on the pedal is the switch located and is there a way to bypass it to trouble shoot and to avoid having to have the vehicle towed 30 miles to have the problem checked out? Are there any other interlocks that I need to check out preventing the starting when it does not seem to be the battery or switch?
+Chuck Stogner There should be no other interlocks... the switch is seen easily once you remove the panel above the drivers feet ..attached to the clutch pedal...unplug it and using a wire or paperclip ..connect the 2 connections inside the wire side of the plug together,,,if the car starts the switch is bad
+fupabox Thank you. Is that the knee panel that goes all the way across the opening? Any thoughts on the spongy pedal clearing up? Also when a dealership replacesthe brake fluid would they normally bleed both the brakes &clutch slave? Is the clutch slave bleeder location on the firewall?
+Chuck Stogner I took out six screws but still not coming out. Perhaps I am taking out the wrong panel. This one goes all the way across and has a knee pad on it. It seems like the best to access the screws/panel is to sit in the seat with your head in floor and your feet at the headrest. Does that sound correct?
IMHO the exhaust manifolds should be jet hot ceramic coated. I did mine glad I did, no more rust or discoloring either, they stay like NEW. As long as your ad it do the heat shields too.
@@fupabox It is not cheap but it is a one time expense, around 500.00, and the heat shields were 60.00. They also offer the coating in different colors. IMHO money well spent. My manifolds were really rusted, but now look better than new, and will stay that way.
@@fupabox IMHO yes and the manifolds will be resistant to oil and gas stains as well. As I said before money well spent. Far superior to power coating or anything else that is out there.
We have "The Right Stuff" nowadays, made by Permatex and available at any auto parts chain store. You can be running in 90 minutes. Did the breather covers on my Crossfire with it..... works great!!
exactly that's what I have been recommending for a while now . Way less expensive and flows more easily . The nice thig is that it fits in a caulking gun . The benz sealant was a pain to get out of the tube with that little plunger
I heard that using aftermarket black rtv sealant will leak. You should always use the Mercedes Benz OEM sealant on the breather covers.
@@ricky-sanchezRight Stuff is not typical RTV sealant, it's much better and it's 2-3 times more expensive- but still less expensive than the Mercedes RTV sealant.
But can "The Right Stuff" also replace valve cover gaskets?
Very helpful video! Thank you for all the advice and ideas!
Thank you for such a wonderful video.
The torque spec is on the head of the bolts which is 8.8 NM or 80 in/lb. The aluminum bolts are 4NM or 35 in/lb.
Nicely done. I know that the aluminum machine screws are supposed to be replaced ,I think, with stainless steel screws. What I have read says that the reason for aluminum is to prevent galvanic corrosion between the oil breather cover, which I thought was magnesium like the valve covers, and the attachment screws. That is also why I understand the valve cover bolts are painted. The replacement machine screws are stainless which is noble enough to prevent dissimilar corrosion.
NEVER EVER put aluminium and stainless together. They don't like each other at all. They will corrode within 2 years to the point you'll be stripping the aluminium thread when taking the stainless bolt out as the aluminium is softer and will always lose.
Thanx for the video. Wish I had saw this when I did mine about a month ago on my 2000 E320. I used some red high temp RTV and reused the old bolts. One of them snapped off with very little force. I know I'll have to do the job again in 6 months to a year but at least I know the right way to do it next time.
+shwndh Yeah those small bolts are only to apply a tiny clamping force while the sealant sets..the larger valve cover bolts are essentially what hold the cover on..I got lucky with the old bolts..I have since put new ones in
Excellent and very well done. I need to replace the brake booster hose for my 1998 MBZ E320, I took out the old hose end from the booster side, but I cannot take the old hose end from the intake side. Please help. Very much obligated.
IMO, first you should remove the hoses and unclog the small hole from the hose connection point and clean everything up. If the covers are still leaking then you should proceed with this operation. Hoses must be changed if they become plastic-like.
Also you have used a lot more silicone than required. Parts of it might separate, block some oil ways, not good.
I have only used some silicone on the engines valve cover and on the outside of the ridge. Less chances to fall into the engine that way.
No leaks since a year ago.
I have reused those bolts twice and nothing happened. Just don't torque the small bolts. Use a small torx key and torque very gently while pressing down with the hand on the cover. Don;t worry, it won;t leak, silicone will do the job well. Should it leak through the bolt, just unscrew and put some silicone under the bolt. O course, replacing is a better idea, but use stainless steel bolts.
Big bolts are stronger, they can be reused, but torque gently, don't forget, the other part is a brittle magnesium alloy.
rosharky I took your advice-God willing a small amount of RTV is needed-where I used the Victor Reinz brand of sealant. #praying #thecedes
What is so difficult about it to just stick to the recommendation of MB regarding those things?
@@andregenter4213 Nobody wants to pay 190$ + for MB logo sealant plenty of company’s make rtv and have done so for just as long as cars have been driven world wide trust there’s one that’s just as good or better
جيد
1. The breather cover is on tight. DO NOT PRY ON THE HOSE NIPPLE - IT IS VERY WEAK AND IT WILL BREAK OFF. Don't ask me how I know. If you bust the nipple, the breather cover is not available separately from Benz, you have to buy a new $240 valve cover, which I've had to pay for on both the wife's W202 C280s.
2. Your use of the shop vac did almost no good at all. There is only one hole leading from the breather chamber through the valve cover, thus near-zero chance for debris to fall through.
3 Surprising that the breather has no filter material in it. Even my old air-cooled VWs with oil bath air filters used a matrix to condense oil vapor and keep the oil in the air filter. Nope, Benz simply routes crankcase blowby into the breather cover, then through the rubber hose to the back of the manifold.
4. The (brittle) breather hose connects to a (brittle) gizmo at back of the intake manifold. If you have to mess with the breather hose, examine it prior to doing the work an see if you need a new one, on either side. They tend to crack at the ends; a bad enough crack will allow unmetered air into the engine, possibly setting a P0173 code and illuminating the Check Engine Light. BTDT.
5. Not addressed is removal of the air intake tube where it connects to the intake manifold at the back of the engine. I've found that if you can't press the release bit back there, or pressing it doesn' help, rotate the intake tube upward and the tab will let go, allowing tube removal.
As always, YMMV. If you've watched this, you're probably looking forward (NOT) to doing the job. Not to worry, all said and done it's within the capabilities of a moderately compentent DIY'er, but have the correct torx and e-torx sockets handy. Spark plug connectors are pretty tight. The two little aluminum screws on the breather cover should be replaced with stainless screws, not black steel. The valve cover is magnesium IIRC, not aluminum... very light and quite fragile.
what are the replacement pcv hoses that you need for each side? I have one with a crack in it
It seems you failed to clean out the holes for the small bolts in the valve cover. This is an important step, since there is usually old sealant residue in them. When reinstalling the covers, some new sealant will get pushed into the holes. Hence, if you haven't cleaned them out before, the bolts are likely to bottom out even if they are of the correct length.
Hey so is there a gasket you put on the breather? Or is it that sealant stuff in that tube is all that you need?
Is there any issue with replacing the old bolts with a non-aluminum bolt such as stainless steel from a galvanic reaction?
Also where is a good source for the pry tool you used to avoid damaging the aluminum valve cover?
Perhaps I missed it but did you replace the two breather hoses? I have heard they are brittle and usually cannot be reused. Is that your experience?
+Chuck Stogner Depending on how hot it is where you live, and the mileage on the car the hoses can be brittle... my car has very low mileage so mine were ok.. You can use stainless or normal steel screws.. I got my pry tool set on ebay.. trim removal kit...you can use a paint stir stick as well...just not a screwdriver that may chip the aluminum cover
Great post!
very educative. Thank you regards
Thanks . Glad it helped 🙏👍
Nice vid and useful comments - One observation - would it not be better to use the larger bolts to seat the cover and then fit the M5s ? Less stress on the M5s then. Also maybe the larger bolts could be used to 'pilot' the cover into position by poking them through into their holes whilst holding the cover up ? I've not done this job so just my theories.
yes thats prob a good idea to use the stronger ones to pull the cover in place
i heard there was a third revision for the bolts to prevent corrosion. the new ones have a black coating so they dont seize.
good info .. thanks
I have a 2004 mercedez Benz clk 500 I having a hard time replacing the valve cover gasket on the passenger side leaked on me twice I had to replace a gasket and I already broke at least 4 bolts trying to tighten the. With pound pressure force, can you tell me of there a specific pattern to tighten the bolts or foot pound torque people 8nm or 9nm 6 pounds of torque pressure other people say it's a 3 stage tighting process tighten every 30 minutes until it's 9nm 6ft pounds of pressure, idk what I'm doing wrong
Here is how I did it. I tightened each bolt a little bit at a time. Example, tighten bolt 1 a bit, then bolt 2, then 3, etc. Then go back to bolt 1, then bolt 2, etc. Making a few "laps" or "passes" around the valve cover, getting the bolts tighter and tighter each time eventually getting to 8-9 nm on the final pass. I used 9nm because that is what I measured the value to be with a torque wrench I had. This is probably late for you, but may help others in the future.
Thank you for all the videos, helps alot. Questions though. How to you replace the breather hose that is sitting on top of the throttle body? Do you have to remove the throttle body? Also a metal line is sitting on top. I have the m112 engine. Thanks In advance.
you don't have to remove the throttle body ..You should be able to just pull the hose straight up , you may need to pry a bit with a flat screwdriver ..it;s a bit tight under the metal fuel line, but you can get it off
@@fupabox thanks very helpful
On the issue of my 2003 SLK320 giving a P0410 check engine error. As you suggested, I removed the three ground wire connections on the top of the engine and lightly sanded them with 300 grit wet/dry to clean all the touching surfaces and put a small amount of anti-corrosion paste on them. I am still getting an intermittent P0410 error. I guess the next step would be to replace the Secondary Air Pump relay if I can figure out which on it is. I tried locating the two prong 12 volt connector to the air pump to try to wire it directly to test it, but it seems to be on the underside of the pump. Can you help me with info on where to locate these two items and let me know if you recommend taking the motor apart to repair it or using an after market replacement air pump motor..
The K40 relay is under the plastic box/cover on the passenger side F6 and F4 are the fuses you are looking for .. I would pull the pump motor and see if the pump is working ..Odd the connection is underneath ..should be on top right....does the pump run when cold starting ??
I have checked the fuses and they seem OK. Those are the big 30 or 40 amp fuses? I was trying to locate the Secondary air pump relay. Is that on the passenger or driver side?
I may have missed the connection on top. I will recheck.
If the pump is running should I hear any particular type of sound?
If the relay is broken, would not the pump not be running?
the pump should sound like a hairdryer for about 30 seconds when the car is started from dead cold..Then turn off. The likely problem/cause of the code if the pump is running ,is a leak is the big rubber hose that goes left and right out of the pump, one of the vacuum hoses at the front of the motor, or the blue check valve at the very front near the air pump..it is a one way valve .. I have a PDF in my files on steps for checking and clearing the p0410 code... looking for an online source for it while typing lol...Ha .. found it PDF at end of post # 6 www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1626106-dreaded-m119-air-injection-port-repair.html
Why do the screws matter if the e-Torx bolts are applying more torque? You think pulling the hose and spraying brake cleaner down in there will help prevent leaks? Mine just has a little seepage but no where near that bad / to the point of dripping.
+The Stiver the small screws keep the pressure constant along the sealing ridge inside the cover..there are 2 separate chambers . the brake cleaner would prob. evaporate fast enough that it wouldn't get into the valve cover.. ..so that could work to unclog the breather I would think
+fupabox hmmm... Well I'm going to bank on that theory because this job doesn't look fun at all haha
+fupabox What technique did you use to clean cover and the head where it is mounted. Pardon my ignorance, but is this cover sitting on the valve cover or is this cover you removed the valve cover.
Chuck Stogner it sits on the valve cover... cleaned with brake cleaner
Little note if using m5.8 20mm stainless steel bolts should use correct anti seize
Do they just leak or can they clog up inside? I notice milkshakey goo under the oil fill cap sometimes in cooler weather from condensation. My ML430 doesn't get driven very much or very far which I'm sure doesn't help.
You have a blown head gasket. Of course I guess you probably figured that out by now...
@@ricky-sanchez Compression test was good. Never lost coolant, I definitely had a PCV problem with condensation in there
@@TheStiver Happy to hear that.😁
By now, these engines are over 2 decades old in some cases. These valve covers are made of magnesium, and slowly corrode, and degrade away. You can use all the sealants and bolts you want. There is a very high chance they will develop leaks again because the covers distort, and especially the upper breather covers will release powdery debris, which will contaminate the anaerobic sealer.
The correct way to repair these for longevity, is to replace the covers with new ones. If your vehicle is over ten years old, and has already had them sealed once, you will be better off replacing them. They are not that expensive, and the new ones are made entirely of aluminum. 112 covers can be bad for under 200.00 USD each st your dealer if you ask nice enough.
good info .. appreciate it
Super helpful tip.
BUT if we could easily lay down $400 USD for 2 new breather covers I probably WOULDNT be driving a 20 year old car, right ?
LOL, just sayin'.
Maybe aftermarket all aluminum covers are out there ?
On our m112 & m113 I've just tried to gradually learn all the quirks & deal with them in as well & economical fashion as possible !
the m103 is magnesium, never seen one with such an issue. Silly talk.
@@RamTruckSteeringFixlmfaoooo exactly. Tho I have the clk430 and love it to death if I was a millionaire I’d buy all the special top quality parts and top quality tools and just work on it lol but what the heck I don’t have that time or money
Do you recommend changing the hoses - mine seem impossible to take off without breaking?
If they are brittle , definitely . They are pretty cheap
Strong auto zone or advance auto oil hose with two clamps .
Wondering if you could assist with a cranking issue. My 2003 R170 will not crank. The battery seemed to have a bad cell, so I put a new 730 CCA battery and noticed a somewhat large spark when connecting the gound connection. Which I thought may have indicated a stuck relay??
I topped off the new battery using a trickle charger until it was reading 12.95 volts out of the circuit. The car will not turn over, but all dash lights light up. The headlights, windows, and top work fine. I was wondering if sitting with the battery killed or out of the circuit may have tripped a circuit somewhere. Do you have any suggestions? I had a problem with the battery draining down in this vehicle about 4 years ago, but it stopped for a long time. As always really appreciate your advice.
could be a bad engine ground strap . Try grounding the engine to the neg battery terminal with jumper cables and see if it cranks over . If not ,the starter may be pooched or stuck . Try lightly tapping on the starter and see if that frees up the solenoid .
@@fupabox I will try that. Would that be the case if I am getting a spark when I reconnect the battery and get a spark and if I leave the battery connected, it will get drained?
@@fupabox Did several steps with not relsult:
1. Removed the ground cable from the attachment bolt on inside fender, no corrosion, bur cleaned both ends and tightened, but no resolution..
2. Attached negative jumper cable to both negative terminal and to multiple points on engine bolts but no crank.
3. Checked the voltage difference between the positive battery connection and several ground points and all read as 0.45 volts. Shouldn't that 12.6 - 12..9 v difference.
Could not see the starter from above. Is it only accessible from below, requiring a lift?
Thanks
I have my valve covers off the engine, I am struggling to get the breathers off, any suggestions? Haven't tried too much yet as I don't want to bend the valve cover.
gentle vibration and tapping with a rubber mallet or screwdriver handle .
Use a torch or heat gun . The old sealant will melt & make your life easier.
What is the length of the original bolts
5 X 16 mm
I discovered it can be very annoying and take multiple attempts. I apply an additional layer of sealant with my fingers on the outside after closing the lid. Plus you shoould use new screws, since the original screws are made of aluminium and are supposed to be one-time use only.
I was lucky. When I redid my valve cover gaskets, The breather wasn't leaking. One of the previous owners had it done before, so I let it slide for now.
They usually don't leak too seriously , but if the tiny hole in the breather hose nipple gets plugged .the car can burn a bit of oil
@@fupabox which nipple do you mean?
I called my local dealer and he said that the bolts causing the problem were 5 x 18 mm, but refused to give me the part number. Never heard of a parts department refusing to do that. Are there 2 on each side or more on the passenger side?
+Chuck Stogner 2 of the smaller screws on the passenger side and 3 on the drivers side M5x .8 x18mm is the size
+fupabox Do you know if they are course threads or does the .8 signify that?
Chuck Stogner .8 is the thread pitch ..so it's fine not course..the thread pitch has to be .8 or the threads will strip
+fupabox Thank you! . Many of the SS bolts I saw on the internet were listed as course without listing the .8 pitch. Hope you don't mind my asking all these questions for you are such as wealth of knowledge.
Chuck Stogner that's what I'm here for... no prob. at all
helo. can you send me the part number of original Mercedes-Benz silicone which you used ?
permatex "the right stuff black " is a better and less expensive product than the dealership sealant . It's what my dealer recommended I but instead of ordering theirs which wasn't available last time I needed some. The permatex was easier to apply as well
Did your car ever leak from reusing the original small bolts?
Nope
can anyone tell my why you have to do this? i have the exact engine. Is it only because of leaking or is a known issue on m112?
Ty.
you do it only if the breather cover is leaking oil..
ty
Well I can say this. Its funny that he gets so adamant about using old bolts . I did this way before I seen this and I used same old bolts and they were tits never had an issue
Only because I've had a few snap, and don't want to have to deal with that if I can avoid it with $1 in new bolts :)
@@fupabox I don't mean to be offensive but at time I was frustrated with my truck but I've since figured it out. Forgive me lol
Main thing is ,is you can feel the tensile streanth of a screw so gotta be smarter than it. "Screw you" is what I would reply
@@petergazinya1154 🙏👍😁
You got lucky because the aluminum bolts can snap in a heartbeat.
Where did you get your repair manual from? Did it tell you not to reuse the bolts?
yes the manual states not to reuse the bolts..heres all the benz service manuals enjoy workshop-manuals.com/mercedesbenz/
Thank you kindly.
A while back I asked you about the clutch cylinder on my 2003 SLK 320. The pedal was spongy and tended to stick in cold wear but worked when it warmed up. I think on a manual transmission that I have both the clutch and brake share the same reservoir. Is that your understanding. The brake reservoir is just a little below full.
Just a while ago I was unable to crank the car. I checked the battery and even hooked up a jumper, all the instrument lights came on and the engine cooling fan kicked in, but the starter did not engage, with the clutch depress and the brake depressed.
Is there a clutch switch hat indicates the clutch is depressed that may be the problem? The clutch pedal is slow to coming back up from the depressed position.
Do you have a video on replacing the clutch and pressure plate on a 6 speed attached to a V-6?
+Chuck Stogner The clutch and brake share the same fluid reservoir ..there is a switch on the clutch pedal to not allow starting without the clutch pressed in. That is possibly the problem....does the clutch pedal feel spongy or does it have resistance as soon as you press it ? Sorry no clutch vid.
+fupabox It now seems to have the same light resistance throughout the down stroke and fairly smooth coming back up. When it was cooler today it was not consistent going down feeling somewhat spongy and would stick some coming back up.
Where on the pedal is the switch located and is there a way to bypass it to trouble shoot and to avoid having to have the vehicle towed 30 miles to have the problem checked out?
Are there any other interlocks that I need to check out preventing the starting when it does not seem to be the battery or switch?
+Chuck Stogner There should be no other interlocks... the switch is seen easily once you remove the panel above the drivers feet ..attached to the clutch pedal...unplug it and using a wire or paperclip ..connect the 2 connections inside the wire side of the plug together,,,if the car starts the switch is bad
+fupabox Thank you.
Is that the knee panel that goes all the way across the opening?
Any thoughts on the spongy pedal clearing up?
Also when a dealership replacesthe brake fluid would they normally bleed both the brakes &clutch slave?
Is the clutch slave bleeder location on the firewall?
+Chuck Stogner I took out six screws but still not coming out. Perhaps I am taking out the wrong panel. This one goes all the way across and has a knee pad on it.
It seems like the best to access the screws/panel is to sit in the seat with your head in floor and your feet at the headrest. Does that sound correct?
The aluminum bolts are 16mm long, at least on an M112.
Matt from Florida the correct size is M5 0.8x15 or 16mm. You can get them at Home Depot for $0.75.
what size ended up being the correct length on the bolts?
15mm
fupabox sweet so M5 .8 15mm right?
correct :)
fupabox awesome I'll try to find them so far could only find 16mm bought some from Lowe's but got socket instead of her head :/ can you use 16mm?
16 should be ok
IMHO the exhaust manifolds should be jet hot ceramic coated.
I did mine glad I did, no more rust or discoloring either,
they stay like NEW. As long as your ad it do the heat shields too.
cool. What did it cost to do the pair ?
@@fupabox It is not cheap but it is a one time expense, around 500.00, and the heat shields were 60.00.
They also offer the coating in different colors. IMHO money well spent. My manifolds were really rusted,
but now look better than new, and will stay that way.
@@bobjohnson8206 appreciate the info . Do you think the coating make them any more durable ,or resistant to cracking ?
@@fupabox IMHO yes and the manifolds will be resistant to oil and gas stains as well. As I said before money well spent.
Far superior to power coating or anything else that is out there.
@@bobjohnson8206 i'll have ti give it a go .. appreciate the info
Is your engine the v8 or v6?
v6
Can someone send me a link where I can buy this stuff please?
Permatex ultra black works as well
I get the majority of my Mercedes parts from rock auto.com and fcpeuro.com
This applies for the 2001 c320 v6 also right? Same bolt size?
yes
@@fupabox Thanks...
Пич, през целия клип ти гледахме ръцете!
The replacement M5 screws are supposed to be 18mm long. $4.95 each at my local dealer =/
I used stainless steel bolts as replacements @ 50c each, so they can be reused and will minimise dissimilar metal reaction.
Those are aluminum screws do not use steel ones
Correct length is 16 mm
Crap design, makes you wonder why they didn't use a rubber gasket for them?
wrong srews man :-) Mercedes changed the bolts. The black ones (new Modell) are right. The silver are Jackscrews. Never use those screws twice.
It's not conclusive that dinosaurs were covered in feathers, especially T-rex
Bad design from mercedes there should be a gasket or a o ring on the cover my clk 240 is leaking on both covers
Yeah ,not sure why they used sealant . A rubber gasket would have been better
are you in Ontario?
yes ..North of Toronto
I thought I saw an Ontario Licence plate in one of your videos. I am in Ottawa. Nice job on the videos
Man please not like anything is going to fall in the engine
Yeah,nah
Hello I delete(eliminate) my comment my retailer mercedes my give tightenings and their pressure good day
Oh ok..great ...sorry I didn't get back to you sooner...glad you found the info