THANK YOU!!! Got a quote to replace the valve for $305. Then I found this video. I just took the top off, cleaned the diaphragm put it back together. Runs like new.
THANK YOU! I'm a non-gearhead homeowner who hates the idea of being ripped off by "irrigation guys!" Now, I understand the system and feel confident that I can repair/replace these valuable assets to my landscape system. You're precise and showed me all I ever need to know... unless I have to dig something up. If you have a video for that, then I'm good!
Helpful, quick , clearly communicated and concise. Great job. Good tip about carefully threading the screws back into the valve body. One more tip ... tighten the screws incrementally, and as a group to that you get a flat balanced seal on the bonnet to the body/
Excellent explanation! Thank you. Your tip re cutting new threads is a bonus to be applied to many applications. You would have been an awesome school teacher (assuming you aren't), the highest compliment one can receive IMO. 🙂
Good video. When I’m running an existing steel screw back into its threaded hole, I gently rotate the screw counter clockwise until the beginning of the screw threads mates with the threads in the hole. There is a moment when it drops into the threads and makes a click sound, you can feel it as well. Then of course start the screw clockwise. Works every time. And works on just about anything that is threaded.
I have a 22 year old 16 zone Hunter system on a 1/2 acre property fully landscaped with many trees and plantings. I have replaced a few of these valves in recent years. Now I have 3 or 4 zones failing(not shutting off) and have decided to replace all of the remaining valves I have not changed already, a total of 12. I feel for the additional $4.00 per valve it makes more sense to replaced the whole top of the valve instead of just rebuilding. That way you are getting a new solenoid as well as new diaphragm, filter and gaskets. The entire new valve is $11.00...remove the 4 screws and install the new top half in he old valve body still in the ground. It is more work my way as you have to disconnect all the mass of wiring in order install the new solenoid, then reconnect all the wiring. The wire nuts are a PIA to get off the old wiring and working in a small box a foot in the ground sucks too. The joys of having an underground irrigation system....and we haven't even talked about replacing the pop-up sprinkler heads when they go bad....get your shovel and get ready for some digging.
thank you! one of my valves remains on when it goes to the next zone. Seems to shut off after a few minutes into the next zone. this video will help. Just to confirm, the final position of the solenoid is hand tight? does the position matter where stop after hand tightening?
This is great video! since my sprinkler system is reclaimed water and it seems like there's no shut off valve, and I need to replace the diaphragm. Would you kindly tell me what to do? Thank you
When replacing the diaphragm it seems there is always grit, sediment in the valve body that will stop the diaphragm from properly closing. Hunter has a video that isn't real world nor are there many discussions showing how to properly flush a valve prior to replacing the diaphragm in a completely dry box. After a long period of time that box has lotsa dead bug, twigs, leaves etc that float around and suck back into the valve body which creates another task. What is your method to properly flush a valve prior to replacing a diaphragm while keeping the valve box completely dry?
I wished I would have found this earlier..ended up paying $750.00 for diaphragm replacement on 6 valves!! I was under the impression that the valves were being replaced..unbelievable..I am all about blue collar work getting paid..but to pop off the "bonnet", removing 4 screws and replacing the diaphragm which now cost $6.60 and charging $125.00! Well, come on guys! That is just a little too much to charge in my opinion!
god i hate dealing with these stupid sprinkler valves, they always crap out sooner or later lol, thank god mine is at least above ground and NOT in ground, i hate inground shit
my diaphragm has been breaking in that same exact spot as the first one you showed. not as bad just a little tear. but enough to turn on my section and run it constantly. i've replaced the diaphragm at least 3 times in the last 2 months and have to replace it again now. i've cleaned out the valve well enough but i'm lost as to why it keeps breaking. i thought it was the spring but that doesn't make sense. any thoughts?
Not sure why that would be but I bet you could just replace the entire housing and be good to go. I considered doing that with mine rather than just replacing the diaphragm and solenoid... those two were $15 or so combined and the whole housing including diaphragm, solenoid etc. was $20. Pretty sure when I had my last one fixed the irrigation guy said even with his at home he just changes out the whole unit for no more expensive than it is and that way it is all 100% new.
I replaced a diaphragm on my Hunter SRV 1" Valve due to the fact it was leaking. I installed a new solenoid as well. I removed the old diaphragm which was distorted with a new one and all was fine until the next morning when I woke up and the zone where I replaced the diaphragm on the valve was running wide open at all sprinkler heads with the sprinkler electric controller shut off (unplugged). Any ideas?
THANK YOU!!! Got a quote to replace the valve for $305. Then I found this video. I just took the top off, cleaned the diaphragm put it back together. Runs like new.
THANK YOU! I'm a non-gearhead homeowner who hates the idea of being ripped off by "irrigation guys!" Now, I understand the system and feel confident that I can repair/replace these valuable assets to my landscape system. You're precise and showed me all I ever need to know... unless I have to dig something up. If you have a video for that, then I'm good!
Helpful, quick , clearly communicated and concise. Great job. Good tip about carefully threading the screws back into the valve body. One more tip ... tighten the screws incrementally, and as a group to that you get a flat balanced seal on the bonnet to the body/
Thanks for helping a lady in her 50s!!!💪
Excellent explanation! Thank you. Your tip re cutting new threads is a bonus to be applied to many applications. You would have been an awesome school teacher (assuming you aren't), the highest compliment one can receive IMO. 🙂
Good video. When I’m running an existing steel screw back into its threaded hole, I gently rotate the screw counter clockwise until the beginning of the screw threads mates with the threads in the hole. There is a moment when it drops into the threads and makes a click sound, you can feel it as well. Then of course start the screw clockwise. Works every time. And works on just about anything that is threaded.
Very easily understandable video....thanks for posting this....just had a valve start sticking open today.
I have a 22 year old 16 zone Hunter system on a 1/2 acre property fully landscaped with many trees and plantings. I have replaced a few of these valves in recent years. Now I have 3 or 4 zones failing(not shutting off) and have decided to replace all of the remaining valves I have not changed already, a total of 12.
I feel for the additional $4.00 per valve it makes more sense to replaced the whole top of the valve instead of just rebuilding. That way you are getting a new solenoid as well as new diaphragm, filter and gaskets. The entire new valve is $11.00...remove the 4 screws and install the new top half in he old valve body still in the ground.
It is more work my way as you have to disconnect all the mass of wiring in order install the new solenoid, then reconnect all the wiring. The wire nuts are a PIA to get off the old wiring and working in a small box a foot in the ground sucks too.
The joys of having an underground irrigation system....and we haven't even talked about replacing the pop-up sprinkler heads when they go bad....get your shovel and get ready for some digging.
Thanks so much. Very clear and understandable. This will help me replace my own valve diaphragm with confidence.
excellent video, explains very well Made it easy for me to replace all 5 diaphragms. Thanks.
I have replaced mine but it does not have the white ring. It’s disintegrated. Where do I buy that and how important are they?
Thank you very much Dr.
You don’t have to back the screws all of the way out. Just back them out enough to lift the bonnet off, and leave them in the bonnet holes.
thank you! one of my valves remains on when it goes to the next zone. Seems to shut off after a few minutes into the next zone. this video will help. Just to confirm, the final position of the solenoid is hand tight? does the position matter where stop after hand tightening?
This is great video! since my sprinkler system is reclaimed water and it seems like there's no shut off valve, and I need to replace the diaphragm. Would you kindly tell me what to do?
Thank you
Very helpful. Thanks.
what do I do if I have the same system but I have a well pump?
When replacing the diaphragm it seems there is always grit, sediment in the valve body that will stop the diaphragm from properly closing. Hunter has a video that isn't real world nor are there many discussions showing how to properly flush a valve prior to replacing the diaphragm in a completely dry box. After a long period of time that box has lotsa dead bug, twigs, leaves etc that float around and suck back into the valve body which creates another task. What is your method to properly flush a valve prior to replacing a diaphragm while keeping the valve box completely dry?
I wished I would have found this earlier..ended up paying $750.00 for diaphragm replacement on 6 valves!! I was under the impression that the valves were being replaced..unbelievable..I am all about blue collar work getting paid..but to pop off the "bonnet", removing 4 screws and replacing the diaphragm which now cost $6.60 and charging $125.00! Well, come on guys! That is just a little too much to charge in my opinion!
Replaced valve, sadly zone 6 still won’t pop up!
This video making a real half life!
god i hate dealing with these stupid sprinkler valves, they always crap out sooner or later lol, thank god mine is at least above ground and NOT in ground, i hate inground shit
can you replace a hpv diaphragm with a pgv diagphragm?
my diaphragm has been breaking in that same exact spot as the first one you showed. not as bad just a little tear. but enough to turn on my section and run it constantly. i've replaced the diaphragm at least 3 times in the last 2 months and have to replace it again now. i've cleaned out the valve well enough but i'm lost as to why it keeps breaking. i thought it was the spring but that doesn't make sense. any thoughts?
Not sure why that would be but I bet you could just replace the entire housing and be good to go. I considered doing that with mine rather than just replacing the diaphragm and solenoid... those two were $15 or so combined and the whole housing including diaphragm, solenoid etc. was $20. Pretty sure when I had my last one fixed the irrigation guy said even with his at home he just changes out the whole unit for no more expensive than it is and that way it is all 100% new.
those wire connecters are bad. you'll need the greasy ones.
I replaced a diaphragm on my Hunter SRV 1" Valve due to the fact it was leaking. I installed a new solenoid as well. I removed the old diaphragm which was distorted with a new one and all was fine until the next morning when I woke up and the zone where I replaced the diaphragm on the valve was running wide open at all sprinkler heads with the sprinkler electric controller shut off (unplugged). Any ideas?
Sounds like the solenoid on the valve you replaced the diaphragm on is bad or got something stuck where it will not close.
@@GM-pm4hm Thanks for the response
Pathetic!!!