This is awesome! I imagine if you didn't need the full Y of the build plate, you could further reduce tool change time by just having the liftbar following along with the z-height of the print at any given time as well. Keep up the great work!
6:45 you could try mounting a deflecting plate/bar underneath the inactive toolheads so that the cables do not catch on them while using the full Y-travel
Amazing, thanks a lot! Cant wait for this to be a standard thing you just do to your printer and klipper ships with the software from the getgo. Its IMO the biggest thing that holds 3d printing back, automatic material and color change.
For the bowden tubes, i remember some other builds and tool changers, using a Piano wire to have them arcing nicely and adding some spring to them without restricting them or have lots of bends. Thinking myself about adding a Tool changer mod to my voron 2.4 but having a stealthburner .. not sure if i could just modify my stealthburner or have to build a new toolhead entirely
Does Klipper support this out of the box or did you write code so the bar follows the gantry as it prints? It's a neat concept, I'd like to build one for myself as well.
What kind of constraints are you working within? Could you breakout through the back and add some counterweights? Then it should be possible to fall back to one motor.
just ordered the rails, im also unsre if liftbar is the way to go. i also dont really like the idea of the giant tophat, so maybe theres a way to better organize the cables i think i might try to move all the cables/bowdens onto the liftbar, and have them arranged ike the prusa has, just horizontal. i dont really know about stiffness yet, but one cant really go below the gantry anyway rn because of spaghetti bowden issues. So i dont think its going to be much of an issue, especially since the liftbar could come down, when the X axis has moved further to the front, avoiding tangling in maybe droopy cables.
I tried folding the cables within the stock frame. And it ended up being a sphagetti mess with toolheads being knocked out of the docks on change. There is just too much length to manage. Maybe if some of that is stowed away in the back of the printer, but that adds extra size at the back. The liftbar is very much about giving maximum print volume and Trident support. I would recommend starting with a rigid mount first.
If I may ask, what is that extruder? It has the parts of the HGX lite correct? would the HGX light extruder also work (in aluminium), or is there a reason you are using this printed version?
Hi, that's great to hear! What kind of help you are looking for? I happen to be free for the rest of the week so I'm happy to help. Ping me in Discord @viesturz
Lead screws is def an option. To be fair I have some sitting around I could use. Just this is working well enough and looks nice with 2.4 asthetic. I will make a lead screws build if the belts/gearboxes ever fail.
Yes, as a flexible small cable with the right number of wires. The 100w rated USB cables work nicely. Of course I strip off the USB connectors and wire them up to canbus.
"Something i cant hack shortly (klipper syncronisation)" what you can do ist Wait for the Printhead has done moving, get the "Printer Time" add a second and start boot "Motors" at this Time with the speed you need. (if you like i can figure out the python Methods you have to call)
This is awesome! I imagine if you didn't need the full Y of the build plate, you could further reduce tool change time by just having the liftbar following along with the z-height of the print at any given time as well. Keep up the great work!
6:45 you could try mounting a deflecting plate/bar underneath the inactive toolheads so that the cables do not catch on them while using the full Y-travel
Amazing, thanks a lot! Cant wait for this to be a standard thing you just do to your printer and klipper ships with the software from the getgo. Its IMO the biggest thing that holds 3d printing back, automatic material and color change.
Very cool. Great explanation. I'm teetering on the edge of building my first Voron and vids like this are exciting.
This is actually really clever. You could add a camera to this too and monitor your print.
Great work! Thank you!!!
For the bowden tubes, i remember some other builds and tool changers, using a Piano wire to have them arcing nicely and adding some spring to them without restricting them or have lots of bends.
Thinking myself about adding a Tool changer mod to my voron 2.4 but having a stealthburner .. not sure if i could just modify my stealthburner or have to build a new toolhead entirely
Does Klipper support this out of the box or did you write code so the bar follows the gantry as it prints? It's a neat concept, I'd like to build one for myself as well.
Can you upload a video with a sample of a print with all those print heads?I am intreasted to build a similar project 😅
On a 2.4 with 4 Bed fans, would it be easy enough to invert the stepper setup ? Or does that clash with too many other things ? Love your work mate!
Amazing work. What door hinge are you using for the front doors?
What kind of constraints are you working within? Could you breakout through the back and add some counterweights? Then it should be possible to fall back to one motor.
Trying to fit in a normal Voron frame. Counterweights might be an option, just don't like them.
Neither do I, but it is a way to balance everything, although the stepper will have to accelerate twice the mass. So, may not work out anyways.
you have a fixed bed and a xyz gantry can you just move the gantry Z axis to do the tool change? why do you need liftbar? it's not a trident style
Hello, I would like to know if multi-color printing can now print perfectly? Still in the process of adjustment, I really like this project
gotta love the Voron community :)
modifying a Galileo 2 Z drive might might save some space
just ordered the rails, im also unsre if liftbar is the way to go.
i also dont really like the idea of the giant tophat, so maybe theres a way to better organize the cables
i think i might try to move all the cables/bowdens onto the liftbar, and have them arranged ike the prusa has, just horizontal.
i dont really know about stiffness yet, but one cant really go below the gantry anyway rn because of spaghetti bowden issues. So i dont think its going to be much of an issue, especially since the liftbar could come down, when the X axis has moved further to the front, avoiding tangling in maybe droopy cables.
I tried folding the cables within the stock frame. And it ended up being a sphagetti mess with toolheads being knocked out of the docks on change. There is just too much length to manage. Maybe if some of that is stowed away in the back of the printer, but that adds extra size at the back.
The liftbar is very much about giving maximum print volume and Trident support. I would recommend starting with a rigid mount first.
You do mention the Trident quite a bit for the liftbar project, do you happen to have one? You show it on your 2.4, hence my question ^^'
No I don't have one. Hence using 2.4 as a placeholder
Really cool! I think that if you substitute one of the sides with a pulley, it could simplify the system
I started with that, but the belt tension is a bit much for 6 toolheads. With 10mm belt, maybe.
If I may ask, what is that extruder?
It has the parts of the HGX lite correct?
would the HGX light extruder also work (in aluminium), or is there a reason you are using this printed version?
Well this answered itself just now, you have uploaded the STLs just now.
Thank you
What are the advantages of the lift bar
I designed a lift bar for trident I wanted to ask if you can help me a little bit with the setup please let me know
Thanks 🙏
Hi, that's great to hear!
What kind of help you are looking for? I happen to be free for the rest of the week so I'm happy to help. Ping me in Discord @viesturz
is there a stealthburner version?
i feel like having a liftbar disables the option of just having a 6x6 grid of toolheads :P
I'm not sure if I want to see that for lols or not : 😂
Powering all of that would be a nightmare.
@@viesturz spaghetti monster
How wide each tool and dock?
Why use belts instead of lead screws for the lift?
Lead screws is def an option. To be fair I have some sitting around I could use. Just this is working well enough and looks nice with 2.4 asthetic.
I will make a lead screws build if the belts/gearboxes ever fail.
great work i will try somehting like that mon my blv mgn cube
how much i will buy everything from you
You are using usb cables for CAN ?
Yes, as a flexible small cable with the right number of wires. The 100w rated USB cables work nicely. Of course I strip off the USB connectors and wire them up to canbus.
The Voron ethos around maximizing build volume sure makes adding idex and multi-tool that much harder doesn’t it. No where to put anything.
A counterweight on both sides could help it not move
Amazing!!!
Maybe home at top, just stall like mk3 does to calibrate z, if belt would tolerate
Yes can home at top for sure. I did not do that in my build because the top hat is too low and the umbilicals kept being squished.
"Something i cant hack shortly (klipper syncronisation)" what you can do ist Wait for the Printhead has done moving, get the "Printer Time" add a second and start boot "Motors" at this Time with the speed you need. (if you like i can figure out the python Methods you have to call)
Videography is technically terrible. Anyone who watches it will be seasick.