Відео

Did you mean to mispell the tapchanger in the video title? :)

Would like to see a wear test

that is very nice. Im trying to build a custom tool changer 3d printer, i wouldnt mind extra stepper here, but servos also work i guess.

Where I can find STLs?

Why is there a resistor on the distribution board? Doesn't the toolboard already have one built in?

Do you think the servos are strong enough for the weight of 4 or 5 toolheads?

I think this looks like a good way to make stealth or tap changer work on a Trident.

I don’t use Can Bus on my Hydra tool changer. However I need to test it at some point. I really can’t have the wire coming out the back as my printer are all the way to back to the wall. I also just made new clips to hold the back panel that only are 1 mm in thickness my panels from Biltema are 400x600x4 mm so now only about 5mm is needed so I can max out my Y travel. I really whole like to see a 3d printer board that I can connect 4 Can Bus tools on board and don’t need any distribution board. Even if i only have 4 tools my wiring is easy to do, As they all connect directly to the main board. I use Marlin and BIGTREETECH BTT Octopus Max EZ. I need to do some testing with Klipper and RepRap

Thanks to both of this designs I designed Hydra Tool changer. I use both bearings and bushings. No glue. No support needed to print it. I also adde pin mod for the belt to make it as easy as possible to work on the gantry. Thanks for all your hard work. 🙂 I only print ABS and TPU normally so I only use Stealthburner. I have 4 tools use Marlin and don’t need Can Bus

I wonder what's the benefit of this over something like the prusa xl approach?

Yes, very interesting. Downside is i figure 70 mm lost in y

I am trying to use the tapchanger on a Mercury1.1. This idea is awesome but i think I will still go with the liftbar so that no build space is lost. Love this project! Thank you!

The irony of mostly using this awesome setup just for filament selection. Nero3D said similar about his use of ERCF though. But I'm pretty sure except using occasional two colour print I'm going to be the same. I'm absolutely going to build this soon for my newly built 2.4. Probably just with two toolheads first to get used to it. I really appreciate your design and work on this. It's awesome.

I JUST, like 20 minutes ago, finished the frame of my first Trident, so yes, I think this is useful and interesting. Thanks for doing this.

i think it is a verey good idea

I designed a lift bar for trident I wanted to ask if you can help me a little bit with the setup please let me know Thanks 🙏

interesting comparison, I will probably go for the tapchanger. Where can I find the Board guard you printed in grey?

Nu ļoti grandioza parikte. Bet sarežģīta gan. Bet patika...

this is what you call a cool ass 3d printer

Is there a x endstop mount I can’t find it

I love the bare bones look on the tool head.

This is brilliant! I would love to see more of this!!

I will also be testing them on my own tool changer.

That is perfect.

ouh, this is nice

So, departure from bearings entirely? I doubt you will keep both running in parallel right. Part cooling is on shuttle, does that mean you need the connector that I believe I saw on the tool?

Nice! What Toolhead is that?

Tool changers are so cool

Very cool. Great explanation. I'm teetering on the edge of building my first Voron and vids like this are exciting.

Some issues might be with 90 Ohm impedance of USB cable (should be 120 Ohm, meaning you will have reflections), and maybe adding ferrite bead to 24V and GND might also help. (I guess capacitors should've already helped to some extend). Btw. I sent you a Jig to cut square metal rods on discord, I extended them to be ~30.5mm long

Is something like the ldo nighthawk usb toolhead board helpful here? I feel like can bus is uniquely useful for multiple toolheads thought (as you have it) As much pain as canbus debugging is.

Does Klipper support this out of the box or did you write code so the bar follows the gantry as it prints? It's a neat concept, I'd like to build one for myself as well.

Looks like a great idea. I went through all you Github repositories and can not find the stl or step file for this mod. Can you please share the file for this?

I like the mountings on Tap more, seems more robust.

you have a fixed bed and a xyz gantry can you just move the gantry Z axis to do the tool change? why do you need liftbar? it's not a trident style

"Better safe than sorry..." then proceeds to show some really unsafe wiring.

lo unico que le falta para ser perfecta es que el multi cabezal quede a la altura de la impresion y suba todo el conjunto a medida que la impresion toma altura!

@Viesturs: I really like your tapchanger, but what I don't get is, how do you clamp your belts on the shuttle? There is no way to loop them anywhere? Do I have to cut them on any length and just clamp them under the shuttle? If I then tension them, will they not rip out? Would be great to get some feedback about this.

The big con that I see right now is 'limited support' for Stealthburner? What does that mean?

Hi, where we can find the cover for ebb36? Also, can you showcase how we connect the belts? thank you

Can beacon be used on a tap changer? Wouldn’t just one tool head need a beacon to before qg, Z offset and mesh on the print start? Then Z for all other tool heads could be offset from that tool head?

so I bought a 100W USB-C cable that has 8 wires in it. so I guess I use two pairs for each phase or CAN signal then?

This is actually really clever. You could add a camera to this too and monitor your print.

Nice project!

Can this be adapted to a Sovol SV08?

Looks fancy but a lot of moving parts. When I build I’ll probably be going for a fixed gantry thing

For the bowden tubes, i remember some other builds and tool changers, using a Piano wire to have them arcing nicely and adding some spring to them without restricting them or have lots of bends. Thinking myself about adding a Tool changer mod to my voron 2.4 but having a stealthburner .. not sure if i could just modify my stealthburner or have to build a new toolhead entirely

So is the distribution board just a splitter for canbus?

A counterweight on both sides could help it not move

I wonder if it would be possible to make a leveling head that has either tap or beacon. It can grab the tool to level or make the mesh, then drop it off for the rest of the print.