I apologise for the motion blur seen on this video, it was not a result of incorrect camera settings but it turns out, wrongly selected frame interpolation settings in Davini Resolve. This will be fixed for future videos and I won't make that mistake again. Sorry!
At this point, I do seriously think printers need to start being mounted to concrete floors and walls to reduce vibrations. They just arent heavy enough for the speeds they can now do.
Yeah the stock E5 frame really isn't meant for this, I would love to experiment with all the different options. I think the next time I tinker with a printer this big and fast, it will hopefully be a custom one. Cheers!
Hey im the guy that designed the fan duct that you are using on your ender 3, you want the fan duct to be further up. Yours is maybe 1-2mm gap while printing the first layer but it should be close to 5mm
Hey! Thanks for your concern, I've had it far too low for too long, I've got a new bracket version that holds it higher up but haven't yet printed it. I really like your design and will keep using it, I've been super pleased with how well it works. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton What is the point of the fan ducts?cooldown the laid filement down super fast? is that better for printing? I don't know, I want learn.
Yeah same here, only person I’ve seen using it was Monika McWuff, but it wasn’t super detailed. It’s surprising as it’s a great performing device and in the same price point as other ones too. Hopefully I can bring some light onto it, hotends are fun to mess around with. I hope to make a custom v2 one similar to the STD6 early next year. Schedule is getting a bit busy now so we’ll see. Cheers!
@ That would work great! I didn’t end up testing it with a cht at all, it has so much flow that I don’t even think I reached its limits. Huge potential.
Nice build! The inserts should go into the plastic part from the other side, that way tightening a bolt would pull it into the plastic instead of out. On video editing: I think the motion blur is a bit too much...
Thanks! Andrei made some new parts made that had back pressed inserts, they were much stronger in the end. I'm not sure why the footage seems so blurry, I didn't add any extra motion blur and try to always follow the correct shutter speed, I will pay more attention next time and work on it. Thanks for your feedback!
I had nothing but problems with my ender 5 Pro, but im glad this works for you. im just now getting back into FDM printing via Bambu Labs, and its WONDERFUL
I'm sorry to hear that. My initial experiences weren't perfect, but nothing super frustrating. I continue to hear excellent feedback on Bambu's products, I'm glad it's working for you! I wish I had one of their machines when I started, but I don't know if it would change how I would do things nowadays. Cheers!
Bambu= plug and play (Dumbass Friendly) Creality = a long learning experience and dive into something you better interested in learning or you're gonna hate it 😂
Same! The poor Ender 5 is sitting next to my X1C. I'm not sure what to do with it. Sometimes I think convert it to a Mercury one.1, but then the amount I'd spend wouldn't be too far off another Bambu...
Bambu labs for the win, it smokes the anycubics and crealities I had over 10 years, ended up selling all my other printers as soon as I got the bambu and then bought a second bambu no regrets, the anycubics cobra 2 I had only lasted 2 prints before needing major tinkering while the bambus have just run for years with no issues.
We gonna have an ender 3 speed boat race? I just got a 6:30 benchy on my ender 3 pro. Haven't uploaded yet but yesterday I got uploaded my 8:20 benchy.
@@TommyHoughton I just posted my 6:30 second benchy. Also I changed my UA-cam name, I was Cody Dixon before. That's my name by the way lol 😆 but yeah....... We should collaborate. I plan to start making more videos on my random tests I do, and random things I like to mod.
@@TommyHoughton I have tried 3 times to make a comment, but seems I can only reply for some odd reason, I have a version of Danger Klipper I already updated with the Extended CoreXY motion system if you decide to do the Hybrid mod as well
I've had issues in the past with YT flagging/deleting comments, I apologise for that, it's a pain. That's good to know! I need to have a play around with DK eventually. I'll keep you updated if I do.
Being I built a Merc 1 myself (2WD) last year, the thumbnail sparked my interest and all I can say is I watched the video from start to end while being genuinely entertained by this young man’s approach to everything was just really refreshing and just fun to watch! I loved 3d printing but man most videos I watch I’ll just skip through to the info I may need or particular section interest…. Fuck yeah Tommy great work mate….
i love so much that in every field/area there are people who do extreme unnecessary super cool shit i could watch someone modify, costumize and build stuff all day
It's one of my favourite "genres" to watch when I can. I really appreciate your comment, thanks for watching too! I have loads more crazy things planned for the future. Cheers!
I'm not sure why it's worse on this video, I haven't changed any settings from before, at least, any settings that I'm aware of. I will look into it more since it's a big issue. Sorry!
It’s not UA-cam. Most likely it is camera settings. Notice how he has a shallow depth of field and how bright the blurry scenes are, this means the shutter speed is slow, letting more light in but slowing down the fps. It is always ideal to have double the shutter speed of the intended fps, so 24fps you’d want 1/48 minimum.
@@labemolon5739 I always use 1/50 as I shoot at 24fps, so I'm hoping that's not the case. I will try shooting slightly higher at 1/60 from now now and seeing if it's more pleasing. I couldn't find a node in my power grade that could have affected motion blur, so I'm still confused. Could it have something do with the IBIS of my camera?
Awesome video Tommy! Love your content so much. Currently on my way to build a E3NG and T250 coming up :) Your videos always hype me up 🔥 Thanks Love from Switzerland
Thank you for watching! I really appreciate those kind words :) Good luck with your builds! Leave a comment sometime with an update, I'd love to hear. Cheers!
I appreciate the reminder and concern. I'm not proud of what I displayed in the video and will be taking some time to properly sort it out with connectors, frame grounding and protective coverings. Cheers
Pro tip with heat press inserts (I do combat robotics so I use this strat to make sure they don’t fill apart during my heavy hits) is to put the heat set inserts in from the otherwise. Leave plenty of clearance for your bolts, but that way it pulls further into the plastic if anything. Especially with high infill that solution is usually pretty bulletproof
Apologies for the delay! Every day was counting now so I did a push to get it done. I appreciate your patience, thanks for watching the other ones again too! I rewatched them too actually, it was a while since I last saw them. Hope this one was worth the wait. Cheers!
To ensure squareness do opposite corners first for the frame. The same concept of tightening lugnuts apply to the frame being built. Get a square(triangle shaped) to ensure a 90° corner
I plan on building a custom frame for a machine later next year, I'll get some of those square's and make sure I can do the best I can. Thanks for the advice! Cheers
Very nice. If you can drill down the quality, I'm doing one. You obviously know, mounting the motors on the bottom are your best bet. Run shafts to the top to keep it light weight. Keep us updated on the progress... Good job.
I think the main bottleneck was the lack of belt tension, I've had some great prints so far on this machine but I keep struggling with the belts. The Z axis could do with some improvements too, but the support struts helped a lot. Since Mercury 1.1 has top mounted motors, I went with those, but in the future I plan on designing a machine with the motors inside the frame, I just prefer how much cleaner it is, but I'm sure there's other benefits too. Running shafts would actually look so cool, I might look into that for a high temp build or such. Thank you for your feedback and insight! Cheers
Thank you Boothy! I feel this was a good next step. I hope to advance to a Voron next year, and then a custom machine after that. There's still quite a few flaws with this build, but I've had excellent feedback so far, and look forward to improving. Cheers!
Awesome video! Very nice videography, too. Can I make a few suggestions? 1) Someone else mentioned it, but there's an incredible amount of motion blur (?) in the video. We're not all sensitive to it, but it made me a bit sick. Just FYI! 2) I'm sure it's fine, but crimping over a crimp may lead to reliability issues down the line. Just cut the original crimp, strip the wire a tiny bit and crimp unto that. 3) I think the machine is held back by calibration issues; looking at the bottom of the benchy, it looks to me like the z offset is incorrect, by quite a bit. That could account for some of the layer inconsistencies. And what you've said is probably correct; belt tension is a bit off. 3b) Maybe you could try manual ringing compensation in Klipper? Doesn't require any additional hardware. 3c) I don't know for sure, but the Pi Zero may be an issue. I know that underpowered SBC can cause layer shifting and other weird issues. As commands are sent from the Pi, any hiccups will be felt in the final result. Again, amazing job!
Thanks! Of course, feedback is the best way for me to improve. I'm really not sure what happened with the motion blur, I'm really sorry it was affecting, I will be more careful from now on. I had a hunch it wasn't the best decision to do, thanks for explaining it, I'll fix those when I can. Yep, that's correct, I had it set a bit too high for that run, unfortunately didn't have enough filament to go again - I was a bit annoyed I couldn't tension the belts any more, but that's alright. I used a BTT S2DW accelerometer for input shaping, I forgot to share the graphs and values, annoyingly I have them on my desktop ready... The Pi zero 2w doesn't have enough performance for these numbers, I had some concerns shared before the build. I'd like to upgrade it sometime, but I don't think I will as I'll just run this machine at lower speeds until then. Thank you for taking the time write this and explaining! I really appreciate it and will apply it all the best I can. Cheers!
Whats the back brace thing on the back of the printer? It appears to keep the cables away from the belts in the back. Could you share the file for that?
That's correct, it's to keep the cables away. It was a prototype I roughly designed, I no longer have the file sorry. It should be straight forward to replicate in TinkerCAD or another similar program, as it's just an extruded rectangle and some mounting holes. Cheers!
Seeing you upgrade these machines inpired me to see how fast i could make my stock ender 3, turns out, with the right firmware tweaks and some jankification, almost af fast an the A1 from bambo! Can't wait to see more, totaly insane build from ya!
nice benchy shabed object at the end. be careful crimping onto conectors like that its quite posible you start a fire with all that vibration as there desingned to grip into the insulation and could shake loose off the old crimps causing some high resistance. maybe a voron in the future?
Thanks! I've had concerns be brought up regarding the double crimping, I won't be doing it again and will be redoing them shortly. I appreciate the detailed explanation of it! It's the best way for me to understand and improve. A voron is the next big project on the todo list, (eta february??) and then a custom printer after that. Cheers!
Amazing work! The way it was bouncing around, I feel like it would need to be bolted to a heavy table to get an accurate assessment of quality at high speeds. The movement definitely affected the results.
I looked at the strength calculations of the profiles that are used for this frame and they have a very low rigidity, this is a super flimsy frame for such a speed. The rigidity will increase several times if you simply sheathe the frame with plywood sheets. Also, even if a more rigid frame is installed, it would be nice to install an accelerometer with firmware that allows you to eliminate resonances, although perhaps it is already installed and I heard something in the video.
Plywood sheets is actually a great idea, I jumped straight into researching metal (for a different machine) but it would cost a ton, plywood would be far more economical. I did use an accelerometer in this project, but forgot to include the footage and graphs. Ironically I put some extra effort into documenting it. I'll copy and paste the values I got. "My recommended shaper was MZV at 62.6Hz at 11500mm/s2 for Y, and MZV again at 72.4Hz at 15400mm/s2 for X. Both graphs have a defined peak, but then another less defined peak on the following side of them, possibly from loose components somewhere? Could be a couple of reasons." Cheers!
I don't know what the second peak of the accelerometer sensor is connected with, it could be a harmonic from the main frequency, and instead of plywood it is better to use chipboard, it is a more even material and stable to changes in humidity, and if the issue of the machine's weight is not in the first place, then many elements will be good. And I am also really looking forward to the moment when you come to the fact that instead of a servo drive you will put powerful BLDC motors with a gearbox and encoder instead of steppers, then a fairly small printer can have 50 horsepower :)@@TommyHoughton
I've added the full cuts of the benchys in the description. Yes, following the set rules. The "quality" one was: 400mm/s @50k Accell. 250mm/s for outerwalls. The speed one was: 800mm/s @ 100K (then 110K halfway through) 65 Square-Corner Velocity and 0 Min-Cruise-Ratio Cheers!
The link for the double shear parts for the CoreXY conversion are on Andrei's github which is in the description, the decoupler link is this: www.printables.com/model/430168-voron-trident-stepper-decoupler/files It didn't work as my motor shafts weren't long enough for the double shear in Andrei's parts, and the decoupling system I wanted to use was not compatible with Andrei's parts so ultimately I couldn't use either. Hope that helps. Cheers!
@ Honestly I have no idea, there’s a bunch of factors and I don’t know which one would be the most likely. I will keep looking into it until I get a solution. Otherwise I can just increase the shutter speed a little bit and remove more blur just in case for next time.
Thanks for checking this one out! I know the feeling with broken printers on the todo list... Hope the repair goes well when you get to it! Sometimes a push of "I'll just do 5 minutes of repairing" is all that's needed to get into the zone and knocking it all out. All the best! Cheers
There's quite a variety, I sometime buy the little plastic containers with sorted amounts, but it's easy to buy bags of components as well. Different stores offer different options.
Back when I worked on cars for fun, we used to joke that improving a car might involve jacking up the radiator cap and driving a new car underneath it. I wonder why that comes to mind? ;-)
Sorry for the blur! It's been a highly brought up issue and I'm working hard on trying to figure it out. It won't be the fps/ss issue as I shot 24fps at 1/50s, but I'm wondering if it's a setting I ticked in editing. Regardless, I will sort it out for next time. Sorry again!
I've never been a fan of the normal way of doing heat inserts, having worked on laptops for decades I have seen my share of them pull out. What should be done is the screw come through the other way and that would pull the insert into the object it is inserted into, instead of the force pulling it out.
Having that happen on laptops would be far worse than printed parts, I can bet that's frustrating when it happens. That "reverse" method is far superior, I designed a tensioner in my previous video following it, and it's performed so much better than any of the ones in this video. When I need to design parts in the future, I'll be doing that too. Cheers!
Well, slower speed for wall printing gives a good result. Then print the infill with hyperspeed since it was hidden. I just don't know how rigid it will be compared to normal speed infill.
It's a good technique, I don't remember what exact settings I used for the quality run, but I did just that. I think 250mm/s on the outer walls and either 600 or higher on the rest. I also don't know the effects it has on strength though. Cheers!
I know right! I still watch Monika's video occasionally as a reminder. I don't think I'll be getting much closer to her record any time soon. Ludicrous machine. Cheers!
Im just about to be getting into printing and this video blew my mind. A 3min benchy is insane wtf ive been watching reviews of units to see which first printer im going to get and i swear ive seen a benchy that turned out worse or just as bad as that but it took 5 times longer to print. Im debating between the solvo v6 ace the qidi q1 pro and a few others
I was pretty astounded with the numbers, but with the sheer amount of performance based components, I was expecting for something around that (although the quality was unpredicted.) Other machines are albeit slower, but much more reinforced compared to this. I kinda just took "big number" components and bolted them to this machine, despite the frame still being as weak as it was at stock. I haven't research the SV06 Ace, but I've heard good things about it, the Q1 Pro and the Creality E3 V3 SE, but it depends on budget, printing requirements and preference. Not to sound generic, but even without experience I'd look into an A1/A1Mini as an entry bedslinger, or perhaps something from Qidi or Flashforge for a mid range enclosed machine (such as the 5M from flashforge or the Q1 pro as you mentioned.) The best thing to do is research an absolute ton of machines and tick of your requirements until one, two or three machines remain. E.G enclosure for high temp materials. Eventually a make or break factor will present itself. Cheers!
I'm kind of surprised by the result of the 9 minute quality print. As far as I can tell, my Ender 3 v2 gets pretty similar quality, so nothing special to write about, but it takes around 35 minutes to do that!
I was too, I think with some more rigidity on the components and a higher belt tension, I could iron out the little issues with it. I love the E3V2, I had one in the past and it printed nicely and reliably. Happy printing! Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Wish I knew what I was doing tho. How long have u been a pro at printing? I have to learn so much more, you're video was so interesting. I have my printer on the floor helps with not getting any vibrations with not having any platform between the printer and Ground, I hope your videos some days has multi million views. it deserves it U must have a film or videography background no?
@@theriwen Pro is a heavy overstatement, I barely know what I'm doing half the time. I started in 2019 and have been through many printers, but struggled a ton so sold them as I went. I've had printers on the floor in the past, it definitely helps them. I've watched a lot of videos on a variety of machines which is the best way to learn as much as possible. I started Photography 3 years ago which has helped me get better at video work. I took the subjects at school but they didn't really teach anything notable. I've spent most of my time watching videos/theory rather than actual practice, luckily making videos are helping me get a few more hours behind the camera. I'll keep working hard on the videos, I appreciate your support!
Nice work, use a high speed camera to help isolate mechanical bitz. Controller timing is also a factor as is cable management. HS cam will quickly reveal naughty bitz. J cloudfather Chief Engineer.
The motors are the ldo-42sth48-2504ac, and the drivers are directly on the BigTreeTech Kraken mainboard. The driver model is TMC2160 and the mainboard product is labeled as "Kraken." Hope that helps! Cheers
The video is nice but it would be great to have a bit more structure. Like for example showing an upgrade what it's for how it's mounted before going for the next one. It would help a lot for following exactly what's going on.
That's a great point, it's not as explanatory and clear as I would have liked it. That's my fault, I spent too long on the build and rushed the editing a bit. I'll make sure in the future that there's a balance between explanation and sheer visuals, I appreciate your feedback. Cheers!
It's really cool project, but I think you should invest some time to make proper printing profiles for your machines to make them print not only really fast, but also with flawless quality. Good luck!
100%, I can agree with that. My only issue Is I keep switching machines every month or two, and I barely print at all when I'm not working on them. When I get a more consumer (or refined) machine, I'll definitely soak some time into profiles, I hear they make a world of difference. Cheers!
Sorry about that! I'll be more cautious from now on. I also need to pick up some cleaning and maintenance stuff for them, it's on the todo list. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton I like that you aren't afraid to attempt things and put them out there for everyone to see. 🙂 UA-cam can be pretty brutal at times, so I have a lot of respect for you and your efforts. Only advice I can give after watching this video is to try designing your parts where you melt in the threaded inserts from the back side, or to use standard nuts that you drop into place so they sandwich the plastic to prevent them from getting pulled out. Other than that, you are doing great and I can see your progression.
I quite enjoy it, showcasing the honest work and results is free, easy and one of my favourite things about video creation. The brutality (although occasionally harsh) is a good motive to keep improving and pushing harder, I feel it's necessary although not always welcome. That's a great technique, Andrei used it for the final tensioner design and it's shown no signs of degradation. I'll remember it for the future, it's probably the second-best thing compared to sheer metal threads. I'm honoured to have you be there for my journey, I think my next two milestones will be tinkering around with a Voron, before doing a little series on a custom printer. Since a custom machine is a goal for next year, I'm really determined to make it happen. I will spend at least a whole episode designing and making the best decisions I can, it would be a waste to make poor decisions after all this practice and "investing" I plan on doing on it. Cheers!
What is your max flow on this triangle lab hotend for this red pla I guess? And what temp did you used Im curious is it batter than Goliath Im using Btw it's nice to see improvement in your build knowledge, you are doing better For example 3D printed metal rail was obvious for me that it's not going to work, rails have to be super smooth, but everyone is learning whole time Keep up doing better ❤ I would like to see the next video with bigger printer with new Kraken motors or even AC servo motors! Using good ac servo with encoder you can achieve much better accel and speeds, if the step is missing the stepper will boost the motor to keep up
@@peypey_it_is Ik it depends of material, thats why Im asking about his flow on his red PLA filament, to have a reference point Are u saying the flow tested on PLA?
I didn't actually meet the max flow, I didn't do any dedicated testing either sorry, so I can't provide a true number. I printed the PLA at 225C (max 230C) and I don't think I encountered any under extrusion. I hear the goliath is great too, I don't have one so can't reason if one is better than the other. Yeahh I thought the 3D printed rail would work with sheer weight reduction at the cost of quality, but it ultimately was a waste. It did spark engagement though haha. I would love to use some kraken or servo motors sometime! My only reason for not is I want to hold out for a really high end build. I've been talking to my friends and such about building a custom printer for around 4 years now, I hope next year will be that year. Cheers!
I shared it at the end of the video, but it was around ~$1100NZD in upgrades or about $650USD excluding the printer. Of course, a lot of components were sent in so I didn't spend as much.
Not many people notice it, It’s quite fun to use and see what people say. Love that tool. I no longer fly unfortunately. I’ve lost two digital quads in the past with the last one occurring last year, so my confidence is a bit dampened and my gear has all be sold. I would love to get back into it, things were just ramping up too before it all happened. In the next few years I’ll find an excuse to get back into it, I can’t wait. I’ve got an old video on the channel with some of my flights if you’re interested. Maybe I should boot up the sim again sometime… Cheers!
@TommyHoughton Nice man and yeah I feel you. I had a series of parts all fail within quick succession that almost made me leave it entirely but drones are part of who I am and I just can't let it go. You have a great head on your shoulders and I'm excited to see what you can bring to the table. Good luck with everything 🤝
@@lunaticfpv17 I'm sorry to hear about that event, I get how stressful it can be. I find that once we start with a hobby such as drones, we start to see it everywhere. Since I focus a lot on media now, it's often in UA-cam, sometimes in Movies and even the occasional IRL encounter. It's a great reminder of how amazing it is, and how important it can be. I hope do to some videos on it in the future, hopefully combined with a project that can really utilise them. All the best with your flights!
That hotend costs like 3/5 of this whole build haha. Maybe for a high temp build but it’s pretty unlikely unless the budget changes dramatically. Cheers!
Thanks for checking this one out! I always enjoy hearing from you. Thanks for your feedback too, I can agree with that, there was a lot compressed into this one so 30m strikes a good mid-ground. Cheers!
Are you referring to the Ethix Prop tool? It’s available at a majority of “FPV” drone stores such as “GetFPV” or such. Hope that helps! If it’s not the tool you mean, please let me know. Cheers!
Thanks! Monika's bedslinger is on another level, I think she uses 4 motors for the Y axis alone, alongside some other crazy mods. It's an incredible machine. I believe I'm using the same hotend, so I'm at least not limited there. Cheers!
This is too much for me as a new enthusiast but I admire your tweaker intelligence. I'm getting the Bambu A1 with the AMS lite and be done with it. I don't mind maintaining but I am not interested in tinkering and upgrading like I did during my PC building days. Is this a good choice or am I buying the proprietary Apple of 3d printers? lol! Anyone?
I'm sure you'll be super pleased with the combo, I've been tempted several times but always tell myself how many upgrades I could buy with that money instead lol. There are many brands in the 3dp space with proprietary stuff, but I believe Bambu one of the better among them, should be a great investment. I really need a "one and done" type of printer sorted. All the best! Cheers
The flow really isn’t that good on that plasmics hotend. It’s not made to print fast, it’s meant to print engineering materials like nylon gf/cf or peek
I saw the thumbnail a video on that video yesterday, I was too intrigued. The precision of its temp control is crazy, but unfortunately the flow isn't high enough for a build like this. For a dedicated high-temp print though, it would be very suitable. Cheers!
Well there is one thing I find controversial becouse the orbiter V2.5 just dropped and it is crazy good so if you can I would also like to see this printer with that
Woah I had no idea that had released, thanks for mentioning it! I might pick up an upgrade kit or two once a video comes out exploring the performance over the standard 2.0 Cheers!
Why are you printing the benchy on the far edge of the bed? Isn't it due to the complete lack of rigidity of the bed due to the poor design of the Ender 5, which belongs in a landfill)?
Yep, I wanted maximum stability, even with the new struts installed. It's a shame really, the printer would be multiples better if just a bit more time was spent on designing the Z axis. I hope to do the upgrade myself in the future, which should fix all remaining issues with the machine. Cheers!
It's definitely an issue. I printed some support struts which work well enough for a quick fix, but the Hydra or at least dual Z is something I would like to do. Cheers!
Thanks for checking it out, and sorry about the blur! I've been trying to figure it out over the last few days, I will make sure it's much better in the future.
@ I did, the black prints were all Esun Black PLA+ which I was pretty pleased with. It’s performed better than a lot of the cheaper filaments I’ve had in the past.
I apologise for the motion blur seen on this video, it was not a result of incorrect camera settings but it turns out, wrongly selected frame interpolation settings in Davini Resolve. This will be fixed for future videos and I won't make that mistake again. Sorry!
At this point, I do seriously think printers need to start being mounted to concrete floors and walls to reduce vibrations. They just arent heavy enough for the speeds they can now do.
Steel panels go brrr
nah man, nano tape it to the floor. stays still and absorbs vibrations
@@whynotbuildit we can test this. You do that and ill bolt mine to the floor and or wall. should be interesting to see results.
Yeah the stock E5 frame really isn't meant for this, I would love to experiment with all the different options. I think the next time I tinker with a printer this big and fast, it will hopefully be a custom one. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Ender 5 frame is still better than a voron frame lol
Hey im the guy that designed the fan duct that you are using on your ender 3, you want the fan duct to be further up. Yours is maybe 1-2mm gap while printing the first layer but it should be close to 5mm
Hey! Thanks for your concern, I've had it far too low for too long, I've got a new bracket version that holds it higher up but haven't yet printed it. I really like your design and will keep using it, I've been super pleased with how well it works. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton What is the point of the fan ducts?cooldown the laid filement down super fast? is that better for printing?
I don't know, I want learn.
@@theriwenpretty much, if the material stays hot it can lead to warping, curling, and other unwanted defects
Cool, what is the name of your fan duct design? And where can I find it? I thought it looked cool!
What is the name of your fan duct design? And where can I find it? I thought it looked cool!
Seeing a guy at this age being able to do this is maginificent
I'm glad you finally used that Tlab hotend, i've always been curious about it but never seen anyone use it before.
Yeah same here, only person I’ve seen using it was Monika McWuff, but it wasn’t super detailed. It’s surprising as it’s a great performing device and in the same price point as other ones too. Hopefully I can bring some light onto it, hotends are fun to mess around with. I hope to make a custom v2 one similar to the STD6 early next year. Schedule is getting a bit busy now so we’ll see. Cheers!
@TommyHoughton I reckon it'd be perfect for a large format vase machine, just stick a fat 2mm cht in it
@ That would work great! I didn’t end up testing it with a cht at all, it has so much flow that I don’t even think I reached its limits. Huge potential.
@@TommyHoughton BTW marvels filament is okay but if you haven't already tried it wondershops stuff is excellent, especially their petg and petg cf
I haven't actually heard of wondershop, thanks for mentioning it! I'm having a browse right now haha.
Nice build!
The inserts should go into the plastic part from the other side, that way tightening a bolt would pull it into the plastic instead of out.
On video editing: I think the motion blur is a bit too much...
Thanks! Andrei made some new parts made that had back pressed inserts, they were much stronger in the end.
I'm not sure why the footage seems so blurry, I didn't add any extra motion blur and try to always follow the correct shutter speed, I will pay more attention next time and work on it. Thanks for your feedback!
Of course that's true and the best option but these heat insert still need a lot of force to be pulled out.
I had nothing but problems with my ender 5 Pro, but im glad this works for you. im just now getting back into FDM printing via Bambu Labs, and its WONDERFUL
I'm sorry to hear that. My initial experiences weren't perfect, but nothing super frustrating. I continue to hear excellent feedback on Bambu's products, I'm glad it's working for you! I wish I had one of their machines when I started, but I don't know if it would change how I would do things nowadays. Cheers!
Bambu= plug and play (Dumbass Friendly)
Creality = a long learning experience and dive into something you better interested in learning or you're gonna hate it 😂
Same! The poor Ender 5 is sitting next to my X1C. I'm not sure what to do with it. Sometimes I think convert it to a Mercury one.1, but then the amount I'd spend wouldn't be too far off another Bambu...
Bambu labs for the win, it smokes the anycubics and crealities I had over 10 years, ended up selling all my other printers as soon as I got the bambu and then bought a second bambu no regrets, the anycubics cobra 2 I had only lasted 2 prints before needing major tinkering while the bambus have just run for years with no issues.
I'm moved on from Ender prints, but love watching them get over modified
We gonna have an ender 3 speed boat race? I just got a 6:30 benchy on my ender 3 pro. Haven't uploaded yet but yesterday I got uploaded my 8:20 benchy.
I'm not too fussed about about races, but I must say your E3 is really impressive. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton I just posted my 6:30 second benchy. Also I changed my UA-cam name, I was Cody Dixon before. That's my name by the way lol 😆 but yeah....... We should collaborate. I plan to start making more videos on my random tests I do, and random things I like to mod.
Bro, that is INSANE! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for checking it out! I’ll keep working and improving. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton I have tried 3 times to make a comment, but seems I can only reply for some odd reason, I have a version of Danger Klipper I already updated with the Extended CoreXY motion system if you decide to do the Hybrid mod as well
I've had issues in the past with YT flagging/deleting comments, I apologise for that, it's a pain.
That's good to know! I need to have a play around with DK eventually. I'll keep you updated if I do.
The little details in this project are great like the toothed idlers on the side of the belt teeth to reduce vibrations
This is a beautiful build. Thanks for the vid
Being I built a Merc 1 myself (2WD) last year, the thumbnail sparked my interest and all I can say is I watched the video from start to end while being genuinely entertained by this young man’s approach to everything was just really refreshing and just fun to watch! I loved 3d printing but man most videos I watch I’ll just skip through to the info I may need or particular section interest…. Fuck yeah Tommy great work mate….
i love so much that in every field/area there are people who do extreme unnecessary super cool shit
i could watch someone modify, costumize and build stuff all day
It's one of my favourite "genres" to watch when I can. I really appreciate your comment, thanks for watching too! I have loads more crazy things planned for the future. Cheers!
is there ghosting / motion blur in the video? it feels weird unless it’s at a low framerate
I'm not sure why it's worse on this video, I haven't changed any settings from before, at least, any settings that I'm aware of. I will look into it more since it's a big issue. Sorry!
yes there seems to be a lot of ghosting, maybe yt is smoothing idk?
I don't know if it's a yt issue, there's quite a lot of factors. I'll keep looking till something stands out.
It’s not UA-cam. Most likely it is camera settings. Notice how he has a shallow depth of field and how bright the blurry scenes are, this means the shutter speed is slow, letting more light in but slowing down the fps. It is always ideal to have double the shutter speed of the intended fps, so 24fps you’d want 1/48 minimum.
@@labemolon5739 I always use 1/50 as I shoot at 24fps, so I'm hoping that's not the case. I will try shooting slightly higher at 1/60 from now now and seeing if it's more pleasing. I couldn't find a node in my power grade that could have affected motion blur, so I'm still confused. Could it have something do with the IBIS of my camera?
love the new videography work!
I appreciate that! I tried a few new things this time, but also left some stuff out. I look forward to seeing how it's all received. Cheers!
Awesome video Tommy! Love your content so much.
Currently on my way to build a E3NG and T250 coming up :)
Your videos always hype me up 🔥
Thanks
Love from Switzerland
Thank you for watching! I really appreciate those kind words :)
Good luck with your builds! Leave a comment sometime with an update, I'd love to hear.
Cheers!
Just a reminder to be a bit safer around AC power. Lead by example and protect live wires.
I appreciate the reminder and concern. I'm not proud of what I displayed in the video and will be taking some time to properly sort it out with connectors, frame grounding and protective coverings. Cheers
Pro tip with heat press inserts (I do combat robotics so I use this strat to make sure they don’t fill apart during my heavy hits) is to put the heat set inserts in from the otherwise. Leave plenty of clearance for your bolts, but that way it pulls further into the plastic if anything. Especially with high infill that solution is usually pretty bulletproof
That's a great tip! I will try that for future parts since I'm starting to use inserts more and more.
Wow. Very fast. Can't wait for the VORON project!
Thanks! I'm stoked for it, hopefully I can get a kit provided so I can sink more money into it myself haha. Cheers!
The video is finally here! Great video, and the printer looks amazing. (Btw for filament I would highly recommend Elegoo rapid PLA)
Sorry for the delay! I hope it was worth the wait :D Cheers!
I was literally wondering when this video would come when I was rewatching the ender 3 and 5 videos yesterday
Apologies for the delay! Every day was counting now so I did a push to get it done. I appreciate your patience, thanks for watching the other ones again too! I rewatched them too actually, it was a while since I last saw them. Hope this one was worth the wait. Cheers!
1:07 With the power of friendship ahh intro
Very professional finish!
Heavily underrated you deserve way more subscribers keep it up :)
I appreciate the support! I will keep trying to improve. Cheers!
Love the longer videos, keep them going 👏
I appreciate the feedback! I'll keep that in mind. Cheers!
HELL YEAH! SPEEEEEEEEED good video. Keep it up!
To ensure squareness do opposite corners first for the frame. The same concept of tightening lugnuts apply to the frame being built. Get a square(triangle shaped) to ensure a 90° corner
I plan on building a custom frame for a machine later next year, I'll get some of those square's and make sure I can do the best I can. Thanks for the advice! Cheers
@TommyHoughton if you really care about accuracy you can get a couple from home depot different sizes. It's called a speed square and is very useful
Great to know, I'll look into a few of them and see which ones I like. They'll be great to have for the future too.
0:42 love that hand, kinda cute haha
Very nice. If you can drill down the quality, I'm doing one. You obviously know, mounting the motors on the bottom are your best bet. Run shafts to the top to keep it light weight. Keep us updated on the progress... Good job.
I think the main bottleneck was the lack of belt tension, I've had some great prints so far on this machine but I keep struggling with the belts. The Z axis could do with some improvements too, but the support struts helped a lot. Since Mercury 1.1 has top mounted motors, I went with those, but in the future I plan on designing a machine with the motors inside the frame, I just prefer how much cleaner it is, but I'm sure there's other benefits too. Running shafts would actually look so cool, I might look into that for a high temp build or such. Thank you for your feedback and insight! Cheers
Who's the helper behind your chair? Sneaky...sneaky!
Moving on Tommy, very nice video
Thank you Boothy! I feel this was a good next step. I hope to advance to a Voron next year, and then a custom machine after that. There's still quite a few flaws with this build, but I've had excellent feedback so far, and look forward to improving. Cheers!
Awesome work man!
I appreciate your support 🙏
The is top tier content! Im watching all of this!
I really appreciate that, thank you!
So you basically built a vzbot out of an ender 5
no, its a AWD mod for Mercury one by ZeroG
@@Bradford1040 No, its a vzbot with extra steps. Where do you think the mod came from.
Mercury Zero G Not a vz... Vz is Based on a tronxy x5sa
Mercury is Based on a ender5
@@sammaelst7971 Its a mercury G and a VZbot wearing a trenchcoat pretending to be a real printer
Yeah a VzBot is a bid different 😂
Awesome video! Very nice videography, too. Can I make a few suggestions?
1) Someone else mentioned it, but there's an incredible amount of motion blur (?) in the video. We're not all sensitive to it, but it made me a bit sick. Just FYI!
2) I'm sure it's fine, but crimping over a crimp may lead to reliability issues down the line. Just cut the original crimp, strip the wire a tiny bit and crimp unto that.
3) I think the machine is held back by calibration issues; looking at the bottom of the benchy, it looks to me like the z offset is incorrect, by quite a bit. That could account for some of the layer inconsistencies. And what you've said is probably correct; belt tension is a bit off.
3b) Maybe you could try manual ringing compensation in Klipper? Doesn't require any additional hardware.
3c) I don't know for sure, but the Pi Zero may be an issue. I know that underpowered SBC can cause layer shifting and other weird issues. As commands are sent from the Pi, any hiccups will be felt in the final result.
Again, amazing job!
Thanks! Of course, feedback is the best way for me to improve.
I'm really not sure what happened with the motion blur, I'm really sorry it was affecting, I will be more careful from now on.
I had a hunch it wasn't the best decision to do, thanks for explaining it, I'll fix those when I can.
Yep, that's correct, I had it set a bit too high for that run, unfortunately didn't have enough filament to go again - I was a bit annoyed I couldn't tension the belts any more, but that's alright. I used a BTT S2DW accelerometer for input shaping, I forgot to share the graphs and values, annoyingly I have them on my desktop ready...
The Pi zero 2w doesn't have enough performance for these numbers, I had some concerns shared before the build. I'd like to upgrade it sometime, but I don't think I will as I'll just run this machine at lower speeds until then.
Thank you for taking the time write this and explaining! I really appreciate it and will apply it all the best I can. Cheers!
Great job, well done Kiwi :)
Thanks! :D
Whats the back brace thing on the back of the printer? It appears to keep the cables away from the belts in the back. Could you share the file for that?
That's correct, it's to keep the cables away. It was a prototype I roughly designed, I no longer have the file sorry. It should be straight forward to replicate in TinkerCAD or another similar program, as it's just an extruded rectangle and some mounting holes. Cheers!
Seeing you upgrade these machines inpired me to see how fast i could make my stock ender 3, turns out, with the right firmware tweaks and some jankification, almost af fast an the A1 from bambo! Can't wait to see more, totaly insane build from ya!
That's awesome! I'm glad to hear it's performing well. I'll keep it up, I can't wait to do more crazy projects like this. Cheers!
nice benchy shabed object at the end. be careful crimping onto conectors like that its quite posible you start a fire with all that vibration as there desingned to grip into the insulation and could shake loose off the old crimps causing some high resistance. maybe a voron in the future?
Thanks! I've had concerns be brought up regarding the double crimping, I won't be doing it again and will be redoing them shortly. I appreciate the detailed explanation of it! It's the best way for me to understand and improve. A voron is the next big project on the todo list, (eta february??) and then a custom printer after that. Cheers!
You should crimp those new connectors onto wire, and not onto another connector
I've had a few comments mentioning and explaining that. I won't be doing it again. Thanks for checking this one out too! Cheers!
Amazing work! The way it was bouncing around, I feel like it would need to be bolted to a heavy table to get an accurate assessment of quality at high speeds. The movement definitely affected the results.
Thanks! Yeah the frame is certainly a bottleneck, as is the rather floppy z axis. I'll see what I can do in the future. Cheers!
What is the metal bar call? Seen alot but don't know its name.
On the X Axis? It's called an XBeam, sometimes called an "ultralight" or "superlight" X beam or such. Hope that helps! Cheers
I looked at the strength calculations of the profiles that are used for this frame and they have a very low rigidity, this is a super flimsy frame for such a speed. The rigidity will increase several times if you simply sheathe the frame with plywood sheets.
Also, even if a more rigid frame is installed, it would be nice to install an accelerometer with firmware that allows you to eliminate resonances, although perhaps it is already installed and I heard something in the video.
Plywood sheets is actually a great idea, I jumped straight into researching metal (for a different machine) but it would cost a ton, plywood would be far more economical. I did use an accelerometer in this project, but forgot to include the footage and graphs. Ironically I put some extra effort into documenting it. I'll copy and paste the values I got. "My recommended shaper was MZV at 62.6Hz at 11500mm/s2 for Y, and MZV again at 72.4Hz at 15400mm/s2 for X. Both graphs have a defined peak, but then another less defined peak on the following side of them, possibly from loose components somewhere? Could be a couple of reasons."
Cheers!
I don't know what the second peak of the accelerometer sensor is connected with, it could be a harmonic from the main frequency, and instead of plywood it is better to use chipboard, it is a more even material and stable to changes in humidity, and if the issue of the machine's weight is not in the first place, then many elements will be good. And I am also really looking forward to the moment when you come to the fact that instead of a servo drive you will put powerful BLDC motors with a gearbox and encoder instead of steppers, then a fairly small printer can have 50 horsepower :)@@TommyHoughton
What settings are you using for the benchys? Are you following the speed benchy rules?
I've added the full cuts of the benchys in the description. Yes, following the set rules.
The "quality" one was:
400mm/s @50k Accell.
250mm/s for outerwalls.
The speed one was:
800mm/s @ 100K (then 110K halfway through)
65 Square-Corner Velocity and 0 Min-Cruise-Ratio
Cheers!
Question on the double shears can you post the link and why didn’t it work?
The link for the double shear parts for the CoreXY conversion are on Andrei's github which is in the description, the decoupler link is this: www.printables.com/model/430168-voron-trident-stepper-decoupler/files
It didn't work as my motor shafts weren't long enough for the double shear in Andrei's parts, and the decoupling system I wanted to use was not compatible with Andrei's parts so ultimately I couldn't use either. Hope that helps. Cheers!
I love the longer video style.
I appreciate the feedback! I’ll try and stick to that timeframe and upping the quality when I can. Cheers!
Awesome vid. Love the editing style, not to flashy (eg Mr beast style editing) but also not boring
Thank you! I like to think it's a good mid ground, I will continue to refine it. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton all good man. Keep up the good work. Any idea what the ghosting came from?
@ Honestly I have no idea, there’s a bunch of factors and I don’t know which one would be the most likely. I will keep looking into it until I get a solution. Otherwise I can just increase the shutter speed a little bit and remove more blur just in case for next time.
@@TommyHoughton yea I would assume it’s something to do with the camera settings or UA-cam compression
Wow, very cool project. My Ender 5 is looking at me daily waiting to be fixed.
Thanks for checking this one out! I know the feeling with broken printers on the todo list... Hope the repair goes well when you get to it! Sometimes a push of "I'll just do 5 minutes of repairing" is all that's needed to get into the zone and knocking it all out. All the best! Cheers
Where do you get all of your screws, nuts, bearings, washers, etc?
I near exclusively use AliExpress, I barely order from anywhere else anymore. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughtonAre there like kits that you get because I can see that there are prepackaged screws in the bags you see in professional products
There's quite a variety, I sometime buy the little plastic containers with sorted amounts, but it's easy to buy bags of components as well. Different stores offer different options.
Back when I worked on cars for fun, we used to joke that improving a car might involve jacking up the radiator cap and driving a new car underneath it. I wonder why that comes to mind? ;-)
bro what is ur shutter speed or fps the ghosting is kind of too much
Sorry for the blur! It's been a highly brought up issue and I'm working hard on trying to figure it out. It won't be the fps/ss issue as I shot 24fps at 1/50s, but I'm wondering if it's a setting I ticked in editing. Regardless, I will sort it out for next time. Sorry again!
Hi there, are you using two 24v -350 in series or parallel or 48V psu...!?
Hi, I'm using a dedicated 48V power supply for the motors. Cheers!
I've never been a fan of the normal way of doing heat inserts, having worked on laptops for decades I have seen my share of them pull out. What should be done is the screw come through the other way and that would pull the insert into the object it is inserted into, instead of the force pulling it out.
Having that happen on laptops would be far worse than printed parts, I can bet that's frustrating when it happens. That "reverse" method is far superior, I designed a tensioner in my previous video following it, and it's performed so much better than any of the ones in this video. When I need to design parts in the future, I'll be doing that too. Cheers!
Well, slower speed for wall printing gives a good result. Then print the infill with hyperspeed since it was hidden. I just don't know how rigid it will be compared to normal speed infill.
It's a good technique, I don't remember what exact settings I used for the quality run, but I did just that. I think 250mm/s on the outer walls and either 600 or higher on the rest. I also don't know the effects it has on strength though. Cheers!
where did you get the CPAP motor and driver from?
The kit was from BigTreeTech.
biqu.equipment/products/universal-turbo-kit?_pos=1&_sid=ca9ae9dc7&_ss=r&variant=41311385157730
Cheers!
This is amazing but even more amazing is that the record of sub two minute is still held by an
ender 3
I know right! I still watch Monika's video occasionally as a reminder. I don't think I'll be getting much closer to her record any time soon. Ludicrous machine. Cheers!
Great work!
Thanks!
use cnc kitchens heat seat inserts for more strength
DAMN this is impressive. you earned a sub
Thanks! I hope to keep doing stuff like this in the future. Cheers!
Great video!
Thanks for checking it out! Cheers
Nice job! It looks like another Voron baby 😃
Thanks! A Voron is the next big thing on the todo list. Cheers!
Im just about to be getting into printing and this video blew my mind. A 3min benchy is insane wtf ive been watching reviews of units to see which first printer im going to get and i swear ive seen a benchy that turned out worse or just as bad as that but it took 5 times longer to print.
Im debating between the solvo v6 ace the qidi q1 pro and a few others
I was pretty astounded with the numbers, but with the sheer amount of performance based components, I was expecting for something around that (although the quality was unpredicted.) Other machines are albeit slower, but much more reinforced compared to this. I kinda just took "big number" components and bolted them to this machine, despite the frame still being as weak as it was at stock. I haven't research the SV06 Ace, but I've heard good things about it, the Q1 Pro and the Creality E3 V3 SE, but it depends on budget, printing requirements and preference. Not to sound generic, but even without experience I'd look into an A1/A1Mini as an entry bedslinger, or perhaps something from Qidi or Flashforge for a mid range enclosed machine (such as the 5M from flashforge or the Q1 pro as you mentioned.) The best thing to do is research an absolute ton of machines and tick of your requirements until one, two or three machines remain. E.G enclosure for high temp materials. Eventually a make or break factor will present itself. Cheers!
I'm kind of surprised by the result of the 9 minute quality print.
As far as I can tell, my Ender 3 v2 gets pretty similar quality, so nothing special to write about, but it takes around 35 minutes to do that!
I was too, I think with some more rigidity on the components and a higher belt tension, I could iron out the little issues with it.
I love the E3V2, I had one in the past and it printed nicely and reliably. Happy printing! Cheers
love the video. ender 5pro was my first printer
I'm really glad to hear that. It's a neat machine for sure, I like the design despite its flaws. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton Wish I knew what I was doing tho. How long have u been a pro at printing? I have to learn so much more, you're video was so interesting. I have my printer on the floor helps with not getting any vibrations with not having any platform between the printer and Ground,
I hope your videos some days has multi million views. it deserves it
U must have a film or videography background no?
@@TommyHoughton I also think every single printer should be in a enclosure, helps with everything and removes variables
@ Definitely, I can agree with that.
@@theriwen Pro is a heavy overstatement, I barely know what I'm doing half the time. I started in 2019 and have been through many printers, but struggled a ton so sold them as I went. I've had printers on the floor in the past, it definitely helps them. I've watched a lot of videos on a variety of machines which is the best way to learn as much as possible. I started Photography 3 years ago which has helped me get better at video work. I took the subjects at school but they didn't really teach anything notable. I've spent most of my time watching videos/theory rather than actual practice, luckily making videos are helping me get a few more hours behind the camera. I'll keep working hard on the videos, I appreciate your support!
Nice work, use a high speed camera to help isolate mechanical bitz. Controller timing is also a factor as is cable management. HS cam will quickly reveal naughty bitz. J cloudfather Chief Engineer.
have been waiting for this video for a while🎉🎉
Sorry for the delay! I hope it was worth the wait. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton definitely worth the wait!
I'm really glad to hear that, thanks for your feedback :)
Can you tell me the motor and driver you use here?
The motors are the ldo-42sth48-2504ac, and the drivers are directly on the BigTreeTech Kraken mainboard. The driver model is TMC2160 and the mainboard product is labeled as "Kraken." Hope that helps! Cheers
@TommyHoughton Thank you
The video is nice but it would be great to have a bit more structure. Like for example showing an upgrade what it's for how it's mounted before going for the next one. It would help a lot for following exactly what's going on.
That's a great point, it's not as explanatory and clear as I would have liked it. That's my fault, I spent too long on the build and rushed the editing a bit. I'll make sure in the future that there's a balance between explanation and sheer visuals, I appreciate your feedback. Cheers!
Amazing quality for that speed
How much did it cost😭 I want to build it
I have a little segment at the end of the video with some details, but all parts were roughly 1100NZD or 650USD excluding the machine. Cheers!
Omg I died internally as I saw how you crimped that big motor connectors D: FIX EM!! xD
Will do! I've had a few explanations of why it's not smart, I'll be sorting it asap. Cheers!
It's really cool project, but I think you should invest some time to make proper printing profiles for your machines to make them print not only really fast, but also with flawless quality. Good luck!
100%, I can agree with that. My only issue Is I keep switching machines every month or two, and I barely print at all when I'm not working on them. When I get a more consumer (or refined) machine, I'll definitely soak some time into profiles, I hear they make a world of difference. Cheers!
absurdly cool
6:23 Bare hands on the linear rail... That physically HURT me 😂😂😂
If you don't know, linear rails rust super easy if you put hand salts on them.
Sorry about that! I'll be more cautious from now on. I also need to pick up some cleaning and maintenance stuff for them, it's on the todo list. Cheers!
@TommyHoughton some sae 30 non detergent oil is what I have used to wipe clean my rails for years, and I touch them often.
Bro is evolving.
hopefully not backwards 😅
I'll keep it up. I always appreciate you checking these out and commenting, thanks!
@@TommyHoughton I like that you aren't afraid to attempt things and put them out there for everyone to see. 🙂 UA-cam can be pretty brutal at times, so I have a lot of respect for you and your efforts. Only advice I can give after watching this video is to try designing your parts where you melt in the threaded inserts from the back side, or to use standard nuts that you drop into place so they sandwich the plastic to prevent them from getting pulled out. Other than that, you are doing great and I can see your progression.
I quite enjoy it, showcasing the honest work and results is free, easy and one of my favourite things about video creation. The brutality (although occasionally harsh) is a good motive to keep improving and pushing harder, I feel it's necessary although not always welcome. That's a great technique, Andrei used it for the final tensioner design and it's shown no signs of degradation. I'll remember it for the future, it's probably the second-best thing compared to sheer metal threads. I'm honoured to have you be there for my journey, I think my next two milestones will be tinkering around with a Voron, before doing a little series on a custom printer. Since a custom machine is a goal for next year, I'm really determined to make it happen. I will spend at least a whole episode designing and making the best decisions I can, it would be a waste to make poor decisions after all this practice and "investing" I plan on doing on it. Cheers!
Wow. This is crazy
What is your max flow on this triangle lab hotend for this red pla I guess? And what temp did you used
Im curious is it batter than Goliath Im using
Btw it's nice to see improvement in your build knowledge, you are doing better
For example 3D printed metal rail was obvious for me that it's not going to work, rails have to be super smooth, but everyone is learning whole time
Keep up doing better ❤
I would like to see the next video with bigger printer with new Kraken motors or even AC servo motors!
Using good ac servo with encoder you can achieve much better accel and speeds, if the step is missing the stepper will boost the motor to keep up
They claim 95mm³ but it depends on material and print temp. It does 60mm³ well.
@@peypey_it_is Ik it depends of material, thats why Im asking about his flow on his red PLA filament, to have a reference point
Are u saying the flow tested on PLA?
@@ILIKE3DPRINTERS i get good 60mm³ with pla+
I didn't actually meet the max flow, I didn't do any dedicated testing either sorry, so I can't provide a true number. I printed the PLA at 225C (max 230C) and I don't think I encountered any under extrusion. I hear the goliath is great too, I don't have one so can't reason if one is better than the other. Yeahh I thought the 3D printed rail would work with sheer weight reduction at the cost of quality, but it ultimately was a waste. It did spark engagement though haha. I would love to use some kraken or servo motors sometime! My only reason for not is I want to hold out for a really high end build. I've been talking to my friends and such about building a custom printer for around 4 years now, I hope next year will be that year. Cheers!
At this point this is just drag racing printers
The question no one wants to sdmit the answer of though; how much money have you put into that ender 5 pro?
I shared it at the end of the video, but it was around ~$1100NZD in upgrades or about $650USD excluding the printer. Of course, a lot of components were sent in so I didn't spend as much.
I notice your hex driver is Ethix brand... do you participate in fpv drones as well??
Not many people notice it, It’s quite fun to use and see what people say. Love that tool. I no longer fly unfortunately. I’ve lost two digital quads in the past with the last one occurring last year, so my confidence is a bit dampened and my gear has all be sold. I would love to get back into it, things were just ramping up too before it all happened. In the next few years I’ll find an excuse to get back into it, I can’t wait. I’ve got an old video on the channel with some of my flights if you’re interested. Maybe I should boot up the sim again sometime… Cheers!
@TommyHoughton Nice man and yeah I feel you. I had a series of parts all fail within quick succession that almost made me leave it entirely but drones are part of who I am and I just can't let it go. You have a great head on your shoulders and I'm excited to see what you can bring to the table. Good luck with everything 🤝
@@lunaticfpv17 I'm sorry to hear about that event, I get how stressful it can be. I find that once we start with a hobby such as drones, we start to see it everywhere. Since I focus a lot on media now, it's often in UA-cam, sometimes in Movies and even the occasional IRL encounter. It's a great reminder of how amazing it is, and how important it can be. I hope do to some videos on it in the future, hopefully combined with a project that can really utilise them. All the best with your flights!
You have to put the inductive hotend in this ender 5 the Ino trident!
That hotend costs like 3/5 of this whole build haha. Maybe for a high temp build but it’s pretty unlikely unless the budget changes dramatically. Cheers!
this is what i expect from my stock ender 3 v2
totally awesome .btw i think 30 minutes is the right length for this kind of video.
Thanks for checking this one out! I always enjoy hearing from you. Thanks for your feedback too, I can agree with that, there was a lot compressed into this one so 30m strikes a good mid-ground. Cheers!
what is this little 4 way tool? Where did you get it?
Are you referring to the Ethix Prop tool? It’s available at a majority of “FPV” drone stores such as “GetFPV” or such. Hope that helps! If it’s not the tool you mean, please let me know. Cheers!
Nice work - but why did I see an Ender 3 bed slinging the benchy in only 2 minutes?
Thanks! Monika's bedslinger is on another level, I think she uses 4 motors for the Y axis alone, alongside some other crazy mods. It's an incredible machine. I believe I'm using the same hotend, so I'm at least not limited there. Cheers!
I need the front mount stls! I've been working on awd my merc one.1
Nevermind just had to wait till the end of the video . . .
Love it.
This is too much for me as a new enthusiast but I admire your tweaker intelligence. I'm getting the Bambu A1 with the AMS lite and be done with it. I don't mind maintaining but I am not interested in tinkering and upgrading like I did during my PC building days. Is this a good choice or am I buying the proprietary Apple of 3d printers? lol! Anyone?
I'm sure you'll be super pleased with the combo, I've been tempted several times but always tell myself how many upgrades I could buy with that money instead lol. There are many brands in the 3dp space with proprietary stuff, but I believe Bambu one of the better among them, should be a great investment. I really need a "one and done" type of printer sorted. All the best! Cheers
a company came out with a induction hotend, i think it would go hard on this build. however it is more than some printer these days.
The flow really isn’t that good on that plasmics hotend. It’s not made to print fast, it’s meant to print engineering materials like nylon gf/cf or peek
I saw the thumbnail a video on that video yesterday, I was too intrigued. The precision of its temp control is crazy, but unfortunately the flow isn't high enough for a build like this. For a dedicated high-temp print though, it would be very suitable. Cheers!
@ I’m tempted to buy a $15 induction heater and try to make my own. Not sure about the nozzle but something could be custom machined
@@bobtheblob2770 That would be an excellent project, I'd love to hear how it goes if you do.
Well there is one thing I find controversial becouse the orbiter V2.5 just dropped and it is crazy good so if you can I would also like to see this printer with that
Woah I had no idea that had released, thanks for mentioning it! I might pick up an upgrade kit or two once a video comes out exploring the performance over the standard 2.0 Cheers!
Those t nuts for the extrusion/profile are called insersion nuts.
Thanks for that! I’ll now know for next time.
Awesome!
Thanks for checking this one out!
It's always nice to see a comment from you 😄
Cheers!
Why are you printing the benchy on the far edge of the bed? Isn't it due to the complete lack of rigidity of the bed due to the poor design of the Ender 5, which belongs in a landfill)?
Yep, I wanted maximum stability, even with the new struts installed. It's a shame really, the printer would be multiples better if just a bit more time was spent on designing the Z axis. I hope to do the upgrade myself in the future, which should fix all remaining issues with the machine. Cheers!
This has NOTHING to do with the term "Ender" anymore 😂 Nice build!
The problem with the Ender 5 is the bed wobble. Therefore the Hydra mod exist for the mercury one
It's definitely an issue. I printed some support struts which work well enough for a quick fix, but the Hydra or at least dual Z is something I would like to do. Cheers!
Hydra isn't cheap, but it is worth every penny.
I love the project, but please sort out the motion blur and focus
Thanks for checking it out, and sorry about the blur! I've been trying to figure it out over the last few days, I will make sure it's much better in the future.
@@TommyHoughton No problem! i love the project so far! i think one of the fastest benchies i've seen
which filament ????
Jamg-He High Speed PLA+
@@TommyHoughton did you try print same file with regular filament brands like esun,creality ?
@ I did, the black prints were all Esun Black PLA+ which I was pretty pleased with. It’s performed better than a lot of the cheaper filaments I’ve had in the past.
@@TommyHoughton Thank you Tommy 😃
@ You’re very welcome 😄
as an owner to a ender 5 pro, now I know how high it can fly
Dude made a timelapse of a benchy print without a timelapse, scary stuff! Id keep 5m distance behind an impact protection shield xD
Hm ist this still an ender?
Technically not. Cheers!