My friend....use a jig saw cut some thin scrap wood . What ever shape you want. You can now hold or screw that shape to your work place. Then use your plasma cutter around that shape . You will make perfect cuts every time
From now on our program will be numbered by "Episodes" and not "Weeks" anymore. We simply continue the numbers though, so today's show is called "Episode 33" (instead of "Week 33"). Thanks for your support, enjoy the video!
The format should be S00E00 which would be the series or season number and episode number. This is if you wish to conform to the rest of the whole world that is.
Für den Plasmaschneider nimm dir aufjedenfall immer eine Schablone, geht auch aus Holz, dann bekommst du auch sauberer Schnitte hin. Feier deine Videos sehr ✌🏻👌🏼
On ether side of your cutter are two wheels rotate your cutter so than the wheels roll, not scrap along the material you are cutting and remember to pull the cutter, don’t try to guide it around the circle. There you go plasma cutter 101. I enjoy your channel and wish I could do the same, I hope you the best with the boat. Wish you did more content because I really enjoy watching.
I’m so glad that there are no regulations about noises in the U.K. you can mower your lawn, you can get your angle grinder out on a Sunday morning and no neighbour will ever complain… so easy going here in Scotland 🏴
Ich habe jetzt jede Folge von euch angeschaut. Großer Respekt vor dem was ihr da leistet. Jeder hätte schon 100 mal die Klamotten an die seite geworfen. Ihr zieht das durch. Finde ich echt klasse. Sicherlich könnte man manches besser machen. Es ist aber auch immer eine Frage der zeit und des Budgets. Gerade diese Videos von nicht Profis sind sehr spannend weil näher an der Wirklichkeit. Ich drücke euch die Daumen das ihr dies Projekt fertig bekommt. Ihr seid ja schon auf einem super Weg. 👍👍👍 Grüße Rainer
I owned and extensively modified a 13-meter sea-going catamaran for over 20 years. Having read the comments below I agree with a lot that has been said. I would never have anything petrol-driven inside of a boat. Not even keep petrol inside. Anything petrol should be stored outside above sea level in a self-draining locker. In my opinion, if you need a generator, it must be a water-cooled marine diesel, fitted to steelwork with rubber mounts. The exhaust could go through the deckhead, but a water-cooled exhaust is much quieter and will upset a lot fewer fellow sailors.
Hummm, so many years spent offshore fishing, and never once did I have the main engine, nor the fuel tanks, outside of the boat. And seriously, the main above the waterline?
@@bartjohnson8139, I wasn't thinking of petrol main engines, as I have rarely come across them, except my nephew's jet boat. With bilge fans and great care, I guess they can be kept safe. I used a petrol generator and had small outboards for the dingy, maintaining the above ware-line and self-draining lockers. This is easy on a catamaran where a large part of the boat has space to water level.
I love your channel. Well done. However, I have to agree with all those who've said this dry exhaust so close to the waterline is dangerous. Also the non marine generator in an enclosed space is dangerous. I would recommend highly that you keep your gen and exhaust external and rig a vented locker with sound absorption for it. What you've set up will be dangerous and would certainly fail a marine survey. I say this with the upmost support for you and your hard work.
Exactly what I was thinking. He's likely to get water going back into the generator like that. And from past experience an air cooled motor will need far more air flow in that small engine room.
Your projects are coming along nicely. Thanks for the updates. Keep in mind the definition of "boat". It truly is a hole in the water into which you pour copious amounts of money. Enjoy your work.
Get some dark sun glasses or a pare of cutting glasses with #5 lenses. Because your generator doesn't make enough power to run your compressor and plasma cutter. Take a piece of scrap sheet metal tack weld it over the hole then you will be able to use a hole saw. The scrap piece will allow your drill bit to keep your hole saw straight. Buy a good set of hole saws they are a good investment. and can be used on everything Keep up the good work
G'day Crew,, As per usual, you've given us all another great episode , I enjoyed every minute . You waved that plasma cutter round like a magic wand, or the light sabor that left Luke one handed . Im almost sure i could hear you under that welding mask saying : " Im your father (Captain) now burn " Jokes aside ,, who knew there were so many "cuff rate" plasma cutting experts hiding in the ranks of river boat vlogs . Having said that ,,on final install of the generator ,be absolutely sure to get the equilibrium of FLUX CAPACITOR correct . Thanks for taking the time to share it with the faithfull, really enjoyed it . Respect from Down Under
Man - Few time I look to your videos and deeply appreciated them. The wood timbers you're using must be pre-impragnated of you shuld hardly vannish them before final installation or ... You'll have to redo your job in 1/2 years ! Be strong and efficient - Loving what you do ;-))
Dude, stop using a plasma cutter for such thin materials, like 3mm sheet, far better to by some metal whole saws and use a drill and cooling oil and a regular drill ! Yes the hull would have been had ward work but you could have still done it given time and a lot tidier too. Still keep up the good work, really interesting and entertaining. Best of luck from the UK.
My thoughts exactly! If you have the right type of arbor, you can use 2 hole saws at once. One that fits the inside of the existing hole, and a second that enlarges the hole to the size you want.
Damn you with not installing the generator!!!! Lololol!!! I wanted to see that part!!! Guess I'll just have to wait till next week!!!.... This is like the only channel I wait to update! Lol
I have the same boat, so I find what you have to offer is to help me also with my refit The Armacell is a great tip and I will also adopt this method You also helped me with the stud work ideas. Though I might treat the timber and use stainless screws lol. Please keep up the good work and will look forward to every edition Ned
brilliant work, may i suggest for work on the edge of the boat, you can use a wooden pallet with a rope in each corner hanging from the boats hand rails to hold it in place, try looking for a bowsons chair in google and trying a larger flatter version, for the hole work you need to find a die grinder and use that to trim the inside holes
You will my friends great vids and I think she will really look the part when you have finished I own a 35mtr motor yacht and love to see you guy's making the best of what you have or can afford and not for one second do I think that I am more fortunate than you, you through your own efforts are making your dreams come true, I just paid cash, what gratification is there in that. God bless you.
you need a water trap on that exaust if you get beam side waves you will flood your exaust plus if you go salt water you need stainless steel to keep it all from rusting out. P.S get rid of that old weld hood and get a new auto dim you can set the darkness, and go with the hole saws
Great videos. You should move the pull start on the generator 180 degrees. This way if the batteries go out or the electric start fails you can still pull start the geni. It’s easy just unbolt turn and reboot.
Remember the old adages..... Boat means " Bust out another thousand" and " A boat is a hole in the water that you throw money in to" Definitely a labor of love though
superb report! bravo, I see the demonstration of the metal cutter from Lidl ... !! I also buy tools in France from them, it's the good Parkside brand, and not expensive ... !! Bravo for all this work and the acrobatic installation of the exhaust pipe ... !! it is always a very neat job ... !!
Use a hole cutter much neater because you already have a hole cut the size hole in a piece of wood put the wood over the hole that's already in the hull hold the wood put hole saw in the wood which will be the guide simples😎
In my opinion, it might have been better to spray a liquid foam 32 mm on all of the inside of all the Hull to insulate because in the winter when it's freezing this would help protect and keep the heat within the boat. By only insulating above the floor this will not insulate the hull and below the floor will be freezing in winter. When using the plasma metal cutter you should a jig to get an even cut.
You NEED to invest in an auto darkening helmet. When I use my plasma cutter I use the helmet on grind mode and it’s dark enough not to hurt your eyes. You definitely need both hands free.
Oh man, it's gonna get so hot in that engine room. You'll be amazed at the amount of heat this small single cylinder generator is gonna put out, much more than your main engine! You need a water cooled unit that spin at 1800. It's gonna be much quieter and way easier to manage the heat.
Shade 5 goggles and loads of air , you can use wood cut just bigger than the hole or as an any shape you like fence to run along steady (single use). Clamped or big magnets.
I’ve been paying close attention to your work video after video. Your work is amazing! I’m a restoration guy my hobby for many years. Keep up the good work. I’m Benj watching your episodes. I’m loving them very much.
Although I have a plasma cutter, I don’t try to run it freehand for circles. For those I will tack weld a piece of scrap metal over the existing hole (in your circumstance) and proceed to use a normal hole cutter for steel, then I will grind off the tack welds that held the scrap steel in place to guide the hole cutter. There are jigs you can buy, but in your case they won’t do any good for a plasma cutter that you can’t effectively use because of a lack of power.
My fiancé and I have discussed getting a house boat to renovate and your channel has been awesome. I realize the boats are different but you still are giving us a clear idea what would be involved so we can look at the project realistically. Thanks and we look forward to more!
On a way strong wave can hit and damage your muffler. In my boat for this purpose installed ball valve to lock this hole in bad weather while on a move.
Put a screw in your material so your cut line is hanging over the edge of a bench. Hard mount the plasma cutter to something so it sits on the cut line. Rotate the metal and perfect circle every time.
Dude I comend you on your work with what you have and skill but some of the work your doing makes me wish I had the time and money to make a trip there to help you out! Keep at it!👍
You need to throw that welding helmet over the side into the water, and then set it on fire. Buy a good welding helmet, and a set of cutting goggles for the plasma. You can ever use very dark sunglasses. This will allow you to use TWO hands to work....
@@dnomyarnostaw im a licenced plumber and pipe welder, i have th perfect one. a kemppi self darkening mask with an air system in the back when ventilation is unawalible:P
The cuts you made in the exhaust pipe for clamping? It looks like some of those cuts extend beyond the interior pipe, meaning there's a space where CO2 (Kohlendioxid?) could leak out into your engine room. I'd wrap those a couple of times in muffler (foil) tape before you clamp them down and definitely update your CO2/Smoke Alarms ASAP.
you can buy a round stone attachment that screws onto the grinder to make the hole look better at any welding supply store, you might be better getting an oxy/acetylating torch kit since you're limited on power or compressed air. I have used 5 green lenses or you can find a cheap auto-darkening lens that adjusts shades 5-10,12 at a big box home depot or lowes type stores that are good for hobby welders
Let me add yet another comment about your "adapter" where you cut slots in the muffler pipe so you could clamp it down onto the smaller diameter tail pipe. Seriously, that never works. You will never get that joint to be gas tight unless you weld it up. CO poisoning will ruin your day.
Plasma cutters are unforgiving about marginal air supply. There are two kinds of torches also, the contact or drag tip and the arc style needing a standoff distance. The tip never actually touches the metal. Using them incorrectly will burn up consumables very quickly indeed. The electrodes need to match the cup. The lack of a water filtration system on your air will also compound the problem. Keep an eye on the torch consumables as you will have to change them often with damp air and restricted flow. At a minimum I would suggest (other than a bigger compressor) adding an additional air tank in line so you could do a small cut without the air starving. Then just work within the limits of your set up. When cutting to a critical line you need fresh consumables if you see any enlarging of the hole in the cup or distortion (out of round) in its hole replace it. Check the electrode as well if it is scarred on the tip replace it. That damp air will trash your tip and cup relatively quickly. Keep a good ground close to the cut. Once the cup and electrode are out of spec the arc will jump around and or cut at strange angles all of which make doing neat work impossible. Make sure your air pressure is staying up as decaying pressure will also play havoc with your consumables. Most machines in that size range need 90 psi so check your requirements. Then of course it does need the required input amperage. If you are tripping breakers you obviously are not providing it to the machine. Your cuts are really bad and evidence of an improperly set up machine. It should easily cut very neat lines in that thin of material with no problem given the above. You need a good shaded face shield of the correct darkness (you should be able to look at the arc without it blurring out and able to see the cut line as you cut) or a helmet with a variable lens. You absolutely need both hands so one can steady the other. Save that face mask for Halloween. You have to see the layout marks before you can cut to them. Rehearse the cut before starting so that you know you will be able to make all the movements in a smooth continuous motion with the least stop and resets as possible. Use guides (short pipe couplings, pieces of pipe, etc) to minimize the free hand cuts. You will really enjoy running a proper arc with a well set up plasma. Something it is well worth doing right. I have to add through hull fittings are not the place to practice welding or cutting. They are also a place suitable for stainless, not automobile mild steel exhaust pipe and clamps etc. As they corrode through you have a direct link to the outside water and a trip to the bottom. You might consider in your situation if you can getting a oxy/acetylene cutting outfit as they don't require a compressor or electricity. All these metal working processes require practice before you turn yourself loose on critical welds and cutting, lots of practice.
Love your videos but have some concerns as I’m sure others have pointed out.. exhaust install is a definite no. Too many wrong moves.. water line, exhaust material, welds. Then the timber, was it treated? If not treated always cedar as it’s more resistant to termites. Really concerned with the exhaust the most though. Couldn’t it have been routed higher up? Using a bilge outlet is really scary option.
Re: smallish holes, use a bimetal hole saw on a drill. Re: holes with a plasma cutter (or any shape really), make a template from thin MDF and trace it with the torch. It will come out much better.
More unsolicited advice. On any boat it is always best practice to thru-bolt any & all items when possible eg, the timbers you're installing starting at approximately 10:54 Good luck & all the best.
And use a welding Helmet you cut better with both hands a cheep welding helmet is typically 40 dollars brand new, if used I'm sure you could find one for cheaper but still use both hands when welding and cutting
the most important issue is to have the highest air pressure you can ,it is not so much the power that is the problem,the air and oxygen will propagate the cut by itself,the same as if you cut off the acetylene while cutting you will still be able to continue the cut.
The pieces of plywood under the deck. Dont have isolation between the steel and the wood. Moist will make the wood rot again. Full surface sika flex between the too will prefent that.
why not try a hole saw designed for metal cutting, just attach to your drill. Also with those nuts "that needed two people" to do up under the generator platform just get a hex bit for your drill (preferably a cordless impact driver) and with lactate on the nuts the immediate start up speed will often tighten the bolt without a human on the other side.
My friend....use a jig saw cut some thin scrap wood . What ever shape you want. You can now hold or screw that shape to your work place. Then use your plasma cutter around that shape . You will make perfect cuts every time
From now on our program will be numbered by "Episodes" and not "Weeks" anymore. We simply continue the numbers though, so today's show is called "Episode 33" (instead of "Week 33"). Thanks for your support, enjoy the video!
The format should be S00E00 which would be the series or season number and episode number. This is if you wish to conform to the rest of the whole world that is.
I liked the weeks instead of episodes, it had character. But you are the story teller, we are just listening here and you are telling a great story.
For holes that small, you should invest in a modest collection of hole saws.
Für den Plasmaschneider nimm dir aufjedenfall immer eine Schablone, geht auch aus Holz, dann bekommst du auch sauberer Schnitte hin. Feier deine Videos sehr ✌🏻👌🏼
On ether side of your cutter are two wheels rotate your cutter so than the wheels roll, not scrap along the material you are cutting and remember to pull the cutter, don’t try to guide it around the circle. There you go plasma cutter 101. I enjoy your channel and wish I could do the same, I hope you the best with the boat. Wish you did more content because I really enjoy watching.
i have brought armaflex for my caravan project because of your channel
I’m so glad that there are no regulations about noises in the U.K. you can mower your lawn, you can get your angle grinder out on a Sunday morning and no neighbour will ever complain… so easy going here in Scotland 🏴
Ich habe jetzt jede Folge von euch angeschaut. Großer Respekt vor dem was ihr da leistet. Jeder hätte schon 100 mal die Klamotten an die seite geworfen. Ihr zieht das durch. Finde ich echt klasse. Sicherlich könnte man manches besser machen. Es ist aber auch immer eine Frage der zeit und des Budgets. Gerade diese Videos von nicht Profis sind sehr spannend weil näher an der Wirklichkeit. Ich drücke euch die Daumen das ihr dies Projekt fertig bekommt. Ihr seid ja schon auf einem super Weg. 👍👍👍 Grüße Rainer
You need two hands for plasma cutting. A holesaw is much better for circles.
I owned and extensively modified a 13-meter sea-going catamaran for over 20 years. Having read the comments below I agree with a lot that has been said. I would never have anything petrol-driven inside of a boat. Not even keep petrol inside. Anything petrol should be stored outside above sea level in a self-draining locker. In my opinion, if you need a generator, it must be a water-cooled marine diesel, fitted to steelwork with rubber mounts. The exhaust could go through the deckhead, but a water-cooled exhaust is much quieter and will upset a lot fewer fellow sailors.
Hummm, so many years spent offshore fishing, and never once did I have the main engine, nor the fuel tanks, outside of the boat. And seriously, the main above the waterline?
@@bartjohnson8139, I wasn't thinking of petrol main engines, as I have rarely come across them, except my nephew's jet boat. With bilge fans and great care, I guess they can be kept safe. I used a petrol generator and had small outboards for the dingy, maintaining the above ware-line and self-draining lockers. This is easy on a catamaran where a large part of the boat has space to water level.
@@bartjohnson8139 I think he's referring to gasoline engines
You can drill a small pilot hole then cut nice round holes with a jigsaw, it'll be nice and neat. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
I love your channel. Well done. However, I have to agree with all those who've said this dry exhaust so close to the waterline is dangerous. Also the non marine generator in an enclosed space is dangerous. I would recommend highly that you keep your gen and exhaust external and rig a vented locker with sound absorption for it. What you've set up will be dangerous and would certainly fail a marine survey. I say this with the upmost support for you and your hard work.
Exactly what I was thinking. He's likely to get water going back into the generator like that. And from past experience an air cooled motor will need far more air flow in that small engine room.
Your projects are coming along nicely. Thanks for the updates.
Keep in mind the definition of "boat".
It truly is a hole in the water into which you pour copious amounts of money.
Enjoy your work.
Get some dark sun glasses or a pare of cutting glasses with #5 lenses. Because your generator doesn't make enough power to run your compressor and plasma cutter. Take a piece of scrap sheet metal tack weld it over the hole then you will be able to use a hole saw. The scrap piece will allow your drill bit to keep your hole saw straight. Buy a good set of hole saws they are a good investment. and can be used on everything Keep up the good work
G'day Crew,,
As per usual, you've given us all
another great episode , I enjoyed every minute .
You waved that plasma cutter round like a magic wand, or the light sabor that left Luke one handed . Im almost sure i could hear you under that welding mask saying : " Im your father (Captain) now burn "
Jokes aside ,, who knew there were so many "cuff rate" plasma cutting experts hiding in the ranks of river boat vlogs .
Having said that ,,on final install of the generator ,be absolutely sure to get the equilibrium of FLUX CAPACITOR correct .
Thanks for taking the time to share it with the faithfull,
really enjoyed it .
Respect
from
Down Under
Yes hole saws. A cheap die grinder is pretty handy for tidying up small areas also.
Nice to see the views and subscribers going up. Let's hope that continues. Thanks for sharing, Sir.
Man - Few time I look to your videos and deeply appreciated them. The wood timbers you're using must be pre-impragnated of you shuld hardly vannish them before final installation or ... You'll have to redo your job in 1/2 years ! Be strong and efficient - Loving what you do ;-))
We really enjoy watching your videos wish they were longer
Invest in hole saws...and maybe a used marine genset. You can purchase pre-manufactured flanges.
As always Great Show
Denny from Minnesota
NIcely done, German precision and attention to detail. Pay most people here in the States to do that job and it will turn out like crap.
Dude, stop using a plasma cutter for such thin materials, like 3mm sheet, far better to by some metal whole saws and use a drill and cooling oil and a regular drill ! Yes the hull would have been had ward work but you could have still done it given time and a lot tidier too. Still keep up the good work, really interesting and entertaining. Best of luck from the UK.
My thoughts exactly! If you have the right type of arbor, you can use 2 hole saws at once. One that fits the inside of the existing hole, and a second that enlarges the hole to the size you want.
Saved me the trouble of typing this one. Stop using the plasma cutter.
or a hole saw with oil :P
Coming along nicely, well done. When you use the plasma cutter for circles, take the wheels off. Thanks for inviting us along, stay safe.
The opening scenes and vintage music were sublime! Loved it!
Thats cozy nice work man.!
for filling the inner dia of circle you must use a pencil grinder fitted into a hand elecctric drill machine.
Damn you with not installing the generator!!!! Lololol!!!
I wanted to see that part!!! Guess I'll just have to wait till next week!!!....
This is like the only channel I wait to update! Lol
I have the same boat, so I find what you have to offer is to help me also with my refit
The Armacell is a great tip and I will also adopt this method
You also helped me with the stud work ideas. Though I might treat the timber and use stainless screws lol. Please keep up the good work and will look forward to every edition
Ned
@david knight oh really, the same boat? a Waddenkruiser? if so please reach out and send me some pics: myfirstboat2020@gmail.com
brilliant work, may i suggest for work on the edge of the boat, you can use a wooden pallet with a rope in each corner hanging from the boats hand rails to hold it in place, try looking for a bowsons chair in google and trying a larger flatter version, for the hole work you need to find a die grinder and use that to trim the inside holes
to cut through thich metal sheets its easy to use gas cutter, its smooth unlike plasma cutter
Your progress is coming along great, thanks for the solid video work as well.
I love your choice and use of diverse music...
You will my friends great vids and I think she will really look the part when you have finished I own a 35mtr motor yacht and
love to see you guy's making the best of what you have or can afford and not for one second do I think that I am more fortunate than you,
you through your own efforts are making your dreams come true, I just paid cash, what gratification is there in that.
God bless you.
Your music is amazing my friend. In all of your videos
Great progress, looking good! Best wishes, David and Tammy from Florida.
next time carve a wood plug for the hole and use a hole saw. Or drill 2-3 mm holes around the perimeter and pop it out. File to final shape.
When using a plasma cutting torch try using shade 3 lenses, it's not too dark and it's not too bright typically used for oxygen acetylene cutting
you need a water trap on that exaust if you get beam side waves you will flood your exaust plus if you go salt water you need stainless steel to keep it all from rusting out. P.S get rid of that old weld hood and get a new auto dim you can set the darkness, and go with the hole saws
You might wanna explore the world of holesaw's. Hammer in a wood plug in the old hole for the stabilizer drillbit.
Great videos. You should move the pull start on the generator 180 degrees. This way if the batteries go out or the electric start fails you can still pull start the geni. It’s easy just unbolt turn and reboot.
All the world loves a tryer , and where there's a will there's a way, great job guy's keep it up.
Just great I knew it would work.
Cheers from the UK.
Loved your music
Remember the old adages..... Boat means " Bust out another thousand" and " A boat is a hole in the water that you throw money in to" Definitely a labor of love though
Wieder super Arbeit. Noch mehr Videos bitte!☺️
superb report! bravo, I see the demonstration of the metal cutter from Lidl ... !! I also buy tools in France from them, it's the good Parkside brand, and not expensive ... !! Bravo for all this work and the acrobatic installation of the exhaust pipe ... !! it is always a very neat job ... !!
Use a hole cutter much neater because you already have a hole cut the size hole in a piece of wood put the wood over the hole that's already in the hull hold the wood put hole saw in the wood which will be the guide simples😎
Looking good
U can use a grinder to cut a round holes or a use a jig saw with a steel cutter blade or a sawsall with metal cutting blade will work as well.
Nice job m8, saw the genny take a walk across the deck, when you started it in in another vlog. Your doin well, stay safe, vertical an well.
Hey its a boat, all the timbers should be sealed. Maybe try linseed oil ... or any acrylic sealer undercoat but a thin epoxy is best.
In my opinion, it might have been better to spray a liquid foam 32 mm on all of the inside of all the Hull to insulate because in the winter when it's freezing this would help protect and keep the heat within the boat. By only insulating above the floor this will not insulate the hull and below the floor will be freezing in winter. When using the plasma metal cutter you should a jig to get an even cut.
Great vid. It is all about your willingness to learn and adapt on a project like this. In that regard you are succeeding my friend.
You NEED to invest in an auto darkening helmet. When I use my plasma cutter I use the helmet on grind mode and it’s dark enough not to hurt your eyes. You definitely need both hands free.
Might help to keep the two little wheels on the plasma cutter parallel to the cut your making, so your not skipping over the bumpy slag
When you are holding the plasma torch instead of dragging it using your arm, pivot with your wrist. You will get a much cleaner cut.
Use a metal hole saw, will make nice cut.
Oh man, it's gonna get so hot in that engine room. You'll be amazed at the amount of heat this small single cylinder generator is gonna put out, much more than your main engine! You need a water cooled unit that spin at 1800. It's gonna be much quieter and way easier to manage the heat.
Shade 5 goggles and loads of air , you can use wood cut just bigger than the hole or as an any shape you like fence to run along steady (single use). Clamped or big magnets.
I’ve been paying close attention to your work video after video. Your work is amazing! I’m a restoration guy my hobby for many years. Keep up the good work. I’m Benj watching your episodes. I’m loving them very much.
Get a wire feed welder for the small pipe and projects works better then stick
You are making this boat an excellent home and a wonderful craft. Such dedication and skill.
Always clean your welding surface. And when done welding, clean again and paint it. A couple times.
Circle cutter attachment for your plasma.Put get a marein grade fitting.
Although I have a plasma cutter, I don’t try to run it freehand for circles. For those I will tack weld a piece of scrap metal over the existing hole (in your circumstance) and proceed to use a normal hole cutter for steel, then I will grind off the tack welds that held the scrap steel in place to guide the hole cutter. There are jigs you can buy, but in your case they won’t do any good for a plasma cutter that you can’t effectively use because of a lack of power.
Consider getting a magnetic drill for making holes in metal. :)
My fiancé and I have discussed getting a house boat to renovate and your channel has been awesome. I realize the boats are different but you still are giving us a clear idea what would be involved so we can look at the project realistically. Thanks and we look forward to more!
And there you have it 😁
Great job. I hope you start another project straight after finishing your boat. Enjoyed watching your progress on this boat.
Looking Good Bro , I still have Faith In Ya
On a way strong wave can hit and damage your muffler. In my boat for this purpose installed ball valve to lock this hole in bad weather while on a move.
Put a screw in your material so your cut line is hanging over the edge of a bench. Hard mount the plasma cutter to something so it sits on the cut line. Rotate the metal and perfect circle every time.
Put some construction adhesive between the timbers and steel wall.
Hello. Just use a jigsaw with a steel blade ! I did cut a 6 mm sheet of metal with it and I Have a perfect cut !
Dude I comend you on your work with what you have and skill but some of the work your doing makes me wish I had the time and money to make a trip there to help you out! Keep at it!👍
You need to throw that welding helmet over the side into the water, and then set it on fire. Buy a good welding helmet, and a set of cutting goggles for the plasma. You can ever use very dark sunglasses. This will allow you to use TWO hands to work....
Literally anything besides what he did would be better lol
I was just about to make the same comnents.
An auto darkening helmet makes us amatuer welders five times better, for a really low price.
go to watch Lunar eclipses
@@dnomyarnostaw im a licenced plumber and pipe welder, i have th perfect one. a kemppi self darkening mask with an air system in the back when ventilation is unawalible:P
The cuts you made in the exhaust pipe for clamping? It looks like some of those cuts extend beyond the interior pipe, meaning there's a space where CO2 (Kohlendioxid?) could leak out into your engine room. I'd wrap those a couple of times in muffler (foil) tape before you clamp them down and definitely update your CO2/Smoke Alarms ASAP.
get a die grinder too for cleaning your holes
great progress
you can buy a round stone attachment that screws onto the grinder to make the hole look better at any welding supply store, you might be better getting an oxy/acetylating torch kit since you're limited on power or compressed air. I have used 5 green lenses or you can find a cheap auto-darkening lens that adjusts shades 5-10,12 at a big box home depot or lowes type stores that are good for hobby welders
Tip: Just witnessed your cuts and welds....be sure to purchase high-quality Carbon Monoxide detectors...seriously
For more reasons then just what he calls welding FACTS!!!!
Let me add yet another comment about your "adapter" where you cut slots in the muffler pipe so you could clamp it down onto the smaller diameter tail pipe. Seriously, that never works. You will never get that joint to be gas tight unless you weld it up. CO poisoning will ruin your day.
Ou my god, what would you do without your viewers?
@@Wippe84 Carbon monoxide will kill when viewers are not around. Even the gas exhausted to the outside can and find its way back inside.
Forget the CO detector. Good ventilation !!
Use guide templates for plasma cutting
My god you guys with Plasma :D ;)
Try hole saws to cut holes ...
If you want to cut a round hole .do it with out the wheels on the end of the cutter.rest your elbow on the metal and free hand the cut
Take the rollers off the plasma torch an free hand & invest in a welding hood that you don’t have to hold with one hand
Cut a hole in the hull near the water line wow
I will suggest you install a drain plug on the muffler. For obvious reasons.
Crude but effective…..one thing to consider is stainless steel hardware and a mig welder
Plasma cutters are unforgiving about marginal air supply. There are two kinds of torches also, the contact or drag tip and the arc style needing a standoff distance. The tip never actually touches the metal. Using them incorrectly will burn up consumables very quickly indeed. The electrodes need to match the cup. The lack of a water filtration system on your air will also compound the problem. Keep an eye on the torch consumables as you will have to change them often with damp air and restricted flow. At a minimum I would suggest (other than a bigger compressor) adding an additional air tank in line so you could do a small cut without the air starving. Then just work within the limits of your set up. When cutting to a critical line you need fresh consumables if you see any enlarging of the hole in the cup or distortion (out of round) in its hole replace it. Check the electrode as well if it is scarred on the tip replace it. That damp air will trash your tip and cup relatively quickly. Keep a good ground close to the cut. Once the cup and electrode are out of spec the arc will jump around and or cut at strange angles all of which make doing neat work impossible. Make sure your air pressure is staying up as decaying pressure will also play havoc with your consumables. Most machines in that size range need 90 psi so check your requirements. Then of course it does need the required input amperage. If you are tripping breakers you obviously are not providing it to the machine. Your cuts are really bad and evidence of an improperly set up machine. It should easily cut very neat lines in that thin of material with no problem given the above. You need a good shaded face shield of the correct darkness (you should be able to look at the arc without it blurring out and able to see the cut line as you cut) or a helmet with a variable lens. You absolutely need both hands so one can steady the other. Save that face mask for Halloween. You have to see the layout marks before you can cut to them. Rehearse the cut before starting so that you know you will be able to make all the movements in a smooth continuous motion with the least stop and resets as possible. Use guides (short pipe couplings, pieces of pipe, etc) to minimize the free hand cuts. You will really enjoy running a proper arc with a well set up plasma. Something it is well worth doing right. I have to add through hull fittings are not the place to practice welding or cutting. They are also a place suitable for stainless, not automobile mild steel exhaust pipe and clamps etc. As they corrode through you have a direct link to the outside water and a trip to the bottom. You might consider in your situation if you can getting a oxy/acetylene cutting outfit as they don't require a compressor or electricity. All these metal working processes require practice before you turn yourself loose on critical welds and cutting, lots of practice.
Está ficando top... 👍🇧🇷
Love your videos but have some concerns as I’m sure others have pointed out.. exhaust install is a definite no. Too many wrong moves.. water line, exhaust material, welds. Then the timber, was it treated? If not treated always cedar as it’s more resistant to termites. Really concerned with the exhaust the most though. Couldn’t it have been routed higher up? Using a bilge outlet is really scary option.
Re: smallish holes, use a bimetal hole saw on a drill. Re: holes with a plasma cutter (or any shape really), make a template from thin MDF and trace it with the torch. It will come out much better.
More unsolicited advice. On any boat it is always best practice to thru-bolt any & all items when possible eg, the timbers you're installing starting at approximately 10:54
Good luck & all the best.
And use a welding Helmet you cut better with both hands a cheep welding helmet is typically 40 dollars brand new, if used I'm sure you could find one for cheaper but still use both hands when welding and cutting
the most important issue is to have the highest air pressure you can ,it is not so much the power that is the problem,the air and oxygen will propagate the cut by itself,the same as if you cut off the acetylene while cutting you will still be able to continue the cut.
Just a tip, these “timbers” are called battens or wooden slats…
Most esyest way is to place a wooden keg into he hole. Cut it off and use it as a center for a iron dril to make a bigger hole.
The pieces of plywood under the deck. Dont have isolation between the steel and the wood. Moist will make the wood rot again. Full surface sika flex between the too will prefent that.
why not try a hole saw designed for metal cutting, just attach to your drill. Also with those nuts "that needed two people" to do up under the generator platform just get a hex bit for your drill (preferably a cordless impact driver) and with lactate on the nuts the immediate start up speed will often tighten the bolt without a human on the other side.