Refuse to buy deliberately poorly designed, planned obsolescent products and they will. Always do your research before purchase and vote with your wallet.
This video inspired me to copper mode the same 3070ti Tuf gaming GPU. I did it few weeks ago and so far so good! The temperature is around 68C, but I covered cooper plates by using special liquid to prevent from shorting circuit. So that's why my temperature is a bit higher. Also, I used thermal pads to isolate memory chips. It is hard to believe that some GPUs have a massive radiator, but such things as thermal pads don't work well!
@@bohdansamusko yea its very interesting, alot of the reason this works as well as it does too gpus or cpus for that matter simply have thin crappy alum/copper, ive never seen a heatsink actually have a very thick alum/copper makeup at all, its insane honestly. these shims cost like 2$ or less and the companies could put them on the mem pre installed so easily, its literally like adding 100$ of performance to a product in terms of how much difference it can make, sometimes more
it doesn't work that well depending on gpu and correct thickness, not easy, i copper modded more than 12 times different gddr6x only, i just used less thickness shims than needed and i don't use thermal paste, i use thermal putty (sticky and no need for kapton tape etc as it acts as electrical isolator as well, i can keep the hottest card easily under 90c in the summer inside the farm with no fans so its all good, long time sub Sebs, keep em coming!
Ive done this on over 10 gpus so far and had incredible results each time, also on vrm/cpu/ even a desk fan ive attached like 10 shims onto its heatsink and it literally made a 50% difference, these copper shims are incredibly powerful
I can't belive this is a 6k sub channel producing this level of content. Criminally undervalued you are my friend, very very well done! You are putting multi billion dollar corpo R&D shops to shame.
Really cool stuff @Dandyworks. I just found your channel and i gotta say this "cooper mod" is about the coolest thing i've seen done on a GPU. The temperature readings speak for themselves man. Keep up the good work bro...
I did some undervolting and got some pretty good results. I saw the first video you did and thought I might try the copper mod if the undervolting didn't work. So far, the undervolting is pretty close to what you're getting. However, should I decide to do the mod, I'll use your videos as reference material. Thanks for the update!
I appreciate the tip with the "Heat Resistant Tape". It never hurts to be safe. I'm gonna give the CoolMyGpu copper mod a try hopefully this week. I've also been adding an alluminum heat sink to the backs of my GPU plates. As I haven't done the mod yet, so any bit of cooling helps as of now. Can't wait to try this out!
I am going to do it. I was waiting for this type of product/solution instead of the complete DIY as you did in the initial video. Thanks for sharing this!! Greetings from Argentina!
When I suggested this way back in the day everyone told me it was a crap Idea but I am glad to see it is alive an well. Also somehow those customs copper plates look sick.
@@dandyworks It's been that way throughout history. Anyone trying anything new is viewed with suspicion or ridiculed. The herd instinct is strong 😉 Nice videos, thanks for sharing your results 👍
I’ve tried your first solution and it worked great! (Same GPU as yours, my temp went fron 106 C to 76 C mining) I wanna try also this one, the 1 piece copper plate seems a lot easier to work with
I’ve got a passively cooled system where I’ve had great success swapping the thermal pads for some home-made copper shims. I didn’t notice any such improvement using different thermal pastes, though. The TG Kryonaut Extreme worked just as well as MX-4 while being a bit more difficult to work on since it’s rather pudgy.
I have seen great variation in the subjective effectiveness of Kryonaut Extreme VS other pastes. For me it's always superior even if only by a degree or two C (It better be for that price!) but of course MX-4 is fantastic.
saw your original copper mod video, very impressive results, with the temps getting far higher than I am personally comfortable with on a lot of these GPU's its definitely worth doing IMO, gotta say though that the custom plate is pretty expensive for very negligible performance gain, the "shims" are of course kind of DIY, but if it works and costs a lot less that's a win to me. It seems like 95% of the performance for less than 50% of the price. Either way definitely a worth while mod.
Absolutely agree with you. I looked around for thermal paste reviews/testings and it turns out the change from Arctic MX-4 thermal paste to Kryonaut thermal paste is really what gave the 4-6 Celsius bump in performance (game load comparison). Had I did more research and paid more attention I would have saved myself $20 (+Shipping cost) difference if I just ordered the DIY Shims.
out of all the copper mod vids i've seen, i like yours the best. you're the only person i've seen that used that tape to protect from shorts. my 3090 blew itself up after only 3 months right in the middle of the gpu crisis and i had to put my old gtx 560 ti back into my brand new gaming computer because i literally couldnt find a replacement for 7 months. im not gonna make that mistake again. gonna make sure my new card is nice and cool.
If you browse the internet, there a lot of videos expertly done with kapton tapes recommendations a year ago. He just picked it up the use from these videos.
True, especially when temperature exceeds 70~75°c. High viscosity pastes last longer on direct-core chips. Kryonaut, NT-H1 / 2 and MX-4 are more suited for heat spreader equipped chips
Hold on a minute, there’s absolutely no difference in moisture level between air cooling and water cooling as long as your loop isn’t leaking, and if your loop is leaking on to your graphics card, it’s gonna get fried before it has a chance to corrode. So there’s no reason you couldn’t use copper shims for water cooling, just make damn sure you get the correct size.
$100 for that thermal paste?! I know TG is proud of their stuff, but damn! I modded my 1070Ti a while back with the Morpheus II cooler, and used K5 thermal paste, and it has done a nice job. Much more price friendly for what seems about the same amount. Real nice! I'll probably do something like this once I do decided to upgrade.
I’ve washed cards before. No issues when dried properly. Thermal putty under and on top of the copper plate would have worked also. Performing a “squeeze fit” and pulling the card apart again to check contact of GPU before screwing everything together is also a good practice.
you really do not need the copper plates on anything under the 3080. good quality thermal pads will be far enough for gddr6 and below. gddr6x is the issue. far greater heat output.
Could you do a video of an overclock on this card to see how far you can push it with the better thermals? Most people that would do this would be trying to overclock it as much as thermals would allow. I'm curious what performance increase you could get with this mod.
Watching you videos inspired me to doing this mod on gigabyte vision rtx 3080. Memory temps are way down during gaming but I also think youre right as my core temps have gone up a bit. STill pretty great when combined with a modest undervolt.
hey there ! very nice content, I watched the complete process and I'm very interrested in the modification of my 2 rtx 3090, but I can't figure the thickness of the copper plate. Also, are you using a plate coming from coolmygpu ? or is it a custom made ? Because as there are ram chips on the two sides I dunno what to use : big copper plate or small ones like you used on the previous video. advice needed here. Moreover, I never did such a modification on a gpu, but I feel confident.
I recommend 1.5mm thermal pads, the same size as the shims! Gelid Extremes (linked in description) have been very kind to me, and if you are willing to pay the premium I say go for those. 2mm will also work due to the nature of the dual heatsink design, but there isn’t really any performance gain using the bigger pads.
hello and congratulations on the video! really interesting! i wanted to ask you a question, how thick are the copper thermal pads? also, is this thickness the same for all types of rtx 3070ti (asus evga zotac etc.. ec..)? thanks i'm waiting for your answer Thank you!
You are slowly evolving to the GPU memory plate I made for my waterblock. Juts make a plate that covers the GPU mounting holes and drill them to match in the plate. Cut out any areas that make component contact then you are done. Perfect fit copper plate that won't move and has maximal contact and heat sinking capacity. My Kawpow mining temps with this method are 46C core 50C Mem.
Hi! I just did the mod with the little copper plates from your other video. I am so happy, that i didn't short anything... yet... My memory temp dropped from 90 to 70 :-D Thank you for the tutorial. But do I need to change it the thermal paste every month? Or how long can I use it like this when I am mining? And do I have to live in fear, that there could be a shortage every moment? Because I am a little bit scared now :-D Thanks for the answers
Some people say you should change paste every X months, while others say you never need to. I usually change paste every 6 months just because I can, and it gives me a chance to clean my GPU. If you have modded your GPU correctly, I would not live in fear. But I would also perform a visual inspection every so often to makes sure everything is fine. Also, if your GPU is sitting horizontal, I certainly wouldn't worry about shims moving. They won't.
I tried it once on my powercolor 5700xt and the memory temps got worse. I think it could be that my copper shims were too thin and there might be not enough contact pressure for proper heat transfer. I'll try it again in the future with slightly thicker copper shims. But its such a pain and hassle to mod it that i've been putting it off.
I’ve done thirty 3080 FEs, as they are all defective out of the box. They all perform differently, as the cards are all different. Quality control, what’s that? The difference seems to be the relative height of the VRAM vs the GPU. In many 3080 FE cards (including the same rev) the GPU doesn’t make strong contact even with 1.37 mm copper, and the GPU temp goes way up , say, from 52 under load to high 60s, or worst cast 75-80. All will involving some degree of hash throttling. A thick wad of chewing gum like pink Thermal Grizzly extreme can bridge the gap without strong contact. But it’s not good for hash rates as they seem to follow core temp, not VRAM temp. Usually cards with strong GPU contact and weak VRAM contact fare better bcs RAM temp will still be reduced by 10 degrees which it’s not a hash rate problem. There is no way to predict, AFAICT, which cards need what copper thickness. The CoolmyGPU solution seems to be a hybrid copper and 0.5mm pad recommendation, which is an ok way to go. The most predictable result is simply to use 1.5mm (for 3080 FE) Gelid extreme thermal pads. They allow enough give to let the GPU make contact, I give a solid push on the sandwich before tightening up. That will reduce VRAM to 82 to 84 and Thermal Grizzly extreme on the GPU will result in 50 to 62 on the core. It’s easy, fast and more predictable. Copper is not consistent bcs the FE cards are not consistent. But if you are willing to reopen the card and analyze the paste for contact patterns several times, maybe as many as 10 times, usually, but not always, you will get a better result than a simple high performance repadding. I recommend repadding cards instead of copper or aluminum (which seems to work better than copper for unknown reasons, maybe the faster heat conduction speed) as simple pads give more predictable squish and often result in a better hash rate (even with a litter higher VRAM temp) because GPU contact is tighter and the core temp drives mining performance.
Not sure if I should do this or just put good pads on, also can you link that new copper plate instead of the old shims in the desc? Wondering about resale value as well. Is thermal grizzly kryonaut extreme ok for the gpu? I keep hearing the term pushout but not sure what that means.
im planning on doing it on my 3070, even though my temps have never gotten higher than 65 with an OC of 125 core and 1000 on the memory. and all my games being high or max resolution @ 1440. still this makes me incredibly curious, and i have a friend with a CNC machine sooooo im def making a plate lol Another great video my guy, keep it up.
@@Techno4more I mean yes, and no.. obviously I don’t even need to do anything because like I said my thermals are phenomenal. However there’s technical not rlly such a thing as “more than enough” When it comes to cooling electronics, especially when the electronics are very expensive and not only will the card last longer with lower thermals, but it gives an added bonus of better performance when it comes to stability and overclocking, even with diminishing returns it’s still simply better in every way than it would be without lower thermals. if it was some crazy expensive cooling product I’d say absolutely not that’s stupid, but for the price it’s literally dumb not to. Obviously as long as you’re confident with your abilities to do such a thing.
Your video that got me to purchase the copper block from CoolMyGPU and I saw a drop from 102°c on my FE RTX 3080ti while playing ready or not down to 64° c on the memory.
exact same card and exact same application, 1 month in I was getting close to 100c memory temps so I opened it and one of the copper shims at the bottom left of the card moved down. it wasn't touching anything to short and burn the gpu but that was scary af. switched it with a slightly thicker one and when reassembling the card I screwed the bottom half of the card first and a bit tighter before screwing in the top side. now it's doing fine. 180w, 82mh, 88c memory on %70 fan
This was such a great video because now it works really well now and it was working really bad before but then I watched this and turned around and it was working soooo well so thank you so much because I didn’t know what I was gonna do and it reminds me of the time that my dog was running in circles and I was worried she wasn’t okay so I looked up on the internet what to do and then she stopped going in circles and I was so happy I gave her a treat and then we started playing with her favorite tennis ball she was so happy
Hi Dandy, so underrated channel, excellent content. My first question: Copper size 1,5mm or 1,2 or something. And second, Did you try it on 3080 ti TUF, it would be awesome if u make a test for it, caz that card is so hot even after thermal paddng regularly. Thanks bro.
I've seen somewhere on the alliexpress the backplate " heatsink " cooling the gpu chip and memory but for the older gtx 1080Ti which is still powerfull gpu tbh. The effect was not so impressive but having 2-4c down is a nice bonus. Not to mention the price for that heatsink, 35$ including shipping.
My stock gigabyte 3080 mem temp is in the 80s so i dont think this mod is gonna help it in anyway.. but this mod is really great in your case since your card hits 110
Same, I'd love to know. My 3080 was copper modded for around a year and was perfectly fine, memory temps around 80C but core got a bit hotter. Only recently removed it since I was worried the plate may be a bit thick and put too much pressure on the memory chip solder joints, as had happened for one gpu on a gpu repair channel. After new pads my core temps dropped, confirming my suspicion so I'm happy with just pads for now. Core temps are lower than they were stock and vram still stays below 90C in games. In Furmark it goes to 100C, but nothing else I do ever pushes the vram that hard. And that's still 10C less than stock pads. And for reference, it's a Zotac 3080 Trinity (takes 2mm pads but the gelid ones I got had to be squished down a lot to get good core contact), the copper plate is exactly 1.6mm thick, I think if I somehow got it machined down to 1.50mm it would be perfect and I would consider reinstalling it maybe. For now I don't want to risk dislodging a vram chip for temperatures that don't really matter.
Dear, excellent video, from Argentina, if it's not too much to ask, could you put the measurements to be able to cut the mod, and what material is it exactly? I just have a similar board that has temperature problems. if you could attach it in a pdf format in the form of a drawing with the exact measurements. It would be of great help to the community, best regards.
Great Great Great video , I have a question please : I do have the Rog strix version of the 3070 Ti, I'm at around 75°, should I change the Asus pads ? can I buy the same copper plate as yours for my card and where please ? on of your link ?
I did this to 3 of my GPU's. 2 of them were 3080TI's (FE). What he says in 9:40 mark is absolutely correct Not all GPU and Copper plate will be the same, obviously, but I mean in terms of mm's. When I did my 3070TI Asus Strix, I didn't apply all that much thermal paste between the copper plate and sub heatsink, but I finished first try and had improved temperature. When I did the first 3080TI FE, I spent half of my Saturday and about 10 retakes. I couldn't figure out where it wasn't making full contact because every time I took it apart, it was obvious the thermal pastes had made contact with the heatsink. So, I said screw it and put another line of thermal paste on top of the copper plate, put it together, and it worked. The 2nd 3080TI FE took only about 30 minutes with an handsome amount of thermal paste between the copper plate and heatsink. Worked on the first try. I would say I probably used more than twice the thermal paste between the copper plate and heatsink on the 80TI FE vs 70TI Asus Strix. The amount of thermal paste used on the 80TI FE is more like using thermal pads rather than just a layer to make full contact, like in the 70TI Strix. Same goes for between the memory and copper plate. Instead of just a layer of thermal paste like I did on the Asus, I did a layer then added couple more drips of thermal paste (without spreading it) on top of it for each square. This helps close the gap that you have to make between the copper plate and heatsink. Having one side of the copper plate bear all the thermal paste is a bit dangerous because this is a paste after all, not a pad. The stability of having like 2.5mm thickness of paste to force contact between the copper plate and heatsink is a bit much to ask. Even closing the gap to 2mm thickness of paste, by adding .5mm of paste on the other side of the copper plate (between the mem and copper), is a huge ease of mind. It's like making a sandwich, you don't want meat to be towards one slice of bread. You'd want the meat to be as centered as possible, so you can have the most flavor combination with the other ingredients.
What thickness was the copper for your Asus Strix 3070ti? I'm looking into doing this mod as my gaming temps are over 90C in some cases. Thanks for any info!
@@ztryfe I got the copper plate from the same place DandyWorks did (actually, it's through his previous videos that I found out about it) from CoolMyGpu. I just checked the page for the 3070TI Copper Plate I ordered, but not seeing any dimension specs. So, to answer your question, I have no idea the thickness of the copper plate I used. You could probably email them for exact spec, but if you see a copper plate that is designed for your GPU (they have a list of compatible and also explicitly states what's not) then you shouldn't have to care about the thickness. If you're asking because you're planning to order copper PIECES, like how DandyWorks had it in the beginning of this video, then I can't help you there unfortunately. If you have the 3070TI STRIX, then www.coolmygpu.com/product/ga104/2?cs=true&cst=custom "should" work for you, since I'm not seeing anything that explicitly says not being compatible for Asus 3070TI STRIX. It's definitely on the expensive end vs doing copper pieces, but I'm happy with it and no longer see RED temp numbers on my mining rig.
@@LeeIB_Hup thanks! With shipping it's really expensive for me. I am looking into copper pieces. I did send an email to Cool My GPU asking for confirmation on compatibility. Never got a response :(
@@ztryfe To be honest, if all you’re seeing is 90c while gaming, you shouldn’t be too worried. Obviously, the lower you can keep temps, the better… but if it cost money to do so, you’d have to think if it’s worth the cost. I only put copper plates on my GPUs that constantly ran above 90C. If you only game with your GPU, then don’t sweat it. Unless you’re seeing frequent gaming performance drop (because of thermal throttling), 90C Gucci. Mining is 24/7, whereas gaming is several hours at best. Occasionally hitting high temps isn’t a problem, but constant high temps (aka mining) will speed up its life span. This is all mem temps, of course. If your core temps are in the 90’s, put a better thermal paste asap Lastly, if it assures you any, a buddy of mine has been running his mining rigs for couple years now. Couple of them been in the high 90’s like forever. It’s still mining at its expected hash rate. So, don’t stress about the temps. If you notice frame drops or frequent crashes while gaming, NOW is definitely the time to monitor the temps. Otherwise, the only solution to get better performance is just upgrade your GPU. Improving the temps by 20-25% won’t give you the equivalent performance boost. If anything, it’s more about extending the life of your GPU as much as possible. The only exception is if you overclock.
@@LeeIB_Hup core temps hover at 65-70. Mem temp goes to around 90-102 (Guardians of the Galaxy, Ray Tracing, is the worst case scenario 102 after an hour or so) feels a tad overboard. All while gaming, never had throttling thou. I understand the mining workload is much more memory intensive than gaming, but reviews and specs mention it should be more like 80. That's why I'm looking into copper mod, if it makes sense and it's not overly expensive, might try it.
My memory temps gaming on a 3080ti are max 60c mostly from undervolting, and that's without a copper mod. My gpu temps are 53c and hotspot 60c. I also keep my fans at 100%. Just use good quality thermal pads on the front and back of the gpu. Also tighten the four spring screws to the heatsink as tight as possible.
I switched from Stock GPU cooler to AiO cooler, and managed to drop 40 degrees celsius, next i will try to get a new GPU and maybe try the Copper mod out, it looked very promising
Why do you need to put kapton tape when thermal grease is not conductive? and is it possible for the copper shims to be removed completely? meaning, the memory chips directly contacting to the sub-heat sink?
Kapton tape is a safety precaution taken to prevent any copper from making contact with components mounted to the PCB. Sometimes, a capacitor or resistor will sit above the plane of the memory chip, and if the copper was touching that component, there is basically a 100% chance that component will blow up. It is possible for the sub-heatsink to make direct contact with the memory chips. This is pretty much unique to this GPU in particular though.
Back in the day you could buy solid copper heatsinks for a few bucks and they did cool CPU's and northbridges really well (no need for heatpipes or anything like that, in some cases you didn't even need a fan). Those days are long past, unfortunately.
Perhaps we should bring those days back. Nvidia is once again taking the "MORE POWAH" approach to increasing GPU performance, and that doesn't bode well for the longevity of the components (Maybe AIBs will begin to incorporate expensive but reliable GaN mosfets instead?). Maybe I could design something for GPUs...
@@dandyworks It really depends on what kind of NVidia card you are buying and what you are doing with it. Their lower end cards are very efficient for gaming at 1080p, and don't consume alot of power. I have a midrange gaming PC with a Geforce GTX 1650 Super and Ryzen 5 3600 inside an very old (15? years) Antec case. My whole setup is drawing well less than 300 watts under full load and only has one case fan.
Good videos, well done, clear, concise. re: "don't do this if you've never replaced thermal pads..." I am sure that is good advice. How can I find someone, a shop or other, to do this for me???
Hello, Great video! Thanks for sharing. Can you please post the link from where I can order the cooper plates? What thickness do you use for Asus TUF 3070 TI?
Hola un abrazo, excelente video, quería preguntarte donde compras la plaqueta que utilizaste en este video, en los enlaces que dejaste no la referenciaste. Gracias
I feel like it would’ve been a better video to do this in six months or a year and then just had some periodic update videos to go over performance and temp in the mean time
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Honestly for the price we're paying for graphics cards, these practices should become standard for manufacturers.
we need to strike of gamers against planned aging
Refuse to buy deliberately poorly designed, planned obsolescent products and they will.
Always do your research before purchase and vote with your wallet.
Agree
i hope there is a company with words "create and made from gamers for gamers"
old cards were made like this lol
Man seeing 62C mem temp is so surreal lol! Another amazing video, you're crushing it!
This video inspired me to copper mode the same 3070ti Tuf gaming GPU. I did it few weeks ago and so far so good! The temperature is around 68C, but I covered cooper plates by using special liquid to prevent from shorting circuit. So that's why my temperature is a bit higher. Also, I used thermal pads to isolate memory chips.
It is hard to believe that some GPUs have a massive radiator, but such things as thermal pads don't work well!
Hi Seb, I am a follower of your channel. Have you tried copper modding? It works really great!
@@bohdansamusko yea its very interesting, alot of the reason this works as well as it does too gpus or cpus for that matter simply have thin crappy alum/copper, ive never seen a heatsink actually have a very thick alum/copper makeup at all, its insane honestly. these shims cost like 2$ or less and the companies could put them on the mem pre installed so easily, its literally like adding 100$ of performance to a product in terms of how much difference it can make, sometimes more
it doesn't work that well depending on gpu and correct thickness, not easy, i copper modded more than 12 times different gddr6x only, i just used less thickness shims than needed and i don't use thermal paste, i use thermal putty (sticky and no need for kapton tape etc as it acts as electrical isolator as well, i can keep the hottest card easily under 90c in the summer inside the farm with no fans so its all good, long time sub Sebs, keep em coming!
@@bohdansamusko how did you isolate memory chips did you put just small amount around memory chips with thermal pad ?
Ive done this on over 10 gpus so far and had incredible results each time, also on vrm/cpu/ even a desk fan ive attached like 10 shims onto its heatsink and it literally made a 50% difference, these copper shims are incredibly powerful
Hello, where can I find them?
@@Jeanpaisa89 Amazon..
I can't belive this is a 6k sub channel producing this level of content. Criminally undervalued you are my friend, very very well done! You are putting multi billion dollar corpo R&D shops to shame.
Really cool stuff @Dandyworks. I just found your channel and i gotta say this "cooper mod" is about the coolest thing i've seen done on a GPU. The temperature readings speak for themselves man. Keep up the good work bro...
I used 0.5mm thermal pads between the 1.5mm thick copper plate and the memory chips. Regular thermal pads were 2 mm thick. The effect is the same.
I did some undervolting and got some pretty good results. I saw the first video you did and thought I might try the copper mod if the undervolting didn't work. So far, the undervolting is pretty close to what you're getting. However, should I decide to do the mod, I'll use your videos as reference material. Thanks for the update!
What card have you got? How much undervolt? I have a ventus 3x plus OC and wondered what the sweet spot might be
I appreciate the tip with the "Heat Resistant Tape". It never hurts to be safe. I'm gonna give the CoolMyGpu copper mod a try hopefully this week. I've also been adding an alluminum heat sink to the backs of my GPU plates. As I haven't done the mod yet, so any bit of cooling helps as of now. Can't wait to try this out!
It's great to hear someone who knows a little science in the PC hardware space.
I went with the CMG copper mod and it’s been great. My 3080 FE in a SFF with an overclock still sits at 69c core, 84 memory.
My stock Aorus 3080 master never breaks 70c at load and my VRAM has never seen temps past 71c so your mod wasn’t that good.
@@NorthsideChamps16cap good mod
More importantly, why are you making us stare at a Disney snow globe? Why is this the thing in focus???
Man, you are such a pleasure to watch the way you present things and talk us through the video. Subbed!
Thank you!!
Was excited for this followup! Really clever mod.
Glad to see it's still performing well!
I am going to do it. I was waiting for this type of product/solution instead of the complete DIY as you did in the initial video. Thanks for sharing this!! Greetings from Argentina!
how'd it go
Worked out great, lowered mine by almost 20c. Thanks!
When I suggested this way back in the day everyone told me it was a crap Idea but I am glad to see it is alive an well. Also somehow those customs copper plates look sick.
Perhaps people shouldn't be so quick to judge one's ideas without testing them first. Thanks for watching my video!
@@dandyworks It's been that way throughout history. Anyone trying anything new is viewed with suspicion or ridiculed. The herd instinct is strong 😉 Nice videos, thanks for sharing your results 👍
I really enjoyed the videos you have made, I hope we see more! I am not a confident tweaker but this has made me think of giving it a shot.
Man, you're awesome. Love your videos and thank you for them
I’ve tried your first solution and it worked great! (Same GPU as yours, my temp went fron 106 C to 76 C mining) I wanna try also this one, the 1 piece copper plate seems a lot easier to work with
I’ve got a passively cooled system where I’ve had great success swapping the thermal pads for some home-made copper shims. I didn’t notice any such improvement using different thermal pastes, though. The TG Kryonaut Extreme worked just as well as MX-4 while being a bit more difficult to work on since it’s rather pudgy.
I have seen great variation in the subjective effectiveness of Kryonaut Extreme VS other pastes. For me it's always superior even if only by a degree or two C (It better be for that price!) but of course MX-4 is fantastic.
saw your original copper mod video, very impressive results, with the temps getting far higher than I am personally comfortable with on a lot of these GPU's its definitely worth doing IMO, gotta say though that the custom plate is pretty expensive for very negligible performance gain, the "shims" are of course kind of DIY, but if it works and costs a lot less that's a win to me. It seems like 95% of the performance for less than 50% of the price. Either way definitely a worth while mod.
Absolutely agree with you. I looked around for thermal paste reviews/testings and it turns out the change from Arctic MX-4 thermal paste to Kryonaut thermal paste is really what gave the 4-6 Celsius bump in performance (game load comparison). Had I did more research and paid more attention I would have saved myself $20 (+Shipping cost) difference if I just ordered the DIY Shims.
no body should dislike your videos, I get dislikes and then I go to my room and cry, lol...
Also I did the coolmygpu mode on my FTW3 3080ti and am loving it....
GPU heatsinks are generally nickel plated copper anyway.
You deserve way more subs, this video is high quality.
out of all the copper mod vids i've seen, i like yours the best. you're the only person i've seen that used that tape to protect from shorts. my 3090 blew itself up after only 3 months right in the middle of the gpu crisis and i had to put my old gtx 560 ti back into my brand new gaming computer because i literally couldnt find a replacement for 7 months. im not gonna make that mistake again. gonna make sure my new card is nice and cool.
If you browse the internet, there a lot of videos expertly done with kapton tapes recommendations a year ago. He just picked it up the use from these videos.
Careful with MX4. It separates over time with GPUs based on my history. Would recommend GC Extreme over it.
True, especially when temperature exceeds 70~75°c. High viscosity pastes last longer on direct-core chips. Kryonaut, NT-H1 / 2 and MX-4 are more suited for heat spreader equipped chips
@@harrydijkstra9936mx6?
Damn, this looks like a ton of work... Good job!
Hold on a minute, there’s absolutely no difference in moisture level between air cooling and water cooling as long as your loop isn’t leaking, and if your loop is leaking on to your graphics card, it’s gonna get fried before it has a chance to corrode. So there’s no reason you couldn’t use copper shims for water cooling, just make damn sure you get the correct size.
Its amazing bro, nice vid
Haha, you made exactly the thing I commented on your last video (which I watched 10 mins ago)...pretty cool
Good job with these two videos. Fantastically well done. Soooooo.... You in CA? How does one pay a dude to do this? Set up shop my dude!
Hahaha, not in CA, but I wouldn’t mind modding people’s GPUs for them. Good idea!
$100 for that thermal paste?! I know TG is proud of their stuff, but damn! I modded my 1070Ti a while back with the Morpheus II cooler, and used K5 thermal paste, and it has done a nice job. Much more price friendly for what seems about the same amount. Real nice! I'll probably do something like this once I do decided to upgrade.
the 2-3 degree difference TG gains is not cost efficient - a good moderately priced thermal paste is fine.
It's for a tub of the stuff.
I’ve washed cards before. No issues when dried properly. Thermal putty under and on top of the copper plate would have worked also. Performing a “squeeze fit” and pulling the card apart again to check contact of GPU before screwing everything together is also a good practice.
Nerd!!! That was awesome keep up the great work!
Always fun to see such a massive improvement.
I really wish they make this mod for every card above the 10 series from nvidia
you really do not need the copper plates on anything under the 3080. good quality thermal pads will be far enough for gddr6 and below. gddr6x is the issue. far greater heat output.
Just did this mod with Thermalright TF, memory 64 degrees and core at around 70 at max load, dude... Thanks!
Could you do a video of an overclock on this card to see how far you can push it with the better thermals? Most people that would do this would be trying to overclock it as much as thermals would allow. I'm curious what performance increase you could get with this mod.
Watching you videos inspired me to doing this mod on gigabyte vision rtx 3080. Memory temps are way down during gaming but I also think youre right as my core temps have gone up a bit. STill pretty great when combined with a modest undervolt.
hey there ! very nice content, I watched the complete process and I'm very interrested in the modification of my 2 rtx 3090, but I can't figure the thickness of the copper plate. Also, are you using a plate coming from coolmygpu ? or is it a custom made ? Because as there are ram chips on the two sides I dunno what to use : big copper plate or small ones like you used on the previous video. advice needed here. Moreover, I never did such a modification on a gpu, but I feel confident.
My boy great video! What thermal pad thickness you suggest for the 3070 ti Asus Tuf?
I recommend 1.5mm thermal pads, the same size as the shims! Gelid Extremes (linked in description) have been very kind to me, and if you are willing to pay the premium I say go for those. 2mm will also work due to the nature of the dual heatsink design, but there isn’t really any performance gain using the bigger pads.
@@dandyworks thank you for the reply, i'm gunna spring for the copper plate.
edit: i spoke too soon theyre no loner accepting orders smh :(
Swietny materiał, to przedłuży zycie grafice.😁🍺
Cool follow up vid. Those plates are nice
I made the jump to buying CoolMyGPU copper plates for my 3090. Doing really well so far.
Buddy you're an innovator. Live the videos
hello and congratulations on the video! really interesting!
i wanted to ask you a question, how thick are the copper thermal pads?
also, is this thickness the same for all types of rtx 3070ti (asus evga zotac etc.. ec..)?
thanks i'm waiting for your answer
Thank you!
ur max temp is my gpu idle temp
You are slowly evolving to the GPU memory plate I made for my waterblock. Juts make a plate that covers the GPU mounting holes and drill them to match in the plate. Cut out any areas that make component contact then you are done. Perfect fit copper plate that won't move and has maximal contact and heat sinking capacity. My Kawpow mining temps with this method are 46C core 50C Mem.
Hi! I just did the mod with the little copper plates from your other video. I am so happy, that i didn't short anything... yet... My memory temp dropped from 90 to 70 :-D Thank you for the tutorial. But do I need to change it the thermal paste every month? Or how long can I use it like this when I am mining? And do I have to live in fear, that there could be a shortage every moment? Because I am a little bit scared now :-D Thanks for the answers
Some people say you should change paste every X months, while others say you never need to. I usually change paste every 6 months just because I can, and it gives me a chance to clean my GPU. If you have modded your GPU correctly, I would not live in fear. But I would also perform a visual inspection every so often to makes sure everything is fine. Also, if your GPU is sitting horizontal, I certainly wouldn't worry about shims moving. They won't.
Thank you for the answer. Putting the card horizontal is a good idea 💡
excellent work💯👍🏻❤️
Keep going We learn from you We wish you all the best🤗💋
Nvidia should consider some limited edition Gpus with Bulit in Vram Copper heatsink...
I tried it once on my powercolor 5700xt and the memory temps got worse. I think it could be that my copper shims were too thin and there might be not enough contact pressure for proper heat transfer. I'll try it again in the future with slightly thicker copper shims. But its such a pain and hassle to mod it that i've been putting it off.
I’ve done thirty 3080 FEs, as they are all defective out of the box. They all perform differently, as the cards are all different. Quality control, what’s that? The difference seems to be the relative height of the VRAM vs the GPU.
In many 3080 FE cards (including the same rev) the GPU doesn’t make strong contact even with 1.37 mm copper, and the GPU temp goes way up , say, from 52 under load to high 60s, or worst cast 75-80. All will involving some degree of hash throttling. A thick wad of chewing gum like pink Thermal Grizzly extreme can bridge the gap without strong contact. But it’s not good for hash rates as they seem to follow core temp, not VRAM temp.
Usually cards with strong GPU contact and weak VRAM contact fare better bcs RAM temp will still be reduced by 10 degrees which it’s not a hash rate problem. There is no way to predict, AFAICT, which cards need what copper thickness. The CoolmyGPU solution seems to be a hybrid copper and 0.5mm pad recommendation, which is an ok way to go. The most predictable result is simply to use 1.5mm (for 3080 FE) Gelid extreme thermal pads. They allow enough give to let the GPU make contact, I give a solid push on the sandwich before tightening up. That will reduce VRAM to 82 to 84 and Thermal Grizzly extreme on the GPU will result in 50 to 62 on the core. It’s easy, fast and more predictable.
Copper is not consistent bcs the FE cards are not consistent. But if you are willing to reopen the card and analyze the paste for contact patterns several times, maybe as many as 10 times, usually, but not always, you will get a better result than a simple high performance repadding.
I recommend repadding cards instead of copper or aluminum (which seems to work better than copper for unknown reasons, maybe the faster heat conduction speed) as simple pads give more predictable squish and often result in a better hash rate (even with a litter higher VRAM temp) because GPU contact is tighter and the core temp drives mining performance.
This comment should be at the top!
You have cool videos, and you are great “narrator” subscribed
3080ti here. Pulling 74c during the summer with an open case while mining, 85c in a closed case. Before in a closed case it would be near 110c
Great mod. My temps dropped 16 degrees. China #1!
just did my 7 x rtx 3080 founders edition, man its the only way. doest go over 70C. mem. amazing!
Not sure if I should do this or just put good pads on, also can you link that new copper plate instead of the old shims in the desc? Wondering about resale value as well. Is thermal grizzly kryonaut extreme ok for the gpu? I keep hearing the term pushout but not sure what that means.
Subscribing now. Thanks for the vids
im planning on doing it on my 3070, even though my temps have never gotten higher than 65 with an OC of 125 core and 1000 on the memory. and all my games being high or max resolution @ 1440. still this makes me incredibly curious, and i have a friend with a CNC machine sooooo im def making a plate lol Another great video my guy, keep it up.
you really do not need to do ths to a 3070. that has regular gddr6 memory. at best, upgrade your thermal pads. that should be way more than enough.
@@Techno4more I mean yes, and no.. obviously I don’t even need to do anything because like I said my thermals are phenomenal. However there’s technical not rlly such a thing as
“more than enough”
When it comes to cooling electronics, especially when the electronics are very expensive and not only will the card last longer with lower thermals, but it gives an added bonus of better performance when it comes to stability and overclocking, even with diminishing returns it’s still simply better in every way than it would be without lower thermals. if it was some crazy expensive cooling product I’d say absolutely not that’s stupid, but for the price it’s literally dumb not to. Obviously as long as you’re confident with your abilities to do such a thing.
@@LikelyLagging personally I wouldn't bother with a 3070. I did watercool all my 3080s tho
Your video that got me to purchase the copper block from CoolMyGPU and I saw a drop from 102°c on my FE RTX 3080ti while playing ready or not down to 64° c on the memory.
Super! Nice soluction
Nice to see you bought some good screwdrivers this time around....
Nice that you did a follow-up.
Great vids. Where do u get the screw driver from?
exact same card and exact same application, 1 month in I was getting close to 100c memory temps so I opened it and one of the copper shims at the bottom left of the card moved down. it wasn't touching anything to short and burn the gpu but that was scary af. switched it with a slightly thicker one and when reassembling the card I screwed the bottom half of the card first and a bit tighter before screwing in the top side. now it's doing fine. 180w, 82mh, 88c memory on %70 fan
SUBBED. you rule dude
This was such a great video because now it works really well now and it was working really bad before but then I watched this and turned around and it was working soooo well so thank you so much because I didn’t know what I was gonna do and it reminds me of the time that my dog was running in circles and I was worried she wasn’t okay so I looked up on the internet what to do and then she stopped going in circles and I was so happy I gave her a treat and then we started playing with her favorite tennis ball she was so happy
Hi Dandy, so underrated channel, excellent content. My first question: Copper size 1,5mm or 1,2 or something. And second, Did you try it on 3080 ti TUF, it would be awesome if u make a test for it, caz that card is so hot even after thermal paddng regularly. Thanks bro.
Thank you! Sadly I don't have a 3080 ti on hand, but the plate size I can tell you is 1.5mm!
I've seen somewhere on the alliexpress the backplate " heatsink " cooling the gpu chip and memory but for the older gtx 1080Ti which is still powerfull gpu tbh. The effect was not so impressive but having 2-4c down is a nice bonus. Not to mention the price for that heatsink, 35$ including shipping.
bruh thanks for the update, im literally sitting here with that card and that copper plate mod about ready to do it myself
My stock gigabyte 3080 mem temp is in the 80s so i dont think this mod is gonna help it in anyway.. but this mod is really great in your case since your card hits 110
Great! Now I don't just want a set of shims... I want a 'Custom Copper Plate'.
What is status of your GPU now ? I want to do it on my GPU... WANT TO KNOW THE LONG TERM RESULTS....
Same, I'd love to know. My 3080 was copper modded for around a year and was perfectly fine, memory temps around 80C but core got a bit hotter. Only recently removed it since I was worried the plate may be a bit thick and put too much pressure on the memory chip solder joints, as had happened for one gpu on a gpu repair channel. After new pads my core temps dropped, confirming my suspicion so I'm happy with just pads for now. Core temps are lower than they were stock and vram still stays below 90C in games. In Furmark it goes to 100C, but nothing else I do ever pushes the vram that hard. And that's still 10C less than stock pads.
And for reference, it's a Zotac 3080 Trinity (takes 2mm pads but the gelid ones I got had to be squished down a lot to get good core contact), the copper plate is exactly 1.6mm thick, I think if I somehow got it machined down to 1.50mm it would be perfect and I would consider reinstalling it maybe. For now I don't want to risk dislodging a vram chip for temperatures that don't really matter.
Good to see a follow up video! Can you tell us which copper plates u used for this card? I assume they would fit my 3080 TUF perfectly.
Dear, excellent video, from Argentina, if it's not too much to ask, could you put the measurements to be able to cut the mod, and what material is it exactly? I just have a similar board that has temperature problems. if you could attach it in a pdf format in the form of a drawing with the exact measurements. It would be of great help to the community, best regards.
Great Great Great video , I have a question please : I do have the Rog strix version of the 3070 Ti, I'm at around 75°, should I change the Asus pads ? can I buy the same copper plate as yours for my card and where please ? on of your link ?
ok its been 1 year.. how is that card..? did the thermal paste dryout..?
I did this to 3 of my GPU's. 2 of them were 3080TI's (FE). What he says in 9:40 mark is absolutely correct Not all GPU and Copper plate will be the same, obviously, but I mean in terms of mm's.
When I did my 3070TI Asus Strix, I didn't apply all that much thermal paste between the copper plate and sub heatsink, but I finished first try and had improved temperature.
When I did the first 3080TI FE, I spent half of my Saturday and about 10 retakes. I couldn't figure out where it wasn't making full contact because every time I took it apart, it was obvious the thermal pastes had made contact with the heatsink. So, I said screw it and put another line of thermal paste on top of the copper plate, put it together, and it worked. The 2nd 3080TI FE took only about 30 minutes with an handsome amount of thermal paste between the copper plate and heatsink. Worked on the first try.
I would say I probably used more than twice the thermal paste between the copper plate and heatsink on the 80TI FE vs 70TI Asus Strix. The amount of thermal paste used on the 80TI FE is more like using thermal pads rather than just a layer to make full contact, like in the 70TI Strix. Same goes for between the memory and copper plate. Instead of just a layer of thermal paste like I did on the Asus, I did a layer then added couple more drips of thermal paste (without spreading it) on top of it for each square. This helps close the gap that you have to make between the copper plate and heatsink. Having one side of the copper plate bear all the thermal paste is a bit dangerous because this is a paste after all, not a pad. The stability of having like 2.5mm thickness of paste to force contact between the copper plate and heatsink is a bit much to ask. Even closing the gap to 2mm thickness of paste, by adding .5mm of paste on the other side of the copper plate (between the mem and copper), is a huge ease of mind.
It's like making a sandwich, you don't want meat to be towards one slice of bread. You'd want the meat to be as centered as possible, so you can have the most flavor combination with the other ingredients.
What thickness was the copper for your Asus Strix 3070ti? I'm looking into doing this mod as my gaming temps are over 90C in some cases. Thanks for any info!
@@ztryfe I got the copper plate from the same place DandyWorks did (actually, it's through his previous videos that I found out about it) from CoolMyGpu. I just checked the page for the 3070TI Copper Plate I ordered, but not seeing any dimension specs. So, to answer your question, I have no idea the thickness of the copper plate I used. You could probably email them for exact spec, but if you see a copper plate that is designed for your GPU (they have a list of compatible and also explicitly states what's not) then you shouldn't have to care about the thickness.
If you're asking because you're planning to order copper PIECES, like how DandyWorks had it in the beginning of this video, then I can't help you there unfortunately.
If you have the 3070TI STRIX, then www.coolmygpu.com/product/ga104/2?cs=true&cst=custom "should" work for you, since I'm not seeing anything that explicitly says not being compatible for Asus 3070TI STRIX. It's definitely on the expensive end vs doing copper pieces, but I'm happy with it and no longer see RED temp numbers on my mining rig.
@@LeeIB_Hup thanks! With shipping it's really expensive for me. I am looking into copper pieces. I did send an email to Cool My GPU asking for confirmation on compatibility. Never got a response :(
@@ztryfe To be honest, if all you’re seeing is 90c while gaming, you shouldn’t be too worried. Obviously, the lower you can keep temps, the better… but if it cost money to do so, you’d have to think if it’s worth the cost.
I only put copper plates on my GPUs that constantly ran above 90C. If you only game with your GPU, then don’t sweat it. Unless you’re seeing frequent gaming performance drop (because of thermal throttling), 90C Gucci. Mining is 24/7, whereas gaming is several hours at best. Occasionally hitting high temps isn’t a problem, but constant high temps (aka mining) will speed up its life span. This is all mem temps, of course. If your core temps are in the 90’s, put a better thermal paste asap
Lastly, if it assures you any, a buddy of mine has been running his mining rigs for couple years now. Couple of them been in the high 90’s like forever. It’s still mining at its expected hash rate. So, don’t stress about the temps. If you notice frame drops or frequent crashes while gaming, NOW is definitely the time to monitor the temps. Otherwise, the only solution to get better performance is just upgrade your GPU. Improving the temps by 20-25% won’t give you the equivalent performance boost. If anything, it’s more about extending the life of your GPU as much as possible. The only exception is if you overclock.
@@LeeIB_Hup core temps hover at 65-70. Mem temp goes to around 90-102 (Guardians of the Galaxy, Ray Tracing, is the worst case scenario 102 after an hour or so) feels a tad overboard. All while gaming, never had throttling thou. I understand the mining workload is much more memory intensive than gaming, but reviews and specs mention it should be more like 80. That's why I'm looking into copper mod, if it makes sense and it's not overly expensive, might try it.
My memory temps gaming on a 3080ti are max 60c mostly from undervolting, and that's without a copper mod. My gpu temps are 53c and hotspot 60c. I also keep my fans at 100%. Just use good quality thermal pads on the front and back of the gpu. Also tighten the four spring screws to the heatsink as tight as possible.
I switched from Stock GPU cooler to AiO cooler, and managed to drop 40 degrees celsius, next i will try to get a new GPU and maybe try the Copper mod out, it looked very promising
Hi! And what if the same thing, but with a water block? can you try it? and what is the thickness of the copper plate?
Thermal grizzly kryonaut extreme is literally the kryonaut but its made to stand -190º for ln2 overclocking, you dont need to spend that much
Why do you need to put kapton tape when thermal grease is not conductive? and is it possible for the copper shims to be removed completely? meaning, the memory chips directly contacting to the sub-heat sink?
Kapton tape is a safety precaution taken to prevent any copper from making contact with components mounted to the PCB. Sometimes, a capacitor or resistor will sit above the plane of the memory chip, and if the copper was touching that component, there is basically a 100% chance that component will blow up. It is possible for the sub-heatsink to make direct contact with the memory chips. This is pretty much unique to this GPU in particular though.
I will literally going to do this...once I have enough money to buy a 3070 ti
Great Video and nice mod. A little bit too much thermal paste if you ask me.
Regards from Germany
Great video! I copper modded my 3070 recently.
Hi what the thickness of the copper ?
@@adrianpoenaru1141 2mm. TBH it's not worth it. on 3080 3090 it would be an advantage.
Nice content where did you buy the copper mod from ??
Back in the day you could buy solid copper heatsinks for a few bucks and they did cool CPU's and northbridges really well (no need for heatpipes or anything like that, in some cases you didn't even need a fan). Those days are long past, unfortunately.
Perhaps we should bring those days back. Nvidia is once again taking the "MORE POWAH" approach to increasing GPU performance, and that doesn't bode well for the longevity of the components (Maybe AIBs will begin to incorporate expensive but reliable GaN mosfets instead?). Maybe I could design something for GPUs...
@@dandyworks It really depends on what kind of NVidia card you are buying and what you are doing with it. Their lower end cards are very efficient for gaming at 1080p, and don't consume alot of power. I have a midrange gaming PC with a Geforce GTX 1650 Super and Ryzen 5 3600 inside an very old (15? years) Antec case. My whole setup is drawing well less than 300 watts under full load and only has one case fan.
Hello where do you found your full cooper mod because I prefer to use that than the 15mmx15mm
Did you reseat the original solution and measured 110°C again? maybe it wasn't mounted well by factory
Good videos, well done, clear, concise. re: "don't do this if you've never replaced thermal pads..." I am sure that is good advice. How can I find someone, a shop or other, to do this for me???
Hello,
Great video! Thanks for sharing. Can you please post the link from where I can order the cooper plates? What thickness do you use for Asus TUF 3070 TI?
I would also be interested in the exact measurements with a caliper. Also the measurements for the newly added copper plate. (and the link to buy).
Hola un abrazo, excelente video, quería preguntarte donde compras la plaqueta que utilizaste en este video, en los enlaces que dejaste no la referenciaste. Gracias
Gracias! La placa es de CoolMyGPU.com 👍
I feel like it would’ve been a better video to do this in six months or a year and then just had some periodic update videos to go over performance and temp in the mean time
Good upgrade😁
How about going next level with the fans? Noctua mods are pretty cool imo.
loved this video
was this recorded before full lhr unlock ?
Yes 👍🏽