1993-1997 Ford Ranger 2.3 Timing Belt Replacement | How to Fix Ford Ranger Timing Belt
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- This 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3 is getting a new timing belt. These motors are non-interference so if your belt brakes like this one did have no fear.
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🛒TOOLS NEEDED:
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▪️ Flex head ratchet: amzn.to/47PZwm7
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➡️I am part of the Amazon affiliate program and get a small commission when purchases are made through the links provided.
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Bro this video is saving my ass, it’s 2022 and shit is so expensive and I don’t have the money to take my only transportation into the shop or get a new car. About to replace this timing belt in about an hour wish me luck and thanks again ❤️
Glad this video is helpful 👍 once you get the crank pulley off you're home free!
You aren't kidding. It was going to cost me $600 to get my belt changed, not including the labor. So I said the heck with it, I'm changing it myself.
@@Joshtheweatherman did you get it done in an hour? Lol. If I had a nickel for everytime I said that.
@@parker2432 I’m sure he meant his starting time was about an hour from posting his comment. Your a tool. That is all.
I don’t have a manual for my 1996 ranger, you helped a lot thanks! We need more Ford ranger videos For the DIY’s. Ford is the most tedious engineering I’ve ever faced but Im a sucker for pain.
This video helped a lot. I just got the new belt on and I'm putting everything back together. There were a lot of great tips here. Thanks.
Awesome! Glad this video was helpful 👍
Very helpful! I was able to easily quote my customer by watching your video and the tips were very helpful, thank you so much!
Very good video. You're helping a lot of people and should be commended (and compensated) !!!
I just the same thing t put the work in❤😅
Hey man. I just wanted to drop by and let you know I used your video start to finish to do a timing belt on a Mazda B2500. I had never done a timing belt before so it was a bigger task than I am used to, but thanks to your video I now have a running truck for the first time since I bought it. Thank you!
Awesome! Glad this was helpful 🙂
Usin it right now for a b2300 that I also bought clapped.
Came here. About to do this job. I wrote out all the steps in order from haynes manual. Only thing I was looking for is the actual tools I need. I like to get them all together. I see you said what they are in the video, but not in the description. 10mm for the Fan/shroud, 3/8 rachet for the belt tensioner, 22mm for the crankshaft pulley and a 13mm socket. Do you know what other tools you used? I searched the captions of everything else and looks like 10mm, 13mm, 8mm, 22mm, pry bar, 3/8 ratchet, belt tension tool from ford.
8mm bolts for the outer timing cover.
Robert
Thank you. I was able to do this job on my 97 Ranger thanks to you. The world needs more people like you. Seems like I know you. (w00 12/1 pp20-23)
After watching this I am so glad my Ranger has a chain!
Glad I watched, more of a review, done this on Pintos and Mustang IIs, a little different because of the lower crank pulley removal, thanks, on my way right now to do one.
One of the most complicated things for me to unbolt was the AC / power steering support bracket. But you took it off with absolutely no video on it at all.
Two bolts at the top of the fan shroud. Pick it up just a little and slide it to the engine. Disconnect radiator hoses. Catch the fluid. Two bolts at top of radiator. Lift up some. Jiggle a little. It's out and out of the way. Reach down and Remove the fan shroud. Five minutes max. Now remove the fan. Last tip. Loosen the bolts on the crank pulley before you loosen the Serpentine belt. Easy peasy.
Give us a video, we like easy peasy.
Crankshaft pulley bolts. Serpentine belt tight. Chalked the rear tires. Manual transmission in 1st gear. I put a wrench on the bolts. Pulled till the vehicle is against the chalks. And bolts loosen pretty easy.
Thanks for the video , but it would probably help if you would have shown how you got those marks to line up.
Good video, about to do this but scared about the pulley thing. Ive been a shade tree DIYer for about 15 years and worried about that.
The good news is it's a non interference motor so if you don't get it lined up exactly you can try again without hurting anything.
Awesome timing belt in less than 30 minutes.
How did you get your timing belt cover off without removing that stuff
Thank you very helpful
No need to remove the radiator to change out the timing belt. Great video. Thanks.
You're right, the only reason this got removed was so my tooling would fit. If I had a better way of holding the crank while removing the bolt then the radiator would have stayed in. It's nice these radiators are super easy to remove though.
Did you not hear what he said in the video?
Please, what is the direction to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt?
Counter clockwise 👍
thank you very much, resolved
only replaced once in the 96, no worries
Do most people juat use the impact again to tighten the cam pully bolt? Without this video Id be screwed
youcan ut a long breaker bar under right frame horn bump engine crank bolt is loose
When you put the tensioner pulley back on did you need to silicone the 13mm and 17mm bolt? Are they in water jackets?
Thank-you for this tutorial
How is the 22 mm socket not pressing up against the balancer??
I spent days trying to get that damn thing off how did you get the claw on their pulled that on while putting the socket on while tightening that thing??
Lol: re: crank pulley torque: “so I’ll let you guys decide how you wanna do THAT!” Lol great video in general, but that torque process was what I came for.
Lol, I suppose I was ready to go home by that point. The manual says with the serpentine belt installed, put the vehicle in park (automatic) or reverse (manual) chock the wheels and torque the bolt. Hope that helps. If you have any other questions feel free to ask👍 Thanks for watching!
Best video for this job ty
Thanks Caleb 👍
Great video. Can I ask what you charged for this repair?
Hey thanks. This is around a 4hr job so depending on the shop's hourly rate plus parts it could run anywhere from $400-$800. The manual has you evacuate the a/c and remove the compressor. But I didn't need to on this one. A shop may still charge for that service because the manual suggests it. That would be their call. Hope that's helpful
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive iokm
Thank you sir. I’m about to tackle this on my 97 ranger. God what a pain in the ass these vehicles
Bro my ranger was running in the morning one day. I parked it for about an hour at home and went to turn it on for a quick trip and shit didnt wanna start. Its been two days and still nothing. Idk exactly what the problem is other than timing. It was running just fine
@@andrewrodriguez8492 try and bridge the 2 bolts on the starter. In the engine bay right hand side out tuck in nutral the tank screw driver and bridge the 2 bolts on the solenoid
@@dennisgriffith3741 it just came out the shop 4 days ago for clutch work. New slave, master cylinder, clutch and starter.
@@dennisgriffith3741 plus rear main seal and some oil sending unit sensor
@@dennisgriffith3741 it cranks but doesnt start
Mine has a phillips head screw in the timing cover and i cant seem to break it loose, dont want to strip the bolt out or destroy my condenser trying to use an impact screwdriver. Any suggestions?
list of tools? link to the guide?
I think the same happened to me. 93 ranger and I just replaced the starter battery and alternator. Starter fluid didn't work. I guess it must be the timing chain? Any tips to a diagnosis?
You should be able to pull a couple bolts from the timing cover and peek inside to see the belt. Also when you try to start it it will sound like there's no compression.
my 1994 don't have marker for oil pump?
I have a 1999 with a 2.5l do i have to remove the water pump
I guess I should consider myself lucky cuz the ranger i have doesn’t have power steering or ac lol….its all open…97 single cab 2wd with the 4 cylinder….hot as hell to drive right now….and nothing sucks more then having to drive in the interstate in the afternoons on a 100 degree day with the windows down…
@@w8what575 That does make this job easier for sure! I lost AC driving through Nevada once. I was squirting myself with my water bottle to stay cool 😂
Really. Good video thank you question how many miles was on the truck went work on it
Thanks Luis! I'm not sure of the miles, I want to say around 160k. The owner has owned the truck for a long time and only drives short distances. Age can have a toll on these parts just like mileage so if it's been like 10 years since the last timing belt but only 30k miles I still think it's a good idea to change it. Just to be safe 👍
How would you be sure its still tdc when you pull the crank pulley nvm
Great video bro.
Although these may be non interference from factory. Once altered for a racing application. They're no longer non interference. I know this from experience. But definitely a good "how to video" for a stock application
great video and all but you didn't exactly show how to torque the belt in, didn't see any way of putting a torque wrench on there to get your 30 lb
Thanks 🙏 this video really helped me out. Great Quality
Hey David, thanks. Glad it was helpful 👍
what if there are no timing marks on the camshaft gear or oil pump gear?
@@briandowdy6692 The only way to properly time the engine is with timing marks. One tooth in either direction can make a big difference in performance. Were the timing marks rubbed off or rusted over?
Great video thanks I have a 1996 ford ranger 2.3 and I need to replace the front crankshaft seal , and I have no idea how do it , but I think I need to remove the timing belt because is behind, do you have any suggestions to do that ? I will be grateful
Yes, you need to remove the timing belt and the front timing crankshaft sprocket. The seal is right behind it.
Where's a good place to get a replacement fan? Mines looking really old
Is it weird to have the truck leaking a lot of oil after this replacement? Any seals that could have been compromised? A shop did it along with the lifters and now the truck is leaking a lot of oil.
To replace the lifters the valve cover and cam need to be removed. If you're suddenly seeing an oil leak I would check around the valve cover and the front cam seal.
I just put a timing belt on my Ranger in the exact procedure that you just did but now I have a knocking sound coming from my cam.
Hmm 🤔. Does it sound like something is hitting the upper timing cover?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I tore it back down second-guessing myself couldn't find anything wrong everything was in time. I wonder could it have been the new crank sensor I put in? After it warmed up to operating temperature the sound was gone. Will the ECM have to adjust for the new crank sensor?
@@Surroundedbyevil368 Even if it needed to adjust to the new crank sensor it shouldn't make any noise. If it goes away after it's been running for a while and it sounds like it's coming from the cam it's possible that it could be a hydraulic lifter.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive yes I considered a lifter but as I listened and follow the noise the noise sounded more like it was coming from the oil pan. Very strange I'll know more tomorrow when the engine is cold and start it again thank you for your reply. Hope there's no noise on a cold start.
And I would like to add there was no noise whatsoever very sound tight engine before the work just lots of miles and no maintenance bought the truck at an auction and drove it home no issues other than it had no breaks.
Much easier on non air compressor truck.
Mine oil pump pulley has a mark but the actual backside right behind it doesn’t have a mark what do I do?
Hmm 🤔 that's a good question. The camshaft position sensor is mounted to the oil pump and lets the engine computer know when cylinder one reaches the end of its compression stroke. So lining it up is important for injector and spark timing. If it's off by one tooth it won't run right, you may get a check engine light and you'll need to pull it apart and try again. You can put it in where you think it should go based on this video, put the belt on and mark the backing plate. Put the crank pulley on and run it without the timing cover (just long enough to know if it's right). If it doesn't run right readjust the pump pulley to the left or right of the mark you made and try again. Do this until you get it right. It's a sucky way to do it but I can't think of anything else off hand.
This is something I’ll be having to do soon… would you be able to email me the service guide you’re following for that? Or where can I find it?
Hey Zeek, unfortunately I can't share documents since they are copyrighted. A good place for information is "All data diy". You pay per vehicle for a one year subscription. I think if you're only working on one or two vehicles it's a pretty good deal.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks for that info! I actually went ahead and purchased the Haynes manual and it helps a ton
@@zeekdornier2946 Nice 👍 If you have any questions during the repair feel free to comment.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive for sure, thanks!
What’s the trick for turning the cam shaft timing pulley to line up the triangle marks?
No trick, just turn it by the cam bolt. It shouldn't be hard to move. You may even be able to do it by hand?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive is that the same thing for rotating the crank if it's off a tooth? Thanks in advance
@@js6729 yep it's the same. The crank will be a little harder to rotate though. It's ok to turn the crank counter clockwise a little bit. But if it needs to move a lot then rotating it clockwise is preferred.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive cool thank you! And thanks for the quick reply.
Bonsoir chers amis de ford ranger.j'ai un ford R.xlt gasoline année1996.
Mon mecanicien me dit qu'il faut changer les lifter valves car le moteur est en faiblesse.
Commen faire s.v.p ?
La culasse devrait être retirée pour remplacer les soupapes. c'est un gros travail. si le moteur est faible, je suppose que les soupapes ne sont pas étanches et que vous perdez de la compression. Est-ce correct? désolé parfois Google translate n'est pas le meilleur.
Why didn't you just put the truck in 5th gear and use a breaker bar for the crank bolt
Timing belt engines should have never existed outside of race tracks, but since they do every one of them should have had a big sticker on the cover stating "Replace this expensive PITA every 50,000 miles".
You usually get 150k to 200k miles and 20 years out of a gates belt rather belts then chain way easier less shit to get worn
Wait until it breaks, same amount of work. My wife’ s truck odometer has gone around 3 times (300k+) , now i’m replacing the timing belt. Manual transmission 2 years ago, clutch last year, timing belt now. Would a chain have lasted longer? I suspect the tensioner is the culprit in most cases.
Timing belt on an interference engine was the worst idea ever. If it snaps on this motor, it’s a tow+$50 belt.
If you had a helper and a good clutch you could’ve held it and broke it loose