MasterTemp Heater Fires for 5-10 sec 3x and shuts off Fix / Repair
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- If your MasterTemp pool heater only turns on for 5-10 seconds heres a quick simple fix, we hope this is helpful.
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I just used you video to fix my heater that had the same issue you described. You just saved me a 4-$500 dollar service charge. Ni$e!
Wow, this is exactly what has happened. Great video. Easy to understand.
This is EXACTLY my problem. Heater turns off after a few seconds. I did notice some correlation with humidity (eg after a big rain). Looking forward to trying this out!
I have watched several other videos from multiple folks and you gave me the correct tips to fix my unit. Thank you Sir.
Thank you so much Sir. My heather is working now. God bless.
Just the exact video I was looking for !! Thanks
My heater does something similar. When air temps are cooler in the morning, early Spring and early Fall, or heavy rain mid summer, the heater tries to fire up, maybe 1 sec to 10 seconds and shuts down. If I switch off the breaker and switch back on I have better luck of it firing back on. Works perfect during June to August. Except for heavy rain storms.
Great video that correctly identified my problem.
After tons of rain our heater turns off after about 5 seconds then restarts after about 20 for ever. I'm going to try this. Thanks very much!
Probably a dumb question, but what exactly is the wire called to "jump" it? I get the alligator clips but not the first one used, anyone know where i can get one?
Thank you! That fixed me right up!!!!!
You can also check the LED's on the back of the circuit board to pinpoint which switch has failed instead of replacing both.
How long do LED's remain lit? Do you have to check while running the heater? ie Remove the lid to see the circuit board while failing? Or do the lights remain lit even when the heater not running but powered up? Thanks.
@@arechj Depending on which switch has failed the lights will remain illuminated after the heater stops running. But it is best to have the lid removed and to be looking at the back of the circuit board when the problem occurs.
@@harwoodhomies Thanks @harwoodhomies - I appreciate your help!
Thank you
Great Content and delivery! Thank you so much!!!
Is water supposed to come gushing out when you remove the AGS switch?
That was very very helpful, thank you so much)!👍
super helpful im working on a Max e therm right now. its doing the same thing comes on and fires will actually heat for awhile before service heater light comes on. I changed the air flow switch and it's still happening. I keep getting AFS light on. any help would be great thanks
Our system is new, and is doing what you described. Should we get an error code such as AGS or HLS? We do not get any error code, it just has a light under "service heater." Thank you
thanks great video
Also you can watch the indicator light for asg
Seems much like my problem, but in my situation the heater comes on, fires up (very hot exhaust) for a few seconds, then off. Could not determine if that is what is being described here? At any rate, yes very educational run-thru. I would add that this video is advanced-level DIY bordering on (for me anyway) time-to-call-a-pro.
What ended up being your problem-/fix. I have that now
Thanks for the video. Question for ya… I have a mastertemp 400. when you hold down the heater off button until it displays program settings AD1 or AD0 and SF1 or SF0 … what do those settings do?
Thanks Craig ✊🇺🇸🏝
Hey brother I have Pentair Master Temp giving an AGS error. I refer a company and they said is the board after troubleshooting and replacing the ags. Still waiting for them lol Homeowner brought a tech amd he says is the ThermoReg, AGS and igniter. I just want to pass it thru you because its a little bit confusing the igniter part if is igniting
Mine was short cycling. Over and over no code.
I check flame status in main menu. It was weak.
I added a ground wire under the flame holder. Solved my problem.
Very helpful! Thank you 😊
Glad it was helpful!
If there was water getting in there before, won't it find its way back there?
What are the part numbers of the two switches?
Would you say it's the same problem if the unit stays on for 1 to 15 minutes and then shuts off? I've already replaced the AGS and hls. Could this be bad again?
My issue is similar. I have a pentair heater. It short cycles and then errors out BUT if I later reenable it manually, it lights and stays lit. Even weirder is, when the pool gets to the desired temp, the system is able to put it in standby and when it cools down, it fires up again without issue. Still, the next morning when the system starts, it always tries and fails to light.
What do you mean by jumping the AGS and high limit reader? What/how exactly are you doing?
those two sensors work like a automatic on off switch. Normally on when system working correctly. They switch off automatically when they sense a water temp of around ``140 degrees, the ags shuts the gas valve off by switching the electricity off which causes the gas valve to close.
What he did was to jump the wires together so the control system would think that the system was normal, and the ags circuit would keep the gas valve open, only for test purposes. If there were a problem with the actual system, you would not leave these jumpers in place after test because they would cause the heater to self destruct.
Perfect!
Heater firing, stop and start 3x. Red AGS sensor on CPU & replaced AGS. Ran fine for two days then stopped firing. Came back on site to find no display codes, no red LEDs. Tested igniter and it read 92 ohms. Pentair tech said max reading is 70 ohms. Looked down & noticed water leak under manifold. Removed bottom bolt of manifold and water poured out. Pin-hole leak in exchanger most likely. If I had tested igniter last week (even as heater ran fine). I wonder what that ohm teading would have been? Guessing the tub was filling with water last week but was not covering igniter and that faulty AGS was all I could diagnose. Tricky stuff. Will always check the manifold for water from here on in.
Tem que sempre olhar tudo.
If you still have leaking heater coils and a combustion chamber full of water, you might find my video informative:
ua-cam.com/video/60icKjdC_oE/v-deo.html
I’m getting the same thing. Water is dripping off the bottom left bolt. I’m guessing I have a bad heat exchanger.
Hi! Ours it tripping the breaker when you’re saying yours shots off. Any ideas?
Can you run the heater with the jumpers on it ?
Do not run the heater with jumpers on it permanently. Only do it for testing purposes. Jumpers across AGS, HLS and AFS will trick the control board into thinking that everything is fine with each component, but each component is in place for your safety. Imagine jumpering your High Limit Switch permanently heating beyond scalding temperatures. You could burn up your heater, your plumbing, or worse, scald your family.
Will the heater give out a code. ? Can u test for O.L
Where are you located
Dude, how did you diagnose the problem? How did you know its was water getting in? Wheres that video?
The heat exchanger naturally condenses water from the air
Alguien sabe cuanto gas consume por hora el equipo?
Olá, Qual éo nome é marca desse teu manômetro de medir a pressão do gás?
I have a brand new mastertemp 125 , never used , it won't ignite , how much pressure does it take , my propane line has a 10 pound regulator on it ?
Did you happen to get yours working? Mines doing the same thing. Just set it up today
I went to a propane company and had the guy set me up with the correct psi regulator , that was my problem. You need a low psi regulator and a minimum 100 pound bottle
@@scottweedin7570 right on! I got mine going finally. I ordered the corded 120v but they sent a non corded one which is set to 240v. So swapped the 12 pin to 120v and instantly started working. I'm trying a 100lb tank this year and if I go through to much propane I'll be upgrading to a 400lb. Propane company rents them for $100 a year.
@@coppertone1993 what state do you live in where they only charge 100 bucks a year to rent them ?
Is thêre a reset button on this model.
Only if you installed a switch to the power supply. Or flip the switch on your fuse box
My unit does the on off cycle. Even with the wiring jumped out. However in my case each time it shuts off the pump shakes a bit and makes clanking noises like something metal is inside. Any thoughts? Ty
you have a mastertemp/max-e-therm heater? based on what youre saying it sounds like you may have a problem with the water getting too hot in the manifold. water can steam and boil from the excessive heat and cause the knocking sounds. it can trip your high limit sensor and cause the heater to cycle like youre describing. theres several problems that could cause your symptoms but the most common in my experience [assuming everything else in your filter system is functioning properly and your water flow is sufficient for the heater to operate properly] is a stuck thermal regulator.
@@didickcheeseburger I appreciate the reply. You were spot on. From the time I wrote this, I fully repaired it myself. It is exactly what you described. The problem began because last year I had a hard time maintaining proper chemical balance in a lot of blue lime scale developed. I believe that is why the thermal regulator got stuck open. I was getting a lot of blue green metallic looking chips all at the bottom of my pool that look like they flaked off of my manifold. I have since put a salt chlorinator on the pool in life could not be better for my heater. You sir definitely know your stuff. Thank you.
@@danielnigra1922 no problem. also with a heater be extra careful to keep your chemistry properly balanced including ph balance, alkalinity and calcium hardness. that same blue scaling you describe builds up in your heat exchanger as well and can cause the flame to be less effective at transferring heat to the water running through the heat exchanger which will cause extra heat to escape out of the exhaust. theres also a sensor in there that if your exhaust temps rise too high it will cause your heater to quit working. you mentioned you have a salt generator system and they typically will cause your ph to run high so its good to keep something like muriatic acid around to combat that. salt pools and heater dont play nice together. its manageable but you have to stay on top of your chemistry
@@didickcheeseburger Very True about the PH,. it is always high, and i am always adjusting. I have never been better at keeping my pool balanced since adding the salt system. It was not looking good in the beginning of the year when i was having all those problems. I thought for sure i ruined the heater. But thanks to you tube, your wisdom, and my own ingenuity, i got it going!! I have a drawer full of replacements limits and sensors:) just in case
Jump the limit switches, run for 10 seconds, and call it fixed?
Mystarite turns on, the circuit board says 128 then r13, then shuts off. Nothing ignites and the process takes about 8 secs. Circuit board doesnt display any leds showing errors of individual parts. Circuit board looks brand new and is 8 years old. Only used it 3 times in 8 years. Unit doesnt stay onlong enough to show any discernable issues. No noise or anything. Filter is not an issue. Water flow is fine! Scrstching my head becsuse i hope that this 500 dollar board THATSBEEN COMPLETELY COVERED AND PROTECTED FROM OUTSIDE ELEMENTS ISNT somehow damaged and in need of replacement. One last thing, button on back of circuit board switches btween pool on and spa on as its suppose too, however, adter pushing the up or down buttons, nothing chsnges on view matrix. Also,i dont hear the relay on the board clicking when starting unit.. agsin, upon starting unit, all lights come on, the unit then reads 128, r13 then shuts down. NO HEATING OR GAS FLOWING OCCURS. ANY THOUGHTS??
Yes, you need a pool technician that knows what he is doing
Menometer????? Who has that
Bad design by Pentair.