_You do a better explanation of this than anyone else I’ve seen on UA-cam because you’re doing a deep dive into the file formats and a lot of people that think they know anything have no idea that the pro raw file is for specifically editing purposes, thank you for this_
I have made similar experiences in using ProRAW files. While ProRAW tends to look smeary on very small details, it overall gives me the best editability compared to JPEG and HEIC. The biggest flaw of the compressed formats is the lack of choice. I would like to choose the amount of compression. That’s the second biggest cause of noise after post processing in my experience and makes the iPhone Pro a must for me.
It would be nice if Apple opened up the sensor to third party apps, allowing us to shoot pure raws. At the moment we only get 12mp RAWs from the 48mp sensor. I doubt that they will however
Great summary, would love to hear your thoughts and see a comparison using the new JPG XL formats in the 16 Pro. Im Currently using 13 Pro. debating if I should upgrade to 16 pro. Hesitant to give up the 3x optical lens. But considering an add on lens like Reeflex 2x to use on the 48MP lens.
Thanks for watching. To be honest I have no plans to get an iPhone 16 Pro at the moment. I kind of only upgrade every 3-4 years. However if the JPG XL format does become more mainstream, I will certainly take a look at it.
Super presentation. I have one question: since the jpg and heic files do not have the same characteristics as the raw files, why apply the same edits? It seems to me that they should be edited based on their individual characteristics and not all get the same edits. Keep up the good work.
The idea to edit the HEIC and JPEG with the ProRaw settings was to show that the much larger file size really is worth it if you want to do serious editing in post production. To show that I felt it was right to apply the same settings to all three file types
Thanks for the comparison. Going to play with it in a couple of weeks as well. But I got to ask: Any chance you remember the name or even the link of this camera lens protection you have on your phone… I can only find these with extra transparent plastic over the lens itself… don’t want that. Yours seem to not have this. As it should be. Protection because of higher edges but no visual distortion because of cheap plastic over the optics…
Hi, the case is a Neewer case designed to allow you attach 17mm lenses or via an clip on adapter, a 67mm filter such as a VND. I am very pleased with it in general although quite a lof of dirt can build up in the gaps between the lenses. I think this is the Amazon link to it. www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Protective-Backplate-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B0D1KJCMBR
Maybe your computer processor is not carrying the required codes and software. Do you not have a dedicated photo program, adobe or any one of several programs, can’t see windows 10 has anything to do with it.
Is the jpeg/heif Max the same as the normal jpeg/heif or is it better? And does the jpeg/heif max also have that over sharpening or is it more like the pro raw max? And would you recommend it or not?
It’s slightly better in that it’s less compressed however it will still have the baked in sharpness, contrast and white balance. Its ok if you want straight out of the camera shots without editing
For jpeg and heic, you use any of iPhones "photographic styles" or you keep it on "neutral"? In generell, if you use "photographic styles" wich one would you recommend?
I didn't use any of the inbuilt styles for this test, preferring to use the base JPEGs and HEICs. TBH I never use any type of style so I am not really able to recommend one
I saw at 16:01 that you enabled exposure control in the upper left corner. I just went into settings and figured out how to turn that on. What is the difference between tapping that exposure control and a long touch on the screen which brings up the yellow exposure box. When I then move my finger up and down on the screen, it changes the brightness, but doesn't change the exposure compensation in the upper left corner, which is strange. How do I best work with these two exposure controls? Is there a way to quickly re-set the exposure compensation to 0? You showed a bar graph of image size and showed the ProRaw at 75 mb. Mine are usually around 16MB, unless I shoot with the 24mm equiv (15 Pro) which are around 24 MB
thank u for u revewing! Someone said, that 48 mp is it just Apple marketing , and just take more volume of space , it doesnt matter to upgrade from 13 pro max to 16 pro max, what is your opinion on that?
Thanks. Yes, the 24mm focal length of the standard lens does put out a 48mp RAW. The resolution is that of a 48mp file. However the RAWs do still contain computational photography so they are not as editable as RAW from a mirrorless or DSLR. I went from iPhone 11 Pro to 15 Pro and there was a significant difference. I honestly don't know how much difference you will see from 13-16 in stills but in video you would definitely see a big improvement.
There is no such thing as "pure raw". Just look at the files sizes of your raw files (doesn't matter what camera you use). If they were "pure raw" data from the sensor, they would all be the same. But they are not. You can also take one picture of a complicated structure (like grass) and a simple one (like the sky), and you will notice that the latter is significantly smaller.
There are many reasons RAW files can be different sizes. I use term pure raw to differentiate, full fat raws from mirrorless or DSLR cameras from Apple ProRaw which uses data from stacked images and computational elements to process it. Larger cameras do not do this
I am surprised you didn't mention the ProRAW completely smeared and erased the brick lines/details in the buildings, whereas the HEIC keeps it (in your underexposed image). ProRAW is useless in my opinion, the amount of smearing is not acceptable. Much rather have noise than complete loss of high frequency details. Really the detail retrieval on these smartphones is only good when you let them do their AI things and output a HEIC/JPG.
_You do a better explanation of this than anyone else I’ve seen on UA-cam because you’re doing a deep dive into the file formats and a lot of people that think they know anything have no idea that the pro raw file is for specifically editing purposes, thank you for this_
Thank you so much. I try to apply real world scenarios to my deep dives, not just a studio and some stats
Excellent video, it answered all my questions, very good content!
I have made similar experiences in using ProRAW files. While ProRAW tends to look smeary on very small details, it overall gives me the best editability compared to JPEG and HEIC. The biggest flaw of the compressed formats is the lack of choice. I would like to choose the amount of compression. That’s the second biggest cause of noise after post processing in my experience and makes the iPhone Pro a must for me.
It would be nice if Apple opened up the sensor to third party apps, allowing us to shoot pure raws. At the moment we only get 12mp RAWs from the 48mp sensor. I doubt that they will however
Useful and to the point. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
thanks for perfect video
A pleasure to watch. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
great video, thank you! have a great day
Thank you! You too!
Great summary, would love to hear your thoughts and see a comparison using the new JPG XL formats in the 16 Pro. Im Currently using 13 Pro. debating if I should upgrade to 16 pro. Hesitant to give up the 3x optical lens. But considering an add on lens like Reeflex 2x to use on the 48MP lens.
Thanks for watching. To be honest I have no plans to get an iPhone 16 Pro at the moment. I kind of only upgrade every 3-4 years. However if the JPG XL format does become more mainstream, I will certainly take a look at it.
@@JasonRowPhotography Same here; might wait another year and. Hopefully they will release 48 MP for the tele lens. Way overdue!
Super presentation. I have one question: since the jpg and heic files do not have the same characteristics as the raw files, why apply the same edits? It seems to me that they should be edited based on their individual characteristics and not all get the same edits. Keep up the good work.
The idea to edit the HEIC and JPEG with the ProRaw settings was to show that the much larger file size really is worth it if you want to do serious editing in post production. To show that I felt it was right to apply the same settings to all three file types
@@JasonRowPhotography Thanks. I appreciate your response and understand your process. I look forward to seeing your future posts.
Thanks for the comparison. Going to play with it in a couple of weeks as well.
But I got to ask: Any chance you remember the name or even the link of this camera lens protection you have on your phone… I can only find these with extra transparent plastic over the lens itself… don’t want that. Yours seem to not have this. As it should be. Protection because of higher edges but no visual distortion because of cheap plastic over the optics…
Hi, the case is a Neewer case designed to allow you attach 17mm lenses or via an clip on adapter, a 67mm filter such as a VND. I am very pleased with it in general although quite a lof of dirt can build up in the gaps between the lenses. I think this is the Amazon link to it. www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Protective-Backplate-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B0D1KJCMBR
One simple question which gives best photos HEIF max or PRO RAW max ??
If you want images straight out of the camera good, then HEIF is the way to go. However, if you want to edit and manipulate the images, use ProRaw
@@JasonRowPhotography one more question which gives the best photos - High Efficiency or Most compatible
Problem I find with Apple dng files is that they crash my Windows 10 file explorer every time it comes across them.
I have not heard of that before
Maybe your computer processor is not carrying the required codes and software. Do you not have a dedicated photo program, adobe or any one of several programs, can’t see windows 10 has anything to do with it.
Is the jpeg/heif Max the same as the normal jpeg/heif or is it better? And does the jpeg/heif max also have that over sharpening or is it more like the pro raw max? And would you recommend it or not?
It’s slightly better in that it’s less compressed however it will still have the baked in sharpness, contrast and white balance. Its ok if you want straight out of the camera shots without editing
For jpeg and heic, you use any of iPhones "photographic styles" or you keep it on "neutral"?
In generell, if you use "photographic styles" wich one would you recommend?
I didn't use any of the inbuilt styles for this test, preferring to use the base JPEGs and HEICs. TBH I never use any type of style so I am not really able to recommend one
i uses HEIC
It’s a good file format
I saw at 16:01 that you enabled exposure control in the upper left corner. I just went into settings and figured out how to turn that on. What is the difference between tapping that exposure control and a long touch on the screen which brings up the yellow exposure box. When I then move my finger up and down on the screen, it changes the brightness, but doesn't change the exposure compensation in the upper left corner, which is strange. How do I best work with these two exposure controls? Is there a way to quickly re-set the exposure compensation to 0?
You showed a bar graph of image size and showed the ProRaw at 75 mb. Mine are usually around 16MB, unless I shoot with the 24mm equiv (15 Pro) which are around 24 MB
thank u for u revewing! Someone said, that 48 mp is it just Apple marketing , and just take more volume of space , it doesnt matter to upgrade from 13 pro max to 16 pro max, what is your opinion on that?
Thanks. Yes, the 24mm focal length of the standard lens does put out a 48mp RAW. The resolution is that of a 48mp file. However the RAWs do still contain computational photography so they are not as editable as RAW from a mirrorless or DSLR.
I went from iPhone 11 Pro to 15 Pro and there was a significant difference. I honestly don't know how much difference you will see from 13-16 in stills but in video you would definitely see a big improvement.
@@JasonRowPhotography thank you 🫂
There is no such thing as "pure raw". Just look at the files sizes of your raw files (doesn't matter what camera you use). If they were "pure raw" data from the sensor, they would all be the same. But they are not. You can also take one picture of a complicated structure (like grass) and a simple one (like the sky), and you will notice that the latter is significantly smaller.
There are many reasons RAW files can be different sizes. I use term pure raw to differentiate, full fat raws from mirrorless or DSLR cameras from Apple ProRaw which uses data from stacked images and computational elements to process it. Larger cameras do not do this
I am surprised you didn't mention the ProRAW completely smeared and erased the brick lines/details in the buildings, whereas the HEIC keeps it (in your underexposed image). ProRAW is useless in my opinion, the amount of smearing is not acceptable. Much rather have noise than complete loss of high frequency details.
Really the detail retrieval on these smartphones is only good when you let them do their AI things and output a HEIC/JPG.