Hope everyone is having a wonderful holiday season!! There's a lot of information packed into this video, quite a bit of preparation and fact-checking went into this, and I know it's a massive amount to consume. I learned an immense amount over the two days I spent at their facility learning about the testing, and I believe this video captures what I saw very well for only being a 20-minute video. It was fascinating learning about how much testing goes on that we rarely hear about, and it was super cool to see the viscosity and wear metals analysis with time over the 20k mile drain intervals (as demonstrated towards the end of the video). It's a long video, but I'm quite proud of how it turned out, and I appreciate those of you who'll take the time to watch from start to finish - really tells the whole story! Thank you all and Happy New Year, let's have an amazing 2018!! instagram.com/engineeringexplained/
Well i dont know if it does what it claims but i use this oil in my small engines since they ever get changed more then once a year. Seems to run clean and even start well in colder weather.
I run Amsoil full synthetic diesel 15-40 in my 03 duramax lb7 and change the oil every 25,000 - 30,000 miles. It's winter now here in Maine and just above 0 degrees F. My engine has 280k and still running strong. Ill be pulling it out for head gaskets and injectors at 500k and am very curious to see how my bearings look. Your videos have helped me with mechanical understanding more then any other source of information. Thankyou and have a great new year!
such as what? are you expecting them to use engineering terms in their marketing materials? Thats not a good idea because consumers dont know what they mean
The truth is that most people are honest and engineering drives marketing, and vice versa. If your goal is to make money then being sued constantly or having a poor reputation means will not be in business for long.
100% agreed . In this day and age unfortunately marketing takes priority and engineering takes the back seat . Its very common across many industries today .
This is the kind of video that just proves that you can get waaaaay better quality content on youtube than on television. Very very very well done. Thank's a lot!
Im not an oil change enthusiast. Im a bypass depth filter enthusiast. Before synthetic oil I changed the bypass filter every 2.000 miles and added a quart of Delo. With synthetic oil I do it every 6.000. That works for me. With Mobil 1 with 250.000 miles with no oil drains and a depth bypass filter change every 12.000 miles I mentioned it on UA-cam. A Caterpillar lab manager sent me a sample kit. He said the oil looks good for that many miles but suggested a 6.000 miles Frantz filter change every 6.000 miles instead of every 12.000. The Subaru didnt need oil added between filter changes. Both head gaskets started leaking oil at somewhere over 250.000 miles. Yes Mobil 1 will last 20.000 miles. Better if you keep it clean. Im using Walmart synthetic and a Australian Jackmaster Classic bypass filter in the Pontiac Torrent.
A friend of mine had a 1972 Plymouth Duster. He put over 100K miles on it and NEVER changed oil. At that time I figured he was crazy. I would never do that, but it was done. Now....was the engine pretty much spent after that? We have no idea, the car was sold.
Back in the 60s we serviced telephone company trucks. We didn't change the oil just the filter. They knew the engine would be a mess when they traded it off. They knew if the engine was clean it wouldn't be worth any more. Bean counters at work.
A good motor oil will last as long as you keep it Clean and don't over heat it. Took me 20 years to put 250 K miles on my 84 Subaru 1800 with no oil drains using a toilet paper filter and Mobil 1 15-50 racing oil. The Nissan Altima probably couldn't handle 15-50. Had to put the Motor Guards for the engine and transmission between the grill and radiator. Have to remove the grill to change the toilet paper. The Altima has Pennzoil Platinum in it.
it's quite interesting that 5w40 isn't mentioned. i guess you can't do that kind of stuff to an oil with such big viscosity difference. regardless, mobil1 is very good oil (albeit a little pricey).
I had my doubts about this product when it was first introduced. The fact that they (Mobile 1) were so open & willing to show the extensive testing criteria really has helped alleviate my concerns. Thanks for the Info, Sir!!
Nobody does the nerdy in-depth coverage better than you. Nobody. As a bonus, you're actually energetic and entertaining, which is greatly appreciated. I love these in-depth videos. Happy holidays to you.
It's normal to be sceptic about it, especially when the risks are sludge blocking ever so small oil paths, lack of proper lubrication and cooling of downsized engines with small sumps... My car has a maintenance interval of 30k km (18k mi), I've changed it every 10k km (6k mi) since new, which will happen for the 5th time soon. I do plan on ordering an analysis on the oil at 60k km to see if I can switch to 15k km (9k mi) intervals, but I simply won't risk doubling that in an engine that only holds 3litres of oil and gets driven hard with a mild ecu-tune on LPG fuel.
Candisa My car has 30k intervals too but limited to 1 year. (Because oil filter gaskets mostly) If they have to change the filter I just tell them to change oil too. Better safe then sorry especially when your paying for the labour anyway. That being said apart from checking fluid levels i trust it to last the miles/Kms I drive for the whole year. Which is 20-25k km or 15+k miles. And it has without an hitch for 3 years (0.9 L TcE with 105 Bhp)
Lots of incredible information here. With that, I change my oil and filter every 5000 miles, I use full synthetic. Changing your oil is the cheapest and easiest maintenance task to perform on your vehicle second only to changing your air filter. For me, testing the limits of the oil science is simply not worth the price you may pay for premature engine wear due to dirty or broken down oil. Thank you again for your extensive and very well put together video.
@@Stoff1 recommended? No manufacturer recommends 20k mile oil changes. As a matter of fact, they say to change oil sooner if you drive in severe conditions which includes everyting except cruising down the highway in 75 degree weather. Im a seasoned mechanic, I recommend 5k mile oil changes.
@@jibrilthegreat35 some do. My 2019 Ford Focus has a recommended oil change interval of 30000 km (18000 miles) or 2 years, whichever comes first. Think about it, why develop the oil that is marketed as lasting 20k if there is no car manufacturer that recommends that schedule. Not sure if it's good advice from Ford, but I'm sure most owners follow that schedule, especially when vehicle is under manufacturer's warranty. What bothers me is that this interval is twice as long as the one they recommend for 2012-2017 models with exactly the same engine as the new car
@@maksymfedoriaka2851 The other part that gets me skeptical is that it is in the company's best interest to make sure the car makes it through the warranty period, but they also want things to fail on the car afterward. I am not necessarily saying that want the engine to blow up immediately after the warranty period is up but they do likely want things to break because then people have to buy parts, and many people will take the car to a dealership to have it repaired and so they continue to make money from the vehicle even if it is already paid off. To me, it seems like part of the reason why there are a lot of old cars are still chugging along with little to no engine issues, which run thicker oils with more frequent oil change frequency vs a lot of modern cars that run very thin oil and don't change it nearly as often. Especially since a lot of people are only keeping their cars for a few years, it all kind of begs the question for me if they are making these maintenance recommendations because it is the absolute best for the longevity of the car or if it actually isn't the best but they can get away with it since they know most people will either just buy a brand new car or continue to fix their current one.
@@nordvestgaming1238I've also heard this theory from other mechanics who believe manufacturers suggest these long maintenance intervals to make it seem like the maintenance cost is low for the first owner. It makes it more likely that that customer will then buy another car from that manufacturer in a few years and rake in repair bills when the next owners have premature failures due to the long maintenance intervals. "Lifetime" transmission fluid is also bogus.
@@CosmicEpiphany why not show a real life engine let's say 50-100k used and switch to their oil and see how it looks after 20k and filter. What this shows me is that it must be a brand new vehicle. And the have legal fine print that saves them liability. Follow manufacturer oil change interval. Theres no warranty on the bottle saying in or out of warranty they will replace you engine if it failed due to lubrication failure
WOW - What an absolute solid piece of work you have done here. The sheer amount of information put in an easy to digest format all with your video footage and voice over. How long did it take to create such a video for us from start to finish? Thanks.
Interesting idea lol. But seriously aftermarket filters do a better job of filtering but have the unintended consequence of oil flow restriction which causes lubrication problems
I change my oil every 2.5-3k miles with full synth! Because 8 quarts of Mobile 1 and a premium filter is worth keeping my 2004 Jaguar XJR dream vehicle alive that much longer, many have attested to 300k+ miles and swear by 3k mile oil changes.. it's too cheap compared to a rebuilt engine + cost of labor for professional Jaguar specialty shop to swap it! We are looking at easy 5 digit numbers. So yeah I will happily change away every 3k tops to keep her happy. And it's so satisfying seeing the oil come out a dark golden color ✨️
@. Perhaps so, and you probably can go 2 Years...but I still wouldn't do that to my Engine. I think 1/Year Oil Change is plenty enough considering that you may change your Conventional Oil up to 3 or 4 Times/Year. Just because you can do it, doesn't mean you should or it's a good idea? Fact is that even Synthetic Oils will still accumulate a lot of soot and metal particles over the course of a year, and you just can't go by the colour of it on your Dipstick either. This is only my opinion of course, and what you do with your Car is your business...but if the Oil is appearing Black on your Dipstick it probably should've been changed a long time ago! Synthetic does a great job of controlling the sludge and varnishing but the Oil is still going to be quite dirty and contaminated in about a years time. Of course, this is also dependant on how much you drive and whether or not it is City or Highway Miles. But if your happy doing it that way...??? I get all of my Synthetic Oils on sale for nearly half off and the Mobil-1 or PurolatorBOSS Filters too, so the little extra cost is negligible and well worth it...all my Engines run like a Swiss Watch and I intend to keep them that way! Just Sayin'
I know an a lot of motor oils that never need changing. You can find them in Autoparts and many other stores. Poor it in your car engine, but never start your car.
I'll stick to my Pennzoil full synthetic and change it every 5k. It's cheap , it gives me a chance to visually inspect everything under my car and most of all it's cheap insurance. I know this oil will easily go to 7500 to possibly 10000. I sent samples to a independent lab from the the 5k change twice with the same results.....the oil is still in excellent shape. So maybe I am wasting a lil money. But my 02 camry has 448,546 miles on the odemeter....so I'll stick to what I'm doing. Cheers.
I used to be quite the cynic about much of this technology. The more I learned the more I realized that for example, 93 octane is not just a gimmick. This has taken things up a _huge_ notch. Its incredible what they do just to get the product passed! Impressive. Thanks for the info.
In my country, Thailand, production cars are tuned for 95, especially for the ecology cars. If you run 91 with them, your ECU will kick you in low octane map due to knock sensor detecting some knocking, you lose performance and fuel economy with that. They even state it in driver's manuals that we need octane 95 for the car to run properly. We only have Gasoline 95 here, the additional options at gas station are E10 95 (90% Gasoline 91 base + 10% Ethanol), E10 91 (90% Gasoline 87 base + 10% Ethanol), E20 98 (80% Gasoline 91 base + 20% Ethanol) and E85 (15-50% Gasoline base + 50-85% Ethanol).
This was extremely well made and definitely easy to understand for the not-no-mechanically inclined. I have been around cars my entire life and watched my dad put 20w50 in everything. Once I got older I used what the manufacturer specifies and believe the archaic 3,000 mile change interval is WAYYYY too soon. That was for old cars with blowby and poor efficiency. Engine tolerances today are not measured with feeler gauges, they're measured in microns. My daily driver gets a Motorcraft filter and 5w20 about every 7500 miles and with 137,000 miles the oil is still clean when I change it.
What measuring device can you use to measure microns? Why do you say older cars had blowby problems. I've owned cars all the way back to the sixties and never had any blowby problems. Blowby is usually caused by high compression or by bad piston rings. I've owned high compression muscle cars but non of them ever had or developed blowby problems. Diesels have a lot of blowby, partly due to their high compression engines. and partly due to the kerosene they burn.
is it bad that I see smoke when I remove my oil cap after a journey? I presume that's caused by blowby. I have a 1L naturally aspirated petrol aygo with a compression ratio of 11.5-1. the car is designed for fuel economy. the oil tends to stay pretty clean though, I use premium castrol edge 0w30 oil
Your videos are more informative than anything else I’ve seen on UA-cam. Thank you so much for all that you do for the automotive enthusiast and general public. I’m sure you get this all the time but, your videos are a fantastic and valuable public service.
For what it's worth, I have used the Mobil One 15,000 mile Full Synthetic since I got my 2008 Focus with 26,000 miles on it (bought in 2012). I also use their high mile oil filter. I routinely change my oil between 15,000 and 16,000 miles. I actually just changed it last night after 16,800 miles. The vehicle now has 326,000+ miles on it. It still runs strong! I'd say that's a good testament to many things about the car but also to their product. I don't think it's a huge stretch to say the 20K oil would work. The only reason I do not use it is the 15K oil is half the cost. So at that interval, I don't mind changing the oil at 15,000-ish to save a few bucks.
@@magichatake for the love of god don’t listen to this guy he is probable lying, no way in hell can an engine last 300000 miles with 15-20k miles oil change intervals, just change your oil every 3-5k miles if you use conventional, and 5-7.5k miles if you use synthetic, its too cheap to risk damage to your engine please don’t listen to anyone that claims otherwise, you have been warned
@@Basilahi got a 530d with over 200k change oil every 10-15, car doesn't use a single drop. I think a good oil could go 20k miles easily. why would anyone lie about this?
@@MrScary67 it ran a lot in my opinion and I think that you saved a lot of bucks by folllowing the manual. Sooner or later something would die due to natural wear and tear, and now you can use these few bucks saved to pay the repair.
I've gone 2 different times on 2 different cars, 22,000 on one and 24,000 on the other before changing the oil. Both cars used Castrol GTX. One due to forgetful negligence, the other due to being broke and not having the time and place to do it. Though the oil came out almost jet black both times, I checked under the valve covers and everything still looked shiny with no sludge. Though you COULD go that long on a good oil, I really don't recommend it despite what manufactures try to make you believe.
Sludge is not in the oil that drains but in the fuel sump and the corners of the engine parts. Also, there will always be wear metals that will damage the engines. There are cars that have been abused and no oil changed for longer but they will have a toll on engine life. So, as long as you don't care about engine life, do what you want
I'm impressed! I just wish the data sheets from measurements taken during product development (for the final released product) were mandatory for manufacturers to make available to the public, so we could make an informed decision when choosing between offerings from different manufacturers!
Regular oil changes at 3-5k intervals can extend engine life and reduce wear. Videos on UA-cam show the difference between engines with 10k and 3k oil changes, with the former having significant varnish and soot buildup. Engine oil cools the engine, but soot buildup decreases its effectiveness, causing increased friction and heat. This might lead to oil burning. But yes the oil can last & also the damage that’s caused by changing at 10k. I do 3k on my vehicle.
@@mindcontrol31 did they go the full 20k miles per oil change? Cuz the engines from my understanding didnt really last any longer than their typical lifespan
Synthetics are the way to go with most gasoline and diesel engines. In the mid 1980s through the late 1990s we ran Amsoil in our company vans (Dodge 318). We would change the oil every 20,000 miles with an oil filter change every 10,000 miles. We were putting 80,000 to 100,000 miles a year on each van and trading them off around 400,000 miles. We NEVER had an oil related problem with any engine we just preformed normal maintenance and replaced the timing chain every 150,000 miles (we found that the timing chains would stretch and jump a tooth around 160,000 miles, it was cheaper to just replace it before it happened as opposed to the downtime out on the road) Once our supply of Amsoil ran out we switched to Mobil 1 with the same results. In 1998 we started switching over to Dodge Trucks with the 5.9 Cummins Diesel we ran Mobil Delvac 1 which is a Synthetic Oil for Diesel Engines. We changed oil every 25,000 miles with a filter change around 12,500 miles. My company truck 1998 3500 was traded off at 289,000 miles after fifth gear went out for the fifth time (design flaw with the NV4500 transmission when used at higher gross weights, Truck was routinely hauling 20,000 lbs or more)
30-20 years ago engines were build with cast iron, oil canals were not that small, lot of parts were designed to last long. Now there are many types of metal used for engine build, they heat up differently which means expand different and in different time. Oil canals are often smaller in diameter which requires better and more often changed oil. When you do long distances engine wears sgnificantly less. You can do with same car 400 k miles in 10 years and have better condition engine than 100k but short distances like 5 miles each
Very informative but the average person cannot comprehend all that you presented. I am a retired Cat, Cummins, Cleveland and etc. mechanic and understand all to well what you presented. Back in 1972 I started using Mobile Delvac 15/40 in all my own personal engines; a diesel oil in gas engines. I had a Briggs & Stratton 3 & 1/2 hp mower that lasted 24 years on that oil and a 2.5 GM 4 cyl. that survived 300,000 miles on Delvac 15/40. Today I use Shell Rotella 5/40 synthetic in both my vehicles which both have over 130,000 mile and do not use oil between oil changes. And my oil changes are between 10,000 to 12,000 miles with oil filter change at mid stream. Oh yes I predominantly use Baldwin oil filters.
Really interesting and in-depth. I didn’t know oil companies went through this much testing. I hate to admit that I just can’t do long drain intervals. I break out in hives if my oil has more than 5,000 miles on it. Can’t do it.
Pat Goss suggests basing the oil change schedule on engine run-time rather than distance travelled, so it's interesting to see Mobil using viscosity vs run-time as one of their measures. What's your opinion on the idea? It makes sense that distance alone isn't an ideal measure, as it doesn't account for time spent idling, and it's notable that the "severe" and "normal" schedules often correspond to similar run-times (e.g. severe: 6000 km / (40 km/hour) = 150 hours, normal: 12000 km / (80 km/hour) = 150 hours).
Thanks to you and Mobil 1 for the informative video!!!! I'm glad you addressed the fact that owners CAN NOT exceed the manufacturers oil change requirements while under warranty. Otherwise it will void the warranty.
The only time your warranty will get voided is if your engine breaks and they ask you to prove that you changed your oil according to their interval. If you had it done there, no problem. Just don't get caught without confirmed proof that you changed it according to their schedule. If you changed it yourself, you have to retain all your receipts for purchasing the oil. If it was changed by a third party shop, keep all their receipts showing the oil purchased and their work to change it. Until you apply for engine repair warranty work, however, they have no knowledge if you followed the warranty verbatim or not.
If the engine fails, it has to be proven that it was the oil’s fault with extended drain intervals that it failed for the mfg to void the warranty. Amsoil will cover your engine if it failed due to Amsoil failing when used as directed.
This was great, working in the engineering industry I understand the level of rigour behind the testing before designs/products see the real world. It was good to see how it’s done in other sectors
I started using Pennzoil Platinum because natural gas is a lot cleaner than crude oil. I am starting to use the Wal Mart synthetic in everything now because It is good and I am getting cheap in my old age. I don't have anything that won't outlast me. I'm still using Delo 400 15-40 in the old tractor. Everything I own with an oil pump has either a Motor Guard or Gulf Coast bypass filter. Everything is based on using filters that don't clean oil then draining the dirty oil. I got wise to that racket in 1963. I still don't drain oil. I changed the filters more often in the 60s.
The natural gas is used to make hydrogen, that is used to purify the molecular chains of the natural hydrocarbon. This result is a smooth molecule without kinks and removal of impurities that would allow the molecule to break down sooner.
I enjoy learning from your videos so much. To understand something is great...to be able to convey it in a way that the non-engineer like myself can not only understand it, but then want to learn even more is another. Thank you so much for the time and effort you put into each video.
My success with Mobil 1: 1982 Honda Accord had 300,000 miles when I traded it in. 1994 Acura Legend had 320,000 miles when ZI sold it. 2001 2500 Dodge Ram (used for towing) modified with Banks twin-turbo, intake & exhaust had 450,000 when I sold it. 2013 Toyota Highlander Hybrid has 90,000 & runs like new (26 mpg) no mechanical problems. 2016 Toyota Tundra has 95,000 & runs like new (17 mpg) no mechanical issues 2020 Subaru Ascent will be getting the Mobile 1 treatment as well after 1,000 miles oil change (done), 2,000 miles oil change, 2,000 miles oil change, 5,000 miles oil change (4 oil changes by 10,000 miles) - then every 10,000 miles.
Interesting. With Hondas they say don't change the oil until 5,000? A video someone had an oil expert and he said the first 100 miles of an engine causes the most wear and metal filings. So he said at 100 miles REPLACE the factory break in oil with fresh break in oil then change it again at 1,000 with regular oil. What do you think?
My VW Beetle, back in the 70s or 80s, i used Mobil 1 in it and never changed the oil, just replaced what dripped out. It didn't even have a filter, just a mesh oil bath filter. I finally gave it away because rust was killing it. It had over 300,000 miles on it and those were mainly NYC miles, and the engine still ran like new.
Did 20,000 miles per change with Mobil 1 in the 80s. Changed filter every 5,000 and added a quart. At 100,000 did a valve job. No perceptible ridge. Internals squeeky clean. Chicago driving including -20 winters and rush hour stop and go. VW Golf.
I have no doubt that it will perform just as it did in the Mobil tests. The only way to check the oil, however, is to send a sample of it to a testing lab for analysis.
Thanks for the video EE! Just wanted to say I appreciate how objective and informative this was. It's great to have a source of cold, hard facts, rather than speculation and anecdotes.
I love your videos, you explain everything very well, making it easier to understand, if someone else tried explaining this, it would probably go over my head.
This has got to be one of the best videos I ever watched on UA-cam! Thank you! And much respect to Mobil for showing you a lot of internal information about their testing processes!
as the owner of a 1994 toyota scepter, I am pretty sure these engines are made of unobtanium. My room mate drove the stupid thing 140 km without a drop of coolant in it, and somehow the stupid thing is fine
Haha, could have done a whole episode on ICP, it was fascinating to learn about! FTIR was a bit more challenging for me to grasp, using vibration and what wavelengths are missing to determine chemical properties. I was lost a bit haha, but it's very cool what the devices are capable of!
I use AA spectroscopy. Single element at a time. Used to do all my own calibration curves by hand and maximize absorbance by hand. Now the machine does it all for me. I miss the old days of classical analysis, titration and distillation. For any chemist, it's like where babies come from. Seems lost on most graduating analytical chemists now. The technology does all the thinking for you.
Ive been doing it for years. After the synthetic recalibration that gixed the seal failures. (Its wasnt synthetic oil but the switching between conventional and synthetic or mixing them that was causing the failures.) The filters will fail before the oil so you change the filter and top the oil off. This is something you do at home, no shop will do it for you. They will do a total oil change.
Depends on your particular driving conditions and habits and type of oil additive used . Like food grade cooking oil motor oil degrades and breaks down eventually has to be changed .
I started using this oil in my 2010 Honda Accord 2.4 Liter 4 Cylinder Engine when the car reached 75,000 miles. I have been changing the oil every 15k miles since. The car now has 250,000 Miles and the engine is still running like new. This oil is fantastic and does exactly what it claims. I also live in Colorado where there are extremes in temperatures at both ends of the spectrum. I recommend also using the Mobil 1 extended performance filter if you decide to go with this oil.
I do exactly the same. I purchased 20,000 mile Mobile-1 oil. I can only push it to 15,000 for some reason. I just can't take it to the 20k. Haha. It doesn't feel right.
Glad you mentioned at the end about still needing to check your oil level during that year. Most people dont realize that especially modern day engines have an acceptable amount of oil burning duration that an oil pan cant make up for in 20,000 miles. For example, most Chrysler engines consider an engine with over 50,000 miles, can burn up to a quart of oil in 900 miles. This is their acceptable amount. So your average 5qt to 6qt engine will run itself dry in 6 months, not counting the damage occurring due to running low on oil to even get to that point.
Burning a quart of oil every 1,000 miles in insane keep your oil changed between 3,500 and, 5,500 or every 6 months whichever comes first and your engine should not use any oil. I'm a mechanic with 35 years experience in rebuilding engines . I don't care what the manufacturer says just make sure to use the manufacturer recommended oil
@@russellsexton4771 if you are currently a mechanic on modern vehicles, than it should be no surprise for you to see engines having low oil between intervals. Even using manufacturer suggested spec oil.
How can anyone dislike this video? The amount of time and effort poured into something like this is no joke!! Thank you once again for an awesome video Jason!!
Well maybe it spills mobilevil's marketing all over the place.. if they really want high changing intervals they would go with a car manufacturer instead of marketing blubbblubb. Make it standard on an modern engine and then if the owners reach high mileage despite rare oil changes then you have a market...
I've been doing 1 year interval oil changes for almost 10 years with no issues. Amsoil has had such oil for sale for a while now. I currently use Mobile One though because it's so much cheaper. Still running the Amsoil filters though - Mobile One ones aren't readily available yet.
Eric Vilendrer - It's a 2010 Altima but I ran it in my Accord for a few years before that I think. That was a while ago so my memory may not be so good.
Dennis Kapatos After 40 yrs of driving I've never done anything but yearly, or longer, oil changes on my cars. I've never used anything but mid grade oils and filters. To date, never an engine failure or other issue related to engine oil. People worry way to much.
Very good information here. Amsoil has been doing the same thing since 1972. Also Amsoil supports extended drain intervals, even when your vehicle is under warranty. And great advice about checking your oil level frequently. Very important.
This is really insightful video! I hope you can make more of these videos to show people what engineers do and educate more...hell at this point i don't mind u make a lot of sponsored videos if your feature videos are this good!
Thank you, really appreciate it! So much time went into putting this together, and it's a result of everyone asking questions on the first video about the product. I used to work as a test engineer, so seeing another facility, and the ability to share that information exclusively with my audience (as far as I'm aware, this is the first time much of this data is public) is super cool to me!
Well put together video for us Master Diplomaless viewers. I enjoyed it fully and helped understand more how oil is actually made and how each kind of oil is different, especially in the comparison of the high mileage, synthetic and M1 annual. Great info.
Great PROFESSIONAL review without the BS and bashing of others. This is how a proper review should be and not like the others who even touch on (make fun of) irrelevant subjects ( people, religion etc)
Currently at 133,000 miles (and I only used Mobil 1 from the first oil change) on my Kia Optima and I change my oil every 10k to 15k with either Mobil 1 or Napa Platinum oil filter. As a mechanic of 35 years plus, just like he said towards the end is check your fluids. Many people fail to check their levels to find low engine oil among other levels.
@@michaelburton Yes, going on almost 200k! So far only other thing it was a must replace wat the left wheel bearing hub which was making noise, so I did both.
@@ZzzRoofus It was not left out if you paid attention. It was explained that in engine testing, external cooling cycles of 20°C simulate cold starts of the engine. He explains that at the 12:30 mark.
This is some great stuff I’m so happy I ran up on your channel and this video I’ve been so curios about if this was really legit or not! I do use Mobile 1 in my truck and always change at 5,000 but I really appreciate your time and work doing this for us! Thank you
What is not addressed here is the kind of short trip driving where the oil never gets heated beyond 100 degrees Cent long enough to drive out the moisture. I would like to hear about oil that stands up to that problem. If there is no such oil, then how often and how long do you need to run the oil "hot" to get the moisture out of it?
andrew domenitz Andrew, after having had a car that my wife drove 2 miles a day, it NEVER GOT WARM, I could not keep up with the oil changes, but I drove it on weekends,as I drove a company van, event Lu after several years it developed some engine problem, junked it .my current car a 2013 Ford TAURUS , I run a different synthetic, but even there a few chores, I’ll drive it until it gets up to normal operating temp,,before parking it , it only has 26K on it but will be on my next oil change in a a few k, I bought it with 21 k on it.
@@flybyairplane3528 I try to get up to at least 200 F. So I drive more, and I really do not mind it since I am driving a 2004 Corvette base coupe with upgraded sway bars. That's all. No silly mods, with 45K on the clock. I do not drive fast or anything at my age. 66 yrs old now and have not spoken to a cop in 10 yrs. I do go a little fast but nothing like a kid would do. Not looking to wear it out. Accelerate normally, brake normally, but sometimes when the circumstances allow I like to take a brisk curve here and there. Just trying to enjoy it. Always a gear head when younger and I have learned a little. Thanks for your input. Happy motoring.
Vlad Nazarenko been there 😂 I changed the oil filter after a whole 2 years because the new oil would always burn ... don’t do what I did change your filter at least when it’s due
Something tells me that if I'm using their oil and only changing it every 20,000 miles and my engine blows up they won't be paying for a replacement. They can make all the claims they want. I would never go 20,000 miles between oil changes.
He did state that the engine manufacturers determine the oil change interval. So I don't see anything wrong with an engine oil having a longer service life. But would I want to chance that, not at all. Look at 0W-20 used now, that's a winter oil used year round. Nothing wrong with that in my opinion. But it got questioned hard.
Trucking companies have engine oil samples taken and analyzed frequently. High mileage engines that show abnormal characteristics such trace main and rod bearing material, trace coolant and other contaminants of wear etc in the engine oil get rebuilt depending on the tractors age and so on. So a refresh rebuild maybe gives a rig in good shape another 1 M plus miles or they can flog the rig before even a planned less costly repair. If I was going to do 20 K miles on engine oil I'd want to do oil sampling. And maybe swap out the oil filter at 10 k miles. If I had a good beater that I was driving and the engine is A OK and I checked it over, maybe I'd try that. Hey 5 oil changes in 100 K miles not bad. But not doing that with my good ride. OEMs recommended oil change is quite high now, mainly because its sells a vehicle with less maintenance required, like iridium spark plugs. But for my money and experience I change the hell outa the O&F and do a complete ATF change out way before a recommended or partial one. Treat it right and ittl reward you with reliability. Otherwise???
I use the 15k oil(extended performance) and change it every 10k miles or annually whichever is earlier. Edit: my Honda just hit 100k miles with 10k intervals since the day I got it new
My wife only puts 3K mi/yr on her 2017 Jetta so it only gets one oil change a year. Manufacturer interval is 10K but that would be three years between oil changes! Not going to wait THAT long.
Another excellent video from Engineering Explained. There is no doubt that oil technology has improved hugely since I became a motorist in 1983. However, I still feel that long oil change intervals are not going to help an engine live a long and happy life. I change my engine oil based on its colour and 'finger feel', this translates to about 4 to 7k miles - even though the service interval for my current car (2005 Mercedes m271 engine) is 10k miles. Your video clearly shows us how harsh the environment in an engine is, fresh, clean, quality oil must be a good option for your engine.
Well.... Using a crap conventional, with a crap filter - 3k intervals leave a safe margin. Even then, some engines would still sludge-up over time. Prolly most watching this vid are more inclined to take better than the crappiest care of their equipment though, I’d surmise. Just be especially wary of the $10 oil change special, down at your local “Goofy Lube” haha!
You mentioned oil consumption at the end, but you did NOT mention what happens during the MADS testing if/when an engine requires more oil during that 20k mile interval. Assuming they did not run the engine on low oil volume, some quantity of makeup oil has to be added, which as luck would have it, fixes a lot of ailments an oil running for 20k miles might start to develop. I used to run Mobil1 in all of my vehicles until a reformulation caused it to increase oil consumption to 2-3x the rate it had prior. This wasn't just in one engine, this was across several platforms: 6L powerstroke, 4.6L V8, 3.9L V8, 5.4l V8... not mine, but related, 4L explorer and whatever V6 was in an Escape. Engine mileages varied from 20 to 80k miles... and the consumption increase was a function of time, all right around spring early summer. We all were scratching our heads. A change of oil brand eliminated the additional consumption back to normal previous levels. With the purchase of 14 E63 AMG s model, it required 0w40 oil, initially M1 was the only offering and it too succumbed to the same problem of high consumption. Switched to Castrol GTX, and it dropped significantly. Still higher than any other motor I maintain, but that 5.5L twin turbo puts out more as well on the thinnest oil of any motor I maintain. I no longer use Mobil1 in any application. I refuse to pay top dollar for a product that evaporates.
I've changed my oil every 10k miles back in the late 90s with the regular mobile 1 full synthetic...I'm concerned about running it to 20k... nice video
All oils, branded Mobil 1, have always been a full synthetic oil. I didn't say standard Mobil oil, that would have referred to a non synthetic oil. I said standard Mobil 1, which refers to the first formula of Mobil 1 when the synthetic oil line of Mobil oils was invented in the seventies. There sell several formulas of Mobil 1 for sale at this time and the Mobil 1, mentioned in the video, is their latest formula and is called Mobil 1 Annual Protection.
Using a magnetic sump plug is a simple way of checking if your oil is lubricating properly i.e. A lot of metal on the plug is bad and a small amount is good. A drop test of the oil can also give you some indication of how well it is lubricating 🙂
There is always metal in the oil eg. ~17.52 min where they graph the wear in ppm Thus there is always some iron (Fe) on a magnetic sump plug. The best you can hope for is that the amount of iron on the sump plug is minimal. If there was no metal on the sump plug the engine would not be wearing... and that obviously doesn't happen. Please take a look at a car oil analysis if you're in any doubt that there is ferrous metal in the oil. 🙂 P.S. Perhaps you're thinking of a non-magnetic sump plug? i.e. Most cars don't have magnetic sump plugs.
If an oil analysis shows iron then you'll also see it on a magnetic sump plug at oil change time. The magnet picks up about 50% of the circulating ferrous metal. The oil filter would remove any bigger chunks of metal over ~40 micron and the magnet would pick up any metal smaller than whatever is being filtered. When the oil changes colour and becomes darker part of the colour change is due to the wear metals in the oil. If you rub the stuff on the magnet between your fingers you should be able to feel the metal particles. Have you seen what the build-up of metal on a magnetic sump plug looks like? I can post links to examples of sump plugs with low and high wear if you like? 🙂
@@MichaelCzajka yes that would be cool to post the pics. I think I have seen it before; it’s so fine that it turns your fingers black? Also, I would like to know how to post a picture. Never been able to figure that one out. 😆
I would never let my car go that long without an oil change. Every 4-5k miles change the oil and filter with full synthetic and youll be good. My last car said change the oil every 12k miles and I still did it every 5k. After 10 years I took it in for mods and the techs said the engine was spotless and really healthy.
I change the oil on my smart car every 10k miles. 115k and still going strong. The oil change is roughly 3% of what the entire car is worth so the savings matter lol.
I once bought a new 2004 Honda Accord. It was the worst vehicle I ever owned. I'll never own another Honda vehicle. Toyotas one the other hand, have been great vehicles for me. My 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee has been a great vehicle as well. I bought it new and it still runs like new today.
Well, I bought a 1991 Silverado with a 5.7L (350 CID) engine in 2011 with 84K miles on it for $2,900. Farmer didn't have to drive to work and obviously didn't get off the farm too often. I pulled about a pound of sludge out of the valve covers and off the top of the cylinder heads and rocker arms. Oil change sticker indicated the oil in in at that time had about 14,500 miles on it. Plain old Pennzoil conventional. Drove it for 23K miles and replaced the intake manifold gasket and pulled maybe two pounds of sludge out of the lifter valley. The distributor was about frozen, could barely turn it by hand so I replaced the distributor. I'm still driving it and would estimate that in the first 20 years it had maybe one or two oil changes. Some farmers top off their engines with what they have on the farm, good old 15W40 diesel motor oil. Likely how it has survived before my TLC took over in 2011.
300k with no fluid changes is really good for a transmission in a light duty truck. The engine probably would have lasted another 500k miles which is really good.
I think it is important to note that the oil change interval set by the manufacturer and in the owner's manual doesn't only apply to the vehicle while it is under warranty, but rather for the life of the car.
Not True. The interval listed in your manual is only demanded and required during the warranty period. After that, it is only listed as a recommendation and you are not required to go by that interval listed any longer. If you're out of warranty and don't go by his numbers, what is he going to do to you, take away your birthday? Once your car is out of warranty, you can change it as often as you think is necessary to keep the engine protected. Of course, the dealer wants you to go by this frequent interval so he can sell you his oil more frequently and charge you as much as he wants to charge. If the warranty is over and you don't go by the owner's manual, what is the dealer going to do to you, take away your birthday?
Very thorough! I am always interested in oil technology. Having rebuilt many engines and seen the inside of them under various treatment by their owners I can fully appreciate what the engineers have done over the last century. There are still vintage car owners who insist on 30W non-detergent and I can't agree at all especially after knowing this kind of information.
I'm sceptical when manufacturers use round numbers. One year is very round. Also 20k per year intervals seems to be solving a problem few people have. My problem that I would love to see solved is longer time intervals.
I think it's a big round number because it's just guidance. There is so much variability between how people drive and driving conditions. Someone who does tons and tons of short trips should really be changing oil more frequently vs someone who does long highway trips (where oil gets hot hot and burns off any moisture). The best way to get a sense of what YOU should be doing is send off used oil for some oil analysis (Blackstone Labs does this for reasonable price I think) -> then you get your oil analysis and can gauge the oil breakdown and metals in the oil to see if you want to adjust your interval.
Were OEM oil filters used in the engines? Did the Lexus engine use an OEM Toyota/Lexus filter and if not what filter was used? How do I know if the fikter used meets manufacturer's specs? Toyota specifies flow rate as being more important than filtering capability.
Excellent video. I've wondered what goes into the testing to oils and you've really pulled back the curtain so to say. One minor nitpick: "vaporized, atomized, and finally ionized" -> atomization is the suspension of liquid droplets in air and vaporization is conversion to liquid into gasses. So it would be atomized first then vaporized. I suspect you know this, however, and given the length and breadth of the material presented, it was likely just a phrasing error and not a knowledge one. :)
I understand if you aren't able to answer this question, but would you trust that oil in your engine for 20,000 miles? I trust your opinion, so I figured I would ask. Great video as always!
So how does lowering the temp simulate a cold/dry start. The wear comes from when the oil has drained from the parts. The cold/cooler oil cannot simulate a dry start.
cuz that video is a bs, only time will tell if oil can last up to 20k miles (i dont think so) but who cares if ur engine lasts for 100k or 100 000k miles. The only thing companies care is $$$
Hope everyone is having a wonderful holiday season!! There's a lot of information packed into this video, quite a bit of preparation and fact-checking went into this, and I know it's a massive amount to consume. I learned an immense amount over the two days I spent at their facility learning about the testing, and I believe this video captures what I saw very well for only being a 20-minute video. It was fascinating learning about how much testing goes on that we rarely hear about, and it was super cool to see the viscosity and wear metals analysis with time over the 20k mile drain intervals (as demonstrated towards the end of the video). It's a long video, but I'm quite proud of how it turned out, and I appreciate those of you who'll take the time to watch from start to finish - really tells the whole story! Thank you all and Happy New Year, let's have an amazing 2018!!
instagram.com/engineeringexplained/
Engineering Explained Castro GTX also have 300000 miles test I don't know what the details are but if possible please compare
The real question is what do you use in your cars? Be specific please.
Well i dont know if it does what it claims but i use this oil in my small engines since they ever get changed more then once a year. Seems to run clean and even start well in colder weather.
Would you rather change every 10,000 miles with a cheaper brand or every 20,000 miles with a Castrol or Mobil 1?
I run Amsoil full synthetic diesel 15-40 in my 03 duramax lb7 and change the oil every 25,000 - 30,000 miles. It's winter now here in Maine and just above 0 degrees F. My engine has 280k and still running strong. Ill be pulling it out for head gaskets and injectors at 500k and am very curious to see how my bearings look. Your videos have helped me with mechanical understanding more then any other source of information. Thankyou and have a great new year!
As an engineer I can comfortably say marketing says and does whatever the hell they want despite what engineers tell them
Amen to that brother!
such as what? are you expecting them to use engineering terms in their marketing materials? Thats not a good idea because consumers dont know what they mean
The truth is that most people are honest and engineering drives marketing, and vice versa. If your goal is to make money then being sued constantly or having a poor reputation means will not be in business for long.
Beautifully Said . 100% agree with you . Marketing takes priority over most engineering this day and age .
100% agreed . In this day and age unfortunately marketing takes priority and engineering takes the back seat . Its very common across many industries today .
This is the kind of video that just proves that you can get waaaaay better quality content on youtube than on television. Very very very well done. Thank's a lot!
I love this comment, thank you so much!
this video? how about almost every video , TV is garbage and dead
I miss critical questions asked to the company
Yep. This level of transparency and detail is what's missing in TV ads. I'm totally sold on getting the Mobile 1 AP Motor oil. :)
If you're in the UK it's time to stop funding the commie BBC with your TV licence! Support creators on UA-cam, this is the way forward.
I change my oil every 3 miles or 3 minutes, (which ever comes first). I would explain why, but my car needs my attention.
🤣🤣🤣🤣 HAD ME IN BITS
Bad. The last minute has accelerated engine wear because the oil is aging. Got to be careful.
Is it a 2 stroke
Im not an oil change enthusiast. Im a bypass depth filter enthusiast. Before synthetic oil I changed the bypass filter every 2.000 miles and added a quart of Delo. With synthetic oil I do it every 6.000. That works for me. With Mobil 1 with 250.000 miles with no oil drains and a depth bypass filter change every 12.000 miles I mentioned it on UA-cam. A Caterpillar lab manager sent me a sample kit. He said the oil looks good for that many miles but suggested a 6.000 miles Frantz filter change every 6.000 miles instead of every 12.000. The Subaru didnt need oil added between filter changes. Both head gaskets started leaking oil at somewhere over 250.000 miles. Yes Mobil 1 will last 20.000 miles. Better if you keep it clean. Im using Walmart synthetic and a Australian Jackmaster Classic bypass filter in the Pontiac Torrent.
Technically speaking, if you never replace the oil, it can last the entire life of the engine.
It'll just be a much shorter lifetime.
My sister did that
A friend of mine had a 1972 Plymouth Duster. He put over 100K miles on it and NEVER changed oil. At that time I figured he was crazy. I would never do that, but it was done. Now....was the engine pretty much spent after that? We have no idea, the car was sold.
Back in the 60s we serviced telephone company trucks. We didn't change the oil just the filter. They knew the engine would be a mess when they traded it off. They knew if the engine was clean it wouldn't be worth any more. Bean counters at work.
A good motor oil will last as long as you keep it Clean and don't over heat it. Took me 20 years to put 250 K miles on my 84 Subaru 1800 with no oil drains using a toilet paper filter and Mobil 1 15-50 racing oil. The Nissan Altima probably couldn't handle 15-50. Had to put the Motor Guards for the engine and transmission between the grill and radiator. Have to remove the grill to change the toilet paper. The Altima has Pennzoil Platinum in it.
Barry Kery engine oil or transmission oil?!
Well done...never thought they would go to those lengths.
Thanks!
it's quite interesting that 5w40 isn't mentioned.
i guess you can't do that kind of stuff to an oil with such big viscosity difference.
regardless, mobil1 is very good oil (albeit a little pricey).
zollotech hey!
Well with how much they charge i'd hope so
@@theepicricemaker6611 oil is cheaper than engines.
I had my doubts about this product when it was first introduced. The fact that they (Mobile 1) were so open & willing to show the extensive testing criteria really has helped alleviate my concerns.
Thanks for the Info, Sir!!
i have used mobil 1 for over 30 years i only use syn oil in everything i own
Well they are not that open. They don't show the test results between the different oil brands.
The way they test the oil might be extremely thorough, but the way the marketing department describes it....
Mobil 1 is full of chit, contact their warranty department and the runaround is all you ll get
Sadly Mobil 1 is no longer a top quality oil. The best three left are Red Line, Amsoil, and Penzzoil’s ultra platinum line
Missing the duty cycle and engine restart pattern from the MAD test was a huge oversight.
It’s all marketing they don’t care about the major details
Pretty sure that's proprietary info
That's it! I'm putting Mobile 1 in my lawnmower.
Might be wrong but I wouldn't put oil made for a four stroke into a two stroke.
I've never seen a 2 stroke lawn mower TBH.
Right Lane Hog I think you missed the point of his comment.
Archer haha 2 stroke lawn mower wtf
Archer where can I buy my 2 stroke lawnmower
Nobody does the nerdy in-depth coverage better than you. Nobody. As a bonus, you're actually energetic and entertaining, which is greatly appreciated. I love these in-depth videos. Happy holidays to you.
Thank you thank you!!
Ave, bigclive, thunderf00t, eevblog.
My inner nerd was geeking out over this video. Tons of solid info in this. Despite evidence we'll still hear, "I don't trust it."
Solid work!
Glad you enjoyed it, super cool to get a behind the scenes look!
The whole "my dad doesn't trust this and he's been a mechanic for 30 years " line.
It's normal to be sceptic about it, especially when the risks are sludge blocking ever so small oil paths, lack of proper lubrication and cooling of downsized engines with small sumps...
My car has a maintenance interval of 30k km (18k mi), I've changed it every 10k km (6k mi) since new, which will happen for the 5th time soon.
I do plan on ordering an analysis on the oil at 60k km to see if I can switch to 15k km (9k mi) intervals, but I simply won't risk doubling that in an engine that only holds 3litres of oil and gets driven hard with a mild ecu-tune on LPG fuel.
Candisa
My car has 30k intervals too but limited to 1 year. (Because oil filter gaskets mostly)
If they have to change the filter I just tell them to change oil too. Better safe then sorry especially when your paying for the labour anyway.
That being said apart from checking fluid levels i trust it to last the miles/Kms I drive for the whole year. Which is 20-25k km or 15+k miles.
And it has without an hitch for 3 years (0.9 L TcE with 105 Bhp)
Lots of incredible information here. With that, I change my oil and filter every 5000 miles, I use full synthetic. Changing your oil is the cheapest and easiest maintenance task to perform on your vehicle second only to changing your air filter. For me, testing the limits of the oil science is simply not worth the price you may pay for premature engine wear due to dirty or broken down oil. Thank you again for your extensive and very well put together video.
Do you change any other service items 4 times earlier than recommended?
@@Stoff1 recommended? No manufacturer recommends 20k mile oil changes. As a matter of fact, they say to change oil sooner if you drive in severe conditions which includes everyting except cruising down the highway in 75 degree weather. Im a seasoned mechanic, I recommend 5k mile oil changes.
@@jibrilthegreat35 some do. My 2019 Ford Focus has a recommended oil change interval of 30000 km (18000 miles) or 2 years, whichever comes first. Think about it, why develop the oil that is marketed as lasting 20k if there is no car manufacturer that recommends that schedule. Not sure if it's good advice from Ford, but I'm sure most owners follow that schedule, especially when vehicle is under manufacturer's warranty. What bothers me is that this interval is twice as long as the one they recommend for 2012-2017 models with exactly the same engine as the new car
@@maksymfedoriaka2851 The other part that gets me skeptical is that it is in the company's best interest to make sure the car makes it through the warranty period, but they also want things to fail on the car afterward. I am not necessarily saying that want the engine to blow up immediately after the warranty period is up but they do likely want things to break because then people have to buy parts, and many people will take the car to a dealership to have it repaired and so they continue to make money from the vehicle even if it is already paid off. To me, it seems like part of the reason why there are a lot of old cars are still chugging along with little to no engine issues, which run thicker oils with more frequent oil change frequency vs a lot of modern cars that run very thin oil and don't change it nearly as often. Especially since a lot of people are only keeping their cars for a few years, it all kind of begs the question for me if they are making these maintenance recommendations because it is the absolute best for the longevity of the car or if it actually isn't the best but they can get away with it since they know most people will either just buy a brand new car or continue to fix their current one.
@@nordvestgaming1238I've also heard this theory from other mechanics who believe manufacturers suggest these long maintenance intervals to make it seem like the maintenance cost is low for the first owner. It makes it more likely that that customer will then buy another car from that manufacturer in a few years and rake in repair bills when the next owners have premature failures due to the long maintenance intervals. "Lifetime" transmission fluid is also bogus.
That was cool of them to invite you to see all this stuff. Very good presentation.
Peter Schmidt , for sure, to have them be so open about it, is nice to see.
A company that brings you in to prove thier product,RARE👍👍
No... no it isn't.
It's not strange, it's the most typical way to trick you while you end up thinking that product is the real deal
Brian Hodgson its golden bussiness if ur engineers say that it will be fine.
@@ALIENdrifter66 trick you by showing you and explaining how they came to their conclusion?
@@CosmicEpiphany why not show a real life engine let's say 50-100k used and switch to their oil and see how it looks after 20k and filter. What this shows me is that it must be a brand new vehicle. And the have legal fine print that saves them liability. Follow manufacturer oil change interval. Theres no warranty on the bottle saying in or out of warranty they will replace you engine if it failed due to lubrication failure
WOW - What an absolute solid piece of work you have done here.
The sheer amount of information put in an easy to digest format all with your video footage and voice over.
How long did it take to create such a video for us from start to finish?
Thanks.
Thank you thank you!! Probably about 8-10ish full days of work. I spent three days just editing haha.
+Engineering Explained It shows! Thanks man! Love these sorts of videos
Worth every minute.
+Engineering Explained
Wow…
Thank you, thank you
Wow…
Thank you for all your hard work!
I want a filter that cleans the oil so good it comes out gold after 20k miles
Interesting idea lol. But seriously aftermarket filters do a better job of filtering but have the unintended consequence of oil flow restriction which causes lubrication problems
Look into bypass filtering. They have some that filter down to 2 microns which is 4 times smaller than a red blood cell.
Mpg goes 2 he'll after 5 k not the science guy but day by day 1 week 700 miles schafers beats mobile 1 bad !
I change my oil every 2.5-3k miles with full synth! Because 8 quarts of Mobile 1 and a premium filter is worth keeping my 2004 Jaguar XJR dream vehicle alive that much longer, many have attested to 300k+ miles and swear by 3k mile oil changes.. it's too cheap compared to a rebuilt engine + cost of labor for professional Jaguar specialty shop to swap it! We are looking at easy 5 digit numbers.
So yeah I will happily change away every 3k tops to keep her happy. And it's so satisfying seeing the oil come out a dark golden color ✨️
Fram Ultra Synthetic or Amsoil filters are best I've found. I wouldn't ever go over 7500mis w/any oil
If they invent an oil that lasts 2 years, it will be called mobile 2.
I'd call it Mobil-Wishful Thinking!
@. Perhaps so, and you probably can go 2 Years...but I still wouldn't do that to my Engine.
I think 1/Year Oil Change is plenty enough considering that you may change your Conventional Oil up to 3 or 4 Times/Year.
Just because you can do it, doesn't mean you should or it's a good idea?
Fact is that even Synthetic Oils will still accumulate a lot of soot and metal particles over the course of a year, and you just can't go by the colour of it on your Dipstick either.
This is only my opinion of course, and what you do with your Car is your business...but if the Oil is appearing Black on your Dipstick it probably should've been changed a long time ago!
Synthetic does a great job of controlling the sludge and varnishing but the Oil is still going to be quite dirty and contaminated in about a years time.
Of course, this is also dependant on how much you drive and whether or not it is City or Highway Miles. But if your happy doing it that way...???
I get all of my Synthetic Oils on sale for nearly half off and the Mobil-1 or PurolatorBOSS Filters too, so the little extra cost is negligible and well worth it...all my Engines run like a Swiss Watch and I intend to keep them that way! Just Sayin'
@ The super tech is pretty good oil,much better than most well known oils,no doubt
I know an a lot of motor oils that never need changing. You can find them in Autoparts and many other stores. Poor it in your car engine, but never start your car.
Ha!! Well, don't be surprised if that actually exist and the secret formula is being withheld from mankind.
Wow... there's a ton of effort that goes into these video! Great job
Marketing from a company who makes oil vs engineering who say this is a horrible ideal🤦♂️
I love how in depth you go. Thanks Jason, you keep up the great work!!
Happy to hear it, this one was definitely detailed haha.
I'll stick to my Pennzoil full synthetic and change it every 5k. It's cheap , it gives me a chance to visually inspect everything under my car and most of all it's cheap insurance. I know this oil will easily go to 7500 to possibly 10000. I sent samples to a independent lab from the the 5k change twice with the same results.....the oil is still in excellent shape. So maybe I am wasting a lil money. But my 02 camry has 448,546 miles on the odemeter....so I'll stick to what I'm doing. Cheers.
i’m doing the same thing with my 05 camry (205k miles so far). What filter do you use, and do you change it every time you change the oil?
So you change you oil like 4 times a year then
Also your camry with almost half a million miles do you change the trans fluid?
@@Fandkforever yes , I've changed it once.
@@donnysanner342 What filter do you use?
I used to be quite the cynic about much of this technology. The more I learned the more I realized that for example, 93 octane is not just a gimmick.
This has taken things up a _huge_ notch. Its incredible what they do just to get the product passed! Impressive. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for watching Neil, and for continuing to contribute here in the comments! :)
it's true 93 isn't a gimmick, but it's still a waste of money for the vast majority of people
I have a car with a turbo on it,it loves 93
Same I run 99 though. Shells V-Power usually.
In my country, Thailand, production cars are tuned for 95, especially for the ecology cars. If you run 91 with them, your ECU will kick you in low octane map due to knock sensor detecting some knocking, you lose performance and fuel economy with that. They even state it in driver's manuals that we need octane 95 for the car to run properly. We only have Gasoline 95 here, the additional options at gas station are E10 95 (90% Gasoline 91 base + 10% Ethanol), E10 91 (90% Gasoline 87 base + 10% Ethanol), E20 98 (80% Gasoline 91 base + 20% Ethanol) and E85 (15-50% Gasoline base + 50-85% Ethanol).
The behind the scenes footage/experience is awesome!
Thanks Justin!!
This was extremely well made and definitely easy to understand for the not-no-mechanically inclined. I have been around cars my entire life and watched my dad put 20w50 in everything. Once I got older I used what the manufacturer specifies and believe the archaic 3,000 mile change interval is WAYYYY too soon. That was for old cars with blowby and poor efficiency. Engine tolerances today are not measured with feeler gauges, they're measured in microns. My daily driver gets a Motorcraft filter and 5w20 about every 7500 miles and with 137,000 miles the oil is still clean when I change it.
What measuring device can you use to measure microns? Why do you say older cars had blowby problems. I've owned cars all the way back to the sixties and never had any blowby problems. Blowby is usually caused by high compression or by bad piston rings. I've owned high compression muscle cars but non of them ever had or developed blowby problems. Diesels have a lot of blowby, partly due to their high compression engines. and partly due to the kerosene they burn.
is it bad that I see smoke when I remove my oil cap after a journey? I presume that's caused by blowby. I have a 1L naturally aspirated petrol aygo with a compression ratio of 11.5-1. the car is designed for fuel economy. the oil tends to stay pretty clean though, I use premium castrol edge 0w30 oil
Your videos are more informative than anything else I’ve seen on UA-cam. Thank you so much for all that you do for the automotive enthusiast and general public. I’m sure you get this all the time but, your videos are a fantastic and valuable public service.
For what it's worth, I have used the Mobil One 15,000 mile Full Synthetic since I got my 2008 Focus with 26,000 miles on it (bought in 2012). I also use their high mile oil filter. I routinely change my oil between 15,000 and 16,000 miles. I actually just changed it last night after 16,800 miles. The vehicle now has 326,000+ miles on it. It still runs strong! I'd say that's a good testament to many things about the car but also to their product. I don't think it's a huge stretch to say the 20K oil would work. The only reason I do not use it is the 15K oil is half the cost. So at that interval, I don't mind changing the oil at 15,000-ish to save a few bucks.
Hi mate. Did you used your car more on streets or highways?
@@magichatake for the love of god don’t listen to this guy he is probable lying, no way in hell can an engine last 300000 miles with 15-20k miles oil change intervals, just change your oil every 3-5k miles if you use conventional, and 5-7.5k miles if you use synthetic, its too cheap to risk damage to your engine please don’t listen to anyone that claims otherwise, you have been warned
@@Basilahi got a 530d with over 200k change oil every 10-15, car doesn't use a single drop. I think a good oil could go 20k miles easily. why would anyone lie about this?
@@magichatake 90% highway. Car died at 330,000...transmission
@@MrScary67 it ran a lot in my opinion and I think that you saved a lot of bucks by folllowing the manual. Sooner or later something would die due to natural wear and tear, and now you can use these few bucks saved to pay the repair.
A lot of tech and testing goes into developing these products. Very impressive with the 500k mile test!
The quality of this video.....amazing
Thank you thank you!!
I've gone 2 different times on 2 different cars, 22,000 on one and 24,000 on the other before changing the oil. Both cars used Castrol GTX. One due to forgetful negligence, the other due to being broke and not having the time and place to do it. Though the oil came out almost jet black both times, I checked under the valve covers and everything still looked shiny with no sludge. Though you COULD go that long on a good oil, I really don't recommend it despite what manufactures try to make you believe.
Sludge is not in the oil that drains but in the fuel sump and the corners of the engine parts. Also, there will always be wear metals that will damage the engines. There are cars that have been abused and no oil changed for longer but they will have a toll on engine life. So, as long as you don't care about engine life, do what you want
I'm impressed! I just wish the data sheets from measurements taken during product development (for the final released product) were mandatory for manufacturers to make available to the public, so we could make an informed decision when choosing between offerings from different manufacturers!
Why, for $35 you can send oil to Blackstone Labs and get a full analysis.
Regular oil changes at 3-5k intervals can extend engine life and reduce wear. Videos on UA-cam show the difference between engines with 10k and 3k oil changes, with the former having significant varnish and soot buildup. Engine oil cools the engine, but soot buildup decreases its effectiveness, causing increased friction and heat. This might lead to oil burning. But yes the oil can last & also the damage that’s caused by changing at 10k. I do 3k on my vehicle.
Amsoil has data sheets posted on line for all of their oils. Some data can be found on line by typing the oil brand and type, followed by “msds”. FYI
Why? You will not understand the data or be able to make informed decision anyway. 😂
@@Regulated-Liability-NetworkAnd remember kids, if it’s on UA-cam, it must be true! 😂😂😂
This seems to only work when you are exclusively driving highway miles. This would not work in stop-and-go city driving.
Yes sir
@@krystal5887 Exactly, short trippers, grossery getters, aunt Wilma, soccer moms think they can run a full year of fuel diluted oil.
They also test taxi cabs in Vegas
@@mindcontrol31 did they go the full 20k miles per oil change? Cuz the engines from my understanding didnt really last any longer than their typical lifespan
he said they account for that @ 14:47
Synthetics are the way to go with most gasoline and diesel engines.
In the mid 1980s through the late 1990s we ran Amsoil in our company vans (Dodge 318). We would change the oil every 20,000 miles with an oil filter change every 10,000 miles. We were putting 80,000 to 100,000 miles a year on each van and trading them off around 400,000 miles.
We NEVER had an oil related problem with any engine we just preformed normal maintenance and replaced the timing chain every 150,000 miles (we found that the timing chains would stretch and jump a tooth around 160,000 miles, it was cheaper to just replace it before it happened as opposed to the downtime out on the road)
Once our supply of Amsoil ran out we switched to Mobil 1 with the same results.
In 1998 we started switching over to Dodge Trucks with the 5.9 Cummins Diesel we ran Mobil Delvac 1 which is a Synthetic Oil for Diesel Engines. We changed oil every 25,000 miles with a filter change around 12,500 miles. My company truck 1998 3500 was traded off at 289,000 miles after fifth gear went out for the fifth time (design flaw with the NV4500 transmission when used at higher gross weights, Truck was routinely hauling 20,000 lbs or more)
It would be interesting to know why, after all those years of using Amsoil with no problems, you decided to switch to another brand.
I would like to see change filter wihout drain oil from block🍺
30-20 years ago engines were build with cast iron, oil canals were not that small, lot of parts were designed to last long. Now there are many types of metal used for engine build, they heat up differently which means expand different and in different time. Oil canals are often smaller in diameter which requires better and more often changed oil. When you do long distances engine wears sgnificantly less. You can do with same car 400 k miles in 10 years and have better condition engine than 100k but short distances like 5 miles each
Nunya Biznis he said ONCE HIS SUPPLY RAN OUT, then he used MOBIL1
@Nunya Biznis, I'm guessing Amsoil didn't have a diesel oil at the time.
Very informative but the average person cannot comprehend all that you presented.
I am a retired Cat, Cummins, Cleveland and etc. mechanic and understand all to well what you presented.
Back in 1972 I started using Mobile Delvac 15/40 in all my own personal engines; a diesel oil in gas engines.
I had a Briggs & Stratton 3 & 1/2 hp mower that lasted 24 years on that oil and a 2.5 GM 4 cyl. that survived 300,000 miles on Delvac 15/40.
Today I use Shell Rotella 5/40 synthetic in both my vehicles which both have over 130,000 mile and do not use oil between oil changes. And my oil changes are between 10,000 to 12,000 miles with oil filter change at mid stream. Oh yes I predominantly use Baldwin oil filters.
Really interesting and in-depth. I didn’t know oil companies went through this much testing. I hate to admit that I just can’t do long drain intervals. I break out in hives if my oil has more than 5,000 miles on it. Can’t do it.
That's a good plan. Engines cost more than oil 🤣
Oil manufactures love you
@@michaelburton mate my car has 120'000miles and had oil changes every 19'000miles. Long life actually works
@@v12-s65 what about the small metal shaving off over time?
@@saltymain stuck in the oil pan or filter... where else haha- if it works it works. It's not my car (company) and it runs hella smooth
I change oil and car every 2 years and wife every 4 years whatever come first.
You must really like watching all your money go bye-bye... 😂😂😂
What about the mileage? And on the car, too
@Phil Perri Rent Boys?
boomer: "marriage"
noone: AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH
I look forward to replacing your engines!
For me those 22minutes and 17 seconds where very well spend! Very interesting!
Really appreciate it, thank you Eduard!
Pat Goss suggests basing the oil change schedule on engine run-time rather than distance travelled, so it's interesting to see Mobil using viscosity vs run-time as one of their measures. What's your opinion on the idea? It makes sense that distance alone isn't an ideal measure, as it doesn't account for time spent idling, and it's notable that the "severe" and "normal" schedules often correspond to similar run-times (e.g. severe: 6000 km / (40 km/hour) = 150 hours, normal: 12000 km / (80 km/hour) = 150 hours).
If I understood it, they didn't account for regular cold starts either.
Thanks to you and Mobil 1 for the informative video!!!! I'm glad you addressed the fact that owners CAN NOT exceed the manufacturers oil change requirements while under warranty. Otherwise it will void the warranty.
Billie Bob Norton III
That is a legal issue not a technical one.
Legal only, technical not.
The only time your warranty will get voided is if your engine breaks and they ask you to prove that you changed your oil according to their interval. If you had it done there, no problem. Just don't get caught without confirmed proof that you changed it according to their schedule. If you changed it yourself, you have to retain all your receipts for purchasing the oil. If it was changed by a third party shop, keep all their receipts showing the oil purchased and their work to change it. Until you apply for engine repair warranty work, however, they have no knowledge if you followed the warranty verbatim or not.
Or just buy a KIA they warranty everything
If the engine fails, it has to be proven that it was the oil’s fault with extended drain intervals that it failed for the mfg to void the warranty. Amsoil will cover your engine if it failed due to Amsoil failing when used as directed.
This was great, working in the engineering industry I understand the level of rigour behind the testing before designs/products see the real world. It was good to see how it’s done in other sectors
Happy to hear it, thanks!
I'm sold on the oil quality. I personally wouldn't go over 10,000 miles with this oil but the peace of mind would be nice.
Same, i dont doubt the quality, i just couldnt bring myself to not change my oil for that long, it would become a mental problem for me
I know a person who did 50 000 miles oci on conventional oil 6 times! Engine was still running good.
I been using it since it was rated for 15k.. I waited until 6-7k and would swap it. So I change it halfway through
Please make a video for Pennzoil's motor oil made form natural gas!
...and natural gas is made from oil...lol!
It's very good! Almost rivaling amsoil signature series for 60% the cost. Just got some for 5.99 online
I started using Pennzoil Platinum because natural gas is a lot cleaner than crude oil. I am starting to use the Wal Mart synthetic in everything now because It is good and I am getting cheap in my old age. I don't have anything that won't outlast me. I'm still using Delo 400 15-40 in the old tractor. Everything I own with an oil pump has either a Motor Guard or Gulf Coast bypass filter. Everything is based on using filters that don't clean oil then draining the dirty oil. I got wise to that racket in 1963. I still don't drain oil. I changed the filters more often in the 60s.
The natural gas is used to make hydrogen, that is used to purify the molecular chains of the natural hydrocarbon. This result is a smooth molecule without kinks and removal of impurities that would allow the molecule to break down sooner.
@@dan62273 You don't make natural gas out of oil.
I enjoy learning from your videos so much. To understand something is great...to be able to convey it in a way that the non-engineer like myself can not only understand it, but then want to learn even more is another. Thank you so much for the time and effort you put into each video.
My success with Mobil 1:
1982 Honda Accord had 300,000 miles when I traded it in.
1994 Acura Legend had 320,000 miles when ZI sold it.
2001 2500 Dodge Ram (used for towing) modified with Banks twin-turbo, intake & exhaust had 450,000 when I sold it.
2013 Toyota Highlander Hybrid has 90,000 & runs like new (26 mpg) no mechanical problems.
2016 Toyota Tundra has 95,000 & runs like new (17 mpg) no mechanical issues
2020 Subaru Ascent will be getting the Mobile 1 treatment as well after 1,000 miles oil change (done), 2,000 miles oil change, 2,000 miles oil change, 5,000 miles oil change (4 oil changes by 10,000 miles) - then every 10,000 miles.
Interesting. With Hondas they say don't change the oil until 5,000? A video someone had an oil expert and he said the first 100 miles of an engine causes the most wear and metal filings. So he said at 100 miles REPLACE the factory break in oil with fresh break in oil then change it again at 1,000 with regular oil. What do you think?
My VW Beetle, back in the 70s or 80s, i used Mobil 1 in it and never changed the oil, just replaced what dripped out. It didn't even have a filter, just a mesh oil bath filter. I finally gave it away because rust was killing it. It had over 300,000 miles on it and those were mainly NYC miles, and the engine still ran like new.
Maybe enough dripped out that you ended up replacing the oils in the engine over a short time period.
@@Emphasis213 No, the oil loss was quite slow.
Did 20,000 miles per change with Mobil 1 in the 80s. Changed filter every 5,000 and added a quart. At 100,000 did a valve job. No perceptible ridge. Internals squeeky clean. Chicago driving including -20 winters and rush hour stop and go. VW Golf.
I'm currently on 15k miles with the 20k miles of said oil. Been checking it and so far so good!
Ssengel69. What do you mean by "checking it"?
probably just tasting it.
you know like cooking lol
I have no doubt that it will perform just as it did in the Mobil tests. The only way to check the oil, however, is to send a sample of it to a testing lab for analysis.
Thanks for the video EE! Just wanted to say I appreciate how objective and informative this was. It's great to have a source of cold, hard facts, rather than speculation and anecdotes.
Thank you thank you!! I agree completely. :)
I love your videos, you explain everything very well, making it easier to understand, if someone else tried explaining this, it would probably go over my head.
Happy to hear it, that's the goal! Glad you enjoyed it!
This has got to be one of the best videos I ever watched on UA-cam! Thank you! And much respect to Mobil for showing you a lot of internal information about their testing processes!
Man, so much work went into this video.
Indeed it did, probably 8-10 full days of work haha. Really appreciate you all watching!
1. Buy 90s Toyota
2. Never change oil
3. Inifinte mile oil
😂
4. Never get laid
Real story, Honda Civic with 3 oil changes 60000 miles! Lady had to buy new engine, not a good idea.
as the owner of a 1994 toyota scepter, I am pretty sure these engines are made of unobtanium. My room mate drove the stupid thing 140 km without a drop of coolant in it, and somehow the stupid thing is fine
uhg, for anyone wondering, the scepter is a station wagon camry.
As a chemical engineer your explanation of ICP and FTIR made me happy. Spot on sir, spot on! Well done
Haha, could have done a whole episode on ICP, it was fascinating to learn about! FTIR was a bit more challenging for me to grasp, using vibration and what wavelengths are missing to determine chemical properties. I was lost a bit haha, but it's very cool what the devices are capable of!
I use AA spectroscopy. Single element at a time. Used to do all my own calibration curves by hand and maximize absorbance by hand. Now the machine does it all for me. I miss the old days of classical analysis, titration and distillation.
For any chemist, it's like where babies come from. Seems lost on most graduating analytical chemists now. The technology does all the thinking for you.
Ive been doing it for years. After the synthetic recalibration that gixed the seal failures. (Its wasnt synthetic oil but the switching between conventional and synthetic or mixing them that was causing the failures.)
The filters will fail before the oil so you change the filter and top the oil off. This is something you do at home, no shop will do it for you. They will do a total oil change.
What about the impact on catalytic converters over the 20000 mile period? Does the oil tend to clog the converters more as the miles go up?
Depends on your particular driving conditions and habits and type of oil additive used .
Like food grade cooking oil
motor oil degrades and breaks down eventually has to be changed .
I started using this oil in my 2010 Honda Accord 2.4 Liter 4 Cylinder Engine when the car reached 75,000 miles. I have been changing the oil every 15k miles since. The car now has 250,000 Miles and the engine is still running like new. This oil is fantastic and does exactly what it claims. I also live in Colorado where there are extremes in temperatures at both ends of the spectrum. I recommend also using the Mobil 1 extended performance filter if you decide to go with this oil.
What about your filter? Do you change it early?im more concerned with the filter getting so dirty it restricts flow.
@@REDVETTExxx
I use Wixx... Never had a problem
I do exactly the same. I purchased 20,000 mile Mobile-1 oil. I can only push it to 15,000 for some reason. I just can't take it to the 20k. Haha. It doesn't feel right.
I do mine at 5K miles, or 6 months, whichever comes first, never beyond that.
K series don't need oil...
Glad you mentioned at the end about still needing to check your oil level during that year. Most people dont realize that especially modern day engines have an acceptable amount of oil burning duration that an oil pan cant make up for in 20,000 miles. For example, most Chrysler engines consider an engine with over 50,000 miles, can burn up to a quart of oil in 900 miles. This is their acceptable amount. So your average 5qt to 6qt engine will run itself dry in 6 months, not counting the damage occurring due to running low on oil to even get to that point.
Burning a quart of oil every 1,000 miles in insane keep your oil changed between 3,500 and, 5,500 or every 6 months whichever comes first and your engine should not use any oil. I'm a mechanic with 35 years experience in rebuilding engines . I don't care what the manufacturer says just make sure to use the manufacturer recommended oil
@@russellsexton4771 if you are currently a mechanic on modern vehicles, than it should be no surprise for you to see engines having low oil between intervals. Even using manufacturer suggested spec oil.
How can anyone dislike this video? The amount of time and effort poured into something like this is no joke!!
Thank you once again for an awesome video Jason!!
Appreciate the kind words, thanks for watching POWERMAN!
Well maybe it spills mobilevil's marketing all over the place.. if they really want high changing intervals they would go with a car manufacturer instead of marketing blubbblubb. Make it standard on an modern engine and then if the owners reach high mileage despite rare oil changes then you have a market...
Looks like an impressive product.
Much respect to Mobil 1 !
I've been doing 1 year interval oil changes for almost 10 years with no issues. Amsoil has had such oil for sale for a while now. I currently use Mobile One though because it's so much cheaper. Still running the Amsoil filters though - Mobile One ones aren't readily available yet.
Dennis Kapatos I get mobil 1 filters from advance auto all the time
Dennis Kapatos What vehicle?
Eric Vilendrer - It's a 2010 Altima but I ran it in my Accord for a few years before that I think. That was a while ago so my memory may not be so good.
Devin Stambolziovski - Maybe they are now but the annual ones weren't available last I checked. Either that or they weren't yet rated for 12k miles.
Dennis Kapatos After 40 yrs of driving I've never done anything but yearly, or longer, oil changes on my cars. I've never used anything but mid grade oils and filters. To date, never an engine failure or other issue related to engine oil. People worry way to much.
Very good information here. Amsoil has been doing the same thing since 1972. Also Amsoil supports extended drain intervals, even when your vehicle is under warranty. And great advice about checking your oil level frequently. Very important.
Amsoil is a true group4 100% synthetic. and Mobile 1 is a blend.
This is really insightful video! I hope you can make more of these videos to show people what engineers do and educate more...hell at this point i don't mind u make a lot of sponsored videos if your feature videos are this good!
Thank you, really appreciate it! So much time went into putting this together, and it's a result of everyone asking questions on the first video about the product. I used to work as a test engineer, so seeing another facility, and the ability to share that information exclusively with my audience (as far as I'm aware, this is the first time much of this data is public) is super cool to me!
I'd just add a bypass filter and change the oil every 30k km or so.
These types of videos is the reason I subscribed to your channel. Good stuff man
Well put together video for us Master Diplomaless viewers. I enjoyed it fully and helped understand more how oil is actually made and how each kind of oil is different, especially in the comparison of the high mileage, synthetic and M1 annual. Great info.
I just watched a 22 minute commercial about engine oil... And loved it.
Great PROFESSIONAL review without the BS and bashing of others. This is how a proper review should be and not like the others who even touch on (make fun of) irrelevant subjects ( people, religion etc)
Glad you enjoyed it, thank you for watching!
Currently at 133,000 miles (and I only used Mobil 1 from the first oil change) on my Kia Optima and I change my oil every 10k to 15k with either Mobil 1 or Napa Platinum oil filter. As a mechanic of 35 years plus, just like he said towards the end is check your fluids. Many people fail to check their levels to find low engine oil among other levels.
Still have the kia? 🤔
@@michaelburton Yes, going on almost 200k! So far only other thing it was a must replace wat the left wheel bearing hub which was making noise, so I did both.
I'm 10k changes, oil is still "gold" and smells great, engine is not taking much oil so all is good for me.
What did they do to simulate the thousands of cold starts? which is were most engine wear occurs.
They purposely left that out. Of course. Lab testing is not real life testing.
@@ZzzRoofus It was not left out if you paid attention. It was explained that in engine testing, external cooling cycles of 20°C simulate cold starts of the engine. He explains that at the 12:30 mark.
Paid for by Mobil
This is some great stuff I’m so happy I ran up on your channel and this video I’ve been so curios about if this was really legit or not! I do use Mobile 1 in my truck and always change at 5,000 but I really appreciate your time and work doing this for us! Thank you
What is not addressed here is the kind of short trip driving where the oil never gets heated beyond 100 degrees Cent long enough to drive out the moisture. I would like to hear about oil that stands up to that problem.
If there is no such oil, then how often and how long do you need to run the oil "hot" to get the moisture out of it?
andrew domenitz Andrew, after having had a car that my wife drove 2 miles a day, it NEVER GOT WARM, I could not keep up with the oil changes, but I drove it on weekends,as I drove a company van, event Lu after several years it developed some engine problem, junked it .my current car a 2013 Ford TAURUS , I run a different synthetic, but even there a few chores, I’ll drive it until it gets up to normal operating temp,,before parking it , it only has 26K on it but will be on my next oil change in a a few k, I bought it with 21 k on it.
@@flybyairplane3528 I try to get up to at least 200 F. So I drive more, and I really do not mind it since I am driving a 2004 Corvette base coupe with upgraded sway bars. That's all. No silly mods, with 45K on the clock. I do not drive fast or anything at my age. 66 yrs old now and have not spoken to a cop in 10 yrs. I do go a little fast but nothing like a kid would do.
Not looking to wear it out. Accelerate normally, brake normally, but sometimes when the circumstances allow I like to take a brisk curve here and there. Just trying to enjoy it.
Always a gear head when younger and I have learned a little. Thanks for your input. Happy motoring.
andrew domenitz that’s known as extreme condition - see your manual - shorten your service interval.
My car burns so much oil, that the full displacement is changed before 10k 🤣
Vlad Nazarenko been there 😂 I changed the oil filter after a whole 2 years because the new oil would always burn ... don’t do what I did change your filter at least when it’s due
@@mfgallonjaust7171 I changed my filter after 3 years and it was all sludged up 😂
Andrea that’s horrible 😂 mine at least was brown ish black and smelled heeella burnt
Self-changing oil
I had one that did that in 1000 miles! But it ran good, and I was broke, and I drove it for a long time. Finally, transmission problems killed it.
Something tells me that if I'm using their oil and only changing it every 20,000 miles and my engine blows up they won't be paying for a replacement. They can make all the claims they want. I would never go 20,000 miles between oil changes.
Yeah you gotta be smart. $30 for oil change vs. $3000 for a new engine. Hmm, decisions decisions
Spend $40 per oil change 3-4 times a year vs. a $7500 engine....
Nah. I will change oil every 5k miles regardless of claims.
These days, with cheap dyi oil change pumps, you can make a 15min oil change if you want (same filter). Been doing that every other year.
He did state that the engine manufacturers determine the oil change interval. So I don't see anything wrong with an engine oil having a longer service life. But would I want to chance that, not at all.
Look at 0W-20 used now, that's a winter oil used year round. Nothing wrong with that in my opinion. But it got questioned hard.
Trucking companies have engine oil samples taken and analyzed frequently. High mileage engines that show abnormal characteristics such trace main and rod bearing material, trace coolant and other contaminants of wear etc in the engine oil get rebuilt depending on the tractors age and so on. So a refresh rebuild maybe gives a rig in good shape another 1 M plus miles or they can flog the rig before even a planned less costly repair.
If I was going to do 20 K miles on engine oil I'd want to do oil sampling. And maybe swap out the oil filter at 10 k miles.
If I had a good beater that I was driving and the engine is A OK and I checked it over, maybe I'd try that. Hey 5 oil changes in 100 K miles not bad. But not doing that with my good ride. OEMs recommended oil change is quite high now, mainly because its sells a vehicle with less maintenance required, like iridium spark plugs. But for my money and experience I change the hell outa the O&F and do a complete ATF change out way before a recommended or partial one.
Treat it right and ittl reward you with reliability. Otherwise???
I use the 15k oil(extended performance) and change it every 10k miles or annually whichever is earlier.
Edit: my Honda just hit 100k miles with 10k intervals since the day I got it new
My wife only puts 3K mi/yr on her 2017 Jetta so it only gets one oil change a year. Manufacturer interval is 10K but that would be three years between oil changes! Not going to wait THAT long.
Good. Thinking, it turns to sludge pretty quickly
David Thatcher
Whichever comes first The year would be your oil change.
True, I suck the oil up from the stick tube and it was thick as hell when I waited too long. Turned into slime 😅
@@richterman3962
Quality _fully_ synthetic does not turn to sludge.
It’s always km/miles or time - whichever comes first. Eg. 20000 km or miles. Or 12 months. Common sense people.
Another excellent video from Engineering Explained. There is no doubt that oil technology has improved hugely since I became a motorist in 1983. However, I still feel that long oil change intervals are not going to help an engine live a long and happy life. I change my engine oil based on its colour and 'finger feel', this translates to about 4 to 7k miles - even though the service interval for my current car (2005 Mercedes m271 engine) is 10k miles. Your video clearly shows us how harsh the environment in an engine is, fresh, clean, quality oil must be a good option for your engine.
Finger feel. lol That is scientific AF!
Throw all science and facts out the window. This dude can 'feel' when it needs a change.
@Not Hitler yes. New oil is gold color and when it gets old it becomes dark and sometimes even black
the m271 needs earlier oil changes to prevent timing chain issues
Thanks I really appreciate all this detailed information! You explain it so well!
I have been using Mobil 1 since I saw a Univ. of Rolla engineering report on Mobil qq in 1978.
Mobil 1
I used this. It evaporated faster than any oil I have ever used. I was adding a quart about every 3000 miles.
Extended oil drain is normal in Europe these days the days of 3000 mile oil changes is long over unless you own a lube shop.
Well.... Using a crap conventional, with a crap filter - 3k intervals leave a safe margin. Even then, some engines would still sludge-up over time. Prolly most watching this vid are more inclined to take better than the crappiest care of their equipment though, I’d surmise.
Just be especially wary of the $10 oil change special, down at your local “Goofy Lube” haha!
You mentioned oil consumption at the end, but you did NOT mention what happens during the MADS testing if/when an engine requires more oil during that 20k mile interval. Assuming they did not run the engine on low oil volume, some quantity of makeup oil has to be added, which as luck would have it, fixes a lot of ailments an oil running for 20k miles might start to develop.
I used to run Mobil1 in all of my vehicles until a reformulation caused it to increase oil consumption to 2-3x the rate it had prior. This wasn't just in one engine, this was across several platforms: 6L powerstroke, 4.6L V8, 3.9L V8, 5.4l V8... not mine, but related, 4L explorer and whatever V6 was in an Escape. Engine mileages varied from 20 to 80k miles... and the consumption increase was a function of time, all right around spring early summer. We all were scratching our heads. A change of oil brand eliminated the additional consumption back to normal previous levels.
With the purchase of 14 E63 AMG s model, it required 0w40 oil, initially M1 was the only offering and it too succumbed to the same problem of high consumption. Switched to Castrol GTX, and it dropped significantly. Still higher than any other motor I maintain, but that 5.5L twin turbo puts out more as well on the thinnest oil of any motor I maintain.
I no longer use Mobil1 in any application. I refuse to pay top dollar for a product that evaporates.
Wow, never been more sold on an oil type in my life. Great job with the video!
I've changed my oil every 10k miles back in the late 90s with the regular mobile 1 full synthetic...I'm concerned about running it to 20k... nice video
The new Mobil 1 Annual Protection is no where near the same formula as standard Mobil 1. Did you watch the video?
James Koralewski did you read my comment? i said Mobil 1 full synthetic. not Standard Mobil 1...
All oils, branded Mobil 1, have always been a full synthetic oil. I didn't say standard Mobil oil, that would have referred to a non synthetic oil. I said standard Mobil 1, which refers to the first formula of Mobil 1 when the synthetic oil line of Mobil oils was invented in the seventies. There sell several formulas of Mobil 1 for sale at this time and the Mobil 1, mentioned in the video, is their latest formula and is called Mobil 1 Annual Protection.
James Koralewski cool, i
mis-understood then
Using a magnetic sump plug is a simple way of checking if your oil is lubricating properly i.e. A lot of metal on the plug is bad and a small amount is good.
A drop test of the oil can also give you some indication of how well it is lubricating
🙂
There really shouldn’t be any metal on the magnet if your engine is sound.
There is always metal in the oil eg. ~17.52 min where they graph the wear in ppm
Thus there is always some iron (Fe) on a magnetic sump plug.
The best you can hope for is that the amount of iron on the sump plug is minimal.
If there was no metal on the sump plug the engine would not be wearing... and that obviously doesn't happen.
Please take a look at a car oil analysis if you're in any doubt that there is ferrous metal in the oil.
🙂
P.S. Perhaps you're thinking of a non-magnetic sump plug? i.e. Most cars don't have magnetic sump plugs.
@@MichaelCzajka Yes, I’ve always known there is wear metals in the oil, but I wouldn’t want to be able to see or feel it.
If an oil analysis shows iron then you'll also see it on a magnetic sump plug at oil change time. The magnet picks up about 50% of the circulating ferrous metal. The oil filter would remove any bigger chunks of metal over ~40 micron and the magnet would pick up any metal smaller than whatever is being filtered.
When the oil changes colour and becomes darker part of the colour change is due to the wear metals in the oil.
If you rub the stuff on the magnet between your fingers you should be able to feel the metal particles.
Have you seen what the build-up of metal on a magnetic sump plug looks like?
I can post links to examples of sump plugs with low and high wear if you like?
🙂
@@MichaelCzajka yes that would be cool to post the pics. I think I have seen it before; it’s so fine that it turns your fingers black? Also, I would like to know how to post a picture. Never been able to figure that one out. 😆
Great Videos, I truly appreciate the amount of effort you put into your videos!
Thank you thank you!!
No problem man!
I would never let my car go that long without an oil change. Every 4-5k miles change the oil and filter with full synthetic and youll be good. My last car said change the oil every 12k miles and I still did it every 5k. After 10 years I took it in for mods and the techs said the engine was spotless and really healthy.
A complex topic presented in a easy to understand and logical format. Keep up your great work. Happy New Year.
Thanks Christopher, and happy new year!
been changing the oil with mobil synthetic on my 2004 sienna on 12-15k miles intervals. has 174000 miles car runs like new
Because its toyota. I have frensh cartoon car ( peugeot ) i change oil every 6 k miles. At 90 000 miles i had many many problems.
wont work on Fiats~Fix it Again Tony!
I change the oil on my smart car every 10k miles. 115k and still going strong. The oil change is roughly 3% of what the entire car is worth so the savings matter lol.
Get a Honda and Subaru and the level drops with consumption you would be adding new and eventually only have to do a filter swap!
As a Subaru owner I can confirm that oil does not stay in it long enough for a factory service interval.
@@procrastinator1842 Where the heck is it going? It's not like you're running a rotary with leaky gaskets.
@@raindropbebop Ring failure.
I once bought a new 2004 Honda Accord. It was the worst vehicle I ever owned. I'll never own another Honda vehicle. Toyotas one the other hand, have been great vehicles for me. My 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee has been a great vehicle as well. I bought it new and it still runs like new today.
Honda accord 4cyl here....quart per thousand mi. How does it not smoke??
Well, I bought a 1991 Silverado with a 5.7L (350 CID) engine in 2011 with 84K miles on it for $2,900. Farmer didn't have to drive to work and obviously didn't get off the farm too often. I pulled about a pound of sludge out of the valve covers and off the top of the cylinder heads and rocker arms. Oil change sticker indicated the oil in in at that time had about 14,500 miles on it. Plain old Pennzoil conventional. Drove it for 23K miles and replaced the intake manifold gasket and pulled maybe two pounds of sludge out of the lifter valley. The distributor was about frozen, could barely turn it by hand so I replaced the distributor. I'm still driving it and would estimate that in the first 20 years it had maybe one or two oil changes. Some farmers top off their engines with what they have on the farm, good old 15W40 diesel motor oil. Likely how it has survived before my TLC took over in 2011.
Pennzoil or Quaker State
When I did my intake manifold on my 95 Silverado 10 15 years ago it had what looked like charcoal sitting down in the motor
19:18 lol, Chevy, just no burden highway miles and transmission needs replacement?
I was thinking the same thing, and I am a diehard GM guy.
If my tranny needs replacement at 300k and my engine keeps on strongly for 500k miles and beyond, that's not exactly a bad deal of a truck.
300k with no fluid changes is really good for a transmission in a light duty truck. The engine probably would have lasted another 500k miles which is really good.
I think it is important to note that the oil change interval set by the manufacturer and in the owner's manual doesn't only apply to the vehicle while it is under warranty, but rather for the life of the car.
Not True. The interval listed in your manual is only demanded and required during the warranty period. After that, it is only listed as a recommendation and you are not required to go by that interval listed any longer. If you're out of warranty and don't go by his numbers, what is he going to do to you, take away your birthday? Once your car is out of warranty, you can change it as often as you think is necessary to keep the engine protected. Of course, the dealer wants you to go by this frequent interval so he can sell you his oil more frequently and charge you as much as he wants to charge. If the warranty is over and you don't go by the owner's manual, what is the dealer going to do to you, take away your birthday?
"So, we're gonna be talking about ICP..."
I was very worried for a brief moment.
No clowns here! 🤡
LOL
Engineering Explained ayyyye LMAO
Fuggin oil, how does it work?
Gotta get some of that 10w-30 Faygo
My 1986 Chevrolet C10 with the 350 V8 (5.7L) came with a factory oil change interval of 7,500 miles and a filter change interval of 15,000 miles.
Very thorough! I am always interested in oil technology. Having rebuilt many engines and seen the inside of them under various treatment by their owners I can fully appreciate what the engineers have done over the last century. There are still vintage car owners who insist on 30W non-detergent and I can't agree at all especially after knowing this kind of information.
This was amazing. Always wondered how they claim those numbers and now I know. Great job
I'm sceptical when manufacturers use round numbers. One year is very round. Also 20k per year intervals seems to be solving a problem few people have. My problem that I would love to see solved is longer time intervals.
oil will actually last for 365.395 days and 20,004.58759 miles
I think it's a big round number because it's just guidance. There is so much variability between how people drive and driving conditions. Someone who does tons and tons of short trips should really be changing oil more frequently vs someone who does long highway trips (where oil gets hot hot and burns off any moisture). The best way to get a sense of what YOU should be doing is send off used oil for some oil analysis (Blackstone Labs does this for reasonable price I think) -> then you get your oil analysis and can gauge the oil breakdown and metals in the oil to see if you want to adjust your interval.
Were OEM oil filters used in the engines? Did the Lexus engine use an OEM Toyota/Lexus filter and if not what filter was used? How do I know if the fikter used meets manufacturer's specs? Toyota specifies flow rate as being more important than filtering capability.
Can you do this test for Amsoil signature series?
Onix Junes Check out Project Farm
Excellent video. I've wondered what goes into the testing to oils and you've really pulled back the curtain so to say. One minor nitpick: "vaporized, atomized, and finally ionized" -> atomization is the suspension of liquid droplets in air and vaporization is conversion to liquid into gasses. So it would be atomized first then vaporized. I suspect you know this, however, and given the length and breadth of the material presented, it was likely just a phrasing error and not a knowledge one. :)
I understand if you aren't able to answer this question, but would you trust that oil in your engine for 20,000 miles? I trust your opinion, so I figured I would ask. Great video as always!
OhighO Skater He liked or replied to almost every comment except this
No reply yet ????
OhighO Skater allowed......
That, is the question. I wouldn't go anymore than 8 to 10 k personally.
So how does lowering the temp simulate a cold/dry start. The wear comes from when the oil has drained from the parts. The cold/cooler oil cannot simulate a dry start.
cuz that video is a bs, only time will tell if oil can last up to 20k miles (i dont think so) but who cares if ur engine lasts for 100k or 100 000k miles. The only thing companies care is $$$