Dang. Doing your own oil changes used to be simple. I really like the canister for how easy it is to change and the fact that there is no mess but, was totally unaware that I could screw this up...
Do you realize there’s no mess because all the oil drains back into the sump after engine is shut off …no anti drain back valve. This gives dry starts every time cause it takes abt 4 seconds for the oil pump to reprime the filter, oil cooler, etc. Guess why these engines have so many trashed cams and rollers. Best use a Baxter adapter and full syn oil if u want it to last.
2017 Ram 1500 Big Horn 3.6L Great information!!!. I always had a small drip over the last 3 years that I could never figure out, then after this last oil change, it started leaking crazy from a release valve? on topside of engine...so after 3 days of leaving "oil trails" in the neighborhood, I came across this video.🤦🏾♂️
The oil cap is stamped with a torque spec of 25 Nm (18 ft./'lbs). Overtightening the filter cap can result in damage to the oil filter/cooler housing in the form of cracks, or disturbing the housing O-rings, promoting leakage. The simple tightening procedure may save hundreds of dollars in unnecessary repairs. That is why I always use torque wrench to tighten the oil cap, no more than 25 Nm.
Yup exactly. From day one of ownership of my 15 Durango 3.6 I put a white sharpie on the filter cap for reference. And most importantly no one changes my oil but me. I'm 60 now and I'll keep doing it until I can't move anymore. Those 5 minute oil change places are responsible for more Dodge oil coolers failing than anything else.
Have you noticed when using your torque wrench the 18ftlbs is just barely over hand tight ? Maybe the hand tight, 1/4 turn rule actually applies here 🤷 I also use a torque wrench on mine, both a digital and a mechanical... I they would have kept the metal screw on system...
Also keep in mind the earlier filter o-ring is a different gauge than the later filter o-ring. We had a later model jeep in for service. Their regular mechanic bought and installed a cap for an earlier model year. We installed a later model year filter and oring. The (incorrect) earlier model cap was leaking immediately. We opened an other model filter box and installed that o-ring. No more leaking.
I got a 3.8L 2011 wrangler Thank God it`s got a can oil filter which has been around for over 50 years They seem to have nothing but problems with this type of filter You can over torque the plastic cap which will crack the plastic causing it to leak oil cooler which the filter housing rests in is a piece of junk it leaks oil also when the rubber o-rings fail Plastic is cheaper than metal but over time plastic dries out from heat and becomes brittle Maybe the engineers need to re-think this and bring back the can filter which works
I went through four different Dorman caps to find one that did not have messed up threads. I called Dorman and they are aware of the problem. They said there was a bad run of them, but they made it out in the market.
I replaced my oil filter assembly in the fall. Got cold below 30 and the P06DD codes have begun. After the oil warms up, the oil light vanishes, engine stays in limp mode. A quick reset with the diagnostic tool and i'm fine for the trip. I have bottle of Lucas Engine Stop Leak in the oil that thickened the oil too. Not losing oil anymore. Your video is amazing, explained the theory involved for a diy jack like me. Thanks so much brother.
@@GeneralGP114 I'm ordering Dodge Pressure sensor and throwing in new spark plugs for the sake of taking all that shit off again. I ordered that aluminum oil filter assembly and that pressure sensor included is probably chinese trash. Did you order one from Dodge or gamble with an alleged OEM sensor? Did thickening the oil to 10W-20/30 help? P06DD and PO521 comes up with the weather being warmer. It was throwing PO524's too in the cold. Lol the EVAP P0441 is the only permanent code I get if I run the van all day keeping the engine hot for hours with a Code Reset here and there. I'd ignore all this shit if the Limp Mode engine fault wasn't fucking with highway driving. The engine is fine ffs.
@seabass9064 I also ordered the whole oli filter assembly, changed it cleared the code p06dd. Code came back still doing the same thing . So went to a local auto store brought another switch . Swapped it out..same thing . I was ready to order a oil pump it self and change that seeing if it helped. I definitely don't have oil leaking anymore from the oil filter cooling assembly.
I see that Dorman (along with a host of Chinese no-names) now provides a replacement valve fix for older housings with the valve built into the housing.
Me too except that my 16 Town&Country cams and rockers were worn down at 97,000 miles and all I used were Mopar oil filters and synthetic oil.@kenik2023
I use Mopar filters for my Jeep and Challenger. Ram for my Cummins Diesel, AC Delco for my Cadillac, Honda for my Goldwing, Indian for my Indian, and so forth. Always have.
Also be aware that the new design has issues other than the crushing. The little plastic bypass valve in the cap is only held in by tiny plastic dogs that hook to a spring. Those can fail causing the bypass valve to fall to the bottom of the filter. This effectively blocks 90% of the oil flow. It will cause a cel that basically says that the oil pump is stuck in low flow. It is important to make sure you find all the pieces if this happens. I had to pull the oil cooler out and remove the little plastic dogs that were in the inlet of the oil cooler. Both designs suck, both can introduce small plastic pieces into you engine. Apparently it can happen fairly quickly because it happened to me on a newer car that only had 30k miles on it. Changed the oil it was fine for about two weeks and then the problem started.
This is quite worrisome. Was this vehicle for all these miles maintained only and entirely by you, or did perhaps someone else had access (Quick-Lube-Center-Service or alike), who may have started to cause this, perhaps by trying to force a wrong model year filter in (as I am sure you know, there are 2x versions). I appreciate your input.
I really like this style because it's easy to access and I can easily see if I've got metal in my filter. I don't think that snap in is on my 24 gladiator though
I've been a performance engine builder for a living for a long long time and you know what I tell people about those tools you can buy that cut open filters so you can look inside of them? DON'T BUY THEM!!! Because all they'll do is cause people to lay awake in their beds at night starting at the ceiling all worried about what they saw in them. First off is how do you know the limit of what's acceptable and what isn't? And even if you do what are you gonna do about it? Tear and engine apart that you don't want to tear apart in the first place? Even if you do learn what's acceptable and then one time there's more than should be what are you gonna do about it anyway? You're gonna run it till it quits anyways so don't worry about it, and honestly, if there is enough that you can see a difference you'll already have bearings knocking, if you don't they probably will be before you can even get it to a shop if there's that much showing inside a filter. Those things are only any good for places that do R&D, in the first place they're really the only people who know what they're looking at and even then it's still the readings from an oil sample is what they base things on. These modern engines with their big timing chains and their tensioners spit out more stuff that winds up in filters that nothing to worry about but has probably caused more heart attacks than gas prices, even little chunks of plastic from the timing chain guide pads and tensioner pads show up in there and people freak out over it, but it's normal, and the timing chains themselves, take the cover off the primary drive of a motorcycle that has a chain primary drive and look all around inside, those are the same chains just shorter and you wouldn't believe the metal that's all over the inside of a primary housing on a bike, and despite what you'll see they typically last the life of the bike, from slivers big enough that you'll get them in your fingers and drive you crazy because it makes them feel like pin cushions to metal so small it makes a gray paste in the bottom of the housing, and engine timing chains usually involve several with them typically being longer than a motorcycle primary chain, along with 2 to 3 times the number of sprockets so yea, those puppies are kicking out all kinds of metal you'll find in your filter but in all reality is perfectly normal for chains like that, and without analyzing the metal particles in a lab you won't know how much of it is from timing chains and how much is from your bearings, that's what you have to worry about, and without being able to tell the difference you'll just worry yourself over nothing. Word of advice, filling oil filters when changing your oil is no myth, starting up an engine with a dry filter shortens engine life, and every time you shut down one of those 3.6 engine's all the oil drains out of the filter, it's a bad design and Chrysler is coming under fire for it, engine's that should go 500,000 mi are going 400,000 and less, a company called Baxter makes a conversion kit that takes a conventional spin on filter and has an anti bleed down check valve in it, the only hitch is the filter is upside-down (compared to how filters typically go on) making it hard to pre fill, so what you do, and you should do it every time you change your filter even if you don't convert it, is crank your engine without it starting until the low oil pressure warning light goes out, the way you can do it on these modern vehicles is by utilizing the "clear flood" feature, to enable it turn on your ignition FIRST (unlike how you normally just press the start button from off, to do that push the start button WITHOUT your foot on the brake, usually the first time you push it it'll be in "accessory", like the old cars when you'd turn the key backwards, then press it again and that's ignition on), then FULLY depress the gas pedal, push the brake then push the start button and it should crank without starting, check to see if your vehicle has a clear flood feature and make sure it's enabled that way (everyone I know of does). Clear flood is in case for some reason the engine gets flooded, it shuts down the injectors so you can crank on it without having more fuel squirting into the cylinders, most manufacturers that are making engine's these days with cartridge oil filters are training their dealer tech's to prime the filters that way before starting them.
The 2016 T&C that I just bought used has the solid-hex cap, and the bypass filter is built into the cap. I guess somehow they used the older filter housing in my car. Of course, all catalogs and guides for my car lead to the wrong filter. I haven't read or heard of this difference anywhere else...so, thanks much.
the bypass valve on my oil filter cap pops off every time I change the oil filter and each time I have to reattach the bypass valve into the cap. Does that mean that the cap is damaged?
As an fca tech for about 10 years know and an owner of a 13 jk I can honestly say I have no idea what your talking about. Not saying your info isn't correct or anything im just saying I have never heard of this problem EVER. I've done thousands of oil changes with these filters, new and old & have NEVER heard of this. What I have experienced is people over tightening the cap like it's a grade 8 bolt or something and they end up cracking the housing which now cost you an oil cooler but I've never heard of or experienced this concern before. Lol. I'll make sure to delete this "info" from my memory.
I agree, but i wish they had used a standard metal screw on filter. I always worry about the plastic housing under the intake as the cap seems to stick when you go to remove it
@@andybub45 the bulletin was posted by NOLN.net, not conducted by Amsoil. This video was made by an Amsoil dealer in order to provide the information to those of whom may not know.
Had dealership change oil the last time, now my oil temp sensor code is on. I bought a new filter and oil cap will add when change the oil again. Will this help?
I’m getting ready to change the oil in my 2019 Ram 1500 with the 3.6L, I found the oil filter’s location that was the first mystery, now, I have a new filter insert I purchased at the dealer and I’m wondering if it’s even the correct insert. How many different types go into the 3.6 do you know?
I am doing an oil change right now and this exact thing happened to me. Removed the cap, turned around to set it down and heard a noise behind me. The I noticed the spring and pieces of the bypass valve lying on the ground and oil splattered everywhere. Trying to find out how it all goes back together.
@@lowriderlifestyle2869 Yeah, I replaced the entire unit in my Chrysler T&C, as well as the ones in my daughter's Dodge Journey and her husband's Ram 1500.
The filter cap and filter housing are different on the earlier Grand Caravans at least, change was in 2014 I think. Earlier ones have a shorter cap and the "nut" on the top is solid . It's also easier to put the gasket in the wrong place on the newer caps.
Just get the oil filter adapter from Baxter to switch over to a traditional screw on filter. No more dry starts. It is pretty pricy though which is a con.
I'm confused, I have a 2018 Ram 1500 3.6 Bighorn and it uses Purolator Filter #PL36135. This filter has no type of valve in it whatsoever, so your saying this required valve is in my cap possibly? Thanks in advance!
So, after watching this video, I want to go check my wife's Chrysler 300's filter to make sure it's on correctly. That being said, I still prefer the filter location/style (top of engine in plastic canister) versus an oil school spin on under the engine.
The Pentastar 3.6l has a known issue with the plastic filter housing cracking at the base. My daughter and son-in-law both drive Chryslers with the 3.6 and both have had their housings cracked by careless oil change mechanics who simply wash their hands of it and say it’s not their fault. Repair shops are quoting $800-$1000 for replacement. Do your own oil changes, be careful when loosening and don’t over tighten.
So every time you change your own oil you have to replace the cap or risk ruining your engine? Then the filters should be built with a new cap integral correct?
I have only ever noticed one screw on style oil filter that didn't have a 25-pound bypass on it. At least. And that was still 17 and 1/2 pounds. Oil filter media will take 25 to 30 lb on a regular basis if it's built properly. I have no idea where you got the idea that oil filters cannot handle more than 13 lb. Ticks me off is why are we going back to canister oil filters when that is a much older design you were way ahead of the game with the screw on oil filter.
Actually the media will handle all flows of oil - 30, 40, 50 lb "passing through at temperature" - what he's talking about is actual restriction.. There's not a single passenger car (non-diesel) oil filter in production that will allow for much more than 13-PSI.. It's written on the manufacturers requirement data. Over those restriction PSI's at the media its self will trigger the bypass valve or spring. Why do you think those bypass valves are in there??
Same here. Been scouring the interwebs for the last 2 weeks and all i can find is changing the oil pump solenoid. I'm hesitant because it was functioning properly before I changed the housing. If you find an answer tag me.
Apparently, All the Pentastar engines have a problem, sometime in their life, with this poorly thought out filter system/placement....This After years of no problems with the "Old Way"on the Older spin on systems.....Happens when they Green Up the work force....
I think people try using the wrong filters and even modifying a filter to fit. I find it upsetting to think trying to remove an old filter from the cap can break it and damage your motor.
Cold start ups? There’s literally no oil in the top end after abt 15 minutes after shutdown in these 3.6 v6. There is no valves to retain oil so every start up is a dry start for about 4 seconds which is why these engines wipe out cams and rollers. Ditch the oem pos filter and get a Baxter anti drain back adapter with a premium WIX can filter.
The flow is the same unless it's extremely cold or the filter is getting old (resin coagulation) - so overtime the amsoil nanofiber will flow better and in cold temps there are no glues or resins to hamper the flow. All a nanofiber.. The other benefit is the capacity to flow ratio..
The o ring on the oil filter cap is on the wrong grooves. There’s a couple wrong ways to put it on that it will leak and only one way to put it on correct so a lot of people actually mess that up
@My Pronoun is WTF Agree 100% By the way, have you ever checked satellite pictures of their company location? I think I am missing a refinery there. If you ask me, it looks more like a bottling operation to me. Spicing up someone else's.
@My Pronoun is WTF If average ambient temps are above 10 degrees F you would never see this. Even if the innerds of the cap are shifted. This was a bulletin via NOLN. Nothing to do with AMSOIL.. This isn't for selling any AMSOIL part so much but to make income from UA-cam and get people arguing about it which works.
I changed the oil filter and few seconds after the spring flew over. Thank you for this video it is very helpful.
Dang. Doing your own oil changes used to be simple. I really like the canister for how easy it is to change and the fact that there is no mess but, was totally unaware that I could screw this up...
Do you realize there’s no mess because all the oil drains back into the sump after engine is shut off …no anti drain back valve. This gives dry starts every time cause it takes abt 4 seconds for the oil pump to reprime the filter, oil cooler, etc. Guess why these engines have so many trashed cams and rollers. Best use a Baxter adapter and full syn oil if u want it to last.
2017 Ram 1500 Big Horn 3.6L Great information!!!. I always had a small drip over the last 3 years that I could never figure out, then after this last oil change, it started leaking crazy from a release valve? on topside of engine...so after 3 days of leaving "oil trails" in the neighborhood, I came across this video.🤦🏾♂️
The oil cap is stamped with a torque spec of 25 Nm (18 ft./'lbs). Overtightening the filter cap can result in damage to the oil filter/cooler housing in the form of cracks, or disturbing the housing O-rings, promoting leakage. The simple tightening procedure may save hundreds of dollars in unnecessary repairs. That is why I always use torque wrench to tighten the oil cap, no more than 25 Nm.
Yup exactly. From day one of ownership of my 15 Durango 3.6 I put a white sharpie on the filter cap for reference. And most importantly no one changes my oil but me. I'm 60 now and I'll keep doing it until I can't move anymore. Those 5 minute oil change places are responsible for more Dodge oil coolers failing than anything else.
Have you noticed when using your torque wrench the 18ftlbs is just barely over hand tight ? Maybe the hand tight, 1/4 turn rule actually applies here 🤷
I also use a torque wrench on mine, both a digital and a mechanical... I they would have kept the metal screw on system...
Also keep in mind the earlier filter o-ring is a different gauge than the later filter o-ring. We had a later model jeep in for service. Their regular mechanic bought and installed a cap for an earlier model year. We installed a later model year filter and oring. The (incorrect) earlier model cap was leaking immediately. We opened an other model filter box and installed that o-ring. No more leaking.
just ran into this problem. thx for the video i wouldnt have found the problem if not for this video
Im in need of help, i changed the whole housing and it came with the new filter but now its giving me a code P06DD
What can i do?
I got a 3.8L 2011 wrangler Thank God it`s got a can oil filter which has been around for over 50 years They seem to have nothing but problems with this type of filter You can over torque the plastic cap which will crack the plastic causing it to leak oil cooler which the filter housing rests in is a piece of junk it leaks oil also when the rubber o-rings fail Plastic is cheaper than metal but over time plastic dries out from heat and becomes brittle Maybe the engineers need to re-think this and bring back the can filter which works
I agree with you 100%
I went through four different Dorman caps to find one that did not have messed up threads. I called Dorman and they are aware of the problem. They said there was a bad run of them, but they made it out in the market.
See what you can find on Ebay. There should be people selling older stock there that was better quality.
I bought a Dorman at O Reilly and it fit fine but my oil pressure is still at 4 psi at idle.
I replaced my oil filter assembly in the fall. Got cold below 30 and the P06DD codes have begun. After the oil warms up, the oil light vanishes, engine stays in limp mode. A quick reset with the diagnostic tool and i'm fine for the trip. I have bottle of Lucas Engine Stop Leak in the oil that thickened the oil too. Not losing oil anymore.
Your video is amazing, explained the theory involved for a diy jack like me. Thanks so much brother.
I'm dealing with that code now ...sucks trying to figure out exactly what it is .
@@GeneralGP114 I'm ordering Dodge Pressure sensor and throwing in new spark plugs for the sake of taking all that shit off again. I ordered that aluminum oil filter assembly and that pressure sensor included is probably chinese trash.
Did you order one from Dodge or gamble with an alleged OEM sensor?
Did thickening the oil to 10W-20/30 help?
P06DD and PO521 comes up with the weather being warmer. It was throwing PO524's too in the cold.
Lol the EVAP P0441 is the only permanent code I get if I run the van all day keeping the engine hot for hours with a Code Reset here and there.
I'd ignore all this shit if the Limp Mode engine fault wasn't fucking with highway driving. The engine is fine ffs.
@seabass9064 I also ordered the whole oli filter assembly, changed it cleared the code p06dd. Code came back still doing the same thing . So went to a local auto store brought another switch . Swapped it out..same thing . I was ready to order a oil pump it self and change that seeing if it helped. I definitely don't have oil leaking anymore from the oil filter cooling assembly.
@seabass9064 so should I try one from dodge first before changing the oil pump ?
@@GeneralGP114 yeah, i never had an oil pump go ever on any car. It feels wrong to try that first.
I have been changing the oil on my Pacifica with different filters, K&N, Mopar, Fram extra guard, and now castrol. I haven’t run into any issues.
I see that Dorman (along with a host of Chinese no-names) now provides a replacement valve fix for older housings with the valve built into the housing.
Been changing the oil on my 14' charger since new and never seen this problem. Also been using the Mopar filter.
Same🤷🏿♂️
Me too except that my 16 Town&Country cams and rockers were worn down at 97,000 miles and all I used were Mopar oil filters and synthetic oil.@kenik2023
I use Mopar filters for my Jeep and Challenger. Ram for my Cummins Diesel, AC Delco for my Cadillac, Honda for my Goldwing, Indian for my Indian, and so forth. Always have.
Also be aware that the new design has issues other than the crushing. The little plastic bypass valve in the cap is only held in by tiny plastic dogs that hook to a spring. Those can fail causing the bypass valve to fall to the bottom of the filter. This effectively blocks 90% of the oil flow. It will cause a cel that basically says that the oil pump is stuck in low flow. It is important to make sure you find all the pieces if this happens. I had to pull the oil cooler out and remove the little plastic dogs that were in the inlet of the oil cooler. Both designs suck, both can introduce small plastic pieces into you engine. Apparently it can happen fairly quickly because it happened to me on a newer car that only had 30k miles on it. Changed the oil it was fine for about two weeks and then the problem started.
This is quite worrisome. Was this vehicle for all these miles maintained only and entirely by you, or did perhaps someone else had access (Quick-Lube-Center-Service or alike), who may have started to cause this, perhaps by trying to force a wrong model year filter in (as I am sure you know, there are 2x versions). I appreciate your input.
I really like this style because it's easy to access and I can easily see if I've got metal in my filter. I don't think that snap in is on my 24 gladiator though
I've been a performance engine builder for a living for a long long time and you know what I tell people about those tools you can buy that cut open filters so you can look inside of them? DON'T BUY THEM!!! Because all they'll do is cause people to lay awake in their beds at night starting at the ceiling all worried about what they saw in them.
First off is how do you know the limit of what's acceptable and what isn't?
And even if you do what are you gonna do about it? Tear and engine apart that you don't want to tear apart in the first place? Even if you do learn what's acceptable and then one time there's more than should be what are you gonna do about it anyway? You're gonna run it till it quits anyways so don't worry about it, and honestly, if there is enough that you can see a difference you'll already have bearings knocking, if you don't they probably will be before you can even get it to a shop if there's that much showing inside a filter.
Those things are only any good for places that do R&D, in the first place they're really the only people who know what they're looking at and even then it's still the readings from an oil sample is what they base things on.
These modern engines with their big timing chains and their tensioners spit out more stuff that winds up in filters that nothing to worry about but has probably caused more heart attacks than gas prices, even little chunks of plastic from the timing chain guide pads and tensioner pads show up in there and people freak out over it, but it's normal, and the timing chains themselves, take the cover off the primary drive of a motorcycle that has a chain primary drive and look all around inside, those are the same chains just shorter and you wouldn't believe the metal that's all over the inside of a primary housing on a bike, and despite what you'll see they typically last the life of the bike, from slivers big enough that you'll get them in your fingers and drive you crazy because it makes them feel like pin cushions to metal so small it makes a gray paste in the bottom of the housing, and engine timing chains usually involve several with them typically being longer than a motorcycle primary chain, along with 2 to 3 times the number of sprockets so yea, those puppies are kicking out all kinds of metal you'll find in your filter but in all reality is perfectly normal for chains like that, and without analyzing the metal particles in a lab you won't know how much of it is from timing chains and how much is from your bearings, that's what you have to worry about, and without being able to tell the difference you'll just worry yourself over nothing.
Word of advice, filling oil filters when changing your oil is no myth, starting up an engine with a dry filter shortens engine life, and every time you shut down one of those 3.6 engine's all the oil drains out of the filter, it's a bad design and Chrysler is coming under fire for it, engine's that should go 500,000 mi are going 400,000 and less, a company called Baxter makes a conversion kit that takes a conventional spin on filter and has an anti bleed down check valve in it, the only hitch is the filter is upside-down (compared to how filters typically go on) making it hard to pre fill, so what you do, and you should do it every time you change your filter even if you don't convert it, is crank your engine without it starting until the low oil pressure warning light goes out, the way you can do it on these modern vehicles is by utilizing the "clear flood" feature, to enable it turn on your ignition FIRST (unlike how you normally just press the start button from off, to do that push the start button WITHOUT your foot on the brake, usually the first time you push it it'll be in "accessory", like the old cars when you'd turn the key backwards, then press it again and that's ignition on), then FULLY depress the gas pedal, push the brake then push the start button and it should crank without starting, check to see if your vehicle has a clear flood feature and make sure it's enabled that way (everyone I know of does).
Clear flood is in case for some reason the engine gets flooded, it shuts down the injectors so you can crank on it without having more fuel squirting into the cylinders, most manufacturers that are making engine's these days with cartridge oil filters are training their dealer tech's to prime the filters that way before starting them.
The 2016 T&C that I just bought used has the solid-hex cap, and the bypass filter is built into the cap. I guess somehow they used the older filter housing in my car. Of course, all catalogs and guides for my car lead to the wrong filter. I haven't read or heard of this difference anywhere else...so, thanks much.
I was told this issue will make OBD throw the P06DD code. That oil pump code
Thats why my jeep is in the shop
The exact reason why I like the older design basically bulletproof
Yes, Spin on filters never had this kind of trouble. Good Grief. Engineers going backwards building 1950's cannister filters.
Thank you for posting I will need to look further into this. I am a DIYer.
Thx for the heads-up!
the bypass valve on my oil filter cap pops off every time I change the oil filter and each time I have to reattach the bypass valve into the cap. Does that mean that the cap is damaged?
As long as you have oil pressure.
How about an STP filter?
why screw up something that has worked to great for years....
As an fca tech for about 10 years know and an owner of a 13 jk I can honestly say I have no idea what your talking about. Not saying your info isn't correct or anything im just saying I have never heard of this problem EVER. I've done thousands of oil changes with these filters, new and old & have NEVER heard of this. What I have experienced is people over tightening the cap like it's a grade 8 bolt or something and they end up cracking the housing which now cost you an oil cooler but I've never heard of or experienced this concern before. Lol. I'll make sure to delete this "info" from my memory.
I agree, but i wish they had used a standard metal screw on filter. I always worry about the plastic housing under the intake as the cap seems to stick when you go to remove it
I agree with you! I think this is B.S.! I think Amsoil is getting desperate.
@@moonbounce Yeah I don’t trust these Amsoil dealers on UA-cam. Lots of fanboyism.
@@andybub45 the bulletin was posted by NOLN.net, not conducted by Amsoil. This video was made by an Amsoil dealer in order to provide the information to those of whom may not know.
Probably if you use the wrong pre 2014 filter in a post 2014 motor.
Does this apply to grand cherokees too?
Are those filters in the video any better than the stock Mopar ones?
Stp filter it well do the same ? And how you fix it 🤔?
Had dealership change oil the last time, now my oil temp sensor code is on. I bought a new filter and oil cap will add when change the oil again. Will this help?
Amazon sells the oil filter with a new filter cap combo for $10, so whenever I do an oil change I just replace both.
Great video, good info, but more importantly, where did you get that little mini pallet holding your sticky notes.
The lady rep with ULINE packing products left it here!
The simple days of a small block Chevy type oil changes are over........
I’m getting ready to change the oil in my 2019 Ram 1500 with the 3.6L, I found the oil filter’s location that was the first mystery, now, I have a new filter insert I purchased at the dealer and I’m wondering if it’s even the correct insert. How many different types go into the 3.6 do you know?
I am doing an oil change right now and this exact thing happened to me. Removed the cap, turned around to set it down and heard a noise behind me. The I noticed the spring and pieces of the bypass valve lying on the ground and oil splattered everywhere. Trying to find out how it all goes back together.
Sorry to say but from my experience you will need a new oil cooler housing
@@lowriderlifestyle2869 Yeah, I replaced the entire unit in my Chrysler T&C, as well as the ones in my daughter's Dodge Journey and her husband's Ram 1500.
So is the cap different on the older models? It would be nice to see them side by side
Yes, that’s my question also.
The filter cap and filter housing are different on the earlier Grand Caravans at least, change was in 2014 I think. Earlier ones have a shorter cap and the "nut" on the top is solid . It's also easier to put the gasket in the wrong place on the newer caps.
@@macfady2181 The filters are also different...they can't be interchanged unless the installer is incredibly ham-fisted about it.
Just get the oil filter adapter from Baxter to switch over to a traditional screw on filter. No more dry starts. It is pretty pricy though which is a con.
Thank you for the info. I will check out the Baxter.
I'm confused, I have a 2018 Ram 1500 3.6 Bighorn and it uses Purolator Filter #PL36135. This filter has no type of valve in it whatsoever, so your saying this required valve is in my cap possibly? Thanks in advance!
Does the Cherokee 3.2 have the same filter cap issue?
Wouldn't a po code pop up if this was happening to your vehicle?
If this happens can you drive the car to shop or will it do more damage?
What kind of damage will it do to the enige?
So, after watching this video, I want to go check my wife's Chrysler 300's filter to make sure it's on correctly. That being said, I still prefer the filter location/style (top of engine in plastic canister) versus an oil school spin on under the engine.
The plastic oil cooler is garbage.
The Pentastar 3.6l has a known issue with the plastic filter housing cracking at the base. My daughter and son-in-law both drive Chryslers with the 3.6 and both have had their housings cracked by careless oil change mechanics who simply wash their hands of it and say it’s not their fault. Repair shops are quoting $800-$1000 for replacement. Do your own oil changes, be careful when loosening and don’t over tighten.
Good to know! Thanks.
30 degrees or less is extreme cold?
Where I'm from, that's three seasons of the year...
I am very intrested in becoming a dealer under you how do I do that? Thanks for all the great videos so much amazing information.
So every time you change your own oil you have to replace the cap or risk ruining your engine? Then the filters should be built with a new cap integral correct?
What? Where did you get that? No, that's not true at all.
It’s way way more than just that filter.
Is this issue with Mopar filter also?
I have only ever noticed one screw on style oil filter that didn't have a 25-pound bypass on it. At least. And that was still 17 and 1/2 pounds. Oil filter media will take 25 to 30 lb on a regular basis if it's built properly. I have no idea where you got the idea that oil filters cannot handle more than 13 lb. Ticks me off is why are we going back to canister oil filters when that is a much older design you were way ahead of the game with the screw on oil filter.
Actually the media will handle all flows of oil - 30, 40, 50 lb "passing through at temperature" - what he's talking about is actual restriction.. There's not a single passenger car (non-diesel) oil filter in production that will allow for much more than 13-PSI.. It's written on the manufacturers requirement data. Over those restriction PSI's at the media its self will trigger the bypass valve or spring. Why do you think those bypass valves are in there??
How do I know if my cap is bad
Good to know!
How do I get dis pls. I mean d dodge 2015 model
Im in need of help, i changed the whole housing and it came with the new filter but now its giving me a code P06DD
What can i do?
Same here. Been scouring the interwebs for the last 2 weeks and all i can find is changing the oil pump solenoid. I'm hesitant because it was functioning properly before I changed the housing. If you find an answer tag me.
@@chrisw46360 i just talked to a buddy of mine and he said that the ecm needs re-programming
What is the code from this problem
Apparently, All the Pentastar engines have a problem, sometime in their life, with this poorly thought out filter system/placement....This After years
of no problems with the "Old Way"on the Older spin on systems.....Happens when they Green Up the work force....
I always use mobile one or Valvoline products
I think people try using the wrong filters and even modifying a filter to fit. I find it upsetting to think trying to remove an old filter from the cap can break it and damage your motor.
Maybe they should have stuck with a canister filter 🤔
Cold start ups? There’s literally no oil in the top end after abt 15 minutes after shutdown in these 3.6 v6. There is no valves to retain oil so every start up is a dry start for about 4 seconds which is why these engines wipe out cams and rollers. Ditch the oem pos filter and get a Baxter anti drain back adapter with a premium WIX can filter.
I use the flood mode to get oil flowing a bit before starting engine.but that Baxter unit is a darn good product👍👍
Why did you stop posting
Just busy but I'm starting again - a new channel though.. Not up just yet. More of a vintage vehicle recovery theme..
Thanks for sharing 💯👍
You bet
Do those white synthetic filters flow better than a regular wix or mopar what do you think
The flow is the same unless it's extremely cold or the filter is getting old (resin coagulation) - so overtime the amsoil nanofiber will flow better and in cold temps there are no glues or resins to hamper the flow. All a nanofiber.. The other benefit is the capacity to flow ratio..
30 degrees is NOT extremely cold!😂😂😂
The dealer owes me a engine 2 days after I git my oil changed it started ti king
Use oem no problem
Well my oil housing is leaking. So yeah 😂
The o ring on the oil filter cap is on the wrong grooves. There’s a couple wrong ways to put it on that it will leak and only one way to put it on correct so a lot of people actually mess that up
Dude, what are you talking about? Iv literally never seen this happen.
Another example of why Chrysler products are absolute shit
That's really the reason I made the video.
It's a totally Bogus situation. But don't let facts stop you from continuing to troll Chrysler.
Dodge having major engine problems!? Who would’ve thought 😒
@My Pronoun is WTF Agree 100%
By the way, have you ever checked satellite pictures of their company location? I think I am missing a refinery there. If you ask me, it looks more like a bottling operation to me. Spicing up someone else's.
@My Pronoun is WTF If average ambient temps are above 10 degrees F you would never see this. Even if the innerds of the cap are shifted. This was a bulletin via NOLN. Nothing to do with AMSOIL.. This isn't for selling any AMSOIL part so much but to make income from UA-cam and get people arguing about it which works.
Nice 1 Mopar...i mean Fiat...sorry Mopar my bad
started watching this video and realized its promoted by shitsoil