The best way to keep from cross-threading any threads is...start by turning in reverse (left) until the threads drop in place, then starting turning to the right to tighten up. Millions of people probably don't know this; I learned this as a machinist. You're welcome Also, always start tightening bolts and threaded components as much as you can by hand first, NEVER start the tightening process with a wrench or a socket!
Yes this is true. I work with a lot of delicate screws and threads at work and use this method, which is even more important when working with small threads 🙌 And if there is more than one thread then I get all in place about three quarters THEN I start tightening all in star ⭐️ pattern 😇😇😇
I have seen videos recommending inserting & tightening spark plugs by hand to prevent cross threading (thank you, Scotty Kilmer). I have not heard your recommendation for reverse threading screwed joints, thank you for the tip
I made the mistake of going into jiffy lube for a quick oil change. I usually do my own but was in a rush that day. During the oil change I watched the mechanics pushing down on the oil filter cap with all their weight, trying to tighten it back on. I mentioned that what they were doing was wrong and the cause was that they were trying to fit the wrong size filter into the housing. Pulling out of the shop, I was noticing obvious problems. And pulled right back in. My oil light was on and I was losing some power (was able to circle the block back to the shop). The mechanics told me it was an oil sensor switch that happened to go out during their oil change and took absolutely no accountability for the incident. So about 2500 dollars later I get it into a shop to have the problem diagnosed and was told there was an oil leak coming from that housing and a couple other places. They didn't mention anything about the oil sensor switch until I asked about it. Did Jiffy lube screw me, how bad did they screw me if so and should I sue them?
They hire a bunch of high school drop outs that knows nothing about basic maintenance along with a supervisor who has to read a manual on how to diagnose oil changes just as bad as going to Walmart for a oil change
My problem-I noticed my antifreeze coolant level was depleting everyday where I had to add some. I looked for any leakage around the van to no avail. Finally after placing the problem on UA-cam, come to find out most of the Chrysler/Dodge 3.6L Pentastar V6 engines have a failed Oil filter housing and oil cooler (Made of Plastic warped due to the heat off the engine) that is a common cause of coolant and oil leaks on Chrysler 3.6L Pentastar engines. I went ahead and broke into the engine to the valley of the engine and replaced the failed Oil filter housing and oil cooler with a Dorman Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter Housing with Oil Cooler and Filter-No leaks now. With the breakdown of the engine I replaced the spark plugs, PCV valve, Air intake filter, Mobil 1 extended mileage oil change, with new "O" rings while I was there. Good Luck.
The problem with the oil cooler filter housing in Jeeps is it gets too hot, cracks on the bottom and leaks. Did not fail because of a bad oil changes. I went through three of them before going to an all aluminum oil cooler filter housing. No issues after that. (Jeep has 195,000 on it has been to Alaska twice from Massachusetts.)
This is true, it’s from heat cycling not so much mechanic incompetence. He should also talk about the roller lifters and oil starvation issues in valve train
I have 194,540 km on my 2013 Dodge Charger SXT 3.6L Pentastar and have had no problems with the Oil cooler. Proper maintenance is the secret using the correct torque specs. No problem with the notorious rocker arm "tic-tic" - again regular oil changes with Full Synthetic oil. I change my oil at 5,000 km (cheaper than replacing rocker arms.)
I have 3.6 liter engine in 2016 Chrysler 200C AWD I have 48,000 miles, keep watch. I take car to Chrysler dealership for oil changes and I ask for pennzoil synthetic 5-30.
It's the 2014 and later ones and people who over tighten the filter cap. Turn it by hand. When it seats, barely tighten it a bit more, 1/16th turn.. snug is enough.
I’ve got 60750 miles on a 2016 Ram 1500. Last oil change done at the local dealership. Check engine light came on had it read and reset at Auto Zone. Readout claimed it needed a new oil pump? Drove directly to the dealership, dropped it off the next day for diagnostic service. They called said the diagnosis was a misfire on #6 cylinder and had to replace the coil. Asked about the oil pump, said there’s no oil pump issue coming up on their computer. Go to pick it up, the service manager says we found an oil leak in the filter housing!!! Well you guys did the oil change, what happened to the filter housing? It’s cracked, and we have a lot of customers waiting on these replacements, they’re on back order!!! Took ZERO responsibility for cracking the filter assembly, wanted $650.00 to repair it. Told me to google it maybe I could find one faster than they could. I found one, but it’s also the plastic one, the updated aluminum ones from Dorman are “ unavailable” every place I tried, no aluminum ones available. Putting another plastic one on it and NOT AT THE DEALERSHIP EVER AGAIN. There should be a Class Action Law Suit against Chrysler!!!
@@A.D.24 still under warranty? That was the first repair on my 2016 Ram 1500 with the Penstar v-6! Lifters had to be replaced, notorious for bad lifters! Luckily it was
These are a MAJOR problem with the 3.6L. We have a 2015 and have replaced these twice. We get our oil changed at a Valvoline quick oil change service. If they over torqued the cap, it cracked the base both times. This last time, we went back with a Dorman aluminum housing. Can't really say it was the service since the leak started over a month after the oil change on the second instance. Plastic exposed to heat and chemicals is detrimental to its long-term integrity.
@@joeshmoe8952 no problems as of yet. I still think it was a good call particularly once it was done after previous failures of the plastic housing components.
@@darrylsturgis7389 Look into the Baxter Oil Filter adapter. There’s lots of good reviews on it, they say it helps prevent dry start which is supposedly a big issue on the pentastar engines. There’s plenty of videos on here regarding the Baxter oil filter adapter for the 3.6
Most of the common failures is not because the owner or mechanic. These engines get alot of hate but they're not that bad if you fix the common failures before they get out of hand. The first is what hes holding. Ethier they crack or O-rings go bad. Second is the rocker arm bearings. Ive worked on alot of the 3.6s and usually those issues i mentioned happens around 100k to 120k. If you have the 3.6 and start hearing a tick or light rattle address it ASAP because it will save you money. If you let that rattle/tick go eventually youll have a misfire and wipe out the cam.
That's exactly what happened to my 2017 JK with 75k, suddenly I got the rocker arm tick and almost on cue the oil cooler started leaking as the plastic housing cracked from heat exposure. Replaced all the rocker arms and went to an all aluminum oil filter and cooler assembly.
@@SurfDweller good 👍 those engines get a lot of hate but those 2 issues are the only common issues I see. Once and awhile you'll have timing issues around 140 to 160k but that's few and far between.
We have a Grand caravan with a 3.6 with 190,000 mi and we just replaced this interior unit with the aluminum dorman unit, And we also replaced all of the rocker arms. Once these units are replaced it's a good engine.
And it was busted from over torquing past the 25nm as specified from a simple oil change. Can say I’ll be doing it myself for sure from this point forward!
First 3.6 we owned was a 2013 JGC. Had over 200K when we traded it in. Was running great. I had done tons of oil changes on it. I always start those threads by hand. Finished with a half inch drive ratchet and a 24mm 6 point socket. As soon as the cap made contact i stopped tightening. It has an o ring and just let that be the seal. I have done exactly the same on our 202l JGCL 3.6 and it is running fine.
Everybody knows those plastic oil cooler units are trashed. They sit in between the heads in the valley where all the heat is generated which after about 100,000 miles will make the plastic of the entire unit extremely brittle and prone to cracking and shattering...
I'm hearing from other Pentastar owners that this "state-of-the-art", "top-of-the-line" oil cooler that sits right on top of a hot engine doesn't even incorporate an anti-drainback valve inside of it either!?! Is that true? My 2010 GM 3.6l which also incorporates a cartridge-style filter has an anti-drainback valve AND a bypass valve built into the oil filter housing AND it is all-aluminum from the factory!!
The Baxter Performance oil filter adapter was made for this exact problem. Not cheap but will prevent any major issues regarding the oil filter housing and most importantly prevents dry starts that the OEM engineering top-down oil filter causes. Not affiliated at all with Baxter.. just speaking from experience.
$4:47 - what you meant was the thread on the oil filter cap is pretty FINE and not COURSE. It's easy to cross thread a fine thread but not course thread!
Ironically my oil housing filter on my 3.6 penastar was overly tightened and had to be replaced. Definitely don’t over tighten cap. I now do my own oil change, because the oil change spot I went to overtightened it 🤦🏾♂️. What a pain to replace but I had to learn the hard way.
They tend to leak from the bottom seals. Replaced a ton not from user error. Do yourself a favor and get OEM part. Aftermarket ones are junk and yes even the metal upgraded ones. Secondly I’ve seen more people break the manifolds trying to replace because the treads are plastic doesn’t take much
I have mixed opinions here, I own 2 2014 and 1 2016 3.6L, The latter I have cared for it's entire life, always changed oil and filter at 5K and I religiously follow torque spec knowing that it will eventually fail (I've already replaced the 2 2014's) well, we got a cold snap here in SC right when it was due for an oil change, and the 2016 started the classic oil leak. I know it was never over torqued, it just failed out of the blue (Or was it something to do with the 12 degree weather) I guess we'll never know. Just replaced it 3 days ago with a Mopar unit. I keep a spare on the shelf now with a full gasket kit.
Mine just went. We recently went from 50s to 5f in Southeastern Pennsylvania a couple of weeks ago. Mine went a couple days after that extreme temperature change. I replaced mine with an all-aluminum housing.
I'll just add my findings on my 2012 JK, as many say theirs cracked but I have yet to see an image of where they are cracking. I had a bad leak only months after buying my jeep. I inspected the plastic unit i pulled and had no cracks. If you look at the bottom where it contacts the engine block, you may find the oil housing is warped. The return oil port was warped so bad from the heat it pulled the gasket of the mating surface of the block. The gasket and port were no longer a round shape. Second location was the mating surface where the oil cooler mates to the housing. Similar issue. The plastic housing warped causing the gaskets to mishapen leacing gaps for oil to leak out. I found the aluminum replacement from Napa. There are several companies making these now so you should be able to find them. My old unit looked as if it was replaced before, so I'm guessing replacing these with another plastic one is just going to ne more headache and issue down the road again. I would splurge on the aluminum on if you plan on keeping your car for a long period.
I work at a Chrysler jeep Dodge Ram dealership I have replaced a ton of these coolers because of people over tightening and/ cracking the plastic but I will say half them are because the bottom o-ring gaskets failed to the point instead of replacing the whole assembly mopar strongly suggest just replacing the gaskets and if fails again follow through with a whole new cooler
@@cbradiospronto8781 Check UA-cam university for the latest repair procedure. The filter is located under the Air Cleaner and Intake Manifold has to be removed. If you’re going to do this job, get the Dorman aluminum housing or you’ll be doing it again when the CHEAP PLASTIC cracks again!!!
I did my first oil change on a recent purchase 2020 grand cherokee 3.6. I lubes the O-rings and the threads and it went together like butter. Just snugged it and good to go. It's common sense really
The oil cooler in my moms minivan died right when the weather got really cold here in Indiana right before Christmas. I think the change from 30 degree weather to -50 degree windchills killed the gaskets. I replaced it with a Dorman aluminum oil cooler so well see how long this one lasts.
I went down this road. Called 3 different repair shops. And every single one of them said to stick with OEM Mopar replacement. The others are cheap Chinese plastic and will break within 10k miles. I've seen full aluminum ones start popping up. If it's not the OEM part. I'd stay away....
I have 225k on my 2015 200. I’m on on my fourth oil filter housing. I do it myself, so it’s not a huge deal when it starts leaking. Everyone I know who has a Pentastar has had to replace it at some point. Part of ownership. Lol
I got a 2022 Pentastar that year. I saw videos of the engine tear downs, saw all the rust so I put a Catch Can. or Oil Separator. Decarbonization works! Runs great now!😮
It's called an oil "cartridge"..and 8.8 inch lbs is the equivalent in torque. An important fact to mention is the change in location of the oil bypass valve..there's 2 versions of this cap changing on 2013 and up models..it's easy to install the wrong filter for the opposite version. And actually these adapter assembly's have an extremely high failure rate on the bottom ports containing o ring seals. Across all 3.6 platforms. FYI: They now manufacture this component completely with metal materials and its a much more reliable version..
The aluminum version is hard to come by, there’s literally millions of these motors on the road. The OEM plastic will eventually crack and need replacement.
But the oil filter is known for cracking and leaking. You should replace that piece of plastic with an aluminum part as well as several other parts. The engine needs special care to keep it operating well the replacement parts should be covered by the manufacture but they are not. Good luck and have fun replaceing crap parts.
I have 2014 they made a change from 2013 in the 13 you put filter into cap then screw on. In the 14 you insert the filter into housing not the cap. I made this mistake on my first o.c. blew oil all over the engine bay causing me to think it was a bad unit. It was fine.
Have 110 on my GC I never had a major problem changed mine at 100 just as maintenance i own a auto repair shop we changed a lot of these in the past not so many lately most of the ones we changed were serviced at quick lube shops
If you're that deep into the engine anyway, upgrade the filter housing end to the Baxter Performance system and you're done, and you'll have the benefit of more immediate oil pressure to the engine's top end, directly downstream of this filter, so two problems solved in one.
2017 Wrangler just after 100k warranty mine failed. All oil changes were done by dealership. If you live in cold climate they fail, I switched to the all aluminum aftermarket 1/10/2023 and only time will tell. Dealer price for repair $930
Hey I have a 3.6 pentastar in a fwd 2016 Dodge Grand caravan my oil cooler went from what my dealer says and as soon as I noticed loss of power , I was within a mile or 2 of dealer , when I went to turn off the motor which was acting extremely weird loss of power or light flashing intermittently and the temperature gauge is running somewhere between 2:20 and 2:30 and when I turn the engine off I got out and was waiting on my Uber and was clearing out all the stuff out of my car then I might need and I walked from the front of the engine and had the hood raised already just looking to see if I could see what was wrong but I noticed that the oil and the coolant had dumped all out of the engineonce I got it parked in service area to catch a Uber home I no
Last cold snap knocked out my oil cooler AND main seal. This should not happen to a motor with 55k miles. I do all my own “awl” changes, NEVER over tighten, 8-10 ft lbs, pretty much hand tighten then another 1/4 to a 1/2 turn, its plastic crap. I baby it, and still failed. My radiator went at 20k miles, front calipers at 35k miles, rear axle seal at 47k miles and tstat at 54k miles.
ALWAYS put in an aftermarket oil cooler on these…. I enjoy doing them. So always be sure to do AFTERMARKET oil cooler. And be sure to NOT get the old o rings out of the block.
Those POS leak from the bottom without any breakage. FCA knows it, they used to keep them at the parts deal counter here in Orlando and didn't ven have to go pull stock. Fixed sister's car, a year late my own truck. What a joke.
I have a 2017 Grand Cherokee with a lifetime warranty! At 85000 a couple months ago this had to be replaced due to a leak. Nothing to do with the cap. I do my own oil changes I don't over tighten. I have only had 2 issues with this car. Oil cooler and some motor on the rear dif. that caused a code. Otherwise I do the maint. and drive. I believe you are incorrect about the failure rate on this part. They diagnosed it over the phone. The dealer replaces these all the time.
Had a 2015 200 and my old cooler failed... not from user error but the oil cooler itself. Found a small puddle of oil under the car and did think much of it, parked at the drugstore and notice burning oil smell so shut the car off and investigated. The car dumped all of its oil into the valley of the engine and was flowing to the ground. Bought a jug of oil and filled it up and got it home. The aluminum cooler was the culprit. There was no aftermarket part yet so it was 400 ish dollars canadian for the cooler and intake gaskets and about an hours labour..
It's actually the o ring seals and ports beneath the oil cooler/ filter housing(adapter) ..the plastic materials used to manufacture this part start to degrade and the o rings start to harden. Exactly like the hose ports on a plastic radiator..it was probably leaking much longer than you thought..its usually a slow creep down the bellhousing then the wind while driving blows it across the lower undercarriage and an actual drip and puddle never forms.. FYI they now offer a replacement that's 100% metal and has a major increase in reliability..
A dealership did my last oil change, now I have a P1098 code- engine oil sensor circuit. I imagine this is an expensive fix. How necessary is it to run out and replace sensor? No leaks~
Damn, dude, the Dorman aluminum replacement is $309 right now @ O'reillys, too! Even the Standard plastic replacement one is $289!! I'd be pissed if I was a Pentastar owner encountering this problem!!!🤬From what I've read, too, this design doesn't even incorporate an anti-drainback valve either! Hell, my 2010 GM 3.6l which also uses a cartridge-style filter has an anti-drainback valve built into the bottom of it AND it is all-aluminum from the factory!! The Pentastar was 1st released in what, 2011?
I have a 2016 Charger, and my girlfriend has a 2015 Grand Cherokee. Both around 118k miles both got a misfire. I replaced the plugs and misfire went away on both but yet both still had a random sputter. I'm going to change the coils to see if that helps. Any suggestions?
@@gunwhores just an update. I changed the coil packs and all is well. So if you own a v6 pentastar with 118k miles or more and start getting a misfire I'd change plugs and coils together.
The problem with the oil filter housing is it don't have an anti Drain back so when you start your vehicle you get dry starts all the time which wears out your cam lobes and lifters then it starts to tap
During the summer that "silly" engine cover sits in my garage. And get put back on for the cooler months. I dont wear a toque in the summer and neither do both of my 3.6's
Good information, 25 NM = 18.439053732 FT pounds. I guess stay away from those quickie oil change places or do it yourself? I recently bought a 2023 RAM 1500 classic Warlock with the 3.6, mine has the tow package, 355 gears, limited slip etc. 16-17 city MPG and 19 highway, i hit 20 MPG once but its got plenty of power for towing as i think its rated about 6500 pounds but i wont be towing
25nm is 18lbs, that's a lot of torque for plastic on plastic, probably why they break in the first place. And then look at the design how it sticks up at a 45 angle that means torque on the whole assembly which is only held in place by those little bolts, and plastic.
I can't be a DYI' er then because I'm always cross-threading stuff, no matter how careful I am. Do you think the dealership can be trusted not to over-tighten or cross-thread?
You have no choice if you have someone else do the oil, but you do it yourself you hand screw, then wrench it till there is no gap. On my Promaster it is difficult to get at and hard to turn, I think it's good but there is still a gap, once the gap is gone I tighten it till the resistance increase. Mostly you don't want it to come unscrewed the threads are not filled with oil when you take it off, I don't think much pressure reaches the threads.
I have a Grand Cherokee Altitude 2021 V6 3.6 with that engine and the problem that I have now when I go to turn it on, it remains stagnant, that problem would be the gasoline filter as you showed on your channel.
Watch your video, as for me it help alot, have a 2018 ram quad truck, had to check oil pressure sensor, which was pretty hard , but did my best any tip on that..
Got a 4x4 tradesman crew 34999 left over 2022. But I also got a 100k bumper to bumper. The ford 22 3.3 same type was 49k so rolled ram dice 7 months ago so far ok.
I dont even need to tourqe it, once i see the flange on the cap touch, i make sure its snug and im good. That O-ring dose most of the work. I also make sure to rub some oil on the threads and the new O-rings. I was scared of this when we first got my wifes jeep, but now im in love with the 3.6. Ive since gotten a van issued to me at work and its a promaster with the 3.6. I love it. Truley becoming a big fan of mopar these days.
Sorry but that oil filter design is garbage. Traditional spin on filters are time tested and fool proof. I do about 3000 oil changes a year and I can say canister type filter designs are an unnecessary evil.
I own 4 shops I’m a lead/master Chrysler tech. I’m the only 1 who can do new car warranty work on a minority of cars. The oil cap you are referring to does not need to be “torqued “ just tighten it til it’s t stops and about a 1/4-1/2 turn DONT TORQUE IT!!! I have a fleet of customers courtesy cars a total of 22 all Chryslers and the lowest mileage one I have is 97,888 miles the highest mileage one is 256k miles and doing the oil changes as I’ve described in tightening the filter cap I have no leaks and never replaced a SINGLE CAP OR unit!! And I have O LEAKS OR CRACKS AND AGAIN ALL ORIGINAL! Also I have a machine shop I use to make these units all aluminum top to bottom and these are bullet proof for those who are ignorant to have w to make properly tighten the plastic caps. Also I have a few cars in my fleet that are 2013 that had the different filters and caps that constantly had issues and even those I’ve yet to replace. So AGAIN!!! Tighten until it stops the a 1/4 to half an extra turn to seat the seal and done. The reason these get a bad rap is because people do these and break them because they aren’t mechanics and next thing you know it’s a pars issue because people are far to prideful to admit their screw ups! Also every 5.7 hemi after 2006/7 that has the ticking noise and end up patting for a new cam and lifters well there’s a way to prevent that and NO ITS NOT DISABLE THE MDS!!!! It’s a hell car high volume oil pump and the lifters from the hellcat (non MDS) replace these parts arts very easy and because the lifters weren’t designed for MDS you need to shut it down. The tic happens due to long idle times and low oil pressure at idle so the answer…. Is a high.flow oil pump. And you have a 5.7 that’ll never tick. Why. Do you think he I cop cars go up for auction with low miles ?? Because they idle for hours on end and they. Auction them with 40-50k miles and so we. Buy these cars up like they’re going out of style ESPECIALLY SINCE THE COP CARs are the only 5.7 hemi w/awd so we do the cam swap (a bigger cam) and do the oil pump. And lifters and shut the mds down to plus we machine and port the heads and we make a custom intake and on the dyno of an all wheel drive we make 490-575 wheel hp and all in we buy these cars for 2k approximately with hardly 50k miles and out of pork comes out to be 800-1,000 dollars so for 3k you get a 500-600hpmawd charger. And we build these for customers and they pay 7-10k dollars knowing what we pay plus we determine price mostly by the condition of the body and we make the interior like a normal charger srt-8 inside all thanks to our special fri nds at our go to. Interior shop. They do that for us and we do any mechanical work for them at a really discounted price I.e. building engines for their muscle cars and daily driver maintenance
Make sure you get the 2016 and up current year pentastar engine fca remodel the those engines to address those drive train issues failed rocker arms ticking problems that plague 2015- 2011 models
@@FrostbiteRam good to know. If it becomes a recurring issue I'll definitely look into the dorman option. Thanks for letting me know about it and for the detailed video on this part.
Can i ask you a question? Does one failing part that every other manufacturer also has fail, sour your whole vehicle purchase in your mind? Ps just like the Fords we have rocker arm failures pretty common look up pentastar tick. If you have a tick get her fixed asap super cheap now. Wait and camshafts need to be replaced. As fsr as them 2 issues thats pretty much it on these motors...well over millions of these motorz around in its various varieties 3.0 litre and 3.6 litre and generations of which there are 3 and they zre not the same be careful sourcing parts theres changes to the system and locations etc. I consider myself a Hyundai /Kia boy fo you know how many engines Hyundai has blowing up that they are not recalling? Its a lot. Ford has had serious issues with its engines since the late 90s starting with phasers on the 4.6 5.4 6.0 5.0 etc seriously seriously bad issues later in life too on there turbo based units and its associated 3.5. Anyways point being engines are not a problem for Chrysler and never have been. Its always been transmissions and part of that is user never service the fluid or knowing that it needs to be done and frequently as per severe driving maintenance schedule and partly also the compact sizes of various problematic transmissions such as the 41te 42rle 62te etc. Compact design and prone to overheating the fluids over 60,000 miles is pushing it for reliability of the transmission fluid changes and regular maintenance and shit... I put 250,000 on my 13 Journey no problem except for filter adapter and rocker arms. I put so far 170,000 on my 17 Durango again filter housing so far so good. The problem is that nobody maintains there vehicles appropriately anymore and they are not going to be able to make it 150,000 anymore without regular maintenance and severe service schedule which is the way we all use our vehicle snd should be the default maintenance interval on our rides. Good luck take care trade it off right now while market is still hot and shop around for something else that might be a good fit for you :)
There are a ton of aftermarket oil coolers out there for the 3.6 and 3.2 Pentastar motors that are aluminum instead of plastic for half the price. Get the aluminum!
Old but good video. I have 2015 Wrangler with the 3.6. I also live in Florida. Had sudden changes in overnight temperatures. 80 degrees in the day 30 degrees overnight. Those change along with the engine cooling overnight caused many engines with this oil cooler to crack. I got mine replaced with OEM parts.
I have a 2012 Dodge Charger and it’s starting to overheat while I drive and when I put it in park it starts to go back down slowly to normal range and sometimes it doesn’t any guess what the problem could be ?
I have a 2016 ram 1500 3.6, after an oil change recently my check engine light came on, and the code was an oil pressure sensor and P06DE would stripping the cap or damage to the filter cap cause my check engine light error code?
Hmm I have 114k miles on My ram and I've been having a small leak of oil and now I have a small EVAP leak engine light on and I got a ticking noise I wonder if this thing is the culprit
There is an aluminum option out there - just Google. I found one on Amazon for $170. Worth the extra money IMO for piece of mind and if you're keeping the car for a while.
The best way to keep from cross-threading any threads is...start by turning in reverse (left) until the threads drop in place, then starting turning to the right to tighten up. Millions of people probably don't know this; I learned this as a machinist.
You're welcome
Also, always start tightening bolts and threaded components as much as you can by hand first, NEVER start the tightening process with a wrench or a socket!
Always shocked when I see people in videos place a bolt and then tighten at high speed with an electric ratchet.
I recently heard about your technique to avoid cross-threading but even then I sometimes somehow manage to end up cross-threading.
Yes this is true. I work with a lot of delicate screws and threads at work and use this method, which is even more important when working with small threads 🙌
And if there is more than one thread then I get all in place about three quarters THEN I start tightening all in star ⭐️ pattern 😇😇😇
I have seen videos recommending inserting & tightening spark plugs by hand to prevent cross threading (thank you, Scotty Kilmer).
I have not heard your recommendation for reverse threading screwed joints, thank you for the tip
@@_.-AAA-._ : that’s just laziness and that practice will make more work for them.
I made the mistake of going into jiffy lube for a quick oil change. I usually do my own but was in a rush that day. During the oil change I watched the mechanics pushing down on the oil filter cap with all their weight, trying to tighten it back on. I mentioned that what they were doing was wrong and the cause was that they were trying to fit the wrong size filter into the housing. Pulling out of the shop, I was noticing obvious problems. And pulled right back in. My oil light was on and I was losing some power (was able to circle the block back to the shop).
The mechanics told me it was an oil sensor switch that happened to go out during their oil change and took absolutely no accountability for the incident. So about 2500 dollars later I get it into a shop to have the problem diagnosed and was told there was an oil leak coming from that housing and a couple other places. They didn't mention anything about the oil sensor switch until I asked about it. Did Jiffy lube screw me, how bad did they screw me if so and should I sue them?
This was on a 2012 chrysler 200 3.6
They hire a bunch of high school drop outs that knows nothing about basic maintenance along with a supervisor who has to read a manual on how to diagnose oil changes just as bad as going to Walmart for a oil change
always do your own oil changes if you can
My problem-I noticed my antifreeze coolant level was depleting everyday where I had to add some. I looked for any leakage around the van to no avail. Finally after placing the problem on UA-cam, come to find out most of the Chrysler/Dodge 3.6L Pentastar V6 engines have a failed Oil filter housing and oil cooler (Made of Plastic warped due to the heat off the engine) that is a common cause of coolant and oil leaks on Chrysler 3.6L Pentastar engines. I went ahead and broke into the engine to the valley of the engine and replaced the failed Oil filter housing and oil cooler with a Dorman Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter Housing with Oil Cooler and Filter-No leaks now. With the breakdown of the engine I replaced the spark plugs, PCV valve, Air intake filter, Mobil 1 extended mileage oil change, with new "O" rings while I was there. Good Luck.
The problem with the oil cooler filter housing in Jeeps is it gets too hot, cracks on the bottom and leaks. Did not fail because of a bad oil changes. I went through three of them before going to an all aluminum oil cooler filter housing. No issues after that. (Jeep has 195,000 on it has been to Alaska twice from Massachusetts.)
Gonna see if the aluminum oil cooler/filter housing aftermarket upgrade allows warranty to stay intact.
@@terrybrown3224 good question! My warranty expired about 100,000 miles ago.
This is true, it’s from heat cycling not so much mechanic incompetence. He should also talk about the roller lifters and oil starvation issues in valve train
Yeah i cant believe the actually issue with these junk parts arent meantioned lol. I replace these at least once a week lol
What year is your jeep?
I have 194,540 km on my 2013 Dodge Charger SXT 3.6L Pentastar and have had no problems with the Oil cooler. Proper maintenance is the secret using the correct torque specs. No problem with the notorious rocker arm "tic-tic" - again regular oil changes with Full Synthetic oil. I change my oil at 5,000 km (cheaper than replacing rocker arms.)
5w 30 pennzoil platinum not 5w20 in that motor and it will make 400k
I have 3.6 liter engine in 2016 Chrysler 200C AWD I have 48,000 miles, keep watch.
I take car to Chrysler dealership for oil changes and I ask for pennzoil synthetic 5-30.
It's the 2014 and later ones and people who over tighten the filter cap. Turn it by hand. When it seats, barely tighten it a bit more, 1/16th turn.. snug is enough.
I’ve got 60750 miles on a 2016 Ram 1500. Last oil change done at the local dealership. Check engine light came on had it read and reset at Auto Zone. Readout claimed it needed a new oil pump? Drove directly to the dealership, dropped it off the next day for diagnostic service. They called said the diagnosis was a misfire on #6 cylinder and had to replace the coil. Asked about the oil pump, said there’s no oil pump issue coming up on their computer. Go to pick it up, the service manager says we found an oil leak in the filter housing!!! Well you guys did the oil change, what happened to the filter housing? It’s cracked, and we have a lot of customers waiting on these replacements, they’re on back order!!! Took ZERO responsibility for cracking the filter assembly, wanted $650.00 to repair it. Told me to google it maybe I could find one faster than they could. I found one, but it’s also the plastic one, the updated aluminum ones from Dorman are “ unavailable” every place I tried, no aluminum ones available. Putting another plastic one on it and NOT AT THE DEALERSHIP EVER AGAIN. There should be a Class Action Law Suit against Chrysler!!!
Had to replace oil filter housing, coils for miss fire, thermostat and right now my car is making a tapping noise.
@@A.D.24 still under warranty?
That was the first repair on my 2016 Ram 1500 with the Penstar v-6! Lifters had to be replaced, notorious for bad lifters! Luckily it was
Yeah I just bought a aluminum one for my ram 1500
@@vernt4583
Dorman finally catching up with the upgraded aluminum one, nice!
How did it come as a missfire 6cly
These are a MAJOR problem with the 3.6L. We have a 2015 and have replaced these twice. We get our oil changed at a Valvoline quick oil change service. If they over torqued the cap, it cracked the base both times. This last time, we went back with a Dorman aluminum housing. Can't really say it was the service since the leak started over a month after the oil change on the second instance. Plastic exposed to heat and chemicals is detrimental to its long-term integrity.
Do you have any issues with the Dorman?
@@joeshmoe8952 no problems as of yet. I still think it was a good call particularly once it was done after previous failures of the plastic housing components.
@@darrylsturgis7389 Look into the Baxter Oil Filter adapter. There’s lots of good reviews on it, they say it helps prevent dry start which is supposedly a big issue on the pentastar engines. There’s plenty of videos on here regarding the Baxter oil filter adapter for the 3.6
Most of the common failures is not because the owner or mechanic. These engines get alot of hate but they're not that bad if you fix the common failures before they get out of hand. The first is what hes holding. Ethier they crack or O-rings go bad. Second is the rocker arm bearings. Ive worked on alot of the 3.6s and usually those issues i mentioned happens around 100k to 120k. If you have the 3.6 and start hearing a tick or light rattle address it ASAP because it will save you money. If you let that rattle/tick go eventually youll have a misfire and wipe out the cam.
That's exactly what happened to my 2017 JK with 75k, suddenly I got the rocker arm tick and almost on cue the oil cooler started leaking as the plastic housing cracked from heat exposure. Replaced all the rocker arms and went to an all aluminum oil filter and cooler assembly.
@@SurfDweller good 👍 those engines get a lot of hate but those 2 issues are the only common issues I see. Once and awhile you'll have timing issues around 140 to 160k but that's few and far between.
I bought a used PRomaster and heard the ticking. Replaced the lifters immediately before the cams were ruined!
We have a Grand caravan with a 3.6 with 190,000 mi and we just replaced this interior unit with the aluminum dorman unit, And we also replaced all of the rocker arms. Once these units are replaced it's a good engine.
The answer is DO NOT USE 0/20 oil. I run mobil 1 0/40 and change every 3500 miles.
Replace with a Dorman unit. No plastic. Problem solved
Literally just got an aluminum oil filter housing and cooling assembly and god bless I feel safer knowing my oil won’t blow out all over my engine
And it was busted from over torquing past the 25nm as specified from a simple oil change. Can say I’ll be doing it myself for sure from this point forward!
First 3.6 we owned was a 2013 JGC. Had over 200K when we traded it in. Was running great. I had done tons of oil changes on it. I always start those threads by hand. Finished with a half inch drive ratchet and a 24mm 6 point socket. As soon as the cap made contact i stopped tightening. It has an o ring and just let that be the seal. I have done exactly the same on our 202l JGCL 3.6 and it is running fine.
Thanks for sharing
It's a captured o ring.
Doesn't even have to be tight, it'll seal.
Should say hand tighten only on top.
The hex is just for taking off.
Agree
Everybody knows those plastic oil cooler units are trashed. They sit in between the heads in the valley where all the heat is generated which after about 100,000 miles will make the plastic of the entire unit extremely brittle and prone to cracking and shattering...
I'm hearing from other Pentastar owners that this "state-of-the-art", "top-of-the-line" oil cooler that sits right on top of a hot engine doesn't even incorporate an anti-drainback valve inside of it either!?! Is that true? My 2010 GM 3.6l which also incorporates a cartridge-style filter has an anti-drainback valve AND a bypass valve built into the oil filter housing AND it is all-aluminum from the factory!!
The Baxter Performance oil filter adapter was made for this exact problem. Not cheap but will prevent any major issues regarding the oil filter housing and most importantly prevents dry starts that the OEM engineering top-down oil filter causes. Not affiliated at all with Baxter.. just speaking from experience.
Avoid dry starts by turning it over for a couple of seconds with gas depressed.. then start it.
85000kms on my ram1500 v6. Never had issues and I haul heavy trailers all the time. Best truck in the category.
I have a couple questions for you, have the same motor in my ram1500 what’s the heaviest haul & what kind of trailer you have on yours?
$4:47 - what you meant was the thread on the oil filter cap is pretty FINE and not COURSE. It's easy to cross thread a fine thread but not course thread!
Ironically my oil housing filter on my 3.6 penastar was overly tightened and had to be replaced. Definitely don’t over tighten cap. I now do my own oil change, because the oil change spot I went to overtightened it 🤦🏾♂️. What a pain to replace but I had to learn the hard way.
Yeah it happens 🤦♂️
Mine has 60k miles and I never had any issues. I only take it to the dealership; it's expensive but my engine has 0 issues so no complaints.
Awesome 👍
Eventually you will. The engineers didn't make it to last.
Replaced mine with an all aluminum, not worried about plastic anymore. What does hot do cold to plastic over time.....
They tend to leak from the bottom seals. Replaced a ton not from user error. Do yourself a favor and get OEM part. Aftermarket ones are junk and yes even the metal upgraded ones. Secondly I’ve seen more people break the manifolds trying to replace because the treads are plastic doesn’t take much
I have mixed opinions here, I own 2 2014 and 1 2016 3.6L, The latter I have cared for it's entire life, always changed oil and filter at 5K and I religiously follow torque spec knowing that it will eventually fail (I've already replaced the 2 2014's) well, we got a cold snap here in SC right when it was due for an oil change, and the 2016 started the classic oil leak. I know it was never over torqued, it just failed out of the blue (Or was it something to do with the 12 degree weather) I guess we'll never know. Just replaced it 3 days ago with a Mopar unit. I keep a spare on the shelf now with a full gasket kit.
I'm from Michigan and 12° weather should not hurt a vehicle
Mine just went. We recently went from 50s to 5f in Southeastern Pennsylvania a couple of weeks ago. Mine went a couple days after that extreme temperature change. I replaced mine with an all-aluminum housing.
They all fail at some point. They have redesigned the part a few times cause they know it’s a weak point. I think they still suck though
There's an all metal replacement unit. There's also a part that prevents oil back drain, preventing dry starts...
Who has the solution for oil drain down? My Town and Country needs one ASAP.
I'll just add my findings on my 2012 JK, as many say theirs cracked but I have yet to see an image of where they are cracking. I had a bad leak only months after buying my jeep. I inspected the plastic unit i pulled and had no cracks. If you look at the bottom where it contacts the engine block, you may find the oil housing is warped. The return oil port was warped so bad from the heat it pulled the gasket of the mating surface of the block. The gasket and port were no longer a round shape. Second location was the mating surface where the oil cooler mates to the housing. Similar issue. The plastic housing warped causing the gaskets to mishapen leacing gaps for oil to leak out. I found the aluminum replacement from Napa. There are several companies making these now so you should be able to find them. My old unit looked as if it was replaced before, so I'm guessing replacing these with another plastic one is just going to ne more headache and issue down the road again. I would splurge on the aluminum on if you plan on keeping your car for a long period.
I work at a Chrysler jeep Dodge Ram dealership I have replaced a ton of these coolers because of people over tightening and/ cracking the plastic but I will say half them are because the bottom o-ring gaskets failed to the point instead of replacing the whole assembly mopar strongly suggest just replacing the gaskets and if fails again follow through with a whole new cooler
Good to know also looks like Dorman just came out with a all aluminum unit now.
Which is crazy cuz if it doesn’t fix the problem you’re doing it again 🤦♂️. How long of a job is it for a back yard mechanic?
@@cbradiospronto8781
Check UA-cam university for the latest repair procedure. The filter is located under the Air Cleaner and Intake Manifold has to be removed. If you’re going to do this job, get the Dorman aluminum housing or you’ll be doing it again when the CHEAP PLASTIC cracks again!!!
Bingo 👊🏻
@@cbradiospronto8781 given you have the right tools I think any backyard mechanic can have it done between 1-3hrs given you don’t break anything
Long time no “click “…
Great to see you’re still
Giving great advice..!!!
Thanks
I did my first oil change on a recent purchase 2020 grand cherokee 3.6. I lubes the O-rings and the threads and it went together like butter. Just snugged it and good to go. It's common sense really
The oil cooler in my moms minivan died right when the weather got really cold here in Indiana right before Christmas. I think the change from 30 degree weather to -50 degree windchills killed the gaskets. I replaced it with a Dorman aluminum oil cooler so well see how long this one lasts.
With the aluminum body one the only thing you would ever have to replace is the cap now whitch you can also get in aluminum.
I went down this road. Called 3 different repair shops. And every single one of them said to stick with OEM Mopar replacement. The others are cheap Chinese plastic and will break within 10k miles. I've seen full aluminum ones start popping up. If it's not the OEM part. I'd stay away....
I have 225k on my 2015 200. I’m on on my fourth oil filter housing. I do it myself, so it’s not a huge deal when it starts leaking. Everyone I know who has a Pentastar has had to replace it at some point. Part of ownership. Lol
Sounds like you need to put the whole aluminum one in I highly doubt you'll have that problem I just did that to a Town and country
I got a 2022 Pentastar that year. I saw videos of the engine tear downs, saw all the rust so I put a Catch Can. or Oil Separator. Decarbonization works! Runs great now!😮
Awesome
It's called an oil "cartridge"..and 8.8 inch lbs is the equivalent in torque. An important fact to mention is the change in location of the oil bypass valve..there's 2 versions of this cap changing on 2013 and up models..it's easy to install the wrong filter for the opposite version. And actually these adapter assembly's have an extremely high failure rate on the bottom ports containing o ring seals. Across all 3.6 platforms.
FYI: They now manufacture this component completely with metal materials and its a much more reliable version..
The aluminum version is hard to come by, there’s literally millions of these motors on the road. The OEM plastic will eventually crack and need replacement.
are you sure? i was just at a dealership to get this part because i couldn’t get it anywhere else, they gave me the same one with the plastic…
But the oil filter is known for cracking and leaking. You should replace that piece of plastic with an aluminum part as well as several other parts. The engine needs special care to keep it operating well the replacement parts should be covered by the manufacture but they are not. Good luck and have fun replaceing crap parts.
I have 2014 they made a change from 2013 in the 13 you put filter into cap then screw on. In the 14 you insert the filter into housing not the cap. I made this mistake on my first o.c. blew oil all over the engine bay causing me to think it was a bad unit. It was fine.
It can be hand tightened
Have 110 on my GC I never had a major problem changed mine at 100 just as maintenance i own a auto repair shop we changed a lot of these in the past not so many lately most of the ones we changed were serviced at quick lube shops
If you're that deep into the engine anyway, upgrade the filter housing end to the Baxter Performance system and you're done, and you'll have the benefit of more immediate oil pressure to the engine's top end, directly downstream of this filter, so two problems solved in one.
It’s plastic, tighten til it bottoms out. That’s it. Oh and replace and lubricate the o ring
That oil filter and oil cooler also do not have a reverse flow valve to prevent the oil from dropping back into the pan.
2017 Wrangler just after 100k warranty mine failed. All oil changes were done by dealership. If you live in cold climate they fail, I switched to the all aluminum aftermarket 1/10/2023 and only time will tell. Dealer price for repair $930
Man they are making bank on that job. No wonder they haven’t figured out a proper fix.
Hey I have a 3.6 pentastar in a fwd 2016 Dodge Grand caravan my oil cooler went from what my dealer says and as soon as I noticed loss of power , I was within a mile or 2 of dealer , when I went to turn off the motor which was acting extremely weird loss of power or light flashing intermittently and the temperature gauge is running somewhere between 2:20 and 2:30 and when I turn the engine off I got out and was waiting on my Uber and was clearing out all the stuff out of my car then I might need and I walked from the front of the engine and had the hood raised already just looking to see if I could see what was wrong but I noticed that the oil and the coolant had dumped all out of the engineonce I got it parked in service area to catch a Uber home I no
Sounds right
The main special tool you need to do this job is a e8 star socket
I pulled everything apart to find out the e8 socket was needed.
Not necessary, 8 mm 6 point socket also works just fine
i always hand tighten these and called it a day it's only plastic never had a problem and just hit 125,000 on my 2013 v6 charger
Last cold snap knocked out my oil cooler AND main seal. This should not happen to a motor with 55k miles. I do all my own “awl” changes, NEVER over tighten, 8-10 ft lbs, pretty much hand tighten then another 1/4 to a 1/2 turn, its plastic crap. I baby it, and still failed. My radiator went at 20k miles, front calipers at 35k miles, rear axle seal at 47k miles and tstat at 54k miles.
Ok that's some terrible luck what year and model?
ALWAYS put in an aftermarket oil cooler on these…. I enjoy doing them. So always be sure to do AFTERMARKET oil cooler. And be sure to NOT get the old o rings out of the block.
@@appledravianever reuse gaskets. It’s a general rule of thumb for anything
Those POS leak from the bottom without any breakage. FCA knows it, they used to keep them at the parts deal counter here in Orlando and didn't ven have to go pull stock. Fixed sister's car, a year late my own truck. What a joke.
Spelab makes good parts at a fair price. Looking at these for both of my 3.6 Pentastar Jeeps.
I have a 2017 Grand Cherokee with a lifetime warranty! At 85000 a couple months ago this had to be replaced due to a leak. Nothing to do with the cap. I do my own oil changes I don't over tighten. I have only had 2 issues with this car. Oil cooler and some motor on the rear dif. that caused a code. Otherwise I do the maint. and drive. I believe you are incorrect about the failure rate on this part. They diagnosed it over the phone. The dealer replaces these all the time.
Had a 2015 200 and my old cooler failed... not from user error but the oil cooler itself. Found a small puddle of oil under the car and did think much of it, parked at the drugstore and notice burning oil smell so shut the car off and investigated. The car dumped all of its oil into the valley of the engine and was flowing to the ground. Bought a jug of oil and filled it up and got it home. The aluminum cooler was the culprit. There was no aftermarket part yet so it was 400 ish dollars canadian for the cooler and intake gaskets and about an hours labour..
Wow good information thanks👍
It's actually the o ring seals and ports beneath the oil cooler/ filter housing(adapter) ..the plastic materials used to manufacture this part start to degrade and the o rings start to harden. Exactly like the hose ports on a plastic radiator..it was probably leaking much longer than you thought..its usually a slow creep down the bellhousing then the wind while driving blows it across the lower undercarriage and an actual drip and puddle never forms..
FYI they now offer a replacement that's 100% metal and has a major increase in reliability..
A dealership did my last oil change, now I have a P1098 code- engine oil sensor circuit. I imagine this is an expensive fix. How necessary is it to run out and replace sensor? No leaks~
25 newton-meters = 18 foot-pounds. Is Mopar specing in N-m now?
Did the dorman926-876 is an alum housing '14+ filter in my '13 Wrangler when I had intake off to change all the rocker arms
Awesome
Damn, dude, the Dorman aluminum replacement is $309 right now @ O'reillys, too! Even the Standard plastic replacement one is $289!! I'd be pissed if I was a Pentastar owner encountering this problem!!!🤬From what I've read, too, this design doesn't even incorporate an anti-drainback valve either! Hell, my 2010 GM 3.6l which also uses a cartridge-style filter has an anti-drainback valve built into the bottom of it AND it is all-aluminum from the factory!! The Pentastar was 1st released in what, 2011?
I have a 2016 Charger, and my girlfriend has a 2015 Grand Cherokee. Both around 118k miles both got a misfire. I replaced the plugs and misfire went away on both but yet both still had a random sputter. I'm going to change the coils to see if that helps. Any suggestions?
Most likely coil packs, every car with coils I've had with a random sputter needed them replaced.
@@gunwhores just an update. I changed the coil packs and all is well. So if you own a v6 pentastar with 118k miles or more and start getting a misfire I'd change plugs and coils together.
Plugs should be replaced every 100k. That’s service interval. Use high quality iridium plugs as well. NGK laser iridium is what I use.
The problem with the oil filter housing is it don't have an anti Drain back so when you start your vehicle you get dry starts all the time which wears out your cam lobes and lifters then it starts to tap
Do not over tighten. I get it. How many time do you need to repeat it.
You won't cross thread starting by hand. Got 182k trouble free miles on mine but I might do the metal housing when I do plugs.
White sharpie mark from day 1 on mating service No issues 260k on a 15 Durango
Not true: "Other than that, these things are not notorious for leaking or having issues."
Replacing mine with the Dorman - OE Solutions Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter Housing 926-876.
Yep, if mine fails again, will opt for this BUT will use Mopar seals, gaskets & sensors. I heard Dorman seals not good.
During the summer that "silly" engine cover sits in my garage. And get put back on for the cooler months. I dont wear a toque in the summer and neither do both of my 3.6's
Good information, 25 NM = 18.439053732 FT pounds. I guess stay away from those quickie oil change places or do it yourself? I recently bought a 2023 RAM 1500 classic Warlock with the 3.6, mine has the tow package, 355 gears, limited slip etc. 16-17 city MPG and 19 highway, i hit 20 MPG once but its got plenty of power for towing as i think its rated about 6500 pounds but i wont be towing
Which coolant temp sensor controls the fan? Is it the one in the oil cooler or the block?
25nm is 18lbs, that's a lot of torque for plastic on plastic, probably why they break in the first place. And then look at the design how it sticks up at a 45 angle that means torque on the whole assembly which is only held in place by those little bolts, and plastic.
I can't be a DYI' er then because I'm always cross-threading stuff, no matter how careful I am. Do you think the dealership can be trusted not to over-tighten or cross-thread?
120K miles and still going strong. 2017 Ram 1500 V6
You have no choice if you have someone else do the oil, but you do it yourself you hand screw, then wrench it till there is no gap. On my Promaster it is difficult to get at and hard to turn, I think it's good but there is still a gap, once the gap is gone I tighten it till the resistance increase. Mostly you don't want it to come unscrewed the threads are not filled with oil when you take it off, I don't think much pressure reaches the threads.
I think you torque the cap to18 foot lbs. Then mark it with paint so next time you don't use a torque wrench.
You can use a sharp chisel and carefully cut the cap away
I have a Grand Cherokee Altitude 2021 V6 3.6 with that engine and the problem that I have now when I go to turn it on, it remains stagnant, that problem would be the gasoline filter as you showed on your channel.
Watch your video, as for me it help alot, have a 2018 ram quad truck, had to check oil pressure sensor, which was pretty hard , but did my best any tip on that..
Got a 4x4 tradesman crew 34999 left over 2022. But I also got a 100k bumper to bumper. The ford 22 3.3 same type was 49k so rolled ram dice 7 months ago so far ok.
My 2013 had to be replaced 3x. Dodge dodge dealership had to replace my engine.
Cylinder 6 misfired. Am i in deep trouble? Few months ago I had a radioator leak as well
Could be a lifter
Replaced that engine was very reliable!
What would be the best year to buy if I was interested in a RAM 1500 V6? 2020? 2021?
2019- 2021 classic baby
25 N-M is only 221.27 In-Lbs! Get a torque wrench people!!!
I dont even need to tourqe it, once i see the flange on the cap touch, i make sure its snug and im good. That O-ring dose most of the work. I also make sure to rub some oil on the threads and the new O-rings. I was scared of this when we first got my wifes jeep, but now im in love with the 3.6. Ive since gotten a van issued to me at work and its a promaster with the 3.6. I love it. Truley becoming a big fan of mopar these days.
This is just a new twist on "only tighten the filter a 1/4 turn after gasket touches the base" for the spin on filters
Sorry but that oil filter design is garbage. Traditional spin on filters are time tested and fool proof. I do about 3000 oil changes a year and I can say canister type filter designs are an unnecessary evil.
A lot of foreign car makers use the cartridge style. If built well, they're great for no mess
I own 4 shops I’m a lead/master Chrysler tech. I’m the only 1 who can do new car warranty work on a minority of cars. The oil cap you are referring to does not need to be “torqued “ just tighten it til it’s t stops and about a 1/4-1/2 turn DONT TORQUE IT!!! I have a fleet of customers courtesy cars a total of 22 all Chryslers and the lowest mileage one I have is 97,888 miles the highest mileage one is 256k miles and doing the oil changes as I’ve described in tightening the filter cap I have no leaks and never replaced a SINGLE CAP OR unit!! And I have O LEAKS OR CRACKS AND AGAIN ALL ORIGINAL! Also I have a machine shop I use to make these units all aluminum top to bottom and these are bullet proof for those who are ignorant to have w to make properly tighten the plastic caps. Also I have a few cars in my fleet that are 2013 that had the different filters and caps that constantly had issues and even those I’ve yet to replace. So AGAIN!!! Tighten until it stops the a 1/4 to half an extra turn to seat the seal and done. The reason these get a bad rap is because people do these and break them because they aren’t mechanics and next thing you know it’s a pars issue because people are far to prideful to admit their screw ups! Also every 5.7 hemi after 2006/7 that has the ticking noise and end up patting for a new cam and lifters well there’s a way to prevent that and NO ITS NOT DISABLE THE MDS!!!! It’s a hell car high volume oil pump and the lifters from the hellcat (non MDS) replace these parts arts very easy and because the lifters weren’t designed for MDS you need to shut it down. The tic happens due to long idle times and low oil pressure at idle so the answer…. Is a high.flow oil pump. And you have a 5.7 that’ll never tick. Why. Do you think he I cop cars go up for auction with low miles ?? Because they idle for hours on end and they. Auction them with 40-50k miles and so we. Buy these cars up like they’re going out of style ESPECIALLY SINCE THE COP CARs are the only 5.7 hemi w/awd so we do the cam swap (a bigger cam) and do the oil pump. And lifters and shut the mds down to plus we machine and port the heads and we make a custom intake and on the dyno of an all wheel drive we make 490-575 wheel hp and all in we buy these cars for 2k approximately with hardly 50k miles and out of pork comes out to be 800-1,000 dollars so for 3k you get a 500-600hpmawd charger. And we build these for customers and they pay 7-10k dollars knowing what we pay plus we determine price mostly by the condition of the body and we make the interior like a normal charger srt-8 inside all thanks to our special fri nds at our go to. Interior shop. They do that for us and we do any mechanical work for them at a really discounted price I.e. building engines for their muscle cars and daily driver maintenance
Replace that oil plastic
Oil cooler with an aluminum Dorman oil cooler.
Make sure you get the 2016 and up current year pentastar engine fca remodel the those engines to address those drive train issues failed rocker arms ticking problems that plague 2015- 2011 models
Yeah those are the 3rd generation Pentastars, but unfortunately are only in the Durangos and Jeeps.
tick tick tick tick
@ronaldpeterson5552 not yet I hope it never will tick tick tick 🤷🏿🤦🏿🤣🤣😂😂😂
The 2016 also have the ticks and I keep seeing Chrysler keep getting sued for that tick issue till this day
Plastic fails especially due to the location of this part, why not use the upgraded all aluminum model?
Just warranty repaired this on my 2019 ram. It's 2/2/2022. If you ask me this plastic engine part is garbage. buyers remorse like a mother rn
Its not that bad however dorman now makes a all aluminum one.
@@FrostbiteRam good to know. If it becomes a recurring issue I'll definitely look into the dorman option. Thanks for letting me know about it and for the detailed video on this part.
@@fltommy8261 no problem thanks for stopping by the channel 🍻
Can i ask you a question? Does one failing part that every other manufacturer also has fail, sour your whole vehicle purchase in your mind?
Ps just like the Fords we have rocker arm failures pretty common look up pentastar tick. If you have a tick get her fixed asap super cheap now. Wait and camshafts need to be replaced. As fsr as them 2 issues thats pretty much it on these motors...well over millions of these motorz around in its various varieties 3.0 litre and 3.6 litre and generations of which there are 3 and they zre not the same be careful sourcing parts theres changes to the system and locations etc. I consider myself a Hyundai /Kia boy fo you know how many engines Hyundai has blowing up that they are not recalling? Its a lot. Ford has had serious issues with its engines since the late 90s starting with phasers on the 4.6 5.4 6.0 5.0 etc seriously seriously bad issues later in life too on there turbo based units and its associated 3.5. Anyways point being engines are not a problem for Chrysler and never have been. Its always been transmissions and part of that is user never service the fluid or knowing that it needs to be done and frequently as per severe driving maintenance schedule and partly also the compact sizes of various problematic transmissions such as the 41te 42rle 62te etc. Compact design and prone to overheating the fluids over 60,000 miles is pushing it for reliability of the transmission fluid changes and regular maintenance and shit... I put 250,000 on my 13 Journey no problem except for filter adapter and rocker arms. I put so far 170,000 on my 17 Durango again filter housing so far so good.
The problem is that nobody maintains there vehicles appropriately anymore and they are not going to be able to make it 150,000 anymore without regular maintenance and severe service schedule which is the way we all use our vehicle snd should be the default maintenance interval on our rides. Good luck take care trade it off right now while market is still hot and shop around for something else that might be a good fit for you :)
You will need it eventually lol the bottom seals go bad and then you get ooil underneath the cooler and it makes its way to the tranny too
There are a ton of aftermarket oil coolers out there for the 3.6 and 3.2 Pentastar motors that are aluminum instead of plastic for half the price. Get the aluminum!
Now yes, at the time of this video no.
I have a bad leak with my 2016 Dodge Charger. What’s the average shop cost to replace housing with aluminum?
I ordered the Dorman from Amazon with the fresh air mixing motor for under $300 this week. My local mechanic is charging $300 to install.
Old but good video. I have 2015 Wrangler with the 3.6. I also live in Florida. Had sudden changes in overnight temperatures. 80 degrees in the day 30 degrees overnight. Those change along with the engine cooling overnight caused many engines with this oil cooler to crack. I got mine replaced with OEM parts.
Thanks for sharing
I have a 2012 Dodge Charger and it’s starting to overheat while I drive and when I put it in park it starts to go back down slowly to normal range and sometimes it doesn’t any guess what the problem could be ?
Probably the thermostat
I have a 2016 ram 1500 3.6, after an oil change recently my check engine light came on, and the code was an oil pressure sensor and P06DE would stripping the cap or damage to the filter cap cause my check engine light error code?
I give up! What is a Newton Meter??
🤣
Owner of a 2015 Chrysler 200S with 310 thousand miles on the clock. Zero oil filter/cooler problems. Factory all plastic. 🤷
Awesome
Hmm I have 114k miles on My ram and I've been having a small leak of oil and now I have a small EVAP leak engine light on and I got a ticking noise I wonder if this thing is the culprit
i put a aluminum dorman in. a year later. leaking again.whats wrong now ?? i didnt over tight
I think i mess up. Oh well you live and learn. I have a ram 1500 cargo van high rooftop and I'm in love with my van.
Nothing to be scared of great engines.
Hello just wondering; what’s a great price to pay for oil cooler
It would be cool if they made a metal one for a higher price. I’m sure some people would pay extra for an aluminum option.
There is an aluminum option out there - just Google. I found one on Amazon for $170. Worth the extra money IMO for piece of mind and if you're keeping the car for a while.
@@OneJuanWon yes, make sure Dorman unit.
Dorman makes one. But I think the issue is the O-rings blowing out, so I’m not sure if the aluminum one will actually be more reliable.
If this happens, what code will your engine light give you?
Replaced my on 2015 jeep grand Cherokee, and the head gasket crap out. 😮💨
I have a 2015 dodge durango w/205000 miles. i already had to replace mine once.
Hey can one of those sensors make the car overheat?
Yes, it does you could either leak oil or leak water because of this part will make car over heat
This is why I go to the dealership for oil. They tear it up they can fix it.