Perhaps it just resonates with me specifically, but this strikes me as one of your best training/tips videos. Clear, concise and information dense. More with Maddy, please.
this is such a brilliant video. so many new nuggets. and trust me ive watched so many climbing videos online including lattice. thank you Maddyyyy you're a star!!! More maddy please.
Frog stretch is ideal for PNF stretching like that! It always amazes me how much deeper one can get into the stretch after a few contract/relax cycles. Thanks for the video, super useful!
That hip flexibility exercise... Didnt realise how awful my range of movement was, can't get anywhere close to flat haha. Definitely gonna be working on this. Cant move my knees much further apart than your regular just being on all fours rofl
It’d been a while-I keep coming back to this video. I take it back, it’s not “the best video by this channel,” it’s actually “the best video about crimps on the internet.”
i have the 4th simple trick. do a strength cycle on crimpd, and get stronger fingers. getting your hips in will help, but getting stronger fingers will help more.
also stronger shoulders, back and lumbar muscles. people should go to the gym. It's amazing how much better you can position yourself when you're strong enough to do so. Some of the techniques online coaches give us can only be applied after you have the strength to do so
Until you will find problems where you can apply your finger strength only with good position and body tension. You will hit the plateau wall very hard working only on finger strength.
Yeah but on many really small and/or negative holds and certain positions where you can only utilize your full strength with hips really close to the rock , having strong fingers will be a consolation prize. Never a bad thing but the roi on flexibility is just as high.
Cheers. Matilda Soderlund made a good point though (or was it Aidan Roberts?): that when crimping you should try to also contract your shoulder to relieve some of the stress from the hand. Am I deluded?
Ultimately climbing has so many factors that come into play. We work on this a lot in training. If you have weak fingers that can be compensated by better technique, more 'try hard', better body positioning, better strength elsewhere in the body. Ultimately you have to break down all of the aspects of your climbing and try to improve each and every one of them. This was an interesting and thought provoking video with some very useful tips in here. Nice short format too which is different but easy to access! Having just started making You Tube videos I didn't think the short format was welcomed by the algorithm though lol.
Perhaps it just resonates with me specifically, but this strikes me as one of your best training/tips videos. Clear, concise and information dense. More with Maddy, please.
I agree. I like her style.
We need more videos from Maddy Cope!!! This is gold! 🙌
this is such a brilliant video. so many new nuggets. and trust me ive watched so many climbing videos online including lattice. thank you Maddyyyy you're a star!!! More maddy please.
Frog stretch is ideal for PNF stretching like that! It always amazes me how much deeper one can get into the stretch after a few contract/relax cycles. Thanks for the video, super useful!
One of my favorite videos from this whole channel. Wow. Maddy, well done!
This video just helped my next move on a new problem I'm doing, thank you
This is golden!! thanks!
I really appreciated the tips. Maybe the next one can be "How to crimp faster" (snatchy moves)?
love this short and very informative format!
That hip flexibility exercise... Didnt realise how awful my range of movement was, can't get anywhere close to flat haha. Definitely gonna be working on this. Cant move my knees much further apart than your regular just being on all fours rofl
I'm 100 miles away from reaching that open hip position. I think more fingerboarding is the way to go for me
If that exercise is very hard I think that's a sign that you SHOULD be doing it, or at least an easier variation
@@bennyorthner7223 I'm really hoping the original comment was a joke, hehe
Really useful and concise video :D
Thanks Maddy!
Mad(dy) hip mobility. That's next level mobile in the hips.
Eu sempre passo a tecnica 2° para meus alunos, pois os 2 pes acabam confundindo em qual focar o equilíbrio e geralmente na mesma linha
Great video, thank you!
Excellent video, more Maddy and her insane frog flexibility
wearing the best shoes ever 🤜🏽👌🏽
It’d been a while-I keep coming back to this video. I take it back, it’s not “the best video by this channel,” it’s actually “the best video about crimps on the internet.”
Sorry, but I would love to see these exercises much more with "normal" people. She has like god-level hip flexibility
For me this video is more about how to climb on vert but on crimps. But nonetheless good video.
Maddy uses all these tactic on our 45 degree board with great success. But as you say these apply really well to the vert too.
i have the 4th simple trick. do a strength cycle on crimpd, and get stronger fingers. getting your hips in will help, but getting stronger fingers will help more.
also stronger shoulders, back and lumbar muscles. people should go to the gym. It's amazing how much better you can position yourself when you're strong enough to do so. Some of the techniques online coaches give us can only be applied after you have the strength to do so
Until you will find problems where you can apply your finger strength only with good position and body tension. You will hit the plateau wall very hard working only on finger strength.
Yeah but on many really small and/or negative holds and certain positions where you can only utilize your full strength with hips really close to the rock , having strong fingers will be a consolation prize. Never a bad thing but the roi on flexibility is just as high.
Cheers. Matilda Soderlund made a good point though (or was it Aidan Roberts?): that when crimping you should try to also contract your shoulder to relieve some of the stress from the hand. Am I deluded?
It's not about crimping harder it's just about climbing better haha, these advices are useful for every hold you can't hold imo
i learned alot from campusing my hands work together perfectly
Willing to bet that "terrible" finger strength on a fingerboard is like +50% bw or something silly
I think it's implied that it's "weak fingers for the grade", not in absolute terms.
I won't speak for Maddy and say exact numbers but I know she would be VERY happy if she had +50% bw. I don't think she's been close to that number.
no warming op for the fingers 😉
Good video. Thanks
Ultimately climbing has so many factors that come into play. We work on this a lot in training. If you have weak fingers that can be compensated by better technique, more 'try hard', better body positioning, better strength elsewhere in the body. Ultimately you have to break down all of the aspects of your climbing and try to improve each and every one of them. This was an interesting and thought provoking video with some very useful tips in here. Nice short format too which is different but easy to access! Having just started making You Tube videos I didn't think the short format was welcomed by the algorithm though lol.