Corroseal Rust Converter Test Application and Results
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- Опубліковано 20 кві 2021
- Testing out Corroseal rust converter on the subframe from my 2008 Chevy Cobalt SS. Topped off with a coat of paint, looking great! Much cheaper alternative to POR-15 with less hassle, too. Hope y'all enjoy!
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I wish everyone made videos of this quality. Very well done
Great video. I have used this on my trucks living in the rust belt area. Prep, prep, prep, prep, this guy is right about that. My trucks have held up decent with this stuff. Again, great video. New subscriber here for sure.
Not much salt on the roads down here thankfully. Glad to know it should hold up!
@@PoweredByDave1 I've been using motor oil over it for a long time know and that helps it stay on decent. Paying attention to spring hangars and metal bolt joints is important the oil creeps into those areas. Blaster works even better stays on longer
I wire wheeled and scuffed my frame on one of my old pickups, then sprayed the frame down with a kerosene based engine degreaser, rinsed the frame with a power washer then scrubbed with soap and water then power washed again, it’s worked well for me. Getting ready to paint.
Good job on your video.
After 5yrs on two cars and a work truck.
I stand behind Rustoleum " REFORMER"
It sprays out watery, then drys to a Batman Black!
It lasts outside ( work truck bumpers, didn't fade or rerust!
I've used it on both resto mods on everything as they were both holee rusted out cars, cut and put new metal everywhere and Reformer on the portions left with rust ( not rot).
5 years it's MY go to rust killer. I've tried many.
Tractor supply is cheapest, than Walmart, then Lowe's/ home depot which ever carry's rustoleum paint.
"REFORMER"
DO NOT SAND IT OFF, GREEN SCRUFF PAD IT AND PUT PRIMER ON TOP. I use 2k primers and top coats.
And I use Raptor bedliner AS Undercoat, it's 2k and tuff as a plastic gas can. Stays Black
And tuff !
You use the rattle can Rust-Oleum Reformer?
I haven't tried the Rustoleum brand, but I did try another rattle can converter once. Followed the instructions to a T. Didn't work for beans. Glad to hear at least Rustoleum got it right!
Thanks for great video with directions for proper use. Most want take the time to do that.
Glad it was helpful!
I did the rear frame on my F150 with Corroseal followed by red Rust-Oleum. A year later, still perfect.
I'm about to do the same on my 74 F100. That's just what I wanted to hear!
Interesting Saw another video. Guy said he had to recoat his truck every year. Did not hold up.
@@charlescoker7752 - was he putting a couple of coats of paint or clear coat over it?
It's hard work that you made look easy I got to do my running boards wish me luck
Good luck!
Hey brother, thanks for the video!
Youre the first to mention no acetone, which is exactly what i was going to use. So many million thanks for saving me the heartache!
I just traded my civic for a '94 Impala SS, the body is rust free but the frame is solid hard rust. I live in the rust belt, but wont be driving the ss in the winter. So im going to do this process and hopefully it ends all further rust problems. Shes a car worth saving!
Yep I should have read the instructions before I started LOL
When things turn purplish black round here usually mean ya got fingers pinched in the hood of a door or other body parts like wise injured
I have used Corroseal for so many projects... everything from rusty door hinges, wheelbarrows, outdoor furniture, fencing, and of course automotive applications. It is the MOST AMAZING PRODUCT I have ever used. I spent $16 on a 32oz bottle about 10 years ago & I still have about 12oz left!!!! IMPORTANT TIP: DO NOT STORE anywhere that will get HOT, like a GARAGE or SHED. The material at the bottom of the bottle will rubberize & you will lose product.
Are you a scammer? you post this exact message on every Corroseal video. Are you payed by the manufacturer? lol
Thanks. Very good video.
Glad you liked it!
Very good video. One thing I'm wondering about is how the acid affects the metal after the rust is gone. Many similar products advise you to wash off the acid before you apply paint. Is this one different? I'm wondering because I've got a rusty truck frame , but no plans of taking the whole truck apart. Brush on and paint over is much easier than having to wash it off thoroughly, especially when you're under the truck.
Just bought a gallon gonna try this on my horse trailer
I've used it on a few other things around the "ranch". Just make sure it's clean, no loose rust, and it'll work great.
Wonder how this would hold up on the underside of a mower deck. With a epoxy paint?
I noticed you applied it to already painted surface is that why you scuff it up with the scoring pad ??? I was wondering that cause the frame I want to do still has factory paint in spots and did t know if I had to strip to bare metal and use a metal etching primer .... Thanks in advance for any response
Can You Put A Rust Shield (Like CRC) Over this Corroseal After it Dries?
I used this on my 93 Silverado frame about 4 years ago. The truck doesn't have a bed and sits outside. I top coated the corroseal with a Rust-Oleum gloss black enamel. I prepped it just like you did. The frame exposed to the elements behind the cab rusted underneath the paint like you'd expect from a rubberized coating. I've only been driving the truck for the last year and a half, and only about 200 miles total. I was disappointed to say the least.
Ugh that's certainly discouraging. Especially once you've been through all the prep to make it happen!
It was but I've switched back to old faithful from when I lived in Ohio, which was NH oil undercoating. They have a back to black version that does really well, and looks good.
None of these products are as effective as to what the factory does. And obviously, even that rusts after time. Heavy galvanizing is always the best, but is expensive.
Spraying with any paint helps, but you really need three coats. Because all these finishes are porous, and several coats cover the microscopic holes from the lower layer.
@@pimperado06 I've pretty much come to the conclusion that coating rusty frames in oil is the only way to go in the rust belt! NH oil is kinda king in my book! Anything on the body of my car gets Fluid Film, anything under the car gets Black NH oil. I have been seeing videos regarding PB Blaster's new product, I may have to read up on it and see what the hype is all about.
I’m trying it out this week on my kenworth frame
Good luck! I'll be curious how it holds up after a million miles.
I would say the way it is brushed on makes a huge difference in how it looks when it dries.
I agree. I might try spraying it on my next project, see how smooth it comes out.
I'm going to try using my 4" wooster mini roller... might have to do more coats... but it should go a lot faster, and come out smoother.
How is that spray paint not an oil base? What's going on there I thought oil base is gonna have thinners. I guess if it dries really quick it's kinda like it's not there
Can this work on Aluminium corrosion?
1 gallon of Prep & Etch is $20 at Home Depot... Cut it 4:1 I'll try this.. For cleaning I use Purple Power...
Yep I've used that as well, and it lasts forever. Phosphoric acid rather than tannic. Does a great job at neutralizing rust. The big difference is Corroseal also acts as a primer, ready to paint when it's dry.
@@PoweredByDave1 110% nice stuff..
So…what should I do if I used mineral spirits?? I watched a UA-cam tutorial and they said to use it for prep 🤦♀️. I laid it on thick and it did turn black, so hopefully it worked?!
Good question. If you got the reaction then I suppose you're okay. I guess it depends on how long you waited between prep and application.
Any updates on this product is holding up?
I need that Ford grill setting behind you
No sir. That's for my 74 F100. ;) Got some videos on it coming up.
A gallon of the POR version ( 40701 ) on Amazon is $29.99. You are comparing the POR paint VS Corroseal conversion liquid.
That looks similar to Evap-o-rust, for soaking parts and dissolving rust. This is a coating and needs to be top-coated just like the POR15 coating.
Still por 15 comes off in sheets the rust still doesn't absorb or react with por15.
I think por 15 is great for many projects it's just not Automotive tuff as they claim. Paint anything non automotive and it's great!
I pushed the subscribed button there Dave, good average guy hard at work video... Maybe we could do a vid together one day but yáll seem a bit down far south there...
Does corroseal dry clear?
Yes, although any rust it converts will be blackish/purple. It requires a topcoat.
How is it holding up a couple of months later? I live in the rust belt and am looking to do this soon.
So far so good. I even spilled some brake fluid on it with no damage.
I’ve used Coroseal for 15 years for maintenance (under extremely expensive catelyzed topcoats) on ocean going tugboats. If you follow the instructions to a T it will serve you very well. You don’t want to have any clean bare-ish metal (via power wire wheeling,etc) as Coroseal likes and needs some oxidation to work with. This man’s work was perfect. When you have a deep purple black finish, you are GOLDEN. It’s nontoxic, but don’t get it in your eyes. The stuff is outstanding. Good luck on your project!
Has it held up?
Seems to be just fine, although we haven't been through any winter weather yet. Not like we get much around here anyhow!
how is it holding up?
I have sold the car, but I did go help the guy I sold it to with a few things under the hood. Still looks as good as when I coated it!
better than ospho?
It's much thicker than ospho (or kleen-strip prep n etch). So that's good and bad. Good because it sticks in place like on a vertical panel, but bad because it's harder to get into the small pin holes. They both have their uses for sure.
Let's see it a year later
I might not have the car that long. lol
Been using Coroseal for 14 years in a harsh commercial salt water environment. If you follow the directions to a T, it performs awesome. You can electric wire wheel/hand wire brush your surface but try to not get too crazy going to bare metal...this will get you a nicer finish under a topcoat, but Coroseal ROCKS.
It lasts for years for me, so it should be great in an around the farm/non harsh salt environment! You can get away with using the cheap non fancy brushes, and when it turns that deep blackish purple you are doing great. The goal is to not have any milky white dried streaks leftover from an excess application. POR 15 is junk, and as you mentioned, when properly stored, Coroseal lasts along time. Great review!!!
Thanks- Follow up ?
I have sold the car, but I did go help the guy I sold it to with a few things under the hood. Still looks as good as when I coated it!
Cool, thanks
No problem!
If you need to CLEAN IT, WIRE BRUSH IT, WASH IT, DRY IT ..than how is it any better than regular PRIMER?!
I hear ya. Just gotta knock off the loose rust. But ya still have to neutralize the rust somehow before you paint. Otherwise it's gonna come right back.
It chemically bonds to rust is the point of a "converter"
Primer adheres to bare metal. But does not contain chemical converter. Even self etching primer isn't a " converter" but it adheres better to bare metal.
The chemical make up is the difference over primer.
How ever after you use converter lightly scruff with green pad and prime it.
Do not resand the converter off. This is where people FAIL.
@@MindDezign Awesome!! That wasn't covered in the video and always wondered. Appreciate the comment.
Hahaha you call that rust!
lol yep I'm a Southern boy, I don't know what rust is!
@@PoweredByDave1 wish I could say that I've restored more rust buckets than I care to admit. A good rust converter like blue steel is good. Por15 is a waste but por top coat is good and leaves a nice finish.
This stuff is garbage. I bought 2 gallons. Did mine and my son's truck frames. looks great going on. Topcoated both frames. Within 3 months, both frames were peeling. Leaving rusty blotches behind. Our prep work was proper. We wasted 3 weekends on each truck. I'm not sure how well this stuff converts rust to magnetite, but as a primer, it does not grab and hold the surface well. Check out "Repair geeks" & "Project farms" video on rust converters.
I was a por15 fan for several years but that stuff will make you poor and it too fails.
The best product by far for stopping rust is MASTERCOAT. It's cheaper, less labor intensive, and 14 times more durable than poor15 in the salt fog test. They use it on bridges. Do it once, do it right, mastercoat.
Right now it's 9 months after I corrosealed my truck frame. I have taken my truck apart and I am removing the rest of the corroseal so I can apply mastercoat. Sorry dude. No disrespect to you and your channel. I was just as happy with corroseal as you were at the end of your video. Maybe you could do a follow up video and let us know how it's holding up for you.