This was brilliant, thank you. Really helpful demonstration of removing the driveshafts. Just need to figure out how to turn the prop to get the differential off which is the primary job in hand. Hoping that getting all 4 wheels off the ground, putting it in neutral and spinning the wheels will allow access to all the bolts necessary to remove the prop shaft.
Another great video! Glad you mentioned about the two different hub nut threads and the importance of fitting a new hub nut! 😬 One thing that caught me out was how tight the hub nut is…395Nm! Had to use an impact gun to undo the old one and buy a new stronger torque wrench to do the new one up on mine.
Just a thought Simon...undoing that trailing link to get more movement and access...I seem to recall that being used as adjustment for the rear tracking when I had my Freelander set up. I just wondered if the tracking needed to be checked now? Otherwise..brave work...next stop...rebuilding the Transfer Box for beginners!!😀😀😀😀 Stay safe..Richard😃😃😃
I suspect mine too was damaged when the lift kit was installed. However, I was lucky enough to find a guy on eBay selling new old stock (NOS) shafts complete for only £30 + free postage ! He had 200+, they had got damp in a shipping container , apparently and had very light surface rust on the shaft only, the joints were protected in bags. They were so cheap, I bought 2.
Just a quick side note - if you've increased the tyre size along with lifting the Freelander 2, you may want to check the vehicle's jack can still raise the vehicle enough to remove wheels in the event of a puncture. Best to check before you venture out, as chucking a wooden block in the boot could be the difference between getting home - or waiting around for the recovery service, or worse - getting stranded at an off road course for the sake of a block of wood. Yes, you could always drive on a flat until you reach civilisation and call out the AA , but you'll wreck a rim in the process !
Like the video. Good stuff. Sure would appreciate any explanation of the SYMPTOMS showing this work is necessary. 2013 LR2 (US) shuddering badly on acceleration at highway speeds under load. Car perfectly smooth coasting. Light driving in parking lot no problems detected no noises, no grinding. Thinking some flex disc or coupling on drive shafts? Or should I try to test CV joints. I'm not a pro jock, just a little guy. Any help thoughts from anywhere appreciated.
Simon, they look like Oetiker LOW PROFILE clamps used on that particular cv boot. A Google search should bring up suitable pliers. The pliers look a bit like pincers but open extra wide, have low profile Jaws and allow you to add downward pressure whilst sliding the two ends over each other and on to the hooks. Take a look at the Beta 1473P as an example.
Hello, thanks to your videos, I could fix a lot of problems with my car. Regarding this video, my qıestion is, can I reach the drive shaft seals within the diff without removing the wheel hub? It seems releasing the carrier bars will let enough spaceto dothe job, right?
Nooooooooo, sharp end flying around does not bear thinking about. Not to mention it will be out of balance and rot out in no time. Crimp clips only for this job.
Саймон, с уважением из России! Хочу предостеречь! Не стоит закладывать большой объëм смазки в резиновый пыльник. Его может легко разорвать в следствии центробежной силы или сорвать с хомута. Также в этом нет смысла. Смазка из пыльника практически не попадает в шрус. Достаточно добавить смазку только в шарнир. P. S. Надеюсь транслейтер донесëт мою мысль😊
This was brilliant, thank you. Really helpful demonstration of removing the driveshafts. Just need to figure out how to turn the prop to get the differential off which is the primary job in hand. Hoping that getting all 4 wheels off the ground, putting it in neutral and spinning the wheels will allow access to all the bolts necessary to remove the prop shaft.
Another great video! Glad you mentioned about the two different hub nut threads and the importance of fitting a new hub nut! 😬 One thing that caught me out was how tight the hub nut is…395Nm! Had to use an impact gun to undo the old one and buy a new stronger torque wrench to do the new one up on mine.
Just a thought Simon...undoing that trailing link to get more movement and access...I seem to recall that being used as adjustment for the rear tracking when I had my Freelander set up. I just wondered if the tracking needed to be checked now? Otherwise..brave work...next stop...rebuilding the Transfer Box for beginners!!😀😀😀😀 Stay safe..Richard😃😃😃
I suspect mine too was damaged when the lift kit was installed. However, I was lucky enough to find a guy on eBay selling new old stock (NOS) shafts complete for only £30 + free postage ! He had 200+, they had got damp in a shipping container , apparently and had very light surface rust on the shaft only, the joints were protected in bags. They were so cheap, I bought 2.
Just a quick side note - if you've increased the tyre size along with lifting the Freelander 2, you may want to check the vehicle's jack can still raise the vehicle enough to remove wheels in the event of a puncture. Best to check before you venture out, as chucking a wooden block in the boot could be the difference between getting home - or waiting around for the recovery service, or worse - getting stranded at an off road course for the sake of a block of wood. Yes, you could always drive on a flat until you reach civilisation and call out the AA , but you'll wreck a rim in the process !
You guys are great. Where I live you have to do your own mechanical so awesome to have your videos.
Being able to fix your car can save time and money and as you say sometimes where you live you have no choice !
You 2 work so well together.
I lost count of how many ppl he got thru before he found Tyler in the packing department 🤣
Yes happy to find Tyler as my workshop buddy but we do have lots of people on the team... will try and show some of the team...
Like the video. Good stuff. Sure would appreciate any explanation of the SYMPTOMS showing this work is necessary. 2013 LR2 (US) shuddering badly on acceleration at highway speeds under load. Car perfectly smooth coasting. Light driving in parking lot no problems detected no noises, no grinding. Thinking some flex disc or coupling on drive shafts? Or should I try to test CV joints. I'm not a pro jock, just a little guy. Any help thoughts from anywhere appreciated.
Sitting in the Sun watching powerful UK 🇬🇧
Enjoy !
@@L663 😎
Tyler’s annual employee bonus upgrade from Fiesta to Freelander for all his good hard work? 😀👌👊
Simon, they look like Oetiker LOW PROFILE clamps used on that particular cv boot. A Google search should bring up suitable pliers. The pliers look a bit like pincers but open extra wide, have low profile Jaws and allow you to add downward pressure whilst sliding the two ends over each other and on to the hooks. Take a look at the Beta 1473P as an example.
Yes these seem to be the tool of choice... thanks for the info... I will add this to the description !
Hey, maybe anyone could tell me is there any difference between 2007 and 2011 diesel's AT driveshafts?
Hi 🙋♂️ very good 😌 job and very professionally done ✅ I personally like 👍 the way you done and you are too nice 👍
👌🙏🙏
Thank you very much Mr Virdi !
Hello, thanks to your videos, I could fix a lot of problems with my car.
Regarding this video, my qıestion is, can I reach the drive shaft seals within the diff without removing the wheel hub? It seems releasing the carrier bars will let enough spaceto dothe job, right?
Yes i think you would have a good chance of getting enough movement to pop the inner CV joints out
simon ! another top vid !!! totally unrelated question how horrendous is it to change a disco 3 manual gearbox ? cheers
Hi - I am not sure about this one - never had to do a gearbox or clutch change !
Is there a wheel alignment adjustment to check?
I use old black nail remover for the clips rather than cobbs. Though cobbs looks like it has more leverage.
For some reason I was thinking of nail varnish remover... but yes "pincers" are an alternative although they do not press down in the centre.
Warts and all engineering! Great work. That shaft looked like a toy size for a 4wd though. 👍🏻🙏🏽😷🦘
Well done 👍
Thank you 👍
Hi did you check you put the clips on the right way round like a Horse shoe clip on a bicycle chain
Ooops no - which clip are you referring to ?
@@L663 the gaiter clips
Awesome video!
Did you put the diff side in 1st or the hub side?
Good point - diff side in first - then we angled the hub and put the hub side in.
C.V grease is usually grey, thought it was strange one lot was different.
Yes I too was a little surprised !
would a couple of jubilee clips be an easier choice?
Nooooooooo, sharp end flying around does not bear thinking about. Not to mention it will be out of balance and rot out in no time. Crimp clips only for this job.
As Andy has stated there is not much room between the CV joint and the hub casing !
How much does a complete half shaft cost?
About £400 !
Range Rover Sport L494 CARBON FIBER HOOD
The greas is to pack the joint not the gather or the joint mite start to knock just saying lol
Yes indeed the rubber does not need lube ! Its the metal parts that wear... but it all gets thrown around inside !
Саймон, с уважением из России!
Хочу предостеречь! Не стоит закладывать большой объëм смазки в резиновый пыльник. Его может легко разорвать в следствии центробежной силы или сорвать с хомута. Также в этом нет смысла. Смазка из пыльника практически не попадает в шрус. Достаточно добавить смазку только в шарнир.
P. S. Надеюсь транслейтер донесëт мою мысль😊
the universal ones are cheapo use the genuine ones
Yes they did not seem to take much force before they broke !
1😁
Confirmed !
@@L663 😂😎