Latest Automotive LED Technology TESTED!!
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2024
- Latest Automotive LED Technology TESTED!! Testing Two 194 168 LED Options!! Newest 194 LED Options Tested!! #AutomotiveLED #BestLED #194LED
** I am an Amazon associate. I make a commission based on sales through my Amazon associate links.**
SeaLight 194 LED: amzn.to/3FvxVfr
Auxito 194 LED: amzn.to/3DO3M9M
www.1roadgarage.com
In this video I compare two of the latest available 194 automotive LED lights I could find on Amazon. Both are designed wildly different but meant for the same applications. We compare the light color and output as well as build quality.
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places.
00:00 Intro
00:39 The Two LEDs
01:42 Heat Issues
03:48 Comparing The Light
05:32 LED Design
07:16 LED Disassembly
11:17 LED Problem Solving
13:30 Conclusion - Авто та транспорт
There's a lot of misinformation here. Heat is not determined by the number of LEDs, heat is determined by how much current is having to be dissipated. You need to read the resistance values of the resistors and figure out how much current each LED is trying to dissipate. I guarantee you that the two LED 194 version has it's two LED's being driven really hard to try and makeup for the light difference, while the 12 LED version can have it's LEDs being driven less as there's more LEDs to dissipate the current. So why don't manufacturers just stick as many LEDs on as possible? First there's cost, but second is Chinesium build quality. These cheap SMD LEDs are a lottery of quality, and more LEDs is greater odds of getting a bad LED that will kill the entire board. It's all a trade-off between more LEDs to current dissipation and less LEDs for less components to fail.
beat me to it
the heat is a factor of how hard the LEDs are driven.
2 LEDs producing the same amount of light are going to be driven much harder than the 12 led version
Needs a FLIR, I would have a guess the 12 LED one will last longer and run cooler: probably driven with less current, and more mass to dissipate heat.
@Aaron Courtney it really depends how they drive the led, there are many methods to drive an led , you can limit its current and increase it lifespan drasticly
The amount of led doesn't really matter here, there are datasheets for every led and the manufacture suppose to look up this data and desgin thier circuit in a proper way so the led will last.
But all those manufacturers dont care about it, they are making the most simple and dumest solution to drive the led so it will fail on perpose with time so you'll buy a new one
some cars when using these will mess up the whole lighting system. Like a Lincoln town car. You will need a resistor that plugs in line or you'll pull hair out just trying to see better. Ask me how I know.
@That V8 Life I only know what I have done and it's worked or not. I wish some of the Web experts would get a cold can of STFU from the fridge and chug it. So many give bad advice. Slam urr sack in a toilet seat and you'll ejaculate 400% More semen daily. That only works if u want 2 gain size and girth. When I was a small boy my mom had a sea shell toilet seat. When u picked up lid and seat you'd have to hold it or it'd fall down. It was a heavy seat. I would just dangle my unit over the porcelain and while laying there pee. Well the seat came down with a crash. For a few days I had biggest unit of any boy ever from the swelling and only good part of walking around with it in a dixie cup with ice is the dark purple bruise. Also u never put it in things where u can't pull it out if it grows. In 80s they'd put muppet characters like bath toys on top of shampoo bottles and soap for kids. U can guess where this is going so I'll stop here. Nothings more embarrassing than have urr parents tell those 2 life happenings to all they meet and GF and wife. Called Kermit to this day. After 4 decades I thought it'd be forgot. Still waiting.
@That V8 Life Who am I insulting? I wrote sarcasm and funny story and u take as a insult? Did I say U GIVE BAD ADVICE? Or U DON'T KNOW WTF URR TALKING ABOUT? Nope. I said I wish some experts would stfu. Then I used sarcasm in slamming unit in toilet seat and told a funny story. U don't understand comedy do u? R u 1 of those who thinks gender is fluid? Or u need 8 boosters to be safe from a cold? Or are u just mistaken? I've got 30 years of r frame off restoration experience, classic cars from model As, old trucks, cars hot rods to VW bugs. I'm agreeing with you that everyone seems to be a expert in all things.
I think you mistakenly used urr wife's face wash with the pumice. It happens. I did that before. See the soap has tiny particles of pumice, etc that exfoliates the skin. But when you wash it off it flows down and gets trapped around urr clam and leads to Sandy clam syndrome. Or sandy sack syndrome. Where it rubs and irritates the delicate gender fluid organs and causes ppl to be temporarily irritated and not thinking clearly. It's ok. Just rinse very well and use Bag Balm and in a day or so u be as good as new.
Stay away from exfoliating scrubs. Oh and don't eat Cinnamon toast crunch. It's made with paint thinner. Look it up and open urr mind. U have a great day now V8 Life.
Some friendly advice: Never cut towards yourself.
More LED chip sets often means it last longer as they can be under driven because there is more of them to produce light and that can help keep them cooler. More LEDs doesn’t always mean brighter.
in efficiency term it always better to have alot of leds in lower voltage than one big led that have to be at peak power to generate same light.. because the last 10% at peak power is much likely lost to heat anyway
Your "heat dissipation" theory is spot on - Heat is the enemy of any LED bulb. I recently did a test and measured the amperage of my SUV's interior of the "194 bulbs" pulled. It was 5.5 Amps. in total. I replaced all with LED's and it now pulls 1 amp all together.
Wondering why you didn't test it with a heat gun and see what temp they all run at? Temp gun.
That's the Project Farm channel.
@@pkokkinis
Yeah - sugggest it to him, will you?
I believe they add more LED's so that any one doesn't get as hot, yet has the same or better light output. Also if one LED fails, it's be hardly noticable.
I have the Sealight 194 bulbs in various positions on both my vehicles and I really like them.
They even fit the cramped license plate light spots.
I have the autozone led 194 in my car since 2018 i had them as my side marker light and license plate light. Still works to this day. The price sucks but I haven’t had to replace any yet.
Nice job Jimmy.👍👍
Good stuff Jimmy! I'm in the same camp...less # of LEDs should run cooler. Thanks for sharing.
Great camera work
The Sylvanias have been the best store bought that I've found in my many years of lighting. Have never had a problem with my 194 license plate lights or marker lights
Very good information
The Auxito lamp claims to use 1.2w; the Sealight claims to use 2w. Not only does the Auxito have to dissipate less heat overall, but each Auxito element has to handle only 0.1w, whereas each side of the Sealight has to contend with 1.0 - ten times as much from a pair of emitters that appear to be about the same size. If anything is going to die from heat, it'll be the Sealight.
Great info..
From the time I've spent looking at led lights for the vehicle (interior and exterior). The whole thing looks a complete nightmare, quality, brightness and reliability are all I need to know about. Thinking of sticking to good quality brighter non led ones for now. Shame because led lights have been around for a few years now and here we are on the brink of 2023 and still none the wiser
Led failure from heat is only a problem for the none name brands the sylvania zevo which are the top of the line led for sylvania that has heat sink built in
I have auxito bulbs in my car they work just as good as the day I bought them 2 years ago but they are designed differently than those you bought I have some that have heatsinks in them
Hello Jimmy
Thank you for another Great Video 👍 I can't wait for you to answer your question. How long? Again thank you 😊
I don't like the smaller led circuits, I like having more LEDs because they better suit replacing the old factory bulbs whilst the 2 led ones have less of an output compared to the original one
If you run more leds at a lower power level would probably last a lot longer and might not produce as much heat
I purchased the Sealight 194 LEDs for my interior lights on my GMC Envoy and after about 2-3 months they almost all started to flicker, and being interior lights they are only on periodically. I am now looking into the Auxito brand lights because of other reviews. let us know what the long term reliability of these will be please.
great video!🌚👍
Nice review
I would be curious to see which one looks better if you after leaving them on all night and which one gets hotter. You can't really provide a long term test but you could measure the temperature after leaving them on for a long time
Great video. I decided to upgrade the exterior bulbs on my 2003 Silverado to Leds. They all work great except when I plug the front amber bulbs into the sockets it knocks out the 194's in the front and rear and when I try the blinkers it makes the flasher buzz. I did replace the flasher unit to a led one. Any suggestions?
Go with VLEDs. They're expensive as hell, but you cannot beat the warranty and the OUTPUT. Holy crap they're amazing.
Agreed. I stopped buying cheap LED bulbs many years ago. I only use Philips and VLEDs. Small VLEDs are made mostly with aluminum, and they offer nice & warm amber colors.
Good video
If you really like the color of the incandescents, there are LEDs that come close with the advantages of efficiency and brightness. Look for bulbs with a color temperature of 3000K or 2700K (degrees Kelvin). The lower the temperature, the "warmer" the light. 3000K is about like halogen.
i would like to see more warmer looking LED's in cars, yeah white is pretty but it sucks for contrast sometimes and i find myself unable to see as well when looking for something even if the light is brighter, and same goes for whiter headlights, i find it easier on my eyes to have a lower color temp. especially long hours of night driving
Good review , I agree that heat is an issue and could even melt some of the plastics if say your rear dome lights were on a long time. I would suggest one other test, get a Infrared Thermometer Gun and measure the heat generated of both bulbs. Looking forward to your update.
Concur, How about adding an amp meter to tell us how much each one draws? Perhaps I just end up with cheap led bulbs but these always seem to start flickering, go dim, or go out, even the 3157 types.
The heat does not come from the LED. It is generated in the current limiting resistor.
I'm using the AUXITO in some landscape lighting, Have the on dust to dawn and one went out after 25 days. Lets see how the rest hold up.
I bought Sylvania Zevo Super Bright Leds. I have also bought leds from Super Bright Leds. They are the 194's and 74's. My headlights are led from Oracle lighting they are the V Series with no fan. The leds from Super Bright Leds have a glass wedge and are dimmable. I want to change all of the lights in the dashboard cluster to led which takes 194's and 74's. I have changed out the ac/heater control lights to led they look very modern now. Most of my 2000 Camry LE is led now. Once I get it changed over I'll be happy with it.
I’m not an engineer; but I believe it’s the electrical current itself that builds the heat. The aluminum will help dissipate it as aluminum doesn’t hold heat like steel does. Glass also dissipates much better than the plastic of those other LEDS which hardly dissipate heat at all.
Did the auxito bulb fit into the socket ok?
My subaru had been owned by someone who put high output lights everywhere and unfortunately all the bulb sockets need replaced. Do not know if it is from bulb heat or draw but would love to know two things- amp draw, and where to buy heavier duty sockets with wires for all my subaru lighting points..lol... along with a rear window third light that looked cooler and had turn signal option without blowing up the rear window-haha
As technology connections points out - the lenses of car lights are fresnel lenses and the position of the glowing filament is magnified significantly across the entire light. I don’t see LEDs emulating this behavior usually so thanks for comparing these two lights since the 2 led one may offer a more correct refraction pattern than the other
Does anyone know if any of these leds are dimmable. My car has soft start and soft off; I would like to retain the ambiance. It would be useful to know how much less current they use as well.
Anything over 6K is too blue, IMO.
My suburban was dead this morning because I left the one light in the back on … had the use the wife’s tahoe to jump start lol. I got some led light strips that I’m working into the done lights in my suburban so I can take out those hot 194 incandescent ones.
they're a touch spendy compared to some other options, but i tend to stick with gtr lighting products now, most of them are designed to mimic the filament placement of incandescents so sticking them in old housings gives the same result. for the few they don't have products for, i'll try to find something that suits. (mostly bayonet style)
for example, the t10s, they have multiple variants, starting at 6 for the regular style, and upwards of 12 for a top end option. there's also a 4 led low profile option for things like gauge clusters that faces upwards from the blades that fit in the socket, instead of outwards from the body like the largest flat side of the auxitos in this video.
I recommend a laser temperature gun for more concise temperature readings.
It’s not the led that burns out. It’s the led driver that fails.
I have sealight high beams definitely very bright.
The little component you didn’t know what it was is a diode; the slightly better-designed 194 LEDs have these so that they can be polarity-independent. You can insert them any way you want and it’ll work just like the old incandescent bulb did.
Cheaper LEDs only have the current-limiting resistor and no diode, so they will only work when inserted one way. This also makes them useless for applications where the polarity reverses as part of normal operation (front side markers on the C4 Corvette comes to mind).
The diode by itself only keeps the LED from frying if it's reverse-biased. You'd need a bridge rectifier or four diodes wired like one to be able to plug the bulb in polarity-independent.
@@shmehfleh3115 While you are correct that four diodes are required, three-pin SMD components contain two diodes each. Two of these give you your four diodes, and that's exactly what we find on the more well-designed LED retrofit parts.
The sealight that you tore apart, the little chip is very likely a constant current ic. It will make any input voltage (within the designed range) a set current for the LEDs and the resistor seen will set that current. Too much current can kill LEDs. Cheap sets will just use only a resistor which can't provide a stable current in a car circuit (usually between 8-14V depending on what's running, etcetera).
If you have a constant current IC then you do not need the current limiting resistor.
It's a 6A4 diode and a 130-ohm resistor. You don't need sophisticated current-limiting ICs in an application like that.
If someone could just make a warm white led that's just barely brighter than incandescent...but lasts .... Wooot $$$$
Yes!! That’s what I’m saying too!!
Here, here. And dimmable.
Honestly, i would like to see you test the actual heat of them. How hot they get. Maybe one of each in the license plate lights testing with a temp gun how warm they get.
Please review Sylvania's leds iv been useing there led 194 bulbs for a good year now and not a single one has failed and half of them are in a constant on situation
If everything else is equal, (current draw, light output, build quality, etc.) the bulb with more LED chips in it will usually last longer. LEDs are not self-regulating and will consume as much current as you give them, until they finally die. The closer you run them to that failure point, the shorter their lifespans will be. In this case, you have one bulb with two LEDs doing the same work as another bulb with 14 LEDs. Assuming their light output is the same, those two LEDs are doing a hell of a lot more work.
@1ROAD How about try T10 led bulbs from GTR Lighting? Those are better lighting options. And also Xenon Depot C-series bulbs.
If I were to buy a lightbulb, I’d choose one with more LED chips. If you’re inputting two watts of power into one chip with 50% efficiency, one watt will be lost to heat. If you disperse the two watts input across 14 chips at 50% efficiency, one watt will be lost to heat. The difference is that the 1 watt of loss will be distributed evenly across all of the chips. Each individual chip will be cooler, and the bulb will last longer. If you don’t understand a design, Google it.
What i hate with these chinese led replacements is that they produce way more light then the original incondecent. You end up looking like an xmax tree and not like a car
The way for light manufacturers to apply planned obsolescence, is to drive the LEDs to high power output decreasing longevity in addition to the under engineered power supplies of LED bulbs. in other words, product lasts longer if individual LEDs are driven at low output/current by having more LEDs for the same brightness.
Why don't you try LEDs from Osram and Philips for your always ON lights? They will surely work well for longer.
BTW how is performance of the ones from Sylvania that you installed around 2 years ago?
You can power both for 10mins, use a thermals images camera to take a look see how hot it gets.
Take off the transparent cap, temperature will be even cooler.
i personally prefer the filament LED 194 they seem to last a lot longer. they are also dimmable they output warm white that looks like the original but whit more lumens and they dont have a driver that will make it flash further down the line.
The dome shaped version, despite not having a heat sink, is technically better. It has current regulation, with resistors, while the 14 SMD LED light uses a heat sink for heat dissipation and resistors that limit the current to the SMDs. Technically, the ideal LED bulb would have a heat sink AND a current regulator, along with less, but more efficient lumens per watt LEDs.
Auxito for the WIN!😂
A single led driven with the 12-15v your car gives it will create a lot more heat than the 14 led light.. reason being is a single led has a range of 2-4v to drive it. So usually they make them with multiple leds built into a single chip.. looking like only one led but actually being up to 8 in a single blob... plus that extra power has to go somewhere so they will have resistors in series to dissipate that voltage which turns into heat..
It would seem to me that when an LED bulb is pushed into plug and then the plug is put into the light fixture that the heat dissipation built into the bulb, no matter how it is built, would matter much, because all of the heat is still going to be trapped inside the light fixture.
Where you been Jimmy its been ages since you've done a video.
I have found that the LEDs themselves are not the problem but the power supplies driving them die.
LED way brighter. They can over heat and burn out fact of upgrade lol it's the dismantling of a dash if you want to put it for dash bulbs that takes a long time
how do you know it uses less energy if you didn't take current measurements from any of them?
Most powerful and unique led in a light output generate more heat, also they are more expensive like Cree CXB almost costing 25 dollars a chip 😅 so more cheaps generate less heat, and its cheaper to arrange a bunch of them to generate the same amount of light output
I've found that leds from well known brands such as Philips and Sylvania are much more reliable than the lesser known brands.
Seems like a pretty tight fit, Ah there we go, it slid in but it was a really tight fit. Said this many many many many times. Story of my life, more often than not when life's screwing me. Lmfao
I see only resistor - bad stuff in long term, less with drivers may cause problems with electronics on your car.
'I don't know the science behind all this, guys'....
No, that is painfully obvious....
Also with heat, the color will change.
your theory with the heat is corret, and they are being design like that on perpose, they want people to keep buying new bulbs every now and then.
There are very effiecent leds on the market but none of them make it to the headlight manufacturing just cause they want them to keep failing
They make these things called IR thermometers, you point and temp shows up, wire them all and film. To bright? put a darkening glass to dim
Not his bet work
Try a company named Diod Dynamics next time
I would be worried about the leds getting hot enough to melt the light cover
Take most of the home use led replacement bulbs and inside you will find multiple leds in an array. I have some of these cheap bulbs that have been on 24/7 for over 3 yrs and going strong, so your concept of longevity is wrong. The other fact is that if the array is wired in parallel, you can burn out any one led and keep going, also the heat is spread out in the array, and as stated ,current=heat and if both bulbs draw equal current, then both bulbs produce the same amt. of heat
candescent bult. LED are incandescent
I'm surprised you say "I like the yellow flame color" I cannot stand yellow (soft light}! Especially in my work area Garage for ex.
That was helpful thanks. I had a eye Doctor tell me why Xenon and LED lights are so much better in todays headlights in most cars. Xenon/LED’s produce a blue white light, while Halogen lights are Yellow. The human eye responds better to the Blue/White light so you can actually see better at night. notice how the painted lines show up better in rainy conditions. It’s because the human eye sees the blue/white light better than the yellow light output of Halogen lights on most car headlight systems. See, you learned something from a dumb car salesman! 😉
If you to do this video on the.led light,s for riding mowers
I put Sylvania Zevo LEDs in my mower the year I got it, puts out better lighting IMO. I tried it with the incandescent bulbs it came with, but figured I'd try the LEDs out. I'm happy with it.
@@charliekeene2003 thanks for the info on this matter of LED lights for the riding mower
Mister you can pin a comment of yours here in your videos every 6 months to let us know if they worked or not.
Remember, you can't put LED lights for your engine light indicator and your ABS light indicator.
On the dome light, I experienced the very situation where I switched out the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs.
I'd been in my truck the evening before and left the dome light on, only realizing it the next morning when it was still a bit dark out. I could see the light was on as I walked up and my heart sank thinking I'd need to find a way to jump-start the battery. To my relief it started as off there was no issue at all with the charge despite the dome light being on for many hours. I have little doubt had it not been LED that I'd had an unstartable vehicle or it would have barely cranked over.
As for heat, I'd wager it is all down to the current draw. Without taking one of those apart myself it might be that the small bulb is overdriven to get the light output OR that its lumens to current are very efficient and a big heatsink is unnecessary. It also looks like there is a rectifier bridge in there and possibly a voltage regulator. The base from how it cuts and its colour may be styrene which will soften in the 350℉ plus range so melting with 14vdc is unlikely (not impossible, but unlikely)
On my current vehicle, I've replaced almost every bulb with LEDs even the headlights since I like the light output and their low current draw. I have had them fail, pretty much the super cheap pseudo-branded ones. The ones with established names have not failed on me.
I miss the color and intensity of incandescent.
Amazon lights always flicker now I got sylvania and now it’s gone
The comment should be good-n-tight
Use LED without resistor or Non-Canbus LED since your vehicle don't need it. That type of LED don't get hot.
Stupid LED illuminates very poorly when there's sunlight.
i don't believe LED bulbs will consume less power. Most of them are made in such way to use as much as incadescent bulb so that your Body Computer doesn't think your bulb is faulty (the so called CANbus compatible, which has nothing to do with CANbus actually, but that's a topic for another day)
No, they actually do consume a lot less. The cars that have interior Canbus will give you a warning or the LEDs will constantly flicker.
A LOT of cars don’t have interior canbus so there’s no worry
@@Johnnygga that's not how it works, let me explain:
all Body Computers built in the last two decades has some mechanism for detecting faulty bulbs. However the "faultiness" is measured against the specs of the OEM bulb. If the OEM bulb was halogen, a pure LED bulb for the same light output will consume much less, therefore the Body Computer will throw an error and try constantly to check the bulb. Sometimes this means flashing it which causes the flicker on some vehicles. The only way to trick the system is simply not to try, adding some wasteful resistors on the LED bulbs to consume the same power as the equivalent halogen one, or increase the light output, which cannot always be done, unless you want to blind other drivers. The former way is the one used by so called "CANBus compatible" bulbs which will ALWAYS waste electricity, indipendently of the absorbed power measuring system. "CANBus compatible" is a mispelling on its own, the absorbed power measuring system has nothing to do with the CANBus which is the connection between all the various body computers and ECU. The CANBus compatible bulbs do not just waste electricity for the sake of it, they can be actually detrimental as the resistor and the connector get hotter than with a standard halogen bulb which radiates heat into the whole housing instead of conducting it. If you want to convert an old vehicle to LEDs I suggest going for CANBus incompatible bulbs or removing the resistors, it's extremely easy on most ones.
@@gabrielenitti3243 Oh, you’re talking about exterior lighting. I was talking about interior LEDs lol like the dome light, map light, etc. 😂
You can never shoehorn an LED or HID in a halogen housing anyways when talking about exterior low or high beam lighting. Projector or reflector it won’t work due to physics. You’ll blind everyone. No matter how “good” the beam pattern looks.
It’s the bane of my existence these days seeing so many Amazon special LEDs shoved into halogen houses ugh
You are 100 percent correct, even though every commentor on here says you are not. When using LED bulbs they hyperflash for two reasons, one is that the LED uses less current than the incandescent bulb making the car think the bulb is out which is why a lot of them come with resistors to avoid that error on the dash, two the LED bulb overheats because it's trying to draw more current to keep up hence causing hyper flashing the resistors they put in some of these are trash as well. The key to a successful LED bulb is heat dissipation and a good resistor to trick the vehicle into thinking it's drawing the same current as the original bulb.
You would flunk a boy scout knife merit badge.
Everyone’s a critic. 🤷♂️
Its funny that you know that the heat problem is actually the real problem - And act like by saying that is my theory - Like you never researched for hours before making this video -
A car guy who knows his car inside out - and has kept it for years...forgetting to turn off the those lights? Which he knows have a tendency to be turned on accidently?
Hmmmm guys will LEDS help me with this? Cause for years whenever the car doesnt start in the morning the next day i realize that oh that battery is drained...then after a week my wife tells me that maybe those lights in the back are switched on - then after hours of arguing, explaining to her that look the lights are not on! My kid tells me - Dad they are switched on but due to the battery being drained they appear to be off
Guys will leds help me with this? Please advice
I agrey with u
You started off by saying the coast a dollar each and then you said your sacrificing two dollars in the name of science and in the end you mentioned that you bought them from amazon and they aren’t sponsored as if that they weren’t for your track and you’re not having any income from youtube
Leave it on, next morning car still starts now....
Never been a fan of LED's. The color doesn't look right. And unlike LED's built into devices they seem to fail all the time.
194? you mean 501!
Those “electronics “ inside on the little circuit board are capacitive drivers that actually power the leds. Those are the things that fail most of the time not the actual leds. That is the part that produces the heat not the leds.
Algorithm comment
Your heat dissipation theory is totally wrong, the fewer LED's; the hotter. For simplicity's sake I'm going to use current that would kill an LED without a resistor.
If you have 2 LED's and 2 Amps of current to supply them, that's 1 Amp per LED. The 2 LED bulb here is being driven HARD at that point to make it's light, the 14 LED bulb uses about (with rounding) .143 Amps per bulb, 143 miliamps.
The 2 LED bulb will generate more heat and eat itself quicker than the 14 LED bulb for that reason alone.
Supply current means nothing if the device doesn't use it all. Supply source being equal, resistance would determine heat.