My man, why did you stop uploading these beautiful, hugely informative and thoroughly explained videos? You're teaching so much and the comments are the proof, great work, hope you bless us with more content, you've earned my subscribe
Thank you, thank you, thank you. My band saw has just bit the dust and it may be some time before I can afford to replace it, and the time and labor you just saved me is truly appreciated. Tips like this are fantastic. It is so simple, you wonder why someone else had to point it out to you. But I guess even the smartest man alive can't think of everything. Thanks again for sharing that with us.
Two thumbs up, Brian. Some comments below indicate your detail in explaining is extreme. However, for your average hobby woodturner, you are spot on in video production, explaining the physics of cutting with different tools and blank orientation, clarity, etc. Please don't change a thing in your wonderful videos. Salute from east coast, Canada! Thank you!
SHALOM and Hi MR Brian.I've been doing boxes for the last 30 years,BUT only on a metal Lathe ,British 50's.I am now a pensioner,+ a few. I have decided to change it into a wood lathe; A new box of tricks.New tools all different cuts.New teacher. AND SO to you , I've always say..Bring on the teachers and thank you have a good day.JIM
I really appreciate the multiple angles you show with your cameras. So often turners don't position their cameras so you can tell what angle the tool is sitting on the too rest.
brian I don't have a large bandsaw and im getting into cutting green wood like this for bowls and you have helped me so much n understanding what to do,,,thanks again
Thanks! Very helpful! Your teaching style is how I learn this type of skill. Luckily, there are lots of other people who teach differently for those who learn differently on the internet.
This is a fantastic video... your explanation of the angle of approach is fantastic as well as the camera angles that you provide. I am very new to woodworking and turning. I have found the learning curve to be very steep but also very rewarding. Videos like this one are amazing and I'm very grateful for the work you put into making it! I don't have a working bandsaw right now so I was very intrigued, unfortunately my lathe starts spinning around 800 rpm... so I'm not too sure I'm going to try this method until I gain more confidence and skill in my abilities.. but really wanted to thank you for a fantastic video.
I didn't have a bandsaw for a number of years -- i used to rough the corners off with the chainsaw so it was closer to being round (mostly octaganal).....once I got my bandsaw, i found that spending 5 mins at the bandsaw, saves me 20-30 mins of roughing at the lathe......since my lathe is only midsize, having the saw means I can do larger bowls that start approaching the 12" max the lathe can do....before that most of my bowls were only in the 8-10 range at best.....
Brian -- Thanks for the informative video. I wish I'd had that pivot cut in my arsenal when I roughed out my first half-log blank. Trying to turn it round it out with a push cut almost cost me some fillings! Talk about a brutal cut. Rather than using a screw-chuck or a face plate to mount the blank on the lathe, I suggest mounting the blank between centers. This allows you to find the balance point on the blank (which lets you turn at a higher speed). More importantly, it allows you more creative freedom. With a screw-chuck or face plate, you're stuck turning the bowl on that axis. When you start between centers, you can shift the axis to better balance the grain or to take advantage of (or avoid) some other feature in the wood. YMMV.
Two other techniques are to cut the blank into an octagon as you have done in another of your videos, Brian. Also, a lesser used technique is to place the full log between centers then shape the log into a ball. Finally, rotate the ball 180 degrees before cutting in half with a chainsaw while on the lathe. This one works especially well. you just have to be careful. It's best to start with a small diameter log of about 9 inches. i believe it is David Ellsworth who uses this technique, but I'm not certain. I have done it myself, and it does work well. The trick is to get the pith oriented perpendicular to the bed ways before cutting with the chainsaw...electric chainsaw is best for this. As a side note, we all seem to be adapting the techniques of the professional/production turners. In my opinion, this is a mistake as it causes us to be in a hurry. Side ground bowl gouges are a good example of this. The object of that gouge is to remove material quickly. That works great for the production turner. But, this is supposed to be an enjoyable hobby. What's the hurry?
When I first started doing bowls I only had a little 6" band saw so the most I could ever do was knock off a little of the corners. So I had to develop my own way of dealing with half rounds like that. Not much different. Just starting at the 45 and slowly working toward the head stock. Lately I've switched to doing the roughing left handed. It keeps me out of the line of fire for the chips, water and potential failures. Same basic cut right hand on the rest, handle on left hip and pivot right.
+Robert Schuster I should try the left handed roughing for the reason you pointed out. It keeps me further out of the line of fire. I used to think that Glenn Lucas was left handed, but I learned at his demo here at a local club that he is right handed but roughs left handed.
Brian, great video. You explanations are spot on and very informative especially for the new/inexperienced turner. I've been watching them all to see what a good UA-cam turner should really be doing. I do wonder about the distance between your tool rest and the blank you were turning. I realize you had a long handled gouge and the rule of thumb is 1:5 which means for every inch over the tool rest you should have 5 inches on the other side. You started the blank a little far away in my opinion. And every time you check your progress you should reevaluate the tool rest distance and of course spin the blank by hand to make sure nothing's going to hit. Some of your videos mention a Presidents challenge so I assume you belong to a local turning club. I would emphasize that to your viewers as there is an additional wealth of knowledge there. Keep up the great work!!!
Great video with great detail and camera angles. I loved watching you, but it will be a while before I think I'm good enough to try this. I do have a bandsaw ...
I acually found out yesterday that with my electric handplane i can extremely quickly take off the corners and the "corners of the corners" and take off most of the material very very quickly like that. saves a ton of time too and might even be quicker than with a medium bandsaw and setting everything up.
The amount of fatigue avoided by using a bandsaw seems worth the investment. Your hands have value which I would think would be well above the cost of a used quality bandsaw.
I am a new turner. Had a large walnut bowl blank on a plate the other night. It was out of balance and bouncing a bit. Without thinking I grabbed a spindle roughing gouge instead of my bowl gouge. About 15 seconds is all it took to catch the end grain. Snapped the tool rest off and bent the roughing gouge over. The local machine shop made me a new tool rest but I'm out a Robert Sorby spindle roughing gouge. It could have been worse. Scared the heck out of me!
This is why Brian's explanations are so important. You may not have seen his other video on why not to use the SPINDLE roughing gouge for just that reason.
Brian, thanks for the excellent demonstration. Could you share info on the grind you have on that bowl gouge? Looks like it might be different than a gouge used for the finer cuts as the bowl nears its destination.
+JSEquineVideos I have been thinking about doing a video on bowl gouge grinds. For about 90% of bowl making, I use a 40/40 grind, meaning that both the bevel and the sweep are 40 degrees. When the 40/40 can no longer maintain bevel contact at the bottom of the bowl (because the tool hits the rim of the bowl) I switch to a bowl gouge with a 60 degree bevel. The one I used in this video is still a 40/40 grind, but I sweep back the left wing some, which I find helpful when rouging bowls.
thats all well and good if you think everyone has a lathe the size of yours, its almost if possible on a hobby small lathe because it would shake the hobby lathe off the bench
I have a Jet 1221 and i easily screw chuck up a piece this size (even oak) and turn it into a bowl same as this video. And my lathe isn't even bolted to anything but sits on a table. Now the 1221 is a pretty heavy little lathe so that helps, and I use a sharp tool, but it's not so difficult.
If your're talking about a SPINDLE roughing gouge you need to watch Brian's other video on why that's not an appropriate tool for anything other what spindle work. And spindle work is where the grain structure of the wood is only going parallel with the bed of the lathe.
I do have a Titan, and I like it, but I have heard others complain about the fact that there is no way to use a wrench (including the standard Nova chuck wrench) to remove the chuck from the spindle. Most Teknatool chucks require an insert to adapt it to the specific spindle thread, and that insert has a hex shape that allows the chuck to be removed with a wrench, but the Titan only comes in 1-1/4, 8 tpi and has no hex shape. To get the Titan off, I usually open the jaws to have a 1/4" gap, and stick the 'T' hex wrench that comes with it to lever it off. I find this a minor frustration, but I know one turner returned his because of this issue.
hmm thank you for the information, I don't think that would be too big of an issue for me, I hate reaching for a wrench anyway. For the price it cant really be beat when compared to the other sized ones
The real time saver to making the log round on the bandsaw, is not the time you spend rounding it at the lathe.... It's the time you won't spend at the grindet. 😑
No bandsaw ? No problem ! Use a handsaw : that will make your cardio for the day !… Sorry but I really mean it ! In other words, you scare me !!!… Thanks for posting anyway !!!…
Oh, good grief. We don't need a long-winded preface, nor do we need to know how your learned something or whatever. Get on with it. You stretched my patience to the breaking point after only five minutes.
You have got to quit over explaining yourself because you don’t get to turning until like 8:30 which I want to see people turning not saying what you going to do every time
No, his explanation is spot on and really important. Too many UA-cam demonstrators just show what they do and it gets viewers to try it as well but with no explanation they get into trouble. I'm a mentor for my local wood turning club and I get questions everyday about what someone has seen and how they did it. Keep up the great explanations Brian.
My man, why did you stop uploading these beautiful, hugely informative and thoroughly explained videos? You're teaching so much and the comments are the proof, great work, hope you bless us with more content, you've earned my subscribe
Thank you, thank you, thank you. My band saw has just bit the dust and it may be some time before I can afford to replace it, and the time and labor you just saved me is truly appreciated. Tips like this are fantastic. It is so simple, you wonder why someone else had to point it out to you. But I guess even the smartest man alive can't think of everything. Thanks again for sharing that with us.
Two thumbs up, Brian. Some comments below indicate your detail in explaining is extreme. However, for your average hobby woodturner, you are spot on in video production, explaining the physics of cutting with different tools and blank orientation, clarity, etc. Please don't change a thing in your wonderful videos. Salute from east coast, Canada! Thank you!
Thanks so much Brian. Watching your instructional series has saved me months of trial and error learning. Cheers, Gord
You've got so many strings to your bow Brian:- techniques, video production, clear voice and instructions, and a day job as well!
SHALOM and Hi MR Brian.I've been doing boxes for the last 30 years,BUT only
on a metal Lathe ,British 50's.I am now a pensioner,+ a few. I have decided to change it
into a wood lathe; A new box of tricks.New tools all different cuts.New teacher.
AND SO to you , I've always say..Bring on the teachers and thank you have a good day.JIM
This is exactly what I wanted to try turning as a beginner. I’m an old tree guy always dealing with logs thanks Brian.
I really appreciate the multiple angles you show with your cameras. So often turners don't position their cameras so you can tell what angle the tool is sitting on the too rest.
U make that cut look so easy Brian 👏👏
brian I don't have a large bandsaw and im getting into cutting green wood like this for bowls and you have helped me so much n understanding what to do,,,thanks again
You are such a fabulous teacher Brian! Thanks! I thought to myself "has a powermatic 3530 but no bandsaw? Lol" and "I am glad I have a 17" bandsaw"
What impressed me (as a rank amateur) is how a sharp and well designed tool aids his process----good job Brian. Thanks for sharing
Thanks! Very helpful! Your teaching style is how I learn this type of skill. Luckily, there are lots of other people who teach differently for those who learn differently on the internet.
Great video, Brian. You do an excellent job on all your videos explaining techniques.
This is a fantastic video... your explanation of the angle of approach is fantastic as well as the camera angles that you provide. I am very new to woodworking and turning. I have found the learning curve to be very steep but also very rewarding. Videos like this one are amazing and I'm very grateful for the work you put into making it! I don't have a working bandsaw right now so I was very intrigued, unfortunately my lathe starts spinning around 800 rpm... so I'm not too sure I'm going to try this method until I gain more confidence and skill in my abilities.. but really wanted to thank you for a fantastic video.
I didn't have a bandsaw for a number of years -- i used to rough the corners off with the chainsaw so it was closer to being round (mostly octaganal).....once I got my bandsaw, i found that spending 5 mins at the bandsaw, saves me 20-30 mins of roughing at the lathe......since my lathe is only midsize, having the saw means I can do larger bowls that start approaching the 12" max the lathe can do....before that most of my bowls were only in the 8-10 range at best.....
Thank you for making me aware of this technique.
Fantastic! you keep making me want to make my lathe. some day!
Thanks for taking the time to teach me something new. This will be helpful.
Brian -- Thanks for the informative video. I wish I'd had that pivot cut in my arsenal when I roughed out my first half-log blank. Trying to turn it round it out with a push cut almost cost me some fillings! Talk about a brutal cut.
Rather than using a screw-chuck or a face plate to mount the blank on the lathe, I suggest mounting the blank between centers. This allows you to find the balance point on the blank (which lets you turn at a higher speed). More importantly, it allows you more creative freedom. With a screw-chuck or face plate, you're stuck turning the bowl on that axis. When you start between centers, you can shift the axis to better balance the grain or to take advantage of (or avoid) some other feature in the wood. YMMV.
Great video. Really explained a lot of detail and why you did certain things. Thank you and keep it up!
Two other techniques are to cut the blank into an octagon as you have done in another of your videos, Brian. Also, a lesser used technique is to place the full log between centers then shape the log into a ball. Finally, rotate the ball 180 degrees before cutting in half with a chainsaw while on the lathe. This one works especially well. you just have to be careful. It's best to start with a small diameter log of about 9 inches. i believe it is David Ellsworth who uses this technique, but I'm not certain. I have done it myself, and it does work well. The trick is to get the pith oriented perpendicular to the bed ways before cutting with the chainsaw...electric chainsaw is best for this.
As a side note, we all seem to be adapting the techniques of the professional/production turners. In my opinion, this is a mistake as it causes us to be in a hurry. Side ground bowl gouges are a good example of this. The object of that gouge is to remove material quickly. That works great for the production turner. But, this is supposed to be an enjoyable hobby. What's the hurry?
Great video.
Though I'm new at turning, I've used my table saw with a simple right angle jig to cut off the corners.
Brian you have Skills, Great Vid thanks for sharing, Graham.
Liking your style of instruction. Very clear. New sub.
thanks, good tips and also great you demo the attitude of the gouge.
When I first started doing bowls I only had a little 6" band saw so the most I could ever do was knock off a little of the corners. So I had to develop my own way of dealing with half rounds like that. Not much different. Just starting at the 45 and slowly working toward the head stock. Lately I've switched to doing the roughing left handed. It keeps me out of the line of fire for the chips, water and potential failures. Same basic cut right hand on the rest, handle on left hip and pivot right.
+Robert Schuster I should try the left handed roughing for the reason you pointed out. It keeps me further out of the line of fire. I used to think that Glenn Lucas was left handed, but I learned at his demo here at a local club that he is right handed but roughs left handed.
I have used this cut and it works. Only scared myself once! lol!!!
Nice video.
I love woodturning videos, focused only, on cuts.
And your video is also well done.
Keep going.
pm
Brian, great video. You explanations are spot on and very informative especially for the new/inexperienced turner. I've been watching them all to see what a good UA-cam turner should really be doing. I do wonder about the distance between your tool rest and the blank you were turning. I realize you had a long handled gouge and the rule of thumb is 1:5 which means for every inch over the tool rest you should have 5 inches on the other side. You started the blank a little far away in my opinion. And every time you check your progress you should reevaluate the tool rest distance and of course spin the blank by hand to make sure nothing's going to hit. Some of your videos mention a Presidents challenge so I assume you belong to a local turning club. I would emphasize that to your viewers as there is an additional wealth of knowledge there. Keep up the great work!!!
Great video with great detail and camera angles. I loved watching you, but it will be a while before I think I'm good enough to try this. I do have a bandsaw ...
I acually found out yesterday that with my electric handplane i can extremely quickly take off the corners and the "corners of the corners" and take off most of the material very very quickly like that. saves a ton of time too and might even be quicker than with a medium bandsaw and setting everything up.
Very useful video Brian.
Once again thanks Brian I love it. Top marks mate.
The amount of fatigue avoided by using a bandsaw seems worth the investment. Your hands have value which I would think would be well above the cost of a used quality bandsaw.
helpful tips. i was always catching endgrain
I am a new turner.
Had a large walnut bowl blank on a plate the other night. It was out of balance and bouncing a bit. Without thinking I grabbed a spindle roughing gouge instead of my bowl gouge.
About 15 seconds is all it took to catch the end grain.
Snapped the tool rest off and bent the roughing gouge over. The local machine shop made me a new tool rest but I'm out a Robert Sorby spindle roughing gouge. It could have been worse.
Scared the heck out of me!
This is why Brian's explanations are so important. You may not have seen his other video on why not to use the SPINDLE roughing gouge for just that reason.
Brian, Thanks for sharing.
Jim
Great video- very helpful.
Good lesson Brian. Thanks you
What is on the end of your tail stock, does not look like a live center. Awesome video.
He Starts Cutting at 9:08 You're Welcome! Lol Nice video man.
Brian, thanks for the excellent demonstration. Could you share info on the grind you have on that bowl gouge? Looks like it might be different than a gouge used for the finer cuts as the bowl nears its destination.
+JSEquineVideos I have been thinking about doing a video on bowl gouge grinds. For about 90% of bowl making, I use a 40/40 grind, meaning that both the bevel and the sweep are 40 degrees. When the 40/40 can no longer maintain bevel contact at the bottom of the bowl (because the tool hits the rim of the bowl) I switch to a bowl gouge with a 60 degree bevel. The one I used in this video is still a 40/40 grind, but I sweep back the left wing some, which I find helpful when rouging bowls.
I’m just wondering but what is the wettest wood you’ve ever turned in your life
BRILLIANT!!! Thanks its a great idea.
Good grief! I wore my face shield and sat back form my monitor. I expected that sucker to come through the screen. You da man tho.
i find i take the excess away first because leaving it on eats into the capacity of the lathe.
there is really no setup for knocking the corners off on the band saw or with the chain saw. it takes less than a minute and saves ten.
What size gouge? Bowl not a spindle gouge?
What size bowl gouge and how long is your handle?
How do you dry these projects? Thank you for sharing your presentations. 👍🇦🇺🔭
I'll try this
Can't you use a jigsaw with a long blade?
thats all well and good if you think everyone has a lathe the size of yours, its almost if possible on a hobby small lathe because it would shake the hobby lathe off the bench
I have a Jet 1221 and i easily screw chuck up a piece this size (even oak) and turn it into a bowl same as this video. And my lathe isn't even bolted to anything but sits on a table. Now the 1221 is a pretty heavy little lathe so that helps, and I use a sharp tool, but it's not so difficult.
What would you recommend if my lathe is not as large as yours? Should I cut off the corners or what?
+Charlie Hamilton Cutting the corners off, with chainsaw or a handsaw, is definitely an option
This is only great if you have a large throw on your lathe, not much use if you only have a hobby lathe
THANK YOU, BRIAN. WHAT KIND WOOD WAS THIS?
+sam karimzad Freshly cut apple.
Good video. Like!
Why wouldn’t you use roughing gouge to rough the outside shape
If your're talking about a SPINDLE roughing gouge you need to watch Brian's other video on why that's not an appropriate tool for anything other what spindle work. And spindle work is where the grain structure of the wood is only going parallel with the bed of the lathe.
I use a hatchet to round up first.
Do you have a nova titan chuck? How do you like it?
I do have a Titan, and I like it, but I have heard others complain about the fact that there is no way to use a wrench (including the standard Nova chuck wrench) to remove the chuck from the spindle. Most Teknatool chucks require an insert to adapt it to the specific spindle thread, and that insert has a hex shape that allows the chuck to be removed with a wrench, but the Titan only comes in 1-1/4, 8 tpi and has no hex shape. To get the Titan off, I usually open the jaws to have a 1/4" gap, and stick the 'T' hex wrench that comes with it to lever it off. I find this a minor frustration, but I know one turner returned his because of this issue.
hmm thank you for the information, I don't think that would be too big of an issue for me, I hate reaching for a wrench anyway. For the price it cant really be beat when compared to the other sized ones
Do you give lessons.
+Edward Austin Perhaps when I retire; but right now I cannot dedicate enough time to it.
The real time saver to making the log round on the bandsaw, is not the time you spend rounding it at the lathe....
It's the time you won't spend at the grindet. 😑
Use a Chainsaw and spare your gouge and shoulder.
Это видео о том как работать нельзя !!!!!
Must every UA-cam video open with an extraneous "so?" Geez.
No bandsaw ? No problem ! Use a handsaw : that will make your cardio for the day !…
Sorry but I really mean it !
In other words, you scare me !!!…
Thanks for posting anyway !!!…
what in the heck kind of universe will i have a thousand dollar lathe but not a 500 dollar band saw.
Oh, good grief. We don't need a long-winded preface, nor do we need to know how your learned something or whatever. Get on with it. You stretched my patience to the breaking point after only five minutes.
All that to make nothing worth it. The man is peacocking.
.
Too much repetition in the instruction = too much talking = zzzzzzzzzzzz
Pay attention and you'll learn something!!
You have got to quit over explaining yourself because you don’t get to turning until like 8:30 which I want to see people turning not saying what you going to do every time
No, his explanation is spot on and really important. Too many UA-cam demonstrators just show what they do and it gets viewers to try it as well but with no explanation they get into trouble. I'm a mentor for my local wood turning club and I get questions everyday about what someone has seen and how they did it. Keep up the great explanations Brian.
Tooooo much talking