Great videos Brian! I have viewed most of the wood turning instructions from so-called experts and have found nothing as technically accurate nor as visually detailed as yours. You have obviously put a lot of effort and grey matter into understanding why a tool behaves a certain way when it hits rotating wood. This has enabled me to totally clean up my results and just about eliminate catches when I work "at the lathe". Thanks so much ! Mark.
Hi Brian. This really is a brilliant tutorial. Thank you so much for taking time to make it and providing clear a description of the methods used. Your peeling cut video enabled me to learn how to successfully undertake that cut, and this video will certainly inspire me to try to master the point cut. Thanks for sharing and helping others learn (and turn safely). Cheers Andrew P.S. Why anyone would give this a 'thumbs down' is beyond belief.
Eric Loftstrom has a tremendously informative class on skew skills. I'm learning to use this amazingly useful tool. Thanks for your clear lessons on this channel.
*_I finally got it!_* Your demo of where the bevel contacts (at 3:55) was a real "the light bulb went on" moment for me. I have gotten "ok" with the peeling and planing cuts but could not get the point cut. Just thinking about making a point cut caused my skew to fly across the room. After watching your video, I went to the lathe and put 4 beautiful V grooves in a scrap piece of wood. I almost broke down and cried. Ok, not really... but it was an exciting moment for me. I guess I'll have to keep my skew sharp and buy a dedicated paint can opener now.
Perfect! I've been trying this cut and never understood it until now. I have been trying to rub the bevel too high up and got catches every time and just gave up on it. Thanks for your time on this.
Excellent series. With only turning for 6 weeks and I had a bad catch with a skew which broke the tool rest, this has helped a lot. My only concern is that I only have the oval skew so will still be limited to most of what has been covered rather than all.
An excellent tutorial Brian, very well explained and demonstrated. I tend to agree with your thoughts about Three being the type of cuts with the Skew, and I hasten to add that my skill set is no where near your level :) Take care Mike
Love your channel. Very informative. I use my skew to hollow out bowls with a point cut keeping the wide face on the tool rest. I've been told not to do this but it works for me since I don't have a bowl gouge yet. Why do people tell me not to use the skew for hollowing out bowls when it works so well?
Thank you for yet another clear and informative technique video -- I always look forward these of your videos in particular. You've teased at it before, but are you going to do a video on the Bedan (and Bedan-ish) tools? That's one I'd really like to see. Clyde
+Clyde Ulmer I will bump up the Bedan style parting tools higher on the todo list. I had to cover the point cut with the skew first, because one of the primary cuts I do with those Bedan parting tools is exactly the same as a point cut. For a regular (French Style) Bedan I will have to build a little more courage to present it. LOL
Hey Brian...great vids...they've helped me big time. The skew is a scary tool but I've started using it on small projects like pens using the peeling/planing cuts you've shown. Im still having problems with the point cut and noticed that on your shoulder cut you mentioned about keeping the gap to avoid catches. Is the principle the same for cutting 'v' cuts? Im also having too many catches when cutting roundover edges on the end of the wood...do any of your videos cover why that might happen? Cheers Brian.
Yes, you still need the gap on the V cut. A V cut and a shoulder cut are the same, except for having to make the crud initial cut to get the V started. In "Skew Grinds" I mentioned and showed briefly a tip for cutting beads/roundovers by thinking of the cutting edge and the side of the skew as an arrow, and cutting in that direction. The issue I have discovered with cutting beads/roundovers is that you can get into a situation where the wood being cut is in the same location that the bevel wants to be supported, so you end up cutting away the wood that you are trying to ride the bevel on. The "arrow" tip ensures that the bevel is being supported on wood behind the location where the wood is being cut. A little hard to explain in words. I was actually contemplating if this issue warranted its own video.
Excellent tutorial Brian. Question: To keep the point engaged, but leave the small gap between the work and the rest of the skew edge, are you tilting the skew slightly clockwise, and resting it on right side of the skew base, or are you swinging the skew laterally to the right?
Excellent series for beginning turners. Your approach to explaining what makes things happen allows me to analyze my mistakes and improve on the next attempt. Are you an engineer?
He could hardly have explained it better. Thanks Brian.
Like your videos a lot. To the point, well explained, no annoying background music. Thank you.
Camera angles and close shots are so helpful, the details shown. Excellent. Appreciate.
really appreciated this video, the concept of a bead really being a plane cut was super helpful and clicked in for me perfectly
Great videos Brian! I have viewed most of the wood turning instructions from so-called experts and have found nothing as technically accurate nor as visually detailed as yours. You have obviously put a lot of effort and grey matter into understanding why a tool behaves a certain way when it hits rotating wood. This has enabled me to totally clean up my results and just about eliminate catches when I work "at the lathe". Thanks so much ! Mark.
Brian, very well explained. The first time I have understood what happens with a point cut. Deeply appreciated!
I am a novice and have learn more from your videos than anywhere else. Keep up the good work.
Hi Brian. This really is a brilliant tutorial. Thank you so much for taking time to make it and providing clear a description of the methods used. Your peeling cut video enabled me to learn how to successfully undertake that cut, and this video will certainly inspire me to try to master the point cut. Thanks for sharing and helping others learn (and turn safely).
Cheers
Andrew
P.S. Why anyone would give this a 'thumbs down' is beyond belief.
I love your videos. Everything you explain is nicely backed by showing what to do, not to do and why to do it.
Thank you for doing it!
Eric Loftstrom has a tremendously informative class on skew skills. I'm learning to use this amazingly useful tool. Thanks for your clear lessons on this channel.
*_I finally got it!_* Your demo of where the bevel contacts (at 3:55) was a real "the light bulb went on" moment for me. I have gotten "ok" with the peeling and planing cuts but could not get the point cut. Just thinking about making a point cut caused my skew to fly across the room. After watching your video, I went to the lathe and put 4 beautiful V grooves in a scrap piece of wood. I almost broke down and cried. Ok, not really... but it was an exciting moment for me. I guess I'll have to keep my skew sharp and buy a dedicated paint can opener now.
Excellent demonstration. That method for getting a clean tip was great.
Thank you for your teaching. I appreciate your work. I have learned from it
Excellent. The close ups clear up the concepts.
Perfect! I've been trying this cut and never understood it until now. I have been trying to rub the bevel too high up and got catches every time and just gave up on it.
Thanks for your time on this.
Thanks for another great video Brian.
Great show and tell - thanks for taking the time.
Thanks so much for this. What a great series for the beginning turner! Cheers, Gord
Merci pour vos vidéos
Thanks again for those lessons. Much appreciated. Marc
have been lokking forward to a new vid, thanks for the upload
A well-sharpened tool, easily cuts detail.Like!
Excellent series. With only turning for 6 weeks and I had a bad catch with a skew which broke the tool rest, this has helped a lot. My only concern is that I only have the oval skew so will still be limited to most of what has been covered rather than all.
Thank you, Brian, for a great video. Do have a video showing a pull cut with a gouge?
Thanks for the great video, very informative and we'll structured. Cheers!
An excellent tutorial Brian, very well explained and demonstrated. I tend to agree with your thoughts about Three being the type of cuts with the Skew, and I hasten to add that my skill set is no where near your level :)
Take care
Mike
Love your channel. Very informative. I use my skew to hollow out bowls with a point cut keeping the wide face on the tool rest. I've been told not to do this but it works for me since I don't have a bowl gouge yet. Why do people tell me not to use the skew for hollowing out bowls when it works so well?
Thanks for the video Brian!
very good video! thanks for sharing the knowledge!
what is the manufacture of this lon skew it very nice. thanks for the class, my d way alludes me''''
Thank you for yet another clear and informative technique video -- I always look forward these of your videos in particular. You've teased at it before, but are you going to do a video on the Bedan (and Bedan-ish) tools? That's one I'd really like to see. Clyde
+Clyde Ulmer I will bump up the Bedan style parting tools higher on the todo list. I had to cover the point cut with the skew first, because one of the primary cuts I do with those Bedan parting tools is exactly the same as a point cut. For a regular (French Style) Bedan I will have to build a little more courage to present it. LOL
brian great tip.
Hey Brian...great vids...they've helped me big time. The skew is a scary tool but I've started using it on small projects like pens using the peeling/planing cuts you've shown. Im still having problems with the point cut and noticed that on your shoulder cut you mentioned about keeping the gap to avoid catches. Is the principle the same for cutting 'v' cuts? Im also having too many catches when cutting roundover edges on the end of the wood...do any of your videos cover why that might happen? Cheers Brian.
Yes, you still need the gap on the V cut. A V cut and a shoulder cut are the same, except for having to make the crud initial cut to get the V started.
In "Skew Grinds" I mentioned and showed briefly a tip for cutting beads/roundovers by thinking of the cutting edge and the side of the skew as an arrow, and cutting in that direction. The issue I have discovered with cutting beads/roundovers is that you can get into a situation where the wood being cut is in the same location that the bevel wants to be supported, so you end up cutting away the wood that you are trying to ride the bevel on. The "arrow" tip ensures that the bevel is being supported on wood behind the location where the wood is being cut. A little hard to explain in words. I was actually contemplating if this issue warranted its own video.
Great video. Can you come to Tyler Texas to teach? Will you be at SWAT this year?
Excellent tutorial Brian. Question: To keep the point engaged, but leave the small gap between the work and the rest of the skew edge, are you tilting the skew slightly clockwise, and resting it on right side of the skew base, or are you swinging the skew laterally to the right?
Thank you.
Very helpful.
Thanks
thanks 👍
Хорошая операторская работа😊. Не зная английского, можно всё понять
Excellent series for beginning turners. Your approach to explaining what makes things happen allows me to analyze my mistakes and improve on the next attempt. Are you an engineer?
+Andy Mcdonnall Is it that obvious? LOL
Thanks!
Hi Brian from the UK, how long have you been turning? You make it look very easy. 🇬🇧
again, very educational
thanks again.
R.I.P. Herb Green.