Did my valves this weekend and it runs like a brand new engine now. Valves were too tight and it caused the engine to run like complete crap with a very rough idle. Really makes a difference, and is very easy to do. If you've got an 8th gen Civic, be prepared to have a sore lower back when you're done tho! I do one cylinder at a time, intake, then exhaust, torque, check again, on to the next. Come back around once you've done them all and recheck and adjust as needed. I find that as I progress through the cylinders I get more and more precise with the adjustment and the early cylinders need to be nipped up a bit. Valve adjustments and on-time oil changes and a 200k mile R18 will continue to run as if it were fresh from the factory. Excellent little engines! Best tip I can share... crack the locking nuts loose with your ratchet, then disconnect the extension with your socket attacked and gently tighten the nut again, just till it stops. This will make the screw part of the adjustment "firm" and hold where you set it when you go to torque. If you have the locking nut too lose, the smallest bump will throw off your adjustment.
Hey guys great video, just to let you know the latest generation 3.5 litre v6 2024 doesn't require valve adjustments anymore Honda has gone to hydraulic lifters. Also there's a special tool available from Honda for valve adjustments.
If you don't know what you are doing on these Honda V6 J Series engines DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS. If you get this wrong you can severely damage your engine.
The Honda valve adjusting tool is part# 07MAA-PR70120. Cost about $45, and has a dial instead of a long driver handle. Downside is you have to use a separate wrench on the socket-piece to loosen/tighten the jam nut. There were knockoff versions like the Alltrade/Powerbuilt 648822 that I have, but can't seem to find for sale anymore.
I've noticed many older versions of this engine will idle roughly until the engine warms up. The valve lash actually closes up and holds the valve partially open, possibly because the valve seat wears or the valve stretches over time. A valve adjustment clears this problem up and makes the engine run like new. I think Honda actually had a bulletin about this issue.
Few years ago my 2009 crv burnt a valve at 250k because I never adjusted the valves. I make sure to adjust them now. Exhaust valves always get tight but you won't hear them, you will just hear the loose intake valves. Tight and quiet is the silent killer for these.
I tried this adjustment without a lift and found the rear bank to be a PITA! In fact, it was so hard that I had to take it to the dealer. I was oissed considering that i had already changed the timng belt and water pump. I'm sure if I had a hoist, things may have been easier.
I’m a technician at a Honda dealer we recommend them every 105k as well with the timing belt service normally. Also the new Pilot (Ridgelines and Odysseys still have the older engine) with the updated engine in the current gen pilot no longer requires a valve adjustment.
Question for you. I have a 09 mdx mis fire on 3,5,6. I did the spark plugs and the coils for all. The misfire is still present along with “check emission system” and check sh-AWD system”. Unfortunately my Honda dealer has not been helpful. They wanted me to change the timing belt and then check the spark plugs. Which I just did. Is it possible this is balance adjustment? I booked in for an adjustment tomorrow shot in the dark just hoping this will resolve the issue. Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
The Honda special tool for my ‘95 VTEC Prelude has a short knurled head on the screwdriver. Not sure they still make them that way, but that was some 29 years ago.
2005 MDX, 246k miles...multiple cylinder misfires. Mostly one side, but really all cylinders. Bought plugs, coils, PCV and may get an EGR. Hoping it doesn't need a valve lash adjustment.
My 2010 Odyssey EX-L vavles were all bit loose at 235 k km (146k miles) except cylinder 5 exhaust valves which were a bit tight. I've owned the vehicle since new and it was the first time they were done (I didn't do them at the 160k km maintenance minder interval). I guess with Honda's new "when noisy" recommendation they are waiting for vehicles with tight vavles to come in with misfires in the case where they tighten over time.
Thank you for the great video. I have a problem with my b20b3. There ıs no thread left on the screw that you loose to adjust the clearance. What can I do about that?
How can you be certain you’re on the compression stroke during the valve adjustment? Is it good enough to just line up the hash marks? The manual I have just says position to TDC no.1 then move on…
Just go by the labels on the cam shaft. If for whatever reason you don't trust the labels (just go by the labels), you can wiggle the rocker arms and if they move, they're not applying pressure to the valve, and you are good to adjust (only a TDC will both intake and exhaust rockers be free from tension)... but just go by the labels on the cam gear... that's what they're there for.
Great video, however, you missed one very key item in the Alldata Maintenance Minder table. Maintenance Minder Item 4 is for timing belt, spark plugs and valve lash inspection which means the valve lash check/adjustment is still due every 105K with timing belt and spark plugs. The note you mentioned just means that if the valves are noisy they should be done at any of the other intervals, as well. If the interval were "only when noisy" then you'd never find and adjust a tight valve. In my experience, usually, the exhaust valves tighten up and the intakes loosen up.
@@jptrainor No, they didn't. I don't know why everyone thinks this. This is taken right from the 2017 Honda Pilot owner's manual: Maintenance Minder item 4 is "Replace spark plugs, Replace timing belt & inspect water pump, Inspect Valve Clearance." Maintenance Sub Item 4 comes up at right around 105K miles, so inspecting valve clearances is part of that maintenance sub item with the timing belt and spark plug job. At the top of the page it says "Adjust the valves during services A, B, 1, 2, or 3 if they are noisy" which just means to take care of them at any oil change or service visit if they are noisy. They still are supposed to be inspected (and presumably adjusted if found out of spec) at the same time as timing belt/water pump/spark plugs. Having checked many at 105K I've found very few out of spec at 105K but have found plenty out of spec at 150K. By 200K they can still be quiet but it's not uncommon to have unexplained misfires and rough running engine due to tight exhaust valves. I've seen it several times. Regardless, it's part of Maintenance Minder Sub item 4, every 105K, to check/inspect the valve clearances.
@@johnaclark1 *recent* ... They're not going to (indeed, cannot) change the maintenance minder schedule for millions of shipped vehicles. There's plenty of talk, however, of the official Honda recommendation having changed.
Do you guys use your Intake vacuum waveform to check for valve adjustment, not an exact measurement for in/mm but you can see the timing between pressure pulses and you can see if the exhaust valve is out of whack based on how high its pulse is compared to the intake pulse height as the exhaust is typically the one which beats itself into the valve seat making it tight. Of course, your transducer needs to be set up properly and look a bit more wavy than what some techs prefer, cheers.
Hi, great video btw, and helpful commentary along the way. I'm lost and would really appreciate some expertise! My 2005 Accord v6 has been running well until recently on a long drive several misfire codes popped up at once. There was some rough idling and I could feel some misfires on the way home. I changed spark plugs only 500 mi ago; since the codes came all at once, I don't think it's coils either. Is it likely that the valve clearances are the issue? Especially with what you said at 8:20 . I also have three electronic codes that popped up with the misfires, one being 83-1 (ECM/PCM relation failure). I don't know if the computer might be causing the issues or even if they're related. If you can please share an expert opinion, I would appreciate it.
8:51 “Exhaust valves too tight” My problem. When you beat on hondas they dont get loose, they get tighter 🤣🤣🤣. For real though. I personally believe when you bounce a 1980-2020 honda motor off the redline it makes the exhaust valves get tighter.
Same, on my civic, 3 of the exhaust valves was at over 0.015mm (didn't bother checking bigger feelers) while the repair manual said 0.010mm 🤯. That explained why it tapped really loudly before i adjusted it. Even with the 0.015mm it felt loose.
The rear harness stayed in place for mine. I unclipped a few harness clamps to give it some slack, that's all. That's was the service manual procedure. I don't know what this vehicle was but it was obviously totally clear. I've seen quite a few videos and it seems to vary, but most typically the rear harness remains in place but is given slack and then you work around it.
Hi great video. I have a 03 Honda pilot that had the timing belt put on after it broke while driving. The car is running thankfully however I get random misfires now and sometimes car turns off. Could it be the valves loosened up or misadjusted when the timing belt broke? And now I’m having these problems? Thanks in advance for any advice! Great video
My question is if in the manual it says you could use this size this size or this size for The Gap, how do I determine which one to choose.?! I have a 2007 Honda Ridgeline j series engine. I did the valve adjustment for the first time it nearly 200,000 miles, I drove it 5,000 mi it sounded pretty good and now it sounds bad, there is a loud clacking sound on cylinder one and six intake on one end exhaust on six.
Sister bought a 2009 Honda Pilot from a used car lot, Check engine light came on right when she got home. 5 cylinders missfiring, this has to be the reason right??? car drives fine.
Most likely, it's pretty common. If it's over a 100k miles it needs to be done anyway. In my experience it's always wise to check into general maintenance after buying used vehicle yourself. Keep records so you know whats been done and when. If they say something has been done more often the not you'll find out their cousin Jett did it. Or a shop who pays mechanics by the job, not the hour.
I did the twice on my Honda odyssey. Both times values got noisy within 3k miles. Seems like the adjustment screws keep working loose. Would it be a bad idea to clean them up and add a little lock tight to stop them from moving? And yes I get the jam nuts tight!
Try to use gas with higher octane. My 2000 would knock on 87 accelerating up a hill when it was new. Switched to 89 and it stopped. I ran 93 in it for a little more horsepower until recently due to high prices- but still no lower than 89.
hydro lifters don't need to be adjusted, but are more complex and are another point of failure. There's more to it than that tho... two completely different engine designs. The overhead cam design is as simple as it gets, and that's what makes it a great design that's been around over 100 years.
8 months later did you find your fix? For me i knew it was the valves when i herd that one of the symptoms was the tapping, only when it got hot, realized it was fine on cold start, then started tapping when it got hot. Adjusted it myself to find 3 exhaust valves were over %50 too loose.
@3:15 New "J35Y8": No VTEC No valve adjustments required. Timing belt ....... VCM may prove to be a costly repair I am not a Honda tech nor am I professionally trained
Woundering. My 2018 civic hatchback. How should the valves sound like when properly adjusted. I understand there will be some ticking. Also. Should the exhaust vales be opened to 11 or 10. I understand over time the valves intend to tighten. Having the lash open more would be better or stay with 10?
My 2006 Civic (different engine than 2018) were all loose at 250k km (156k miles) when I first did it. The engine sounded like the clicky clack of a sewing machine. After the adjustment it quieted down and there was no distict sewing machine sound. It's hard to describe, but it very clearly made that noise before the adjustment and it clearly wasn't making the noise after. It's still quiet at 395k km (246k miles).
@jptrainor cool! I just recently readjusted my valves once more to give it a fine-tune. I still get a bit of ticking still. Normal for Honda. This is my fourth civic hatchback. Thanks for the reply.
@@jptrainorhave the same car. I sudo own it since my parents use a different car now and i was left with the old one. It was tapping for a while until i did the adjustment (at 225k miles). Over %50 too loose on 3 exhaust valves, all others were too loose except 1 intake. The car was kinda neglected except for brakes, oil, tires. Changing the black transmission fluid & filter in a few days.
That also could be the vvti gear. They are know to go bad in that generation along with many other cars. Look up vvti gear rattle and check if the sound is the same as you are experiencing.
@@donaldlee6760 Hey thank you for that tip, and link! That is exactly what hers sounds like upon startup. Now I know what the fix is. Weird I had not seen this before, as I follow Chris Fix.
@@Conservator. more reliable and cheaper. Honda knows their target consumer doesn't care about the slightly quieter engines. hydraulic lifters cause more issues and are only there for NVH (noise vibration and harshness). RAM 6.7 cummins starting in 19 use hydraulic rollers... biggest piles of junk to ever exist. Went from being the most reliable diesel engine to a pile a of dogshit. Fortunately you can buy aftermarket kits to convert them back.
@@Conservator.well 2023 pilots don’t require valve adjustments anymore, but Honda doesn’t fix what isn’t broke. They don’t have valve train problems like GM Chrysler do for a reason
They've added hydraulic lifters to the J-series engines recently (like he mentioned in the video). But until the last few years they were all like you see in this video. All the 4 cyclinder engines still use adjustable rockers AFAIK.
Did my valves this weekend and it runs like a brand new engine now. Valves were too tight and it caused the engine to run like complete crap with a very rough idle. Really makes a difference, and is very easy to do. If you've got an 8th gen Civic, be prepared to have a sore lower back when you're done tho!
I do one cylinder at a time, intake, then exhaust, torque, check again, on to the next. Come back around once you've done them all and recheck and adjust as needed. I find that as I progress through the cylinders I get more and more precise with the adjustment and the early cylinders need to be nipped up a bit.
Valve adjustments and on-time oil changes and a 200k mile R18 will continue to run as if it were fresh from the factory. Excellent little engines!
Best tip I can share... crack the locking nuts loose with your ratchet, then disconnect the extension with your socket attacked and gently tighten the nut again, just till it stops. This will make the screw part of the adjustment "firm" and hold where you set it when you go to torque. If you have the locking nut too lose, the smallest bump will throw off your adjustment.
Hey guys great video, just to let you know the latest generation 3.5 litre v6 2024 doesn't require valve adjustments anymore Honda has gone to hydraulic lifters. Also there's a special tool available from Honda for valve adjustments.
Wow finally that's why I always hated Honda I always preferred Mazda they use bucket shims still good at 200k+ miles you can just swap them out
If you don't know what you are doing on these Honda V6 J Series engines DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS. If you get this wrong you can severely damage your engine.
The Honda valve adjusting tool is part# 07MAA-PR70120. Cost about $45, and has a dial instead of a long driver handle. Downside is you have to use a separate wrench on the socket-piece to loosen/tighten the jam nut. There were knockoff versions like the Alltrade/Powerbuilt 648822 that I have, but can't seem to find for sale anymore.
amazon! $25
I've noticed many older versions of this engine will idle roughly until the engine warms up. The valve lash actually closes up and holds the valve partially open, possibly because the valve seat wears or the valve stretches over time. A valve adjustment clears this problem up and makes the engine run like new. I think Honda actually had a bulletin about this issue.
Few years ago my 2009 crv burnt a valve at 250k because I never adjusted the valves. I make sure to adjust them now. Exhaust valves always get tight but you won't hear them, you will just hear the loose intake valves. Tight and quiet is the silent killer for these.
I tried this adjustment without a lift and found the rear bank to be a PITA! In fact, it was so hard that I had to take it to the dealer. I was oissed considering that i had already changed the timng belt and water pump. I'm sure if I had a hoist, things may have been easier.
I’m a technician at a Honda dealer we recommend them every 105k as well with the timing belt service normally. Also the new Pilot (Ridgelines and Odysseys still have the older engine) with the updated engine in the current gen pilot no longer requires a valve adjustment.
Question for you. I have a 09 mdx mis fire on 3,5,6. I did the spark plugs and the coils for all. The misfire is still present along with “check emission system” and check sh-AWD system”. Unfortunately my Honda dealer has not been helpful. They wanted me to change the timing belt and then check the spark plugs. Which I just did. Is it possible this is balance adjustment? I booked in for an adjustment tomorrow shot in the dark just hoping this will resolve the issue. Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
@@cooperbell3420 could be your valve adjustment if I had to make a guess but I really wouldn’t know unless the car was I front of me
@@cooperbell34203-5-6 misfire is usually a valve adjustment issue.
Another awesome job. Thanks for the information guys I appreciate it.
Great Video I had a Customer With an Acura mdx I Fixed A Miss fire by Adjusting the valves !
what was the compression of the misfiring cylinder?
The Honda special tool for my ‘95 VTEC Prelude has a short knurled head on the screwdriver. Not sure they still make them that way, but that was some 29 years ago.
2005 MDX, 246k miles...multiple cylinder misfires. Mostly one side, but really all cylinders. Bought plugs, coils, PCV and may get an EGR. Hoping it doesn't need a valve lash adjustment.
great video thanks so much for taking the time to share always get some great useful information when i watch your channel
Great Video. But would be covering up the intake ports, just incase you drop something down there?
Good idea stuff some cloth in there or similar..
Nah. Increases billable hours.
Amazing video 🙏🏼👏😁👍🏼
The Honda J35Y8 has hydraulic lifters. It is is used in 2023+ Pilots AFAIK.
Great video buddy. You cant ask for a more simplified version! Easy peezy, lemon squeezey!!!
My 2010 Odyssey EX-L vavles were all bit loose at 235 k km (146k miles) except cylinder 5 exhaust valves which were a bit tight. I've owned the vehicle since new and it was the first time they were done (I didn't do them at the 160k km maintenance minder interval). I guess with Honda's new "when noisy" recommendation they are waiting for vehicles with tight vavles to come in with misfires in the case where they tighten over time.
Thank you for the great video. I have a problem with my b20b3. There ıs no thread left on the screw that you loose to adjust the clearance. What can I do about that?
us old timers used to go by if you are setting on .010 a .011 will not fit and a .009 is loose
Any opinion on the 2024 Honda CR V hybrid sport? Or maybe a video review?
How can you use the same filer gauge for both intake and exhaust valve ? On cylinder # 4
Cover the intake ports
How can you be certain you’re on the compression stroke during the valve adjustment?
Is it good enough to just line up the hash marks?
The manual I have just says position to TDC no.1 then move on…
You could stick a long screwdriver in the cylinder and check the piston location.
Just go by the labels on the cam shaft. If for whatever reason you don't trust the labels (just go by the labels), you can wiggle the rocker arms and if they move, they're not applying pressure to the valve, and you are good to adjust (only a TDC will both intake and exhaust rockers be free from tension)... but just go by the labels on the cam gear... that's what they're there for.
Camshaft pulley has labels on it. When you're on 1 then your engine is TDC on cylinder 1
hey guys! great video! where from can I get the application or document which you presented on the tablet?
Great video, however, you missed one very key item in the Alldata Maintenance Minder table. Maintenance Minder Item 4 is for timing belt, spark plugs and valve lash inspection which means the valve lash check/adjustment is still due every 105K with timing belt and spark plugs. The note you mentioned just means that if the valves are noisy they should be done at any of the other intervals, as well. If the interval were "only when noisy" then you'd never find and adjust a tight valve. In my experience, usually, the exhaust valves tighten up and the intakes loosen up.
Honda changed their recommendation for newer vehicles.
@@jptrainor No, they didn't. I don't know why everyone thinks this. This is taken right from the 2017 Honda Pilot owner's manual: Maintenance Minder item 4 is "Replace spark plugs, Replace timing belt & inspect water pump, Inspect Valve Clearance." Maintenance Sub Item 4 comes up at right around 105K miles, so inspecting valve clearances is part of that maintenance sub item with the timing belt and spark plug job. At the top of the page it says "Adjust the valves during services A, B, 1, 2, or 3 if they are noisy" which just means to take care of them at any oil change or service visit if they are noisy. They still are supposed to be inspected (and presumably adjusted if found out of spec) at the same time as timing belt/water pump/spark plugs.
Having checked many at 105K I've found very few out of spec at 105K but have found plenty out of spec at 150K. By 200K they can still be quiet but it's not uncommon to have unexplained misfires and rough running engine due to tight exhaust valves. I've seen it several times. Regardless, it's part of Maintenance Minder Sub item 4, every 105K, to check/inspect the valve clearances.
@@johnaclark1 There's been a more recent change to the service recommendation AFAIK.
@@jptrainor No, it's still exactly the same up to at least 2022.
@@johnaclark1 *recent* ... They're not going to (indeed, cannot) change the maintenance minder schedule for millions of shipped vehicles. There's plenty of talk, however, of the official Honda recommendation having changed.
Do you guys use your Intake vacuum waveform to check for valve adjustment, not an exact measurement for in/mm but you can see the timing between pressure pulses and you can see if the exhaust valve is out of whack based on how high its pulse is compared to the intake pulse height as the exhaust is typically the one which beats itself into the valve seat making it tight. Of course, your transducer needs to be set up properly and look a bit more wavy than what some techs prefer, cheers.
Hi, great video btw, and helpful commentary along the way. I'm lost and would really appreciate some expertise! My 2005 Accord v6 has been running well until recently on a long drive several misfire codes popped up at once. There was some rough idling and I could feel some misfires on the way home. I changed spark plugs only 500 mi ago; since the codes came all at once, I don't think it's coils either. Is it likely that the valve clearances are the issue? Especially with what you said at 8:20 .
I also have three electronic codes that popped up with the misfires, one being 83-1 (ECM/PCM relation failure). I don't know if the computer might be causing the issues or even if they're related. If you can please share an expert opinion, I would appreciate it.
1998 Honda prelude 214,000
👍. 98 Prelude 255k.
👍👍
No valve adjustment?
08 pilot with 274k
@@HighMileageOffroad Have you ever had a valve adjustment on your ridgeline?
on race cars we have changed gap and changed et slow it down a little or pick it up a little
Thanks for the content but What tablet do you use i need to get one would appreciate it
8:51
“Exhaust valves too tight”
My problem. When you beat on hondas they dont get loose, they get tighter 🤣🤣🤣.
For real though. I personally believe when you bounce a 1980-2020 honda motor off the redline it makes the exhaust valves get tighter.
Same, on my civic, 3 of the exhaust valves was at over 0.015mm (didn't bother checking bigger feelers) while the repair manual said 0.010mm 🤯. That explained why it tapped really loudly before i adjusted it. Even with the 0.015mm it felt loose.
Would love to see how to get to this point. Pulling off all the shit before this. The harnesses seem to be the biggest burden of it all.
The rear harness stayed in place for mine. I unclipped a few harness clamps to give it some slack, that's all. That's was the service manual procedure. I don't know what this vehicle was but it was obviously totally clear. I've seen quite a few videos and it seems to vary, but most typically the rear harness remains in place but is given slack and then you work around it.
Hi great video. I have a 03 Honda pilot that had the timing belt put on after it broke while driving. The car is running thankfully however I get random misfires now and sometimes car turns off. Could it be the valves loosened up or misadjusted when the timing belt broke? And now I’m having these problems? Thanks in advance for any advice!
Great video
Check the codes. Probably a crank position sensor causing the motor to stall.
2023 v6 is hydraulic lifters now no more adjustments on the V6 anymore
My question is if in the manual it says you could use this size this size or this size for The Gap, how do I determine which one to choose.?! I have a 2007 Honda Ridgeline j series engine. I did the valve adjustment for the first time it nearly 200,000 miles, I drove it 5,000 mi it sounded pretty good and now it sounds bad, there is a loud clacking sound on cylinder one and six intake on one end exhaust on six.
Your jam nuts probably came loose.
Grasias
Sister bought a 2009 Honda Pilot from a used car lot, Check engine light came on right when she got home. 5 cylinders missfiring, this has to be the reason right??? car drives fine.
Most likely, it's pretty common.
If it's over a 100k miles it needs to be done anyway.
In my experience it's always wise to check into general maintenance after buying used vehicle yourself. Keep records so you know whats been done and when.
If they say something has been done more often the not you'll find out their cousin Jett did it. Or a shop who pays mechanics by the job, not the hour.
I did the twice on my Honda odyssey. Both times values got noisy within 3k miles. Seems like the adjustment screws keep working loose. Would it be a bad idea to clean them up and add a little lock tight to stop them from moving? And yes I get the jam nuts tight!
Locktite is a bad idea. Not for internal use.
how much torque did you apply to the locking nuts?
What’s a range for how much this should cost at the dealer?
How about for Honda crv 2019 ?
Would a rattling noise on acceleration potentially be caused by valves that need adjustment? Car is 2011 Odyssey with 160K, well maintained otherwise.
Try to use gas with higher octane. My 2000 would knock on 87 accelerating up a hill when it was new. Switched to 89 and it stopped. I ran 93 in it for a little more horsepower until recently due to high prices- but still no lower than 89.
What is the pros and cons for hydraulic lifters vds these adjustable?
hydro lifters don't need to be adjusted, but are more complex and are another point of failure. There's more to it than that tho... two completely different engine designs. The overhead cam design is as simple as it gets, and that's what makes it a great design that's been around over 100 years.
2016 has 3 styles of lifters in 4 5 6 of motor
Thank you very much
23 pilots have a new valve train design, and they got rid of the timing belt tensioner design as it is DOHC finally
Where are you located? I think my valves need an adjustment. It clicks when im over 2000rpm. Would that be my rocker arms/valves?
8 months later did you find your fix? For me i knew it was the valves when i herd that one of the symptoms was the tapping, only when it got hot, realized it was fine on cold start, then started tapping when it got hot. Adjusted it myself to find 3 exhaust valves were over %50 too loose.
@3:15 New "J35Y8":
No VTEC
No valve adjustments required.
Timing belt .......
VCM may prove to be a costly repair
I am not a Honda tech nor am I professionally trained
Looks like it's at @255 time stamp on black plastic cover. J35Y8
I do a valve adjustment every time I get a timing belt
2023 pilot no more adjustment all hydraulic double overhead cam.
Woundering. My 2018 civic hatchback. How should the valves sound like when properly adjusted. I understand there will be some ticking.
Also. Should the exhaust vales be opened to 11 or 10. I understand over time the valves intend to tighten. Having the lash open more would be better or stay with 10?
My 2006 Civic (different engine than 2018) were all loose at 250k km (156k miles) when I first did it. The engine sounded like the clicky clack of a sewing machine. After the adjustment it quieted down and there was no distict sewing machine sound. It's hard to describe, but it very clearly made that noise before the adjustment and it clearly wasn't making the noise after. It's still quiet at 395k km (246k miles).
@jptrainor cool! I just recently readjusted my valves once more to give it a fine-tune. I still get a bit of ticking still. Normal for Honda. This is my fourth civic hatchback. Thanks for the reply.
@@jptrainorhave the same car. I sudo own it since my parents use a different car now and i was left with the old one. It was tapping for a while until i did the adjustment (at 225k miles). Over %50 too loose on 3 exhaust valves, all others were too loose except 1 intake. The car was kinda neglected except for brakes, oil, tires. Changing the black transmission fluid & filter in a few days.
The 2024 models are no longer using this. They are self adjusting now.
They also are using dual overhead cams per cylinder head on some models. So a total of four cams now.
Wish id known this before i bought my 22 Ridgeline. $2k service at 100,000 miles? Shoulda bought a Tacoma. 😡
Nahh… Gm ( American owned company)
i use both hands ^_^
I came here for the rear side. And he didn't film it 😢
It is federal regulations for automotive industry
1/2 cup of sugar in the fuel tank clears it right up
😂 whaaat
I thought it was a spoonful of sugar 😊
They wear to tight and end up burning the valves
My daughter's 2013 CRV rattles like a diesel at startup, but quits down soon as oil pressure comes up. Is that a symptom the valves are loose?
It’s possible but it sounds more like a timing chain issue. Hard to say without hearing it. But yes it could be a symptom of this issue.
That also could be the vvti gear. They are know to go bad in that generation along with many other cars. Look up vvti gear rattle and check if the sound is the same as you are experiencing.
Sounds like the infamous Honda VTC rattle. Chris Fix has a nice video on this.
@@donaldlee6760 Hey thank you for that tip, and link! That is exactly what hers sounds like upon startup. Now I know what the fix is. Weird I had not seen this before, as I follow Chris Fix.
Same 2.4 engine in my 2014 Accord. It was the timing chain tensioner. Less than $60 for an OEM part on eBay.
Correction. Sugar didn’t work. Actually made it worse SMH😢
Sugar ratio needs to be higher.
What was a great video but on video seem like more drag than I like
Don’t these engines have hydraulic valve lifters? I thought valve adjustments were a thing of the distant past.
No hydraulic lifters Honda is different
@@DANNYN224
Thanks. Would you know the reason why Honda doesn’t use them? I’m just curious. Tia!
@@Conservator. more reliable and cheaper. Honda knows their target consumer doesn't care about the slightly quieter engines. hydraulic lifters cause more issues and are only there for NVH (noise vibration and harshness). RAM 6.7 cummins starting in 19 use hydraulic rollers... biggest piles of junk to ever exist. Went from being the most reliable diesel engine to a pile a of dogshit. Fortunately you can buy aftermarket kits to convert them back.
@@Conservator.well 2023 pilots don’t require valve adjustments anymore, but Honda doesn’t fix what isn’t broke. They don’t have valve train problems like GM Chrysler do for a reason
They've added hydraulic lifters to the J-series engines recently (like he mentioned in the video). But until the last few years they were all like you see in this video. All the 4 cyclinder engines still use adjustable rockers AFAIK.