Camshafts 102 Everything you need to know about camshafts Roller or Flat Tappet??
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2023
- This is the second in series of videos about Camshafts. In this video I respond to your questions and comments from Camshafts 101 and take the subject to the next level
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As a new subscriber, you're teaching me a bunch. I really like the way you are teaching. Captain Keith Tight lines
You are teaching me a ton, can't wait for part 103 I'm holding off on cam, converter, and gears for my c10s 355 rebuild until I hear you out on it! also good tip of the day!
You should read vizards how to select a camshaft based on his 128 formula. First calculate lsa, then proper valve overlap which gives you the right duration, then that gives you how much lift you can get away with on that profile, then you can achive the rest with high ratio rockers that are quick off the seat and combine it all with the proper static compression and you got yourself a cam that smokes any catalog cam.
You need some sort of overlap in a naturally aspirated engine so it scavenges the cylinder properly. Forced induction has very little overlap
@@____MC____ i had my eye on that video aswell
@mjhickson4339 you should also consider totalseal videos on pistons, rings, and hone finnishes, so you're not leaving easy power on the table.
Thanks MJ. Looks like you are getting lots of response. All good, there is lots of information out there. AG
So much awesome information
Thanks Justin, motivates me to do more. AG.
I love listening to you and David Vizsard Because there’s no replacement for knowledge experience and hands-on demonstration. Thank You
Very nice compliment Paul. Thanks you very much. AG
Im new to your channel. Ive been quite impressed so far!
Thanks Luke, welcome to the channel! AG
Excellent video, thanks!
Thank you John, glad you are enjoying my videos. Lots more to come. AG
Point of the day is great.
Thanks Terry, more to come! AG
Spot on video!!👍
Thanks you Steve! AG
Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸
You are welcome Patrick, and thank you for the nice comment. Lots more to come. AG
I weld a small 1/16" thick plate in the stock type timing cover for the thrust button. The Cloyes like you showed are the best if you can afford one. I run a belt drive where I can change the lobe centers at different degrees to find out where it makes the most torque and HP. It makes it easy by losing 4 nuts and moving the cam gear out in the open, no cover to remove. Dry belt system, but it is at a cost and there is other advantages by using a belt drive for the camshaft.
Thanks Leonard. The dry belt drive is the ultimate, especially for race engines. AG
Great info, thank you sir
Thanks for your comment WTF. AG
Great video!
Thanks for your input Eric. AG
Very Educational !
Thanks Terry, glad you found it helpful. AG
I thought you had much more subscribers. I’ll send a link to some friends.
Thank you for making these video!
Very nice Conservator, thanks for your support. AG
I love how many variables to consider that present themselves when any one of us decide what concessions will be made during the design phase for purpose build engines. So often an endless supply of gurus tout their preferences as gospel, and for the amateurs out there (myself included) have to be very diligent when choosing what ideology to commit to. Racing? Road, circle, dirt, off-road, street, drag, daily driver, rebuild every season, rebuild once till death do you part, heads that flow, heads that don’t, weight, tire size, budget, analog, computer controlled, octane limited, the variables are limitless. Do your homework, be honest with yourself, and accept that you will make concessions
Well said Piercer2, My thoughts exactly. AG
Another good video, pump up is the distance from valve loft being taken up by the lifter.
Correct Tom, pump up is the distance of any slack in the valve train being taken up by the lifter.
@@goldsgarage8236 I may have misheard it but If you play that part of the video back it sounds like you only attribute it to pushrod flex.
You are correct Tom, I did only mention push rod flex, but I should have included loft. Thanks for catching this. AG
I tried Rhoads lifters once, for about a week 'til they drove me up a wall!
Remember those?
Thanks for sharing Alleyoop. I have heard that about Rhodes lifters, I have never used them. AG
On steel billet roller cams you can use composite, bronze or the one you said... One thing that is important is installing the dist. at the proper depth in the engine. Because if it is too deep it will try to drive the gears in the oil pump out the bottom. If it is too shallow it can ruin a bronze gear because it is not engage into the cam gear properly causing sharp impressions on the dist. gear. The oil pump drive shaft in a big block is 1/8" longer than a small block... If you happen to put the big block oil pump shaft you are asking for trouble! No matter how tight you make the dist. hold down the dist. will turn under rpm, making timing off... Plus it will be trying to push the oil pump gears out of the bottom of the pump with excessive wear...
Thanks Leonard. All good information. I have heard of the big block drive shaft issue before. Just another example of how many little things that can go wrong and destroy an expensive project. Experience is expensive, unless we can learn from others. AG
“Experience is expensive unless we can learn from others.”👌
I just got some tapered or conical springs. Do you have any experience with them and how they compare to beheive springs? They are supposed to control a wide range of resonance frequencies over a behive with requiring less spring pressure for the same job. Theres really nothing out there that lets you know how to properly select spring rates for them or comparing to similar capacity cylindrical springs.
Thanks for the question MC. I do not have personal experience with conical springs. The concept seems to make sense as does the Beehive spring and I would expect the specifications to be similar. Comp, or whoever makes then should be able to tell you. AG
Great videos! Lots of valuable information. I’m trying to learn and understand as much as I can to pick the right cam for my engine.
I have a cuestión regarding cam specs about the RPM rage specification for every cam, advancing and intake centerline.
So, if a cam has a powerband designed for 2000-6500 rpm, and I change it's setting by 1 degree either direction. Has the powerband now become 1900-6400 or 2100-6600? What does 1 degree change? 100 rpm? 500 rpm? I understand the theory behind advancing and retarding, but haven't seen any info other than changing it cause such and such characteristics....
I have a 350 that in trying to find a good street cam but with good power. It’s going to be a weekend driver.
So I’m trying to stay in a safe RPM range and I want to find out if I choose a cam with starting RPM of 2000 and I install at require intake center line specified and if I advance it a couple of degrees will it go to a lower RPM.?
Thanks for the comments Trivilin and all good questions.
Advancing the cam will increase low end power and retarding it will increase top end power, however advancing or retarding the cam by 1 degree will make almost no difference.
We did a video in the spring on a 400SBC where we advanced the cam by 4 degrees and it made very little difference.
Most street cams today already have advance built in.
My suggestion would be to pick the cam you want and install it on the recommended centerline.
Hope this helps. AG
@@goldsgarage8236
Thanks for the reply and suggestions.
Really appreciate it !
You are welcome. I have other videos about matching your cam to your compression that you might find helpful. AG
😂 in my experience if u take the chance on the cheap lifters u best be ready to chuck em up in your lathe and grind and polish that crown... Ive actually done this more than id like to admit with decent success on small block builds especially. Typically the cheap cams are tapered and lifters are hard enough but ive seen a lot of chinese lifters come out of the box dead flat.. I worked at a couple different un named parts stores and the stuff they carry is no different.
Thanks for sharing your process Ian, few of us are lucky to have a lathe. AG
I really enjoy your videos, but the audio volume is all over the place. Sometimes I can barely here you, other times it's as though your trying to blow out my speakers. Thank you for the videos.
Thanks for your comment KTM. Sorry about the audio. I am working on improving my presentation skills. Thanks for watching and commenting. AG
Have you ever broke a cam in that has dual springs with just the outer spring in to lighten up pressure during break in? I heard that would help prevent lifter and cam loab failure.
Yes you run the lightest spring to help not wipe a lobe off during run in
Thanks Josh. Reducing valve spring force is one of the most important ways to preventing lifter failure. I have often removed the inner spring. I use a spring tester to measure the force with and without the inner spring. Force over the nose is most important and should be less than 250 lb.
For SBC engines i use some used springs from our 602 crate engine. They are 80 lb. on the seat and 200 lb. open. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 That makes good sense, not like it's hard to change springs after break in nor will they see heavy load or excessive rpm. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and experience.
The surface contact area of a flat tappet lifter is +/- 7/8"
The surface contact area of a roller lifter is +/- 1/16"
Trying to compare lobe ramp rates is apples to oranges
Thanks for your input Lynn. AG
Will you be getting into valve events later?
Thanks Jake, Yes and I will be using the thumbnail picture for a prop. AG
I don’t think anything made today is of the quality of days past, and not just engine parts.
Thanks Jake, unfortunately I think you are correct. AG
Hah, looks like the video thumbnail was foe 201, but the content was aggreeably 102. Lookin forward to 201.
You are correct Umakemerandy. I will be using this for a prop describing valve events in future videos.
I work on overhead camstuff if you know any of that stuff I'd be super interested
Thanks Alex, no I don't have experience with OHC engines. Sorry! AG
@goldsgarage8236 still a lot of good info here. Even if I'm trying to make 2.6hp/ci most of the basics still apply
Just same comp cam I build 400 sbc comp cam I pull comp cam replaced elgin camshaft 400sbc run better
Thanks Robert. Ag
What is more complicated than a camshaft is a camshaft and a turbo. That doubles down on the difficult
Eric Weingartner proves that incorrect in one of his videos!
@@alleyoop1234 I need to see it
@@alleyoop1234 I've never seen Eric mess with turbos
Thanks David, you are already getting lots of interest to your comment. i personally have no experience with Turbo engines. AG
@@davidreed6070 He does a video on exactly that topic. I saw it about 2 months ago, but no idea when he made it
Your channel is cool but no one cares above Trevor skip that stuff 😅
Gotit, thanks for your comment. AG
The only other thing is a woman. Lol
Thanks' Hugh! That is funny but true for sure. AG
Yes sir. Can get you in BIIIIG TROUBLE!!! LOL thank you for the video sir. I am trying to learn as much as I can. Very good info.