Camshafts 101 Giving you a solid understanding about camshafts Roller, Solid and Flat Tappets
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2023
- Camshafts are the brains of your engine, also the most complex and misunderstood part.
This video is the first in a series to give you a solid foundation of understanding camshafts, which will give you the knowledge to make the best selection and produce the best engine at the lowest cost - Авто та транспорт
75?! Wow, i would've guessed you for 60s. Thanks Mr.Gold, in your golden years, for providing future generations information that is indeed pure gold.
What a nice compliment RSAW. Thank you very much, encourages me to keep digging. AG
I am 55 years old now and I cherrish every opportunity to listen to real experience. Every sub-sentence in your videos is filled with little nuggets of first hand knowlege, magnificent stuff. Thank you very much from Germany, from a guy also born on the 10th of Oktober 😁
What a nice comment! Thank you very much Patrick. AG
I just want to say thank you sir…
I’m just leaning and it’s hard to find a guy with you knowledge and experience who is willing to break things down to a basic beginner level and you do it well. I’m on my first build and I’m getting a lot from you. So thanks and keep it going please.
Very nice! Thanks Colt. AG
Great video. Looking forward to the series. You're the same age as my brother, who unfortunately I lost earlier this year. He was a Mechanical Engineer and taught me so much. Been building engines and drag racing since my teens. I wish you much success with your channel. I have no doubt you will reach your goal of subscribers by your 75th birthday. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks so much Michael and sorry to hear about your brother. Life is precious and we have to make the best of every day. AG
There is NO way that you could be close to 75 Mr. Gold! I can only hope to look and act half as good as you do if I reach that age! You are Blessed Sir!!😊
Such a nice compliment David. thanks AG
Looking forward to this Series. I learned alot from your last Camshaft Video comparing SBC Cams and Dynamic/Static Compression Ratios etc. You are a great teacher with a ton of real world knowledge. As most people are focusing on Race Car Builds and trying to feed their audience through a Fire Hose, it's nice to see that there are people that will take the time to pass on knowledge on a Garden Hose rate of info vs the Fire Hose method.
Very nice comments, thank you Joey.AG
Thx for doing very Helpful camshaft basics 101 video....With all the Flat tappet cam Failures during engine Break-in, No Investigation has identified cam Lobe or Lifter Face with Less than the SAE 55 Rockwell hardness to date AFAIK....So Out of limits spec "Soft" cam or Lifters hasn't been Causing the Majority of flat tappet Fails.....New Lifters Have been Found with Out of limit face Convex Crown Radius (dome Shape) & New camshafts Have been Found with Out of spec Lobe Taper both Causing Insufficient Lifter Rotation & resulting Break-in Fails.....Assuming Proper Motor Oil Zinc & Phosphorus PPM content, Insufficient Valve lifter Rotation Verification is Primary cause of most New cam & Lifter Break-in failures.....One average, most common Motor Oils contains 1/2 as much ZDDP as was used during 1950's thru mid 1990's.....Motor oils such as Valvoline conventional VR-1 Have the Proper PPM balance of ZDDP content....Ironically, Excessive ZDDP as found in most so called "Break-in" oil Brands actually Reduces cam lobe friction Protection & Encourages cam--lifter Failures with Marginal lifter face Crown/Insufficient lobe Taper combinations......
All good points, thanks Tom. Interesting about too much ZDDP. I have has good luck with both Lucas and Driven.
On your other point about lifter crowns and lobe tapers being out of spec, I should have mentioned that and I will try to address it in the next video on this subject. Thanks AG
Regardless of how much you know, or how much you think you know, there is always something new to learn. Looking forward to 102.
Thanks @uxbridge. I am still learning too, often from my subscribers. I will get back to the Cam videos soon. Lots to do. AG
Thanks for the cam video, this one was good for the rookies. Looking forward to the next one for sure. It will be interesting to see the follow up on the AFR valve seal problems. Thanks
Thanks for watching and commenting James. AG
AG I run a 4&7 swap on the firing order on my race roller camshaft. It came about from Prostock... Being said they claim it gains around 7 HP. It also cuts down the harmonics on the engine crankshaft to make the engine live longer... Valve spring seat and open pressure controls valve float. The main objective here is to keep the lifter down on the cam lobe and no bouncing off it! Use to be on the old days, GM made some hydraulic lifters that were anti float, # HL 66. AC is the one that made them and that is the ones I ran in my small block, plus the bottoms of the lifter were thicker than some others so they didn't have in as easy with the spring pressure. I have seen plenty of other cheap lifters cave in and go flat. Once the concave on the lifter is gone it no longer can be spinning like it suppose to. Causing the lifter and cam to go flat. I have seen many solid and hydraulic cams that went flat, due to poor process by cam companies and the wrong break-in procedures...
Thanks Leonard, all good information. I always enjoy your comments. AG
Cam and lifters are probably one of the most problematic and difficult part of engine building these days, the flat tappets have been having ridiculously high failure rates, a lot of the retro roller lifters have also been having quality control issues and leading to lifters bleeding down(obviously on hydraulic) and in some extreme cases having the bearings in the roller fail and lock the wheel up. On hardcore race applications usually running solid rollers usually require some pretty extreme spring pressure which leads to even more common lifter failure as a result. Lifters in general these days have not been built very well in the past 15-20 years, many of the GM engines with the DOD (displacement on demand) feature are notorious for lifter failure as well as many of the late model chrysler hemi engines, so even the OEMs are experiencing lifter failures, lifters and cams undergo and extreme amount of load and pressure so if the parts aren't of extremely good quality then failure is almost guaranteed. Hopefully in the future we will see quality come back but as of right now it's not looking very promising.
Thanks for your detailed comment Brian, all good information. AG
Love your videos and your attention to detail
Thanks so much for your comment Sam. AG
Thank you for your knowledge 💪🏾
Thank you Patrick, I am happy to share. AG
Thanks, great information, looking forward to the next video. I'm about to start a 400 build, so I have lots to think about!
Thanks John, let me know if you have any questions. AG
I have been watching your videos for quite a while now and since you mentioned it I noticed that I wasn’t subscribed so I subbed to help you reach your goal. I run a shop and out of all my guys the 2 best are well into their 70’s. Early happy Birthday to you Mr. Gold
Very nice of you, thank you so much for the nice gesture, it motivates me to keep going. AG
Great job explaining cams Al…..been talking lots with Kimble on cams and what might work for my future 350 build….i look forward to follow up videos on this subject and meeting you one day!
Cheers to 75 and hitting your goal of 5000 subscribers!
Thanks you SQUAREDUP, looking forward to meeting you as well. AG
Happy birthday. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the next generation.
Thanks Jona for the BD wishes. I had an awesome BD. I am fortunate to have so many awesome relationships and supporters. My psychic income. AG
Thanks for sharing you’re knowledge it like going to school !
Thanks LParsons. Glad you are enjoying my channel. AG
There's so much to picking the right cam, like what head's do you have and what do they flow at what lift, weight of car, tire size, what transmission, what converter, rear gears, where do you want your power to be ,on and on and on!! However an Isky 292 mega cam(hydraulic flat tappet) with good springs will rip right up to 7000rpms! Well with good flowing heads as well I guess. I've used those cams for years then I seen them test one on Engine Masters and took it to 7000rpms as well! It's about the biggest hydraulic flat tappet cam you'd wanna use especially on the street! But in the past there's been a lot of cars making great power with hydraulic flat tappet cams! I've never wiped one out on start up either. So if you're on a budget but still wanna make some decent power with that cool sound that we all love, for 200 bucks for cam and lifter's, flat tappet is the way to go!! Just remember to ALWAYS use good oil with zinc in it such as Amsoil hot rod oil etc. etc. Many many cars out there with well over 100,000 miles on them running flat tappet cams. Don't get me wrong, if your budget allows, definitely go with a roller cam without question, but as the man said, you're looking at I'd say an extra $1200 to $1500 for a roller over a flat tappet! If you plan on building a lot of engines with flat tappet cams I'd invest in some low ratio rockers to break them in!! Like 1:3.1 ratio.
Great comments Doc. Thanks for reminding me about low ratio rockers for break in. I will plan to cover this in my follow up video coming soon. AG
Great video. I think my 68 225 slant six also had solid lifters. I recall adjusting the lash while it was running. It was not a high performance engine. I guess solid lifters are less expensive.
Thanks Joe, yes it did, forgot about that. There were probable a few more engines in that era that had solid lifters. Back then it was common to adjust lifters with the engine running. It was a messy process with hot oil splashing around. Brings back memories. AG
Very informative great video
Thanks Justin, more to come. AG
thank you
You're welcome
Very nice video, thanks.
I sort of remember the Chevy cam failures of the early 80's or so. People were replacing them on just about everything. It seemed like nobody gave a second thought to all that debris floating around the engines back then. They just replaced the camshaft and all was well. We wouldn't think of doing that now.
I have a friend that races a dirt track late model - went for years and years with no camshaft problems. Last year one failed after a few races - that got replaced, engine gone through, major cash spent. Later in the season it failed again. Spare engine back in. He says he spent more on refreshing the engines than he would have if he bought 2 sets of roller cams. But the rules don't allow rollers. These are pretty big money race cars - maybe 35 years ago when they wrote the rule book it was the right thing to do, but now the cost of a roller cam is insignificant compared to what they spend on these cars.
Good point John. Often rules of racing that were intended to reduce costs, do the opposite, I see that a lot. Race engine flat tappet cams are even more vulnerable than street engines because they typically have higher lifts and bigger valve springs. AG
Back around then maybe 1987 i was an oilfield mechanic and we were using Shell Rotella for our gas engines and we lost quite a few cams even the employees were losing them as well since we let them service their vehicles on the weekend at the shop. we figured they were going to steal the oil and filters anyway might as well just give it to them as a perk of the job. At the same time we started losing big rig transmissions "fuller road rangers" also being ran with Rotella oil. we stopped using Shell Oils and ran some oil tests wth a lab and they stated that on the cams the oils we used lacked top end engine lubrication and the transmissions i can't remember. I swapped all the gas engines to Castrol 20/50 GTX and the big rigs went to either Delo or Delvac 15/40 and the transmissions and rear ends went to Primrose Oil. we used to lose a gas engine or 2. every summer before switching and after that we lost none, same with the big rigs and transmissions and rear ends. Things went from premature failures to just wearing out with age as they should. I replaced all those gas engine cams with a good quality RV type cam and some good Crower etc type lifters and good double roller timing chains those engine ran better than ever before. Worst engine oil i ever used was Havoline i lost at least 3 personal engines using that oil over the years. Oil types and brands DO make a difference.
Good comment.
It's been discussed over and over recently on an automotive site (Iatn) about how important the correct oil is, now more than ever with VVT, direct injection, and roller everything. The marketing on the oil containers is very misleading, their claims of "Meets or exceeds" whatever doesn't tell us much. Meets or exceeds can mean a lot of things. Roller lifter failure on on many popular pick up truck engines now is a big problem. @@markthegunplumber8376
I build approximately 10 + oval track engines with flat tappet's and have never flatten a lobe but my process is extensive #1 buy quality cam and lifters mine are Bullet/Ultradyne and then use blue ls springs for break in at 90 lbs seat approximately 250 open psi then use 1.3 break in rockers , and 20 min initial break in 1st heat cycle then 2 more heat cycles and use driven or penn grade break in oil , after set up springs needed for racing no problems with the good luck great videos.
Thanks for the info Larry. Your break in procedure is excellent. Mine is very similar. I don't have the 1.3 rockers but I use valve springs from a 602 crate engine, they are 80lb on the seat and 200lb open. Glad you are enjoying my videos. AG
Pumpup is a valve spring issue allowing the lifter to not follow the cam profile. The net cause can be not enough spring pressure, spring surge which is related to natural frequency or a combination of the two.
Thanks for the comment Dale. I will cover this in my follow up video coming soon. AG
I am not a Chevy guy but, I was told the reason the Duntove Cam was called 30 /30 was because it had 300 degrees advertised Duration and 300 thousand lift at the cam.
Thanks Mylan. That may very well be true, the numbers are pretty close. thanks for sharing. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 i did some more Research on that and You are Right the 30/30 was 30 lash intake and 30 exhaust, My source was wrong.
Thanks Mylan. So the Duntov cam actually had .485" lift (before lash which was of course .030") With a 1.5 rocker that would be .323" at the lobe. The duration was pretty close to 300 degrees when you use the GM way of measuring it with very soft ramps. AG
Very good explanation
Thanks for your comment David, more to come! AG
Happy birthday young man!
Thanks you very much Hugh. 75 doesn't feel like i was expecting. AG
Good video mr gold
Thank you Paul, I did miss a few points but pick then up on the next video, Camshafts 102. Please watch for it coming soon. AG
Well done. Roller for me.
Thanks Paul. AG
My first build was a 10.2:1 332 sbf, 190cc aluminum heads -2.02/1.60 valves springs good to .575 lift, flow 250@ .500, dual plane intake, 600cfm vac sec summit carb, 1-5/8 mid length ceramic coated headers to 2-1/2” collector, then 2-2 2-1/2 to single 3”, for my 4000lb manual trans bronco. Wanted my power breaks to function, so opted for a 112 LSA, live at 5100’ elevation and get 12 inches vacuum at idle. Chose comp cam 266HR12, 266/274 duration, it runs strong for a small inch motor w/ 3.73s on 35” tires. Not a race car, my set up just works. Manual trans 1st gear is 6.69:1, so crawling around on snow or rocks is cake. My 85 mph freeway rpm is around 3200 rpm, so it’s nice for cruising too. Averages 15mpg, which i imagine is what it got with stock smog motor 302, but with twice the power. Not sure if going with a 108 LSA would’ve been better or not, but at least I didn’t pick a completely wrong cam for my application
The 108 would tend to give a bit loppy idle and stronger low end torque. The wider LSA tends to give a smoother idle and flatten the torque curve. It can extend it a bit, kind of like stepping on a can a bit with the ends cut out. The less height it has but more width.
@@daledavies2334 thanks for reading my comment and for your input.
Thanks Pierce. Looks like you put a lot of thought into this build. Nice to see good information about a Ford build, I am sure many viewers will appreciate it. AG
Can you cover in one of your videos about noise that a full roller adjustable hydrolic valvetrain makes? I've run them in 2 different Ford engines and they always make some noise. Any thoughts about this would help. Thanks.
Thanks for the question Frank. Yes I have seen both roller and flat tappet lifters that were a little noisy, even though there was nothing wrong with them.
To be sure, I check them frequently during the initial stages of break in.
I remove the valve covers and check both intake and exhaust on each cylinder when the piston is at top dead center firing. You can just remove the distributor cap to know where it is and it doesn't have to be exact as both intake and exhaust valves are a long way from moving. Just follow the firing order.
You don't have to back off and readjust the rocker arms, just check for looseness by pressing on the them, trying to lift the push rod etc.
As long as there is no clearance or looseness, you should be ok.
Hope this helps. AG
Nice
Thanks John, hope it was helpful. AG
Nice video.
Regarding hydraulic lifters they do run engines up to 10 000 rpm with hydraulic rollers now. Quite impressive. But not a standard lifter for sure.. 🙂
Nascar are amazing engines and its fairly recent(2014 i think) they moved away from flat tappet cams. Those engines spun some 9000 rpms and put out 850 horse. With similar bsfc as an F1 engine of the time. With a carbureted two valve pushrod engine! 😮 just amazing
I read that NASCAR got away from flat tappet cams mainly because they couldn't deal with the failures anymore. It became too much of a problem to try and manage. I wonder if that is indeed true.
Thanks Magnus. A good friend of mine is an engine builder in NC. He has worked for major NASCAR teams. they live in a different world. AG
Thanks Doug, one of the problems with roller lifters is that they are heavier and that is a problem at high RPM. I will do a little demo on my gram scale in the next video. AG
@@dougsmaintenanceshop5868 teah I also heard they were really pleased when they could move over to roller cam. Especially during the last years the failures of the flat tappet seemed to increase.
@@goldsgarage8236 yeah those engines are in a totally different league. Very impressive stuff. Must be something working on those
Also when going roller you might have to change the distributer gear to a polymer gear
Thanks for the comment Michael. AG
What a very informative video. Thanks Mr. AG. Way too much info for a beginner, like myself to take in all at once. You did great, but you know what goes on with the different cams and lifters. It may help if you did videos on each cam and what application could be used instead of back and forth with, Anyways, sorry but I'm still lost in the differences. You did well fir those who have experience. All I ask if you explain each cam and what type lifters can be used. Thanks. Truck Driver Ray ✝️ USA
Thanks Raymond. That is great input. I will try to cover this for you in the next video on this subject, Camshafts 102. AG
@goldsgarage8236 Thanks Mr. AG. There's so many variables to consider, to learn when it comes to different cars Fri. What read seen and heard. Thank you for what you do. Truck Driver Ray ✝️
@goldsgarage8236 Sorry should have proof read my message. So many variables with different cams
My dad had a 69 l88 in a '68 Camaro back in the '70s it had a ZL1 cam tunnel ram and headers and some other stuff done to it he ran av gas in it but he said in a pinch he could run high octane pump gas but my far away big block Chevy has 165 psi if I run anything under 91 octane it'll rattle 91 is the highest we have at the pump where I live I guess my camera is a little bit too small but it's in a pickup so I didn't want a big one
I am looking for a good hydraulic roller for a bbc 540 that will survive power tour 10:5.1 rhs heads 55 chevy 2500 stall
Back in the day there was an auto parts store called Super Shops. It was the Summit Motors of the time. Like Summit they offered parts made with their own twist.
One of these twist was a hydraulic lifter with a half circle base. A flat tappet that wasn't close to being flat. I loved those things. The base was thicker and the circular base seemed to have less visible cam wear under slightly higher than normal abuse.
I used them in 427's running dual 850 Holley's on alcohol w/concreted lower ends and sleeved cylinders at 12*1 + compression, copper head gaskets and such.
I can't find them any more. Have you run this type of lifter if so any opinions on them?
Thanks Tayro. You build big HP. Sorry, i am not familiar with those lifters.. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 All good, thanks for the reply.
Aren't all lifters supposed to have a crown
@@carlpreston1680 This was not a crown they had a round base with a small flat spot.
I'm installing a new solid flat tappet cam in my 454. What do you think of the lifters with a .015 hole in the bottom for extra lubrication? Sounds like a good idea, have you tried them?
Thanks Joe. No I have never tried them but the idea seems sound. You might bleed off a little oil pressure so you might do some homework on that first. AG
Yes, a high volume high pressure oil pump would be a good choice.@@goldsgarage8236
Yep. I learned something! I knew hyd lifters were only good to about 6000, BUT I didnt know it was because they pumped up solid holding the valve open. I thought Hyd lifters just lost lift due to the pumping action not being all the way up all the time. Hmm.
Thanks Gary, glad you found the information helpful. AG
Thanks for another information-packed video. I’ve got a question about lifter clearance, when you don’t know exactly what you’ve got…. This past June 2023, I bought a 1965 Corvette, with original engine, 327-350 hp, that has been blueprinted, and had a somewhat hotter cam installed. Neither the seller nor his engine builder has records on the build, and cannot provide any other information, other than the builder says it had a “hydraulic cam” (whatever that means). It sounds great, just like it has solid lifters (like a sewing machine), and an experienced Corvette restorer agrees with that assessment. The 327-350 originally came with hydraulics from the factory.
If it has solids, it will need adjustment eventually, which I doubt has ever been done since the rebuild, quite some time ago. Do you think I should remove the intake manifold and find out what type of lifters are in there? Otherwise would it be safe to assume (based on the sound), that there are solids, and set the clearance to some nominal value? Thank you.
Thanks for the question Spacedout, that is an interesting one. First of all a hydraulic valve lifter has a small plunger or piston in a hydraulic chamber that maintains constant contact in the valve train, "zero lash". so no noise. A solid one by definition is does not, so a clearance or lash is necessary to provide for expansion.
The 327-350 is one of my favorite engines and very unlikely that is has a solid lifter cam but here is how you can find out.
Remove the driver side valve cover, set the distributor/rotor to #1 TDC. (you will have to remove the distributor cap, rotate the engine until the rotor points to the #1 position on the cap. (you should be able to do this with a 5/8" socket on the harmonic balancer, it will be much easier if you remove the spark plugs) then align the timing mark on the harmonic balancer to zero.
This is the position you will want to adjust the valves on #1 cylinder.
If it is a solid cam the "lash or gap" between the rocker arm and the top of the valve should be somewhere between .010" and .030" (the Corvette fuel injection cam was called the Duntov 30-30 because it had .030" of lash.) You may be able to feel it just with your fingers.
If not, try to insert a feeler gauge (start with .010") between the rocker arm and top of the valve. If you can insert it, you probably have a solid lifter cam. Keep putting thicker feelers in until you determine the gap.
If there is no gap, try pushing down on the top of the push rod, often a hydraulic lifter will collapse slightly just by pushing on it.
If not, try turning the adjustor nut slowly and watch to see if the pushrod moves down.
If it does, you are pushing the plunder into the lifter and have a hydraulic cam.
If you do, then you might try to adjust all the lifters.
Start with #1TDC where you already are. Back off the rocker arm adjustor on the Exhaust valve, then re-tighten slowly until you take up the clearance. Try to rotate the push rod with your fingers as you go, when it gets hard to rotate the push rod, you have zero lash. Now rotate the adjustor nut one more half turn and you are there. This action depresses or preloads the plunger in the lifter bore. Repeat on the intake valve.
In this position you can also adjust exhaust 3,4,8 and intake 2,5,7.
Now rotate the engine 360 degrees until the timing mark on the balancer is again at zero. This is TDC #6.
Now you can adjust Exhaust 2,5,6,7 and intake 3.4.6.8.
If it is a solid cam, which I doubt get back to me and I will give you a procedure for that.
In the process, check if there are any very loose rocker arms. If there are, or if the adjustment doesn't help. it might be a sign that your cam or lifters are failing, I sure hope not. Some cams like the COMP XE cams are just noisy by design.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. AG
Thank you for your incredible insight. I’ll certainly follow up on this, but have a follow up question. If there are hydraulics lifters, after running the engine, and I were to check the rocker arms for play, shouldn’t they all be tight? (assuming that they haven’t leaked down?). Thanks again.@@goldsgarage8236
Thanks for the follow up. Yes, they should all be tight. If any are loose, either the lifter has collapsed or the cam lobe is worn. One other possibility is that the adjustor nut has backed off. If not, the next step is removing the intake manifold. Let me know what you find. AG
You need to use an oil with zinc in flat tappet cams as well. That’s why a lot of guys use she’ll Rotella diesel oil, ect. Companies like Amsoil make high zinc oil for flat tappet cams. I personally don’t trust adding a bottle of zinc additive personally.
Rotella reportedly has reduced the amount of zinc and while it still has some, it's not enough. And it's a high detergent oil. It might be fine for broken in engine, along with a zinc additive, but you shouldn't use a detergent based oil for break in. It basically cleans the zinc off of everything.
Great point!
thanks Willy. I have covered the details of flat tappet cam break in - in other videos on my channel so I didn't want to get into the details on this one. I use Lucas break in oil with Zinc ZDDP, no failures so far. there are other good break in oils. AG
Don't want to open old wounds but didn't that 307 round off some lobes of the XE comp cam ?
Thanks for the comment Tom. The 307 survived break in on the test stand and about 15 pulls on the dyno.
It was delivered and installed by others. It was driven unknown miles with the PCV vacuum port open, spark plug wires crossed and timing off by a lot. It did wear some lobes in about 1000 miles.
This time the owner helped me to R&R it in my shop and I fixed it regardless.
That was January, still running good!
AG
I still want you to build a 350 Engine for Street use🙋🏿♂️😊
Sure John. SG
In the mid 80s doing a burn out , over reved and let off quick, the cam flexed the timing cover and my cam button dropped into the oil pan. Wasnt pretty.
Thanks for the info Spank. I will use this in my follow up video. AG
You forgot about the distributor gear for a roller vs flat. 😮
Thanks Eric, you are correct. I will try to cover that in the next video Camshafts 102. AG
An issue to cover for sure, but many rollers do not need a different distributor gear unless I believe its a billet cam. Another the issue is fuel pump rod with a roller.@@goldsgarage8236
So I saw a video on Chinese vs American made roller lifters. The Chinese had very loose links allowing the lift to rotate back and forth way more. That can’t be good on the roller and cam!
Thanks Gary, the low price is tempting but the reviews are scary. I would never take a chance because if they fail, they could destroy the engine. AG
So when u gonna tell how to properly select a grind
Just 1 camshaft? I’d expected 4 of them. 😜
Thanks Conservator, I had a big block roller cam and small block flat cam to illustrate. I did discuss solid lifter cams but I don't have any to show. AG
@@goldsgarage8236
I’m sorry it was a bit of a lame statement. I was thinking about DOHC engines. I’m European (Dutch) and most engines here are 3 and 4 cilinders with a few exceptions. I’m a big fan of inline 6’s myself and although technically very advanced (eg BMW B58) I do appreciate the much less complex American V8 pushrod setup.
I very much enjoy your deep dives in different aspects of (race) engines and the engineering behind them. Not many UA-camrs do.
Thank you very much!
Just noticed your comment Conservator, thanks very much!. AG