Using green wood in woodturning: Part 1- Cutting the log in to blanks, rough turning, and drying
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- From logs to lumber, trees to tableware, if you're not using green wood you should be! This video shows my complete process for using fresh-cut or "green" wood in log form for woodturning my bowls.
Turning green wood is one of the most fun things you can do on a lathe- the wood fibers are still wet and yield easily to your sharp tools. Plus, the material can often be had for free or just firewood prices, and you are salvaging a material that would otherwise go to the landfill or maybe the fire pit at best and giving the noble tree a second life as a cherished heirloom!
In this detailed video, we will start with the initial breakdown of the log, cutting it in to manageable pieces with the chainsaw while paying attention to things like removing the pith (the very center of the tree), grain direction and layout and efficient use of the chainsaw. While I follow generally safe chainsaw practices, this video is not intended to be a chainsaw safety or operation tutorial, there is too much material to cover in this video already and if you are not familiar with the chainsaw, I recommend some of the excellent content on Stihl's UA-cam channel, or, better yet, seeking out in-person instruction.
We will continue breaking down the blank by cutting it in to a round on the bandsaw while continuing to pay attention to layout and grain direction considerations that will impact the final grain pattern in the bowl.
Next, we'll discuss methods of mounting the bowl on the lathe, including between centers and faceplate mounting. I'll show you the various drive centers I would use for this task and explain the reasons why I recommend that beginners start their bowl on a face plate. The correct screws to use when mounting work on a faceplate will also be mentioned. Do not use common wood screws, they are not strong enough in the shearing direction. Use sheet metal screws or Spax screws.
On the lathe, I will turn the bowl to a rough thickness of about 5/8" using the 1/2" (5/8" bar stock) Ellsworth grind bowl gouge. (This gouge profile or grind is also known as the Irish grind or side grind bowl gouge or sometimes people will say fingernail grind to mean the same thing. Some would argue there are slight differences in these grinds but I find the distinctions somewhat pedantic and relatively unimportant).
Finally, with the bowl turned to a uniform wall thickness, I'll demonstrate a couple drying methods you can use to let the bowl dry slowly without cracking over a few months. There is the "paper bag and shavings" method that I have never been able to use successfully here in Colorado, but which I'm told works well in more humid parts of the country, and then there is my method of choice, coating the entire rough-turned bowl with Anchorseal or green wood end sealer. Next, we'll set the bowl aside to dry gently without cracking for several months and I'll see you later in part 2 of this series to demonstrate how I remount the dried bowl back on the lathe and turn it a second time down to final thickness. (I'll use some dried bowls I already have so that you don't actually have to wait months for part 2).
![Woodturning - Twice Turned Bowls Simplified [My Easy Inexpensive Method for Drying Blanks]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fYQSQiz8G6c/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video--thank you. I learned so much. You're a wonderful teacher--I wish you had more videos!
Thank you for this video. I needed this information and demonstration.. I really need a big nice band saw... Here in Texas in the summer everything cracks immediately
One of the better videos I've seen for describing this process, and I've watched quite a few in my efforts to learn. Well done.
Thank you, lots of useful information. This was the 1st time seeing someone use lines to explain vs just saying what to do.
Super helpful. Probably the most thorough video I’ve seen on the topic. Thx!
Absolutely LOVE turning green wood, cuts really well and also reminds me to clean the lathe bed and the surrounding area immediately afterwards too! 😂 Interesting to see different drying methods, thanks for sharing 👍
Haha, I made a rookie mistake and forgot to clean right after- that led to some WD-40 & scotchbrite time later. Glad you enjoyed it!
I turned my first green log today and just finished cleaning/polishing the lathe bed, lol.
This was straightforward and informative, thanks!
When trimming the log to line final blanks, I use 1” or 2” painters tape and I use the edge of the tape for my guide. It is easy to mark and adjust the line of cut.
Something I am going to start to do. Just need a few more things for my Lathe and a bigger chainsaw. Thanks
Thanks for the video. BTW, an pneumatic chisel can make short work of removing bark.
Very informative !!
Much appreciated
I am new to turning from logs. This video was particularly helpful in figuring out where on the log to make my cuts. Already learned the hard way not to leave the pith in! Your drawing of the lines on the end of the log really helps to visualize the process. Thanks. PS. I came to this video via my following you on Instagram.
Oh good, glad to hear it was helpful and thanks for making the trek over here from IG!
Super informative! Thanks Chris!
Thanks, Matt!
Hi. New subscriber here from the North East. Great tip using the Fostner bit in the face plate to help center the face plate. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful & thanks for subscribing!
First time viewer. Outstanding information and explanations. I am an experienced turner and I loved your presentation. Good job.
Thanks for your kind words Ken, glad you enjoyed it.
Man kann auch Gruenholz komplett fertig drehen Wandstärke 2-3 mm. Auch sofort schleifen ist möglich. Nach einer Runde mit Körnung 40, 60, 80 ist das dünne Objekt schon so trocken, dass man gut weiter schleifen kann bis 400. Dann wird es interessant, weil das Objekt sich in alle Richtungen verzieht.
Nice lathe awesome video I subscribe will be watching 4 more thanks!! Oregon
Thank you so much for well presented and informative video.
Great video, thanks for the informative video. Great information on laying out the initial cuts in the raw blank.
Need to figure out drying up here in NH. TN was all about the paper bag!
I'm not too familiar with that part of the country (spent a week in Maine a couple years ago and loved it)- I'm trying to remember- is it drier than TN and not as dry as CO? If so, green wood end sealer on just the end grain parts of the bowl blank might work for you.
After watching your video for a minute or so it was an immediate subscribe, it was also obvious that you are very creative and quite savvy when working with your tools. Also like how you create and edit the videos.
Very useful and informative video, thanks for sharing :)
Excellent video. Thank you!
Yay! Some good perspective for us CO woodturners. Appreciate the information. I too tried the bag & shavings method originally, resulted in some unplanned custom-shaped firewood for me.
Question: I recently got some silica desiccant to try for quicker drying. Have you tried that here in CO?
I have not tried that- you'll have to let me know how it goes! In general though, I just subscribe to the philosophy explained by Dale Larson in a class I took with him one time. He explained that "In a week, I'll be turning some wood. Next month, I'll be turning some wood. A year from now- you guessed it, I'll be turning wood" so he just sets up a pipeline and waits and once you have that pipeline going, how long it takes to dry doesn't really matter as long as it dries successfully.
Thanks, would sanding seal work as a drying coating?
What is length of your saw blade? What would you recommend?