Check out our "How to start and operate" Ford 9N, 2N, and 8N video here. The process with a Ford Jubilee, NAA, 600 series is similar. ua-cam.com/video/PDl2YH4IyyU/v-deo.html
Can't thank you enough for the Ford 8N videos. We acquired a nicely restored 8N when we bought our property. I haven't driven a tractor since I was 16, an old IH belonging to my grandpa, and I know very little. You are helping me correct that so we can take care of the Ford and our land.
I have all the n tractors got hold of 53 golden jubile what a difference live hydrolics & howard tiller gear make brush hoging excellent video cheers 🥂 😊
Very nice! I've never owned a Golden Jubilee - but that would be a nice addition to our 8N and Workmaster 641. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
Glad it was helpful! And so exciting that you got your first tractor. They're such useful tools, with amazing history. These 8Ns will always stop me and make me want to watch whatever they're being used for.
Many times when having to move any mower I will disconnect the PTO shaft. That way I can still raise & lower the implement without having any moving parts like mower blades or tiller blades spinning. The PTO shaft clutch is very important to any of these non-live PTO tractors to have! I have a John Deere finishing mower & a King Cutter brush hog mower for the 20 acre small Thoroughbred farm we operate. Wish it only took a couple of hours to mow main field! Usually takes at least 12 to 16 hours over the course of a few days & about 12 gallons of gas. You provide very good tips to novice tractor operators.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! We appreciate it. That’s a good point about disconnecting the PTO while moving around. Yes - that overrunning clutch is a key component to add if it’s not already there. 12-16 hours! Wow - that’s a lot of seat time. At least it’s enjoyable work. :)
@@PurpleCollarLife It depends on how hot or cold it is & if there is a wind or not or if it begins raining as to how enjoyable it is. Actually prefer working with our Thoroughbreds who are very curious & always watching us while working on the equipment.
So glad I found your channel. I'm getting my first tractor at 50 years old and have been looking for the same Ford coincidentally. I've learned so much thank you.
Welcome aboard! Did you see our "How to start and operate a Ford 8N" video? ua-cam.com/video/PDl2YH4IyyU/v-deo.html You're going to love having a tractor.
That is a very well done video Chad. Thorough and detailed as you normally are. Should be very helpful for People getting the hang of running these older tractors. It definitely take some more skill than the newer ones
My fiancee and I were just given an 8n of her grandfathers that passed away last year, was completely rebuilt before he got sick with only an hour of run time, been holding out on buying one and it paid off, cannot wait to get out in the fields with it. thanks for all the info.
Thanks for watching! I'm like you - I enjoy watching videos of brush hogging also. It's just so satisfying. :) Thank you for leaving a comment - every single comment and click of the like button helps our channel be promoted to larger audiences.
Thanks for all the great videos! Love the history of the tractor, I just bought a 1950 8N from the livestock auction, needs a bit of work but it came with a spare engine (actually the original engine off of it, someone at some point swapped it with a Ford stationary industrial engine with a magneto ignition) and a bunch of extra parts, guy traded some work for it and did a bunch of work to it but then had to sell it to pay medical bills :( so I picked it up from the auction for cheap and dragged it home, finally got all the little parts it needed and going to hopefully get it running this weekend!
Thanks for watching and sharing your story! Keep us posted on the progress with your 8N. They're great finds. And it's always fun to see one at an auction!
Thanks 👍 There's something about tractor seat time. But these classic tractors bring about that joy plus the thoughts of the decades of work they've done. It's fun and nostalgic at the same time.
I was always told it is best to run the ford 8N everyday. Also if the tractor could drive over saplings the brush cutter would cut them. Great video nice tractor!
This was a great video! I bought my first tractor last weekend and it is a Ford 8N. I wish I would have saw this video before I brush hogged my fields the other day but I got through it, lol. I learned a lot of great tips watching this so thank you very much! I'm also in North West Pennsylvania!!
Hello! Congratulations on your new Ford 8N. :) You're going to love having the tractor. They are hard working and reliable (in our experience). We're glad you enjoyed the video. We've got quite a few videos with the Ford 8N. They should be in this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLJy7cj0ut2cBWTStoVA1G_lfQ8hnhUtLu.html
Thanks for watching and leaving us a comment! We love these old Ford tractors. That 8N has been in the family since new. And I recently added a Workmaster 641 to the fleet.
I've never operated an N before, but I have operated it's bigger brother the Workmaster and it is just such a reliable little tractor, use it for mowing with a little pto belt mower on the back
Thanks so much for your videos. You provide great details. We have a Golden Jubilee that we'll be trying to get running in November and most of what you talk about applies to those tractors too. Thanks again.
That's a very nice example of the Ford 8N. I like the red and white, makes it really stand out! My grandfather, father and I all shared ownership of a 1949 Ferguson TO20, very similar to the Fords and it looked and operated in nearly the exact same way. The only difference was the entire hood had to be raised to access the gas tank and radiator. I remember Bush hogging with an old Woods very similar to yours, very reliable, always cut the grass and weeds very well. One problem was that when you had to stop and shift gears, the momentum of the spinning shaft would cause the gears to grind, you had to wait until the PTO stopped spinning to shift, which was annoying. I wish we had had a slip clutch, it probably would have alevienated that problem. Good memories for me! Thanks for sharing, Chad! 🙂
Thanks for watching! You're absolutely right about the momentum of the rotating shaft and changing gears. That overrunning clutch fixes that issue. My first tractor (the Ford 2N) didn't have the overrunning clutch, and I had trouble stopping when I needed to, and switching gears. It was a lesson in patience waiting on that PTO shaft to totally stop movement before trying to change gears. I would think the 1949 TO20 would be nearly identical to the early 8N we have. Great machines for sure.
When using a pto driven a attachment with a Ford n series tractor, many people will leave the pto shaft unattached until they are in position and ready to use it. For example, while driving to the location or when doing the initial lift to make sure no critters have made a home under it.
The ONE thing I see people who own these things forget is that these engines were designed for LEADED fuel. So you MUST use a lead substitute. I use a product from Motor Medic, that you can get from Walmart or anywhere for about 5-8 bucks a bottle. If you DONT use this, severe engine damage can/will occure. Fortunately, the parts are readily available, but it would require an engine overhaul. So always remember to have this stuff added to your fuel
The draft lever is actually the 3 inch long lever near the Touch Control lever. You are using the 'Touch Control Lever' to lift the 3 point hitch. We usually just called it the 3 point lift.....Enjoy your videos, We had 4 8Ns that were worked hard in the hay fields.
Thanks! I sometimes mistake (my brain goes faster, or maybe slower, than my mouth in these videos sometimes). I’ve heard that the small lever is to move from “draft control” to “position control”, and that determines whether the big lever (3 point control) is in draft or position mode. It’s very confusing - I try to keep the little lever where it’s at because the big lever does what I want it to do right now. :) We’re your 8Ns a mix of the older and newer ones (front distributor and side distributor)? Or were they all the same generation? Thank you for watching!
Good video. I didn’t realize pto had to be engaged to lift 3 point hitch, I only thought clutch had to be out. I wonder if that varied year to year, model by model? A couple notes: I think the 3 point hitch lever is “position control”. “Draft control” typically refers to a secondary, more sophisticated addition to the 3 point hitch control system for ground engaging attachments (plows) that “automatically” raises (and lowers) the 3pth and plow when the load gets too much. Basically it adjusts 3pth height to maintain a steady pull force. Remember, if you add a overrun clutch on the PTO spindle, you’ve shortened the length the PTO shaft MUST still be able to telescope to. Cutting the shaft may be required. Otherwise, if it “bottoms out”, mower can’t lower and the PTO shaft will be supporting the full weight of the mower on the tractor’s rear PTO spindle bearing and rear end casing. That may be fatal to the tractor. When backing into an overgrown area I always have the mower as high as possible. I’d rather lower the mower onto a hidden object and ding the blades than back the mower into the obstacle and fold the mower’s sides into the blades. That gets real noisy! Been there done that too many times.
Hi Cody - yes, the PTO does have to be engaged to lift the 3 point on these old Ford tractors (9N, 2N, 8N). The Jubilee/NAA were the first Ford tractors to have hydraulic lift without the PTO engaged. You're right - the lever function for the 3 point hitch I should have referred to as Position Control. That's how I'm using it. But it can be called Position Control or Draft Control, depending on how you have the little lever under the seat set. Ask Tractor Mike does a great job explaining the difference on a newer tractor here: ua-cam.com/video/7jwcwLWGXWI/v-deo.html Yes - another great point about the overrunning coupler. We did have to shorten the PTO telescoping shaft to enable the mower to raise and lower fully without putting undue strain on the telescoping PTO shaft of the brush hog. Another great point about lowering the brush hog onto an area rather than backing into it. It's exactly these type of knowledgeable comments that will help others as they read through the comments in our video. Thanks again, Cody!
I can't tell you how many times I hear that from people. I can't quite remember if I learned first on a tractor, or on Dad's old Ford Ranger (5 speed) picking up bales of hay in the hayfield.
Excellant video my friend! Very well done, I learned a lot! Biggest issue I have is the speed at which to run as in my pasture(s) I have to make many turns & without power steering, no Sherman gear reducer I hate to ride the clutch!!! I too have a path deep into the woods I have to clear & you give me the confidence to make an attempt at it...I just am curious, I have a lot of overgrown Montathorora rose bushes on the outside of the fenceline, is it best to lift the hog & back in & out of it while continuosly lowering the hog to get it down to a manageable level? I figured with your 20 years with an 8N, you'd know! Thanks SO MUCH! btw, this is my first 8N on my small horse farm. All the best to ya! Kokomo in western PA
Thanks for the comment and question! And congratulations on your new Ford 8N. You'll find it is an amazing and very reliable tool for use as a property owner. As far as how to handle those overbrown bushes - it really depends on how thick the stems are. You might be able to back right over them and cut them off. Or - you could do like you suggest and leave the brush hog up, and lower it down on top a little at a time. I've done both - it takes a little trial and error to learn what methods work best in what situations. Watch for fawns in the high grass this time of year. They get scared and won't move out of the way. I always walk the path/area first to look for them. Enjoy that tractor!
Your operations video set me on the right track from day 1 only 6 weeks ago and I use my tractor 2-3 times a week now. Come this spring, I would like to add a finish mower for our lawn. It only about 2 acres but my lawn mower garden tractor is on it’s last legs and I’d rather buy a used implement than a new riding mower. What is the smallest type of pto mower available for the 8N….used. Thanks, great stuff that you present
The one drawback of the N-series is the lack of live hydraulics/pto. However, their simplicity and reliability are the tradeoff. These machines are 70+ years old yet will give you decades more reliable work.
That's true. The live hydraulics on our 1957 Ford Workmaster is certainly a nice benefit. But - you're right - all of these old tractors will likely last ANOTHER 75 years. :)
around 7:30 your off and behind the tractor with it raised. how did you get the tail wheels to stick up? my pto shaft hits the frame of the brush hog when the draft lever is fully raised. mine is a 1951 and I have 3 holes for the top link. it's in the bottom hole. I'm using a category 1 top link and I've adjusted it with no change. any ideas?
@@PurpleCollarLife Well I no longer eat potatoes, not because I was a bad boy, but I have to melt a 30 pounds before Christmas, I'm trying hard to be a better sell value for myself so perhaps, maybe I can attract better looking Women's 🤣😇👌👍🍻
That's a great tip! We actually have a section of screen in front of the radiator to keep it clean on the Workmaster 641. You probably can see it in some of our other brush hog videos when we use the 641.
This video was very helpful! I am beginner with this tractor. I just found out about the position control and draft mode. Problem I am having is in draft mode it digs into the ground. When I put it in position control the lever needs to be 3/4 of the way down or when I engage to go it rises back up. It won’t go down any further when the lever is pushed past 3/4. Any thoughts or do you have a video showing the full explanation of the position control lever?
Recently purchased a 9n, so far runs great! Learning much from your videos. Do recommend a parts dealer for these tractors, would like to purchase the sway bars that you recommend. Thanks!
Congrats on the Ford 9N tractor! You’re going to wonder what you ever did without it. As far as a parts dealer - I have used a few. There is a local tractor store that has been in business for decades that I usually try first (support local). Then I go to the Tractor Supply near me. Sometimes they have things like the 3-point arms, top link, sway bars. They even have distributor caps, spark plugs, exhaust manifolds, and mufflers. But if I need something specific and want to trust the pros - I go to Just8Ns.com, or farmtractorrepair.com - Dan and Rachel Gingell’s site. They also have lots of great videos on their UA-cam channel - @DanGingell
Our Ford 641 Workmaster does have an overrun PTO clutch on it for the brush hog. I'm not 100% sure if it's necessary - but it is a good safety measure and I would think it helps to protect the PTO.
Man I sure lucked out and made the right choice! I just bought an old International Industrial 3414 from work and it was between the old 3414 and an 8N ford. it doesn’t have live PTO… Which was a bit of a let down. But It does have live Hydraulics as well as a completely separate pump for the power steering system! So I’m happy about that. One note… What you refer to as draft control is actually a position control. Draft control works in a different way and the best way to describe it is it’s like a Governor for your 3 pt depth. It’s really for doing dirt work. But I also have both position control and draft control. Excellent video on explaining how to brush hog with these older machines!
Great Video, I appreciate all the info. Purchased my tractor this year. I have a question, I understand the PTO has to be on to raise the arms. When I turn the tractor off...should my arms stay up? They come down almost immediately. Thanks!
Hello - sorry for the delayed response. I'm just getting caught up on comments. The arms should stay up for a short time, but will eventually drop over time. It depends on the weight on the arms (if there is something attached) and on the hydraulic system of your tractor - they wear over time. On our 8N - if there is a big load (firewood rack, brush hog) - it will drop after the tractor is shut off - maybe 1/2 inch every 5-10 minutes - until it's back down on the ground. With a lighter load (back blade) it may drop 1/2 inch every 10-20 minutes. If you have nothing on the arms and they are dropping almost immediately, there's probably a little more wear in your system. But my bigger question would be - when the tractor and PTO are on - does it maintain keeping the arms up? If so - I probably wouldn't worry much about it at this point.
Hello - great question. I never move that little lever. I don't do any ground engaging work with the tractor. It's in the up position, which you can see at about the 9:51 mark in the video. Thanks for watching! I hope this helps.
We have small incline on our property, and when I’m brush hogging, I give it more throttle to go up the small hill , and the tractor barely makes it up, and tries to stall. I’m new to tractors,and just bought this 8N, so don’t know hardly anything about it. Cleaned out the glass fuel bowl, and the fuel filter on the other side looks clear. Carburetor looks new. There is a blade screwdriver adjustment screw on the side of the carburetor,and a finger adjustment screw on the front. Should I turn the finger adjustment screw to the right or left, or just leave it alone?
I have a few questions. What size is the brush hog? When going up a hill and cutting large brush, I usually only cut 1/2 the width of our 5' brush hog at a time. It's just too much load on the engine otherwise. But - you should notice that the governor (if operating properly) will automatically increase the throttle when under load to keep the machine running without stalling out. On our 8N, we've had no issues where we needed to adjust the carb - so I'm not sure about that. But I do have this video about starting from scratch on our Ford Workmaster 641 tractor. I've got several videos brush hogging with both tractors. I will say that the 8N we're very careful with - because it does overheat quickly when brush hogging. That's quite a load on the machine. I hope this helps! Here's that video about the carb adjustment: ua-cam.com/video/RMENfUzyvlg/v-deo.html
@@PurpleCollarLife That was 1 of the very 1st items we put in our 8n`s engine was a water temp gauge! Always wondered why Ford did not have a water temp. gauge. Flat head engines don`like getting hot! Valve warping is a real possibility. Our brush hog is also only 5` wide as well.
Amazing video! I just inherited my grandpas tractor. Can this tutorial be applied to a Ford 600 Tractor? It also has a brush hog with it. We have a path with some saplings grown up. What would be the largest to safely brush hog? Thanks!
Congrats! I always like it when tractors stay in the family and pass down generations. Much of what is in the video applies to the Ford 600 also. We have a Ford Workmaster tractor (641) that would also be like your 600. You'll find several videos about the Ford 641 on our channel also. Here's that playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLJy7cj0ut2cBMlMwvY3IMs5TY27N99OGr.html Here's the 8N playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLJy7cj0ut2cBWTStoVA1G_lfQ8hnhUtLu.html As far as size of saplings that can be cut down/mowed with the brush hog, it really will just take some trial on your part to determine. I typically use 1-2 inches as a maximum. I know some people cut down thicker stuff, but I like to protect the PTO, brush hog, and tractor when possible. If it's bigger than that, I'd rather cut it off low with a chainsaw than risk breaking the tractor equipment. I hope this helps! Enjoy those playlists - and your new tractor!!
@@PurpleCollarLife thank you!! Yes, I’m happy that we can keep it in the family. It needs a little TLC but we’ll get it there. Thank you for sharing the links, I’ll check them out. I appreciate the quick response and information!
I've had my 8n for almost 40 years, use every summer and fall for field mowing and keeping the multiflower rose in check...my only complaint is the reverse gear is way too fast and I'm sure others feel the same..
When brush hogging with my 8N, occasionally the PTO lever will slip out of position thereby cutting power to the brush hog. It's not necessarily a result of hitting anything as it can happen in straight smooth sections. Any idea as to what could be causing this to happen?
I occasionally use one that i can't seem to find 1st on and with the terrain I really need 1st (slow and smooth) it's really rough and another issue is the brush hog 3pt wants to float all the way up if I don't keep my hand on the lever
The sister to this tractor (also always on the homestead) has a rotary cutter actually with the Bush Hog brand name on it. I always called that one a bush hog, but all the other brands a brush hog. :) Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
I done some brush hogging yesterday thought I tore the front end of my Ford 3000 diesel tractor I ran over a pretty good size sapling it put a big dent in the front of my tractor don't have a gard on my tractor
Nice video abot the PTO operation on the ford N series tractors... If one isnt already familier with their tractor, they shouldnt have ANY type of powered impliment hooked up to it.... personally, I dont feel a tractor tutorial is necessary in a vid for attachments/impliments for any given tractor, except when it pertains directly to the connection and/or operation of the impliment, and the basic PTO operation on the early tractors nearly always needs explaining to those that havent ever seen the pto shaft on their tractor spin..... but checking oils, gauges, fuel, seat position, mirrors ect, and learning the location of the tractor clutch is in the way of enjoying your video thats titled HOW TO BRUSH HOG.
4:33 that's not the draft control. It's the hydraulic lift control. Draft is a function of the lift controlled by a separate, smaller lever under the seat.
Whats the going price on one that's up & running, usable? I'm sure it's different depending on where you are, locally there is a fellow who has 5 of these sitting outside his house
Good question. It definitely depends on where you are, and what condition they're in. While the repainted ones are pretty - the mechanically sound ones are worth the most. If you find one that is both good looking and good running - they should demand the highest prices. I usually see them in the $2,000 - 5,000 around here. It's also nice if you can find one that has some implements with it - like the brush hog, or a back blade, or 3-point finish mower, auger, etc.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "adjustment of the tire". Can you let me know what you mean? Leveling the blade we talk about in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Jt4bwsF92bs/v-deo.html
Well I was referring to the back wheel it has adjusters on it at least the one I have the problem I'm having is one side of the mower digs into the dirt even when I try to level it
Additional thing to note about the overrunning clutch. They obviously space out the shaft on the tractor. This can cause issues with shaft geometry on some implements. The finish mower we have on our 8n would have only had about a 8” PTO shaft given how the gear box on the mower mounted. We had a custom shaft made that has the overrunning clutch built into the PTO coupler on the mower. Made the whole shaft about double the length which allowed the mower to raise and lower some. Before with it so short if the height of the mower changed at all it would pull apart. B
@@PurpleCollarLife i figured it out. Set the big lever and use the small one for up and down. Which way you set it depends on if you need high limit or low limit.
Thanks for watching! That small lever under the right of the seat (only on 8N tractors) is for a draft control - used mostly for using a bottom plow. I've never used it on ours. I think it's designed to allow the arms to "float" when plowing, so that if it starts to dig in too deep, or hits a rock or bump, it can raise up a little, and then return. I've read about some people trying to use it-figure it out. It looks like it's for ground-engaging equipment.
I got my first Ford 8n. The only issue I have is when I have the brush hog up and start driving around it comes down immediately after I start driving am I doing something wrong?
When you lift the brush hog to move, are you then turning off the PTO for transporting to another location? With the age of these machines - sometimes they don't have the ability to maintain holding the weight up without the PTO engaged. Another thing that I've seen is that sometimes if you put the 3 point lift lever all the way up - it will let the implement fall back down. Try putting it at about the 3/4 point and see if it maintains lifting the brush hog off the ground at that level.
Thats the lever that is on the right hand side correct. Still new to this. I have it on my trailer and I lift it up to take it down and when I move it that’s when it lowers
@@gera75217 I think it sounds like you're doing it correct. Here's another few videos we made that might help you out with operation and understanding of your 8N. How to start and operate: ua-cam.com/video/PDl2YH4IyyU/v-deo.html How to fix your driveway with an 8N: ua-cam.com/video/Jt4bwsF92bs/v-deo.html Maybe the best tractor ever: ua-cam.com/video/Y8LcQbfueSY/v-deo.html What to look for in an old tractor: ua-cam.com/video/uKO_2ThkQfs/v-deo.html
Only, hopefully helpful, comment I would make is when greasing, carry a shop rag with you and pre-clean the zerks of grass and dirt before pressing in your grease with the gun, otherwise you are injecting that crud into bearing surfaces. It is probably not as significant as not bothering to grease at all, but still. Meaning it would be better to have some grease with a little grit in it than none at all, but I prefer to clean the fittings and ensure good clean grease is going into the bearing surfaces.
Hello, I just bought a few king kutter products but I don’t know if the top link is hooked up right to my Ford 9N tractor. The piece the connects from the tractor to the top link doesn’t seem right because it pivots up and down. We took that piece out and now have the top link hooked up to the side with a pin through which doesn’t seem right either. Any help would be appreciated
I’m not exactly sure what you mean here. The top link should go between the top connection of the implement, and the top attachment point on the 3-point hitch of the 9N. That top attachment on the 3 point hitch will have a large “spring” attached between it and under the seat of the tractor. Some of these 9N/2N/8N machines had a “multi-level” attachment section here - with 3-4 holes for the pin to go through, allowing the top link to be higher or lower depending on the attachment needs. I’m not familiar with any place on the “side” that would attach to the top link. If you want to email me a picture - that might help me see what you have going on.
I am not sure about that. Our 8N is pretty sure footed on basic hills and grades that we have here in northwest PA. I haven't ever used it anywhere else.
Why do you have it in draft mode? It should be in position control mode unless you are plowing. Or is that one of those tractors that does not have position control mode?
The Ford 8N has both draft and position control with that little lever below the seat. I haven't touched it - because my great Uncle (the original owner) said not to adjust that lever for the work we do. If we were ever running a bottom plow, I think we'd need to move it then, right?
@@PurpleCollarLife ua-cam.com/video/8a-jLedQJhk/v-deo.html Dad bought one like just for the PTO to free up the rest of our tractors for the farm, me as a 13 year old boy trying to start the tractor and I did start it like that
Some people call them bush hogs. Some people call them brush hogs. Some people call them rotary cutters. I've never heard them called a rotary shredder - but that's another possibility. Thanks for watching!
even when the mower is in the grass, the momentum of the large wheel and blades will push the tractor forward a short distance. (Unless you use an overrunning clutch like I suggest)
@@PurpleCollarLife The large wheel is called a stump jumper Most mowers have a big bar that holds the blades I had a 3 blade grooming mower blades wetter only 20" long and when you stoped every thing stoped because of the drag from the belt and the grass
Excellent point! I know some people don't check those gear boxes for 5, 10, 15 years (or longer)! I probably don't drain and refill the gear box as often as I should - but I do at least check and make sure it's still topped off (and not full of water).
I usually brush hog in 1st gear along the edge of the woods or in a field - that's a good speed for me. There's really no way to slow down the speed - because 1st gear is the lowest. And decreasing the throttle will slow you down - but it will also slow down the PTO.
@@PurpleCollarLife Yeah I figured that would happen. There area Im trying to bush hog is pretty bumpy so its a bit rough when moving to fast. Thanks for the response :)
Check out our "How to start and operate" Ford 9N, 2N, and 8N video here. The process with a Ford Jubilee, NAA, 600 series is similar. ua-cam.com/video/PDl2YH4IyyU/v-deo.html
most indestructible machine ever built
They certainly have been workhorses for many decades. Thanks for leaving a comment!
Can't thank you enough for the Ford 8N videos. We acquired a nicely restored 8N when we bought our property. I haven't driven a tractor since I was 16, an old IH belonging to my grandpa, and I know very little. You are helping me correct that so we can take care of the Ford and our land.
Our pleasure! Great to hear that these videos are helpful! How much property do you have? You're going to love using that tractor!
@@PurpleCollarLife we have about 26 acres. Mostly woods at this time. Overgrown paths, a pond that needs dam repair and cleaning out. 😬
I have all the n tractors got hold of 53 golden jubile what a difference live hydrolics & howard tiller gear make brush hoging excellent video cheers 🥂 😊
Very nice! I've never owned a Golden Jubilee - but that would be a nice addition to our 8N and Workmaster 641. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
@@PurpleCollarLife I will tell u about it what a dream running brush hog jubile is naa will be in touch found jubile by accident cheers 🥂 guys
I am 67 got my first tractor 8n last month. This video was very helpful thank you.
Glad it was helpful! And so exciting that you got your first tractor. They're such useful tools, with amazing history. These 8Ns will always stop me and make me want to watch whatever they're being used for.
Many times when having to move any mower I will disconnect the PTO shaft. That way I can still raise & lower the implement without having any moving parts like mower blades or tiller blades spinning. The PTO shaft clutch is very important to any of these non-live PTO tractors to have! I have a John Deere finishing mower & a King Cutter brush hog mower for the 20 acre small Thoroughbred farm we operate. Wish it only took a couple of hours to mow main field! Usually takes at least 12 to 16 hours over the course of a few days & about 12 gallons of gas. You provide very good tips to novice tractor operators.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! We appreciate it. That’s a good point about disconnecting the PTO while moving around. Yes - that overrunning clutch is a key component to add if it’s not already there.
12-16 hours! Wow - that’s a lot of seat time. At least it’s enjoyable work. :)
@@PurpleCollarLife It depends on how hot or cold it is & if there is a wind or not or if it begins raining as to how enjoyable it is. Actually prefer working with our Thoroughbreds who are very curious & always watching us while working on the equipment.
So glad I found your channel. I'm getting my first tractor at 50 years old and have been looking for the same Ford coincidentally. I've learned so much thank you.
Welcome aboard! Did you see our "How to start and operate a Ford 8N" video? ua-cam.com/video/PDl2YH4IyyU/v-deo.html
You're going to love having a tractor.
Thanks for producing this for us that don't know ANYTHING about these but was considering such for bush hogging
Glad it was helpful!
Those old ford tractors are really nice.I have an 861 power master and love it. Your video is clear and informative. Nicely done
Thank you for the compliment! We love these old Ford tractors and their long history of work.
That is a very well done video Chad. Thorough and detailed as you normally are.
Should be very helpful for People getting the hang of running these older tractors. It definitely take some more skill than the newer ones
Thanks, Brock! Hopefully this helps out someone who is new to these old classic tractors.
Thank brother I am never used it before I am looking to buy one to mower my property your vdo very helpful
Thanks! We always hope the videos are helpful. Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment. We appreciate it.
I'm a beginner and your videos are really good, you explain things great, thanks.
Great to hear!
My fiancee and I were just given an 8n of her grandfathers that passed away last year, was completely rebuilt before he got sick with only an hour of run time, been holding out on buying one and it paid off, cannot wait to get out in the fields with it. thanks for all the info.
You’re going to love it! They’re the perfect tool to make work fun. :)
I know how to bush hog I just love watching these videos
Thanks for watching! I'm like you - I enjoy watching videos of brush hogging also. It's just so satisfying. :) Thank you for leaving a comment - every single comment and click of the like button helps our channel be promoted to larger audiences.
Thanks for all the great videos! Love the history of the tractor, I just bought a 1950 8N from the livestock auction, needs a bit of work but it came with a spare engine (actually the original engine off of it, someone at some point swapped it with a Ford stationary industrial engine with a magneto ignition) and a bunch of extra parts, guy traded some work for it and did a bunch of work to it but then had to sell it to pay medical bills :( so I picked it up from the auction for cheap and dragged it home, finally got all the little parts it needed and going to hopefully get it running this weekend!
Thanks for watching and sharing your story! Keep us posted on the progress with your 8N. They're great finds. And it's always fun to see one at an auction!
💥 Those old ford N series tractor just keep going and going! Nice to see you putting it to work.
*Keep on tractoring!*
Thanks 👍 There's something about tractor seat time. But these classic tractors bring about that joy plus the thoughts of the decades of work they've done. It's fun and nostalgic at the same time.
I remember my Dad buying the same Woods mower mower new for $500 in 1975 lol
They're popular. I see a surprising number of the same Woods mower on tons of old tractors.
I was always told it is best to run the ford 8N everyday. Also if the tractor could drive over saplings the brush cutter would cut them. Great video nice tractor!
Great point!
This was a great video! I bought my first tractor last weekend and it is a Ford 8N. I wish I would have saw this video before I brush hogged my fields the other day but I got through it, lol. I learned a lot of great tips watching this so thank you very much! I'm also in North West Pennsylvania!!
Hello! Congratulations on your new Ford 8N. :) You're going to love having the tractor. They are hard working and reliable (in our experience). We're glad you enjoyed the video. We've got quite a few videos with the Ford 8N. They should be in this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLJy7cj0ut2cBWTStoVA1G_lfQ8hnhUtLu.html
Just bought mine today. You’re definitely helping me learn. 😊
I hope you're enjoying it! Glad you are finding our videos useful.
Thanks, looks great! I have jubilee. Just starting out. Good job!
Thanks for watching and leaving us a comment! We love these old Ford tractors. That 8N has been in the family since new. And I recently added a Workmaster 641 to the fleet.
Super helpful! Thanks for posting. :)
Glad it was helpful!
Thank You for the information
Glad it was helpful!
I've never operated an N before, but I have operated it's bigger brother the Workmaster and it is just such a reliable little tractor, use it for mowing with a little pto belt mower on the back
We love our Workmaster 641! It's on our channel too.
Thanks so much for your videos. You provide great details. We have a Golden Jubilee that we'll be trying to get running in November and most of what you talk about applies to those tractors too. Thanks again.
Glad to help! The Jubilee is very similar to the 8N. Keep us posted!
That's a very nice example of the Ford 8N. I like the red and white, makes it really stand out! My grandfather, father and I all shared ownership of a 1949 Ferguson TO20, very similar to the Fords and it looked and operated in nearly the exact same way. The only difference was the entire hood had to be raised to access the gas tank and radiator. I remember Bush hogging with an old Woods very similar to yours, very reliable, always cut the grass and weeds very well. One problem was that when you had to stop and shift gears, the momentum of the spinning shaft would cause the gears to grind, you had to wait until the PTO stopped spinning to shift, which was annoying. I wish we had had a slip clutch, it probably would have alevienated that problem. Good memories for me! Thanks for sharing, Chad! 🙂
Thanks for watching! You're absolutely right about the momentum of the rotating shaft and changing gears. That overrunning clutch fixes that issue. My first tractor (the Ford 2N) didn't have the overrunning clutch, and I had trouble stopping when I needed to, and switching gears. It was a lesson in patience waiting on that PTO shaft to totally stop movement before trying to change gears. I would think the 1949 TO20 would be nearly identical to the early 8N we have. Great machines for sure.
Hey man, great video! Very informative! Thank you 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it!
You're a saint, thanks much sir.
Glad to help! We like hearing that our videos are helpful or entertaining. Thank you for leaving a comment.
When using a pto driven a attachment with a Ford n series tractor, many people will leave the pto shaft unattached until they are in position and ready to use it. For example, while driving to the location or when doing the initial lift to make sure no critters have made a home under it.
Great idea! I never thought of not connecting that PTO shaft until you have the cutter moved.
@@PurpleCollarLife I Didn't think of it either. I saw it on another UA-camrs video. I cannot remember who it was.
The ONE thing I see people who own these things forget is that these engines were designed for LEADED fuel. So you MUST use a lead substitute. I use a product from Motor Medic, that you can get from Walmart or anywhere for about 5-8 bucks a bottle. If you DONT use this, severe engine damage can/will occure. Fortunately, the parts are readily available, but it would require an engine overhaul. So always remember to have this stuff added to your fuel
This is a great point! We do add some lead substitute additive in these old tractors. Here's what we use: ua-cam.com/video/5BrCSirsR-A/v-deo.html
Not true. They have hardened valve seats
The valves are the only reason for lead substitute a full overhaul not needed on a flathead
Always wanted one of these. I don't need it but i want one.
Once you get one - you'll wonder why you waited! :)
The draft lever is actually the 3 inch long lever near the Touch Control lever. You are using the 'Touch Control Lever' to lift the 3 point hitch. We usually just called it the 3 point lift.....Enjoy your videos, We had 4 8Ns that were worked hard in the hay fields.
Thanks! I sometimes mistake (my brain goes faster, or maybe slower, than my mouth in these videos sometimes). I’ve heard that the small lever is to move from “draft control” to “position control”, and that determines whether the big lever (3 point control) is in draft or position mode. It’s very confusing - I try to keep the little lever where it’s at because the big lever does what I want it to do right now. :)
We’re your 8Ns a mix of the older and newer ones (front distributor and side distributor)? Or were they all the same generation?
Thank you for watching!
Great video as usual Chad. Looking hard at a 8n in my area! Thanks for the info! -Brad
Hi Brad - Any time! We love these old Ford tractors. You're going to love having one.
Good video. I didn’t realize pto had to be engaged to lift 3 point hitch, I only thought clutch had to be out. I wonder if that varied year to year, model by model? A couple notes:
I think the 3 point hitch lever is “position control”. “Draft control” typically refers to a secondary, more sophisticated addition to the 3 point hitch control system for ground engaging attachments (plows) that “automatically” raises (and lowers) the 3pth and plow when the load gets too much. Basically it adjusts 3pth height to maintain a steady pull force.
Remember, if you add a overrun clutch on the PTO spindle, you’ve shortened the length the PTO shaft MUST still be able to telescope to. Cutting the shaft may be required. Otherwise, if it “bottoms out”, mower can’t lower and the PTO shaft will be supporting the full weight of the mower on the tractor’s rear PTO spindle bearing and rear end casing. That may be fatal to the tractor.
When backing into an overgrown area I always have the mower as high as possible. I’d rather lower the mower onto a hidden object and ding the blades than back the mower into the obstacle and fold the mower’s sides into the blades. That gets real noisy! Been there done that too many times.
Hi Cody - yes, the PTO does have to be engaged to lift the 3 point on these old Ford tractors (9N, 2N, 8N). The Jubilee/NAA were the first Ford tractors to have hydraulic lift without the PTO engaged.
You're right - the lever function for the 3 point hitch I should have referred to as Position Control. That's how I'm using it. But it can be called Position Control or Draft Control, depending on how you have the little lever under the seat set. Ask Tractor Mike does a great job explaining the difference on a newer tractor here: ua-cam.com/video/7jwcwLWGXWI/v-deo.html
Yes - another great point about the overrunning coupler. We did have to shorten the PTO telescoping shaft to enable the mower to raise and lower fully without putting undue strain on the telescoping PTO shaft of the brush hog.
Another great point about lowering the brush hog onto an area rather than backing into it. It's exactly these type of knowledgeable comments that will help others as they read through the comments in our video. Thanks again, Cody!
I learned how to drive stick on an old ford tractor. Not sure what model but it was very similar.
I can't tell you how many times I hear that from people. I can't quite remember if I learned first on a tractor, or on Dad's old Ford Ranger (5 speed) picking up bales of hay in the hayfield.
Excellant video my friend! Very well done, I learned a lot! Biggest issue I have is the speed at which to run as in my pasture(s) I have to make many turns & without power steering, no Sherman gear reducer I hate to ride the clutch!!!
I too have a path deep into the woods I have to clear & you give me the confidence to make an attempt at it...I just am curious, I have a lot of overgrown Montathorora rose bushes on the outside of the fenceline, is it best to lift the hog & back in & out of it while continuosly lowering the hog to get it down to a manageable level? I figured with your 20 years with an 8N, you'd know! Thanks SO MUCH! btw, this is my first 8N on my small horse farm. All the best to ya!
Kokomo in western PA
Thanks for the comment and question! And congratulations on your new Ford 8N. You'll find it is an amazing and very reliable tool for use as a property owner.
As far as how to handle those overbrown bushes - it really depends on how thick the stems are. You might be able to back right over them and cut them off. Or - you could do like you suggest and leave the brush hog up, and lower it down on top a little at a time. I've done both - it takes a little trial and error to learn what methods work best in what situations.
Watch for fawns in the high grass this time of year. They get scared and won't move out of the way. I always walk the path/area first to look for them. Enjoy that tractor!
Your operations video set me on the right track from day 1 only 6 weeks ago and I use my tractor 2-3 times a week now. Come this spring, I would like to add a finish mower for our lawn. It only about 2 acres but my lawn mower garden tractor is on it’s last legs and I’d rather buy a used implement than a new riding mower. What is the smallest type of pto mower available for the 8N….used. Thanks, great stuff that you present
That is awesome! We have a 5' finish mower (King Kutter brand) that we use behind our 8N. It works great!
Thanks
No problem! Thank you for watching and leaving a comment.
Did I miss your mention of checking the mower gearbox lube?
I forgot that. That's a great addition.
The one drawback of the N-series is the lack of live hydraulics/pto. However, their simplicity and reliability are the tradeoff. These machines are 70+ years old yet will give you decades more reliable work.
That's true. The live hydraulics on our 1957 Ford Workmaster is certainly a nice benefit. But - you're right - all of these old tractors will likely last ANOTHER 75 years. :)
around 7:30 your off and behind the tractor with it raised. how did you get the tail wheels to stick up? my pto shaft hits the frame of the brush hog when the draft lever is fully raised. mine is a 1951 and I have 3 holes for the top link. it's in the bottom hole. I'm using a category 1 top link and I've adjusted it with no change. any ideas?
Good evening Sir, OUTSTANDING informative video my friend and keep up your OUTSTANDING WORK and stay away from potatoes peeling duties 🤣😏👌👍😉 Cheers 🍻
Thanks, you too!
@@PurpleCollarLife Well I no longer eat potatoes, not because I was a bad boy, but I have to melt a 30 pounds before Christmas, I'm trying hard to be a better sell value for myself so perhaps, maybe I can attract better looking Women's 🤣😇👌👍🍻
Cut a piece of window screen to fit over the front of the radiator. Keeps bugs and seeds out.
That's a great tip! We actually have a section of screen in front of the radiator to keep it clean on the Workmaster 641. You probably can see it in some of our other brush hog videos when we use the 641.
Great video, I'm rebuilding a Ford Powermaster that I've never ran.
That's awesome! Keep us posted. Which model is it? Any idea what year?
@@PurpleCollarLife It's badged a Powermaster, has a diesel engine and is stamped 641.
This video was very helpful! I am beginner with this tractor. I just found out about the position control and draft mode. Problem I am having is in draft mode it digs into the ground. When I put it in position control the lever needs to be 3/4 of the way down or when I engage to go it rises back up. It won’t go down any further when the lever is pushed past 3/4. Any thoughts or do you have a video showing the full explanation of the position control lever?
Recently purchased a 9n, so far runs great! Learning much from your videos. Do recommend a parts dealer for these tractors, would like to purchase the sway bars that you recommend. Thanks!
Congrats on the Ford 9N tractor! You’re going to wonder what you ever did without it. As far as a parts dealer - I have used a few. There is a local tractor store that has been in business for decades that I usually try first (support local). Then I go to the Tractor Supply near me. Sometimes they have things like the 3-point arms, top link, sway bars. They even have distributor caps, spark plugs, exhaust manifolds, and mufflers. But if I need something specific and want to trust the pros - I go to Just8Ns.com, or farmtractorrepair.com - Dan and Rachel Gingell’s site. They also have lots of great videos on their UA-cam channel - @DanGingell
Great video! Do you know if an overrun PTO is needed for the Ford 640 as well?
Our Ford 641 Workmaster does have an overrun PTO clutch on it for the brush hog. I'm not 100% sure if it's necessary - but it is a good safety measure and I would think it helps to protect the PTO.
Man I sure lucked out and made the right choice! I just bought an old International Industrial 3414 from work and it was between the old 3414 and an 8N ford. it doesn’t have live PTO… Which was a bit of a let down. But It does have live Hydraulics as well as a completely separate pump for the power steering system! So I’m happy about that.
One note… What you refer to as draft control is actually a position control. Draft control works in a different way and the best way to describe it is it’s like a Governor for your 3 pt depth. It’s really for doing dirt work. But I also have both position control and draft control.
Excellent video on explaining how to brush hog with these older machines!
Thanks for watching! Good catch and correction on the draft control vs position control.
thanks for the tips!
Glad they were helpful!
Great Video, I appreciate all the info. Purchased my tractor this year. I have a question, I understand the PTO has to be on to raise the arms. When I turn the tractor off...should my arms stay up? They come down almost immediately. Thanks!
Hello - sorry for the delayed response. I'm just getting caught up on comments. The arms should stay up for a short time, but will eventually drop over time. It depends on the weight on the arms (if there is something attached) and on the hydraulic system of your tractor - they wear over time. On our 8N - if there is a big load (firewood rack, brush hog) - it will drop after the tractor is shut off - maybe 1/2 inch every 5-10 minutes - until it's back down on the ground. With a lighter load (back blade) it may drop 1/2 inch every 10-20 minutes.
If you have nothing on the arms and they are dropping almost immediately, there's probably a little more wear in your system. But my bigger question would be - when the tractor and PTO are on - does it maintain keeping the arms up? If so - I probably wouldn't worry much about it at this point.
What position do you have the little lever under the seat in when you are mowing?
Hello - great question. I never move that little lever. I don't do any ground engaging work with the tractor. It's in the up position, which you can see at about the 9:51 mark in the video. Thanks for watching! I hope this helps.
We have small incline on our property, and when I’m brush hogging, I give it more throttle to go up the small hill , and the tractor barely makes it up, and tries to stall. I’m new to tractors,and just bought this 8N, so don’t know hardly anything about it. Cleaned out the glass fuel bowl, and the fuel filter on the other side looks clear. Carburetor looks new. There is a blade screwdriver adjustment screw on the side of the carburetor,and a finger adjustment screw on the front.
Should I turn the finger adjustment screw to the right or left, or just leave it alone?
I have a few questions. What size is the brush hog? When going up a hill and cutting large brush, I usually only cut 1/2 the width of our 5' brush hog at a time. It's just too much load on the engine otherwise. But - you should notice that the governor (if operating properly) will automatically increase the throttle when under load to keep the machine running without stalling out.
On our 8N, we've had no issues where we needed to adjust the carb - so I'm not sure about that. But I do have this video about starting from scratch on our Ford Workmaster 641 tractor. I've got several videos brush hogging with both tractors. I will say that the 8N we're very careful with - because it does overheat quickly when brush hogging. That's quite a load on the machine.
I hope this helps!
Here's that video about the carb adjustment: ua-cam.com/video/RMENfUzyvlg/v-deo.html
@@PurpleCollarLife That was 1 of the very 1st items we put in our 8n`s engine was a water temp gauge! Always wondered why Ford did not have a water temp. gauge. Flat head engines don`like getting hot! Valve warping is a real possibility. Our brush hog is also only 5` wide as well.
Amazing video! I just inherited my grandpas tractor. Can this tutorial be applied to a Ford 600 Tractor? It also has a brush hog with it. We have a path with some saplings grown up. What would be the largest to safely brush hog? Thanks!
Congrats! I always like it when tractors stay in the family and pass down generations. Much of what is in the video applies to the Ford 600 also. We have a Ford Workmaster tractor (641) that would also be like your 600. You'll find several videos about the Ford 641 on our channel also. Here's that playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLJy7cj0ut2cBMlMwvY3IMs5TY27N99OGr.html
Here's the 8N playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLJy7cj0ut2cBWTStoVA1G_lfQ8hnhUtLu.html
As far as size of saplings that can be cut down/mowed with the brush hog, it really will just take some trial on your part to determine. I typically use 1-2 inches as a maximum. I know some people cut down thicker stuff, but I like to protect the PTO, brush hog, and tractor when possible. If it's bigger than that, I'd rather cut it off low with a chainsaw than risk breaking the tractor equipment.
I hope this helps! Enjoy those playlists - and your new tractor!!
@@PurpleCollarLife thank you!! Yes, I’m happy that we can keep it in the family. It needs a little TLC but we’ll get it there. Thank you for sharing the links, I’ll check them out. I appreciate the quick response and information!
I've had my 8n for almost 40 years, use every summer and fall for field mowing and keeping the multiflower rose in check...my only complaint is the reverse gear is way too fast and I'm sure others feel the same..
You're right about reverse. I notice the same thing on the Ford 641 Workmaster. But other than that - all these old Ford tractors are amazing!
When brush hogging with my 8N, occasionally the PTO lever will slip out of position thereby cutting power to the brush hog. It's not necessarily a result of hitting anything as it can happen in straight smooth sections. Any idea as to what could be causing this to happen?
That's a great question. I'm not familiar with that issue. But hopefully someone who watches the video can help and respond to your question.
I occasionally use one that i can't seem to find 1st on and with the terrain I really need 1st (slow and smooth) it's really rough and another issue is the brush hog 3pt wants to float all the way up if I don't keep my hand on the lever
Never heard anyone call them a brush hog around here. We had a bush hog and that's the term I always heard back in the day.
The sister to this tractor (also always on the homestead) has a rotary cutter actually with the Bush Hog brand name on it. I always called that one a bush hog, but all the other brands a brush hog. :) Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
I done some brush hogging yesterday thought I tore the front end of my Ford 3000 diesel tractor I ran over a pretty good size sapling it put a big dent in the front of my tractor don't have a gard on my tractor
You should look for once of those bumpers/guards. They really do a nice job protecting the front end. Thanks for watching!
Nice video abot the PTO operation on the ford N series tractors... If one isnt already familier with their tractor, they shouldnt have ANY type of powered impliment hooked up to it.... personally, I dont feel a tractor tutorial is necessary in a vid for attachments/impliments for any given tractor, except when it pertains directly to the connection and/or operation of the impliment, and the basic PTO operation on the early tractors nearly always needs explaining to those that havent ever seen the pto shaft on their tractor spin..... but checking oils, gauges, fuel, seat position, mirrors ect, and learning the location of the tractor clutch is in the way of enjoying your video thats titled HOW TO BRUSH HOG.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
4:33 that's not the draft control. It's the hydraulic lift control. Draft is a function of the lift controlled by a separate, smaller lever under the seat.
6:55 you again called the lift control "the draft lever"
12:03 again, that's not the "draft control"
bravo petit gris
These are great little tractors. They’ve done a lot of work over the last 70+ years!
I'm wondering if it would be possible to use a woodland Mills stump grinder on a 8n?
I think that would be pretty tough on it. But I've never researched it.
Since these tractors didn't have a tachometer until the early 1950's, how do you know what RPM your engine is running at to achieve 540 PTO?
You really don't. I always just go by sound. On our 8N, it's not quite full throttle.
@@PurpleCollarLife What engine speed does it top out at?
Second screw on the throttle plate. IOW, almost wide open.
Whats the going price on one that's up & running, usable? I'm sure it's different depending on where you are, locally there is a fellow who has 5 of these sitting outside his house
Good question. It definitely depends on where you are, and what condition they're in. While the repainted ones are pretty - the mechanically sound ones are worth the most. If you find one that is both good looking and good running - they should demand the highest prices. I usually see them in the $2,000 - 5,000 around here. It's also nice if you can find one that has some implements with it - like the brush hog, or a back blade, or 3-point finish mower, auger, etc.
Where in NW Pa. do you live? I’m in Erie!
We’re south of Meadville. :) Thanks for watching from Erie.
How about adjustment of the tire. And leveling the blade
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "adjustment of the tire". Can you let me know what you mean? Leveling the blade we talk about in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Jt4bwsF92bs/v-deo.html
Well I was referring to the back wheel it has adjusters on it at least the one I have the problem I'm having is one side of the mower digs into the dirt even when I try to level it
Additional thing to note about the overrunning clutch. They obviously space out the shaft on the tractor. This can cause issues with shaft geometry on some implements.
The finish mower we have on our 8n would have only had about a 8” PTO shaft given how the gear box on the mower mounted. We had a custom shaft made that has the overrunning clutch built into the PTO coupler on the mower. Made the whole shaft about double the length which allowed the mower to raise and lower some.
Before with it so short if the height of the mower changed at all it would pull apart.
B
Great points! We had to shorten the shaft on our 3-point finish mower to properly connect to the 8N without binding up the PTO.
How do you set the draft position on the little lever under the seat though??
We don’t use that lever ever. We set it and forget it.
@@PurpleCollarLife i figured it out. Set the big lever and use the small one for up and down. Which way you set it depends on if you need high limit or low limit.
Can you tell me the purpose on the small lever on the right side under the seat?
Thanks for watching! That small lever under the right of the seat (only on 8N tractors) is for a draft control - used mostly for using a bottom plow. I've never used it on ours. I think it's designed to allow the arms to "float" when plowing, so that if it starts to dig in too deep, or hits a rock or bump, it can raise up a little, and then return. I've read about some people trying to use it-figure it out. It looks like it's for ground-engaging equipment.
I got my first Ford 8n. The only issue I have is when I have the brush hog up and start driving around it comes down immediately after I start driving am I doing something wrong?
When you lift the brush hog to move, are you then turning off the PTO for transporting to another location? With the age of these machines - sometimes they don't have the ability to maintain holding the weight up without the PTO engaged. Another thing that I've seen is that sometimes if you put the 3 point lift lever all the way up - it will let the implement fall back down. Try putting it at about the 3/4 point and see if it maintains lifting the brush hog off the ground at that level.
Thats the lever that is on the right hand side correct. Still new to this. I have it on my trailer and I lift it up to take it down and when I move it that’s when it lowers
@@gera75217 I think it sounds like you're doing it correct. Here's another few videos we made that might help you out with operation and understanding of your 8N.
How to start and operate: ua-cam.com/video/PDl2YH4IyyU/v-deo.html
How to fix your driveway with an 8N: ua-cam.com/video/Jt4bwsF92bs/v-deo.html
Maybe the best tractor ever: ua-cam.com/video/Y8LcQbfueSY/v-deo.html
What to look for in an old tractor: ua-cam.com/video/uKO_2ThkQfs/v-deo.html
Only, hopefully helpful, comment I would make is when greasing, carry a shop rag with you and pre-clean the zerks of grass and dirt before pressing in your grease with the gun, otherwise you are injecting that crud into bearing surfaces. It is probably not as significant as not bothering to grease at all, but still. Meaning it would be better to have some grease with a little grit in it than none at all, but I prefer to clean the fittings and ensure good clean grease is going into the bearing surfaces.
Great tip! I hadn't thought about pushing that gunk INTO the zerk by not cleaning it off - but it makes sense. I'll wipe them off first from here on.
Hello, I just bought a few king kutter products but I don’t know if the top link is hooked up right to my Ford 9N tractor. The piece the connects from the tractor to the top link doesn’t seem right because it pivots up and down. We took that piece out and now have the top link hooked up to the side with a pin through which doesn’t seem right either. Any help would be appreciated
I’m not exactly sure what you mean here. The top link should go between the top connection of the implement, and the top attachment point on the 3-point hitch of the 9N. That top attachment on the 3 point hitch will have a large “spring” attached between it and under the seat of the tractor. Some of these 9N/2N/8N machines had a “multi-level” attachment section here - with 3-4 holes for the pin to go through, allowing the top link to be higher or lower depending on the attachment needs. I’m not familiar with any place on the “side” that would attach to the top link. If you want to email me a picture - that might help me see what you have going on.
7:18 no stump-jumper. Why?
I read somewhere that these are "tippy" tractors not good for hills is this true?
I am not sure about that. Our 8N is pretty sure footed on basic hills and grades that we have here in northwest PA. I haven't ever used it anywhere else.
You mean to Debris. sucked in on the engineside because the fan blows out
Ford 3600 pinte job videos plz upload
Thanks for watching! I don’t know much about the Ford 3600s.
And pulled out some logs out of the power line that's been laying on the ground for a few years
Sounds fun!
Why do you have it in draft mode?
It should be in position control mode unless you are plowing.
Or is that one of those tractors that does not have position control mode?
The Ford 8N has both draft and position control with that little lever below the seat. I haven't touched it - because my great Uncle (the original owner) said not to adjust that lever for the work we do. If we were ever running a bottom plow, I think we'd need to move it then, right?
Great video, now try a John Deere with a hand clutch
Hi Larry- I've never tried the hand clutch. How does that work?
@@PurpleCollarLife
ua-cam.com/video/8a-jLedQJhk/v-deo.html
Dad bought one like just for the PTO to free up the rest of our tractors for the farm, me as a 13 year old boy trying to start the tractor and I did start it like that
Aôoooo caboclo 🤠 bão
Thank you for watching!
It's a rotory shredder.
Some people call them bush hogs. Some people call them brush hogs. Some people call them rotary cutters. I've never heard them called a rotary shredder - but that's another possibility. Thanks for watching!
It won't if you have the mower down in the grass when you step on the clutch
But it is safer with a clutch
even when the mower is in the grass, the momentum of the large wheel and blades will push the tractor forward a short distance. (Unless you use an overrunning clutch like I suggest)
@@PurpleCollarLife
The large wheel is called a stump jumper
Most mowers have a big bar that holds the blades
I had a 3 blade grooming mower blades wetter only 20" long and when you stoped every thing stoped because of the drag from the belt and the grass
You better have a slip clutch
We call that an overrunning clutch. We talk about it in this video.
Hopefully you don’t have a skunk living under that brush hog when the PTO is engaged 😂
That would certainly ruin my day. :)
I’ve got a Jubilee, she ain’t pretty but she’ll run all day long.
I don't know if you've seen our Workmaster video yet, but we just added to our old Ford tractor collection! We like them all. Great old machines.
its not a bush hog
We used a Bush Hog brand on the other 8N on the farm for decades. This one is a Woods brush hog (rotary cutter). Thanks for watching!
While you're lubing the tractor, dont forget to check the fluid level in the gear box on your bush hog.
Excellent point! I know some people don't check those gear boxes for 5, 10, 15 years (or longer)! I probably don't drain and refill the gear box as often as I should - but I do at least check and make sure it's still topped off (and not full of water).
Ur just mowing high grass. U ain't bushhogging
Thanks for watching!
A friend of mine has a 54 Jubilee. It moves pretty fast in 1st gear while bush hogging and was wondering how to go about slowing it down a bit?
I usually brush hog in 1st gear along the edge of the woods or in a field - that's a good speed for me.
There's really no way to slow down the speed - because 1st gear is the lowest. And decreasing the throttle will slow you down - but it will also slow down the PTO.
@@PurpleCollarLife Yeah I figured that would happen. There area Im trying to bush hog is pretty bumpy so its a bit rough when moving to fast. Thanks for the response :)