I want to thank you for doing this video.... When I first got my 2006 Dodge sprinter 2500 it was going into limp mode... replaced the turbo/actuator with used one (couldn't get an actuator by its self)... the actuator arm was rusted in place. My sprinter ran for several years then started the limp mode again. Turbo would kick in when I start it but very soon after I get no boost (Just as he described) because the actuator arm stopped moving I, again suspected the actuator since I bought it used. Bought a new actuator and paid for it to be installed... it did not solve the problem... remembering that it could be the resonator could be the issue... I ordered then replaced it ($50 Orely's or and eliminator for $20 on Ebay or Amazon)... When I checked the old one it had a split in the seal. Once I replaced it I got my Turbo back. You were right on target with the issues and how to fix them.... Thank very much.
This is a long read but a DIRE WARNING that could be POTENTIALLY LIFE THREATENING!!!! Don't mess around with this turbos with wastegate problems or leaking center cartridge oil seals on these original T1N Sprinters with the mechanical wastegates. As of just past midnight of this AM, our beloved 2003 T1N erupted into flames and is no longer of this world. 150 miles prior, I got the imp home mode with the decreased boost and increased IAT that was indicative of the OEM IAT sensor oil fouling read error. This happened several years ago, which the sensor was replaced with the updated part. I pulled over saw, smell, and heard nothing abnormal. The scan tool showed no errors. After the ubiquitous reboot (turn off, wait a bit, start back up) gave a normal performance response, I was back on the road. The only indicator that something was a bit off was that the ECTs were about 10F higher than normal, but well within the acceptable range. Drove about a half mile and it started again. Eased her to a safe spot off the highway a couple of miles at the next off ramp (no emergency lane). Again, nothing out of the ordinary engine wise, except for, a slightly elevated ECT. This time, however, my turn signals/hazards were not working. All fusing was good and I could hear the relay behind the dash at the steering column area click with the hazard switch and turn signal. This engine is mostly mechanically controlled, so when after resetting the fuses the signals began working again, I chalked it up to an unrelated electrical issue with electrical corrosion that comes from 16 year old ATC fuses. Back on the rode, everything seemed to go back to normal for about the next 100 miles with the IAT, ECT temps and the temperament of the engine. About that time, the ECT would fluctuate +5 to +10 for the average OAT which was running between 79-85F, and average of 83F. However, the IAT appeared to remain normal. I monitored closely with my Edge CTS scan gauge and all seemed well for the next 15-20 miles. When going up a slight rise for an overpass, the ECT temp rose up to 212F, which is about +20 from the normal average of 192F. I slowed a bit and the temp went back to the 203F mark. So I carefully progressed back up to my previous speed with no changes. Suddenly the ECT went to 224F. As I let off the throttle to slow down, the engine began to fluctuate erratically and I could hear mechanical vibrations coming from the turbo side of the engine compartment. At first, thick black smoke was coming out of the exhaust. Then it started coming from the right front fender. All the while, I was carefully braking and trying to safely maneuver the van/travel trailer onto the emergency lane which is skirted by a steep embankment down into a bayou canal (Louisiana). Just as I was about halfway onto the emergency lane, the red oil press light came on. I steadied the wheel expecting the motor to shut down. It did not, so I waited till I was straight before turning off the key. I have a nerve disability. Struggling with no power steering or accidentally locking the steering column, would have put us on the slope and into a disastrous roll-over. I pulled the hood release but did not open. Fluids pouring out all over the ground. Expecting a fire I grabbed my fire extinguisher and yelled, "Fire, everyone get out!" It was then that I could see the first flicker of light from a flame, so I emptied that little bottle in 3 seconds. Note: Those small bottles sold for campers and autos are COMPLETELY USELESS on any sort of engine fire. There is just not enough agent to make a dent. Had I a proper sized one, like you see on the walls in schools, hospitals and government buildings, I would have had a good chance at stopping this. In about two minutes, the engine compartment was engulfed and the van filled with thick smoke. She became a total loss. From what I observed, my experience and from my knowledge of such wastegate issues on the old WWII aircraft reciprocal engines turbo chargers, I have come to the following conclusion based on the evidence supported by the gauges and how this transpired. The vacuum/mechanical operated wastegate was sticking close, providing the turbine with near full exhaust gas flow. This was causing a partial turbine overspeed. The T1N has no provision for EGTs, that I am aware of. A scan tool and my Edge CTS never divulge that there is such a sensor, nor have I seen anything in my limited schematics. However, I did not audibly detect any turbo whine, which one might expect from an overspeed. The other conclusion is that exhaust had clogged from the turbine wheel shedding fins, thus raising the EGT. However, the turbo at idle was quiet and smooth, as well as, cruise and acceleration phases. What is for certain is that the EGT sharply raised and the turbine and center section disintegrated. It was the severed engine oil pressure feed to the center section that was spray engine oil directly upon the superheated exhaust/turbo manifold that cause and fed the fire. Even thought the engine was shut off before the fire, there was enough oil spray/flow to cause the rubber charge/discharge intake piping to ignite, which spread. Once the diesel lines were compromised, it was game over. Although my Sprinter was a 2003 model, Old Betsy only had 98,000 miles on her. Beyond the odd gremlins, the IAT sensor, the charge pipe failure, leaky EGR valve, blown HP fuel pump and the transmission rumble strip issue that most, if not all T1N owners have faced, Old Betsy was a beloved and cherished part of the Family. She will be deeply missed.
I am very sorry for your loss 😔 it sounds like a run away diesel problem, where a turbo seal starts leaking and sucking in all oil into the engine, causing your oil light to turn on, most of the time, you can kill the engine with ignition key, basically it will run till engine blows up, maybe you had a different problem but ether way it resulted in a loss of your sprinter, again I am sorry to hear about your loss, I wish you all the best, and thanks for sharing
Thanks for the videos! What sparked my interest: 2006 Sprinter, 2007 Winnebago View. We occasionally get a low/no boost condition. Stopping the engine and restarting it has "fixed" the problem, and it happens more often when either the vehicle's been parked for an extended time or idled for a longer than normal time (20-30mins). Again, stopping the engine and restarting it "fixes" the issue, but only for a few hours/days. The actuator was temporarily replaced but the issue was almost constant, so we put the original one back in. After the turn-off reset, we occasionally get a P0234 overboost code, also, but that settles out in short order. Ideas/opinions?
I have 2005 with 230K No check engine light no limp mode got new aluminum resonator delete 4new injectors (5th was replace by previous owner that I know) It seems to not have 100% of power that had before. It has RSN of course and I need to replace my shaft but that’s later on I drove my friends T1N and his seemed to run better feels like his turbo kicks on better compared to mine When I get to 3000 rpm I can feel lot of vibrations from engine almost like my engine wants to jump out Like I said no lights on dash and when driving slow it ok but whe accelerating more heavy it doesn’t pull quickly
Serg, thanks for the turbo tips. 2005 2500 w 240k. Turbo has been doing the “disappearing act” at times. Swapped out resonator for the aluminum straight tube. Was good for week or so. Will start looking close at the tubes and seals for leakage. Actuator seems to be moving up n down correctly.
I think they got ripped off too. To check the turbo, take the intake off and look for play in the shaft. Play is normal, but the if it contacts the aluminum housing, the bearings need replaced. Turbos use solid bronze bearings. Besides the fact, that a bad turbo usually causes oil to get dumbed into the combustion. Should produce smoke in the exhaust.
Garrett turbo Pressure usually from 0,3 to 20psi 25 max T1N sprinter have a vacuum actuator NCV3 have mechanic actuator Limp mode you can see by limited rpms up to 3000 and lost of power
Hey Serge. I used your instruction to clean th EGR on my 04. It was a huge help. I also began expediting. We'll see how that goes but I like it ok. Anyway Id like to ask you why the light behind the 3 climate control knobs have gone out at the same time the heater quit blowing hot air. I checked the fuses. They seem fine. Also my brights don't stay on when lever pushed forward but the brights work when lever pulled back.. Does any of that sound familiar? Thank you very much. Your videos are really great.
+Roger G yes all this sounds familiar, your high beams don’t work when pushed in but they do when you pull, this is caused by that electric pice witch windshield wipers and all, I have many videos on this, it’s easy to replace, then it will work, about the heater problem, I am dealing with same thing right now, but lights going out should not cause heat not to work, I am talking about the lights on the knobs for heating cooling and what not, mine some times were on and sometimes off, and heater was working bad then and still same thing now, I replaced the HVC electronics thing 3 times this year, every time it helped get the heat back, but after 2 weeks same old thing, just no heat on driver side only passenger, so for the heat I think I might just need to buy a new electric unit, but I think it’s electric problem somewhere
My original OEM Garett Turbo went on me on a very hot summer day , got another oem replacement and three hours later it was in and all on the same day ! My turbo was shot , my van was smoking engine oil through the exhaust and all I saw was white thick cloud of smoke behind me while crawling very slowly with no power ! The exhaust turbine shaft was broken in half confirmed autopsy done by myself in case someone doubts my turbo being beyond done !!!
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING yes to some degree ! I had my speed limiter taken out and as a result there was new limits to the power train and the almighty Garett turbo but the exhaust turbine wasn’t up to the new found horse power ! It’s not the bad that is bad but how bad is being handled . I replaced the turbo myself in three hours and I was back on the road again ! Long live the T1N Sprinter .
+Mason Nesson nice you replace the turbo fast, btw I am home, making new videos, my front is disabled, but I I need to wait for my water pump seal to come in tomorrow, I want to replace my front breaks and oil change, also Diferancial fluid change and Transmission fluid change, when disconnecting my transmission lines from the radiator I noticed something bad, my transmission fluid looks black, so I know this does not look good, so I don’t know what to expect when I will drain transmission fluid, but one thing for sure I need to buy a transmission filter and seal I have the 13 pin connector, I did not notice any transmission problems yet, so I hope my Torque convertor is good, I really don’t want to remove that transmission and change it again, also not sure how good the clutches are, the transmission had 450k miles on it when I installed it, so I thought I can get 1 million miles out of it, we will see I guess, all I can do for now is change fluid and hope for the best, I just hope it’s not black like it was in the radiator
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING Oh wow and good you noticed the transmission oil being dark ! The best type water pump seal is the oem metal type and I hope you got an OEM pump too ?
I have a 2013 v6 Sprinter 2500 Im getting underbooster code P0299, I check the hoses, intercooler, egr, resonator and put new gaskets. but I still get underboost, my code reader says I only get 6PSI of boost. do you have any recommendations.
Hey maybe you can help my 2004 2500 sprinter works fine for the first 5 minutes. But goes on limp mode. I then turn van off and start it back up and works perfect again for only 5 minutes then does the same looses power. Hopefully you can respond thanks !!
@@ZimaletaMotors hey thanks for reply. So the turbo is rebuilt new egr didn't notice any leaks. However I notice that when it goes on limp mode the turbo actuator arm stays at an upward position like if it gets stuck. I then move it and it just shakes like if its faulty. I borrowed another actuator I plugged it in an the arm again moves up and down shaky like it's fault. Guy I borrowed it from says it can be 1 of 2 yellow wires that go from actuator harness to computer there can be some ground or lose wire. Can you please give me your opinion? Thanks !!! Your videos are extremely helpful!!
This code refers to a problem with either the fuel delivery system or a malfunctioning turbocharger boost system. Both systems have a direct effect on the performance of the each other.
Email me BTW I will be removing youtube comments from my channel because some channels are getting deleted from bad comments lol not some but millions so I will answer trough emails now zimaleta@gmail.com
This is a common problem, what kind of codes are you getting, but please give me a detailed description not just a number, and I will tell you what it is
And i put in the computer at this is wat I have P1482 , P2133 , P2134 , P2136 , P2197 , P2527 , P1222 , And this other P2401 , P2400 , P2501 I have no idea wats wrong and i need to fix this van
Wow that’s lots of codes, delete the codes and see if more will come, also does your computer give you the definition for the codes? I just don’t have time to look them up
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING i have.a 2007 sprinter with a bad boost leak from the back of turbo CAN’t find from from where and yes limp mode is on HELP😢😢😢
I would like to help you, so it sounds like you know where the boost leak location is! So it’s at the back of the Turbo? If you do see a leak then a simple answer is why not fix it? But obviously you have 2007 model, and your turbo is at the top of the Engine, you need to remove air box to get to the turbo, sometimes the rubber pice that holds the turbo slips off and you just need to adjust it, j fixed this problem for one guy at the truck stop
I just bought a 2006 3500 with 100k always garaged mechanic by trade and never had a diesel. Appreciate always watching your videos. Thank you so much
Your so welcome
I want to thank you for doing this video.... When I first got my 2006 Dodge sprinter 2500 it was going into limp mode... replaced the turbo/actuator with used one (couldn't get an actuator by its self)... the actuator arm was rusted in place. My sprinter ran for several years then started the limp mode again. Turbo would kick in when I start it but very soon after I get no boost (Just as he described) because the actuator arm stopped moving I, again suspected the actuator since I bought it used. Bought a new actuator and paid for it to be installed... it did not solve the problem... remembering that it could be the resonator could be the issue... I ordered then replaced it ($50 Orely's or and eliminator for $20 on Ebay or Amazon)... When I checked the old one it had a split in the seal. Once I replaced it I got my Turbo back.
You were right on target with the issues and how to fix them.... Thank very much.
This is a long read but a DIRE WARNING that could be POTENTIALLY LIFE THREATENING!!!! Don't mess around with this turbos with wastegate problems or leaking center cartridge oil seals on these original T1N Sprinters with the mechanical wastegates. As of just past midnight of this AM, our beloved 2003 T1N erupted into flames and is no longer of this world.
150 miles prior, I got the imp home mode with the decreased boost and increased IAT that was indicative of the OEM IAT sensor oil fouling read error. This happened several years ago, which the sensor was replaced with the updated part. I pulled over saw, smell, and heard nothing abnormal. The scan tool showed no errors. After the ubiquitous reboot (turn off, wait a bit, start back up) gave a normal performance response, I was back on the road. The only indicator that something was a bit off was that the ECTs were about 10F higher than normal, but well within the acceptable range. Drove about a half mile and it started again. Eased her to a safe spot off the highway a couple of miles at the next off ramp (no emergency lane). Again, nothing out of the ordinary engine wise, except for, a slightly elevated ECT. This time, however, my turn signals/hazards were not working. All fusing was good and I could hear the relay behind the dash at the steering column area click with the hazard switch and turn signal. This engine is mostly mechanically controlled, so when after resetting the fuses the signals began working again, I chalked it up to an unrelated electrical issue with electrical corrosion that comes from 16 year old ATC fuses. Back on the rode, everything seemed to go back to normal for about the next 100 miles with the IAT, ECT temps and the temperament of the engine. About that time, the ECT would fluctuate +5 to +10 for the average OAT which was running between 79-85F, and average of 83F. However, the IAT appeared to remain normal. I monitored closely with my Edge CTS scan gauge and all seemed well for the next 15-20 miles. When going up a slight rise for an overpass, the ECT temp rose up to 212F, which is about +20 from the normal average of 192F. I slowed a bit and the temp went back to the 203F mark. So I carefully progressed back up to my previous speed with no changes. Suddenly the ECT went to 224F. As I let off the throttle to slow down, the engine began to fluctuate erratically and I could hear mechanical vibrations coming from the turbo side of the engine compartment. At first, thick black smoke was coming out of the exhaust. Then it started coming from the right front fender. All the while, I was carefully braking and trying to safely maneuver the van/travel trailer onto the emergency lane which is skirted by a steep embankment down into a bayou canal (Louisiana).
Just as I was about halfway onto the emergency lane, the red oil press light came on. I steadied the wheel expecting the motor to shut down. It did not, so I waited till I was straight before turning off the key. I have a nerve disability. Struggling with no power steering or accidentally locking the steering column, would have put us on the slope and into a disastrous roll-over. I pulled the hood release but did not open. Fluids pouring out all over the ground. Expecting a fire I grabbed my fire extinguisher and yelled, "Fire, everyone get out!" It was then that I could see the first flicker of light from a flame, so I emptied that little bottle in 3 seconds. Note: Those small bottles sold for campers and autos are COMPLETELY USELESS on any sort of engine fire. There is just not enough agent to make a dent. Had I a proper sized one, like you see on the walls in schools, hospitals and government buildings, I would have had a good chance at stopping this. In about two minutes, the engine compartment was engulfed and the van filled with thick smoke. She became a total loss.
From what I observed, my experience and from my knowledge of such wastegate issues on the old WWII aircraft reciprocal engines turbo chargers, I have come to the following conclusion based on the evidence supported by the gauges and how this transpired. The vacuum/mechanical operated wastegate was sticking close, providing the turbine with near full exhaust gas flow. This was causing a partial turbine overspeed. The T1N has no provision for EGTs, that I am aware of. A scan tool and my Edge CTS never divulge that there is such a sensor, nor have I seen anything in my limited schematics. However, I did not audibly detect any turbo whine, which one might expect from an overspeed. The other conclusion is that exhaust had clogged from the turbine wheel shedding fins, thus raising the EGT. However, the turbo at idle was quiet and smooth, as well as, cruise and acceleration phases. What is for certain is that the EGT sharply raised and the turbine and center section disintegrated. It was the severed engine oil pressure feed to the center section that was spray engine oil directly upon the superheated exhaust/turbo manifold that cause and fed the fire. Even thought the engine was shut off before the fire, there was enough oil spray/flow to cause the rubber charge/discharge intake piping to ignite, which spread. Once the diesel lines were compromised, it was game over. Although my Sprinter was a 2003 model, Old Betsy only had 98,000 miles on her. Beyond the odd gremlins, the IAT sensor, the charge pipe failure, leaky EGR valve, blown HP fuel pump and the transmission rumble strip issue that most, if not all T1N owners have faced, Old Betsy was a beloved and cherished part of the Family. She will be deeply missed.
I am very sorry for your loss 😔 it sounds like a run away diesel problem, where a turbo seal starts leaking and sucking in all oil into the engine, causing your oil light to turn on, most of the time, you can kill the engine with ignition key, basically it will run till engine blows up, maybe you had a different problem but ether way it resulted in a loss of your sprinter, again I am sorry to hear about your loss, I wish you all the best, and thanks for sharing
Thanks for the videos! What sparked my interest: 2006 Sprinter, 2007 Winnebago View. We occasionally get a low/no boost condition. Stopping the engine and restarting it has "fixed" the problem, and it happens more often when either the vehicle's been parked for an extended time or idled for a longer than normal time (20-30mins). Again, stopping the engine and restarting it "fixes" the issue, but only for a few hours/days. The actuator was temporarily replaced but the issue was almost constant, so we put the original one back in. After the turn-off reset, we occasionally get a P0234 overboost code, also, but that settles out in short order. Ideas/opinions?
I have 2005 with 230K
No check engine light no limp mode got new aluminum resonator delete 4new injectors (5th was replace by previous owner that I know)
It seems to not have 100% of power that had before.
It has RSN of course and I need to replace my shaft but that’s later on
I drove my friends T1N and his seemed to run better feels like his turbo kicks on better compared to mine
When I get to 3000 rpm I can feel lot of vibrations from engine almost like my engine wants to jump out
Like I said no lights on dash and when driving slow it ok but whe accelerating more heavy it doesn’t pull quickly
Serg, thanks for the turbo tips. 2005 2500 w 240k. Turbo has been doing the “disappearing act” at times. Swapped out resonator for the aluminum straight tube. Was good for week or so. Will start looking close at the tubes and seals for leakage. Actuator seems to be moving up n down correctly.
I think they got ripped off too. To check the turbo, take the intake off and look for play in the shaft. Play is normal, but the if it contacts the aluminum housing, the bearings need replaced. Turbos use solid bronze bearings. Besides the fact, that a bad turbo usually causes oil to get dumbed into the combustion. Should produce smoke in the exhaust.
+Joe Moto thanks that’s so true very good explanation
Garrett turbo
Pressure usually from 0,3 to 20psi 25 max
T1N sprinter have a vacuum actuator
NCV3 have mechanic actuator
Limp mode you can see by limited rpms up to 3000 and lost of power
+Vitalii Biletskyi yep good example thanks Vitalii
Hello my friend, are you still working on sprinters?
Yes
Hey Serge. I used your instruction to clean th EGR on my 04. It was a huge help. I also began expediting. We'll see how that goes but I like it ok. Anyway Id like to ask you why the light behind the 3 climate control knobs have gone out at the same time the heater quit blowing hot air. I checked the fuses. They seem fine. Also my brights don't stay on when lever pushed forward but the brights work when lever pulled back.. Does any of that sound familiar?
Thank you very much.
Your videos are really great.
+Roger G yes all this sounds familiar, your high beams don’t work when pushed in but they do when you pull, this is caused by that electric pice witch windshield wipers and all, I have many videos on this, it’s easy to replace, then it will work, about the heater problem, I am dealing with same thing right now, but lights going out should not cause heat not to work, I am talking about the lights on the knobs for heating cooling and what not, mine some times were on and sometimes off, and heater was working bad then and still same thing now, I replaced the HVC electronics thing 3 times this year, every time it helped get the heat back, but after 2 weeks same old thing, just no heat on driver side only passenger, so for the heat I think I might just need to buy a new electric unit, but I think it’s electric problem somewhere
My original OEM Garett Turbo went on me on a very hot summer day , got another oem replacement and three hours later it was in and all on the same day !
My turbo was shot , my van was smoking engine oil through the exhaust and all I saw was white thick cloud of smoke behind me while crawling very slowly with no power ! The exhaust turbine shaft was broken in half confirmed autopsy done by myself in case someone doubts my turbo being beyond done !!!
+Mason Nesson wow crazy sounds like run away Diesel almost
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING yes to some degree ! I had my speed limiter taken out and as a result there was new limits to the power train and the almighty Garett turbo but the exhaust turbine wasn’t up to the new found horse power !
It’s not the bad that is bad but how bad is being handled . I replaced the turbo myself in three hours and I was back on the road again ! Long live the T1N Sprinter .
+Mason Nesson nice you replace the turbo fast, btw I am home, making new videos, my front is disabled, but I I need to wait for my water pump seal to come in tomorrow, I want to replace my front breaks and oil change, also Diferancial fluid change and Transmission fluid change, when disconnecting my transmission lines from the radiator I noticed something bad, my transmission fluid looks black, so I know this does not look good, so I don’t know what to expect when I will drain transmission fluid, but one thing for sure I need to buy a transmission filter and seal I have the 13 pin connector, I did not notice any transmission problems yet, so I hope my Torque convertor is good, I really don’t want to remove that transmission and change it again, also not sure how good the clutches are, the transmission had 450k miles on it when I installed it, so I thought I can get 1 million miles out of it, we will see I guess, all I can do for now is change fluid and hope for the best, I just hope it’s not black like it was in the radiator
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING Oh wow and good you noticed the transmission oil being dark ! The best type water pump seal is the oem metal type and I hope you got an OEM pump too ?
+Mason Nesson I got an aftermarket one long time ago, and I did have the seal but not sure what I have done with it
Boss my turbo when the van cold boost is normal , and then when the warm up start like has boost leak something like that
I have a 2013 v6 Sprinter 2500 Im getting underbooster code P0299, I check the hoses, intercooler, egr, resonator and put new gaskets. but I still get underboost, my code reader says I only get 6PSI of boost. do you have any recommendations.
Hey maybe you can help my 2004 2500 sprinter works fine for the first 5 minutes. But goes on limp mode. I then turn van off and start it back up and works perfect again for only 5 minutes then does the same looses power. Hopefully you can respond thanks !!
It’s not enough information, it can be EGR, Turbo or a boost leak and Turbo Actuator and resonator
@@ZimaletaMotors hey thanks for reply. So the turbo is rebuilt new egr didn't notice any leaks. However I notice that when it goes on limp mode the turbo actuator arm stays at an upward position like if it gets stuck. I then move it and it just shakes like if its faulty. I borrowed another actuator I plugged it in an the arm again moves up and down shaky like it's fault. Guy I borrowed it from says it can be 1 of 2 yellow wires that go from actuator harness to computer there can be some ground or lose wire. Can you please give me your opinion? Thanks !!! Your videos are extremely helpful!!
@@juice-gotcha833 Did you manage to fix it? If yes what was the problem?
Hello sir i have porblem with mine sprinter sometime come go limp mode and p2263 code turocharger supercharger boost system performance plese help
This code refers to a problem with either the fuel delivery system or a malfunctioning turbocharger boost system. Both systems have a direct effect on the performance of the each other.
@@ZimaletaMotors Ok. thanks i have done service i last week and cleen the map sensor can this fault come becouse of air fiter or map sensor?
And i had one other code p2bac for long time can this code crate problem for turbo?
Map sensor does not have anything to do with it, but it’s good that you cleaned it
Hi I’m having issues with my 2004 313. Hoping your still replying.
Email me BTW I will be removing youtube comments from my channel because some channels are getting deleted from bad comments lol not some but millions so I will answer trough emails now zimaleta@gmail.com
I am keeping all my comments, thanks for this advice, I also think comments help each other and help the Sprinter community
May 2005 dodge sprinter 2500 lost power don't go up too 2 and half arpm and is not runing more at 60 milled for hours
This is a common problem, what kind of codes are you getting, but please give me a detailed description not just a number, and I will tell you what it is
This van onle Drive Like 60 miles for hour and lost the power and the turbo actuator is not work
And i put in the computer at this is wat I have
P1482 , P2133 , P2134 , P2136 , P2197 , P2527 , P1222 ,
And this other
P2401 , P2400 , P2501
I have no idea wats wrong and i need to fix this van
You got a boost leak somewhere, check turbo resonator or round house that attaches to intake manifold
Wow that’s lots of codes, delete the codes and see if more will come, also does your computer give you the definition for the codes? I just don’t have time to look them up
I need help whit this 2005 dodge sprinter 2005
👍👍
+Rohan Singh thanks
Garret
I wish people would just get to the point
I need ur help
Let me know how I can help you
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING i have.a 2007 sprinter with a bad boost leak from the back of turbo CAN’t find from from where and yes limp mode is on HELP😢😢😢
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING all i can hear is lot of air
I would like to help you, so it sounds like you know where the boost leak location is! So it’s at the back of the Turbo? If you do see a leak then a simple answer is why not fix it? But obviously you have 2007 model, and your turbo is at the top of the Engine, you need to remove air box to get to the turbo, sometimes the rubber pice that holds the turbo slips off and you just need to adjust it, j fixed this problem for one guy at the truck stop
Then it’s clear to me, the turbo pipe got lose from the turbo, you need to put it back on
ohhhhh
Guyssssssss