Thank for the video, I always thought that I wanted to hit the driver in the center of the club. Used the powder, choked up ~1 inch and moved up to off center toe quadrant. Immediately noticed a difference in ball height, with slight but predictable fade, one 4 inch piece of swing weight on outside of M1 driver, I did not notice a huge change in ball flight, but feels really, really good. I am definitely going to test this on the course….
UA-cam recommendations are insane. Been working on my golf game, but also gave a tip to my student to grip the pencil lower so their writing is legible and easier. I get home and then this video pops up lol
I playing my STZ @44 inches Tipped my tensi 1K 3/4 , hot melt in the head to make it D 3 1/2 , total weigh of the club is around 288 grams , haven't lost any swing speed and hitting it further and in the short grass . the feel of the club now is incredible !!!
Yes, that's what I would want to do too. I like the old Ping Eye 2 Driver. Feels like a manly club. Recently bought an old set of clubs from a friend. The driver weighs less than my putter. Who took the weight out of the driver? I looked for holes or a cut in the club head to find out, but nothing there. ha ha
Great analogy AJ. I'm going to order some lead tape with my components. Also I think I need to tee my ball up slightly higher. Danny Maude also has lots of good swing tips.
I have been using lead tape to fix swing weight on my shorten clubs for long time. Doesn't always look pretty but get job done. Weighted ports on newer clubs has made these adjustments easier!
I just melt down some lead and smear it on the back of my irons -lol. I did use lead weight on my new putter (new = got it from Goodwill and love it for $4.49). Actually I would be an Acculock putter from biomech if I had the dough.
This is really interesting. I'm a single figure golfer and so playing to a decent level. Got fitted into a Sim 2 a while back and when I catch it- it works well but I've been constantly complaining to my buddies that I can't feel the clubhead on these new drivers and so have no control over where I hit it!! One day I drive the ball great. The next-it is like I've never played golf before. Thinking of getting some lead tape!! Hopefully it will bring the good playing days more often. Thanks
So just saw your video. I finally tried gripping down after many years but never thought about adding weight. I assume that after so long the weight tape would fall off. Any way to permanently fix the weight ?
@@jamesrobbins26 a good quality lead tape placed in the correct positions will last pretty much until you decide to remove them. At the very least once you find a preferred weight and tape position, take notes of it so should any tape accidentally get removed during play, you can easily replace them
I can’t tell you how many people I know shorten their drivers down to say 3W length and can’t keep it on the planet. Dri tac Lite grip is a good solution I’ve found I’ve gotten drivers sub 300G that are still D3 and has helped a ton with CHS Your videos are right up my alley, Great info, great explanations and good for people who want to get a better idea about how equipment works. Confidence is key and if you’re confident you have the right equipment and understanding of it then triple bogeys feel less harsh 🤣
how many of those guys have re-set the swing sweight after shortening them? I'd say 90% of golfers know very little about swing weight. I've tried the wynn and golf pride light grips and i don't like the spongey feel of either. I play a 43,5 D5 with midsize grip/lead tape.
"Dri tac Lite grip is a good solution I’ve found I’ve gotten drivers sub 300G that are still D3 and has helped a ton with CHS " Why are some of you speaking in a foreign language? lol
Excellent video! I tried out you suggestions on checking lie angle on my irons - another great video. It appears I'm ok on my lie angle. My consistency is a bit off. I'll apply some of the suggestions for consistency in this video. I've got the foot powder, just haven't used it yet.
Great video AJ. Tee height also an important factor. I see way too many folks at the driving range with tees too short meaning they always strike the ball south of the equator, and also encourage downward swing paths that spin the ball up. Tee it high, let if fly 😄👍
Agreed, Hitting off whatever tee is under the mat at the range breeds bad/inconsistent habits in attack angle. Inconsistent setup is something that there isn’t much excuse for; unless you’re still in your first few years of golf. Check that the equator of the ball sits at the top line of the crown, and learn to get the ball launching correctly, and after that you can start to look at your face angle and path to control the side spin/shot shape.
If you want a specific tee height, try step-tees. The length is always the same unless you use a really long tee because I don't believe steps come in anything other than standard sizes. Obviously, the shorter tees are normally for a 3 wood or other fairway clubs but it removes 1 variable from the process.
In principle step tees are a great idea, but the teeing areas on the courses I play are seldom level, usually ball above feet, and I might adjust tee height if I want to promote a draw (high tee with ball bottom at 5-6 cm) or a fade (low tee with ball bottom at 3-4 cm) so tee height variability is a requirement. That and I’ve stuck with 8 cm plain wooden tees forever for the big stick 😀👍
I'm also a fitter/builder. I agree with your basic premise and I agree that many fitters look at golfers like a fox looks at a chicken... the correct shaft allows you to accurately return the club back to the ball reliably. Personally I like a very stiff tip but the other shaft characteristics matter very little to me. I can swing a regular, stiff, x stiff with very similar results. If average golfers try wildly different shafts, they'll be very close to a good fit when they see the results. Very few players need to spend more than $200 on an aftermarket shafts.
Are you sure you're not a Shaolin Monk A.J.? You talk a lot of sense very succinctly, thanks. Now if only I didnt swing it differently every shot I make.
OK.....2 hours on the range....sore back now.....cut 1/2" off shaft and changed loft by 1-1/2 degrees....swing weight adjusted to D4. More good strikes! Didn't see a lot of change in club head speed (app on my iphone). Need to get on a monitor to see if the distance change was any different (hard to tell on the range), definitely straighter!
I've just been gripping down about 2.5", my Triton driver was too heavy previously but feels like it was made for this shorter swing radius. Going to be fun taking this to the course 😁
@@EFGMC works 100%. Been doing a bunch of scramble events and have been mr consistency with the driver. Once I'm warmed up a bit can let the power increase. Didn't really miss a driver shot badly over the last 18, just twice grounded it and went about 150
Great vid, RG ... but as a swing coach, I must confess that nothing's in stone here. Ex: I have a student who hits the ball pretty much in the same spot; mid equator yet her distance hasn't got much to be desired. Why ... because her go-to habit is to initiate her shoulder rotation faster than her release into the ball, hence her hands are late albeit her club face is square. She ( of course ) is executing drills to remedy this problem but again ... there is always something in golf that defies 'the norm.' I am aware however that what you suggest would work for over 90% of golfers. Love your vids. Major props! Keep up the good work & Thx!
I know what you mean... I've been checking my swing speed which now ranges from mid 60's to mid 90's but little change in distance. I know some of the problems with my swing but haven't ironed them out, and I'm using nothing but irons on a par 3 course until I get my swing down.
I was just at the range today, and I tend to hit terrible slices, I decided to experiment with choking down on the grip, and while I did not use the spray powder I still hit slices, but they were no where near as bad, I do have an offset driver with a 12° loft that i want to try experimenting with as the one i was using today had a 10.5° loft to it.
the extra loft won't make your slice worse. try a few things out and look for improvement. standing slightly further back from the ball, move the tee forwards 1" and then backwards 2" to see the difference. as AJ says don't be scared to go down the driver grip for more accuracy and the foot spray is very much worth the money too. i don't know your height and age, but i generally think driver shaft length is linked to the person's height, and the ability to get all the required movements in sinc. can be hindered by the individual's mobility.
@dave c yeah the thing is, WHEN I DO hit the driver straight I actually do get some pretty good distance on it, I get a carry of about 210-220 yards. ...not to bad for a 37 year old!
@@jeffrielly it's each to his, or her own. golf is a risk and reward game, the driver is the big risk, but offers so much reward, and it tempts you SO much. the trees, rough, and lake are constantly calling your balls name, and it listens to them, NOT YOU. hit your driver when there is lateral room on the fairway, come down the shaft for more accuracy, use the 3 wood when it's too tight, use an iron when it's really tight, and plan your way to the hole. stop playing in the shrubs, it's not a nature walk. i'll need to write this down and read it before i play each time.
If any golfer above a 5 handicap is using a stock length driver then they're nuts. Anything above 44.5" is madness in my opinion, especially when you consider that there are numerous videos showing a shorter driver losing no distance at all. What you may lose in swingspeed, you'll more than make up in ball speed from centered hits. And with today's drivers having weights it's so easy to make the swingweight correct when shortening the shaft.
Great information for sure. Question: I have problems turning my head over to close the face at impact, Would lead tape help me and if so where on the driver. To get my head closed now for straight shots the ball has to be on the little toe of my left foot.
I'll end up holding the club down below the grip. 😆. Interesting tips though. Something I've not heard before when trying to get more consistency with the driver.
AJ, I just did a fitting with a Taylormade Rep who put impact sticker on the face of my Stealth Plus driver that I bought off the shelf unfitted. I hit every shot exactly in the same place, just where you said. Yet I sprayed the ball every where. It was at least 20 shots. Changing settings had no effect. I was not gripping down the shaft. Are the new drivers just so light that it’s hard to feel the head of the club? My understanding is that manufacturers are making drivers lighter with lighter, longer shafts so that people can swing them faster to hit the ball farther. Adding lead tape may give accuracy, but won’t reduce club head speed? I’m frustrated by the expense of a new driver I can’t hit.
Good sound advice. Story of muine yesterday. I took my old andnew driver to GOLF GALAXY (lol). I asked them to cut my new driver down to match the old driver length. Neither driver had grip on it- I was going to do that myself later. The alleged club master then precedes to weigh the both drivers on his machine then says: "if u cut the new driver shaft down u wont be able to swing it AT ALL"... as it fell outside "his parameters". Keep in mind he hasnt cut anything yet. The new shaft is like 4 inches longr than the old one. I tell him to just cut it please- even though he said this was against his professional opinion LOL. He cuts it (a sloppy cut at that)... I go home- regrip the club- go to the range and the new driver swings like a charm and better than the old one. I knew the GG guy was full of SH*T. Oh yea he never weighed them after cutting them. Unbelievable some of these ppl. I am glad I had enough sense to know better. This video helped with that. Thanks
This works for people who are using a driver that is too long. It doesn't work for somebody who needs a longer driver to have a proper swing path. The majority of golfers will do better with a shorter driver, but there are exceptions (like me). After much experimentation, I ended up with a 47 inch driver and I hit it more consistently than any driver I have ever used. I always used to have a tendency to cut across the ball and hit a fade. I now hit a straight ball with no adjustments to my swing. I am somewhat tall, but have a high waist which raises my hands farther off the ground. My arms are medium short and I have a swing path along my shoulder line - relatively flat. All of those point to using longer clubs. Somebody who is tall and fights a slice, assuming a relatively conventional swing, should look at having a longer test club made mto see what happens. He/she may be surprised by how much easier it is to hit well. Graphite shafts keep the club weight from getting too heavy. Also 2 inches of extra length makes a shaft play a whole flex softer. A stiff shaft will play as a regular flex for example.
This is a good example that there are no hard laws when it comes to golf and fitting. Two different golfers can see completely different results from the same change. Experimentation is the key.
@@EFGMC Now my 47 inch driver is illegal in many tournaments! Grrr! The USGA shouldn't be messing with nthe rules so much. THe shorter drivers could wreck the backs of many tall golfers (as they get older and less flexible). I don't hit the ball any farther on my best hits with the longer driver, but it hit it much more consistently so my average drive length is longer (plus I am hitting from the fairway much more often - more roll).
Thank you for sharing this video, I am basically hitting my driver in between the center of the clubface and a bit below the center as well. My driver has 10.5* of loft and is set in a neutral position. My driver has a lot of adjustments available ( Honma ) where do you suggest I start my adjustments to get my ball marks of the club face more in the desired position ( a little higher and toward the toe? Thank you for your help
My understanding is yes it's conforming, as long as it's not moved during course of play. Would double check that however if you are going to play in a USGA qualifier 😅
I have the Taylormade sim set at the upright position 10.5 degrees. I purchased an aftermarket rear 21 gram weight to add head weight just under the limit. To me it adds more forgiveness to the sim. Would you suggest others use aftermarket weights instead of lead tape if their drivers are equipped with weights? My bad shots are left and sometimes too high. I am going to experiment at 9 degrees with the face more open. Hopefully that dials me in perfect.
I think either one works. Aftermarkets give you a cleaner look, but lead tape is fast, cheap and goes on any club. You can always start with the tape and then find the appropriate weight once you're dialed in.
What would you recommend for being a toe hitter who wants closer to center toeish Longer length or more head weight Playing a 45” driver now and 195 gram head My toe shots lead dead snap hooks 😢
Excellent video! The KISS principle: keep it simple stupid lol. Would love to know your input on the following question. If two clubs have equal static weight but one is built in way that gives it a swing weight of C9 and the other club has a swingweight of D5 which club will you be able to swing faster?
Going to depend on the golfer, but if we gave those 2 clubs to 10 golfers, my guess would be the D5 SW would be faster. This assumes everything else about the clubs is basically equal. The D5 club should have a heavier head and therefore a more flexible feeling shaft, which I believe would result in better sequencing from most golfers and faster speeds through impact. Realize I am making a fair number of assumptions here!!
@@EFGMC thank you, it makes complete sense. Manufacturers trying to push these lighter materials in the pursuit of swing speed may be missing the point of a slightly heavier club could promote better strike through a number of ways (club staying on plane, clubhead awareness etc). Thank you for the reply!!! 🙏🙏🙏
Are the manufacturers driver heads typically the same weight from a five year span for example? Say you had a Callaway Rogue and wanted to put a shaft you like on a newer model head or would you have to fit for a different shaft?
Should be within the same range give or take a gram or two. If the old driver had a shorter stock length than the new, that would be an indication that the head is probably heavier. You could still use that shaft without issue, just might need to add some lead tape or switch out the weight screws for heavier ones.
Most are in the center horizontally but they are usually slightly above the equator vertically. Being right in the center will never get you in trouble. Also if they are wanting to hit a cut, then you don't want to be out on the toe as it will cancel out that spin. Max workability will come from the center.
No it will slow the toe down and leads to more fade through face open tendency. Put it on the heel side for draw shape, but you might need up to 20 grams to feel the effect
Are you saying just choke down on the Driver grip until you gain control, or are you suggesting cutting down the shaft length from the butt end of the driver. Or are you suggesting that if you only have control choking down inches should you cut two inches of you shaft and choke down 2 inches? At what point does this method become an irreversible equipment modification?
Always start with choking down and see the results with that. If you decide you like that new length, you can always cut it down to make it permanent. The feel of the club choking vs cutting down will be very similar. Main difference is the grip will be slightly smaller when choking down because of the taper.
Does gripping down cost distance loss due to less speed & smaller arc? I understand the concept of shorter = control but is loss of distance worth it? 1 other thing; what about lie angle with a driver?
Theoretically you should find the center of the face more often and your smash factor should go up. The resulting extra ball speed should offset (or at least minimize) the consequences of a slightly lower clubhead speed.
I got fitted through pxg All woods are shorter $5000 later and they are sitting next to the furnace… Got refitted at superstore and they couldn’t believe I was fitted in these.. Dog shit
Wish I had $5,000. I'd spend it all on golf. Maybe even get a new set of clubs. Wouldn't have to worry about being able to pay green fees in the coming months. Watch out for the foxes.
What are you supposed to do with this once you figure out length and weight please? Presume you then either cut shaft down and add permanent weight somehow or you buy a new shaft? Sorry if that’s a slightly noobish question but I presume people aren’t then just playing with lead tape stuck to their driver and gripping down. If there’s already a video on this a link would really help. Great content TY.
Correct. Once you find the "right" length, you can either cut the shaft down or just continue to grip down at that point. The results should be the same in either case as only real difference is the grip diameter gets smaller when gripping down on it vs cutting and holding grip at the end. For weight, you can either get appropriate screw in or slider weights for your particular driver, or just stick with lead tape. Plenty of tour pros have lead tape all over their clubs.
What about adjustable weights? Some OEMs have interchangeable weights, you namely have to buy the kits. Can you get the swingweight up enough with those or do you need lead tape as well?
If you have a club with moveable weights and you have the right extra weights, by all means use them. Will just depend on the configuration of the club (new length and existing weights), as to whether you can get the appropriate amount of weight into the head using OEM or aftermarket weights.
I have a 12 year old driver & need to know if a newer design, adjustable hozel, would be in order. I konw that .83 COR is the max so what would be the advantage
Perfect center hits, won't show much of any difference. Newer drivers in theory have a larger part of the face that allow for that max COR. Also modern drivers have figured out where to position the CG of the head to lower spin numbers for more distance. This is at least how it supposed to do.
You can by all means cut down the shaft if you want to make the change more permanent. The swing weight will change very slightly (not a noticeable amount). Only other change is that the grip size will change because of the grip taper. Choking down makes the grip slightly smaller.
Yes, it might although not everyone will see the same change in speed. That said, the important number is ball speed so if the shorter shaft allows for more center contact, you could very well see equal if not better ball speed and hopefully more consistent speed.
Up to you. You can cut it, or just continue to grip down farther. Other than the grip diameter being smaller when gripping down, the feel and performance should be similar with both.
Would probably go under 45 inches however it's really golfer dependent. If you can control and get more speed from longer (ie like Phil at 47.5 inches) then that can work. For most people though something like 44.5 should work better.
Yes. If you find that 2 inch inches shorter is best, you can just cut it. The result will be the same except the grip will be slightly thicker since you aren’t gripping down.
I bet the simplicity of this video makes all the 'Gotta Have the Newest Technology Of Past 3 Months Driver' head's hurt. I mean come on, people... AI technology ? and Star Warz Lazer graphics ! --> You're being conned by experts of cons (sales advertising) and enjoying it, but not getting better ever 😂
Looking to purchase a driver .. What is your advice for purchasing a driver? I had a 10 year layoff & started back golf during covid. I took a 7 iron and tried several shafts. I seem to be almost right b/t reg & stiff flex and currently using a DG R300 cut to where its half way b/t R300 and S300 flex. When using R300 as a reg flex I could feel it bending just before I make contact w/ the ball .. it wasn't a bad feeling just didn't know if I should feel that or not. Had descent results w/ the 7 iron using both R300 reg flex and R300 in b/t reg & stiff. S300 stiff flex had more inconsistent results. So, should I look for a similar flex in driver meaning half way b/t reg/stiff? Should I avoid the lighter driver shafts since the iron shafts are not light weight? Do you suggest any component heads or go for an older generation big name brand? Any advice appreciated.
The flex is really about how your body reacts to that flex feel. It sounds like a stiffer shaft causes some issues for you so I would stay softer. Probably not a bad idea to get a 70g driver shaft to match up a little better with the irons. I think a heavier R flex would probably work pretty well. Of course there are no real standards for shaft flex so two different stiff shafts can be quite different. As far as head goes, either option can work. Any driver head from the last 7 years will pretty much have all the same tech as today so it's more about just finding something you like the look of and practicing with it. Probably the most forgiving brands would be Taylormade, Callaway, and Ping. You can also find some inexpensive Cleveland drivers that are very good.
@@EFGMC It's good to know. For 57 years I have been trying and mostly succeeding on hitting it dead center. Of course I spent my first ~20 years hitting it "on the screws" of persimmon. I musta missed the memo when we went to metal. ;)
@@cwmcclintock5757 Lots of people going retro now and putting those persimmon woods and muscle back irons back in play. Still using modern ball though.
@@EFGMC Ha. So I have been hearing, and over the last 40 years it HAS BEEN the balls. But I'm not a Luddite and going to try to hit drives with a driver head the size of my fist with a slightly long S300 for the shaft.;) Did that in the '80s,.. shirt, mug the works. I'm 21st Century, but only slightly. When I groove my (compliant) TM R580XD it goes the same as my TM R540TP. It's just kinder on the mishits. And yes, the TM Sim's high flying knuckle balls go further on a launch monitor, and yes, science engineering has somehow mildly enhanced mishit forgiveness since 2001.Yet, IMHO, you are dead solid perfect. Decade after decade, EVERYONE has made everything way more complicated (and of course more net expensive) than it needs to be. IMHO2, the massive business of golf is going to kill the current resurgence of golf with $500 drivers with $350 shafts. Great work. I'm checkin' out the rest of your vids tonight. Expect some flattering comments. ;)
@@cwmcclintock5757 Totally agree. The fact that these fitters can get people to pay $800-$1000 for a driver!! That is only bad for the game no matter how you look at it. Thanks for supporting the channel!
3 inches would move the swing weight up 20 points approx. so a D2 driver would be F2. You might be able to handle the feel of that weight, won’t know until you try. The problem I noticed was the shaft just felt too loose when at that length. I dropped the head weight and the shaft felt better. Could also step up a flex and see what that does. I did a video on building a 48 inch driver you might want to check out. My first vote would be to use a head with weight screws so you can easily change the head weight.
@@EFGMC banks of what the response I've been using a 48 inch driver for a little over 2 years ,weirdly enough my accuracy i went up but I'm finding it hard to keep it the spin numbers down
Maybe. I can't say what will work for someone else. That's the whole point. You need to see if changing these things actually improves your impact quality and consistency. I just show you the how.
Omg...this is ridiculous. Stop selling the band aid and sell the cure! Go get fit. A shit shaft, head combo match will never be accurate, regardless of where you grip it or try to strike the ball. You should never change yourself to match the equipment. Shaft flex, droop, bend profile, torque equates to a better strike. Not choking down and using foot spray. Folks do your homework
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Great video for a old time club builder who is always ready to learn more from a pro like you
Best common sense video on driver fitting! Thank you!
Excellent video. I love the clear explanation and the easy approach. Really helped me tighten my dispersion.
Thank for the video, I always thought that I wanted to hit the driver in the center of the club. Used the powder, choked up ~1 inch and moved up to off center toe quadrant. Immediately noticed a difference in ball height, with slight but predictable fade, one 4 inch piece of swing weight on outside of M1 driver, I did not notice a huge change in ball flight, but feels really, really good. I am definitely going to test this on the course….
One of the best information driver fitting video out here... thank you
Thanks for watching
UA-cam recommendations are insane. Been working on my golf game, but also gave a tip to my student to grip the pencil lower so their writing is legible and easier. I get home and then this video pops up lol
I playing my STZ @44 inches Tipped my tensi 1K 3/4 , hot melt in the head to make it D 3 1/2 , total weigh of the club is around 288 grams , haven't lost any swing speed and hitting it further and in the short grass . the feel of the club now is incredible !!!
Please translate into English! lol
I'm now playing a 35" driver with 10 lbs of lead tape.
😆
😂😂😂
Yes, that's what I would want to do too. I like the old Ping Eye 2 Driver. Feels like a manly club. Recently bought an old set of clubs from a friend. The driver weighs less than my putter. Who took the weight out of the driver? I looked for holes or a cut in the club head to find out, but nothing there. ha ha
I have an old cobra hybrid rail baffler that weighs a ton. I have to be cautious for injuries on that one. lol 😂 before the turn of the century old.
This is rocket science in simple English. Love it!
Great analogy AJ. I'm going to order some lead tape with my components. Also I think I need to tee my ball up slightly higher. Danny Maude also has lots of good swing tips.
Thanks, this has been a lot of help! If is ever stops raining will try this info out.
I have been using lead tape to fix swing weight on my shorten clubs for long time. Doesn't always look pretty but get job done. Weighted ports on newer clubs has made these adjustments easier!
I just melt down some lead and smear it on the back of my irons -lol. I did use lead weight on my new putter (new = got it from Goodwill and love it for $4.49). Actually I would be an Acculock putter from biomech if I had the dough.
This is really interesting. I'm a single figure golfer and so playing to a decent level. Got fitted into a Sim 2 a while back and when I catch it- it works well but I've been constantly complaining to my buddies that I can't feel the clubhead on these new drivers and so have no control over where I hit it!! One day I drive the ball great. The next-it is like I've never played golf before. Thinking of getting some lead tape!! Hopefully it will bring the good playing days more often. Thanks
Start adding a couple two inch strips at a time and pay attention to impact pattern. Keep going until you get the tightest face pattern.
will do thanks👍🏻
So just saw your video. I finally tried gripping down after many years but never thought about adding weight. I assume that after so long the weight tape would fall off. Any way to permanently fix the weight ?
@@jamesrobbins26 a good quality lead tape placed in the correct positions will last pretty much until you decide to remove them. At the very least once you find a preferred weight and tape position, take notes of it so should any tape accidentally get removed during play, you can easily replace them
Thanks! This was really helpful. I always enjoy your videos.
I can’t tell you how many people I know shorten their drivers down to say 3W length and can’t keep it on the planet.
Dri tac Lite grip is a good solution I’ve found I’ve gotten drivers sub 300G that are still D3 and has helped a ton with CHS
Your videos are right up my alley, Great info, great explanations and good for people who want to get a better idea about how equipment works. Confidence is key and if you’re confident you have the right equipment and understanding of it then triple bogeys feel less harsh 🤣
how many of those guys have re-set the swing sweight after shortening them? I'd say 90% of golfers know very little about swing weight. I've tried the wynn and golf pride light grips and i don't like the spongey feel of either. I play a 43,5 D5 with midsize grip/lead tape.
Some pure grips are a bit lighter and help with swing weight issues
“Feels good, huh?” 😂 (Dri Tac commercial)
"Dri tac Lite grip is a good solution I’ve found I’ve gotten drivers sub 300G that are still D3 and has helped a ton with CHS " Why are some of you speaking in a foreign language? lol
Excellent video! I tried out you suggestions on checking lie angle on my irons - another great video. It appears I'm ok on my lie angle. My consistency is a bit off. I'll apply some of the suggestions for consistency in this video. I've got the foot powder, just haven't used it yet.
Why is this comment appearing twice? I did not post it twice. Strange.
Great video that makes total sense to me a amateur club maker whose trid to learn from a pro like you.
Food for thought AJ. Thanks
Fascinating tips. Will definitely try that. Thanks.
Great video AJ. Tee height also an important factor. I see way too many folks at the driving range with tees too short meaning they always strike the ball south of the equator, and also encourage downward swing paths that spin the ball up. Tee it high, let if fly 😄👍
Agreed, Hitting off whatever tee is under the mat at the range breeds bad/inconsistent habits in attack angle. Inconsistent setup is something that there isn’t much excuse for; unless you’re still in your first few years of golf. Check that the equator of the ball sits at the top line of the crown, and learn to get the ball launching correctly, and after that you can start to look at your face angle and path to control the side spin/shot shape.
If you want a specific tee height, try step-tees. The length is always the same unless you use a really long tee because I don't believe steps come in anything other than standard sizes. Obviously, the shorter tees are normally for a 3 wood or other fairway clubs but it removes 1 variable from the process.
In principle step tees are a great idea, but the teeing areas on the courses I play are seldom level, usually ball above feet, and I might adjust tee height if I want to promote a draw (high tee with ball bottom at 5-6 cm) or a fade (low tee with ball bottom at 3-4 cm) so tee height variability is a requirement. That and I’ve stuck with 8 cm plain wooden tees forever for the big stick 😀👍
@@colinwalker7466 Gotta do whatever works for ya! Be well.
And good luck trying to tell someone to tee it up…
Someone else told them to tee down or they watched a video.. meanwhile they never improve
That's why golf courses have small pencils, for accurate scoring 😏
to bad ppl bring their own long ass pencils😂
Enjoy the simple approach, thx
I'm also a fitter/builder. I agree with your basic premise and I agree that many fitters look at golfers like a fox looks at a chicken... the correct shaft allows you to accurately return the club back to the ball reliably. Personally I like a very stiff tip but the other shaft characteristics matter very little to me. I can swing a regular, stiff, x stiff with very similar results. If average golfers try wildly different shafts, they'll be very close to a good fit when they see the results. Very few players need to spend more than $200 on an aftermarket shafts.
I will be heading out to the range tomorrow!! Callaway Epic Flash SZ
Thank you! Good common sense and easy to follow suggestions. cheers
AWESOME TIP! Makes sense. Let's go try it out...
Fine content...solved a problem..thanks for your time..
Are you sure you're not a Shaolin Monk A.J.? You talk a lot of sense very succinctly, thanks. Now if only I didnt swing it differently every shot I make.
OK.....2 hours on the range....sore back now.....cut 1/2" off shaft and changed loft by 1-1/2 degrees....swing weight adjusted to D4. More good strikes! Didn't see a lot of change in club head speed (app on my iphone). Need to get on a monitor to see if the distance change was any different (hard to tell on the range), definitely straighter!
the garming80 is a good tool for this
I've just been gripping down about 2.5", my Triton driver was too heavy previously but feels like it was made for this shorter swing radius. Going to be fun taking this to the course 😁
Let us know how it works.
@@EFGMC works 100%. Been doing a bunch of scramble events and have been mr consistency with the driver. Once I'm warmed up a bit can let the power increase. Didn't really miss a driver shot badly over the last 18, just twice grounded it and went about 150
@@beimsteiner dont forget with the taper of a grip gripping down now means you are gripping a thinner grip.
@@krusher74 very true, ordering a shaft adapter and going to use a shorter whippier shaft with a nice dritac oversized grip
Thx for a simple experiment to try.
Excellent, great video really helpful thank you.
This guy is awesome
Great video.. Definitely going to be dialling in my driver with this 👍👌
White chalk on the ball works also.
Great vid, RG ... but as a swing coach, I must confess that nothing's in stone here.
Ex: I have a student who hits the ball pretty much in the same spot; mid equator yet her distance hasn't got much to be desired. Why ... because her go-to habit is to initiate her shoulder rotation faster than her release into the ball, hence her hands are late albeit her club face is square. She ( of course ) is executing drills to remedy this problem but again ... there is always something in golf that defies 'the norm.'
I am aware however that what you suggest would work for over 90% of golfers.
Love your vids. Major props! Keep up the good work & Thx!
I know what you mean... I've been checking my swing speed which now ranges from mid 60's to mid 90's but little change in distance. I know some of the problems with my swing but haven't ironed them out, and I'm using nothing but irons on a par 3 course until I get my swing down.
Wonderful, thank you
Valuable lesson, many thanks.
Very interesting idea
I like how your left arm breaks down in the follow through.
Equipment pro, yes. Swing pro, no!
Great Video! Thank you 🔥👏💪🫶
Very helpful. Thanks.
Glad it was useful.
Great information !!
I was just at the range today, and I tend to hit terrible slices, I decided to experiment with choking down on the grip, and while I did not use the spray powder I still hit slices, but they were no where near as bad, I do have an offset driver with a 12° loft that i want to try experimenting with as the one i was using today had a 10.5° loft to it.
the extra loft won't make your slice worse.
try a few things out and look for improvement.
standing slightly further back from the ball, move the tee forwards 1" and then backwards 2" to see the difference.
as AJ says don't be scared to go down the driver grip for more accuracy and the foot spray is very much worth the money too.
i don't know your height and age, but i generally think driver shaft length is linked to the person's height, and the ability to get all the required movements in sinc. can be hindered by the individual's mobility.
@dave c yeah the thing is, WHEN I DO hit the driver straight I actually do get some pretty good distance on it, I get a carry of about 210-220 yards. ...not to bad for a 37 year old!
@@jeffrielly it's each to his, or her own.
golf is a risk and reward game, the driver is the big risk, but offers so much reward, and it tempts you SO much.
the trees, rough, and lake are constantly calling your balls name, and it listens to them, NOT YOU.
hit your driver when there is lateral room on the fairway, come down the shaft for more accuracy, use the 3 wood when it's too tight, use an iron when it's really tight, and plan your way to the hole. stop playing in the shrubs, it's not a nature walk.
i'll need to write this down and read it before i play each time.
@@davec8730 what about something like the Teton Hybrid Driver? I saw it is on the USGA's database so it is technically speaking "Legal" to use.
Great stuff AJ Thanks a lot!!! Happy New Year!!!
Happy New Year to you!!
If any golfer above a 5 handicap is using a stock length driver then they're nuts. Anything above 44.5" is madness in my opinion, especially when you consider that there are numerous videos showing a shorter driver losing no distance at all. What you may lose in swingspeed, you'll more than make up in ball speed from centered hits. And with today's drivers having weights it's so easy to make the swingweight correct when shortening the shaft.
Brilliant!
Great information for sure. Question: I have problems turning my head over to close the face at impact, Would lead tape help me and if so where on the driver. To get my head closed now for straight shots the ball has to be on the little toe of my left foot.
Thanks again. Great stuff.
Appreciate it. Please remember to Subscribe if you haven't yet.
I wish more adjustable adapters could include lie adjustments. I shortened my driver to 43 inches, and now I need the club has to be more upright.
I'll end up holding the club down below the grip. 😆. Interesting tips though. Something I've not heard before when trying to get more consistency with the driver.
Excellent!
Appreciate it!
Great video
What an awesome video!
Thanks for watching!
AJ, I just did a fitting with a Taylormade Rep who put impact sticker on the face of my Stealth Plus driver that I bought off the shelf unfitted. I hit every shot exactly in the same place, just where you said. Yet I sprayed the ball every where. It was at least 20 shots. Changing settings had no effect. I was not gripping down the shaft. Are the new drivers just so light that it’s hard to feel the head of the club? My understanding is that manufacturers are making drivers lighter with lighter, longer shafts so that people can swing them faster to hit the ball farther. Adding lead tape may give accuracy, but won’t reduce club head speed? I’m frustrated by the expense of a new driver I can’t hit.
Good sound advice. Story of muine yesterday. I took my old andnew driver to GOLF GALAXY (lol). I asked them to cut my new driver down to match the old driver length. Neither driver had grip on it- I was going to do that myself later. The alleged club master then precedes to weigh the both drivers on his machine then says: "if u cut the new driver shaft down u wont be able to swing it AT ALL"... as it fell outside "his parameters". Keep in mind he hasnt cut anything yet. The new shaft is like 4 inches longr than the old one. I tell him to just cut it please- even though he said this was against his professional opinion LOL. He cuts it (a sloppy cut at that)... I go home- regrip the club- go to the range and the new driver swings like a charm and better than the old one. I knew the GG guy was full of SH*T. Oh yea he never weighed them after cutting them. Unbelievable some of these ppl. I am glad I had enough sense to know better. This video helped with that. Thanks
Great video. With all the adjustable driver, do you start but seething the head to the neutral position? Thanks
I would play it in neutral to start if you haven't already played around with the settings. If you have decided on a setting, go with that.
Does putting the weight in the back of the driver make the ball spin more resulting in shorter distance?
This works for people who are using a driver that is too long. It doesn't work for somebody who needs a longer driver to have a proper swing path. The majority of golfers will do better with a shorter driver, but there are exceptions (like me). After much experimentation, I ended up with a 47 inch driver and I hit it more consistently than any driver I have ever used. I always used to have a tendency to cut across the ball and hit a fade. I now hit a straight ball with no adjustments to my swing. I am somewhat tall, but have a high waist which raises my hands farther off the ground. My arms are medium short and I have a swing path along my shoulder line - relatively flat. All of those point to using longer clubs. Somebody who is tall and fights a slice, assuming a relatively conventional swing, should look at having a longer test club made mto see what happens. He/she may be surprised by how much easier it is to hit well. Graphite shafts keep the club weight from getting too heavy. Also 2 inches of extra length makes a shaft play a whole flex softer. A stiff shaft will play as a regular flex for example.
This is a good example that there are no hard laws when it comes to golf and fitting. Two different golfers can see completely different results from the same change. Experimentation is the key.
@@EFGMC Now my 47 inch driver is illegal in many tournaments! Grrr! The USGA shouldn't be messing with nthe rules so much. THe shorter drivers could wreck the backs of many tall golfers (as they get older and less flexible). I don't hit the ball any farther on my best hits with the longer driver, but it hit it much more consistently so my average drive length is longer (plus I am hitting from the fairway much more often - more roll).
I remember Dorf on Golf recommended a 22" driver. Tried it and never hit a ball so long off the tee!
Great stuffs
Thank you sir!
does adding lead tape or adding swing weight help with clubhead speed or distance?
Club head speed, probably not.Ball speed and distance, yes it can.
Thank you for sharing this video, I am basically hitting my driver in between the center of the clubface and a bit below the center as well. My driver has 10.5* of loft and is set in a neutral position. My driver has a lot of adjustments available ( Honma ) where do you suggest I start my adjustments to get my ball marks of the club face more in the desired position ( a little higher and toward the toe? Thank you for your help
Simplest fix, is raise that tee height a 1/4 inch and take a tiny step back from the ball at setup. See if that gets you in the right spot.
Does the rules allow for the placement of the lead tape on the crown of the head?
My understanding is yes it's conforming, as long as it's not moved during course of play. Would double check that however if you are going to play in a USGA qualifier 😅
I have the Taylormade sim set at the upright position 10.5 degrees. I purchased an aftermarket rear 21 gram weight to add head weight just under the limit. To me it adds more forgiveness to the sim. Would you suggest others use aftermarket weights instead of lead tape if their drivers are equipped with weights? My bad shots are left and sometimes too high. I am going to experiment at 9 degrees with the face more open. Hopefully that dials me in perfect.
I think either one works. Aftermarkets give you a cleaner look, but lead tape is fast, cheap and goes on any club. You can always start with the tape and then find the appropriate weight once you're dialed in.
I was looking for a 6 gram weight for my Rodue SZ.
AMAZON….Histar weight $23 😳
Went to hardware store a bought a 6mm thread by 3/8” long bolt. $2.😉
@@seanpeacock5595 I like that!
What would you recommend for being a toe hitter who wants closer to center toeish
Longer length or more head weight
Playing a 45” driver now and 195 gram head
My toe shots lead dead snap hooks 😢
Could try longer, or adjusting setup to ball on heel side at address.
Excellent video! The KISS principle: keep it simple stupid lol. Would love to know your input on the following question. If two clubs have equal static weight but one is built in way that gives it a swing weight of C9 and the other club has a swingweight of D5 which club will you be able to swing faster?
Going to depend on the golfer, but if we gave those 2 clubs to 10 golfers, my guess would be the D5 SW would be faster. This assumes everything else about the clubs is basically equal. The D5 club should have a heavier head and therefore a more flexible feeling shaft, which I believe would result in better sequencing from most golfers and faster speeds through impact.
Realize I am making a fair number of assumptions here!!
@@EFGMC thank you, it makes complete sense. Manufacturers trying to push these lighter materials in the pursuit of swing speed may be missing the point of a slightly heavier club could promote better strike through a number of ways (club staying on plane, clubhead awareness etc). Thank you for the reply!!! 🙏🙏🙏
@@legend9018 if one club is 330g and the other 290g but both D5 then the weight-saving may help a faster swing speed.
AJ so does this process also work for your other woods and hybrids? What about irons?
Yes it will work. The amount of change will just be smaller as you move from larger headed woods to hybrids and irons.
Are the manufacturers driver heads typically the same weight from a five year span for example? Say you had a Callaway Rogue and wanted to put a shaft you like on a newer model head or would you have to fit for a different shaft?
Should be within the same range give or take a gram or two. If the old driver had a shorter stock length than the new, that would be an indication that the head is probably heavier. You could still use that shaft without issue, just might need to add some lead tape or switch out the weight screws for heavier ones.
I assume you cut your club down after, and not just choke down on it?
You can but you don’t have to. There are plenty of pro golfers who choke down with their clubs all the time.
Love your videos but then why do all the pro hit directly out of the center and that's what they strive for
Most are in the center horizontally but they are usually slightly above the equator vertically. Being right in the center will never get you in trouble. Also if they are wanting to hit a cut, then you don't want to be out on the toe as it will cancel out that spin. Max workability will come from the center.
Hitting more than 1 good shot in a row helps, my biggest struggle
Does slightly towards the toe give it a slight draw bias? As always, great videos.
No it will slow the toe down and leads to more fade through face open tendency. Put it on the heel side for draw shape, but you might need up to 20 grams to feel the effect
Yes it can. Horizontal gear effect will impart draw spin.
@@kymstock1852 i think he's asking about strike, is your answer about lead tape position?
@@krusher74 yes it was. I think I misunderstood his question if he was referring to strike position, not weight position.
I have shortened my driver from 45.5in to 44.5in and have not adjusted swing weight i have lost a lot of distance can you guide me in right direction
Are you saying just choke down on the Driver grip until you gain control, or are you suggesting cutting down the shaft length from the butt end of the driver. Or are you suggesting that if you only have control choking down inches should you cut two inches of you shaft and choke down 2 inches? At what point does this method become an irreversible equipment modification?
Always start with choking down and see the results with that. If you decide you like that new length, you can always cut it down to make it permanent. The feel of the club choking vs cutting down will be very similar. Main difference is the grip will be slightly smaller when choking down because of the taper.
Does gripping down cost distance loss due to less speed & smaller arc? I understand the concept of shorter = control but is loss of distance worth it? 1 other thing; what about lie angle with a driver?
Theoretically you should find the center of the face more often and your smash factor should go up. The resulting extra ball speed should offset (or at least minimize) the consequences of a slightly lower clubhead speed.
I got fitted through pxg
All woods are shorter
$5000 later and they are sitting next to the furnace…
Got refitted at superstore and they couldn’t believe I was fitted in these..
Dog shit
Wish I had $5,000. I'd spend it all on golf. Maybe even get a new set of clubs. Wouldn't have to worry about being able to pay green fees in the coming months. Watch out for the foxes.
What are you supposed to do with this once you figure out length and weight please? Presume you then either cut shaft down and add permanent weight somehow or you buy a new shaft? Sorry if that’s a slightly noobish question but I presume people aren’t then just playing with lead tape stuck to their driver and gripping down. If there’s already a video on this a link would really help. Great content TY.
Correct. Once you find the "right" length, you can either cut the shaft down or just continue to grip down at that point. The results should be the same in either case as only real difference is the grip diameter gets smaller when gripping down on it vs cutting and holding grip at the end.
For weight, you can either get appropriate screw in or slider weights for your particular driver, or just stick with lead tape. Plenty of tour pros have lead tape all over their clubs.
@@EFGMC thanks for the response - interesting, I would never have thought the tape was a potential permanent solution.
@@silvo4880 Yeah, go find some pics from tour pros bags. Woods, irons, putters. You'll find tape on all of them.
What about adjustable weights? Some OEMs have interchangeable weights, you namely have to buy the kits. Can you get the swingweight up enough with those or do you need lead tape as well?
If you have a club with moveable weights and you have the right extra weights, by all means use them. Will just depend on the configuration of the club (new length and existing weights), as to whether you can get the appropriate amount of weight into the head using OEM or aftermarket weights.
I don’t think Srixon/Cleveland/XXIO has a heavy enough aftermarket weight to get the swingweight back up after gripping down the shaft.
@@shanejones8884 Some cases you will be stuck using lead tape or hot melt.
I have a 12 year old driver & need to know if a newer design, adjustable hozel, would be in order. I konw that .83 COR is the max so what would be the advantage
Perfect center hits, won't show much of any difference. Newer drivers in theory have a larger part of the face that allow for that max COR. Also modern drivers have figured out where to position the CG of the head to lower spin numbers for more distance. This is at least how it supposed to do.
👏👏👏
after all of the chocking down, is it then OK to cut down the shaft, or does that change things again???
You can by all means cut down the shaft if you want to make the change more permanent. The swing weight will change very slightly (not a noticeable amount). Only other change is that the grip size will change because of the grip taper. Choking down makes the grip slightly smaller.
This loses you clubhead speed, no? I realize that might not be the priority if you’re choking up on your driver, but I’m curious.
Yes, it might although not everyone will see the same change in speed. That said, the important number is ball speed so if the shorter shaft allows for more center contact, you could very well see equal if not better ball speed and hopefully more consistent speed.
Do we then cut the driver shaft down a couple inches?
Up to you. You can cut it, or just continue to grip down farther. Other than the grip diameter being smaller when gripping down, the feel and performance should be similar with both.
I play all my clubs at -1" . . . although I am 5'6" :)
Hi. I was wondering what driver length you would recommend for a person that’s 5’7” and with a wrist to floor of 30” ? Thanks for the advice.
Would probably go under 45 inches however it's really golfer dependent. If you can control and get more speed from longer (ie like Phil at 47.5 inches) then that can work. For most people though something like 44.5 should work better.
@@EFGMC perfect. Thanks for the advice.
After you choke up say 2 inches...and its right on for you... can you cut off those two inches in the butt of the shaft?
Yes. If you find that 2 inch inches shorter is best, you can just cut it. The result will be the same except the grip will be slightly thicker since you aren’t gripping down.
I have ping g driver with 7 gram weight could I change the weight to say a 12 or 16 gram?
Sure. Everyone reacts differently to weight and swing weight changes, so you just need to try it to see how it affects your impact.
I bet the simplicity of this video makes all the 'Gotta Have the Newest Technology Of Past 3 Months Driver' head's hurt. I mean come on, people... AI technology ?
and Star Warz Lazer graphics ! --> You're being conned by experts of cons (sales advertising) and enjoying it, but not getting better ever 😂
Looking to purchase a driver .. What is your advice for purchasing a driver? I had a 10 year layoff & started back golf during covid. I took a 7 iron and tried several shafts. I seem to be almost right b/t reg & stiff flex and currently using a DG R300 cut to where its half way b/t R300 and S300 flex. When using R300 as a reg flex I could feel it bending just before I make contact w/ the ball .. it wasn't a bad feeling just didn't know if I should feel that or not. Had descent results w/ the 7 iron using both R300 reg flex and R300 in b/t reg & stiff. S300 stiff flex had more inconsistent results. So, should I look for a similar flex in driver meaning half way b/t reg/stiff? Should I avoid the lighter driver shafts since the iron shafts are not light weight? Do you suggest any component heads or go for an older generation big name brand? Any advice appreciated.
The flex is really about how your body reacts to that flex feel. It sounds like a stiffer shaft causes some issues for you so I would stay softer.
Probably not a bad idea to get a 70g driver shaft to match up a little better with the irons. I think a heavier R flex would probably work pretty well. Of course there are no real standards for shaft flex so two different stiff shafts can be quite different.
As far as head goes, either option can work. Any driver head from the last 7 years will pretty much have all the same tech as today so it's more about just finding something you like the look of and practicing with it. Probably the most forgiving brands would be Taylormade, Callaway, and Ping. You can also find some inexpensive Cleveland drivers that are very good.
Foot spray smells !!! Tried it a few times but never again! Maybe chalk spray exist …
I hope you didn't hit that guy mowing on the driving range.
Higher on the face? For me, sky marks ... here they come. ;)
Can become a bit more of an issue. Luckily even a 1/4 inch movement up the face is more than enough to take advantage of the benefits.
@@EFGMC It's good to know. For 57 years I have been trying and mostly succeeding on hitting it dead center. Of course I spent my first ~20 years hitting it "on the screws" of persimmon. I musta missed the memo when we went to metal. ;)
@@cwmcclintock5757 Lots of people going retro now and putting those persimmon woods and muscle back irons back in play. Still using modern ball though.
@@EFGMC Ha. So I have been hearing, and over the last 40 years it HAS BEEN the balls. But I'm not a Luddite and going to try to hit drives with a driver head the size of my fist with a slightly long S300 for the shaft.;) Did that in the '80s,.. shirt, mug the works. I'm 21st Century, but only slightly. When I groove my (compliant) TM R580XD it goes the same as my TM R540TP. It's just kinder on the mishits. And yes, the TM Sim's high flying knuckle balls go further on a launch monitor, and yes, science engineering has somehow mildly enhanced mishit forgiveness since 2001.Yet, IMHO, you are dead solid perfect. Decade after decade, EVERYONE has made everything way more complicated (and of course more net expensive) than it needs to be. IMHO2, the massive business of golf is going to kill the current resurgence of golf with $500 drivers with $350 shafts. Great work. I'm checkin' out the rest of your vids tonight. Expect some flattering comments. ;)
@@cwmcclintock5757 Totally agree. The fact that these fitters can get people to pay $800-$1000 for a driver!! That is only bad for the game no matter how you look at it.
Thanks for supporting the channel!
So if I was to add 3 inches on my driver I would have to make it the head lighter?
3 inches would move the swing weight up 20 points approx. so a D2 driver would be F2. You might be able to handle the feel of that weight, won’t know until you try. The problem I noticed was the shaft just felt too loose when at that length. I dropped the head weight and the shaft felt better. Could also step up a flex and see what that does.
I did a video on building a 48 inch driver you might want to check out. My first vote would be to use a head with weight screws so you can easily change the head weight.
@@EFGMC banks of what the response I've been using a 48 inch driver for a little over 2 years ,weirdly enough my accuracy i went up but I'm finding it hard to keep it the spin numbers down
@@willmc2456 Would really focus on your impact position on the face and see if you are catching it low.
So basically cut 1/2" to 1" of all your clubs and you will hit the ball better......seriously ?
Maybe. I can't say what will work for someone else. That's the whole point. You need to see if changing these things actually improves your impact quality and consistency. I just show you the how.
Omg...this is ridiculous. Stop selling the band aid and sell the cure! Go get fit. A shit shaft, head combo match will never be accurate, regardless of where you grip it or try to strike the ball. You should never change yourself to match the equipment. Shaft flex, droop, bend profile, torque equates to a better strike. Not choking down and using foot spray. Folks do your homework
You are a genius. En argentina te diría q groso sos