I wired it to the brights switch on my stunt bike since i run an LED light bar/street fighter build. Swapped the 15amp fuse for a 30A fuse. Tried hardwiring it to the battery with a switch but wheelies, endos, and drifts seem to work it loose fast.. even with solder and heat shrink
I don't understand why people do this, It's unnecessary and a drain on the battery, surely a manual override switch is better so you don't have to use it cooler weather, plus I reckon the extra drain on the battery probably uses a smidgen of performance to keep the battery topped up via the alternator, not to mention wear and tear on the fan motor..
I understand what your saying but the stator moves with the rpms of the engine so the is no strain on the battery cause its alwyas being charged it just my buke would red line before the fan kicked on and only stayed on for les than a min i wanted to wier up the switch to turn it on but i wasn't sure how to have it come on if i had forgot to turn it on
@@TheRealQuagMeyer The bike is safe to run after about 2 mins of idle. All the rad/fan does is cool the head/piston. It just needs to get oil and fluids moving for the first 2 mins.
You shouldn't have ANYTHING hooked directly to the battery, you'll end up with a drawl in the end that you wont be able to figure out, find the original power to the fan and pull the switch off of it.
![Overheating Motorcycle | Blown Fan Fuse [SOLVED!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kw11Onl7OLQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Overheating Motorcycle | Blown Fan Fuse [SOLVED!]](/img/tr.png)
I wired it to the brights switch on my stunt bike since i run an LED light bar/street fighter build. Swapped the 15amp fuse for a 30A fuse. Tried hardwiring it to the battery with a switch but wheelies, endos, and drifts seem to work it loose fast.. even with solder and heat shrink
That's a good idea definitely better so it's not on 24/7
Alright I'm do this today.
I use scissors all the time.. and a bic lighter to melt the casing, better than wire strippers... lol
Yeehaw 🤠
I don't understand why people do this, It's unnecessary and a drain on the battery, surely a manual override switch is better so you don't have to use it cooler weather, plus I reckon the extra drain on the battery probably uses a smidgen of performance to keep the battery topped up via the alternator, not to mention wear and tear on the fan motor..
I understand what your saying but the stator moves with the rpms of the engine so the is no strain on the battery cause its alwyas being charged it just my buke would red line before the fan kicked on and only stayed on for les than a min i wanted to wier up the switch to turn it on but i wasn't sure how to have it come on if i had forgot to turn it on
It will significantly raise the amount of time it takes to reach operating temperatures for sure
@@TheRealQuagMeyer The bike is safe to run after about 2 mins of idle. All the rad/fan does is cool the head/piston. It just needs to get oil and fluids moving for the first 2 mins.
@@thebikerbrit1311 um no a radiator cools the engine,. If your engine isnt at operating temp there will be a power difference
Your bike will never hate you for having a fan on but off
Can’t see anything you’re doing. No idea what wires you cut.
You shouldn't have ANYTHING hooked directly to the battery, you'll end up with a drawl in the end that you wont be able to figure out, find the original power to the fan and pull the switch off of it.