How to Burn Down Your Model Railway | Train Motor Meltdowns
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- Опубліковано 28 січ 2020
- Ever had a motor failure on your model railway? I have!
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That was very interesting Sam, and clearly shows that despite the wonderful detail achieved in today's models, without powerful and reliable motors, then it all a waste of money...Bob
Yeah you're right Bob - I've never been a fan of these daft little motors ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
5:57 smoke from the cab windows, you say
you sure it broke down? driver and fireman might just be on a overly long smoke break, it'd explain the smell ;)
haha darn it - that must be what happened! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
either that, or SUPER realistic firebox detail!
Me: Anything can be a smoke machine if you operate it wrong enough.
Sam with that motor: *S t o n k s*
haha I agree with that whole heartedly! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
How to burn down your model railway:
'they had is in the first half, not gonna lie'
Good video Sam!
You spoiled the video
haha! ;D
The 14XX was just trying to go thermonuclear like Godzilla 😂
This was both fun to watch and interesting, keep that railway safe my friend ^^
As somebody who's been inspired to potentially start my own model railway collection some day, your channel definitely is useful for things like what models to avoid and maintaining the ones I do get, given they require a lot more maintenance than I would have initially thought. Excellent work!
No one:
Not a single soul:
Sam:
*HOW TO BURN DOWN YOUR MODEL RAILWAY*
haha exactly!! ;D
I thought I was going blind because I couldn't see any smoke. But then I realised my brightness was low so I turned it up. Very interesting and handy video Sam thanks
haha yeah - it was tricky to see on camera!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Me at the end there: this seems really stupid and dumb
Sam: "let's leave the rag there and see it it sets 🔥"
Me: oh wow Sam has gone mental
The GWRailfan Not the only one thinking that!
haha!! ;D
Sam is the only one that can keep me entertained while he fixes a train
Awhh that's lovely to hear!! :D
Merry Christmas - Sam :)
Great video Sam! I just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice instructional video. Love your train collection, it's awesome! 👍
Great video Sam 👍
I like the investigation into why it happened
And of course the fact you’re not frightened to have ago
Or try things out
Keep it up👍😊
Thanks a lot Jon - glad you enjoyed the sciency bit, haha! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
One of my Bachmann 2-8-0s was running and it stopped on a curve and I saw smoke coming from underneath the drivers and turned it off right away luckily I was able to replace the motor and get it working again but then a week later the side rods got messed up while it was running and I’m not sure how to fix it so I was thinking about sending it over to see if you could fix it. Great video by the way. Thanks, Rails Of The East Coast
When Sam says meltdown you know it’s good to pay attention to him
haha absolutely!! ;D
Great video Sam I have had a couple of motors break on me
Thanks David, sorry to hear that :(
I've had an 0-8-0 that sparked and pored out smoke like it had a smoke machine in it. I was fine and it was fixed
@@fawnathefox9600 *T h e r m o n u c l e a r*
Loved the video, thanks for uploading I’ll be careful in future
- Ollie
haha no worries Ollie! :D
SAM - Great experiment ! interesting results. You should do a video on how to add a mini fan and heat dissipation fins !
Keep up the great videos, you do more for us than just review the new products !
Thanks for the video sam didnt know too much about the open motors learned a lot
Thanks mate, glad you found it interesting! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The closest I had was decoder burnout due to poor wiring and soldering from Hornby. Was surprised that your experience has seen bachmann with more motor issues. Very interesting to watch and most enjoyable. Most of all hobby safe Sam. Clint
Oh yeah I've had that once or twice before - decoders blowing up - but yes, many Bachmann failures in my experience!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Spectacular stuff Sam, could almost smell that 'cooking' from here! Great video, many thanks.
haha thanks Mike, apologies for the smell ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Me: *looks at the thumbnail*
Also me: NOOO! OLIVERRRR!
haha it's okay - I fixed him! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Liked that, nice to learn why these are always failing. Great video Sam 👍
Thanks George, glad you found it interesting mate! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam! I was dying for a tutorial how to burn down my railway. This helped!
Lol 😂
Glad to hear that mate - good luck! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam, he was being serious.
Kayla XD
As I've just bought a second hand class 58 I found that VERY interesting! Thanks Sam top job.
haha yeah - just don't overload it! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam. Great video. Don’t know how I missed it before. Anyway, very interesting. Can’t believe half an amp could do that.
Keep up these great videos. Even if a few/most don’t cause sparks.
Thanks John - yes you're right - you can generate a lot of heat though a small amount of current!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam you are so helpful. My dad has died now but my earliest memory is sitting up in the attic with my dad as he cleaned and ran his huge 00 gauge. My mother making and painting buildings. I love all sorts of railways real and model. Love your videos and have subscribed.....Jayne😊🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂
Sorry to hear about your dad, but great that you have so many memories - thanks a lot for subscribing! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I'm not there yet. however i did " visit" a loco hobby shop. i learn a lot watching your video. your very easy to listen to. i connect to your style of explanation.. it works for me anyway.... 👍
Sounds good John - better plan one or two more 'visits' - really glad you like these anyway! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Excellent video Sam,my Hornby Q1 caught fire because the link rod below the smokebox detached itself from the motion and caused a short circuit.This was spectacular as there were flames and smoke in seconds which melted the locomotive body on that side. I removed the locomotive and put the fire out,luckily the mechanism and sound chip were ok.This was a brand new locomotive so this should not have happened, I fitted a new body to the locomotive and did not refit the link rod as the earlier models did not have it.
Crikey Tony, that sounds really dramatic - I've often had loose crankpins on models from Hornby!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam great video as usual I have only one problems with your videos they are to short I wish they were longer a lot longer . They are so entertaining and I learn a lot about my favorite hobby it is nice to see others so interested in this hobby. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks Louis - the next one should be longer! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
my hornby triang mallard started smoking today! It was terrifying but luckily I could turn everything off before stuff got serious.
My Bachman Thomas has a similar open frame motor, and when I went to service it, it had this green gunk in it! Even stranger, the loco had been running fine with it there for who’s knew how long, and after I removed most of the goo, it still ran perfectly!
Yeah they do have a similar motor - that was probably some lubricant - it should run better now that's not inside the motor ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Yeah even my Bachmann FT once smoked then 3 years later the gears cracked.
I decided to junk it, I kept the chassis for a future metal casting project.
Blimey that doesn't sound good - definitely worth keeping it for parts though! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
1:06 I spy a classic which was the one that got me to buy MY Triang 3F and subscribe to your channel ;) Really glad to see that the fail didn't originate from one of those, I know they get a bit of a rep for 'looking' dangerous with the Back-to-the-future arcing on the wheels when running sometimes. Great video, Sam!
haha fantastic - glad you like that, and thanks for subscribing! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam. Good video as always. I've had a lot of problems over the years with hornby motors hence now all my locomotives are bachmann. I do however have a good tip. When oiling the motors I use a sewing needle to dip in the oil when lubricating the end bearing. That way its almost impossible to over lubricate and no risk to the commutator. My oldest locomotives are sixteen years old and still on original motors including the brushes. Keep up the good work. Chris.
Thanks a lot Chris, sorry to hear that - yes that's a good tip - I do only use a tiny amount of oil!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Weirdly enough I actually my Triang class 37 had the same issue with what look liked blimmin thermite. I had sent you an email about it but this answers my question very nicely!
haha really?! I've never known that happen with a tri-ang! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Goodness gracious me. I've actually got several loco's with that motor luckily I've never experienced such events. Very interesting and informative :D
Glad to hear that - I should say I have many that haven't failed too - it's not like they all blow up! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Me: **reads the title**
Also me: What kind of dangerous yet creative antics is our Sam up to now? 😂
Nice vid Sam, time for me to binge watch all of your crazy experiment videos 🤣
haha awesome mate - hope you enjoy this one! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Oddly enough, the exact same thing happened to my 14xx earlier on this afternoon, probably for the same reason. Not totally burnt out though, it still runs but intermittently. I've sent off for a replacement motor and I will check out the old one to see if it's repairable. Nice video. 🙂👍
Blimey sorry to hear that mate - the motors are good and cheap aren't they? Though that's probably the issue ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Yes a very good price. £4 plus just under £2 p&p. I hope that doesn't reflect a sign of the quality. 🤔
Very enjoyable.....I had a similar experience with my first train set.....dad was not pleased...haha
haha what happened mate?!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
My wrenn coronation class just caught fire
@@SamsTrains oh god, I have an similar engine
I like your new intro! It must have been a hell of a job animating that!
Thanks a lot mate - it's a template, so I don't have to reanimate it every time! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Should have titled this “how to tell Hornby to use good motors “ lol :) love your vids
Good video
haha, that would have been better, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Lolbee-SFM thank you very much I appreciate it;)
I love the X03 X04 motors. They are so Easy to maintain.
Even I know how to Fix that motor..!! Dad taught me..!
Good video. Oldie but a Goodie..!😎
Another great video, Sam. Thank you.
Thanks a lot Jacob, appreciate it mate! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
I didn't have any motor fails on my railway and I had it for 7 years.🚂
Nice video.
Great to hear that mate - lucky you! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Interesting video! I once had a dcc blanking plate melt on my Hornby K1 had to send it back for repairs smelt awful lots of smoke!
Thanks Ryan - blimey I've never heard of that before, scary stuff! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam I am relieved to see you didn't hurt yourself. You are very brave!
Are you mad with me Sam? Why are you not replying? :(
haha not at all - I've just been getting a lot more comments recently! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I bought the Airfix version of the 14xx recently, exclusively for a replica "Titfield Thunderbolt" train, and because it didn't cost too much - The motor seems alright, though the mechanism squeals quite badly in reverse. The motor failure on your more modern one is, er, definitely something spectacular.
Ahh yeah - have you tried giving it a bit of a service? The motors on the older models did seem to be better!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I've had the loco as far apart as I could get it, seems a lot of the Airfix stuff have totally sealed drive units, though it does run well enough forward for what was roughly £20. Could potentially be something to do with the brushes, not completely sure.
I have an old 70's 00 gauge Kays kit in white metal for the Bayer Garret with the rotary coal bunker. What is the best motor for it and where from please ? Also the drive wheels are plastic.
I need some metal replacement ones but where from ?
I have five locomotives that had motor burnouts. Two happened during normal operation, one happened when the plastic drive shafts jammed, and two were from just trying to get the engine to move again (like you did, but these locos haven't burned out previously). All of them were used models except for one Bachmann diesel I got new back in 2011
Most of my motor burnouts happened with "pancake" motors from various manufacturers and various ages.
That's quite a lot mate - and yes I've seen one or two pancake failures :/
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I'm 35,000 miles away and eight months in the future and yet I can still smell the motor burning... Oh wait that's just my dremel
haha!! My dremel stinks sometimes too - think it's the stuff I'm cutting, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Very interesting Sam, Thanks.
Thanks a lot mate, glad you liked it! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
It’s amazing that is all it took to cook that motor, a short stall. Will that kill bigger ones that are not open frame? Maybe even brushless types of motor?
I know - not very durable was it? I haven't tried this on other motors, though maybe I should! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam, Nice review , Thanks for the demo , Will keep it in mind not to overload things , Would it happen on DCC ????, All the Best Brian 🤗
Cheers Brian! On DCC, the decoders would blow up rather than the motors ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi sam, i recently got some motors from amazon, they’re made by acompany called utax, they’re small enough to fit inside a locomotive, they run at 24000 RPMs, will they work for my projects? They only came with a plastic mounting bracket, how do i put them in a locomotive? Do i have to do any soddering to make it work?,i’m trying to avoid using a sodering gun because i can’t see, so the risk of being burned is very hi for me, is there a way to make the motors run without using heat?
Your videos are brilliant and you should see and smell what happens to a full size diesel- electric loco after a traction motor or the resistor failer it goes Bang in a Big way ! Lol I was in a class 73 electro- diesels engine room when we had this happen once , keep up the good work .
Thanks so much Ian - I bet that must be quite a frightening event - does it happen often?! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains not that often Thank goodness lol
Takes me back to "tuning" slot car motors back in the 60's, many similar problems albeit subjected to much heavier abuse !!!
Ahh yes - I've certainly had a few slotcar burnouts in my time too ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam. Great video once again! What soldering iron do you use? - 9.50 min.
GWR
Thanks a lot mate - I'm not sure about that, I'll have to check!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
AHHH it seems my problem with my Hornby B12 is solved. This same motor was factory fitted to my B12 when I purchased it well over 10 years ago. It ran well for nearly a year then due to life getting in the way it was packed away in the original box in a plastic storage tub with the rest of my loco's. A while back I decided to build a layout for my Grandson and, lo and behold when the B12 was placed on the track and power applied it would not run and instead it sat there and emitted an acrid smell and smoke. So not being that confident to strip the loco and motor down and, only this week after watching and getting inspired by your videos I pulled the loco down and dismantled the motor. I thoroughly cleaned everything and what did I find the brushes gone as with your motor but not as bad. In fact I could find no evidence that there ever were any brushes. The only contact with the commutator were the brass fingers that would have held the brushes. All I can deduce from this is that the materials used to make the brushes was so sub standard as to be absolutely useless for the purpose or a very poor quality control issue allowed this model to slip through. I had previously purchased a new motor ( Poweline P1232A ( mk3) from E Bay which was not cheap and will now fit that. I did manage to get the original motor to run again but without the brushes it is totally useless as a spare. What I can't figure out is why did Hornby put these pathetic substandard motors into the B12 and not something more robust such as an XO3 or similar??? At least I can buy XO3's in bulk quite cheaply. So unless I can find a mount to take an XO3 or similar I will be stuck with paying $18.95 or 9.47 English pounds each so quite an expensive exercise. This will now ensure this loco does not get much running time as it will end up being to expensive to maintain. I will contact Hornby to see what they can do but am not hopeful of any sort of positive outcome other than a note saying they received my E Mail.
I don't own a single model train but i watch your videos and I love it
Glad to hear you like the videos - hope you can get into the hobby one day! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I can’t wait for the next How to Burn Down Your Model railway episode! I wonder what’s next, perhaps it will be by having a very faulty engine’s engine explode?
haha I don't know that yet - depends what fails next ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
As of your question of if there was any smoke when the motor failed, there wasn't but there was sparks! (Locos was Tri-ang Jinty from garage sale before being oiled)
Ahh dear - yes I've seen it happen many a time :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Yours must be the only model railway channel that needs Smelly Telly to fully appreciate it. Loved it when you said "it's tatered" (not sure how you spell that). Not heard anyone say that since was a kid!
haha not sure you'd want to smell that to be honest! haha yeah - don't know where I pulled that word from, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I once over-sped a pannier and it blew up. Thing is it was a really old and unclean Mainline engine.
Luckily I could salvage the engine and now it’s a motorless shell on a display shelf.
Ooh yeah those mainline ones are famously unreliable! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
This was only recently but I was running in a spare Hornby Thomas chassis, it made it round the curve for the 10th time and as soon as it hit the points it just snap crackle popped and spat smoke everywhere in a comedic fashion! Doesn't seem to run but tries to, I think a fault was one of the brushes was bent wrong
It'd be interesting to see a video on the few of us that get burned out on model railroading. I packed my locos and layout up awhile back and I just haven't had the drive to restart. It seems to be a common problem anymore, or it is here stateside.
haha that's a very different take - I wouldn't know anything about that, I still love model railways! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
My nephew managed to set fire to my Hornby First Great Western barbie HST when he was 2. The powercar roof melted, then immediately burst into flames.
None of my locos have ever done this, but I do have a 'pocket rocket' style 0-4-0 that sparks like anything on my second hand track, no matter how much track rubbering I do. I am always a bit nervous of using it!
Glad to hear that mate - haha yeah, some older locos can spark, it's generally nothing to worry about!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
About a year ago, I bought a loco from the 1980’s from a train fair, and it was in good physical shape, but at higher speeds its wheels would spark like crazy. I stored it somewhere and I haven’t run it since.
Some locos do that - a bit of sparking around the wheels isn't too bad!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I like to know how many tank steam engines compared to tender engines do you have?
Me: Just casually taking my Class 350 for a spin and sees this video.
Me: Class 43, you're gonna have to become the man of the rails.
haha!! ;D
Good news is, my only loco I now have with one of these is my pacer and that only has its second coach to pull :)
That is good news - the Pacers do tend to work really reliably! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Just like in real life ;)
Excellent video Sam. It does seem, in general....that the smaller the engine....the smaller the motor....but you would think they'd be a little bit more powerful and durable than that. Interesting failure....and yep, there's an old saying...it's not the voltage that kills you...it's the current. It's almost as if they should place "recommended" pull--loads in the manual (i.e. 5 cars, 8 cars, no more than 10 cars for any long duration...etc.). What is interesting is that on your layout, you don't have any major inclines for the locos to go up....so truth be told, your locos have a pretty decent "lifestyle"....especially compared to some of the other big layouts with hills , etc. I've seen on UA-cam.
Yeah that seems to be true - these really aren't much good though as you can see! Recommended pull loads is a very cool thought actually!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
H Sam. If you don’t mind me asking, how did you create your awesome intro.
I drew and animated it from scratch - there's a video tutorial on my members playlist, if you wanted to join! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have the exact same 14xx and the same thing happened to mine. It was fairly new as well.
Ahh sorry to hear that - it's terrible isn't it??
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Are the brushes fragmenting and shorting out the armature?
I'm in North America, and I've seen that style of open frame motor in a lot of slot cars, but not model locomotives. (20 years working at a toy and hobby store.)
I wondered that - possibly! I didn't realise they were using the same thing in slot cars - strange, since they don't seem to like getting thrashed! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam,
Those tiny motors remind me of the Faller AMS racing cars from the 60's.. Way too small for a loco.
haha I agree - they're way too underpowered!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam
One of the reason can be your pulse power supply. Those motors were not designed for the power what you supply can deliver ( PWM or just a thyristor chopped 50 Hz). Most of the pulse power packs always deliver in pulse with modulation (PWM) the maximum power to the motor. This method overheats the commutator and the coils ( the commutator has to interrupt and turn on always the maximum voltage from the power supply. ). This method is even more dangerous for coreless motors because of lower heat dissipation capacity.)
In old fashion filtered DC power packs the maximum voltage is present only at maximum power ( when you run your trains at maximum speed - how often is this the case? ).. One of the possible solutions is to reduce the voltage what goes into your power packs. ( in DCC for eg to 10-12 V). In your GM power pack it is more complex issue.
Just an example. The commutator on a 6000 RPM 3 pole motor interrupts the power 200 times per second (200 Hz) only on highest speed. Every interruption creates a spark and heat. When you use a pulse power supply from GM it adds another 50 or 100 interruption independently from the motor speed, on top of that always with the highest possible voltage ( power). This overheats the commutator and the coils, and finally kills those simple motors.
Hey Sam - I thought your suppose to see smoke come from that kind of Loco - after all - it is a Steam Engine!!! ;) lol
haha, if only!! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I know I you feel Sam. I’m from America and I have a dock switcher made from a company called Lionel I got it on Christmas Day I believe it was 2017. I was running it around my Christmas tree, it was only pulling about like 2 cars. But then I realized it was slowing down. I shut it off and it smelled really bad. Turns out that the motor and the reversing unit was burned out. My dad tried to find new parts but he could not find the motor. It hasn’t ran since. 😔
Cheers Matthew - sorry to hear about that - that definitely sucks :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I got opposite experiences with little DC motors in model railways (scale H0) or construction kits. In case of a blockade they consume always their maximum of current, but did not exceed 0,7 A. Common and intended use leads to not more than 0,3 up to 0,4 A in maximum. The small motor type you tested in your video I rather found in N scale models. When voltage applied gets too high and the motor runs freely without any load especially the smaller types begin to make a squeaking noise after a short time and have to get replaced.
It is a very bad idea to get "plenty of oil in the bearings" of a motor. E.g. brass bearings have an internal structure allowing them to keep lubrication for a long time due to capillar effects, these types of bearings work a bit like a sponge. If you apply too much oil the lubrication just flies away quickly and make the bearings running dry. The manufacturer of my model locos (H0) (and many others) advises his customers to apply not more (!) than just one small drop of recommended oil on each bearing, for the newer motors they do not want to have any lubrication at all. If the oil reaches the brushes the (always present) arcing converts it into a mixture of coal and tar. Coal conducts electricity and can short the commutator, tar isolates and can prevent the motor from any movement electrically or mechanically.
I have an old Triang 0-6-0 saddle tank engine and after I bought it I noticed a smell, but I put it down to not being ran for ages, then I saw smoke coming out the cab, I investigated and its a part of the commutator is where the smoke is coming from, I didn't run it, so it wouldn't ruin the motor, I'm hoping to get it checked out at my model railway club :)
Yeah that's pretty common with a tri-ang - just give it a clean up, fresh oil, and it'll be fine! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains oh ok, thank you for your advice :)
When motors over heat, the insulation on the wires that make up the windings in the motor softens or melts an electrical short usually develops, sometimes with an exciting show.
That's absolutely true - I should have measured the windings on the failed motor, that would have been interesting!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The wire 'windings' looked fine in the video. The commutator was the problem. I always think to run them in a bit at first. It would be an interesting experiment to monitor the current when adding one carage at a time.
You know what they say Sam... once you let the smoke out it never works the same again! Interesting video though. Good job.
haha you're right - very true!! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
So I watched this video at about 3pm and guess what happened at about half 7? The type m motor in my pug went. Cant find any of them anywhere... where did you get the spare ones? Thanks :)
Wow, that's really bad luck! I got mine on Ebay - do a search for Hornby Type 7 - good luck mate!!
Happy New Year - Sam :)
My Hornby Terrier ( Chinese but 20 odd years old) says on the box "Designed for shunting and not for long running." Are those Hornby motors Sam or can you get cheaper versions?
Yeah they're Hornby ones - though cheaper ones are probably available! Does it really say that on the old Hornby box? That's ludicrous!! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Nice video Sam, I would never want that to happen to my model railway, hey I have a question, I have a model railway that is only hornby locos it’s supposed to be my British railway layout, but I’m thinking of making a new layout that is only Bachman locos and that is gonna be only locos from America, mainly diesels, but I was just wondering if ur able to put a Bachman loco on a hornby track and be able to run it with a normal controller cause if so then I’m using hornby tracks for mine.
haha me neither really! Yes OO or HO Bachmann locos will work fine on Hornby track! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains ok thanks that’s really good to know cause the Bachman track isn’t really that good but the hornby is way more realistic so imma use that instead:D
I lost a Bachmann Edward due to a burnt motor. It's kinda thankful I've replaced it with a Hornby one now.
Yeah I'm not surprised to hear that - they're pretty bad motors :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Actually kind of helpful really didn’t expect them to be overloaded so easily
I tried an old triang 0-4-0 not realising how old it was. it cause the track to spark, and at the moment it started smoking I took it off the track straight away, I never used it again. But I still have it on my shelf next to my fireplace ( rather ironically )
Sorry to hear that mate - they often need a bit of a service to run well, though the sparks are quite normal!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Occasionally, the motor on my bachmann n scale u36b will start glowing bright yellow like a light near the motor brushes. She's old and sat unused with a missing brush spring for almost 20 years, it doesn't have too many hours on it.
I ran my Hornby set so much and one day when I was younger the motor soon smelt of burning and stopped working. It went in bin.
Oh uh that's not good - sorry to hear about that :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Yea my wethered hornby LNER 0-6-0 doesnt work and when I try and run it I smell burning paint and it was wethered by hornby from the factory!
The first train you showed the grey one I have that and it has problems too :(
14xx's are one of my favourite steam locos... Shame nobody does a great off the shelf version 🤔
I to had a similar issue with the old hornby terrier. Bought it from the bluebell railway and straight from the box it was smoking
Sorry to hear that Barry - at least it wasn't just me!! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
This happened to me today, was testing a hornby minitrix 9f that somehow ended up in canada and the motor caught fire, i can still smell the burning smell
Thanks again for the information, I learned something new again. I seen you had 5 coaches and a brake van when the disaster happened, I have a Terrier with two plank wagons and a Van. If I purchase three or four more wagons to add on, do you think that would be overloading the locomotive. I also took the time to learn to spell a word you used "Effervescence", A good learning day all the way around.
It's a pleasure Peter - is it one of the new terriers? I'm not aware of this issue with any of the new ones!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Ok, good news, because it is a new one. Hornby # R3811.
so how does this motor perform compared to a basic can motor of similiar voltage?
That'll be the next question - I could try a comparison! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Just got a used Broadway Limited Imports Pennsylvania GG1 last week, it stopped running a few days after I got it. I opened it up today and found out the pick up wires on one side of the engine have fried. Working on replacing them now, hoping it works out.
Ahh that's not good mate - sorry to hear about that :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains It’s all good, I actually brought it back to life last night. Thanks for the support.
There is a component of the drive force which pushes the worm away from the drive gear which can deflect the motor axle which also will heat the bearings.
does anyone know if you can DCC fit that kind of hornby 14xx?