I'm a toyota tech and I just want to inform folks that when taking the cam tray off you can simply undo the 12mm bolts and the cams will stay in the tray with the 10mm. You can then lift the entire assembly out. Saves time and keeps everything together.
I have an '07 Tundra with this 5.7l, it has 337,000 miles and counting on the original engine, and original transmission. I've towed with it quite a bit too. Driven all across the country and a bit of off-road use too when I went camping down back trails in western states. I change the oil every 5k miles on the dot. Doesn't burn a drop. Great engine, really one of the most solid modern trucks.
No doubt, the Toyota 5.7 is probably the best engine you could get in a half ton truck for the last 15 years. Sure they are bad on gas but i would take ultra reliable over a little extra fuel economy every day of the week.
@Helicopter Dad! Dude I've owned several fords, a Mopar product, a Volvo, etc. In my lifetime. My Toyota truck has been one of my favorites. But I'm absolutely not an elitist who would claim Toyota is somehow better than everyone else. I've just had a good experience.
@Helicopter Dad! Nobody ever said they do not break or cannot break. Bottom line is in the half ton segment that engine has a way better track record than the big 3 for reliability and in the case of GM and all the AFM lifter issues they have had since 2008 its not even close. FWIW, Not a Toyota fanboy either. I don't own one and probably never will since they don't make a a truck that fits my towing needs... I just don't have any issue giving credit where its due.
@Helicopter Dad! Dude did you miss the part where i said i don't own one and never will? I will tell you what i have owned tho, 3 late model GM's 2 with 6.2's and one 5.3 that ate AFM lifters pretty early in their lives that required complete engine swaps and one Ford ecoboost that needed an engine after a cam phaser failure. Both of these are well documented issues that continue to plague these engines. Ram has issues with lifters and cams too, also very well documented. What issues are well documented for the Toyota 5.7? Its bad on gas....
@Helicopter Dad! Those numbers don't mean much when you dont actually see the breakdown of truck models. Those numbers for the big 3 also include 3/4 and 1 ton trucks which they all sell more of than they do half ton models. They also don't put things like displacement on demand in the 3/4T and up trucks so things like the GM and ram cam and lifter issues simply do not plague those trucks. Also real hard to compare a HD diesel to a light duty gasser.... Sorry if the fact that the Toyota 5.7 is more durable than what the big 3 currently puts out makes you so butthurt but its the truth. GM destroyed a great engine line in the LS with displacement on demand and RAM did the same with the Hemi. Those motors were awesome until they decided 5% better fuel economy was more important than durability. The 5.0 Ford is decent but they do have a little reputation for head gaskets. If i were buying a half ton today that F150 with a 5.0 would probably be my choice. I don't trust the small displacement turbo's that seem to be the trend.
@@tylergronk-wd9dxagreed. I own few, and have owned and replaced quite few over time. Never not a single problem with 4.7 Just regular maintenance and timing belts and pumps with new rollers and tensioners from dealer only. I do labor myself, but buy OEM parts only. Also have the 5.7L , didn’t put enough miles yet, but it’s an animal, tows almost like diesel.
@@alexkaban7860I once got stuck in my company’s 18 on some soft sand, a tundra was passing by, he saw me struggling but I didn’t budge. he offered some help I’m like telling that thing will hurt itself towing this bigrig. I was wrong it didn’t even sweat one bit, it pulled me out with ease. long live Toyota!!
I'm retired. Don't do much anymore. Just want you to know how much I enjoy your videos, and accompanying monologs. I never fail to check my oil anymore. Congratulations on the new baby.
I just wanted to say thank you for another wonderful engine teardown video sir. I've been turning wrenches now for 60 years & I've seen more catastrophic engine failures now than ever before. Many people refuse to take care of their vehicles until the big bang hits home. I always say you can pay me now or pay a lot later, Everyone please enjoy the labor day weekend, TMP from N.J.
I’ll have to agree. It doesn’t help the oems are pushing for longer intervals, and we have more and more people driving that aren’t exactly on top of maintenance.
I think the increase in failures has to do with car companies suggesting longer longer oil change intervals. I remember when 8000kms started and seemed too long. Now you hear companies saying 12000kms or more. I’ll do mine every 6 months or 5000kms no mater what they say. Thank you very much.
Man I love these tear downs. I own a 2007 Toyota Tundra sr5 5.7l with 140,000 miles on her. I change my oil every 5,000 and it still looks clean but i don't care cause she hasn't ever let me down. I have owned Ford's, GM, and Chevy's. I have always had to work on them constantly. I watched my older sister purchase a Toyota Camry. An in ten years all she did was put 3 sets of tires, brakes 3 times, and 1 battery. Heck I went to the Auto Show one year looking at the Denali and was really thinking about purchasing one. I took my sister and wife with me. All I wanted to see was the Denali and I did. Then my sister says she wants to see the new Camry. Me I started laughing like you and that Toyota Camry. 😂 So we goes over to the Toyota display to see the Camry. So something told me to go check out the trucks. When I got inside the Tundra I knew that I had to have one. I left outta that Auto Show searching that same night online for one. In 2 days I located one and I went to the dealer and bought it. When I tell you that the Tundra sr5 5.7l is a amazing truck. I will not buy another. Heck one man put a million miles on not 1 but 2 Toyota Tundra. Not if that doesn't make you want a dependable truck I don't know what to tell you. 🤷 Great video.
Love my tundra. I was gonna get a chevy for the gas mileage benefits but I compared the maintenance costs between the two and with the amount I drive and the dependability I need the tundra was a no Brainer. Sat for a bit before I bought it but had a local mechanic that owns and works on a lot of tundras do a decent run through it and did some light work on it. Been awesome besides a few little things. Royal purple oil does wonders for this thing recommend spending a little extra on it
@@quitmanwhitsey6320 2006 4.3 with close to 300,000. I no won’t buy another vehicle if it isn’t a Toyota and isn’t a Tundra. Best truck I’ve ever owned. Regular maintenance and keeps running. Just replaced the last original U joint.
@@joelmora2826 I know I'm not. Truck runs way better with royal purple than it ever did with mobil 1. It was definitely neglected by its previous owner needs a little extra love. Ticks like a mfer with cheap oil, sounds healthy with royal purple. That oil is the real deal
Btw, to anyone working on dohc engines, the cams can "jump" like that because of valve spring pressure trying push a pair or more valves closed. To get it to not do that you can either rotate the engine so that all the valves are closed or close to closed or, after releasing the chain tensioners, loosen all the cam caps gradually in the reverse order they're instaled in. This releases the tension gradually. It probably won't hurt you but a cam jumping at the wrong time can knock tools out of your hand or potentionally pinch you fingers in the chain/sprockets.
I did my own clearances on a Kawasaki Ninja 300 and (I'm an absolute novice ) you start it all at TDC by the book and this means you have at least one of the cam caps under pressure. It was quite an eye opener but I muddled through.
It amazes me that some people still won't change their oil, especially today. I am a retired law enforcement officer after 31 years. I say that to say that even 30 plus years ago, when oil wasn't as good and engines weren't as reliable as they are today, we changed oil at 5,000 miles and back then, used Havoline. All of our fleet were Ford C/Vs with 351s. Even on that schedule with wide open pursuit driving to extended idling, we almost never had an oil related engine failure. Today's cars, even tell you when to change the oil and even at a 10,000 mile interval, you'd be safe. I just don't get what's so hard about it...
Unfortunately, most people today have zero mechanical competence. You ask the average Joe or Jane what his/her vehicle's oil change interval is, and you'll get the ten thousand mile stare. BTW, thank you Ray and Old Veteran for your service to our country. I can't say "Semper Fi" but I can put my hand on my heart.
Anyone telling you that 10,000 mile oil changes are ok either knows nothing about internal combustion engines or wants to be able to sell you your next car when engine in yours gives up.
@@bwalker4194 that heavily depends on the engine and use case though. My last car (2011 Fusion w/ 2.5L NA) specified 10k changes. I followed Ford's recommended intervals and the engine ran perfectly fine until I sent the entire car to the junkyard at 321,000 mi for a major transmission failure. At the end of its life it was burning between 4 and 8 oz of oil over a 10,000 mile interval and was still as happy as the day I bought it with 37,000 miles on it to be revved all the way up to the red line.
Congratulations on being a new daddy I’m really glad to hear that wife and baby are fine and you still make time to get a video out to us, You’re amazing thank you
My neighbor used rtv and JB weld on his daughter's bedroom window to keep her from sneaking out at night. She pried the screens out so,many times the seals were leaking so he put rtv in them, then went over top of all of that with JB weld, then put some screws into the concrete around her window and used red loctite on all of them. I don't think he truly knew what he was doing and just went to the hardware store after looking up things to keep other things in place. Thank goodness an ARC welder wasn't cheap
Really like your vids. They were a stepping stone in my rehab after a debilitating brain tumor, and the unexpected loss of my father to two tumors a year later. This got me back in my shop! I literally collapsed on the floor weeping when i heard my 2x4bbl mopar big block on open headers again that we drove and raced for many years! Its in the blood! Ive owned over 300 engines for my hobby from GMC V12s on down. It still amazes me the bill of goods that was sold to the public to convince them they NEEDED 385hp in any pickup! Heck a good semi engine was a 350hp big cam cummins! (No, hp is hp when moving a mass over a distance in a given period of time. We who know old huge gas engines laugh about Diesels being a magical wand of power, torque, and reliability!) A 292, 300, or 225 was a truck engine even in school busses and dump trucks. And a massive power increase over the old flatheads. If anyone needed more the 351, 360, and 350 etc. more than sufficed. And were dirt reliable, cheap, and capable of much more adaptability as well as recyclable not using plastics. Also built by the hands of people and reusable in everything from home built airplane kits, boats, irrigation pumps, and tractors to name a very few. Each With cross compatibility over several decades and thousands of models of equipment for EACH brand! Now we need a robot built rolling computer with a motor that makes a Cosworth indy motor look like a middle school science fair project that makes less hp/ci than an old 283?? We wont even mention 440s, 460s, and 427s/ 454s that were available, then ran 200k then were pulled for drag racing, tractor pulling etc. I had several tractors and other things on the farm we used for decades retrofitted with automotive or truck engines. This is more than silly, its criminal what these intentional robbers cost us in interest payments, damage to the environment, loss of autonomy with what you own and loss of workforce and wasted material. No sane manufacturer who wanted to make the best vehicles for you or the planet would EVER consider these pieces as daily transport. I saw in the same poor community 200ft apart a used Northstar sitting in the middle of the intersection with a bad starter that probably would get scrapped because of no money for the insane intentionally built in extreme labor costs. Down 3 houses a guy was drinking a beer sitting beside a 350 in a 1983 chevy pickup re-installing his cylinder heads after he lapped the valves, which one do you suppose was running first?? Or still?? Those old motors with a knowledgeable tuner who tossed the EPA crap blew the doors off of most modern stuff on MPG as well. Our greed has blinded us! I will smile when people call me old, backwards, and stone aged and keep my old iron until they pry it from my cold dead fingers! However i do appreciate the engineering on the new stuff, just wish they'd admit most of it dates from WW1 in the teens up to the fifties. Nothing new just made available by CNC and with a computer to keep the loose nut from blowing it up before warranty. Want to see hp/ci? Look at WW2 torpedo motors! Nothing new just more $$$ per ton mile! However i have absolutely nothing against simple EFI and electronic ignitions on older style simpler stuff. As well as the many modern improvements that have come even to the old motors in the aftermarket. Sad to see so many comments that obviously come from people who were denied the right to bleed on their own vehicles fixing them on a regular basis and the pop machine was OUTSIDE the filling station and the snacks were under the counter below the fan belts!! But now since we pay 4x as much even after inflation adjustment we are 4x as happy right??
That stuck chain trying to bite at your finger got me. Remember everyone, use anything but use your finger to unstuck a stuck chain in an engine, a bike, a garage door opener or anything else. Thank you for the great vids.
Some engines are claimed to be bullet proof, but unfortunately some engine owner's own howitzers. Look forward to your teardowns every Saturday evening.
These engines have such a great reputation that I dare say replacing valve springs after 200k doesn't seem that daunting. I loved this tear down! I'm eyeballing getting a 15-16 sequoia to tow with and regardless of thirst I feel like a well maintained example (from the south) is a safe bet! Thanks for this as always! Change yer oil folks!!
Man that's what I though I bought mine right before gas went up and 11 mpg no matter how I drive empty and 6mpg towing my side x side is starting to kill me buyer beware
95% of failure in most vehicles is the nut behind the wheel. The other 5% is accounted for by bad design/ planned obselesence and sometimes stuff just happens.
Eric you should check the intake for that valve stem. I think the piston gave the valve stem the old javelin throw up the intake port. I struggle to believe the valve stem could exit out the exhaust valve in a manner that wouldn't leave visible damage.
One of my favorite engines. I have an 07 sequoia with the 4.7 toyota v8. Got what a great engine. I change oil every 3500 miles. Hope to run it to 500 k miles.
Just traded in my 2007 with 367k miles on it. Did oil changes every 5k miles but it has all original fluids other than coolant...I didn't have the money to take care of it like I should have, but that engine was amazing. 337k miles with OG trans fluid and power steering as well. The only thing I ever replaced was the starter and alternator (and drive belt), but everything else was from 2007. Pretty nuts. Just traded it in yesterday for a new 2023 Tundra.
I got a boosted one with 468 to the wheels .... It has like 190k miles, im suprised how clean the oil stays. No blow by...and the trans handles a beating like no other. 07 supercharged , short bed , single cab. So much fun
Great channel! I’ve had 4 Toyota trucks since 1999. I’ve driven over 500,000 miles, combined, and have never repaired ANY of them. I generally trade them when they get north of 160,000 miles. My current truck is a ‘17 Tundra and I’m keeping it ‘until further notice’.
Congratulations on your new daughter and I am so glad everything is fine with her and your wife. I so enjoy when you take apart a Toyota engine especially a V8, they look so well made and engineered and are logical in a way most American engines are not. Thank you for showing this.
My guess from it's general dingy condition is this engine was out of a work truck with tons of hours/miles on it. The engine was hammered inside, but it didn't fail due to the abundantly obvious lack of maintenance, it finally reached end of life and simply gave up. A valve spring likely wouldn't fail until very high miles regardless of maintenance habits, or lack therof. If anything, this video reaffirms how durable the 5.7 Toyota engines really are. The damn thing kept running in spite of poor care for what would appear to be a very long time. Congrats on the new baby! 😁
Culprit #1- complete lack of oil maintenance. Sludge everywhere, deeply discolored oil, and scored bearings. Probably more than a little throttle abuse. 'Nuff said, bummer to see such a nice engine demolished from a simple lack of routine maintenance. Fun vid.
Great job. I stumbled across this video by accident. 3 minutes in I'm laughing enjoying the video. great camera work . great narration. I had to subscribe. thank you for being so detailed and you do a very good job diagnosing the problem. it's like I'm just hanging out in the shop with you watching you tear down that motor. wow those Toyota 5.7 are monsters. there's a lot of nuts and bolts holding that thing together . I've got to check out the rest of your videos . you did an awesome job
Every single time i watch this guy, just makes me realize that theres people that doesnt leave their confort zone to make sure their cars and engine are running correctly
I don’t know why it’s so hard for people to pull the dipstick check the oil level and condition like anyone can do it. And then I get their not mechanics well it dose not take a mechanic to pull a dipstick anyone can do it. If you don’t know read the cars manual if the car dose not have a manual do some research o just can’t believe there’s people that drive cars and don’t do any basic simple maintenance
Keep in mind that oil is the primary means by which valve springs are cooled. Oil starvation can certainly kill valve springs by allowing them to run too hot. This could cause them to weaken and eventually break. Also, valve springs sometimes ARE a wear item, such as when running a big cam (not the case with this motor, though).
My 08 5.7 broke a valve spring The Tundras have a valve spring problem. In 2010 lexus recalled like 200,000 vehicles for the valve springs. In 2020 when I purchased a used engine the guy told me he was selling 30 a month and almost all was from valve springs. My oil was changed every 5000 miles with synthetic oil without fail and it broke with 170,000 miles.
@@dmt8581i literally just had a valve spring break, flawless maintenance. Started up a couple mornings ago and bam. In the process of tearing apart now.
If I had to guess, I'd say that this engine had quite a few miles and wasn't very well maintained. Even if the valve spring hadn't broken, I'd wager that with all the bearing wear, this thing probably didn't have that much life left. Also, I'd love to see one of the Ford 1.0 3-cylinder EcoBoost engines torn apart. Triple engines are some of my favorites, especially the super tiny ones.
Yes a Ford 1.0L teardown would be cool. However, I'd respectively object to it being a good engine. My dad has a 100k mile 1.0L, 5000 mile OCI, using only synthetic oil and the motor oil always gets up to operating temperature with every drive. The belts are in perfect condition and the notorious oil strainer isn't clogged at all. This engine is spotless inside. Except...a piston skirt decided it was going to break off into the oil pan. How the hell does that happen?!?! Engine wasn't overheated, coolant is full and less than a year old (was flushed recently) oil was at proper level, no DI injector leaks or any fuel leaks. Got spot-on fuel economy before this event occurred. Seriously how TF does that happen?!?! Also the engine still RAN!!!! The car actually drove home! My dad initially thought it was a lifter that was bleeding down too fast. There were no check engine lights for misfires or anything either. You guys would probably meme on this, but I swear I'm not joking, and I bet you don't believe this.
@@Mis73rRand0m Ford 6.2Ls are extremely reliable but die the same way - Valve springs. He actually did one. Nothing else every breaks. Not maintenance related. VS usually don't grenade the engine.
@@MowerModdin the 1.0 used cheap, weak pistons with low tension rings for fuel economy reasons. Like any ford you have to strengthen alot of weak points before you have a good engine
I loved watching you tear down this engine. Toyota did a fantastic job with this engine. I have two of them with the two tundras I have. I take meticulous care of them. I love the smooth power they put out. And with good maintenance they are notorious to last a 500,000 miles. Unlike a lot of vehicles nowadays. Thanks again great job. Keep up the great work.
The 3UR is a domestic made engine. I've heard of people not putting enough oil in them many times. They tend to only put 5 quarts when this engine takes just over 8 quarts.
Great video. The use of terms like "malice in the combustion palace" and "forbidden glitter" make your videos much more entertaining than just a dry description of the engine teardown. Keep up the good work.
As an engine builder I always go with dual valve springs. Most of the time the outer spring will break in the extreme case and you may bend a valve And getting nasty popping sound. However your chances are strong that you will not drop the valve into the chamber . i’ve seen it happen many times, it’s the difference between doing a cylinder head and a whole engine
I have a 2019 Tundra 1794… I love it! .. oil change religiously every 5K.. or less. I could see these engines last forever, IF taken care of. If not then you get what you got there.. 😢😪
34:20 You can see where the stem actually went. Those odd scratches in the intake port? Yeah I'd bet dollars to donuts the valve stem made them on its way north. Given the intake wasn't really held on by much of anything it probably got spotted in there during diagnosis and all work stopped then. That's also borne out by the angle of the dangle on the valve's head; the broken off nub of the stem was pointed DIRECTLY at thoe scratches. I'm betting the valve spring broke, valve went down on the piston, leaned over a bit, came back up, bound up, got splattered, valve head turned to its side, and boom.
I have a 2008 Tundra Crewmax 5.7 with 330K miles on the untouched engine and trans. I dropped it off today at the body shop for last rites, after an F-250 equalized a 45 mph speed differential by collecting my Tundra and propelling it into the two vehicles ahead of me. I will miss this rig, which still runs quite well. But I went and bought another Crewmax 5.7 yesterday; a 2021 with 40K miles. I hope it proves to be as reliable.
A woman from out of town came into the store (Advance Auto Parts) a few years back. Wanted someone to look at her Tundra "making a weird noise". It was virtually a new truck... interior was impeccable, only had 48,000 miles.... and she had never changed the oil. 🤦♂️
I get so excited for Saturday nights because of your channel. Need to see some Porsche updates!! Lol. Please keep the videos coming. I don’t have much time in life, I make time for your channel and a few others.
Most ANY car / truck engine in my family has routinely oil + filters changed every 3.5K - 4K miles, no matter what. My (Late) GrandDad always said : An engine's lifespan is directly proportional to lubrication quality (oil + parts involved), same regarding cooling system. (The only 'rogue' one used to be an uncle, , who just 'added a little "any motor oil" when the dipstick was (literally!) bone dry, to his (old & boxy) 2.4 liter i4 mitsu L300 van engine. I was quite amazed when we helped him remove it's 2.4 gasoline engine's head, and found glassy smooth cylinders in it's iron block. Basically nó visible wear. Said van had almost 300K miles on it, still with lively motor, and no tranny issues, when rust destroyed its body beyond repair in Florida, so it took it's last trip to junk yard. Uncle did NOT change either tranny nor differential oil. Opossite to the above, I still keep my (Late Dad's) Nissan K160, over 250K miles on it, with an average of 200 miles per YEAR, for the last 15 yrs, having motor oil + filters changed at least TWICE every year. It's Original (Carbureted & ULTRA thirsty) P40 i6 gasoline engine, doesn't burn any oil. Of course: I carefully drive it just 3 - 4 times per month.
My truck has 293000 miles on it. Its a 2010 crew max I still looks new and runs very smooth. No issues with leaks or burning oil. The 6 speed transmission shifts smoothly too. I would take a tundra over any other brand for dependability. My engine has not been work owned yet . I've owned other brands of trucks. Like the song from Fleetwood mac in the 1970s said. I'm never going back. 😊 From 2007 to 2021 this engine was perfected by the Japanese over time.
Congrats on the new addition to your family. Home Mom and daughter are doing well. Great tear down. Looking to see you do a tear down on a 2.0 litre Chrysler 4 cylinder.....VVT.
As an Owner of 2 - 3UR-FE Tundras and my wife's 2010 1st year 4.6L, I Thoroughly Enjoyed this. I have one on the rack now to teardown, this will help me in doing my teardown video as well, thx man
@@s.a.t419 well your talking about towing capacity and that takes a lot more than just a motor to tow. And I think that kinda sums up the problem with the tundra for real truck owners. The 5.7 is a great motor but the the tundra isnt a real truck. Your gonna get 5,000 pounds more towing capacity out of a silverado. But if your referring to hp and torque specs they are pretty much equal between the 6 and the 5.7. And I've never had a 5.7 personally but I know from experience I don't know if u can get more dependable than a 6 liter. It's definitely gonna outlive the truck that's for sure, the rust will kill the truck before the motor does
@@ericg4915 Lol. Exactly and both the Titan 5 speed and tundra 6 speed are easily hitting 300000 miles of towing miles the Chevy will burn through 5 transmissions thanks for pointing out it’s not just the motor Should we talk brakes and rear diffs to?? These jap trucks are in between a half ton and a 3-4 ton have you ever looked under one??? They are built 10 times better
I rebuilt one of these engines a few years ago. Engine was pristine inside but it broke a lifter, followed by the piece getting jammed on the rocker, forcing the valve way too far open, smacking a piston, breaking the head of the valve, and hammering the crap out of the piston and head. Absolute nightmare to time.
Poor Maintenance for sure, and possibly an older 3UR that had a problem with broken valve springs. My 2007 was used and abused by previous owners, the head gasket blew in cylinder #7 at 316,000 miles and the inspection tear down revealed cylinder wall scoring. I replaced that engine with a low mileage 3UR that my mechanic refreshed with new head gaskets, new timing chains and timing components, plus new starter, alternator and cooling system. Change your oil ever 5k and flush your cooling every 5 years or sooner.
they're starting to develop head gasket issues in the v8 UR series engines over the coolant acidity. the variable valve timing changes the ability to just replace the head gasket. if cooling isn't changed sooner than the recommended interval a disaster awaits.
So... where did the metal chunk in the oil pan come from ? Didn't see any failures (this time) that would result in that. Was it a previous failure that resulted in somebody taking the oil pan off ?
7:35 "look at thus water pump, it's perfect"....tosses it on the table. *clang. The BRZ has problems with RTV coming off and blocking the oil pick up. One half of the pan lip is wider than the seat and chunks will come off and cover the screen.
I love seeing videos on engines like these. The ones that are seen as virtually indestructible by those in the know, who are still fallible by those are neglect them. I really, really, REALLY want to see the legendary 5th gen 4Runner 1GR-FE 4.0 V6. I want to see what it takes to kill it.
Same as this engine. Broken valve springs. I've seen 2 broken springs in my time at Toyota so far (3 yrs) once on a Camry 2.5L and once on a 2GR-FKS in a 3rd gen Tacoma. It's not a very common issue on Toyotas but it does happen from time to time.
@@dominicbucci266 I love hearing about stuff like that.. like I said, especially on the cars and engines we view as nearly invincible. I also have a buddy who is a service manager at a large Houston Toyota dealer.. I love getting the inside stuff from him. More recently it's been about the Tundra twin turbo V6s. Even now he swears that people don't know how deep into issues those engines are going to get as they age, particularly with the turbos.
I replaced a 5.7 in the summer of 2007. It was difficult to get parts since it was so new. A groundhog bit a hole in the radiator and the customer drove it until quit running. They claim the temperature gauge never went up, they were looking at the transmission temperature gauge, and stated “It was making noise when I hooked up the horse trailer”. The engine got so hot the valve seats fell out of the heads. $10,000 to repair and it took weeks to get the parts that Toyota had to take from the production line. That was the only 5.7 replaced at that dealer in all the years that engine was used. I have a 2019 with the 5.7.
@@davidmann2988 regardless of that she pointed to the transmission temperature gauge as the one she was watching not the engine temperature. And she completely ignored all other signs like the engine pinging the eventual knocking.
We have a 2AR-FE Camry at the shop with a broken intake valve spring in cylinder 1. Not catastrophic, but it's a head-off and machine work job plus a new valve. Toyota does have a few instances of broken valve springs, but rare compared to failures of other engine manufacturers.
I have my oil changed at approximately 7,000mi intervals. I use Mobil1 (full synthetic) with a 20,000 Mobil1 filter, Lucas Synthetic oil additive and seal/compression additives. My 08 Ford Expedition 5.4 3 valve as of today has 498,035mi with no significant powertrain failures, other than those which are maintenance-related. There are some relatively minor leaks, and some loss of power, and I had to go with a heavier weight oil, but it's towed a work trailer during about 30% of my weekends. Oil changes and regular maintenance works!
No holes in the pistons, but the missing keeper is down in the oil pan. The oil return passages are big enough to let that easily fall all the way down there?
Supercharged 1gr-fe is pretty good, and a little less thirsty. I’m driving 100 miles a day - mainly highway/country roads and getting 18.5 - and I’m lifted, armored, and on 33’s. Also find a 1gr to tear down! Hopefully a duel vvt
I always laugh when you look at something like a water pump or chain guide and marvel how is in such good condition, then throw it away and there's this loud clang 😂
I have a 2015 F150 with 192k and a 2018 Jeep wrangler with 78k miles. I changed the oil every 5k miles and I just paid the shop to drain every single fluid on both cars in hopes that those cars last me for many more miles. Keeping my fingers crossed. Great video thank you
It's not just that the engine is overly thirsty it also has alot to do with gearing. Slap that new transmission behind the 5.7 and I bet the MPGs are alot closer than folks would imagine🤙
I used to work for a Japanese specialty shop and the only things I saw that regularly failed on these were the air injection system (which seems to be an issue on all the Toyota/Lexus trucks that use it, very expensive to fix and can cause the truck to go into a significantly reduced power/limp home mode if one of the valves sticks open) and the water pumps (which seems to be an issue on almost any Toyota built after 2002). I’d also see the occasional ignition coil failure. But yeah, even Toyotas need basic maintenance.
I’m willing to bet that shops/ owners put high silicate antifreeze in engines designed for low silicate like Toyotas and then blame the engineering instead of their mistake
Hell i'm dealing with the secondary air injection valve and/or pump currently (CEL P2441). It's a design flaw and Toyota won't honor anything on it, even though it's 100% their fault. I just need to get the CEL off before taking it to the dealership to trade it in for my new 3500 Diesel. Toyota trucks are great, their customer service is terrible, and I would of stuck with Toyota if they would ever made a 1-Ton Diesel.
I have a good friend who is a Toyota master tech. The 5.7s did have sludging issues related to the 0W20 oil and people not changing the oil often enough. It's just such thin oil it can't stand neglect. He told me that around 2008 or so the tax laws were changed to allow businesses to write off 100% of the value of a truck (over 6000 gvw) and because of this a lot of businesses acquired trucks they didn't really need, and then never maintained them. It was common to see newer Tundras get traded in after 3 years/50K miles, and still have the original factory oil filter on them. You knew it was trouble when you got blue smoke on startup and the oil change took a lot less oil than was supposed to be there. What usually happened at the dealership was the lower oil pan and valve covers got removed, as much sludge as could be cleaned out was removed, the engine was flushed a few times, then the truck got wholesaled off at auction. If the next owner was good at keeping up on oil changes the engine would slowly clean itself and last a good long time. Unfortunately lots of people don't take care of their vehicles. So you get what you got here. My personal opinion is this was a sludge motor that got sent on its way and eventually succumbed to lack of maintenance.
But there was nothing wrong with that engine! Most people do not know that the 5.7 has 31 "poppet" style valves and then one "butterfly" valve. The butterfly valve is also why it uses so much gas. Those grooves in the bearings are actually there to help "channel" the oil around the shaft. The metal particles are just residual powder from the powder-metal connecting rods. In all seriousness, man, some people just don't care. My LS engine stunk to the sky when I yanked the main bolts also. Coincidentally, it was poorly taken care of and had heavy varnish also. I wonder if it's old/rotten oil. Congrats again on the new baby!
15:36 One easy way to avoid this is to put the cam back in the valley where it belongs. That was NEVER a problem back in the days of rugged simplicity; cams ran in replaceable babbitt bearings and if it ate the bearings up you just popped the old ones out, popped new ones in, stabbed a new bumpstick in it, and let it rip.
@@jeffmiller3150 Nope. It's rugged, simple, dependable. Less parts means less points of failure, less wear. It means cheaper to build, to service, to repair. It means less maintenance. There is no reason for a street driven vehicle to have overhead cams. You are never going to find yourself in a position where having an engine that revs to 8k+ is a benefit on the street. That's race engine territory. OHV is king. It's just better.
Love my 5.7 unfortunately my dealer has kept a timing cover leak from me for a little while now that I just discovered. Apparently it’s common on these engines. Guess they were looking to do this when it’s out of warranty. 2019 only 57k miles change oil every 5k miles and only use shell 93 octane I sure do take care of her. Going forward doing my own oil changes, damn shame
Just like Scotty says. If something happens to a Toyota it's due to lack of maintenance. But if something happens to a GM or Dodge it's due to poor design.
Evidently they don't make valve springs like they usta . Sure this engine needed a few more oil changes but i don't think that would have kept the valve spring from breaking. Floors me to see someone spending big bucks on a Tundra then cheap out on the oil changes. This looks like a well designed engine to bad they didn't take care of it .
I had a spring break in my 2011 pentastar. Dodged a bullet, and the engine lived. But yes, this motor of mine is basically babied. Never had the oil change light reminder come on before changing the oil. Always dealer serviced too.
I'm a toyota tech and I just want to inform folks that when taking the cam tray off you can simply undo the 12mm bolts and the cams will stay in the tray with the 10mm. You can then lift the entire assembly out. Saves time and keeps everything together.
Any thoughts on running 5-30 vs 0-20?
Wondering the same as above
@@mr.mr.3301 My toyo tech emphasized the 5w. The 0 is too thin. Haven’t noticed any difference in mileage but I sleep better now.
@@georgiafan6618 5W and 0W are the “winter” weights, Pumpability (viscosity) at -30 to -35 degrees.
The second numbers are the operational viscosity
He’s a Toyota TECH, not engineer
I have an '07 Tundra with this 5.7l, it has 337,000 miles and counting on the original engine, and original transmission. I've towed with it quite a bit too. Driven all across the country and a bit of off-road use too when I went camping down back trails in western states. I change the oil every 5k miles on the dot. Doesn't burn a drop. Great engine, really one of the most solid modern trucks.
No doubt, the Toyota 5.7 is probably the best engine you could get in a half ton truck for the last 15 years. Sure they are bad on gas but i would take ultra reliable over a little extra fuel economy every day of the week.
@Helicopter Dad! Dude I've owned several fords, a Mopar product, a Volvo, etc. In my lifetime. My Toyota truck has been one of my favorites. But I'm absolutely not an elitist who would claim Toyota is somehow better than everyone else. I've just had a good experience.
@Helicopter Dad! Nobody ever said they do not break or cannot break. Bottom line is in the half ton segment that engine has a way better track record than the big 3 for reliability and in the case of GM and all the AFM lifter issues they have had since 2008 its not even close.
FWIW, Not a Toyota fanboy either. I don't own one and probably never will since they don't make a a truck that fits my towing needs... I just don't have any issue giving credit where its due.
@Helicopter Dad! Dude did you miss the part where i said i don't own one and never will?
I will tell you what i have owned tho, 3 late model GM's 2 with 6.2's and one 5.3 that ate AFM lifters pretty early in their lives that required complete engine swaps and one Ford ecoboost that needed an engine after a cam phaser failure. Both of these are well documented issues that continue to plague these engines. Ram has issues with lifters and cams too, also very well documented.
What issues are well documented for the Toyota 5.7? Its bad on gas....
@Helicopter Dad! Those numbers don't mean much when you dont actually see the breakdown of truck models. Those numbers for the big 3 also include 3/4 and 1 ton trucks which they all sell more of than they do half ton models. They also don't put things like displacement on demand in the 3/4T and up trucks so things like the GM and ram cam and lifter issues simply do not plague those trucks. Also real hard to compare a HD diesel to a light duty gasser....
Sorry if the fact that the Toyota 5.7 is more durable than what the big 3 currently puts out makes you so butthurt but its the truth. GM destroyed a great engine line in the LS with displacement on demand and RAM did the same with the Hemi. Those motors were awesome until they decided 5% better fuel economy was more important than durability. The 5.0 Ford is decent but they do have a little reputation for head gaskets.
If i were buying a half ton today that F150 with a 5.0 would probably be my choice. I don't trust the small displacement turbo's that seem to be the trend.
2002 Tundra 4.7 450k miles. Regularly tow a 4700lb boat. Never misses a beat.
The 2uz is a better engine for reliability than the 5.7 or 4.6
@@tylergronk-wd9dxagreed. I own few, and have owned and replaced quite few over time. Never not a single problem with 4.7
Just regular maintenance and timing belts and pumps with new rollers and tensioners from dealer only. I do labor myself, but buy OEM parts only. Also have the 5.7L , didn’t put enough miles yet, but it’s an animal, tows almost like diesel.
@@alexkaban7860I once got stuck in my company’s 18 on some soft sand, a tundra was passing by, he saw me struggling but I didn’t budge. he offered some help I’m like telling that thing will hurt itself towing this bigrig. I was wrong it didn’t even sweat one bit, it pulled me out with ease. long live Toyota!!
450k!? Holy cow
I'm retired. Don't do much anymore. Just want you to know how much I enjoy your videos, and accompanying monologs. I never fail to check my oil anymore.
Congratulations on the new baby.
It's a wise man indeed who can learn from the mistakes of others.
Never discount the average person’s ability to absolutely destroy things. There’s always one guy who could wreck an anvil with a rubber mallet.
Like a marine I suppose
A "tune up" is usually a scam too. Fix it till it's broken
That expression is gold!
I feel attacked by this comment. 😂
It's me, I'm that guy
The sound of cracking head bolts is pure ASMR
“Water pump looks perfect, look how clean that is. This could be reused!” CLANG!
My favourite bit 🤣
I just wanted to say thank you for another wonderful engine teardown video sir. I've been turning wrenches now for 60 years & I've seen more catastrophic engine failures now than ever before. Many people refuse to take care of their vehicles until the big bang hits home. I always say you can pay me now or pay a lot later, Everyone please enjoy the labor day weekend, TMP from N.J.
I’ll have to agree. It doesn’t help the oems are pushing for longer intervals, and we have more and more people driving that aren’t exactly on top of maintenance.
Atta baby Thomas. Ur lucky, you were able to buy virtual NASCAR motors, 427 tunnel ports, 426 race hemi's. in the fascinating 1960's.
I think the increase in failures has to do with car companies suggesting longer longer oil change intervals. I remember when 8000kms started and seemed too long. Now you hear companies saying 12000kms or more. I’ll do mine every 6 months or 5000kms no mater what they say. Thank you very much.
Congrats on the new baby girl. Glad her and her mom are going fine.
Man I love these tear downs. I own a 2007 Toyota Tundra sr5 5.7l with 140,000 miles on her. I change my oil every 5,000 and it still looks clean but i don't care cause she hasn't ever let me down. I have owned Ford's, GM, and Chevy's. I have always had to work on them constantly. I watched my older sister purchase a Toyota Camry. An in ten years all she did was put 3 sets of tires, brakes 3 times, and 1 battery. Heck I went to the Auto Show one year looking at the Denali and was really thinking about purchasing one. I took my sister and wife with me. All I wanted to see was the Denali and I did. Then my sister says she wants to see the new Camry. Me I started laughing like you and that Toyota Camry. 😂 So we goes over to the Toyota display to see the Camry. So something told me to go check out the trucks. When I got inside the Tundra I knew that I had to have one. I left outta that Auto Show searching that same night online for one. In 2 days I located one and I went to the dealer and bought it. When I tell you that the Tundra sr5 5.7l is a amazing truck. I will not buy another. Heck one man put a million miles on not 1 but 2 Toyota Tundra. Not if that doesn't make you want a dependable truck I don't know what to tell you. 🤷 Great video.
Love my tundra. I was gonna get a chevy for the gas mileage benefits but I compared the maintenance costs between the two and with the amount I drive and the dependability I need the tundra was a no Brainer. Sat for a bit before I bought it but had a local mechanic that owns and works on a lot of tundras do a decent run through it and did some light work on it. Been awesome besides a few little things. Royal purple oil does wonders for this thing recommend spending a little extra on it
@@MattLikesTricks Man I love my Tundra. It's still going.
@@quitmanwhitsey6320 2006 4.3 with close to 300,000.
I no won’t buy another vehicle if it isn’t a Toyota and isn’t a Tundra. Best truck I’ve ever owned. Regular maintenance and keeps running. Just replaced the last original U joint.
@Matthew Denham nah your wasting your money on royal purple ... my tundra has 300k . I change it every 3-5k and use whatever on sale .
@@joelmora2826 I know I'm not. Truck runs way better with royal purple than it ever did with mobil 1. It was definitely neglected by its previous owner needs a little extra love. Ticks like a mfer with cheap oil, sounds healthy with royal purple. That oil is the real deal
I have a 16 tundra with this engine. It gives me great confidence in it to hear you say these good things about the engine
Btw, to anyone working on dohc engines, the cams can "jump" like that because of valve spring pressure trying push a pair or more valves closed. To get it to not do that you can either rotate the engine so that all the valves are closed or close to closed or, after releasing the chain tensioners, loosen all the cam caps gradually in the reverse order they're instaled in. This releases the tension gradually.
It probably won't hurt you but a cam jumping at the wrong time can knock tools out of your hand or potentionally pinch you fingers in the chain/sprockets.
I did my own clearances on a Kawasaki Ninja 300 and (I'm an absolute novice ) you start it all at TDC by the book and this means you have at least one of the cam caps under pressure. It was quite an eye opener but I muddled through.
@@sullybiker6520 Nice. I have 5.0 Coyote racing engine with locked out cams so I've gotten really, really f-ing good a degreeing cams, lol.
It amazes me that some people still won't change their oil, especially today. I am a retired law enforcement officer after 31 years. I say that to say that even 30 plus years ago, when oil wasn't as good and engines weren't as reliable as they are today, we changed oil at 5,000 miles and back then, used Havoline. All of our fleet were Ford C/Vs with 351s. Even on that schedule with wide open pursuit driving to extended idling, we almost never had an oil related engine failure. Today's cars, even tell you when to change the oil and even at a 10,000 mile interval, you'd be safe. I just don't get what's so hard about it...
Agree 100%. Basic preventive maintenance is a must, and not difficult. Semper Fi brother.
Unfortunately, most people today have zero mechanical competence. You ask the average Joe or Jane what his/her vehicle's oil change interval is, and you'll get the ten thousand mile stare. BTW, thank you Ray and Old Veteran for your service to our country. I can't say "Semper Fi" but I can put my hand on my heart.
Anyone telling you that 10,000 mile oil changes are ok either knows nothing about internal combustion engines or wants to be able to sell you your next car when engine in yours gives up.
@@bwalker4194 that heavily depends on the engine and use case though. My last car (2011 Fusion w/ 2.5L NA) specified 10k changes. I followed Ford's recommended intervals and the engine ran perfectly fine until I sent the entire car to the junkyard at 321,000 mi for a major transmission failure. At the end of its life it was burning between 4 and 8 oz of oil over a 10,000 mile interval and was still as happy as the day I bought it with 37,000 miles on it to be revved all the way up to the red line.
@@bwalker4194 10k miles is a bit much, 10k km is much more appropriate.
Those head bolts sound like my knees when I get up.
Congratulations on being a new daddy I’m really glad to hear that wife and baby are fine and you still make time to get a video out to us,
You’re amazing thank you
My neighbor used rtv and JB weld on his daughter's bedroom window to keep her from sneaking out at night. She pried the screens out so,many times the seals were leaking so he put rtv in them, then went over top of all of that with JB weld, then put some screws into the concrete around her window and used red loctite on all of them. I don't think he truly knew what he was doing and just went to the hardware store after looking up things to keep other things in place. Thank goodness an ARC welder wasn't cheap
That’s a funny comment
Fire code violation.
It's like Rapunzel-- brought to you by Permatex and J-B Weld... 😄
😬😬😬 people are psychos
Really like your vids. They were a stepping stone in my rehab after a debilitating brain tumor, and the unexpected loss of my father to two tumors a year later. This got me back in my shop! I literally collapsed on the floor weeping when i heard my 2x4bbl mopar big block on open headers again that we drove and raced for many years! Its in the blood! Ive owned over 300 engines for my hobby from GMC V12s on down. It still amazes me the bill of goods that was sold to the public to convince them they NEEDED 385hp in any pickup! Heck a good semi engine was a 350hp big cam cummins! (No, hp is hp when moving a mass over a distance in a given period of time. We who know old huge gas engines laugh about Diesels being a magical wand of power, torque, and reliability!) A 292, 300, or 225 was a truck engine even in school busses and dump trucks. And a massive power increase over the old flatheads. If anyone needed more the 351, 360, and 350 etc. more than sufficed. And were dirt reliable, cheap, and capable of much more adaptability as well as recyclable not using plastics. Also built by the hands of people and reusable in everything from home built airplane kits, boats, irrigation pumps, and tractors to name a very few. Each With cross compatibility over several decades and thousands of models of equipment for EACH brand! Now we need a robot built rolling computer with a motor that makes a Cosworth indy motor look like a middle school science fair project that makes less hp/ci than an old 283?? We wont even mention 440s, 460s, and 427s/ 454s that were available, then ran 200k then were pulled for drag racing, tractor pulling etc. I had several tractors and other things on the farm we used for decades retrofitted with automotive or truck engines. This is more than silly, its criminal what these intentional robbers cost us in interest payments, damage to the environment, loss of autonomy with what you own and loss of workforce and wasted material. No sane manufacturer who wanted to make the best vehicles for you or the planet would EVER consider these pieces as daily transport. I saw in the same poor community 200ft apart a used Northstar sitting in the middle of the intersection with a bad starter that probably would get scrapped because of no money for the insane intentionally built in extreme labor costs. Down 3 houses a guy was drinking a beer sitting beside a 350 in a 1983 chevy pickup re-installing his cylinder heads after he lapped the valves, which one do you suppose was running first?? Or still?? Those old motors with a knowledgeable tuner who tossed the EPA crap blew the doors off of most modern stuff on MPG as well. Our greed has blinded us! I will smile when people call me old, backwards, and stone aged and keep my old iron until they pry it from my cold dead fingers! However i do appreciate the engineering on the new stuff, just wish they'd admit most of it dates from WW1 in the teens up to the fifties. Nothing new just made available by CNC and with a computer to keep the loose nut from blowing it up before warranty. Want to see hp/ci? Look at WW2 torpedo motors! Nothing new just more $$$ per ton mile! However i have absolutely nothing against simple EFI and electronic ignitions on older style simpler stuff. As well as the many modern improvements that have come even to the old motors in the aftermarket. Sad to see so many comments that obviously come from people who were denied the right to bleed on their own vehicles fixing them on a regular basis and the pop machine was OUTSIDE the filling station and the snacks were under the counter below the fan belts!! But now since we pay 4x as much even after inflation adjustment we are 4x as happy right??
That stuck chain trying to bite at your finger got me. Remember everyone, use anything but use your finger to unstuck a stuck chain in an engine, a bike, a garage door opener or anything else. Thank you for the great vids.
If anyone really thinks a finger is a good tool for that they could at least grab a hot dog instead
Some engines are claimed to be bullet proof, but unfortunately some engine owner's own howitzers.
Look forward to your teardowns every Saturday evening.
That’s an excellent comment and brilliant as well
No engines bullet proof of you don’t change oil
Engines could be bulletproof, but not stupidproof)))
The 4.7 is bulletproof. Cast iron and low power output.
These engines have such a great reputation that I dare say replacing valve springs after 200k doesn't seem that daunting. I loved this tear down!
I'm eyeballing getting a 15-16 sequoia to tow with and regardless of thirst I feel like a well maintained example (from the south) is a safe bet!
Thanks for this as always!
Change yer oil folks!!
Man that's what I though I bought mine right before gas went up and 11 mpg no matter how I drive empty and 6mpg towing my side x side is starting to kill me buyer beware
@@forrestcowan448 what year is yours?
@@atlaslion5128 2015 tundra platinum
@@forrestcowan448 that's odd even for a Tundra especially since it's not that old. Maybe try running fuel system cleaner.
95% of failure in most vehicles is the nut behind the wheel. The other 5% is accounted for by bad design/ planned obselesence and sometimes stuff just happens.
that certainly applies to these toyota engines.
In German cars, I’d say it’s more like 50% idiot owner, 50% idiot design
I hate the planned obsolescence part
I didn’t know the axle nut fails that much
I'd say that 5% is... (GM)
Impressed by how well this engine stayed together. This is a testament to Toyota quality.
Great tear down and I hope to find some more Yota ones.
Another very informative tear down. As a 2015 Tundra owner it was interesting to see the 5.7 taken apart.
Eric you should check the intake for that valve stem. I think the piston gave the valve stem the old javelin throw up the intake port. I struggle to believe the valve stem could exit out the exhaust valve in a manner that wouldn't leave visible damage.
One of my favorite engines. I have an 07 sequoia with the 4.7 toyota v8. Got what a great engine. I change oil every 3500 miles. Hope to run it to 500 k miles.
"They replaced the 5.7 with a twin turbo V6. Let's hope it's as reliable." That aged like fine milk...
Sure did 🤦♂️
Change the oil every 3-5 thousand miles on your iforce tundras and you will never have failures. All the work trucks at my work never die.
Just traded in my 2007 with 367k miles on it. Did oil changes every 5k miles but it has all original fluids other than coolant...I didn't have the money to take care of it like I should have, but that engine was amazing. 337k miles with OG trans fluid and power steering as well. The only thing I ever replaced was the starter and alternator (and drive belt), but everything else was from 2007. Pretty nuts. Just traded it in yesterday for a new 2023 Tundra.
u never did ur fluids ???? bro neglect ... its simple and should be done
“Look at that water pump! It’s absolutely perfect!” CLANG! I deal with cores at work all the time. This happens constantly.
I got a boosted one with 468 to the wheels .... It has like 190k miles, im suprised how clean the oil stays. No blow by...and the trans handles a beating like no other. 07 supercharged , short bed , single cab. So much fun
Great channel! I’ve had 4 Toyota trucks since 1999. I’ve driven over 500,000 miles, combined, and have never repaired ANY of them. I generally trade them when they get north of 160,000 miles. My current truck is a ‘17 Tundra and I’m keeping it ‘until further notice’.
😂
Congratulations on your new daughter and I am so glad everything is fine with her and your wife.
I so enjoy when you take apart a Toyota engine especially a V8, they look so well made and engineered and are logical in a way most American engines are not.
Thank you for showing this.
My guess from it's general dingy condition is this engine was out of a work truck with tons of hours/miles on it. The engine was hammered inside, but it didn't fail due to the abundantly obvious lack of maintenance, it finally reached end of life and simply gave up. A valve spring likely wouldn't fail until very high miles regardless of maintenance habits, or lack therof. If anything, this video reaffirms how durable the 5.7 Toyota engines really are. The damn thing kept running in spite of poor care for what would appear to be a very long time.
Congrats on the new baby! 😁
Culprit #1- complete lack of oil maintenance. Sludge everywhere, deeply discolored oil, and scored bearings. Probably more than a little throttle abuse. 'Nuff said, bummer to see such a nice engine demolished from a simple lack of routine maintenance. Fun vid.
Great job.
I stumbled across this video by accident.
3 minutes in I'm laughing enjoying the video.
great camera work .
great narration.
I had to subscribe.
thank you for being so detailed and you do a very good job diagnosing the problem.
it's like I'm just hanging out in the shop with you watching you tear down that motor.
wow those Toyota 5.7 are monsters.
there's a lot of nuts and bolts holding that thing together .
I've got to check out the rest of your videos .
you did an awesome job
Every single time i watch this guy, just makes me realize that theres people that doesnt leave their confort zone to make sure their cars and engine are running correctly
And if they eventually do, they end up on #justrolledin 😂
@@GnilCH true lol
I don’t know why it’s so hard for people to pull the dipstick check the oil level and condition like anyone can do it. And then I get their not mechanics well it dose not take a mechanic to pull a dipstick anyone can do it. If you don’t know read the cars manual if the car dose not have a manual do some research o just can’t believe there’s people that drive cars and don’t do any basic simple maintenance
@@ryans413 those 3 or 5 mins that you will spend on checking the oil can save u lots of $$$ lol
Keep in mind that oil is the primary means by which valve springs are cooled. Oil starvation can certainly kill valve springs by allowing them to run too hot. This could cause them to weaken and eventually break. Also, valve springs sometimes ARE a wear item, such as when running a big cam (not the case with this motor, though).
Yep ole coil bind sucks if you put in big rattle stick and not change springs
My 08 5.7 broke a valve spring The Tundras have a valve spring problem. In 2010 lexus recalled like 200,000 vehicles for the valve springs. In 2020 when I purchased a used engine the guy told me he was selling 30 a month and almost all was from valve springs. My oil was changed every 5000 miles with synthetic oil without fail and it broke with 170,000 miles.
@@dmt8581i literally just had a valve spring break, flawless maintenance. Started up a couple mornings ago and bam. In the process of tearing apart now.
If I had to guess, I'd say that this engine had quite a few miles and wasn't very well maintained. Even if the valve spring hadn't broken, I'd wager that with all the bearing wear, this thing probably didn't have that much life left.
Also, I'd love to see one of the Ford 1.0 3-cylinder EcoBoost engines torn apart. Triple engines are some of my favorites, especially the super tiny ones.
Exactly my thoughts, definitely above 300K and was probably revved out to redline while towing its' whole life.
Yes a Ford 1.0L teardown would be cool. However, I'd respectively object to it being a good engine.
My dad has a 100k mile 1.0L, 5000 mile OCI, using only synthetic oil and the motor oil always gets up to operating temperature with every drive. The belts are in perfect condition and the notorious oil strainer isn't clogged at all. This engine is spotless inside.
Except...a piston skirt decided it was going to break off into the oil pan. How the hell does that happen?!?! Engine wasn't overheated, coolant is full and less than a year old (was flushed recently) oil was at proper level, no DI injector leaks or any fuel leaks. Got spot-on fuel economy before this event occurred. Seriously how TF does that happen?!?!
Also the engine still RAN!!!! The car actually drove home! My dad initially thought it was a lifter that was bleeding down too fast. There were no check engine lights for misfires or anything either. You guys would probably meme on this, but I swear I'm not joking, and I bet you don't believe this.
Yes! I have said this a number of times. Mine only has 70K on it, but I'd like to see it taken apart as they are somewhat unique.
@@Mis73rRand0m Ford 6.2Ls are extremely reliable but die the same way - Valve springs. He actually did one. Nothing else every breaks. Not maintenance related. VS usually don't grenade the engine.
@@MowerModdin the 1.0 used cheap, weak pistons with low tension rings for fuel economy reasons. Like any ford you have to strengthen alot of weak points before you have a good engine
Please get your hands on a 5.6L Nissan VK56DE!! I'd love to see that!
Yes ! Me want to see that as i have one in my 2004 Titan . Surely there are some being abused ; )
Any vk56 !
I loved watching you tear down this engine. Toyota did a fantastic job with this engine. I have two of them with the two tundras I have. I take meticulous care of them. I love the smooth power they put out. And with good maintenance they are notorious to last a 500,000 miles. Unlike a lot of vehicles nowadays. Thanks again great job. Keep up the great work.
The 3UR is a domestic made engine. I've heard of people not putting enough oil in them many times. They tend to only put 5 quarts when this engine takes just over 8 quarts.
7.9 quarts to be exact.
They don't even check the dipstick? Are these shops trying to save money?
More reasons to do the job yourself? (Sounds like it.)
Great video. The use of terms like "malice in the combustion palace" and "forbidden glitter" make your videos much more entertaining than just a dry description of the engine teardown. Keep up the good work.
As an engine builder I always go with dual valve springs. Most of the time the outer spring will break in the extreme case and you may bend a valve And getting nasty popping sound. However your chances are strong that you will not drop the valve into the chamber . i’ve seen it happen many times, it’s the difference between doing a cylinder head and a whole engine
I have a 2019 Tundra 1794… I love it! .. oil change religiously every 5K.. or less. I could see these engines last forever, IF taken care of. If not then you get what you got there.. 😢😪
34:20 You can see where the stem actually went. Those odd scratches in the intake port? Yeah I'd bet dollars to donuts the valve stem made them on its way north. Given the intake wasn't really held on by much of anything it probably got spotted in there during diagnosis and all work stopped then. That's also borne out by the angle of the dangle on the valve's head; the broken off nub of the stem was pointed DIRECTLY at thoe scratches.
I'm betting the valve spring broke, valve went down on the piston, leaned over a bit, came back up, bound up, got splattered, valve head turned to its side, and boom.
I have a 2008 Tundra Crewmax 5.7 with 330K miles on the untouched engine and trans. I dropped it off today at the body shop for last rites, after an F-250 equalized a 45 mph speed differential by collecting my Tundra and propelling it into the two vehicles ahead of me. I will miss this rig, which still runs quite well. But I went and bought another Crewmax 5.7 yesterday; a 2021 with 40K miles. I hope it proves to be as reliable.
17:53 Toyota headbolts are bi-hexagon and not triple square. I usually get away with using a regular hex.
A woman from out of town came into the store (Advance Auto Parts) a few years back. Wanted someone to look at her Tundra "making a weird noise". It was virtually a new truck... interior was impeccable, only had 48,000 miles.... and she had never changed the oil. 🤦♂️
I get so excited for Saturday nights because of your channel. Need to see some Porsche updates!! Lol. Please keep the videos coming. I don’t have much time in life, I make time for your channel and a few others.
Most ANY car / truck engine in my family has routinely oil + filters changed every 3.5K - 4K miles, no matter what. My (Late) GrandDad always said : An engine's lifespan is directly proportional to lubrication quality (oil + parts involved), same regarding cooling system. (The only 'rogue' one used to be an uncle, , who just 'added a little "any motor oil" when the dipstick was (literally!) bone dry, to his (old & boxy) 2.4 liter i4 mitsu L300 van engine. I was quite amazed when we helped him remove it's 2.4 gasoline engine's head, and found glassy smooth cylinders in it's iron block. Basically nó visible wear. Said van had almost 300K miles on it, still with lively motor, and no tranny issues, when rust destroyed its body beyond repair in Florida, so it took it's last trip to junk yard. Uncle did NOT change either tranny nor differential oil. Opossite to the above, I still keep my (Late Dad's) Nissan K160, over 250K miles on it, with an average of 200 miles per YEAR, for the last 15 yrs, having motor oil + filters changed at least TWICE every year. It's Original (Carbureted & ULTRA thirsty) P40 i6 gasoline engine, doesn't burn any oil. Of course: I carefully drive it just 3 - 4 times per month.
I've heard of rotary valves, but I didn't picture it that way.
My truck has 293000 miles on it. Its a 2010 crew max I still looks new and runs very smooth. No issues with leaks or burning oil. The 6 speed transmission shifts smoothly too. I would take a tundra over any other brand for dependability. My engine has not been work owned yet . I've owned other brands of trucks. Like the song from Fleetwood mac in the 1970s said. I'm never going back. 😊
From 2007 to 2021 this engine was perfected by the Japanese over time.
Great fun to watch! I would like to see a North Star V8 from Cadillac. Thanks
Congrats on the new addition to your family. Home Mom and daughter are doing well. Great tear down. Looking to see you do a tear down on a 2.0 litre Chrysler 4 cylinder.....VVT.
I’m actually starting to see this more often
Surprised how little damage that has done. That head looks relatively easily repairable, while I was expecting complete destruction.
As an Owner of 2 - 3UR-FE Tundras and my wife's 2010 1st year 4.6L, I Thoroughly Enjoyed this. I have one on the rack now to teardown, this will help me in doing my teardown video as well, thx man
Your videos constantly improve! Love watching where obviously unusable parts are thrown!
I don't know much about engines, so I love your tear downs and channel!
I was impressed how beefy the block and rotating assembly is. 380 hp 15 yrs ago, i had no idea this engine was that stout!
The only truck motor that was better was the 6 liter from GM
Not even close
@@ericg4915 This and the titan motor out pull the 6.0 and would prob last longer and i love LS engines
@@s.a.t419 well your talking about towing capacity and that takes a lot more than just a motor to tow. And I think that kinda sums up the problem with the tundra for real truck owners. The 5.7 is a great motor but the the tundra isnt a real truck. Your gonna get 5,000 pounds more towing capacity out of a silverado. But if your referring to hp and torque specs they are pretty much equal between the 6 and the 5.7. And I've never had a 5.7 personally but I know from experience I don't know if u can get more dependable than a 6 liter. It's definitely gonna outlive the truck that's for sure, the rust will kill the truck before the motor does
@@ericg4915 Lol. Exactly and both the Titan 5 speed and tundra 6 speed are easily hitting 300000 miles of towing miles the Chevy will burn through 5 transmissions thanks for pointing out it’s not just the motor Should we talk brakes and rear diffs to?? These jap trucks are in between a half ton and a 3-4 ton have you ever looked under one??? They are built 10 times better
I rebuilt one of these engines a few years ago. Engine was pristine inside but it broke a lifter, followed by the piece getting jammed on the rocker, forcing the valve way too far open, smacking a piston, breaking the head of the valve, and hammering the crap out of the piston and head.
Absolute nightmare to time.
Saturday night mayhem. Love it!
Looks like someone had a 10 oz. silicone caulking gun cartridge & went to town on the oil pan.
Poor Maintenance for sure, and possibly an older 3UR that had a problem with broken valve springs. My 2007 was used and abused by previous owners, the head gasket blew in cylinder #7 at 316,000 miles and the inspection tear down revealed cylinder wall scoring. I replaced that engine with a low mileage 3UR that my mechanic refreshed with new head gaskets, new timing chains and timing components, plus new starter, alternator and cooling system.
Change your oil ever 5k and flush your cooling every 5 years or sooner.
Love the new quick disconnect intake manifolds!
Great video. I currently own a 19 5.7 and used to own an 07. Fascinating to watch the teardown, never have seen my engine disassembled before.
Time to pop the top on a cold one and enjoy another teardown. Still hoping to see the Fiesta ST's 1.6t engine at some point! :3
I thought he’d done the 1.6 from a Fusion or Escape before (same engine)
@@ouch1011 I only remember seeing him do the 2 litre from the focus st, and the older duratec 2 litre, as well as the Ecoboost v6's
@@ouch1011 you're thinking of his 2.0L EcoBoost teardown. The 1.6L is from a different engine family.
Non keyed timing gear has entered the chat...
they're starting to develop head gasket issues in the v8 UR series engines over the coolant acidity. the variable valve timing changes the ability to just replace the head gasket. if cooling isn't changed sooner than the recommended interval a disaster awaits.
So... where did the metal chunk in the oil pan come from ? Didn't see any failures (this time) that would result in that. Was it a previous failure that resulted in somebody taking the oil pan off ?
7:35 "look at thus water pump, it's perfect"....tosses it on the table. *clang. The BRZ has problems with RTV coming off and blocking the oil pick up. One half of the pan lip is wider than the seat and chunks will come off and cover the screen.
I love seeing videos on engines like these. The ones that are seen as virtually indestructible by those in the know, who are still fallible by those are neglect them.
I really, really, REALLY want to see the legendary 5th gen 4Runner 1GR-FE 4.0 V6. I want to see what it takes to kill it.
Same as this engine. Broken valve springs. I've seen 2 broken springs in my time at Toyota so far (3 yrs) once on a Camry 2.5L and once on a 2GR-FKS in a 3rd gen Tacoma. It's not a very common issue on Toyotas but it does happen from time to time.
@@dominicbucci266 I love hearing about stuff like that.. like I said, especially on the cars and engines we view as nearly invincible. I also have a buddy who is a service manager at a large Houston Toyota dealer.. I love getting the inside stuff from him. More recently it's been about the Tundra twin turbo V6s. Even now he swears that people don't know how deep into issues those engines are going to get as they age, particularly with the turbos.
I replaced a 5.7 in the summer of 2007. It was difficult to get parts since it was so new. A groundhog bit a hole in the radiator and the customer drove it until quit running. They claim the temperature gauge never went up, they were looking at the transmission temperature gauge, and stated “It was making noise when I hooked up the horse trailer”. The engine got so hot the valve seats fell out of the heads. $10,000 to repair and it took weeks to get the parts that Toyota had to take from the production line. That was the only 5.7 replaced at that dealer in all the years that engine was used. I have a 2019 with the 5.7.
Your temp gauge will not raise unless fluid is running over the sensor. So if the coolant system was dry…. No reading while it overheats
@@davidmann2988 regardless of that she pointed to the transmission temperature gauge as the one she was watching not the engine temperature. And she completely ignored all other signs like the engine pinging the eventual knocking.
I know it would be hard to find but I think it would be great if you got a ford 300 or AMC 242 I6
Yes an AMC motor would be awesome to see.
We have a 2AR-FE Camry at the shop with a broken intake valve spring in cylinder 1. Not catastrophic, but it's a head-off and machine work job plus a new valve. Toyota does have a few instances of broken valve springs, but rare compared to failures of other engine manufacturers.
Plan B = more force. Usually, works for me, too, Eric!!
I have my oil changed at approximately 7,000mi intervals. I use Mobil1 (full synthetic) with a 20,000 Mobil1 filter, Lucas Synthetic oil additive and seal/compression additives. My 08 Ford Expedition 5.4 3 valve as of today has 498,035mi with no significant powertrain failures, other than those which are maintenance-related.
There are some relatively minor leaks, and some loss of power, and I had to go with a heavier weight oil, but it's towed a work trailer during about 30% of my weekends.
Oil changes and regular maintenance works!
I would've thought it had jumped time tbh. Should always check your engine timing after a failure in the valvetrain
I see a lot of 2nd gen tundras for sale with blown up 5.7s. So I was very curious to see this video.
Bro said: “this water pump looks absolutely perfect. You could reuse this”
Proceeds to slam it on the floor🤣
No holes in the pistons, but the missing keeper is down in the oil pan. The oil return passages are big enough to let that easily fall all the way down there?
Supercharged 1gr-fe is pretty good, and a little less thirsty. I’m driving 100 miles a day - mainly highway/country roads and getting 18.5 - and I’m lifted, armored, and on 33’s.
Also find a 1gr to tear down! Hopefully a duel vvt
Love the 1GR. I’d definitely be interested in seeing one. If he can fine one. 😎
Solid motor!! Been Toyota tech for 30 years. Since 2007 when the 5.7 came out I have put one engine in with broken cams and it was under warranty.
I always laugh when you look at something like a water pump or chain guide and marvel how is in such good condition, then throw it away and there's this loud clang 😂
I have a 2015 F150 with 192k and a 2018 Jeep wrangler with 78k miles. I changed the oil every 5k miles and I just paid the shop to drain every single fluid on both cars in hopes that those cars last me for many more miles. Keeping my fingers crossed. Great video thank you
It's not just that the engine is overly thirsty it also has alot to do with gearing. Slap that new transmission behind the 5.7 and I bet the MPGs are alot closer than folks would imagine🤙
bmw tech for over 30 years. very impressed with your ability and knowledge. looking forward to watching more.
I used to work for a Japanese specialty shop and the only things I saw that regularly failed on these were the air injection system (which seems to be an issue on all the Toyota/Lexus trucks that use it, very expensive to fix and can cause the truck to go into a significantly reduced power/limp home mode if one of the valves sticks open) and the water pumps (which seems to be an issue on almost any Toyota built after 2002). I’d also see the occasional ignition coil failure. But yeah, even Toyotas need basic maintenance.
I’m willing to bet that shops/ owners put high silicate antifreeze in engines designed for low silicate like Toyotas and then blame the engineering instead of their mistake
Hell i'm dealing with the secondary air injection valve and/or pump currently (CEL P2441). It's a design flaw and Toyota won't honor anything on it, even though it's 100% their fault. I just need to get the CEL off before taking it to the dealership to trade it in for my new 3500 Diesel. Toyota trucks are great, their customer service is terrible, and I would of stuck with Toyota if they would ever made a 1-Ton Diesel.
I have a good friend who is a Toyota master tech. The 5.7s did have sludging issues related to the 0W20 oil and people not changing the oil often enough. It's just such thin oil it can't stand neglect.
He told me that around 2008 or so the tax laws were changed to allow businesses to write off 100% of the value of a truck (over 6000 gvw) and because of this a lot of businesses acquired trucks they didn't really need, and then never maintained them. It was common to see newer Tundras get traded in after 3 years/50K miles, and still have the original factory oil filter on them. You knew it was trouble when you got blue smoke on startup and the oil change took a lot less oil than was supposed to be there.
What usually happened at the dealership was the lower oil pan and valve covers got removed, as much sludge as could be cleaned out was removed, the engine was flushed a few times, then the truck got wholesaled off at auction. If the next owner was good at keeping up on oil changes the engine would slowly clean itself and last a good long time. Unfortunately lots of people don't take care of their vehicles. So you get what you got here.
My personal opinion is this was a sludge motor that got sent on its way and eventually succumbed to lack of maintenance.
You should definitely try to find either a 3.0 L Vulcan or one of the 4.0 L out of a Ford ranger
But there was nothing wrong with that engine! Most people do not know that the 5.7 has 31 "poppet" style valves and then one "butterfly" valve. The butterfly valve is also why it uses so much gas. Those grooves in the bearings are actually there to help "channel" the oil around the shaft. The metal particles are just residual powder from the powder-metal connecting rods.
In all seriousness, man, some people just don't care. My LS engine stunk to the sky when I yanked the main bolts also. Coincidentally, it was poorly taken care of and had heavy varnish also. I wonder if it's old/rotten oil.
Congrats again on the new baby!
You can get it in the Land Cruiser or LX570. Which is a lot better than a 4runner in every conceivable way ever anyway.
Absolutely
a collaboration with the slow mo guys showing the distortion and springing of a socket head would be friggin sweet
jus saiyan
I’d love to see a high mileage 5.4L 2 valve if you ever come across one
I read somewhere that valve spring failures on early 5.7 engines was a a rare but note-able issue.
supposedly the issue is only on 07-08's
07-08 ls460 also
just did headgaskets and timing kit on one of these, lifted the cab instead of pulling the motor, wasnt too bad of a job
15:36 One easy way to avoid this is to put the cam back in the valley where it belongs. That was NEVER a problem back in the days of rugged simplicity; cams ran in replaceable babbitt bearings and if it ate the bearings up you just popped the old ones out, popped new ones in, stabbed a new bumpstick in it, and let it rip.
OHV is obsolete!
@@jeffmiller3150 Nope. It's rugged, simple, dependable. Less parts means less points of failure, less wear. It means cheaper to build, to service, to repair. It means less maintenance.
There is no reason for a street driven vehicle to have overhead cams. You are never going to find yourself in a position where having an engine that revs to 8k+ is a benefit on the street. That's race engine territory.
OHV is king. It's just better.
Love my 5.7 unfortunately my dealer has kept a timing cover leak from me for a little while now that I just discovered. Apparently it’s common on these engines. Guess they were looking to do this when it’s out of warranty. 2019 only 57k miles change oil every 5k miles and only use shell 93 octane I sure do take care of her. Going forward doing my own oil changes, damn shame
Just like Scotty says. If something happens to a Toyota it's due to lack of maintenance. But if something happens to a GM or Dodge it's due to poor design.
Except for that lawsuit against rusted frames and recalls…
@@FIREPHILSPENCER Yes I agree.
The key with ALL vehicle engines is MAINTENANCE, MAINTENANCE and more MAINTENANCE. Timely oil and fluid changes as seen in this video a MUST!!!
Evidently they don't make valve springs like they usta . Sure this engine needed a few more oil changes but i don't think that would have kept the valve spring from breaking. Floors me to see someone spending big bucks on a Tundra then cheap out on the oil changes. This looks like a well designed engine to bad they didn't take care of it .
I had a spring break in my 2011 pentastar. Dodged a bullet, and the engine lived. But yes, this motor of mine is basically babied. Never had the oil change light reminder come on before changing the oil. Always dealer serviced too.
Hi, I love the action replays when tools go flying or something else goes wrong. The humour is great on an otherwise dry subject.