Creality K1 - Bootycall Jones Linear Rail Gantry Install
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
- The Creality K1 is a great price point Core XY printer that produces results directly out of the box.
Despite its ability to print at such a high output, the quality of the printed parts could definitely use improvement.
With the configuration of the factory gantry components being a limiting factor, there is direct correlation between print quality and the original equipment that produces it.
In this video, you'll find a step-by-step guide on how to use your Creality K1's already capable foundation; to improve upon a printer that you already own or plan to purchase.
Whether you choose to print the gantry parts and source the parts yourself or decide to purchase an already existing kit with everything you will need (PD3D - USA),
this video is for the community of K1 owners that could benefit greatly from its quality and performance.
Below you will find everything you need to get you going!
Github for the Bootycall Jones Linear Rail Gantry and Install:
github.com/tla...
The aforementioned link provides all STL files needed to print the parts yourself (ABS/ASA and above) along with various revisions to accommodate additional upgrades as well as tools to assist with the install process.
Bootycall Jones Linear Rail Gantry Guides (Bill of Materials, Disassembly/Assembly, Firmware):
docs.google.co...
NOTE: This Bootycall Jones linear rail upgrade will require all printers that receive it to be rooted in order to make the necessary firmware adjustments in Klipper!
Rooting Creality K1 (as performed by Fedor of 3DPrintSOS - In depth and informative):
• Rooting Creality K1 & ...
The quality and performance increase of the linear rail gantry paired with the ability to make alterations to your printer's firmware allows the user to fine tune their experience, specific to their machine's output.
Parts required for this upgrade:
Please refer to the Bill of Materials listed on the Bootycall Jones Linear Rail Gantry Document for all necessary hardware/components. Each listed with their correlating links for ease of sourcing.
docs.google.co...
Bootycall Jones Linear Rail Gantry Kit Configurator (as provided by PD3D - USA - still requires assembly):
peedee3d.com/c...
Printed parts alone (all hardware/components will need to be self-sourced and installed - including heated inserts):
peedee3d.com/c...
NOTE: Heated insert service is available through PD3D but will need to be selected in the Linear Rail Gantry Configurator (not available with Printed parts alone)
If you are interested in performing either the Dragon Ace Hotend install, Cartographer install or both, please refer to the links found below:
Creality K1 - Triangle Labs Dragon Ace Mod (Assembly - Install performed in this video):
• Creality K1 - Triangle...
Creality K1 - Cartographer Mod:
• Creality K1 - Cartogra...
Creality K1 Cartographer Install Guide (as performed by Shima YT for software overview - Voiceover by Sockets):
• Creality K1 Cartograph...
Make sure to like, comment and subscribe if you enjoyed this video to stay tuned for all future upgrades/updates/installs and projects!
/ @covenantcustom
Disclaimer: This video was produced for educational purposes, and I chose to do so out of my interest in 3D printing as well as being able to share that passion with others. No sponsorship was provided for the making of this video, it was only developed for the benefit of the 3D printing community (Creality K1/K1C/K1SE/K1 Max owners). Furthermore, as a creative, producing/editing videos is new to me but your constructive criticism, support and willingness to join me in the journey while I work to develop my skills is greatly appreciated! None of the links above provide me with any commission, they are purely to make your lives easier when sourcing parts for this project.
Great job on the install video! Big thanks from us here at PD3D!
Thanks for the feedback! If the kit/configurator had been available when I put together my first gantry (had most of the hardware already to complete this install), I'd have definitely saved some time with the self-sourcing process and had higher quality parts for an equivalent price in my other machine. Happy to have purchased the Youmetong rail as it is a great improvement over the CNA option that is in my other machine. Keep doing great things!
Excellent video! Wish I had this when I put together my gantry :) The community on Discord is excellent though so it worked out
Subbed! I just printed all but the tool carriage, undecided which way to go, have the rail and motors. Just need the hardware. Appreciate you making this!
@EsE1384 Sounds like you're in the home stretch for acquiring the rest of what's necessary! Feel free to reach me on Instagram if you have any questions.
Was about to do this, thank you for this! Never done it before!
Most definitely! Happy to provide a visual aid to accompany the install process. Since there wasn't one to follow when I built my first gantry, I was hoping to provide that opportunity to others. If you have any questions feel free to shoot me a DM. My other pages are listed in my channel. It might seem daunting, but my goal was to make the process easier whether you watch it beforehand or simultaneously while you're working on your own install. You've got it!
@@CovenantCustomthanks!!
@@CovenantCustomjust waiting on alcohol to clean/prep the rail. Tomorrow!
I wish the kit came with it ready to go lol
@ThisisDD At first I was thinking to myself, that step isnt that bad that you'd need any! That is an important step to address though, all jokes aside. Even more crucial is the grease application in the H block. Make sure to apply it until it starts escaping from the sides. Run the block back and forth to make sure the bearings are coated before you let the machine take over at 10k accel speeds. If you get it good the first time, whatever remains you can save for your next maintenance.
@@CovenantCustom yep I just don't want to do anything wrong. So I'm taking my time and waiting for the correct stuff. I want this thing to be good. The VFA on my max is so bad you can physically FEEL it on the surfaces. Creality told me that was a flaw in the design and said I was screwed. Fixing it and never touching Creality again.
Thanks for your replay.🥰
I'll always do my best to be present for those watching along and to contribute the knowledge I have acquired for the community's benefit. You are very welcome!
thanks man. I this will help so much when I do this mod. u earned yourself a new subscriber.
Helping make this process easier was the goal that I set out to accomplish! Happy to hear that it will be useful in your upcoming project! Thanks for the support 👍
Absolute legend for doing this. Been keeping up with the updates in the FB group!
Greatly appreciate it Dee! Thanks for sticking around through the process!
@@CovenantCustomcan I ask why you went with short shaft motor? I’d of thought long shaft with an additional bearing would be more stable especially with the high tension the belts are at.
@DSPrints_ These motors have been tested to accelerations that far exceed what I plan to run them at. With the belts both tuned to 120Hz, which I find to be the sweet spot, tension is not a concern either.
@@CovenantCustom excellent thank you
Hey thanks for this. I think you forgot to cover cartographer probe installation ?
@kandiy That will be a separate video altogether. Since I don't anticipate everyone that's completing this upgrade to install a Carto, I wanted to provide another video for that specifically. Stay tuned. It is in the works!
Goodnight! The X axis assembly that goes to the bearings is different in the github link, where did you get that?
@brunofeitosa6635 Hey Bruno! The joints you see me using are from an older version where the LM8LUU bearings are enclosed. The ones listed on the git are the most recent but I opted to go with these instead out of personal preference. They both perform the same operation!
Thanks for the awesome guide mate! I had ordered the parts around 2 weeks ago and just need to wait for my linear rail to arrive. Do you have any information on what belt tension should be set? Is 110Hz fine?
@keremkesici4244 Happy to know that you found it useful! For belt tension I like to run on the higher end at 120Hz but 110-120 is ideal. Just make sure that both belts are on the same frequency (or at least as close as you can get them).
Nice work!
Appreciate it! Definitely was a process to complete the video but worth it if it helps others!
what values should i put in the printer.cfg if im using the original steppers with the 20T pulleys replacement?
I've only upgraded the motors in my machines, but with stock motors, it only makes sense to change the rotation value to 40 to account for the 20T pulleys. Build space will need to be adjusted based on your setup, whether you're running with or without a probe (Cartographer).
Hi all and thanks for the detailed and video for the installation of this Mod. Unfortunately I cannot find the right stl. file for the Dargon Ace Carriage Specific, shown at 1:59 minutes in the vid. All stl's on the Github webpage I found are whithout the three holes on the back side. May you have a hint for me where I can find the right one? Thanks in adcance . 🙂
It appears that because the brace was a concept of design, that the official release does not include the option to install it. I would expect minimal improvements in this install if any as it is already securely placed over the H-block. Sitting firmly in its mounting position and attached through the 4 holes with the hardware that is threaded through the carriage where the extruder assembly will sit. Just make sure the hardware is snugged up and I'm sure you will achieve similar results to mine. It is likely that no major improvements were found which prevented the file from ever being listed. Although I am sure you've already located it, the link for the Dragon Ace carriage that is available can be found below for your convenience:
github.com/tlace17/K1-Linear-Rail-Gantry/blob/main/user-mods/BootyCall%20Jones/Dragon%20ACE%20Mod/Probe%20Carriage%20for%20Dragon.stl
Hey thank you for the vid! Is there a reason you chose 200 degree for heat insert? What meterial is your prints? I'm going to print them in asa and was wondering what temp I should use the heat insert at.
Hey Gamey! Happy to help out the community! I chose 200C because I prefer low and slow. By introducing heat at this temperature, I can make ensure that while sinking them they are providing tight tolerances. The material I used was ABS so you'll do well with the ASA! If you approach it too hot, you could risk making a mistake and ruining the entire printed part. I'd like for everyone to avoid doing that so I suggested the minimum of what the guide states for temperature range on the soldering iron.
@@CovenantCustom Thank you!
Will you do a follow up on how it prints now? i cant find any videos at all on how the k1max performs with the linear rails. please, please.
@Electrojudaz Can definitely do that for you! Going to break the linear rail in a bit and will return with a review on its performance in the not so distant future. Working on a few projects otherwise, so stay tuned!
@@CovenantCustom lovley! You would be the first to have such a vid on👌
@Electrojudaz I am always open to requests and will meet each to the best of my ability. Give me about a month or so (between other projects that I'm working on/having to travel for work) and I will circle back on this for you!
@@CovenantCustom 🥰
Bad ass 🎉
This is only the beginning 😎 Thanks!
Noice!
Can we do this with the stock indler and bearings and put an 8mm belt?
@sifiskyriakakis3524 I have heard of others using the stock idler on the position closest to the printhead in the XY joints but believe this kit was specifically designed to receive the 6mm belt. I've ordered and will be installing GT3 belts in the near future as it has been the preferred option that other community members swear by.
@@CovenantCustom ok thank you also i have k1 max can do thIs setup?
@@sifiskyriakakis3524 That is correct! The K1 Max has some minor differences. I was able to find out that it is possible to run 2504AC's in the short shaft, bearingless motor mounts. It requires the 400mm linear rail and I am trying to get the appropriate firmware changes to be posted for those interested. Since I did not design this gantry or have a K1 Max for that matter, I can not speak on the changes that would need to be made. I have had settings provided by another K1M user but I am waiting for approval from the designer prior to posting them here 👍
and this mod will oerpass the k1 max with their actual firmware update from the printer and nozzle??
im almost getting every week a new nozzle update...
I'm not familiar with the K1 Max and the current updates they're releasing but I found that once I rooted my printer and started running guppyscreen, the only updates that I've had to make have been through an instance of Klipper directly.
@@CovenantCustom You should try now creality print, its incredible smooth and curgical.
I saw another vid that stepper motors are very different between k1 and k1 max
@@espadasmoran Ever since making the switch to Orcaslicer, there has been no looking back! Although I do not have a Max, the motors that are suggested for that configuration would be the LDO 2504MAC.
well at this point getting a voron would been better
When I first got into the K1 platform, I had no intentions to go this far with them! For reference, this current build cost about 2/3 the price of a V.0 kit. The benefit of breathing new life into secondhand machines!