TIP, my e tec mechanic said use a 1&1/2 socket that fits the outside and you are less likely to break the cap. Great vid, just did it myself. It is a little tight getting in there but not bad. I also used the 13/16 to get the caps started then finished with the 1&1/2 and torque wrench.
I serviced my engine with the information you gave me. The single starter worked without any problems. I learned that my spark plugs were installed incorrectly.🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉thanks ❤❤❤
I do not...and hope I don't have to make one...lol From what I know about the Poppet Valve, it is in a tough spot to get to and a pain. The easiest way is to remove or lift the EEM up out of the way to get better access. Also be careful with the nuts and such, they are easy to drop or lose.
I had my-lower unit serviced, the usual, impeller,oil, O rings, and stats, my 2008 250 etec its still running hot. Runs up to almost 200 F The engine at 7MPH after the service is still running too hot. I speed up and the temp immediately goes down. I might have to install a cooler stat to keep the engine running cooler. I’m located in Stuart Florida. The engine just turned 400 hours something isn’t right. Do you have any suggestions. Thanks Frank😊
You can test them in a pot of water with a thermometer to verify they open and close...just heat the water and watch them open at correct temp. I normally don't test them as long as I am having no issues. Plus every 3 year 300 hour service I just replace them.
@@1Cast1Fish Thanks, I'll do that. I'm doing maintenance on a friends ETEC ( first time in 7 years, he doesn't know a motor from a grapefruit ) . Your videos are GREAT!
Not so sure about the 120-140 torque numbers even though that's what the manual note. I tried tightening them to 120, worked on one of them okay but broke off the other one.
I was not having any issues with mine, just pulled them to check them as part of standard maintenance. If they were severely corroded or not working, I would have replaced them. Plus its good to remove and relube those housings...they can get stuck on there pretty good if left.
That really sucks, they can be a pain sometimes, especially in salt water, and older models they used a thread locker on them to make it even worse. I do not know the pitch or size sorry...but most that have them break will use a chisel and pick with a vacuum to chip the old one out. If you got it out and damaged the threads in the heads, then I am not sure on the correct tap size as I definitely don't have one big enough in my tap/die set to even check. Might be able to measure the opening size, and they make tools for checking thread count and pitch.
excellent video: my new engine 2012 175hp has Code 43 an 69 engine temp above expected range port temp 195F star temp 192F Code 25 EMM temp above expected range EMM temp 188F I plan to remove all the small rubber cooling tubes an clean. remove thremostate an soak in vinagar. I know the engine runs cooler above 2500RPM an hotter at idel.what are normal temps.for both? thanks
1st do you have the diagnostics software? T-Stat should be 143 degree Max Temps 230 below 3000rpm, 194 above 3000 rpm. EMM Maz should be 212 Typical Engine Temp should be around 160 +-20 at idle...WOT 120+-20 at WOT Code 29 is EMM temp >176 and limits engine to 1200 rpm So with those basics out of the way, the best way to see whats happening and when, is to use the software and watch the temps in real time during operation to see what is going on and when. I would start with the obvious first...is it a good flow of water out the back? Is it a idle issue or a WOT issue or all of the above? Good water pressure? (Waterpump) Are the intake screens messed up or plugged? How old are the T-Stats? If over 3 or they are very dirty...just replace them (trust me on this one) If issue is at higher rpm could be the backpressure relief valve. I would make sure these areas are good before tearing all the hoses off. Also is it saltwater use? How old? Look up how to do a cleaning flush on the motor to clean the passages as well. It could be many things or a combo of things honestly, just use a good methodical trouble shooting with the easiest things first.
@@1Cast1Fish yes I have the EV Diag. software. seller didn't know anything about engine. only used in fresh water. 170 hours. I've only scanned w/ engine off. was looking at historical errors.waiting on new fuel filter to run engine then scan while running.an observe the impellor discharge. I want to do the 300 hour service including all cooling parts impeller/t/states/ would you happen to know the part # for thremostats? an should I purchase the kit w/ spring an cover. thanks for advising.
@@1Cast1Fish Yes I have the EV Diag. software, engine only used in freshwater/ 170 hours. Seller didn’t know anything about engine. I’ve only scanned engine while she’s turned off, waiting on new fuel filters. Was planning to do the 300 hour maintaince which includes water pump impellor /thremostates (plus all the other stuff) then rescan.may start her up w/ new fuel filters if she discharges cooling water then scan while running. The overheat errors I think where historical. Would you happen to know the part # for thermostat an should I get the whole kit w/ cover an spring seal? Thanks for advising you are the man.
I had to replace the thermostat cap on my 2007 Evinrude 150 E-Tec I got the new caps the part numbers match but having a problem getting it to thread on any suggestions
Press hard, so I had a similar issue at first, you have to press hard enough to overcome the spring pressure to get the threads to engage. Hope this helps
My 2016 ET 250 horse My heat light comes on periodically, It does not run hot It’s just telling me that the motor is running warmer than usual. What would you suggest?
Is water pressure correct? Maybe a water pump issue Low RPM....look at T-Stats High RPM...look at Pressure Relief Valve I want to say its around 2500 rpm or so for the swap over for cooling duty.
I went to the Evinrude /BRP website and you can enter the model # of your motor and go to a manual for parts. Not sure if they are the same without knowing the exact engine specs.
Super informative. Clear and inclusive instructions. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Thanks
TIP, my e tec mechanic said use a 1&1/2 socket that fits the outside and you are less likely to break the cap. Great vid, just did it myself. It is a little tight getting in there but not bad. I also used the 13/16 to get the caps started then finished with the 1&1/2 and torque wrench.
Thanks for sharing
I will service my 2013 90 hp etec engine this month. I learned a lot thanks to you👍🎉👌
Glad these videos have been helpful, I thing the 90 is a tad different from the 150, and will need a few additional parts as part of the service kit
I serviced my engine with the information you gave me. The single starter worked without any problems. I learned that my spark plugs were installed incorrectly.🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉thanks ❤❤❤
Glad this helped
Simple and to the point great video brother
Thank you :)
This Dude obviously knows his stuff.
Thank You :)
Very informative, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks again Brother… great detailed vid… keep it up 🙌🏻🤙
Thanks, will do!
Thanks for sharing.
Tight Lines and Full Limits To Ya. 🎣
Thanks! You too!
Paul, have you done a video on replacing the poppet on a Etec? If not, can you provide any advice on replacing one. Thanks
I do not...and hope I don't have to make one...lol
From what I know about the Poppet Valve, it is in a tough spot to get to and a pain. The easiest way is to remove or lift the EEM up out of the way to get better access. Also be careful with the nuts and such, they are easy to drop or lose.
@@1Cast1Fish Thanks - That is what I have heard but cant find any supportive videos. Great videos, please keep sharing
If I ever have to tear into it, I will be sure to make a video
Great vid! Great info. What are the torque specs for tightening the housing?
120-144 Inch Pounds....I tend to stay on the lower side, and if any leak just tighten them a tad, but I have had zero issues at 125
Thanks!
I had my-lower unit serviced, the usual, impeller,oil, O rings, and stats, my 2008 250 etec its still running hot. Runs up to almost 200 F
The engine at 7MPH after the service is still running too hot. I speed up and the temp immediately goes down.
I might have to install a cooler stat to keep the engine running cooler. I’m located in Stuart Florida.
The engine just turned 400 hours something isn’t right. Do you have any suggestions.
Thanks Frank😊
So there is no "testing" of thermostat, it's mostly a inspecting for crud and cleaning ? Excellent video !
You can test them in a pot of water with a thermometer to verify they open and close...just heat the water and watch them open at correct temp. I normally don't test them as long as I am having no issues. Plus every 3 year 300 hour service I just replace them.
@@1Cast1Fish Thanks, I'll do that. I'm doing maintenance on a friends ETEC ( first time in 7 years, he doesn't know a motor from a grapefruit ) . Your videos are GREAT!
@@28704joe at 7 years, I would recommend just replace them. Be sure to replace the seal and gasket as well
What kind of grease and what torque numbers? Great article, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed, all info and tools are listed in the video description for easy reference.
Do you have a video on the pressure relief valve on the evinrude 150 etec.
Crossing my fingers ....I do not yet.
Not so sure about the 120-140 torque numbers even though that's what the manual note. I tried tightening them to 120, worked on one of them okay but broke off the other one.
Inch Pounds? 120 Inch Pounds is only about 10 ftlb ...So not much at all
P what's the torque on those when you reinstall them
Housing torque is 120 to 144 in lbs
What year model is your motor? I have a 2018 200 hp g1. Was curious if this process would be the same for mine.
Mine is a 2014 Gen1 I believe both are V6 so should be the same
I put a new thermostat on the evinrude etec 60 hp but I think it gets too hot because I touch the injectors and they are hot
The injectors will be hot...was there any over temp alarms or running issues?
@@1Cast1Fish not until now not
If it just started after installing a new T-Stat, pull it back out and test it in hot water with a thermometer to ensure it's opening correctly
Curious, why not just put new thermostat in while old one's out? Thanks
I was not having any issues with mine, just pulled them to check them as part of standard maintenance. If they were severely corroded or not working, I would have replaced them. Plus its good to remove and relube those housings...they can get stuck on there pretty good if left.
You say to use a torque wrench. Im working on a 2013 etech 115. What us the torque specification for the thermostat caps?
Spec is in the description
What torque pressure do you set your torque wrench at?
Check video description for torque values
Did this and snapped the cap. Any shot you know the thread pitch / size for this? I need to clean up the threads before installing new cap
That really sucks, they can be a pain sometimes, especially in salt water, and older models they used a thread locker on them to make it even worse. I do not know the pitch or size sorry...but most that have them break will use a chisel and pick with a vacuum to chip the old one out.
If you got it out and damaged the threads in the heads, then I am not sure on the correct tap size as I definitely don't have one big enough in my tap/die set to even check. Might be able to measure the opening size, and they make tools for checking thread count and pitch.
excellent video: my new engine 2012 175hp has Code 43 an 69 engine temp above expected range port temp 195F star temp 192F
Code 25 EMM temp above expected range EMM temp 188F
I plan to remove all the small rubber cooling tubes an clean. remove thremostate an soak in vinagar. I know the engine runs cooler above 2500RPM an hotter at idel.what are normal temps.for both? thanks
1st do you have the diagnostics software?
T-Stat should be 143 degree
Max Temps 230 below 3000rpm, 194 above 3000 rpm.
EMM Maz should be 212
Typical Engine Temp should be around 160 +-20 at idle...WOT 120+-20 at WOT
Code 29 is EMM temp >176 and limits engine to 1200 rpm
So with those basics out of the way, the best way to see whats happening and when, is to use the software and watch the temps in real time during operation to see what is going on and when.
I would start with the obvious first...is it a good flow of water out the back?
Is it a idle issue or a WOT issue or all of the above?
Good water pressure? (Waterpump)
Are the intake screens messed up or plugged?
How old are the T-Stats? If over 3 or they are very dirty...just replace them (trust me on this one)
If issue is at higher rpm could be the backpressure relief valve.
I would make sure these areas are good before tearing all the hoses off.
Also is it saltwater use? How old? Look up how to do a cleaning flush on the motor to clean the passages as well.
It could be many things or a combo of things honestly, just use a good methodical trouble shooting with the easiest things first.
@@1Cast1Fish yes I have the EV Diag. software. seller didn't know anything about engine. only used in fresh water. 170 hours. I've only scanned w/ engine off. was looking at historical errors.waiting on new fuel filter to run engine then scan while running.an observe the impellor discharge. I want to do the 300 hour service including all cooling parts impeller/t/states/ would you happen to know the part # for thremostats? an should I purchase the kit w/ spring an cover. thanks for advising.
@@1Cast1Fish Yes I have the EV Diag. software, engine only used in freshwater/ 170 hours. Seller didn’t know anything about engine.
I’ve only scanned engine while she’s turned off, waiting on new fuel filters.
Was planning to do the 300 hour maintaince which includes water pump impellor /thremostates (plus all the other stuff) then rescan.may start her up w/ new fuel filters if she discharges cooling water then scan while running.
The overheat errors I think where historical.
Would you happen to know the part # for thermostat an should I get the whole kit w/ cover an spring seal? Thanks for advising you are the man.
Not sur ethe P/N without referencing the motor S/N and model. I replace the T-Stat, Spring, Gasket, and O-Ring...I reuse the plastic housing.
I had to replace the thermostat cap on my 2007 Evinrude 150 E-Tec I got the new caps the part numbers match but having a problem getting it to thread on any suggestions
Press hard, so I had a similar issue at first, you have to press hard enough to overcome the spring pressure to get the threads to engage. Hope this helps
My 2016 ET 250 horse My heat light comes on periodically, It does not run hot It’s just telling me that the motor is running warmer than usual. What would you suggest?
Is water pressure correct? Maybe a water pump issue
Low RPM....look at T-Stats
High RPM...look at Pressure Relief Valve
I want to say its around 2500 rpm or so for the swap over for cooling duty.
My motor is a 115 etech would it be the same
I believe so
Why’s it necessary to have a thermostat n a outboard motor?
They keep the engine operating at the optimal temp, not overly cold or hot. Just like a car T-Stat
thx a lot , do you have the part number for the thermostat ? greeting from Belgium (Europe)
I went to the Evinrude /BRP website and you can enter the model # of your motor and go to a manual for parts. Not sure if they are the same without knowing the exact engine specs.
you forgot the most important step - heat the cleaned thermostat in a bowl of water and check to see if the thermostat functions properly.
Thats a great suggestion
what torking did you apply?
I'm an old fashioned shade tree type - most of my torquing is done by feel - remember the caps are plastic - less is best. @@IsaiasAlencar
Now why wouldn't they use metal instead of plastic
Not sure, but maybe something to do with corrosion...no sure honestly.
Hopefully you don’t need evinrude etec parts my boat has been waiting 6 weeks for the code to program the injector. The Website was hacked this summer
Yeah I know they had some issues, 6 weeks is crazy though. I hope this is not a sign of things to come
@@1Cast1Fish it’s been a disappointing boating summer
I feel you man....I wish I could have gotten out more...now hunting season is around the corner
Киньте термостат у воду з лимонной кислотою і буде чистий.
Хороша ідея, яка б добре спрацювала
is this a gen 1 or gen 2? does it matter or is it the same?
@@nicklausmisiti5204 this is a G1, not sure on the 2…don’t want to give you the wrong info.
@@1Cast1Fish ok i just bought a 2009 G1 115 so hopefully it's the same. what year is yours and how do you like it? any common problems with it?
You going to have to keep reinstalling them thermostat's because it getting hard to get parts for the etch
Unfortunately parts are getting harder to find