Thanks! Very helpful. Just did the same to replace the faulty right side motor in my '81 Turbo Trans Am. The template for drilling the holes provided in the Hayne's Manual for 2nd gen Firebirds is way off. Nowhere close. Your measurements helped me drill the three holes in the right places.
Great video. I use this video on a 1978 Camaro. The measurements were pretty well spot on. I drilled the top left whole using a holesaw. Then I figured I can make smaller holes just big enough to get my quarter inch extension in and I use a 13 mm drill bit instead of the hole saw. I was able to use my fingers to put the socket on the extension. Note that the motor will not run unless it is grounded out in this case it is grounded out using the bolts to the regulator so if you're going to test it make sure your ground out the body of the motor.
THECAMARO0111 not sure what you mean ground out? I'm just asking cause I just bought a motor for my car and I'm going to replace it but I truly don't know what that means ground out? Can you help please?
You can tell neither of you have ever attempted to replace a 40+ year old window motor. 3 holes in the door that should have been there in the first place.
@@RobertSchulz I pulled mine out of my 80 camaro without drilling holes. If it went in without the holes it can come out. Not saying it's the best way but it's possible. Been a few years since I pulled mine out so I watched this video to remember how it went together, lost the hardware so getting a general idea of what it looked like
Thanks for taking the time boy that sure saves a lot of cuts and scratches irritation and foul language. I just don't like putting holes in my door that whenever their butt I do believe it is out of necessity and convenience we'll overlook the holes in my door thank you
This gentleman is showing the correct way to perform this! Using hole saw to gain access to motor attaching bolts is absolutely necessary. Exactly as shown in the Fisher Body Ssrvice Manual right down to using the rubber door stop. The service manual also includes a template for easier location of drilling spots.
I can’t believe GM will design this window regulator to where you had to modify the door in the case of a warranty repair. I would have been upset if my new car had holes drilled in the door frame for a warranty repair. I replaced a motor in a van once that required drilling out those pop rivets to move the regulator enough to get the bolts out. If you did decide to drill it, I would think a smaller hole would work if you were using a quarter inch drive socket. I guess it’s just a person preference.
WHY???? You can put a wrench on the bolts by reaching thru the large holes in front of, and behind the motor mount. I did this to my 79 in 81 on the drivers side. It takes about the same amount of time you will waste marking and drilling holes. This isn't something you'll be doing every year.
Great video, aside from where is part 1 a few questions. I noticed on right side it looks like window regulator was adjusted down (bolt is moved from an earlier position). Was that done previously or you moved it to facilitate removal or previous service. Second, I had heard that the motor was riveted from the factory not bolted to regulator, was that incorrect?
Thanks! Very helpful. Just did the same to replace the faulty right side motor in my '81 Turbo Trans Am. The template for drilling the holes provided in the Hayne's Manual for 2nd gen Firebirds is way off. Nowhere close. Your measurements helped me drill the three holes in the right places.
A huge thank you for this video! We just completed both window motor replacements on our 79 trans am. Measurements were spot on! Awesome!
Great video. I use this video on a 1978 Camaro. The measurements were pretty well spot on. I drilled the top left whole using a holesaw. Then I figured I can make smaller holes just big enough to get my quarter inch extension in and I use a 13 mm drill bit instead of the hole saw. I was able to use my fingers to put the socket on the extension. Note that the motor will not run unless it is grounded out in this case it is grounded out using the bolts to the regulator so if you're going to test it make sure your ground out the body of the motor.
THECAMARO0111 not sure what you mean ground out? I'm just asking cause I just bought a motor for my car and I'm going to replace it but I truly don't know what that means ground out? Can you help please?
Don't usually comment on these videos. But this one helped me a lot! Thnx!
You should not put unnecessary holes to a classic car... Just drill out the rivets and move the regulator...
You can tell neither of you have ever attempted to replace a 40+ year old window motor. 3 holes in the door that should have been there in the first place.
Fellas, GM is notorious for this. My '02 TA is riveted and so were the 90's pickups.
Yea well how did you do it, there is no room to get a socket,, barely enough for a wrench. Worse location i have ever dealt with.
@@RobertSchulz I pulled mine out of my 80 camaro without drilling holes. If it went in without the holes it can come out. Not saying it's the best way but it's possible. Been a few years since I pulled mine out so I watched this video to remember how it went together, lost the hardware so getting a general idea of what it looked like
Thanks for taking the time boy that sure saves a lot of cuts and scratches irritation and foul language. I just don't like putting holes in my door that whenever their butt I do believe it is out of necessity and convenience we'll overlook the holes in my door thank you
Congrats to an excellent idea, just completed the swp myself on a 79..Under an hour job. Had to convert to mm though as I am in Greece. Good job!!
Great video!
Could you not just use a ratcheting wrench instead of drilling holes ???
This gentleman is showing the correct way to perform this! Using hole saw to gain access to motor attaching bolts is absolutely necessary. Exactly as shown in the Fisher Body Ssrvice Manual right down to using the rubber door stop. The service manual also includes a template for easier location of drilling spots.
But the template in the manual is way different dimensions.
@@transam757ify do you have the measurements? Are they a lot different can I use these ?
No, it's not absolutely necessary. I've done this using the existing holes.
I can’t believe GM will design this window regulator to where you had to modify the door in the case of a warranty repair. I would have been upset if my new car had holes drilled in the door frame for a warranty repair. I replaced a motor in a van once that required drilling out those pop rivets to move the regulator enough to get the bolts out. If you did decide to drill it, I would think a smaller hole would work if you were using a quarter inch drive socket. I guess it’s just a person preference.
Great video, thanks for sharing it.....I was wondering where Part 1 was too ?
WHY???? You can put a wrench on the bolts by reaching thru the large holes in front of, and behind the motor mount. I did this to my 79 in 81 on the drivers side. It takes about the same amount of time you will waste marking and drilling holes. This isn't something you'll be doing every year.
Because it make life easy, and is recommended by Fisher body manual.
@@robertmccully2792 The Fisher body manual does not have the same measurements this guy does.
thats what i was wondering. this is ridiculous. i could just use a ratchet wrench.
Been asked many times, where is Part 1?
where's Part 1?! 😞
Great video, aside from where is part 1 a few questions. I noticed on right side it looks like window regulator was adjusted down (bolt is moved from an earlier position). Was that done previously or you moved it to facilitate removal or previous service. Second, I had heard that the motor was riveted from the factory not bolted to regulator, was that incorrect?
Great video!!
Worked out perfectly for my 79 Camaro.
Where is part one?