Ordered one of Mp5works blocks for my 3090 after watching this. Serial config, G1/4” fittings and they say it has “50 % more contact area” than the earlier blocks. Thanks for the great content - I’m learning a lot from this channel!
I used something similar to that using TECs to make a liquid chiller, I had 4 50w TECs, they may have been 75w or 100w at some point too, and the TECs were liquid cooled on the hot side by a custom loop, a CLC before there were CLC’s, it was a custom loop but had no reservoir. I insulated the tubing and around the block and socket. I also used it on GPUs, but the GPUs I had at the time already ran like 32C with a water block on them, so it was pointless. Although, it never really made much of an impact because I was limited by silicon quality. I did end up direct contact cooling with a 400w TEC on my CPU and I also tried using a chunk of copper, I made Intels Cryo cooler years ago, it’s nothing new lol. Their software, THAT is what’s valuable.
Yo dude, you could maybe remove the 1 mm pad behind the die and replace it with a 0,5 mm one. Maybe then one pad behind the block is enough to make proper contact. Good luck with the videos!
Didn’t even realize you only had 5k subs when I watched your review on the strix 3090 keep up the great work man you make great videos with the info people want to see. Great tests and video quality you are massively underrated you just earned an instant sub once I seen the sun count
The problem with air down is if you have any air coming up it will just create turbulence and not cool it properly. Like if you have fans on the bottom of your case blowing up and they push a lot of air.
Does this installation make sense? Components -> thermal pads -> backplate -> thermal pad -> metal (watercooler) -> cooling medium sounds pretty inefficient to me.
If you narrow the flow speed will increase and pressure will reduce if you go back to the same size speed will again slow down and pressure goes up. Bernoullies principle with a little lose you will have exactly the same output as input. Except its that small that it can not speed up fast enough to have the same flow.
The surface contract and transfer will be poor if we have backplate on a backplate. I think we should see measurable difference if we have a full sized back water block that covers the hot spots and can collect the heat efficiently.
Oh I don’t disagree, but then your looking at entire rear backplate blocks made specifically for each card, instead of a one size fits all solution. I figure since no one has done it that way yet it’s just not economical enough to do so
@@FrameChasers wouldn't a reference design cards have similar reference layout on the back as well? (same as the top blocks are made for reference or FE or Custom) Although, even if you had just a one uniform long block (with circulation across whole length) then you can cover the components, in their layout, using thermal pads (similar to what you did when mounting backplate)
Great video. 2 questions, which case do you use and damn where is you PSU located? Mine us under the GPU like most cases but love the idea that is in other place. Oh and can I use the cooler if I dont have a watercool system? Need own pump for it like AIO I fear watercooling lol so I have a CPU cooler in spare maybe that is a good starting point?
What would be cool is cover the entire back of the PCB with a big thermal pad between the backplate, then liquid cool it, that could be cool. I seem to remember hearing thats what Optimus does with their high end backplates
Heehee - "Rubber Bands" = cable ties (zip ties in the US). Looks great, considering an MP5works backplate waterblock for my 3090. Thanks for the video, subscribed! What radiator is the water loop dumping heat into? Just the 360mm rad in the bottom of the case?
Cable/zip ties are made of plastic. Rubber bands that are used in video are literally RUBBER bands, made of rubber, definitely not cable ties. In this case rubber is needed because of its elasticity which pulls water block to the back plate. If you bought this block use thermal paste. It will significantly improve heat transfer because of its application thickness. Only if you need to cover gap bigger than 0.5mm will thermal pad be beneficial.
flow would probably be worse if you used your radiator, as radiators are usually pretty low restriction. running it in parallel with your highest restriction block will result in the most flow to the MP5works block. Also this would probably be really good for anything with a solid backplate as opposed to the EVGA one.
As I understand and have read, stacking thermal pads does not work well. In your case, given the GPU is cooled on the other side you likely do not need as much cooling there anyway.
Yeah that will be the next video when I try on a 3090 ftw3, it’s massive. But the mp5works cooler was meant to work with a solid flat backplate to draw more heat into it instead of these open holed evga ones. But I’ll make anything work with some elbow grease
This looks like a quality product, so I'm not going to dis it for what it is - but I think some perspective is in order. On ebay you can get these sorts of flat coolers (alu) from China for almost nothing, in various sizes. It's obviously not going to be the same quality, but the construction in this case is so simple (no orings or seals ect.) that it should be a non issue for leaks ect.. Also, the thermal bottleneck here isn't going to be the materials or chambering of the block, but rather the contact of the backplate to hot components. So that should also be a very minimal issue. I can't imagine that an elaborate block will do much better than a really basic one. You don't actually need strong cooling from the backplate since it doesn't actually conduct much heat. You just need to mitigate that this flat piece of thin metal has basically no surface area or way to dissapate the heat... that's why it gets hot - it just keeps building up because the heat has nowhere to transfer to. You could probably get pretty good results just by going full ghetto and thermal gluing on a bunch of cheap heatsinks to the backplate to drastically increase it's surface area - but that would obviously look horrendously ugly, and also take up at least another slot worth of space. I don't know the dimensions of this product, but I'd guess somewhere in the neighbourhood of 40x120? If so then you can get 14 of these basic including shipping for the same price so... TLDR: You can probably accomplish something very similar for a trivial cost if you are on a budget. It's honestly so cheap that it's hard to argue it's not worth trying. Maybe this channel can do a contrast and compare test? :D
Personally I wouldn’t trust those fittings. I’d trust that style for air, but not water inside my PC. I’ve sprung a leak before using unusual fittings. Now I only use the good stuff, compression fittings or barbs with hose clamps usually. Although I do like the idea of liquid cooling the backplate. Although in my case, everything is inverted, so that block would be hanging upside down. I’d like to see a bigger one, that accepted normal sized fittings. I do really like that cooler though, I may get one. Was it loud?
fittings have been good so far, but I would maybe contact MP5 works and find out what threads they are using the block itself, you could probably get a thread to G1/4 converter anyway and use standard compression fittings. The cooler itself doesn't make any noise. Its just a waterblock
Mine is already 53 C at the backplate with no fan nor watercooling but a tiny heatsink and lots of thermal pads between the backplate and gpu. So I guess watercooling the backplatewon't reduce it more than 50 C even with watercooling. Which means mem junction temperature will always stay at 90C :D or maybe high 80C while doing what you are doing 7/24 :D
could you let us know what VRam temps you were getting when you monitor it using HWinfo when you made this switch? or were the thermal couple directly on the Vram?
Well a lot is anyway not cooled on waterblocks. just the oarts with conntact, chip with the paste or lm and all the stuff with the pads the rest is not cooled.
What max temperatures do you consider comfortable for a 24/7 overclock? Been overclocking the 3090 strix with no mods/changes and I have temps hovering around 75-76 under full load. This is with +100 core and +900 mem and +15% power. For context I'm not using full +23% power, because it hits around 80 inside my case. Am I correct in trying to reduce the temps here?
Yeah the words “safe” and “comftorable” definitely have different meanings. Your temperatures are safe by manufacturer spec. But for me I don’t run any of my components above 70, ram gpu cpu mobo etc, nothing above 70. This just the sweet spot I’ve found where above 70c you start getting into thermal issues where it starts diminishing your overclocks and power consumption. A card running 80C will consume a shit ton more power than the same card running 70c at the same clocks
@@FrameChasers Good to know. Yeah I had the same interpretation. I've always been told anything under 80 (or more!) is totally within spec, but I have noticed things can get really hot and over time I worry about degrading the silicon. I'll look to work my CPU and GPU down to under 70. May need to follow your undervolt tutorial as well, right now just doing the fixed offset with stock voltage in gpu tweak 2. thanks for the reply
hey man, have you tried comparing a 3080 + OC + water vs 3090 stock air (like FE for example). Curious to see what the difference is on 1080p 240hz+ / 1440p 240hz, like how close that 3080 would be.
not a bad idea, except I think the problem would be you would lose a hell of a lot of surface area on the rest of the pcb as the waterblock is relatively small comapared to the entire PCB
@@FrameChasers I think just for testing purposes without adding anymore thermal tape to see what the temperature differences would be, being since most cards don't come with a backplate.
Thx for sharing, been running my Strix 3090 at 8K for PornHub and my mem temps are hitting 104C. I'm probably going to buy a few copper m.2 ssd heat sinks w/ a fan and see if that helps.
This is useful SPECIFICALLY for RTX 3090-series GPUs as they have VRAM modules on the back side of the PCB
Ordered one of Mp5works blocks for my 3090 after watching this. Serial config, G1/4” fittings and they say it has “50 % more contact area” than the earlier blocks. Thanks for the great content - I’m learning a lot from this channel!
Did you get it? How was the temperature improvement?
nice work amigo, so far loving your content from a real user perspective.
I used something similar to that using TECs to make a liquid chiller, I had 4 50w TECs, they may have been 75w or 100w at some point too, and the TECs were liquid cooled on the hot side by a custom loop, a CLC before there were CLC’s, it was a custom loop but had no reservoir. I insulated the tubing and around the block and socket. I also used it on GPUs, but the GPUs I had at the time already ran like 32C with a water block on them, so it was pointless. Although, it never really made much of an impact because I was limited by silicon quality. I did end up direct contact cooling with a 400w TEC on my CPU and I also tried using a chunk of copper, I made Intels Cryo cooler years ago, it’s nothing new lol. Their software, THAT is what’s valuable.
Yo dude, you could maybe remove the 1 mm pad behind the die and replace it with a 0,5 mm one. Maybe then one pad behind the block is enough to make proper contact. Good luck with the videos!
Didn’t even realize you only had 5k subs when I watched your review on the strix 3090 keep up the great work man you make great videos with the info people want to see. Great tests and video quality you are massively underrated you just earned an instant sub once I seen the sun count
The problem with air down is if you have any air coming up it will just create turbulence and not cool it properly. Like if you have fans on the bottom of your case blowing up and they push a lot of air.
you should use the back plate that came with the block because it's flat
stay tuned for future videos
@@FrameChasers Cool
Does this installation make sense? Components -> thermal pads -> backplate -> thermal pad -> metal (watercooler) -> cooling medium sounds pretty inefficient to me.
while not perfect, the rear chips can go to 100+ C (100-108C), so its so insanely hot that everything will help :p
If you narrow the flow speed will increase and pressure will reduce if you go back to the same size speed will again slow down and pressure goes up. Bernoullies principle with a little lose you will have exactly the same output as input. Except its that small that it can not speed up fast enough to have the same flow.
For the Algo. Pretty cool channel.
The surface contract and transfer will be poor if we have backplate on a backplate. I think we should see measurable difference if we have a full sized back water block that covers the hot spots and can collect the heat efficiently.
Oh I don’t disagree, but then your looking at entire rear backplate blocks made specifically for each card, instead of a one size fits all solution. I figure since no one has done it that way yet it’s just not economical enough to do so
@@FrameChasers wouldn't a reference design cards have similar reference layout on the back as well? (same as the top blocks are made for reference or FE or Custom)
Although, even if you had just a one uniform long block (with circulation across whole length) then you can cover the components, in their layout, using thermal pads (similar to what you did when mounting backplate)
Wont be long now before EK and companty start making parallel block backplates
Great video. 2 questions, which case do you use and damn where is you PSU located? Mine us under the GPU like most cases but love the idea that is in other place. Oh and can I use the cooler if I dont have a watercool system? Need own pump for it like AIO I fear watercooling lol so I have a CPU cooler in spare maybe that is a good starting point?
What would be cool is cover the entire back of the PCB with a big thermal pad between the backplate, then liquid cool it, that could be cool. I seem to remember hearing thats what Optimus does with their high end backplates
Heehee - "Rubber Bands" = cable ties (zip ties in the US). Looks great, considering an MP5works backplate waterblock for my 3090. Thanks for the video, subscribed!
What radiator is the water loop dumping heat into? Just the 360mm rad in the bottom of the case?
Cable/zip ties are made of plastic. Rubber bands that are used in video are literally RUBBER bands, made of rubber, definitely not cable ties. In this case rubber is needed because of its elasticity which pulls water block to the back plate. If you bought this block use thermal paste. It will significantly improve heat transfer because of its application thickness. Only if you need to cover gap bigger than 0.5mm will thermal pad be beneficial.
flow would probably be worse if you used your radiator, as radiators are usually pretty low restriction. running it in parallel with your highest restriction block will result in the most flow to the MP5works block. Also this would probably be really good for anything with a solid backplate as opposed to the EVGA one.
As I understand and have read, stacking thermal pads does not work well. In your case, given the GPU is cooled on the other side you likely do not need as much cooling there anyway.
Have you considered a GoPro for extra camera angles ? First person modding
The product is cool but, i would like a bigger version, if you go for backplate watercooling you have a high end (means big ) card.
Yeah that will be the next video when I try on a 3090 ftw3, it’s massive. But the mp5works cooler was meant to work with a solid flat backplate to draw more heat into it instead of these open holed evga ones. But I’ll make anything work with some elbow grease
@@FrameChasers :D
great work :) and I thought installing of Arctic cooling, Accelero Extremme III on 2080super A1 good binned gpu die, was kind of adventure :D
This looks like a quality product, so I'm not going to dis it for what it is - but I think some perspective is in order.
On ebay you can get these sorts of flat coolers (alu) from China for almost nothing, in various sizes.
It's obviously not going to be the same quality, but the construction in this case is so simple (no orings or seals ect.) that it should be a non issue for leaks ect.. Also, the thermal bottleneck here isn't going to be the materials or chambering of the block, but rather the contact of the backplate to hot components. So that should also be a very minimal issue. I can't imagine that an elaborate block will do much better than a really basic one. You don't actually need strong cooling from the backplate since it doesn't actually conduct much heat. You just need to mitigate that this flat piece of thin metal has basically no surface area or way to dissapate the heat... that's why it gets hot - it just keeps building up because the heat has nowhere to transfer to.
You could probably get pretty good results just by going full ghetto and thermal gluing on a bunch of cheap heatsinks to the backplate to drastically increase it's surface area - but that would obviously look horrendously ugly, and also take up at least another slot worth of space.
I don't know the dimensions of this product, but I'd guess somewhere in the neighbourhood of 40x120?
If so then you can get 14 of these basic including shipping for the same price so... TLDR: You can probably accomplish something very similar for a trivial cost if you are on a budget.
It's honestly so cheap that it's hard to argue it's not worth trying. Maybe this channel can do a contrast and compare test? :D
Personally I wouldn’t trust those fittings. I’d trust that style for air, but not water inside my PC. I’ve sprung a leak before using unusual fittings. Now I only use the good stuff, compression fittings or barbs with hose clamps usually.
Although I do like the idea of liquid cooling the backplate. Although in my case, everything is inverted, so that block would be hanging upside down. I’d like to see a bigger one, that accepted normal sized fittings.
I do really like that cooler though, I may get one. Was it loud?
fittings have been good so far, but I would maybe contact MP5 works and find out what threads they are using the block itself, you could probably get a thread to G1/4 converter anyway and use standard compression fittings. The cooler itself doesn't make any noise. Its just a waterblock
They do have a version which uses G1/4 fittings but that has to be plumbed in serial - I got mine today so will be putting it in on the weekend.
Great stuff as always.
Mine is already 53 C at the backplate with no fan nor watercooling but a tiny heatsink and lots of thermal pads between the backplate and gpu. So I guess watercooling the backplatewon't reduce it more than 50 C even with watercooling. Which means mem junction temperature will always stay at 90C :D or maybe high 80C while doing what you are doing 7/24 :D
Bro, get some compression fittings :P
could you let us know what VRam temps you were getting when you monitor it using HWinfo when you made this switch? or were the thermal couple directly on the Vram?
I know this question is in the wrong video but what wattage are your 8mohm resistors? 1, 2 or 3W? Cheers!
Well a lot is anyway not cooled on waterblocks. just the oarts with conntact, chip with the paste or lm and all the stuff with the pads the rest is not cooled.
Did alphacool not give you a backplate with your block because i got one with mine.
next video will be alphacool backplate, but it looks ugly as hell because it wasn't meant for an XC3
is this so hard to show a table with some values ? ...
can´t llok 30min just to know how much temp it will drop
why a 3080 it has no mem on backside??
Well looks like I might need to mod my Sliger sm580 case for my Ftw3 3090u. Do you think a 120mm rad can keep the back block cool?
You can use really tin zip ties instead of rubber bands ?
I got a ek ram block im gonna see if it works too
What max temperatures do you consider comfortable for a 24/7 overclock? Been overclocking the 3090 strix with no mods/changes and I have temps hovering around 75-76 under full load. This is with +100 core and +900 mem and +15% power. For context I'm not using full +23% power, because it hits around 80 inside my case. Am I correct in trying to reduce the temps here?
Yeah the words “safe” and “comftorable” definitely have different meanings. Your temperatures are safe by manufacturer spec. But for me I don’t run any of my components above 70, ram gpu cpu mobo etc, nothing above 70. This just the sweet spot I’ve found where above 70c you start getting into thermal issues where it starts diminishing your overclocks and power consumption. A card running 80C will consume a shit ton more power than the same card running 70c at the same clocks
@@FrameChasers Good to know. Yeah I had the same interpretation. I've always been told anything under 80 (or more!) is totally within spec, but I have noticed things can get really hot and over time I worry about degrading the silicon. I'll look to work my CPU and GPU down to under 70. May need to follow your undervolt tutorial as well, right now just doing the fixed offset with stock voltage in gpu tweak 2.
thanks for the reply
@@Slurmzy I went with a rtx 3090 Strix EKWB block. Boosting 2.2 GHz no problem under 50 degree.
Running a Mora 420 Radiator keeping the water cold tho
hey man, have you tried comparing a 3080 + OC + water vs 3090 stock air (like FE for example). Curious to see what the difference is on 1080p 240hz+ / 1440p 240hz, like how close that 3080 would be.
ua-cam.com/video/FyTBaNfrRVA/v-deo.html
Look through my channel there is a lot of content for you on this topic
@Frame Chasers Do you feel this would be helpful on a 3090 strixx with the ek block and backplate.
Depends what you mean by helpful, personally I just don’t like running my memory chips at 75c+. But it won’t help you overclock either
Do you have a link to the fan cooler?
Just added the links to my description
Why not just remove the back plate?
not a bad idea, except I think the problem would be you would lose a hell of a lot of surface area on the rest of the pcb as the waterblock is relatively small comapared to the entire PCB
@@FrameChasers I think just for testing purposes without adding anymore thermal tape to see what the temperature differences would be, being since most cards don't come with a backplate.
How can i ban your channel from my results by searching for something?
I'll go with an ek monarch
got a link to that 15 dolla amazon fan?
Just added the links to my description
Thx for sharing, been running my Strix 3090 at 8K for PornHub and my mem temps are hitting 104C. I'm probably going to buy a few copper m.2 ssd heat sinks w/ a fan and see if that helps.
"I gonna assume air down is better"....my brain directly went into error......GPU fan blows up and you want to blow down.....😄
RTFM, nææ it will be fine ,)
Love how this guy talks about chokes but doesn’t know how to say “adding this backplate will choke the flow” 😆
I know what that’s like. Gg